hyères 2006 - Villa Noailles

HYÈRES 2006
21 E FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL
DE MODE & DE PHOTOGRAPHIE À HYÈRES
APRIL 28 TH - MAY 1 ST
FASHION / PHOTOGRAPHY / EXHIBITIONS / PANEL DISCUSSIONS
VILLA NOAILLES / WWW.VILLANOAILLES-HYERES.COM
COMMUNAUTÉ D'AGGLOMÉRATION TOULON PROVENCE MÉDITERRANÉE
PRÉSENTATION / 2
HYÈRES 2006
21 E FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL
DE MODE & DE PHOTOGRAPHIE À HYÈRES
PRESS RELEASE
Festival Information : T / +33 (0)4 98 08 01 98
[email protected]
Press
Festival’s press office & accreditations > Pressing : T / +33 (0)1 42 01 51 00
[email protected]
villa Noailles press office > Philippe Boulet : T / +33 (0)6 82 28 00 47
[email protected]
International textile & fashion encounters > Jimmy Pihet : T / +33 (0)1 42 66 64 44
[email protected]
www.villanoailles-hyeres.com
ORGANISED IN CO-ORDINATION WITH THE YEAR OF LA FRANCOPHONIE
FASHION / PHOTOGRAPHY / EXHIBITIONS / PANEL DISCUSSIONS
VILLA NOAILLES / COMMUNAUTÉ D'AGGLOMÉRATION TOULON PROVENCE MÉDITERRANÉE
The festival is organized by FIAMH -Villa Noailles and financed since its inception in 1986 by the City of Hyères and
since 2004 by the Communauté d’agglomération Toulon Provence Méditerranée, with the aid of the Direction
Régionale des Affaires Culturelles, the Conseil régional Provence Alpes Côte d'Azur and the Conseil général du Var.
villa Noailles © Michel Mallard
HYÈRES, FASHION GETS A BREATH OF FRESH AIR
Each year, the question must be asked: should you go to Hyères or not? The answer,
though, requires thought. Dare you take the risk of missing such an unmissable event?
Will you take the risk that your absence will not be noticed, or of missing this rendezvous with the ante-chamber of summer and the symbol of an artistic movement in
regenerescence? Celebrating a twentieth anniversary is difficult when the Festival
itself symbolises the idea of renaissance. From its very beginning, it has gently
metamorphosed itself from a friendly reunion, to an international forum for fashion,
but, that which gives it its charm has not dissipated following the increase of its
popularity. The first impressions for a festival goer are much the same now as they were in
Jean-Pierre Blanc’s day, when he endeavoured to attract from the nearby coast, a stressed
Parisian audience, managing, nonetheless, to convince some real trend-setters.
Arriving in Hyères, one is captivated by a faint impression that the fine days have
returned, though this return is still a little undecided as the skies still harbour the odd
threatening cloud, yet an odour persists in the movement of the air as it slowly gathers
4 / INTRODUCTION
warmth… After this first breath of fresh air, one is ready to dive into the pool from which
fashion will be reborn. One may bare witness, therefore, to the birth of true fashion
phenomena which will turn upside down the landscape of fashion: as early as 1989 there
was the Belgian school including Sami Tillouche, Billie Mertens and Xavier Delcour. Or, in
1993, the formidable potential for innovation of the Dutch school which exploded onto
the scene at Hyères, notably including the duo of Viktor & Rolf. The English school was
also present from the outset, featuring John Galliano as one of the members of the jury.
The return to favour of a “French Touch” also took place at Hyères, highlighting Gaspard
Yurkievich, Alexandre Matthieu, then Richard René, following only a few years after the
coveted début of the likes of Marc Le Bihan.
And, if the future of fashion constitutes the festival’s “mission”, then its atmosphere has
evolved. In the early days – now cloaked with an air of mystery and legend – everything
was more flexible! The guests appreciated that the programme was simply a suggestion
which left plenty of room for personal improvisation. Carting around diverse groups of
people in a coach, as the only means of transport between the dislocated sites of the
festival, represented a diplomatic tour de force. Repeating this whole operation for each
stage of the programme was nothing less than a miracle: nobody wanted to leave the
terrace of the hôtel Provençal, everyone lingered over the delicious breakfast served on
the solarium balcony. Impossible to extract the troops installed in a seafood restaurant
and take them via the roundabout routes to the hall and its catwalk, or to the ineffable
Espace 3000. And in the evening, following a somewhat overpowering cocktail, it was
more than a little difficult to regroup the frenzied throng, scattered between beach
parties and hotel rooms converted into impromptu night-clubs! Yet the next day,
nobody would be missing from the morning session and its portfolio studies, from the
shows, the judges’ deliberations at the rochers de Giens and the ceremony of
investiture for the young prize winners.
Today, the festival goer has a more disciplined curiosity, respects the timetable, the
organisation and the energy invested in the whole event. The different festival locations
have all been re-centred around the Villa de Noailles, simplifying arrangements and
advocating relations. The festival has become the unique platform for meetings and
debates focused on fashion, whether it be public – during the round table discussions –
or improvised, between neighbours on coaches or in hotels… However a collective spirit
not unlike that of migrating colonies of birds remains, who, with their golden plumage,
come to find the spirit of fashion itself in front of the infinite possibilities of the “grande
bleue”: something which is indefinable, delicate and fleeting, imperceptible or
improbable, a kind of wager on the future, a means of inventing tomorrow according to
ones desires...
Florence Müller
5 / INTRODUCTION
THE FESTIVAL
Through parallel fashion and photography competitions, the Festival International de Mode
et de Photographie à Hyères, directed by Jean-Pierre Blanc since its creation 20 years ago,
gathers every year under the spotlight ten young fashion designers and ten young photographers under the patronage of an international jury.
An observatory of trends as well as an international launching pad, the Hyères festival has
showcased, more than 300 first-time collections by new fashion designers from all over the
world and exhibited the works of over 80 young and innovative photographers. On every
edition, the festival presents at the Villa Noailles —the landmark cubist villa built in the
1920’s by Mallet-Stevens — several exhibitions that explore the permeating boundaries
between art, photography and fashion.
The Festival’s public increases year after year, attracting designers, industrialists, trendwatchers, agents, buyers, textile federations, distributors, gallerists, museum directors,
department stores.
The festival's aim is to offer young talents a genuine professional opportunity by providing
them with material and logistical support, as well as profitable contacts and intensive media
exposure.
The general public is invited to vote after the fashion shows for an audience award.
All exhibitions are admission-free and remain open until early June.
A bilingual catalogue (French-English) is published at the time of the festival and is available
for 20 euros. A complete list of locations where the catalog is sold can be obtained by email:
[email protected]
ORGANIZATION
Didier Grumbach / President
Jean-Pierre Blanc / Festival’s director
Michel Mallard / Art director & curator (photography)
Maïda Gregori-Boina / Show director (fashion)
Laurence Sudre-Monnier / International textile & fashion encounters
Pressing / Festival’s press office & accreditations
Philippe Boulet / villa Noailles press office
6 / INTRODUCTION
Bruxelles-Hyères exhibition by Billie Mertens, 2003 © Michel Mallard
CONTENTS
The fashion competition / p. 8
The photography competition / p. 12
The exhibitions / p. 18
The program / p. 20
The events / p. 25
International textile & fashion encounters / p. 27
Information & contacts / p. 28
7 / INTRODUCTION
Défilé, édition 2005 © Cyrille Weiner
THE FASHION COMPETITION
On the three days of the festival, young fashion designers present to the public their first
collection in a series of fashion shows directed by Maïda Gregori-Boina. Their proposals
are examined and assesed by an attentive jury of industry professionals.
Numerous talents revealed by the past 19 editions of the festival's Fashion Competition
have since become essential names in the world of fashion: Viktor & Rolf, Gaspard
Yurkievich, Anke Loh, Alexandre Matthieu, Xuly Bët, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, Thierry
Rondenet & Hervé Yvrenogeau (Own), Xavier Delcour, Cyd Jouny, Marc Le Bihan, Karine
Arabian, Sébastien Meunier, Crstof Beaufays, Christian Wijnants, Rivière de Sade,
Sandrina Fasoli, Laurent Edmond, Ute Ploier, Hamid Ed-Dakhissi, Henrik Vibskov, Richard
René, Daniel Ledermann, Swash, C-Neeon, Romain Kremer...
To cite only a prominent few. The Festival’s tight-knit bonds with the fashion industry are
one of its major assets: leading fashion companies sponsor all events and awards, and
thus mark their engagement towards young talent.
8 / THE FASHION COMPETITION
Designers that have taken part in the Festival as members or the jury count Azzedine Alaïa,
John Galliano, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Jean Colonna, Martin Margiela, Martine Sitbon,
Ann Demeulemeester, APC, Mario-Chanet, Helmut Lang, Gilles Dufour, Véronique Leroy,
Michel Perry, Alexander Van Slobbe, Philip Treacy, Hussein Chalayan, Gaspard Yurkievich,
Bernhard Willhelm, Bless, Christophe Lemaire, Karl Lagerfeld, Lutz, José Lévy, Jean Paul
Gaultier, Pierre Hardy, A. F. Vandevorst, Yvan Mispelaere, Anna Sui and many more.
This year, the fashion shows will take place on the beach under a tent conceived by architect
Patrick Bouchain. Light and sound will be designed by Thierry Dreyfus and Frédéric Sanchez.
The villa Noailles reception hall will be re-interpreted for the occasion by David Dubois.
11 FASHION DESIGNERS
In an environment where the development of new fashion brands is becoming increasingly
difficult, it is vital--now more than ever--to help young designers meet the challenges of the
industrial process and, ultimately, the market. Indeed, without either of the two there would
be little incentive to create new designs. Through its sponsors, the Hyères Festival is
committed to providing emerging designers with the right kind of support.
The 1.2.3 Award / In addition to its financial contribution to the festival, the 1.2.3 brand
shall, for the fourth time, present a special award to a selected fashion designer. The winning
individual will have the opportunity to design an entire collection that will be produced
and distributed by 1.2.3. Moreover, the designer will receive a grant of 15,000 euros.
The L'Oréal Professional Award / L'Oréal has been one of the festival's major sponsors
for a number of years. Now, for the first time ever, L'Oréal shall accompany the jury in
bestowing the festival's Grand Prize and provide additional financial support to the
award through a grant of 15,000 euros. This is L'Oréal's way of re-affirming the brand's
commitment to encouraging young fashion design.
The Punto Seta Award / The Italian fabric manufacturer wishes to provide an opportunity
for every designer participating in the festival to produce, free of charge, a fabric of his
or her own creation. In addition, among the participating designers, four shall be chosen
and invited to Punto Seta's production facilities where they will be given free rein to
create and employ any type of fabric (plain, printed, Jacquard, embroidery, etc.). In
2005, Punto Seta invited Romain Kremer and C-Neeon to design the fabrics of the
brand's most recent collection. This year, the 11 competing designers will have the extra
benefit of using fabrics created especially for them and made available for the express
purpose of designing their own collection.
Two other prices / For the first time, Modem will offer winners of the fashion competition
their own mini sites on the "international references" pages of modemonline. Like every year,
Le Book will offer pages and off-prints in their three published editions (Paris, London, New
York) to all stylists.
9 / THE FASHION COMPETITION
SELECTED
FASHION DESIGNERS 2006
Alena Bartschat
Germany / Womenswear collection
HYÈRES 2006
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21 FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL
DE MODE & DE PHOTOGRAPHIE
Julien Dossena
France / Womenswear collection
Julia Eichler
Germany / Womenswear & menswear coll.
“Stranger Than Paradise”
Andrea Klüsener
Germany / Womenswear collection
Amandine Labidoire
France / Menswear collection
Photographic assignment by
Tuomas & Anna Laitinen
Finland / Womenswear & menswear coll.
Thomas Mailaender to be discovered
in the festival’s catalog and in the exhibition
held at the Tour des Templiers.
Éric Lebon
France / Menswear collection
Nathalie Regnault
France / Womenswear collection
“Geo-Graphic Faces on/of(f) Bodies”
Aurore Thibout
France / Womenswear collection
“Memory Clothes”
Tô Long-Nam
Viet Nam / Womenswear collection
“Variations on a Dress Theme”
Anthony Vaccarello
Belgium / Womenswear collection
“J'attends de reconnaître ce que j'ai oublié”
10 / FASHION 2006
FASHION JURY 2006
Serge Carreira / Prada, Paris
Ann Demeulemeester / Fashion designer, Anvers
Serge Girardi / Numéro, Paris
Joyce Ma / C.E.O., Joyce Boutiques
Mademoiselle Agnès / Fashion journalist, Paris
Nathalie Ours / Communication
& fashion consultant, Paris
Maria Luisa Poumaillou / Maria Luisa, Paris
Joseph Quartana / Boutique Seven, New York
Giuseppe Riccardi / Punto Seta, Milan
Robin Schulié / Maria Luisa, Paris
Vassilis Zidianakis / Independent costume curator, Athènes
11 / FASHION JURY 2006
THE PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
Eight years ago, the Hyères Festival opened its doors to young photography with the same
pioneering spirit with which it approaches fashion.
The Festival grants creative young talents a unique opportunity to exhibit their work,
confront points of view with their peers, and, first and foremost, defend their photographic
portafolios in a one-to-one dialogue with art directors, managers of galleries and art institutions, established photographers and a wide variety of professionals working with images
(agents, brand representatives, etc.).
The pictures of the photographers in competition will be displayed in a group exhibition.
A poster campaign with their work will cover the ten cities in the region.
The Festival’s Photography Competition is aimed to push photographers forward — artistically, editorially, commercially— and every year it produces a different creative synergy
that nourishes and revitalizes fashion photography. The festival has helped to launch many
a carreer and initiated fruitful collaborations.
Camille Vivier, Olivier Amsellem, Anushka Blommers and Niels Schumm, Sølve Sundsbø,
Martine Stig, Morgane LeGall, Daniel Stier, Vava Ribeiro, Martha Camarillo, Erwan Frotin,
Charles Fréger, Joël Tettamanti, Mathieu Bernard-Reymond, Loan Nguyen, Timur Çelikdag,
Franco Musso and Luciana Val, Nico Krebs and Taiyo Onorato, Thomas Mailaender, Kathryn
Hillier have all shown their work at Hyères.
Former members of the photography jury include Régis Durand (Jeu de Paume), Christian
Caujolle (Agence Vu), Emmanuel Perrotin (Emmanuel Perrotin gallery), Peter Saville (art
director), Glenn O'Brien (writer), Paul Wombell (The Photographers’ Gallery), Luca Stoppini
(Vogue Italia), Marie-Claude Beaud (Mudam, Luxembourg), Alex Wiederin (Another
Magazine), Stephen Frailey (School of Visual Arts, NY), Terry Jones (i-D Magazine), Elfie
Semotan (photographer), Dennis Freedman (W Magazine) and more.
The ten selected photographers will benefit of the production of the best quality manual and
digital art prints within the framework of their exhibition presented a the villa Noailles (produced
in partnership with our long time partners Janvier and Publimod image laboratories).
Besides, each one of them will receive a Hewlett Packard (Photosmart pro B9180 ink jet, fine art
exhibition printer and pigmented inks).
And big news for this year's festival, a book on the work of the selected photographers has been
produced in partnership HP, which will showcase more deeply the work of each artist. Le Book
will offer all the artists pages and cards on their three editions (Paris, Londres and New York).
12 / THE PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
Group exhibition of the selected photographers, 2004 © Michel Mallard
10 PHOTOGRAPHS
Even though these images were exposed as part of a fashion festival, it would be
somewhat vain if we expected them to show nothing more than a fashion story; and for
good reason, as this is not their aim, nor is it the criteria by which they were selected.
The underlying ambition at the foundation of this photographic exhibition, is not
a representation of fashion itself, but a staging – with photography foremost – of
photographic works and their young authors, in their original format, without modification.
When they first take part, most photographers at Hyères are aged between 20 and
30 years of age and many of them have yet to undergo the experience of a commission.
Often unknown on the gallery circuit, having yet to penetrate the specialised press or
advertising, they are still experimenting with, embellishing their vocabulary.
Each undertaking their own individual work, in their own direction which may be as
varied as portraiture or landscape photography, from snapshots to large format, fictional
stagings or reportage. The feature they most have in common: a strong and innovative
visual language and a type of photography which, whilst borrowing from the world,
attempts to attach its own unique vision to it in return.
13 / THE PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION
SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHERS 2006
Leon Chew /
Great Britain
Marina Gadonneix /
France
Estelle Hanania /
France
14 / SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHERS 2006
Robi Rodriguez /
Spain, Great Britain
Jaap Scheeren /
Netherlands
Luke Stephenson /
Great Britain
15 / SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHERS 2006
Caroll Taveras /
United States
Esther Teichmann /
Germany, Great Britain
< Nadja
Tempest /
Switzerland
Lukas
Wassmann /
Switzerland >
16 / SELECTED PHOTOGRAPHERS 2006
PHOTOGRAPHY JURY 2006
Tony Bannon / Director
George Eastman House, Rochester, New York
Tony Chambers / Creative director
Wallpaper Magazine, London
Frits Gierstberg / Curator
Nederlands Fotomuseum, Rotterdam
Jörg Koch / Creative director
032 C, Berlin
Richard Hsu / Brand, communication & design consultant, Shanghai
Clémentine Mercier / Photo editor
Libération, Paris
Michael Olu Odukoya / Creative director
Kilimandjaro Magazine, London
Kathy Ryan / Photo editor
The New York Times Magazine, New York
Jason Schmidt / Photographer, New York
17 / PHOTOGRAPHY JURY 2006
THE EXHIBITIONS
In addition to the exhibits devoted to the fashion designers and photographers
selected through the competition, curator Michel Mallard also strives to combine the
works of young talents and established artists. Each edition of the festival provides
an opportunity to commission projects from two young photographers chosen from
among the finalists of previous years: one focusing on the creations of the designers
in the competition and the other on the city of Hyères.
In the past, Jeff Riedel, Cédric Buchet and Erwan Frotin have offered their visions of
the fashion collections, while Éric Nehr, Maurice Scheltens, Stefan Ruiz and Charles
Fréger have created portraits of the town, its landscapes and its inhabitants.
The curatorial program also gives artists who are recognized and respected in the
world of the visual arts a chance to be discovered by a wider public. The festival has
thus spotlighted the works of Javier Vallhonrat, Guido Mocafico, Jean-Philippe
Delhomme, Sølve Sundsbø and Kyoichi Tsuzuki with his "Happy Victims", a series on
Japanese fashion fanatics.
By the same token, various incursions of fashion into the spheres of music, video and
design find their place in the programming. Festival-goers will remember the
intriguing duos formed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino and Martine Sitbon, Jean Colonna
and Jeff Burton, or Marcus Tomlinson and Hussein Chalayan. Special exhibits
mounted on the initiative of Jean-Pierre Blanc have featured a collaboration
between Gaspard Yurkievich and Dani Siciliano and a visionary interpretation of
French shoes by the Bouroullec brothers Ronan and Erwan.
These exhibits often take to the road after appearing in Hyères. For example,
Kyoichi Tsuzuki's "Happy Victims" went from the 2002 Festival to the Centre
National de la Photographie in Paris for its 20th anniversary and then to the
Photographers' Gallery in London in 2003, in MUDAM, Luxemburg in 2004 and in
Carrillo Gil, Mexico City, in 2005. Similarly, the show by Sølve Sundsbø has been
seen in Vienna.
18 / THE EXHIBITIONS
Norbert Schoerner exhibition, 2005 © Michel Mallard
Azzedine Alaïa exhibition, 2005 © Michel Mallard
19 / THE EXHIBITIONS
THE PROGRAM
Ann Demeulemeester /
Saul Leiter /
17xAnn de hier pour Hyères
Hues
POOL & GYMNASIUM
GALERIE D’ACTUALITÉ
Ann Demeulemeester was the first designer of her generation to propel Belgian
fashion onto the international scene. In
London, in 1986, she participated in the
“Antwerp Six”, a collective that stirred up
the creative scene. Five years later,
Demeulemeester was showed in Paris.
Ann Demeulemeester is an independent
designer in the truest sense. While
serious, she is never severe. She is meticulous, yet experimental. Her lines are
forceful, but always sensual. Ann is
emotive, elegant… and rock’n roll. A
member of the fashion jury for the Hyères
festival in 1993, she returned in 2004 to
visit the villa Noailles during a tour that
explored modernism along the Côte
d'Azur. A longtime friend of the Festival,
Ann Demeulemeester was an evident
choice for its 21st edition.
American photographer and painter
Saul Leiter was born in 1923 and lives
and works in New York. He is a pioneer
of color photography highly regarded for
his New York streets photographs and
remembered for his participation in the1953
landmark exhibition at the MoMA —the first
color photographs held in a museum, as an
initiative of Edward Steichen. Leiter’s
metropolis stands far from the feverish
intensity depicted by William Klein. Leiter’s
images are graphic constructions in which
color is distributed in large flat surfaces in
compositions that tend towards abstraction.
In his work, the urban flow slows down its pace
to a few moments of quietude. During the
50’s, 60’s and 70’s, while pursuing his personal
work, he was commissioned by magazines
such as Harper’s Bazaar, Esquire, Nova, Vogue
UK. The present exhibition offers a generous
choice of photographs –some published,
some unpublished— made for fashion
magazines or for advertising. A selection of his
personal work was presented last winter at the
Howard Greenberg Gallery, N.Y., both
exhibitions striving towards the urgent
rediscovery of this photographer.
© Image : Patrick Robyn
20 / THE PROGRAM
Jason Schmidt /
Sébastien Meunier /
Stand tall
Fanatic room
SQUASH
SALON & SALLES À MANGER
Hundreds of models stand in rank to
form a giant "V" on a lawn in Central
Park, two women measure their
physique against the doric columns of
the Parthenon while two others project
their shadow onto Le Nôtre's garden
designs before the fountains of
Versailles. Jason Schmidt's photography
is total glamour, grandeur and humour.
Following an Art History degree in 1991,
Jason Schmidt turns to photography
and publishes his work in The New York
Times Magazine, Vanity Fair, British
Vogue, L'Uomo Vogue, Harper's Bazaar,
The New Yorker and V Magazine. For
several years now, he has been shooting
portraits of the contemporary art scene;
a project which is set for publication in
the Fall of 2006. Architecture, fashion,
portraits: Jason Schmidt's pictures are
always an excuse for staged situations
that are both daring and to the point.
The present exhibition shall review the
fashion work he has accomplished for
the magazines cited above.
“Everyone has dreamed of being a
super-hero!
But my long-limbed body was not cut
out for their tight suits.
And I had to invent clothes to structure
the character I wanted to be: or rather,
reveal the deeply hidden inner self, to
bring it to light, without prudery…
My clothes, my invitations became an
intimate biography, revealing a little more
of myself with every season.
Fans may be dying to be rock-stars,
singing naked in public…
Why not discover the bedroom of such
a fan in Hyères?”
SÉBASTIEN MEUNIER
© Image : Pierre Gayte
21 / THE PROGRAM
Thomas Mailaender /
Kathryn Hillier /
Commissioned photography based
Photography assignment on the city of Hyères
on the work of selected designers.
SALON ROSE
TOUR DES TEMPLIERS
This year, it is Thomas Mailaender, a young
French artist living between Paris and
Marseille, who has been commissioned to
photograph the work of the fashion
designers selected for the festival. His
artistic thought takes the documentary as its
point of departure. Adopting an approach
that can almost be qualified as scientific,
he draws up an inventory of seemingly
insignificant moments, sometimes
grotesque, and, through his images,
transforms these instances into something that
is staggeringly monumental. Ordinary people
find themselves in highly unlikely situations, to
say the least. In his most recent series of
photographs, people who have gotten used
to playing only supporting roles finally get
their 15 minutes of fame in a pictorial
atmosphere that borrows as much from
mythological heroism as it does from The
Guiness Book of World Records. It is this same
poetry of the absurd that Thomas Mailaender
shall articulate in the present project.
Otherwise based in New York, for this
year's festival Kathryn Hillier lets her gaze
come to rest over the town of Hyères and
its surrounding area. Distinguished last
year with the jury's First Prize award, she
now practices her art as a solitary stroller.
Through her photography, she reveals
the unconscious side of even our most
familiar environments: the minute fault
lines along which the unreal can interfere,
the moments and places where light and
pattern converge to sway reality. Mere
bits and pieces of what is real, these
pictures are immune to any hasty
interpretations. They are inner
landscapes which, with each passing day,
piece together the pages of a diary.
Indeed, Kathryn Hillier's reality is highly
subjective; perhaps it may connect with
your own.
22 / THE PRROGRAM
Romain Kremer /
Michael Dal Vecchio /
JARDINS DE LA VILLA NOAILLES
CHAMBRE D’AMI
Both a surrealist and a militant, Romain
Kremer challenges masculine dress wear
and proposes an evolutive performance
aiming to seize time and space.
A host of anonymous, animated ghosts
and statues glides into the Villa Noailles.
Infinitely multiplied, the silhouettes strive
to sublime conquered territory, imposing
graphic and ephemeral tension, variations on themes of flight and repetition.
A series of bizarre settings where dreams
and parody are intertwined…
All the while renewing his iconography,
Michael Dal Vecchio is also taking
a fresh approach to the traditional
technique of cut paper. Even if his
shadow puppet theatre gleefully
combines the stylistic exuberance of
Art Nouveau with the graphic
agressiveness of "hard rock" tatoos,
the fragility of the material remains
both surprising and fascinating.
Fantasies, death, melancholy, all
captive of this frail network of lines,
frolic in a choreography that is as
exquisite as it is poisonous.
© Image : Cécile Bortoletti
23 / THE PRROGRAM
Justin Morin /
CHAMBRES DE MADAME & MONSIEUR
This young visual artist diverts techniques
and materials that normally belong to the
world of fashion in order to create images
that are both touching and disturbing. Such
is the case in his canvases of embroidered
portraits of friends, either famous or
unknown, or his still-life compositions made
of self-adhesive sequins spread on the walls.
On behalf of the festival, Justin Morin lays
claim to the rooms of Charles and MarieLaure de Noailles. He has thus been invited
to take the festival full circle by imparting
his own vision, intimate or pictorial, of the
fashion world.
24 / THE PRROGRAM
THE EVENTS
FESTIVAL’S OPENING
inauguration coktail, Friday 28 April 6.30 p.m. - villa Noailles
FASHION SHOWS
April 28 th, 29 th & 30 th
Friday 28 April, 9 p.m.
Saturday 29 April, 8.30 p.m. & 9.30 p.m.
Sunday April 30 th, 4.30 p.m. (followed by the awards ceremony)
New fashion show venue:
Beneath the circus tent of the Cirque du Centaure
designed by architect Patrick Bouchain, Ayguade beach
EXHIBITIONS / VILLA NOAILLES
April 29th - June 3rd 2006
Ann Demeulemeester / fashion
Saul Leiter / photography
Jason Schmidt / photography
Sébastien Meunier / fashion installation
Thomas Mailaender / photography assignment - fashion
Kathryn Hillier / photography assignment - city of Hyères
Romain Kremer / performance - fashion
Michaël Dal Vecchio / fashion installation
Justin Morin / art - fashion
Opening hours
Friday 28 April, opening at 6.30 p.m.
Saturday 29 April, from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Sunday 30 April, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Monday 1 May, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Closed on May 2nd, 3rd & 4th
From Friday May 5th
Open every day from 10 a.m. to 12 p.m. & from 2 p.m. to 6 p.m.
closed on Monday, Tuesday & public holidays
Free entrance
25 / THE EVENTS
© Cyrille Weiner
INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE
& FASHION ENCOUNTERS
Organized by the "Fédération française de la couture, du prêt-à-porter" with the
"Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana," "l'Union Française des Industries de
l'Habillement (UFIH)," "le Conseil National des Succursalistes de l'Habillement," and
"l'Union des Industries Textiles" with the support of DEFI and the collaboration of
"l'Institut Français de la Mode," the international meetings of textile and fashion are
intended for professionals so to facilitate the reflections and debates around varied
topics such as intellectual property, Euro-Mediterranean exchanges, the "Made in
France" mark, new distribution opportunities with the internet and others.
They take place in the gardens of the villa Noailles during the festival.
26 / ENCOUNTERS
ROUND TABLES
Saturday April 29, 2006
> 10.30 a.m. - Fashion and accessories
> 2.30 p.m. - European fashion and the international environment,
"Focus on the Euro-Mediterranean zone"
> 4.30 p.m. - "Made In France", an asset for the European marks?
Sunday April 30, 2006
> 11.30 a.m. - Intellectual Property: Evolution of Legislation
> 2 p.m. - Fashion design and the Internet: a new opportunity?
* sous réserve de modifications
27 / ENCOUNTERS
LVMH
HYÈRES FOR TOMORROW …
For the eighth year in a row, LVMH brings its support to the Festival International de Mode et de
Photographie à Hyères
Through the creations and products of its Houses, the LVMH group Moët Hennessy – Louis
Vuitton, world leader in the luxury business, perpetuates and passes on know-how, a spirit of
excellence as well as an exceptional way of living. Creativity and innovation are part of our fundamental values, they are the energy behind LVMH’s brands, be it in fashion and leather goods,
perfumes and cosmetics, wines and spirits or watches and jewelry.
LVMH wishes to encourage talent by helping young people operating in the fields of luxury.
It is in this spirit that, for eight years now, LVMH has patronized the Hyères Festival. This event,
which takes place each year in the south of France, allows young promising European designers
to show their first collection before a jury composed of professionals.
Viktor & Rolf, Xavier Delcour, Sébastien Meunier, Gaspard Yurkievich, Alexandre Matthieu and
Oscar Suleyman, Felipe Oliveira Baptista, among others, have been discovered at Hyères Festivals, by receiving the Jury’s Grand Prix.
Year after year, the Hyères Festival has discovered talent in fashion.
This is why, for the eighth year in a row, LVMH, which groups together major designers and offers
them the means to develop their talent, is associating itself with the Hyères Festival as an official
sponsor.
28 / PARTNERS
L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL
Creativity and innovation are two essential values of L’Oréal Professional, who once again this year
supports creation by sponsoring the 21st edition of the International Fashion and Photography
Festival of Hyères.
Real source of new talent in the fashion world, this annual rendez-vous has become unmissable
on the international scene, gathering in the South of France young European designers in front
of a jury of professionals.
For the sixth year now, L’Oréal Professional is proud to sponsor young creators for hair.
As well as sponsoring the biggest’s hairdressers, like Eugene Souleiman, Guido Palau, Luigi
Murenu, Orlando Pita or even Odile Gilbert with tecni.art, L’Oréal Professionnel supports young
creators like Sophia Kokosalaki, Véronique Leroy, Giambattista Valli, Lutz… and also Gaspard
Yukievich and Viktor & Rolf, two talents revealed by the festival.
This year for the first time: L’Oréal Professionnel reinforces its support of young creation by
giving, with the jury, the first price of the festival and a grant of 1500 euros, showing once more
L’Oréal Professional’s engagement for young contemporary creation.
29 / PARTNERS
1.2.3
THE DESIGNERS OF 1.2.3
WITH THE FESTIVAL OF HYÈRES
The 21st edition of the Festival of Hyères, April
28 to May 1, 2006, is supported for the fourth time
by 1.2.3 with the preview shows by "79 934 321"
(Autumn 2006) and Tonja Zeller (Spring 2007).
This partnership, supports the production and
marketing of the work by designers who have
been distinguished by the festival. In addition to
its financial contribution to the Festival, 1.2.3
rewards one or more creators taking part in the
festival with production assistance for their label.
This prize consists of support in the amount of
15 000 euros to the selected creator, but more
especially in the production and the marketing
of a collection of six to eight looks.
What could be more essential, for a designer
than to be produced and marketed? Through
this operation, with the assistance of 1.2.3, the
festival achieves its vocation which is not only to
promote the new creation of fashion at the
international level, but also to accompany the
creators with all the stages by their development,
until the necessary experiment with the industry
leads to the market.
With 1.2.3, the Festival establishes a link
between new fashion design and the market. In
2006, the apparel of design collective "79934
321" will be available in May in the shop on Rivoli
and Tonja Zeller's collection for Spring 2007 is
to come.
THE FESTIVAL OF HYÈRES
Since 1986, Festival International de Mode et
Photographie (Fimph) has played a significant
role in the identification and promotion of the
very best in new international fashion design.
Each year, ten designers present their first
collection in the professional conditions that the
festival provides. Viktor&Rolf, Xavier Delcour,
Gaspard Yurkievich, Alexandre Matthieu as well
of others were thus discovered within the
framework of this festival that holds true to the
industry.
1.2.3
Born in 1983 from the Etam Group, 1.2.3 was
created to invest in new prêt-à-porter and is a
leader in the field today.
Considerate of seasonal shows so to formulate
innovative and current apparel, 1.2.3 reinforces
its brand while providing young designers with
the timely opportunity to present their designs
and win a place in the market.
Above, collection 79 934 321 photographed by Jake Rowland.
PRESSING T / 01 42 01 51 00 - [email protected]
Info and high definition images available on request and the site
www.pressingonline.com
30 / PARTNERS
JANVIER
An historical partner of the Festival International de Mode et de Photographie à Hyères, Janvier
is a specialist in the processing of images devoted to fashion, luxury and beauty.
From digital photography (through DTOUCH) to a professional lab (PUBLIMOD’PHOTO) to postproduction (JANVIER) and photoengraving (ANALOGUE), the Janvier Group offers photographers and art directors cutting-edge solutions for every function in the field of graphics.
For the third time, the Publimod’Photo laboratory is participating this year, along with Janvier, in
the preparation of the exhibits. An expert in both traditional and digital processes, the lab is
putting its know-how in the developing and printing of silver emulsion film at the service of the
photographers exhibiting at the festival.
With its synergetic blend of top-level skills, the Janvier Group takes its place alongside the other
participants in this event, which is always a breeding ground for talent and creativity.
31 / PARTNERS
DEFI
The DEFI, Comité de Développement et de Promotion de l'Habillement (C.D.P.H.) — known
until the year 2000 as the Comité de Développement et de Promotion du Textile et de l'Habillement (C.D.P.T.H.) — has for almost 22 years, under its different banners, carried out the same
mission: exemplifying and vindicating the French clothing industry.
1n 2005, after three threatening, worrisome years filled with struggles to maintain its activities,
shore up its resources and ensure its continued existence, the DEFI received legal recognition of
its public-service status of its missions.
For the sixth consecutive year the DEFI can thus once again actively participate in The Festival
d'Hyères, and, more specifically, in the Rencontres Internationales du Textile et de l'Habillement.
It does so with all the more enthusiasm and interest in that many of the subjects to be discussed
and debated by the event's panels reflect its own strategic concerns.
Indeed, for the past 9 years, in addition to its actions in the area of export-based subsidies
— eared to offer direct assistance to companies seeking to develop their export activities —
DEFI has worked to reinforce business competitiveness through Creativity development, through
training in anti-counterfeit issues, through anti-counterfeit initiatives themselves (on which the
very life of this Creativity depends) and through its interest in the availability and use of new
technologies.
In all these areas, the subjects to be discussed at Hyères—and the conclusions to which they
will lead—will provide the DEFI Board of Directors with food for thought, and will inspire the
projects it will be called upon to consider.
This is but one of the many reasons that we are extremely pleased to attend the 6th Rencontres
Internationales, and that we yet again wish you the best of success with this excellent event.
32 / PARTNERS
QUEST
Since 2004 QUEST INTERNATIONAL, a fragrances and flavors creator, supports the Festival
International de Mode et de Photographie à Hyères. Since its founding in 1987, our company
has always placed the highest value on daring and innovation while promoting artistic creation
in the field of olfaction.
Our presence among the sponsors of this festival gives us a new opportunity to encourage
young creators and open the way for the trends of tomorrow.
33 / PARTNERS
FRANCE CULTURE
FRANCE CULTURE will be glad to take part in the Fashion and Photography Festival in Hyères
and will be settle at the Villa Noailles during the event for the broadcast of Arnaud Laporte,
"Tout arrive", live and in public, Friday 28 of April from 12h00 to 13h30.
TV5MONDE
TV5MONDE is the world’s second largest television network : broadcast in over 200 countries,
with 163 million homes connected to the channel and 73 million viewers watching TV5MONDE
each week.
General-entertainment channel, TV5MONDE broadcasts the best audiovisual programmes in
French, eighteen daily newscasts, and produces various magazines on cultural life in Frenchspeaking countries.
LE TV5MONDE, the new daily live magazine, offers a 360° looks at the world with a team of
columnists, guests and in liaison with the channel’s 300 correspondants accross the world. Every
Wednesday, Maire-Christiane Marek reveals the latest trends of fashion. Thanks to her, the whole
world is going to discover the Hyères’s « Festival international de la mode et de la photographie ».
LIBÉRATION
Throughout the year, the french daily newspaper "LIBÉRATION" joins demonstrations and events
in all the universes of the culture and the knowledge. These partnerships prolong the choices of
our newspaper, its discoveries, its blows of heart, its engagements, and mark the support of
"LIBÉRATION" for the initiatives most established like more innovating. "LIBÉRATION" is thus
happy to be partner of the International Festival of Mode and Photography in Hyères.
34 / PARTNERS
21 E FESTIVAL INTERNATIONAL
DE MODE & DE PHOTOGRAPHIE À HYÈRES
villa Noailles
FASHION / PHOTOGRAPHY / EXHIBITIONS / PANEL DISCUSSIONS
APRIL 28TH - MAY 1ST 2006 / Hyères
Press
Festival’s press office & accreditations > Pressing : T / +33 (0)1 42 01 51 00
[email protected]
villa Noailles press office > Philippe Boulet : T / +33 (0)6 82 28 00 47
[email protected]
Adress / villa Noailles, Montée Noailles 83400 Hyères
Festival Information : T / +33 (0)4 98 08 01 98
www.villanoailles-hyeres.com / [email protected]
ACCREDITATIONS: VILLA NOAILLES
© Cover : Grégoire Alexandre / Design : Michel Mallard Studio