Our Favorite Restaurants in Italy

Transcription

Our Favorite Restaurants in Italy, edited by Rick Zullo. Contributing writers: Eleonora Baldwin,
Gillian McGuire, Judy Witts, and Monica Cesarato.
Copyright © 2013 Richard S. Zullo. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced, stored electronically, or transmitted in any way or form, whether physical,
electronic, or otherwise, without the express written consent of the editor and the authors who
have contributed.
DISCLAIMER:
The content of this book is for informational purposes only. The authors have made every effort
to ensure the accuracy of the material. However, no guarantee is provided regarding the
information put forth. Furthermore, the authors accept no responsibility for the quality or
nature of the content found within any external websites linked throughout the text. The links
are provided as a convenience to the reader and do not imply an official endorsement by the
authors unless specifically stated.
http://rickzullo.com
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Table of contents
ROME WITH ELEONORA BALDWIN ...........................................................6
THE AMALFI COAST WITH GILLIAN MCGUIRE............................................ 13
FLORENCE AND TUSCANY WITH JUDY WITTS ........................................... 17
VENICE WITH MONICA CESARATO ......................................................... 22
IN CONCLUSIONE ............................................................................. 27
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A S C H O S E N B Y I TA LY ’ S TO P F O O D B L O G G E R S
Undoubtedly, one of the main reasons that so many travelers flock to Italy every year is to
indulge in the rich food culture. Italian restaurants are found in every corner of the globe—yet
what passes for “Italian food” in other countries is often a vague approximation of the genuine
regional dishes of Italy. Still, it would not be inaccurate to say that Italian food is the world’s
most popular type of cuisine.
Consequently, when folks finally arrive in Italy for their long-awaited vacation, one of the first
things on their itinerary is finding a quaint little trattoria and sitting down for a long, delicious,
authentic meal. Too often, unfortunately, they’re disappointed.
At least part of this might be blamed on the tourists’
expectations. After all, Vinny’s Pizza and Pasta Palace back in
South Philly serves up a pretty mean shrimp parmesan—and so
what’s this trippa alla romana sitting on my plate? Authentic?
Yes. But not so easy to “sell” to the international masses.
However, there are also other, more subtle forces at work here.
For some reason, visitors frequently succumb to the irresistible
pull of “tourist traps,” despite their best efforts to avoid them.
Why is this? Well, for one thing, the restaurants that are the
best at advertising or finding their way into the popular
guidebooks are not always the ones that offer the best or most
authentic food. Indeed, quite often the opposite is true. I don’t
mean to imply that a trattoria with a slick website should be
considered inauthentic for that reason alone, but perhaps it
might raise your suspicions if they appear to be putting more effort into their marketing than
their menu.
Up until recently, I still fell into this trap once in a while when visiting an unfamiliar city.
Nothing is more aggravating than having a bad meal in Italy. It’s like going to the Caribbean for
a beach vacation and it ends up raining all week. Fortunately, I’ve found a good solution to this
frustrating problem. There are a number of qualified foodies out there that have done all the
hard work for us and are willing to share their knowledge through various outlets such as
smartphone apps, blogs, and cookbooks. What’s more, these folks aren’t afraid to get their own
hands “in the dough,” so to speak, by offering cooking classes, food tours, and wine tastings to
eager travelers throughout Italy. They are the true experts in all food related pursuits, from
shopping at the markets, to preparing the meals, and then finally to writing about it all in a fun
and engaging way.
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Not only do these people have first-hand knowledge, but they also have the benefit of feedback
from the travelers that they’ve worked with: the students in their classes, the clients taking
their food tours, and the commenters on their blogs. And these writers are all people with a
foot in two cultures, having been born abroad but living in Italy, or born in Italy and having lived
abroad. Therefore, they are all bilingual, both linguistically and culturally, which has helped
them to understand what types of food experiences “translate” best to their clients and readers.
In addition to food quality, there are other practical considerations. Of course, price is
sometimes a factor in choosing a place to eat. And so is location.
Some of my favorite restaurants in Rome are well outside the
historical center. Great food at reasonable prices. But it would be
impractical to suggest these to a person who is in town on vacation
for three or four days. It often requires a train and two buses to
reach some of these locales, and in the end, the average tourist
might be put off by the location or the (lack of) ambiance in the
humble osterie that my wife and I frequent.
Another factor often lost on first-time visitors to Italy is the
incredible diversity in regional cuisines. As I mentioned before, the
term “Italian food” used in foreign countries really doesn’t have
much meaning within Italia. So if you want to sample authentic
cuisine, then it’s best to stick to the local dishes when dining out,
© CIBANDO
whether you’re at an osteria in Rome or a barcaro in Venice. For
this reason, I have asked these writers to share with me their choices from specific regions in
Italy. Certainly, they are all well-versed in the many regional cuisines throughout the country.
But I wanted to know about the exact places in their own respective areas that they personally
return to again and again.
I could go on and on, but why should I bore you with my musings? I was tempted to add my own
two cents to this book, but thankfully common sense trumped my vanity. After reading their
suggestions, I realized that my input would only diminish the value of this concise and accurate
guide. Instead, I’ll try to stay out of their way as much as possible. (And it should go without
saying that any factual errors or misspellings are mine, not theirs.)
*
So, if you want to have a few “sure things” in your pocket for your next trip to Italy, you simply
cannot do better than the advice of these writers. However, if you’re considering the fullimmersion, authentic experience, you should contact them directly to book a food tour or take a
cooking class. If you’re not travelling to Italy in the near future, you can take a “virtual tour”
with them via their iPhone applications or their blogs. Warning: many of their photos can
instigate ravenous fits of insatiable appetite, causing you to spontaneously book a flight to Italy.
There are worse things to worry about, I suppose.
I’d like to thank them all for generously responding to my query for top-notch suggestions. What
makes this little guide even more fun is that they all took a slightly different approach, whether
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they chose to organize their picks by neighborhood, time of day, or type of food. And just to be
clear, they have offered these suggestions purely out of their passion for great food and their
love for the authentic regional cuisines of Italy. No payments have exchanged hands and no
bribes were proffered in the making of this little guide (although I was prepared to go there, if
necessary). In the end, this is simply honest advice for travelers who want to take the
guesswork out of the equation so that they can enjoy the very best food of Italy while on
vacation without feeling ripped off or disappointed.
Without further ado…buon appetito! First stop: Roma!
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ROME WITH ELEONORA BALDWIN
One of the challenges to finding a good restaurant in Rome is that there are just too many
options. This is especially true within the historical center where they are all fighting
ferociously for every tourist’s Euro. Walking around Piazza Navona or Campo de’ Fiori, you’ll
see an indiscrete number of establishments offering tourist menus in five or six languages. Red
and white checkered table clothes abound, framed still shots from The Godfather on the walls,
and Frank Sinatra bellowing from the stereo. Yet even among this circus, there are hidden
gems.
OK, so let’s say that you successfully avoid all the tourist traps and zero-in on a few authentic
Roman restaurants. Then there’s the cuisine itself to consider, which isn’t always immediately
appealing to the uninitiated straniero (foreigner). Second courses often feature various
frattaglie (innards) and scarti (scraps) that, while delicious when prepared properly, don’t
necessarily translate well on the menu. It’s almost overwhelming enough to just give up and
look for a hamburger.
That’s where Eleonora Baldwin comes in. She knows what’s good and where you can find it in
Rome (even a good hamburger, if you must).
Eleonora is an American born, Italian raised citizen of the
world. After a successful career in graphic design and in the
motion picture business, she is now an active writer and
journalist, blogger, gourmet vacation planner and
photographer.
Eleonora lives in Rome, and reports her insider knowledge
and passion for a number of webzines, blogs and online food
and travel platforms. Her writing appears regularly in several
online food columns that focus on Italian recipes, culinary
customs and ways of life. Her blogs illustrate recipes, restaurant reviews, and useful tools for
parents traveling with kids in Rome.
She can be spotted in and around the Eternal City guiding epicure travelers to secret food and
wine shrines, interviewing celebrity chefs, and capturing with her camera the essence, beauty
and life that surrounds her.
Eleonora has recently started filming an independent web-series called Home Cooked, entirely
shot on location in Italy, in which she shares family recipes, cooking tips and a candid insight
into daily life in Rome.
Eleonora Baldwin has written, edited and contributed to numerous travel and lifestyle
publications, including the third edition of Frommer's Day by Day Guide to Rome, which sold
over 1 million copies within months of its release in January 2012. In the complete Frommer's
Italy 2013, she shares insider tips and local Rome knowledge. In Harper-Collins’ The Holiday
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Goddess Handbag Guide, Baldwin provides interesting advice for bon vivants in the Rome
chapter.
The manuscript of her first book—a memoir with recipes—is due for publication in 2014.
Given all of these qualifications, we could hardly ask for a better guide to dining out in The
Caput Mundi. Let’s see what she suggests…
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LA CUCINA ROMANA
(authentic Roman restaurants)
Agustarello a Testaccio
Via Giovanni Branca, 98/100 (Testaccio) | Tel. +39 06 574 6585 | Inexpensive
A step away from the old Roman slaughterhouse, Agustarello is one of Testaccio’s most
wonderful informal dining establishments. Honest, down to earth and affordable. The food?
Fantastic, homemade and hearty. The menu changes according to the season and availability of
the ingredients. Look for Coda alla vaccinara (stewed oxtail), Trippa (tripe), animelle e
muscoletti (a “salad” made with nerves and other odd meat cuttings), fagioli con le cotiche
(beans and pork cracklings), pajata (a fantastic dish made with suckling lamb’s intestines). The
usual homemade desserts, which may include tiramisu or the awesome crostata di visciole (a
sour cherry tartlet) are all to die for. House wine, poured from a jug.
Armando al Pantheon
Salita dei Crescenzi 31 (Pantheon) | Tel. +39 0668803034 | www.armandoalpantheon.it
| Moderate | Open weekdays lunch and dinner; Saturday only for lunch
Despite its location near the Pantheon, Armando al Pantheon is not a tourist restaurant. Chef
and owner Claudio Gargioli and his family gracefully serve quality cucina romana at moderate
prices seasonality as their main concern. I reccommend typical Roman staples like pasta alla
gricia, amatriciana, cacio e pepe, or the delightful pasta e ceci soup. In addition to meat
entrees like roast lamb, saltimbocca and trippa stewed with tomato sauce, pecorino and mint,
or the delectable pajata, Armando al Pantheon also cares about pleasing vegetarians, who can
choose from their own separate menu. There’s also a good wine list.
La Ciambella
Via dell'Arco della Ciambella 22 (Pantheon) | Tel. +39 066832930 | www.laciambellaroma.com
| Always open, 7am to midnight | Moderate
Spacious and well lit, La Ciambella welcomes patrons all day long. Located in a back alley at a
stone’s throw from Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, this pizzeria, restaurant and breakfast joint
focuses its offer on local, organic and seasonal products. Don’t miss the rigatoni 'nduja and
friggitelli (spicy spreadable Calabrian sausage and sautéed greens); the open-faced vegetarian;
the orecchiette with cacioricotta, tomatoes and arugula; nor the terrific and affordable “aglio,
olio e peperoncino” pasta (I’m a huge fan…). Entrees feature a tender beef filet that has been
steeped in Marsala marinade, served with cous-cous; or the Prussian rib-eye steak served with a
grilled veggie medley. Aperitivo is served starting at 6 pm, alongside tapas, snacks and expressly
cooked mouthfuls; great cocktails, craft beers and a handsome selection of wines and
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Champagnes by the glass. Dinner is à la carte and served between 8 and 11 pm, and the pizza
oven churns excellent pies for both lunch and dinner, until midnight.
Nonna Betta
Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16 (Jewish Ghetto) | Tel. +39 0668806263 |
www.nonnabetta.it | Moderate
This is the only real authentic kosher restaurant in the Ghetto serves
some of the best Jewish Roman cuisine in the city. In addition to the
traditional local dishes (fried artichokes, fried vegetables, fried cod
filets, fried zucchini flowers, anchovies with endive, concia
(marinade zucchini) and tagliolini with chicory and bottarga), there
is also a selection of Middle Eastern specialties such as falafel,
couscous and tuna with tahini. It also has a good wine list with Israeli
labels.
Salumeria Roscioli
Via dei Giubbonari 22 (Campo de’ Fiori) | Tel. +39 06 6875287 | www.salumeriaroscioli.com |
Closed Sunday, open 9 am to midnight | Moderate
The Salumeria Roscioli is a historic Roman gourmet institution, among the most famous
deli/restaurants in Rome and one of Italy’s top 5 wine bars. Roscioli's shelves carry 450 different
kinds of cheese, more than 100 different types of cured meat, a wine list of 2200 labels, and 20
different homemade breads. The Roscioli family – true to perfect Italian tradition – is part of a
bread baker dynasty in Rome and has been working together since 1969. Lunch and late night
dinner meals are consumed at small tables by the deli counter, sharing space with a ‘50s Merkel
slicer and display cases overflowing with goodness. Best carbonara in the universe, dreamy
burrata, white truffles (in season) and interesting gourmet burgers.
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ROMAN STREET FOOD
Dar Filettaro
Via S. Barbara 88 (Campo de’ Fiori) | Tel. +39 06 6864018 | Closed Sunday | Open for dinner
from 5 pm. | Inexpensive
If your weakness is fried fish, you can’t skip this baccalà shrine. At the far end of a tiny square
on Via dei Giubbonari, just steps from Campo de Fiori, you'll find a small joint where you can go
crazy on “filetti di baccalà” (cod fillets). These are eaten piping hot, all year round, either
seated at a table in the square or sometimes wrapped in paper while you walk around the
Campo Marzio neighborhood. This fish friery is one of the last remaining faithful to the old
tradition, where the menu consists of one single specialty and little else (sides include mache
salad in the summer, and puntarelle in the winter, beans all year round). Not much has changed
over the years, except that the filets don't come wrapped in newspaper anymore, and though
the prices have gone up (€4 per fillet), it's money well spent. Be patient, as the wait is
mandatory. If pressed for time, just walk inside and head straight to one of the women frying in
back, hand over 4 Euro in exchange for a paper-wrapped fresh fillet. Sit on the church steps with
your filetto and a chilled beer — there's no better therapy for €4.
00100 Trapizzino & Pizza
Via Giovanni Branca 88 (Testaccio) | www.00100pizza.com | Tel. +39 06 43419624 | Open 7 days
noon to midnight | Affordable
You can’t say you’ve had Roman street food until you’ve tried a Trapizzino! These are perfect
pockets of warm pizza dough stuffed with typical Roman fare. Expect meatballs in tomato
sauce, or stewed tripe, tongue with salsa verde, sweetbreads and other delectable offal dishes
in a portable serving. Supplì (fried risotto balls) and gourmet pizza by the slice are also very,
very good here, and the crowds lined up outside are proof of that. No seating, as this is
takeaway only.
Pizzarium
Via della Meloria 43 (Vatican) | Tel. +39 06 3974 5416
| Expensive
Walk in, elbow to the front of the counter, grab a
slice and prepare for ecstasy. Famed bread guru
Gabriele Bonci bakes and serves some of the best
pizza by the slice in town. The secret is in the natural
leavening of the dough, which once baked is crisp on
the outside and deliriously soft and melty on the inside. Toppings change throughout the course
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of the day and Bonci prides in using only the best top-notch ingredients. Favorite Pizzarium
pizzas include: sautéed broccoli rabe and sausage, speck and smoked mozzarella; provola,
cherry tomatoes, porcini and parsley; classic bufala and basil; or the more particular artichoke &
gorgonzola. I love the pumpkin puree, smoked cheese and bacon pizza too. The popular pizza
topped with creamed leeks or roasted potatoes is among the joint’s most famous. The tiny, noseating joint is a nice hike from the Vatican, or a skip and a hop away from the Cipro Metro stop.
Pinsere
Via Flavia 98 (Termini) | Tel. +39 06 42020924 | Open weekdays for lunch, no seating |
Affordable
Ancient Roman pinsa is an oblong flat bread that has very little to do with pizza. Gianni aided by
wife Valentina founded Pinsere in 2012, and both are very serious about their slow rise dough, a
mix of organic and GMO-free flours. But besides the crisp and fluffy base, it's also the amazing
toppings that draw crowds. Some favorites are: pinsa with fresh figs and prosciutto (in season),
La Campionessa: a champion pinsa topped with creamed pumpkin, pancetta and smoked
provola; the pinsa with escarole, flecks of mozzarella and raisins; pinsa with speck and buffalo
mozzarella; or the classic cherry tomato and bufala loaded with pesto and fresh basil. But it
doesn't end at that, as toppings change daily, always with new creative flavor combinations. The
big pleasure goes for a very small price, since even the richest pinsa never costs more than €5,
and it's a hefty serving. All pinse are baked to order in the busy Pinsere oven, and there are also
great cold pasta, cous cous, rice and farro salads to choose from. You can either eat standing up
at the small Pinsere location, or take your boxed pinsa to go, washed down with soft drinks,
bottled mineral water or a nice chilled beer.
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Grazie ancora, Eleonora! Here are her blogs:
Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino
Mobile Captures
Roma Every Day
Forchettine
Rome City Guide for Kids
You can also find her on social media:
Twitter: @passerotto
Facebook: Eleonora Baldwin
Instagram: elebaldwin
YouTube: Eleonora Baldwin
Tumblr: Digital Captures
All her photos on Flickr
Her online resume on LinkedIn
Read more Rome recommendations on Spotted by Locals
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THE AMALFI COAST WITH GILLIAN MCGUIRE
Ah, the Amalfi Coast! Just the mention of this seaside location evokes dreamy visions of sunkissed beaches with rows of lettini (beach chairs) and ombrelloni (big umbrellas), and folks
wearing white linen clothes and big black sunglasses while sipping a Campari cocktail on the
terrazzo of their hotel perched high above the sunbathers. It’s hard to imagine a more delicious
scene.
In fact, the food in this part of Italy is equally delicious—generally on the lighter side with an
emphasis on seafood ingredients. But certainly part of the pleasure of eating on the Amalfi
Coast is the setting itself. Somehow even a simple pizza tastes better when you’re gazing upon
the blue waters of the bay. And Gillian McGuire has a few perfect suggestions to make the most
of this postcard atmosphere, from breakfast to dinner.
It’s no surprise that Gillian is drawn to this area. A lifetime beach girl at heart, she now lives in
Rome while falling in love with the Amalfi
Coast. Luckily, la costiera amalfitana is an
easy drive from Rome and she has made many
trips since moving to Italy in 2006. She spends
the most time in Positano and Capri, but
explores a little more of this incredible part of
Italy with each trip south.
When she’s not enjoying time on the Amalfi
Coast, she’s in Rome, writing for her
blog www.gillianslists.com, helping others
with their blogs, web presence and social
media, working on her other App, Rome for
Expats, and tweeting, Instagraming and
Pinning all the beautiful, delicious things she sees.
Here are some of her suggestions for getting the most out of your stay in the Amalfi Coast…take
it away Gillian!
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Breakfast in Positano
My favorite breakfast in Positano is at the
beachside bar in the Hotel Buca di Bacco. Before
getting on the boat for a day at Da Adolfo, I stop
at the bar located right on the Spiagga
Grande and order a light, sweet brioche and an
icy cold cappuccino freddo. It is the perfect start
to a Positano summer day.
At the end of the day as the sun drops behind the
mountain and the day trippers leave, we perch on
one of the high stools at the Buca di Bacco
cocktail bar and have a cold gin and tonic or draft
beer.
The Buca di Bacco is a 5 star hotel with all of the amenities and none of the steps. There is a
formal restaurant that overlooks the beach and they host extremely popular cooking classes.
The hotel closes the 1st November until the 30th March
Buca di Bacco | Via Rampa Teglia, 4 | http://www.bucadibacco.it
Lunch in Laurito
It is no secret that I love this place. I know there are other beautiful coves and good places to
eat, but we have visited Da Adolfo every single time we have come to Positano.
We celebrate wedding anniversaries and birthdays and just plain old Wednesdays here. I can't
imagine anywhere else has quite the same magic.
It is a little rustic and the pebble beach is a little small, but Da Adolfo is big on charm.
And the food? Oh my, the food. Everything is fresh and local and cooked and then brought to
your table from a precipitous height.
My favorite dishes are cold anchovy or octopus salad, grilled mozzarella on lemon leaves,
and zuppe de cozze (a giant bowl of mussels drenched in a garlicky, tomatoey stew). If there
are friggitelli peppers on the menu, make sure you order that. Don’t forget a pitcher of cold
white wine filled with peaches. End your meal with slices of ice cold watermelon that get bigger
and bigger as the summer months pass.
After lunch, head back to your lettino (beach chair) and ombrellone (big umbrella) and nap the
heat of the day away. You must call ahead to reserve a chair on the beach and a table for
lunch.
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At the ferry jetty in Positano, look for the small boat with the red fish, and you soon will be on
your way for a lazy, delicious day.
Boats leave roughly every half hour starting about 9:30 am in high season.
Da Adolfo | via Laurito 40 | http://www.daadolfo.com
The Best Pizza in Positano
Before you can finish a cold Peroni, have a pizza made
lightning fast in a traditional wood fired oven with tangy
San Marzano tomatoes and gooey fresh mozzarella. It
tastes best when eaten on your villa terrace suspended
over the yacht-filled bay or with legs dangling over the
sea on the pier at sunset.
Hotel Covo Dei Saraceno | Via Regina Giovanna, 5 |
http://www.covodeisaraceni.it/restaurant-and-bar/thebrasserie/
Capri Energy Drink
When I go to Capri for a day trip I wake up thinking about this drink. When we are staying in
Capri for a few days, I sometime have one first thing in the morning and one late in the
afternoon.
It is made to order with freshly squeezed orange juice
and tart, icy, lemon granita. You can just feel all that
vitamin C. It is also indescribably delicious and
refreshing.
The granita is made with lemons that are grown on the
island.
You will find the small stand at the beginning of via
Matteotti, just before the Carthusia perfume factory
and the Gardens of Augustus.
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Elegant Pastries in Amalfi
Grab a white clothed table at the formal Pasticceria Pansa in the shadow of the town’s Duomo.
Order a Campari with fresh squeezed orange juice and watch the evening passeggiata. Take
home a bag of candied ginger, orange and lemon peel.
Pasticceria Pansa | Piazza Duomo | http://www.pasticceriapansa.it/?l=2
For more of Gillian’s picks for the Amalfi Coast, download her app, Amalfi Coast Travel
Essentials. If you’re considering making Rome your new home, her Rome for Expats app is an
absolute must!
Stop by her blog to say “ciao,” at Gillian’s Lists or find her on social media sites such as:
Twitter: @gmcguireinrome
Facebook: Rome For Expats
Instagram: gmcguireinrome
Pinterest: gmcguireinrome
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FLORENCE AND TUSCANY WITH JUDY WITTS
Perhaps Tuscany, even more so than the rest of Italy, brings to mind the hearty bounty of rustic
food paired with heavenly wines. What’s more, even the word “Tuscan” has found a freakish
sort of marketing power outside of Italy for everything from furniture design to gated golf
communities to lamentable restaurant chains. Consequently, it might be that Tuscany has been
the regional cuisine most misrepresented abroad. What exactly is Chicken Florentine or Tuscan
Salad, anyway?
Fortunately, I met Judy Witts through social media. She has lived in Tuscany for most of her
life, including twenty years in the historical center of Florence from 1984- 2004. Not
surprisingly, many of her favorite places to eat were in her old “hood,” right by the San Lorenzo
Market, including little spots inside the market itself. These are wonderful places to stop and
eat if you’re in the area from 7am to 2pm. For example, inside the market she suggests…
Porks: Not just porchetta. They do make porchetta sandwiches, of
course, but the family also specializes in pasta, buying the fresh
pasta at the shop across the market, they make their signature
sauces. The family is from Sicily, so look for some of the Sicilian
specialties as well, such as arancini (stuffed rice balls) and
eggplant parmesan.
Nerbone: Since 1872, this stand has been feeding the market.
They are open for lunch with a full menu available, but they are
famous for their boiled beef or lampredotto sandwiches (a kind of
tripe). You order and can sit at the tables set up in the old
butcher shops in front of the stand.
You can find Nerbone inside the market near the front (street
market) side
Moving beyond the market…
La Cucina del Garga: This is one of Florence’s most favorite restaurants among locals. Owner
“Garga” passed away, but his son Alessandro now carries on the family tradition in a new spot.
Located on Via San Zanobi, near the San Lorenzo market, the food is a twist on classic Tuscan
recipes and the restaurant itself is a work of art. Alessandro’s father and mother and their artist
friends have created a living museum. I adore the pasta with citrus and mint!
Via San Zanobi, 33 red | 055 475286
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Pepó: Another favorite of mine. Franco and Anna own several restaurants in town and this one is
personally run by Anna. Don’t miss the lasagna for a first plate and check out the blackboards
for daily specials. The lunch menu is 10% less than dinner, as they don’t use tablecloths and
stemware for the lunch service and therefore pass the savings on to you.
Via Rosina 4/6 Red | 055/283-259
Trattoria Mario’s: Always a line! Family-owned, there is always a ton of people in front of the
trattoria. Walk inside and leave your name with Fabio and then wait outside until they call you.
Well worth the time. There are daily specials here, too, and the menu is on the wall.
Open only for lunch
Via Rosina, 2 | 055/218-550
Mercato San Lorenzo: A MUST for food and wine lovers. Bring an extra suitcase for all the
goodies to carry home. Some of the larger shops like Baroni and Conti will ship your purchases.
But when you’re in Tuscany, it would be a shame not to venture out into the countryside...
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Chianti Suggestions
Heading out to Chianti is a must. The countryside
has been referred to by my students as Napa on
steroids. Farmland everywhere, vineyards, olive
groves and woods.
Some of the more popular towns to visit are Greve,
Panzano, Castellina and Radda.
Greve is probably the most picturesque, with the
large central piazza and covered loggia’s with
shops. Butcher, baker, artist, lace, leather, and
kitchen shops. Too many great places to list! Worth a day!
Panzano has the famous butcher, Dario Cecchini, with two restaurants. Most people come and
enjoy the lighter lunch menu, burgers or a tasting menu of the offerings of the butcher shop.
Antica Macelleria Cecchini:Officina della Bistecca/ Solocicca/Dario+/
Via XX Luglio, 11, Panzano in Chianti | +39 055/852020
Castellina in Chianti has a main pedestrian promenade with lovely shops. Heading up towards
the city hall, Commune, is one of my favorite
restaurants in Chianti, La Torre.
On the main street is Il Fondaccio, a fun pizza place
with a great appetizer table.
Antica Trattoria La Torre
Piazza del Comune 15 | +39 0577/740236
Located in the upper piazza in Castellina next to the
city hall, this is my favorite stop for lunch or dinner.
Real food, nice moms and a small covered terrace to
eat outdoors. The Stiaccini family has run this trattoria since the 1860s. You know they know
what they’re doing!
This is one of my favorite places to take people for a traditional Tuscan meal.
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Il Fondaccio
The pizzeria Il Fondaccio is a favorite of mine. You can't eat full meals all the time while on
vacation, so Il Fondaccio is a great break. Walking in, you’ll pass their wood-burning pizza oven
and huge antipasto table. The pizzas are large, as is traditional, but you can share. Host Tiziano
is an old friend of mine. He speaks English and is charming.
They have tables outside in nice weather.
Via Fiorentina, 73 | 0577/741084
Radda in Chianti is another lovely hill town, with a pedestrian historic center. Don’t miss
walking through the tunnel in town. There is a lovely wine tasting room down there.
My secret place is actually up in the hills outside of Radda and it’s worth the drive. The winery
La Volpaia is a whole village and there are two lovely places to eat there run by the Barucci
family.
This state-of-the-art winery is hidden in the village. Roofs were removed to lower in the
equipment, and the tubes for transferring the wine are under the roads. They make great wine,
olive oil, and fabulous infused vinegars. To tour you must make reservations, but there is also a
tasting room and shop.
This tiny hamlet was bought by a man as a hunting lodge, and then he gave it to his daughter as
a wedding present. She restored the village with love and developed the winery. There are
rental apartments on the back side of the village with a pool. It is a little bit of the dream!
La Volpaia (Radda in Chianti) | +39 0577/738-066
Bar-Ucci
The bar in the main piazza is run by my friend Paola, who has a passion for life. Stop by and
say, “Ciao!”
0577/738-042
La Bottega
Paola’s sister Carla runs the restaurant with both indoor and outdoor dining and a full menu.
Mamma Gina helps out at both places!
Next to the Church in the Piazza | 0577/738-001
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Nobody “talks Tuscany” to the English-speaking world with more authority than Judy Witts.
Here is what Mara Jernigan, President of Slow Food Canada, has to say about her: “When it
comes to a culinary knowledge of Tuscany, and Florence in particular, no one knows more than
Judy Witts. From her market tours and classes to her restaurant recommendations, her depth of
knowledge, mastery of the Italian language and connections to local people will open doors and
help you to understand the real culture of Tuscany. I simply can't visit the region without calling
her and highly recommend her to all my guests and friends that spend time in Florence!”
If you want even more of Judy’s suggestions, you can find her app on the iTunes store.
Visit her on her blog at http://www.divinacucina.com/
Or connect through Social Media:
Twitter: @divinacucina
About Me: Divina Cucina
Facebook: Judy Francini
Instagram: Divina Cucina
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VENICE WITH MONICA CESARATO
Venice has gotten some bad press when it comes to
restaurants and food in general. This is unfortunate
because, like all regions of Italy, the food traditions are
an important element of the overall history and culture of
this iconic city. Not surprisingly, Venice—the Queen of
the Adriatic—has a particular affinity for seafood
ingredients. But its cuisine is certainly not limited to fish.
Fegato alla veneziana (liver) is one of the most famous
dishes from this region, and fresh vegetables are also
found in abundance.
So why is it so hard to find a good place to eat in Venice? Part of the issue might be caused by
the surge of tourists every day, many of whom are only in town for a few hours while their cruise
ship is docked nearby. Consequently, they only have a short time for lunch and very little
guidance in helping them find authentic Venetian food. Perhaps more than anywhere else in
Italy, it helps to have some insider knowledge in Venice when it comes to finding the best food
treasures and traditional Venetian cuisine.
Monica Cesarato is a local Venetian resident who runs a B&B in Oriago di Mira, near Venice. She
also conducts Venetian cooking classes and offers food tours of Venice, as well. Below she offers
her suggestions of how to enjoy Venice like a true Venetian, which is all about the Venetian
tradition of cicchetti and Spritz.
Here’s Monica’s advice on how to find the best of La Serenissima:
If you are planning to come to Venice, you cannot miss the opportunity to try true Venetian
cooking and drinks in the same way locals do. And the best way to do it is to go on a tour of the
different local wine places called “bacari.” At these typical Venetian bars, you will be able to
sample the famous “cicchetti.” The cicchetti in Venice are delicious small bites, similar to the
Spanish tapas, which can be eaten standing up or sitting down and which must be accompanied
by the ever-present glass of good local wine at the right temperature.
The variety of ingredients that characterizes these
dishes makes them suitable for all occasions, both for
the finest palates and for those who dare to experiment
with traditional and modern flavors and alternative
twists. You will have them as an aperitif just before
lunch or dinner, together with a drink. This drink,
according to the good tradition, must be based on
Venetian Spritz or Bellini, or accompanied by an
“ombra,” which is a glass of local house wine.
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The typical cicchetti can consist of half egg with anchovies, salame with polenta, fried crab
claws, fried vegetables, octopus with polenta, and crab balls. The highlight is the famous
baccalà mantecato (creamy cod fish). The Venetian appetizer for excellence, the one you
absolutely cannot miss, consists of the “sarde in saor” (sweet and sour sardines), one of the
oldest recipes, which is made with sardines marinated in vinegar and onion and then flavored
with pine nuts and raisins.
Where to try Cicchetti and Spritz
These are my personal recommendation for trying some original and traditional cicchetti and
Spritz:
Osteria Al Timon
Fondamenta degli Ormesini, Cannaregio 2754 | +39 041 524
6066 ‎
Hours: Mon – Tue: 11:00-01:00
Sun: 11:00-01:00
Wed: 18:00-01:00 Thu –
Located just at the back of the old Jewish Ghetto, Al Timon is
one of the few remaining true inns in the city. Step inside
and you'll be taken back in time, with old wooden beams and
wooden tables and wine bottles lining the walls everywhere.
With only 30 seats inside, it's always pretty packed, so grab
your food and drinks and walk outside. You can sit down at
the few tables that are usually placed by the edge of the
water or stand up by the canal just like the locals do.
Aziende Agricole – Enoteca da Roberto
Rio Terà Farsetti, Cannaregio 1847 | +39 333 3458811
Hours: Mon – Sat: 9:00-14:00
16.00:24.00 (Closed Sundays)
Located just outside the Ghetto since 1950, in this small bar just a block off Rio Terà San
Leonardo, locals perch their cicchetti on the narrow wood counter along the back wall and chat
about the latest football match, politics and neighborhood gossip. Behind the glass-enclosed
counter, Roberto and his sister offer a wide range of local cheeses with sauces, goose breasts
with figs, lard and honey, as well as traditional cicchetti. Wash it all down with a glass of
Prosecco or the amazing fizzy red Raboso!
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El Sbarlefo
Salizada del Pistor, Cannaregio 4556/c | +39 0415233084
Hours: Mon – Sat: 9.00-14.00
16.00:24.00
Osteria El Sbarlefo is run by two friendly, lovely young men, Andrea and Alessandro, and it’s
fairly new (it opened in 2010). It's located a stone's throw from Campo SS. Apostoli, at the end of
Strada Nova. It's a very small bar (there are only 4-5 high stools to sit on inside) but at the same
time it's also very cozy. Grab your food and take a sit outside, enjoy the hustle and bustle of the
city, the continuous stream of locals going around on their daily errands or simply heading home
for lunch or dinner.
Vineria All'Amarone
San Polo 1131| +39 0415231184
Hours: Mon – Sun: 10.00 – 23.00, closed Wednesdays
In the heart of Venice, a few steps from Rialto, just off
San Silvestro water bus stop, you will find one of the best
wine places in the city. Vineria all'Amarone is run by the
famous Venetian restaurateur Alfredo Depietri. Here you
will be able to taste a fine selection of wines from small
Italian wineries. Come in, stand up by the counter or sit
down at one of the rustic wooden tables, and let yourself
be wrapped by Venetian life, taste the best wines, and
perhaps be accompanied by some typical cicchetti.
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Special restaurants in Venice:
If you’re extending your stay in Venice and would like have a special dinner one night, Monica
suggests these two places.
Vini da Gigio
Cannaregio 3628 a | +39 041 5285140
Closed on Monday and Tuesday
The restaurant represents an evolution from the traditional “Bacaro” to a high-end restaurant.
The atmosphere evokes an old warm tavern, with tastes of an ancient era. At the same time,
the owners’ skills and the quality of service suggests a certain degree of elegance.
Vini da Gigio introduces you to the true Venetian style of cooking and presents traditional
recipes and ancient tastes to its guests. All food is fresh, bought the very same morning at the
Rialto Market, ensuring that quality and authenticity of the flavors are preserved.
The owners personally create all dishes, including the selection of daily ingredients. For this
reason, the menu can vary because the presentation of the dishes depends on seasonal
availability.
Corte Sconta
Calle del Pestrin, 3886, 30122 Castello | +39 041 522 7024
Hours: Saturday 12:30–2:00 pm, 7:00–9:30 pm
The Corte Sconta has made its mark on the Venetian restaurant scene. Quality and freshness are
ensured by using strictly seasonal products, attentively served in a space more geared to
function than form.
Try the antipasti, which include clams with ginger, with gorgonzola or just on their own. Of
course there’s the traditional baccalà mantecato and sardines in saor. Enjoy the delicate
pastas, homemade daily, combined with the freshest seafood and vegetable ingredients. Try the
black spaghetti with scallops and asparagus tips!
Of course there’s an abundance of freshly caught fish and a varied assortment of authentic
desserts. The wine list has been carefully chosen and the prices are quite reasonable.
Accompanied by a wine chosen from our interesting wine list, with limited mark-up, the entire
meal will offer you a pleasant memory and another reason to come back to Venice.
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When not running her B&B, Monica Cesarato gives cooking lessons on traditional Venetian cuisine
and leads food tours through the maze of Venice’s calle where her students learn not only about
the food, but they also discover Venice’s everyday life, and about Venetian people and their
culture. She’s also a qualified language teacher with 20 years of experience. Married to an
Englishman, she lived for 10 years in England, where she taught Italian.
Please visit her on her blog: Life in Venice
Check out her B&B: Faronhof B&B
Or join her for cooking classes: Cook in Venice
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IN CONCLUSIONE
In Italy, the food says a lot. Beyond the obvious pleasures, it speaks of a place—of its history and
of its people. You can learn a great deal about a given city or region by understanding the food
traditions that are part of the cultural heritage. Don’t assume that it’s “just food.” No, it’s
more than that. It’s part of the family.
I hope that you have found this whirlwind tour of Italy’s best foodie destinations both
informative and enjoyable. When planning your trip, you’d be well-advised to contact these
knowledgeable folks in advance to book a tasting tour or a cooking class. Or if nothing else, visit
their blogs or download one of their apps. To make the most out of your Italian experience, you
should start by appreciating the things that are most important to the Italians themselves. And
yes, of course, that starts with the food.
So once again, a big GRAZIE to all those who contributed to this humble effort. Ciao!
Eleonora Baldwin in Rome: http://www.aglioolioepeperoncino.com/
Gillian McGuire on the Amalfi Coast: http://gillianslists.com
Judy Witt in Florence and Tuscany: http://www.divinacucina.com/
Monica Cesarato in Venice: http://www.monicacesarato.com/blog/
Edited by Rick Zullo
http://rickzullo.com
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Our Favorite Restaurants in Italy

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