CAPELIN SEASON IN AKRANES
Transcription
CAPELIN SEASON IN AKRANES
Issue 4 April 2015 HB Grandi Newsletter Gunnar Hermannsson, Elín Káradóttir and Jón Helgason. CAPELIN SEASON IN AKRANES With the new year comes the annual capelin season. This year, fishing commenced on 8 January and finished on 26 March. HB Grandi’s capelin roe processing operations, which take place in Akranes and Vopnafjörður, began with gusto in late February. The capelin season is a lively affair, with workers in Akranes working 12 and 16-hour shifts. This report focuses on processing operations there. When we arrived in Akranes on 20 March, the season was drawing to a close. Roe processing was still in full swing, however, and spirits were high. We met Gunnar Hermannsson at his office in “Heimaskagahúsið”, where processing can be observed through a large window. When asked about his role in all of this, he became rather evasive, replying that he is a kind of “all-round” worker during the season, although his colleagues insist that he is the one who drives the whole operation. This is not a typical office. It has room for many workers and there is small coffee corner. We sit there for just under an hour and the place is bustling with activity. There is no time for an actual interview about the capelin, but we are allowed to write down anything that we feel is fit to publish. Arnar Eysteinsson, sheep farmer in Gilsfjörður in Dalasýsla, enters the room. He has worked here the last few capelin seasons. Every year, he leaves his farm to manage the work of contractors during the weeks of roe processing. About half of the workers during the season are contractors like him, mostly from the surrounding area; a total of 50 people. Arnar Eysteisson 2 3 The capelin is pumped into the sorting area (1) where males and females are separated. The females are then pumped into a chute where the roe is seperated from the entrails. The roe is then washed, cleaned and drained (2). The males and entrails are used for fish meal. The roe is then packed in 7.5 kg bags and frozen in blocks (3). The office is lively. People come and go, evaluate the colour of the roe, as it can be different depending on what the capelin feed on at any given time, and debate whether the capelin has migrated along its traditional route around the country or whether there was a westerly route this year, i.e. that the capelin came from the north, from the Westfjords. Gunnar maintains that it migrated along the southern shore this year, as the colour of the roe is similar to what it has been for the last few years. This is an ever-popular subject for discussion with no concrete conclusion. Nobody can tell for sure. February. According to Gunnar, the prospects are very bright. The fishing is going well despite the bad weather and it looks like the season will be very good indeed. The roe is sold all over the world: to Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Russia and Belarus. However, Vignir G. Jónsson, HB Grandi’s subsidiary, is the largest buyer. Approximately 600 tonnes of roe have been reserved for Vignir. Vignir’s main markets are the U.S.A. and Europe. There are not only workers in the office. Customers also keep watch 24 hours a day. This morning it was a Japanese man who was walking in and out of the processing plant with roe samples. Jón Helgason also played host to a rabbi from Israel, who was making a quality inspection. “We’re still working at full speed and probably will continue to do so for several days. There are 100 of us working in capelin processing, day and night. We haven’t stopped since we began packing, for nine days and nights. The shifts could not be longer!” says Gunnar. “There are 12-hour shifts and we also have 16-hour shifts. Around 50 workers are HB Grandi employees and there is a similar number of contractors who stay in accommodation here in town.” This year, roe processing commenced on 24 “Yes, people are prepared to work hard during the season. I remember one year when I bought all the beds in Rúmfatalagerinn. Three people took turns sleeping in them in each 24-hour period. They were a great buy! That same year, I rented a hotel in town for customers. I arrived with many people late one night and tried making the beds for everyone, although I couldn’t see anything in the dark. The next morning we realised that they had all slept on silk tablecloths!” recalls Jón Helgason with a hearty laugh. Despite the lively conversation, there is little time to hang around and chat. Gunnar leads us through the processing plant and explains how everything works. The processing is well organised, from the moment that the ship comes to port until the roe has been packed. The cleaning equipment is highly efficient, delivering clean roe that is ready to be packed. According to Gunnar, the equipment has undergone many improvements recently, so quality is very high. Valný Benediktsdóttir. “Spirits are very high during the season. The atmosphere is usually pleasant, but it always special when the capelin starts coming in. Everyone works hard and stays up late, so people are merry. Loud laughter can often be heard here in the cafeteria!” Valný arrives at 7am and leaves again at 7pm, when another woman arrives to take the other 12-hour shift. We complete our tour in the cafeteria, where Valný Benediktsdóttir greets us with a smile. Valný is a familiar figure to most. She runs the canteen at HB Grandi’s fish processing plant in Akranes. During the season, she works 12-hour shifts at the cafeteria in Heimaskagahúsið, where she feeds the tired workers. The cafeteria has many things to offer those in need of energy to fuel their hard work. With a laugh, Valný points to ionised water (supposedly the cure for all ills), fruit bowls, bread and the lasagne that is today’s lunch. In the afternoon, she plans to fry round dougnuts known as “love balls” for the gang. “There were no love affairs during this season, so the least I can do is make love balls,” she explains with a twinkle in her eye. But why has she worked here for so long? “The atmosphere here has always been good and this a good place to work. Working in a freezing plant has both advantages and drawbacks, as is the case with most other jobs. It’s good to not have to worry that your tasks won’t be carried out if you or your child falls ill and it’s easy to get time off from work if needed,” says Valný. “Valný began working for Haraldur BöðvarWhat do you do at the close of the season? sson when she was 17 and has worked for the “Something fun! Last time, we took a bus to company almost non-stop ever since. “When Loðnuveiði HB for Granda 2011-2015 Dalasýsla authentic rural festivities. We’ll I began, the capelin was processed in the see what we do this year.” freezing plant. It was carried inside in trays 120.000 107.000 and poured onto the tables, where100.000 we would HB GRANDI CATCH 86.150 sort the males from the females by hand. 80.000 Magn [tonn] Magn [tonn] 2011-2015 63.332 Back then, the roe was packed directly from61.066 OF CAPELIN Loðnuveiði HB Granda 2011-2015 Amount (tons) Catch[Tonn] (tons) Veiði the tubs. The tubs had a rack that 60.000 was used 120.000 to drain the roe. This is completely40.000 different 107.000 23.937 now, as production has greatly increased,” 100.000 86.150 20.000 says Valný. She began filling in at the canteen 80.000 in 2004 and became a full-time employee 0 63.332 61.066 2012 2013 2014 2015 there in 2009. She tells us that she is very2011 60.000 interested in food and enjoys her work in 40.000 23.937 the canteen tremendously. Before that, 20.000 she usually worked in the processing plant, packing cod nape fillets and roes during the 0 capelin season. 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 CAPELIN The capelin is a small pelagic fish that travels in schools in the Northern Hemisphere. The Icelandic capelin is a highly important link in the ecosystem of the oceans surrounding Iceland, as it is an important food source for species such as cod, saithe and whales who prey on the capelin during its migration. In the summer, the capelin dwells in the cold waters of the Arctic Ocean before migrating towards Iceland in the autumn. The capelin form schools east of the country before migrating clockwise along the southern coast and spawning south and west of the country. On rare occasions, some capelin migrate counter-clockwise to the west. Capelin is caught from January to March, during the spawning migration. The Marine Research Institute measures the population size regularly every year, but the final estimate can not be made until the schools are becoming more dense, right around when the fishing starts. Consequently, the total catch is often not decided until the middle of the season, which is usually not Veiðicase [Tonn]with species with a longer lifespan the who dwell permanently within the Icelandic continental shelf. Capelin is used for meal and oil while some are frozen whole for roe processing during the latter half of the season. Source: Hjálmar Vilhjálmsson. Loðna – göngur, veiðar, rannsóknir. CAPELIN SEASON 2015 Photo: Fanney Þ. Vignir employees during Þúfa’s visit last autumn. CAPELIN ROE BECOMES MASAGO As mentioned, Vignir G. Jónsson has reserved approximately 600 tonnes of capelin roe this season and is HB Grandi’s single largest capelin roe buyer. Most of this is used for masago, but capelin caviar is also produced. Masago is in sushi and other Japanese dishes. The roes are desalinated in fresh water, coloured and mixed with selected spices. Masago is usually orange-coloured. Vignir also produces tobiko, which is similar to masago except that tobiko is produces from flying fish roe. Like masago, tobiko is usually orange although both products are available in other colours, such as green, blue and red. The colour depends on the spices and colouring mixed with the roes. Tobiko is more brittle and the flying fish roe is larger than capelin roe. The masago is sold to the USA and Europe. Norðanfiskur gets a small portion, which is sold to Icelandic restaurants. HB Grandi’s total allowable catch quota for capelin this season was 72,624 tons but only 63,332 tons were caught. Honestly it can be said that the season was quite unusual. In mid February capelin was being caught in North of Skagaströnd but normally at this time it is caught in the East of the country. Storms hit us from the beginning of the season until the very end which made it hard for the ships to fish. Even though it was not possible to catch all the TAC this season, land production of the catch went really well. Larger portion was used for fish meal and oil because of high prices and uncertainty in the frozen wholeround market. On the other hand the roe season went really well and production records were set in both processing plants. This season the production reached 4,500 tons of capelin roe compared to about 2,000 tons production in 2013 and 2014. Because of low production in the last years, the command today is high for capelin roe and future prospects are good. VIGNIR G. JÓNSSON Vignir G. Jónsson is a family-run company, founded in England in 1970. Throughout the years, the company has become renowned for its high-quality roe products. HB Grandi acquired Vignir G. Jónsson in 2013 and the company is now operated as HB Grandi’s subsidiary. The company specialises in products made from roe from lumpfish, capelin, flying fish, cod, haddock, ling, saithe and salmon. Development work is a major factor in the company’s operations, and the company has good facilities for final processing. Vignir has approximately 45 employees and is located in Akranes. Approximately 1,500 tonnes of roe products are produced every year and sold in 15 European and North-American countries. Photo: Shutterstock CALIFORNIA ROLL The California roll is one of the most popular sushi rolls, made inside-out with the rice facing out. The roll contains delicacies such as cucumber, crab meat and avocado. The roll is then sprinkled with masago for decoration. The California roll was invented in Los Angeles circa 1960 and was intended to introduce sushi to Americans. The venture was a success and it is now the USA’s most popular sushi roll. ÞÚFA HB GRANDI NEWSLETTER Guarantor: Vilhjálmur Vilhjálmsson Editor: Björg Torfadóttir Design/layout: Fanney Þórðardóttir Photos: Kristján Maack E-mail: [email protected]