Untitled - Exit109
Transcription
Untitled - Exit109
Copyright 2010 by the publishers and authors (the members of the Foodwine E-mail Discussion Group) Printed by Rose Printing, 12 Ontario Street, Orillia, Ontario, Canada L3V 6H1 ABOUT THIS BOOK · iv IN MEMORIAM · v THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS · 1 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGE · 39 BREADS & BREAKFAST · 65 SOUPS · 85 SALADS · 107 FISH & SEAFOOD · 125 POULTRY · 141 MEAT · 157 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS · 189 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES · 201 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES · 217 SAUCES · 245 COOKIES & BARS · 255 DESSERTS · 261 INDEX · 283 ABOUT THIS BOOK Welcome to the second Cyberfeasts & Foodstocks Cookbook, with recipes and tips from members of the International Foodwine E-Mail Discussion List, and a lot of our favorite recipes, instruction, and wisdom from a beloved original member of the group, Bob Pastorio, to whom we dedicate this book. Bob died in 2007, early in the book’s planning stages; Sheila Foster, another member whose name you’ll see on these pages, died last year and is also missed. List members nominated the recipes from old favorites we did not include in our first book, and newer favorites we’ve enjoyed since the first book appeared. Each recipe was tested by one or more members, whose notes provided valuable tweaks and serving suggestions, and whose feedback and witty signoffs you’ll see following many of the recipes. Several list members worked hard to turn these recipes into a book. Maryellen Casey again gave us a great online recipe testing site. Lyn Belisle’s beautiful covers and chapter opening pages enhance the look of our endeavor. Maggie Johnson (a.k.a. Conan the Librarian) compiled the index. We also thank nonlist member Harry McCracken for once again contributing the chef’s hat tip art. Editor-in-Chief: Tina L. Vierra Editor and Layout Wizard: Denny Arar We thank the following contributors, editors, sponsors, and workers, without whom our book could not be written, printed, and published. Christine Babcock Blake Olson Sandra Beatie Terry Pogue Lucia Casaravilla Joanne Schweik Matthew Hill Cynthia Wenslow Kathy Dell-Kukawsky Dan “The Scarlet Wombat” iv IN MEMORIAM The International Foodwine Discussion List is a community; a group of people with whom you can share your passions and cooking problems, rejoice and mourn. Never was this last more evident than when, as we began assembling this cookbook, we learned that we were going to lose our mentor and friend, Bob Pastorio, before we would complete the work. Bob was a chef, restaurateur, food columnist, radio host, devoted father, outstanding writer, and incorrigible raconteur. One of the earliest members of the Foodwine list, he was also one of its most vocal. We could depend on his ‘voice’ appearing in our Inbox several times a day. We missed that voice the instant he fell ill and stopped posting, and we miss it to this day. Bob knew everything about food—there was nothing we couldn’t ask—and was beyond generous with his time and advice, tips and recipes, instruction and wisdom. This book is full of Bob’s voice, and we have included the best of his wisdom in its pages. To celebrate Bob’s contributions to our community, and the impact he had on our lives, we offer some of the words members wrote when we lost our friend. “I didn’t expect my husband (not an Internet user) to understand why I’ve been down since reading the news about Bob—after all we never met, except on screen. I guess I’d forgotten how many times I’d read Bob’s hints and recipes and put them into practice, announcing at meal time that this or that was from Pastorio, but Mike didn’t. He recognized the name immediately as the guy who ‘showed’ me the right way to make Cream of Anything Soup. Bob was a part of my family’s table, and I will miss that.”—Barbara Leckstein “Bob and I exchanged email gags now and then. On thinking about his legacies, and all the people whose lives he touched, I recalled an old chestnut, a long-winded joke about all of the people Bob knew and how far his influence extended. The joke ends with Bob at the Vatican, chatting with the Pope on his viewing balcony. A man in the crowd below asks the boy next to him who the man on the balcony is. The kid replies, ‘I’m not sure who the guy with the hat is, but the other one is Pastorio.’”—Diane in Chicago v IN MEMORIAM “I recently printed out the recipe Bob’s daughter developed, which he posted some months ago. We have all, along with all the rest of Bob’s legacy to us on the list, followed Carla’s culinary development with great pleasure. Reading that recipe again brought on the tears as I thought of Bob. The recipe is definitely in his voice and is definitely vintage Pastorio. Not to be too sentimental or sappy (but why not in such situations?), we are all going to miss him and his presence among us.”—Joanne Schweik “It can be difficult to know what to say. Does one offer heartfelt compassion to the family? Yes. Does one tell Bob that he has made us laugh, cry, cook better, and enjoy life a little more? You bet! Does one say that where there is life, there’s hope? That, too.”—Dan, the Scarlet Wombat There were many, many more words, of course; news of Bob’s illness spread to all of his contacts in groups and on the Internet. Most of them can be found, if you are interested in learning more about this marvelous man, through links and comments on the journal page his wife started for us and for him, when he fell ill. The url is http://bobs-amanuensis.livejournal.com/. We hope you enjoy our small bit of his legacy, contained in these pages. As Bob would have said, “No, seriously…” The International Foodwine Discussion Group October, 2010 vi vi IN MEMORIAM And special notes from two of our core members who knew him best: Some of us in the FoodWine group met as many as 15 years ago on the Internet to share our love for food, wine, and cooking. Many of us have met in person at what we have dubbed FoodStocks. Some are professional chefs, while most are very good home cooks. We are all striving to learn and improve, and in doing so we help each other. It’s hard to describe the fondness we have for each other, unlike any other groups on the Internet ... at least any I know of. Our heartbeat was Bob Pastorio. He was a chef, teacher, writer, and restaurateur. The person we went to with any food or food safety question, the one who inspired some to continue or start Culinary School, the defender who always stuck up for the regular members. He shared his newspaper column with us, and many, many recipes. He was a regular in our Cyberfeasts Podcasts. Bob passed away in the spring of 2007, and we all miss him terribly. It was such a shock to the group, and it took us awhile to recover but we have, and our active group is still talking, sharing recipes and tips, asking questions, and reporting back to the group our successes and failures. This second Cyberfeasts and FoodStocks Cookbook was started not long before Bob became ill. He contributed many recipes to the book. We hope you look for his name, enjoy his humor, and try his recipes. He was always the teacher, and he would have enjoyed that. —Terry Pogue vii IN MEMORIAM Knowing Bob Pastorio was one of the little joys that make life better. His knowledge of – among other things – food, and his skill at and pleasure in sharing these, as well as his humour, enriched all of us on Foodwine. They all come together in his great line “It’s not world peace; it’s only lunch.” I once had the pleasure of chatting in Bob’s kitchen while he made lunch, and later sitting in on one of his cooking classes. Was there really a worldwide shortage of olives, or did he just forget them? His students didn’t care. They learned as they laughed, or vice versa. So did all of us on Foodwine. Bob became our kitchen guru. He did have some fixed opinions—who else would become vociferous about what should or should not be called a Napoleon? More characteristic was his generous provision of solutions, often multiple, to the cooking problems we addressed to Foodwine. Or his frequent advice, as on salted versus unsalted butter, or sweet versus common onions—in both cases, once cooked they taste the same. But “don’t sweat it; it’s cooking, not rocket science.” It is a wonder he had time to write so much to Foodwine, in between encyclopedia articles on food songs and poetry, or a novel (unpublished), or his weekly radio show, much less his contributions to other net venues on bonsai and still other passions. We can only rejoice that he did. Good night, sweet Chef. —Matthew Hill viii viii the PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANYTHING RISOTTO Bob Pastorio taught many of us how to make risotto with these instructions. Risotto is a northern Italian approach to cooking rice. Reduced to its minimum, it’s a starchy medium-grain rice cooked over medium-high heat, constantly stirred with frequent additions of stock to result in a soupy finished consistency. It’s customarily flavored with a very wide range of additions. Sometimes basic risotto is flavored and colored with a few strands of saffron infused in maybe ½ cup of stock and added near the end. BASIC RISOTTO 5 cups chicken stock (approximately) 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 tablespoons (½ stick) butter 2 shallots, minced Couple pinches of salt ½ cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 1½ cups arborio rice Bring the chicken stock to a simmer in one pot and hold it there. Put the oil, butter and salt into a large, deep-sided saucepan and cook the shallots over medium-high heat until soft, maybe 3 minutes. Add the rice and stir to coat with the buttery oil. Cook for about 2 minutes until shiny and translucent. Add a ladleful - about ½ cup - of hot stock, stirring to distribute evenly. When the rice has absorbed most of it, add another ladleful, stirring as before. Repeat this until the rice is almost tender, with a slight firmness at the center. The rice should have a thin layer of stock over it all the while it’s cooking. The process will take 16 to 18 minutes and should result in a creamy, moist consistency. When done, remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Cover and let stand for a minute or two, and serve. Pass additional cheese at table. 2 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS LEMON RISOTTO (RISOTTO AL LIMONE) To the basic ingredients, add: Sprig of fresh mint Sprig of rosemary Sprig of sage Grated zest of a lemon 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Prepare risotto as above, adding additional ingredients to the rice pan immediately upon removing from heat. Stir to combine, cover, and let stand for a few minutes. Serve. PORT RISOTTO (RISOTTO DEL PORTO) To the basic ingredients, add: 2 tablespoons olive oil Meat of 1 pound mussels, cleaned and cooked ½ pound squid, cleaned and cut into strips lengthwise Small bunch parsley, coarsely minced 1 clove garlic, minced 1 green pepper, coarsely chopped ½ pound tomatoes, chopped Fish or seafood stock can be substituted for chicken stock, if available Prepare rice as above. Meanwhile, heat oil in a skillet and add all but the tomatoes to sauté until lightly brown. Then add tomatoes and cook over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes. Combine with risotto. Remove from heat, cover for 5 minutes or so, and serve. 3 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS RISOTTO WITH FOUR CHEESES (RISOTTO AI QUATTRO FORMAGGI) To the basic ingredients, add: 4 ounces Gorgonzola cheese 4 ounces mozzarella cheese 4 ounces Fontina cheese 1 cup lukewarm milk 30 to 35 shelled pistachio nuts Reduce broth to 3 ½ cups. Begin preparing the basic risotto as above. Meanwhile, cut the three cheeses into small cubes less than ½-inch square. Put the cheeses into a non-reactive bowl and add milk. Blanch the nuts in boiling water for a minute or two and rub off the skins. When all the broth has been absorbed, add the milk and cheeses to the pan, continuing to stir until cheeses and rice are well combined. Add nuts and Parmesan cheese, taste for salt and pepper and serve. Janet Morrissey formally tested this recipe for our cookbook, though many, many Foodwinos have made Bob’s risotto over the years. “As with anything from Pastorio,” she said, “the basics are here with some great variations. And, most importantly, you are invited to learn the basics and then run with them.” Here’s to vices...he says as he lifts a double single malt... Posted by Dan, the Scarlet Wombat 4 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS PANZANELLA, AMERICAN-STYLE Bread is central to the Italian table—good crusty bread with a delicately white center. So are fresh vegetables, vinegar, oil, herbs, tomatoes. Let’s look at a very simple beginning and then we’ll talk about complicating it. You have to understand that there’s no real recipe for this. Change the balance of ingredients to suit yourself. And, by the way, this is wonderful picnic food. It won’t work as well with American-style supermarket bread. That becomes soggy much too quickly. Slightly stale Italian bread will retain some good texture even when moistened. Maybe ½-inch or ¾-inch thick slices. Traditional Italian panzanella breaks up the bread and uses it as an ingredient in a tossed salad. This is an adaptation my grandparents made nearly a century ago, of their old country classic. BASIC AMERICAN PANZANELLA Serves 4-8 8 ounces (half a loaf) firm Italian bread, cut into slices 2 ripe tomatoes, sliced 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 1 medium cucumber, peeled and sliced 1 cup cheese, sliced or shredded (fresh mozzarella, cheddar, feta and/or blue) 2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped 1 head butter lettuce, shredded (or Boston, red leaf or anything but iceberg) 12 fresh basil leaves A few sprigs of thyme Up to ½ cup red wine vinegar ½ to ¾ cup olive oil ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese 5 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Lay out bread slices to form a single layer in the bottom of a rounded bowl. Top that with slices of tomato, then add onion and cucumber. Scatter some celery around. Scatter some lettuce. Cheese. Trickle a little of the vinegar and oil over the top. Add a layer of bread slices. Scatter basil and thyme leaves. Add tomatoes and repeat with as many layers as the materials permit. Trickle remaining vinegar over top. A good finish is to cover the salad with slices of bread. Cover with plastic wrap and press down to compress the salad. A plate or small tray is good. Put a weight on it and let it sit for an hour or so. Invert out onto a platter or tray, sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese and cut into wedges. A simplified version could be done by cutting all the ingredients into even-sized cubes and tossing together. It doesn’t look anywhere near as pretty, but it eats well enough. Put everything in a large bowl and toss. Let sit for about ½ hour. Taste and see if it needs anything. Maybe more vinegar or more oil or a grating of pepper. Tip: if it’s not moist enough to suit you, add a bit of tomato juice. That’s all there is to the basic salad. Let’s look at variations that change the final effect but still preserve the same rustic spirit. The Bread: French bread will work well, or some of the newly available artisan breads. Cut it into cubes. Or, tear it roughly into chunks for a different visual approach. Strips. Thin slices. Croutons: Some people make croutons for this salad out of the breads they choose. Either of two ways: Cut the bread into cubes and toss it with melted butter or olive oil, to which you add a bit of seasoning: basil, garlic, oregano, thyme. Spread out on a tray and bake at 350°F until lightly browned. Or: Cut into cubes and deep fry in 365°F (or so) oil just until lightly browned. Let them cool and continue as in the recipe above. 6 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Tomatoes: Use the ripest, juiciest ones you can find. Roma and other plum tomatoes don’t have enough juice for my tastes. Mix the varieties. A good red one and a pretty yellow or orange one look nice together and offer different flavors. Things to add: Bell peppers, chopped or sliced—mix the colors for eye appeal. Fresh zucchini strips—just a few. Hot peppers for the venturesome. Olives—black, green or any combination of them. Mixed pickled vegetables— like the Italian giardiniera that’s in the supermarkets. A tablespoon of capers to give that marvelous salty-vinegar-herbal flavor. Fish: You can dress it up with some more substantial things. Add a can of good, oil-packed tuna that you’ve partially drained. Better yet would be to add some cold fish left over from dinner. Shrimp, scallops, leftover lobster. That last was a joke. Who ever heard of leftover lobster? Chicken: Chicken strips from last night’s roast chicken. Or from last night’s fried chicken. The breading will change the basic flavor of the salad and it will sing with the new seasonings. Other meats: Strips of roast beef or venison. Shreds of baked pork tenderloin. Leftover lamb chunks. I’m going to whisper this so the purists don’t hear it— pepperoni, salami, any kind of well-seasoned, cooked (or preserved) meats. This isn’t traditional, but it’s still in the spirit, don’t you think? And, oh, it’s pronounced pahn-zah-nel-lah. Dazzle your friends with the word and even more with the dish. Buon appetito, as they say in Italy. Tester Tina Vierra tried two of these variations and both worked beautifully. 7 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS CREAM OF ANYTHING SOUP 1 large onion, coarsely chopped 2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped 6 ounces (1½ sticks) butter 6 ounces (about 1½ cups) flour 1 gallon chicken stock 1 pound of anything* 1 pint heavy cream Sauté the onion and celery in butter in large saucepan or small stockpot until sweated. Add flour, stir in well and cook for about 5 minutes. Whisk in stock and simmer for 30 minutes, skimming occasionally. Add solids, return to boil, reduce heat to simmer for 20-30 minutes. Add cream and correct seasonings. Leave chunky, or puree with wand or countertop blender. Serve. *“Anything” can be sliced mushrooms, diced chicken or turkey, asparagus, green beans, broccoli, tomato pulp, cauliflower, artichoke hearts, shrimp, carrots, lobster, or whatever. You can also add rice or pasta to extend the recipe. And cheeses. Only the pure in heart can make a good soup. ~Ludwig Van Beethoven Posted by Tina V. 8 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANY NUT TRIPLE-NUT PIE Makes one 9-inch pie Crust: 1½ cup nuts, finely ground 3 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons butter, room temperature Filling: 1 cup dark corn syrup ½ cup sugar ¾ cup nut butter ½ teaspoons vanilla extract 3 eggs 1 cup lightly salted nuts, chopped Whipped cream to garnish (optional but desirable) Heat oven to 400°F, combine crust ingredients and mix well. Press into bottom and up the sides of pie plate. Bake for about 9 minutes and cool on wire rack. Combine corn syrup, sugar, nut butter and vanilla in the top of a double boiler, over boiling water. Stir often until hot (200°). Beat eggs and whisk about ¼ cup of nut-butter mixture into eggs to temper. Pour egg mixture into double boiler, whisking until thickened, about 10 minutes. Do not boil or eggs will curdle. Pour into pie shell, sprinkle with chopped nuts and chill for 4 hours. Serve with too much whipped cream on top and running down the sides. Bob’s notes: The idea is to fill a nut crust with any nut butter (creamy or crunchy) and top with chopped nuts. It works with any nuts (except black walnuts—too strongly flavored unless used very sparingly) or combinations of nuts. Think macadamia-cashew-hickory nut pie. Peanut-hazelnut-Brazil nut pie. Walnut-almond-sunflower seed pie. Or almond-almond-almond pie. 9 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANY FRUIT DESSERT SOUFFLÉ This will work with any berry—raspberry, strawberry, blueberry—and is an example of the type of soufflé made with purée instead of Béchamel sauce. Serve with a dusting of powdered sugar or the glaze below. Serves 6 if you’re lucky. Butter and sugar for the mold 2 cup ripe berries, mashed for the glaze ¾ cup preserves of the same berries ⅛ cup fruit brandy or cognac 6 egg whites ¾ cup sugar 2 cups very ripe berries for the soufflé Heat oven to 375°F. Butter and sugar the mold. Prepare the glaze: Mix mashed berries and preserves in saucepan over low heat; cover, bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir to mash the berries. Remove from heat; cool for 5 minutes. Add the brandy. In bowl of mixer, whip whites at medium speed until soft peaks form. Add sugar gradually while beating. Chop and crush 1⁄3 of soufflé berries, and add them with the remaining whole berries to the whites, gently folding them in. Pour into mold and bake for about 20 minutes or until puffed. Serve immediately. Variations: Substitute any soft fruit for the berries—e.g. mango, persimmon, peach or plum. Use a combination of fruit. Add a teaspoon of grated lemon, orange or grapefruit peel. Add 2 tablespoons cocoa powder to the soufflé. Bob’s note: I use a round, white, ceramic, high-sided, soufflé mold that says “20 cm” on the bottom. My ruler says it’s about 7¾ inches. 10 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANYTHING-INFUSED VINEGAR Our word “vinegar” comes from the French “vin aigre” or sour wine. Virtually every culture on earth uses vinegar as a flavoring (alone or blended with other flavors), as a preservative, or as a beverage. Adding the flavors is the simplest job in the kitchen. Combine the vinegar with the flavoring agents and wait a month. Want to shorten it to days? Stand the uncovered bottles of vinegar with their flavoring agents in a pan of hot water (180° or so) for an hour or two, then let them cool, cap them and wait about three days for the flavors to develop. Store in the dark. What flavors? How much to use? In which types of vinegar? What size bottles? Well, here’s some of what I have, in a wide selection of bottles, most of which hold 750 ml. As far as how much of the flavoring to use, I just put stuff into the bottles until I don’t think I should put any more. I find that three or four sprigs of fresh herbs is good. From one, up to a dozen cloves of garlic, but less if other flavors are to be emphasized. Peels of two citrus fruits. A cinnamon stick. Orange/white vinegar: Distilled vinegar with the peels of one or two oranges. Peel the orange with a vegetable peeler so none of the white gets into the vinegar. The white (or pith) is bitter. Great for fruit salads or molds. Lemon/white vinegar: Distilled vinegar with peel of two lemons. Does magic for oily fish like tuna or salmon. Two or three drops on ripe melon is a pleasant shock. Grapefruit/cider vinegar: Obviously citric but people look confused for a moment until they figure it out. Has a sharp edge that cuts through oiliness. Fresh tuna, salmon, or best, mackerel. Garlic/red wine vinegar: Five or six peeled cloves of garlic on a skewer in a tall-necked bottle. Very decorative that way. Or, one clove of elephant garlic in a large-mouth jar. Full, rich flavor and full scent. Mostly for salads, and only 11 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS with friends. Garlic/white wine is more subtle and somehow graceful, although not as bold as the red. Cinnamon/cider vinegar: I first tried a tablespoon of ground cinnamon. One of my aesthetically less successful efforts. Tastes good, looks bad. The vinegar ends up cloudy, and there’s a ring around the inside of the bottle at the top of the liquid. Now I use a large cinnamon stick and leave it on heat for about 3 hours. Surprising what a tablespoon in an apple pie does; toss with apple slices before putting into the shell. Good in a Waldorf salad. Peppercorn/cider vinegar: One of the best. A half-cup of whole, black peppercorns in the bottle. Open the bottle and smell the sweet, pure scent of fresh pepper. A few drops on a steak is terrific. Use it in a beurre blanc for meat. Add some to barbecue sauce or demi-glacé. Shallot/cider vinegar: Nasty tasting, stinky and an altogether, no-doubt-aboutit failure. Despite the clear facts, I keep hoping it’ll improve with age but so far the hope is vain. Ginger/cider vinegar: A good one. One good-sized hand (that’s what the full root is called) of fresh ginger, sliced thin and put into the vinegar for a week or so. Run it through a strainer before using to take the slices out. Use in fish poaching liquid. Makes a wonderful mayonnaise for tuna salad and the like. Anise/white vinegar: Anise seed tastes and smells like licorice. About ¼ cup of seeds. Good on fruit salads, white-fleshed fish, or strongly flavored vegetables like broccoli. Mint/white vinegar: A couple sprigs of fresh or ¼ cup of dried mint flakes— makes a highly aromatic vinegar. Nice on salads, especially if fruit is included. Add a few drops to marinade and/or gravy for lamb. Basil-garlic/cider vinegar: Superb as part of an oil and vinegar salad dressing or a blended vinaigrette for cooked vegetables such as broccoli, cauliflower or cabbage. Five basil leaves and three cloves garlic. 12 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Honey/cider vinegar: A quarter cup of honey—complete with tiny pieces of honeycomb. Very quiet touch of sweet and sour, and the very small waxy pieces of comb add a nicely puzzling texture note to salads and fruit compotes. Jalapeno/Anaheim/cayenne/habanero peppers/cider vinegar: One or two of each type of pepper in the bottle. Bites the tongue hard if you’re not careful. Judiciously used, this one makes marinades, salsa, mayonnaise, and salad dressings sing. The scent is rich and peppery, and it makes sauces sparkle. Bob treated my brother, Rich, and I to a lunch at the Beverly Cafe in Staunton, Virginia, several years ago. He also gave us a walking tour of the downtown, which he was obviously proud of. After the tour of Staunton, he gave Rich and I ten ornate bottles of infused oils and vinegars. =Mark 13 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS CLASSIC SAUCES 1 bunch flour 1 bunch milk 1 cup chicken or beef stock 1 cup dry white wine There are six basic sauce types, I say. Others classify from five to eight. The French call theirs “mother sauces” and either use them as is or add other ingredients to make compound or “small sauces.” The whole idea behind these sauces is to add a full richness of flavor to your food, and to save you work. That may seem amusing when you see how much time many of the recipes take, but it is true. Don’t confuse time spent simmering with work. You don’t have to do anything while it cooks. Once the bases are made, you can make a sauce for either a family dinner or the most formal party with no fuss or mess. These recipes are the bases of other sauces that you can tailor to the specific meal. Add sautéed onions, a little white wine and some Dijon mustard to the demi-glacé and you have Sauce Robert...THE pork sauce for centuries. It also works well with venison. Speaking of which, you can substitute venison for beef in the stock recipes. Combine some Béchamel sauce, Gruyére and Parmesan cheeses with a little heavy cream and unsalted butter for Mornay sauce. Coat chicken or fish with it before popping it under the broiler to be glazed. Too rich? Margarine can be substituted for butter as long as it’s understood that the flavor will differ. Use non-fat cheese instead of Gruyére and you’ve taken out most of the cholesterol and other saturated fats. It’s not the classic recipe, but recipes are not what good eating is about. We eat to nourish the body and we eat for pleasure and it behooves us to do it wisely. 14 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS These rich sauces aren’t for every day, but then neither is good crystal. The recipes below are modernized classics more in keeping with today’s kitchen and budget. It’s just as easy to make large batches of stocks and sauces as small ones. And they freeze beautifully in cup-sized portions for easy thawing. We’ll be taking a more liberal view of sauce cookery than the classic cuisines did, starting with some preliminary definitions. Bouquet garni: The aromatic ingredients of stocks, usually parsley or chervil, bay leaf, thyme, and clove. Used either tied in a tube of celery stalks or in small cheesecloth bags. Depouillage: Literally, stripping. Removal of all the fat and impurities from a stock or sauce. Fonds: Stocks–the French word for “foundations.” There are two types: fonds brun (brown) and fonds blanc (white). Fumet: Fonds blanc made from fish. Liaison: Literally, a bond. In classic French cuisine, any thickener. In modern cookery, the name of a process wherein some of the hot stock is mixed with the thickener to both dilute and warm it. The mixture is then whisked into the stock and the combination simmered. Most often used with egg, but will work with any thickener. Mirepoix or matignon: Basically equal quantities of celery, carrot, and onion, plus bay leaf and thyme. If left in large pieces, it’s called a mirepoix. If minced, a matignon. Also called the “aromatic ingredients.” Roux: The archaic French word for “red” that 200 years ago came to mean flour cooked long enough to change color. Equal weights flour and butter combined and cooked until a nutty odor can be detected. There are three basic types of roux. White roux is cooked long enough to get rid of the raw smell, but not long enough to change color. Blonde roux is slightly browned and brown 15 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS roux is cooked to a deep brown color, but not burned. The more a roux is a;, the less thickening power it has. In more modern usage, it has come to mean any fat with any starch. For those concerned with cholesterol, it means that other, less saturated fats than butter can be substituted and an lighter starches (corn starch, arrowroot, etc.) can be used as well. Velouté - literally, velvet. Smooth sauce made from fonds blanc. Some sauces require stocks as their bases. Let’s look at the types of stocks and how to make them. These are the roots of modern sauce making: 1. Brown sauces are made from a base of browned beef and/or veal bones and meat. They are simmered, skimmed, reduced and thickened with a brown roux. 2. White sauces (velouté) are made from a base made of veal and/or chicken or fish without browning or pre-cooking of any kind. Meats and bones are also simmered, skimmed, reduced and thickened with a blonde roux. 3. Béchamel (also called white sauce) is based on a white roux, milk or cream and flavorings. Sometimes made with veal stock. 4. Emulsified sauces are served either cold like mayonnaise or warm like Hollandaise, Béarnaise or beurre blanc. They are all based on one fact of physics - oils can be held emulsified by either egg yolk or acids, and do so in surprising quantity. One yolk will hold nearly a cup of oil, and two tablespoons of acid will hold as much as a pound and a half of butter. 5. Pureed sauces are based on vegetables, sometimes including stocks. The most common one is tomato sauce for pasta. Classic French cuisine doesn’t recognize this as a sauce type in its own right even though they use them in daily cooking. 6. Dessert and custard sauces aren’t a single type of sauce like those above. They are a small part of sauce cookery but demand techniques all their own. 16 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS 7. NOT true sauces: Gravy made from pan juices with the last-minute addition of flour. They lack the finished fullness of long-cooked sauces, but have their place in daily cuisine. Let’s make our stocks starting with basic brown stock, or fonds brun. GRAVY TACTICS 1 bunch flour; and/or 1 bunch corn starch 1 bunch pan juices Flour and corn flour (or cornstarch in the U.S.) will clump when they’re added to liquids that are hot enough to cause the starch to agglutinate (clot). If adding flour to hot fat with no water-based liquids (like meat juices) in it, just dump it in and whisk. It’ll mix in easily and forms a roux. If adding flour to a hot mixture of fat and juices, the flour needs to be mixed with something else cool first, whether fat or juice. Add and whisk and it’ll combine. For pan gravies that use the fat and juice residue of roasting, a slurry (water and flour) will work best. For making gravies from fat drippings like bacon or sausage fat, just mixing the flour with some room-temperature butter (called beurre manié in French) and whisking that in will work. Flour gives an opaque gravy. Cornstarches give a shiny, translucent, or even transparent gravy unless milk or cream is added. Using stock as the liquid to extend a gravy adds a huge flavor boost. Almost no matter what kind. Any kind of rich stock added to any basic gravy mixture will make a good gravy. 17 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS DECORATIVE PICKLED VEGETABLES 1 bunch cauliflower 1 bunch broccoli 1 bunch red peppers (sweet or hot) 1 bunch pearl onions 1 bunch baby carrots Dill heads, washed Onion slices, ½-inch thick Whole garlic cloves Carrots sliced lengthwise, optional for color Brine: 6 cups water 2 cups white vinegar, 4% to 6% acidity 1 ⁄3 cup canning salt, to retain firmness I also have sometimes included celery (strings removed), fennel bulb slices, sundried tomatoes, and already pickled things like mushrooms, artichoke hearts and olives. Usually put in a sprig of rosemary, some black peppercorns, a few fennel seeds and some strips of lemon zest. There is no quantity of vegetables given as this method may be used for several quarts or several dozen quarts of pickles. The amount of brine given is sufficient for about six quarts of pickles. Larger or smaller amounts of brine may be prepared, but be sure to keep the correct proportions of water, salt, and vinegar intact. Use pickling salt to retain firmness in the vegetables. Heat the brine in a large pot to boiling. Have water boiling in water bath canner. Wash and scrub the vegetables carefully. Cut everything to expose interior surfaces and to let the brine in. Place 1 or 2 garlic cloves, slice of onion, carrot, and head of dill into the bottom of a clean, hot quart-sized canning jar, then layer the rest of the vegetables as you wish. 18 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Place two-piece lids (lid and screw-band) in boiling water. Cover vegetables with hot brine to within ½ inch of the top of the jar. Wipe rim of jar. Place lid on jar and tightly screw on metal band by hand. Process jars in simmering water bath at 200°F to 205°F for 10 minutes. Count processing time from the point when water returns to simmer. Remove jars. Do not tighten screw bands. Set jars upright several inches apart on wire rack or wooden board to cool. I process longer than the suggested time, up to 20 minutes, just because it makes me feel better to overdo the safety aspects. Make 'em up for X-mas gifts maybe 2 weeks ahead of time. Arrange the stuff in pretty combinations inside the jars. Everyone is terribly impressed and you get good karma points. Oh, by the way—it all tastes good, too. The important thing is the rhythm. Always have rhythm in your shaking. Now a Manhattan you always shake to fox-trot time, a Bronx to two-step time, a dry martini you always shake to waltz time. ~Nick Charles, from the movie The Thin Man Posted by Rob Wells 19 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANY FRUIT CURD Start with lemon curd: ½ cup lemon juice ½ cup sugar 2 tablespoons butter zest of two lemons 3 egg yolks ½ ounce orange liqueur Put the juice, sugar and butter into a double boiler over, not in simmering water. Heat to about 180°F. Whip the yolks and make a liaison—take a couple tablespoons of the hot juice and whisk it into the eggs. Dump the egg mixture into the pan of warm juice and whisk to mix thoroughly. Stir often. It should thicken in a few minutes. Remove from heat, pour or spoon into a bowl and put into the refridgerator to cool and set. I must give away a small secret: put a dash of orange liqueur in there. Maybe a half-ounce or so. It will astonish you. Don't tell anyone… Pastorio Other fruit curds: ‘Member when I said I was making samples of several different curds and would like some feedback on them from my customers. And then I’d send them to you at my cost? ‘Member that? Funny thing. I’ve been selling everything I could make and in a couple flavors, am out of stock. Today, I made cases and cases of cranberry-orange curd (cranberry juice with chopped fresh navel and dried mineola oranges) and orange-cranberry (orange juice and chopped dried mineola oranges with chopped cranberries). 20 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS I’m producing 11 different flavors of curds and haven’t been able to stop production long enough to make the small bottles I wanted y’all to try. I think I’ll be out of the woods in a few weeks. Getting a new kitchen with considerably better production facilities. That should help. I’ll let you know. <pant pant> Editor’s note: Bob finally emerged from making and selling curds that year, with instructions on other flavors that we cannot find just now. Several list members have since made curds using his base recipe above, with various fruit juices and citrus zest combinations, and even different liqueurs when orange didn’t suit. Experiment for yourself and enjoy the possibilities! Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana. Posted by Diane Laux in Chicago 21 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS LOTS OF APPETIZERS Foodwine members have often discussed the value of keeping a well-stocked pantry or refrigerator with good, interesting ingredients. As Bob showed us here, if you keep some of these ingredients on hand, impressive appetizers at a moment’s notice are easy. 1 package fresh or frozen tortellini 2 ripe pears Lemons Avocados Fresh figs Fresh thyme Fresh lavender Fresh rosemary Fresh basil Fresh parsley Honey Pecans or other nuts Bocconcini (mozzarella balls) Brie cheese Parmesan cheese Gorgonzola cheese Cream cheese or mascarpone Prosciutto Smoked salmon Deli smoked turkey A baguette Mini tart shells Can or jar of olives Can or jar of dolmades (stuffed grape leaves) Jar of jalapeño jelly Jar of roasted red peppers Mayonnaise Fresh garlic Olive oil Cognac Here are a few quick items to consider when company drops by this weekend. These few super easy items are my fall back things to serve if I have unexpected cocktail company, or just for us. Tortellini Skewers with Lemon Parmesan Aioli: Cook fresh tortellini, then skewer, 2 to 3 per skewer. Serve with a dipping sauce of lemon Parmesan aioli (prepared mayo, lemon juice, lemon zest, a little minced garlic, and freshly grated Parmesan cheese whipped together). These can be tray passed or presented on a platter on a buffet. 22 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Warm Brie and Pear Tartlets: Fill purchased mini tart shells with a slice of brie and finely diced ripe pear. Sprinkle a little minced fresh thyme or lavender on each, and drizzle lightly with honey. Bake in a 375°F oven for 7 to 8 minutes, until the cheese is bubbling. Serve immediately. Skewered Bocconcini with Prosciutto: Start several hours before serving. Cut thick rosemary stems (stripped of leaves) into 3-inch lengths. Use the rosemary to skewer 1 to 2 bocconcini (fresh mozzarella balls). Wrap and set aside for 1 to 2 hours in the fridge. Cut very good prosciutto into strips. Arrange on a baking sheet in a single layer and drizzle with olive oil, dash of balsamic vinegar, and ground black pepper. Wrap and refrigerate for 1 to 2 hours before using. To serve, wrap each bocconcini with a marinated prosciutto strip. Warm Figs with Gorgonzola and Pecans: Cut ripe, fresh figs in half, dust lightly with sugar, place on a greased sheet pan and bake in at 400°F oven for about 7 minutes, until the sugar begins to color. Remove from the oven. Use the back of a spoon to press a hollow in the center of each half. Fill the hollow with crumbled Gorgonzola cheese and top with a pecan half. When ready to serve, return to 350°F oven for 5 minutes, until the cheese begins to melt. Serve immediately. Warm Figs with Prosciutto: I also cut fresh figs into either halves or quarters depending on size and wrap in prosciutto and either sauté till prosciutto is crisp or do under the broiler. These are always a hit. Smoked Salmon and Avocado Rosettes: Mash a ripe avocado with a squeeze of lemon juice, salt, and pepper and 1 to 2 tablespoons cream cheese or mascarpone. Set aside in the fridge. Cut very good smoked salmon into 4-by-1-inch strips. Cut firm dark bread, such as German rye, into small squares. Wrap each salmon strip around the end of your finger, then sit this roll, standing upright on the bread. Drop a spoon of avocado mousse in the middle and gently spread the edges of the salmon back to form a rosette. Garnish with a sprig of dill or a sprinkle of cumin seeds. 23 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Corn Muffins with Smoked Turkey and Jalapeño Jelly: Purchase mini corn muffins. Slice almost in half and spread one side generously with japapeño jelly and the other with softened butter. Fill with finely sliced smoked turkey breast and some watercress. Dolmades (Stuffed Grape Leaves): Drain purchased dolmades. Drizzle with fresh lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil. season with black pepper and minced cilantro, mint, or parsley; toss to coat. Garnish with roasted red peppers and pine nuts. Lemon Basil Crostini: Slice a baguette into very thin rounds. Dry out on a sheet pan in a 300°F oven for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a food processor, purée 2 tablespoons cream cheese, ¼ cup soft unsalted butter, 1 ⁄3 cup grated Parmesan cheese, ¼ cup fresh lemon juice, pinch lemon peel, pinch sugar, pinch granulated garlic, 1 tablespoon minced basil, and salt and white pepper to taste. Spread generously on baguette slices and bake in a 350°F oven about 10 minutes, until bubbling and crispy. Olivada on Focaccia or Baguette: In a food processor, purée 2 to 3 cups of plump, pitted black olives such as kalamata. When smooth, drizzle in 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil. Add a splash of Cognac and a generous amount of coarsely ground black pepper. Serve with sliced focaccia or baguette. To make warm, seasoned potato chips, take a bag of good grocery store potato chips and put them on a sheet pan. , into a 350°F oven for a few minutes until you see the oil appear. Take them out of the oven and put your own seasoning on them (Old Bay perhaps) while they are hot. Then when the oil is re-absorbed, the flavors sink in, too. ~Terry Pogue TT 24 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANYTHING QUICK BREAD 3 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 tablespoon cinnamon 3 large eggs 1 cup oil 2 cups sugar 2 cups anything* 3 teaspoons vanilla 1 cup chopped nuts Sift together flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and cinnamon and set aside. Beat eggs in large bowl. Add oil and sugar and cream well. Add “anything” and vanilla. Add dry ingredients. Mix well. Add nuts. Spoon into 2 greased and floured loaf pans or a large Bundt pan. Bake at 350°F for 40 minutes (loaves) or 50 to 55 minutes (Bundt pan). Cool in the pan for 15 minutes and then turn out onto rack to cool completely. *The “anything” in this recipe can be one or any combination of: grated apples, mashed bananas, grated carrots, chopped dates, pumpkin purée, raisins, chopped rhubarb, chopped strawberries (or any other berry), grated squash or zucchini, etc. Maryellen Casey said, “The ‘anything’ concept is fun. I had a banana and two apples that needed to be used, so I combined them with enough raisins to make the ‘2 cups anything’ the recipe calls for. Next time, I’ll tweak the spices a little, depending on what fruit I’m using, but this is a good starting point.” Maryellen reported that the recipe froze and defrosted well. “I could see making this bread in several small loaf pans and freezing them to quickly thaw when unexpected company shows up or to give as hostess or holiday gifts.” 25 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANY BEER BREAD Bob always made us laugh, as with his preface to this post: “This basic recipe came from a caller to my radio program and it sounded so good and so simple that I felt the need to make and eat a lot of bread over a couple weeks. It was a hard job, but I did it in the interests of science, furthering human culinary knowledge, and because I’m just that kind of giving person. Seriously. “This can be done with any kind of beer. I’ve done it with a range of them from a very light American-style lager, to a medium-weight lager like Yuengling, all the way to Guinness Stout. They were all wonderful. And I made several variations (see below).” 3 cups self-rising flour (about 1 pound) 3 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt 12 ounces beer (one can or bottle) Heat oven to 350°F. Combine dry ingredients and mix. Add beer, mix and pour/scrape into bread pans. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, depending on any additions. The top should be lightly browned, and a toothpick or knife inserted for testing comes out clean. Turn out onto a rack to cool. Beer bread with fruit: Same as above with the addition of two more tablespoons of sugar, some spices (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, allspice, or whatever you like) and chopped dried fruit. I’ve used cherries, mangoes, apples, pears, apricots, cranberries and raisins. I’ve rehydrated the dried fruit in the beer, and I’ve done it without rehydrating. Works both ways. Grand. Beer bread with bacon: Cook a pound of bacon (and save the fat for making your hair shiny or cooking other things). Chop it into fingernail-sized pieces. Stir into the dry ingredients. Finish as above. Beer bread with three onions: Same as above, but add sautéed onions (I cooked two medium onions low and slow until nicely browned and very sweet), chopped chives and dehydrated chopped onions. A total of about ¾ cup. 26 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Beer bread with...I’d say, try it with anything that sounds good to you, with a few considerations: 1. Nothing too wet. Nothing that will give off juices and soggy-up the bread. 2. Nothing too dry. Consider how much liquid they’ll soak up in the baking. Dry out the bread. 3. I’d stay under a cup of total additions. 4. Have plenty of butter on hand. 5. Make more than one at a time. Otherwise you won’t get any. Janet Morrissey reported, “This is the quickest, easiest bread to make. It’s also delicious, with a surprisingly good texture. It can be thrown together and be ready with the rest of dinner. Also wonderful cooled and used for ham sandwiches. But it’s at its very best when still warm.” Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead-to-know basis. Posted by Diane Laux in Chicago 27 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS ANYTHING PASTA SALAD WITH ANYTHING VINAIGRETTE 1 pound pasta, cooked and drained Vinaigrette 1 bunch other stuffs Cook pasta, drain and toss immediately with your vinaigrette dressing made separately. Ratio of oil to vinegar for a classic vinaigrette normally is between 2:1 oil to vinegar, and 4:1 oil to vinegar. Use 1⁄3 roasted garlic grapeseed oil, 1⁄3 basil (or other herb-flavored, less if rosemary) olive oil and 1⁄3 very light olive oil. (Heavy/fruity olive oils will overwhelm the other flavors. Lower quality oils will have more acid, and so provide a bit more sparkle. I usually use “pure” olive oil or pomice for such applications. The oil isn’t a star, just a supporting player.) A total of 1 to 1½ cups. Use 1⁄3 blood orange vinegar, 1⁄3 basil vinegar, 1⁄3 apple cider vinegar. Optionally, whisk in a tablespoon or two of tomato paste (tubes of it are handy), roasted red pepper purée, or a tablespoon of roasted garlic purée, for a total of ½ cup. If you want the dressing to remain more integral, whisk an egg into the vinegars before combining them with the oils. The acid will kill the unlikely salmonella, as it does in mayonnaise. Add oil as for a mayonnaise. You can use dry mustard with or instead of egg for emulsification, but it won’t bind as well by itself. I’d figure about 1½ or 2 cups of dressing per uncooked pound of pasta because a good bit of it will be absorbed, and you’re adding other stuff later that will need to be coated. Maybe reserve a bit of it to add at the end to insure coverage of tomatoes, basil, and whatever else you decide to add. Add some chopped (peeled and seeded) cucumber for a fruity flavor. I’ve added chopped melon to similar salads and it adds a few flavor notes that are surprising and pleasant. Chopped, roasted, oil-packed red peppers. My approach would be to add layers of flavor and small fireworks to what most 28 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS people see as “picnic food” so they’re positively surprised and wondering why they never thought of it. Drained capers or, even way better, caper berries with stems still attached. Scatter the berries over top for presentation. Most people won’t know what they are, and when the first one asks, the salad will occupy center stage in everyone’s mind until they know. And there will be more questions. Answer them with your best “aw, shucks, it weren’t nothin” imitation. You don’t have to *be* sincere. You just have to *act* sincere. Bring recipe cards to sell to the startled public. I’d go at least $2.95 each. No, seriously... Pastorio We have never been a melting pot. The fact is we are more like a tossed salad. We are green, some of us are oily, and there’s a little vinegar injected when you get up to Ottawa. ~Arnold Edinborough, Canadian journalist Posted by Tina V. 29 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS RAPID LEMON GLAZE (OR ALMOST ANY FLAVOR) ½ cup orange juice concentrate ½ cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon corn starch Okay. Now don’t tell anybody, but here’s the quickest orange-lemon sauce I’ve ever heard of. It’s just you and me here and this is a restaurant secret. Combine in a stainless or glass saucepan, whisk and bring to a gentle boil. Chill and do whatever you want with it. Have a friend nearby. Adjust the balance of flavors, thickness and temperature to suit yourself. Promise you won’t tell anybody... Oh, you can radically change the whole thing by using different juice concentrates and juices. Orange-tangerine and pineapple. Cranberry and cranberry. Pineapple and coconut milk (and a dash of rum). Any more ideas? That pineapple, coconut, and rum sauce might just be wonderful over a tembleque (Puerto Rican coconut custard) or a Spanish-style flan. Or on your thumb. Have a friend nearby. Walk me through your checkout line and I’ll tell you who you are. ~Elinor Lipman Posted by Terry Pogue 30 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS STOCKS BY BOB 1 bunch bones Leftover roast meat or poultry, with bones and skin 1 bunch vegetables (celery, carrot, onion) 1 bunch water Salt Stock cubes and other commercial preparations are approximations of what real stock tastes like. Sometimes the approximation is a long way off. Enriching the flavor of stock by precooking the meats or vegetables offers a possibility of greater intensity and fullness of flavor. Sweat the chicken first. Likewise veal. Same with the veggies. Start fish stock with trimmings and bones in cold water over low heat. Roast beef meat and bones and the veggies (celery, carrot and onion) in a hot oven to deeply brown them. The resulting stock will have the color and flavor of the Maillard reactions (the name of all the things that happen when foods brown) to add to the basic flavor of the meats. I don’t know where that notion that roasting meats, bones and veggies makes for cloudy stock. It isn’t so. Cooking stock ingredients before simmering has a long tradition in both home and haute cuisine. Searing veggies adds a bit of color and additional flavor notes. Stock is cloudy if it’s boiled, not skimmed, not defatted or if solids are left in—not filtered. Or some combination. I routinely roast chickens before making stock (and sometimes a leg and thigh accidentally get eaten before they make it to the stockpot) and season them lightly with salt, pepper and garlic. Much of the fat is rendered, skin is crisped and the meats become firm. I cut it up and put into just enough water to cover, sometimes with a mirepoix (celery, carrot and onion but no turnip or potato) and sometimes not. And, again, sometimes, the mirepoix is roasted, or sweated or even just raw. 31 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS Each variation will give a different finish. To get the true flavor of stocks, somewhere near the end, it needs to be salted. Even very rich stocks (reduced or reinforced) have flavor notes that don’t appear until salt is added. It needn’t be a lot of salt, but the difference is astonishing with and without salt. Bones add a wonderful darkness of flavor, and a good ratio for beef stock is 3 units of bones to one of meat. Since I make it in large quantity, it’s 10-12 pounds of bones to 3-4 pounds of meat. I usually use one of the cheap cuts and leave it whole—some chuck cut, usually. Local meat cutters are happy to provide bones for the purpose—one calls them “dog bones.” I roast bones and meat at 450°F in a flat roasting pan. After a couple hours, I throw in the veggies and let them roast to a good brown color. Pour off the fat (it's usually scorched and not very tasty) and dump everything in enough water to cover. Boiling the stock hard or at all guarantees a cloudy stock. A very gentle simmer (so the surface "laughs," as a French chef would say) and frequent skimming make a clear and intensely flavored stock. Use low heat and let it go for maybe 24 hours, skimming whenever I happen to be nearby and adding liquid as needed. Water, wine, tomato juice… whatever the moment offers. If I'm making a clear broth, I take pains to skim very deliberately. Skimming and filtering make for the clearest and richest-tasting stocks. When it reaches the place I want it to be, I gently pour through 3 or 4 layers of cheesecloth in a chinois (fine conical sieve). Solids are useless for anything else. Sometimes I give the meats to my cats and they seem to like it. Can't hurt. I don't often do the traditional clearmeat approach with ground meat and egg. Too fussy for any but the most elaborate exercise. Still, filtering through cheesecloth makes for a good stock. Do that a few times and it really sparkles. When I’m at home, I use a crockpot to reduce stocks. Set it to medium and leave the lid off. Let it go all night. The surface doesn't even ripple. The whole house smells grand. 32 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS If I'm using it as a soup base, I filter once to get the pieces out and that's it. For risotto or similar dishes, I filter only through a colander so that small bits are still in there. I like what it looks and tastes like. Adds tiny bits to the bite as well. The ice-cube approach has been in common currency for decades. It works fine. If you operate according to a fixed recipe and reduce to a fixed amount, you can freeze stock in concentrated portion size. Maybe one cube makes a cup of broth or some other amount you find useful. Who bothers to cook TV dinners? I suck them frozen. ~Woody Allen Posted by Romain If a lump of soot falls into the soup and you cannot conveniently get it out, stir it well in and it will give the soup a French taste. ~Jonathan Swift Posted by Tina V. 33 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS PASTORIO’S MAYONNAISE 1 egg 1 cup oil 1 tablespoon lemon juice or ⅛ cup vinegar Dry mustard 1 teaspoon salt The Kid and I make our own mayo. Whole eggs, salt, dry mustard, lemon juice, oil. It’ll last months in the fridge. Sometimes, vinegar instead of lemon juice. Other times, pureed garlic or pureed roasted peppers added. Different oils. Last time, I used a dash of truffle oil with the walnut and olive oils. If using a wand blender, add egg, lemon, salt, mustard, and oil in that order to a tall, narrow vessel (mine came with one—holds maybe 3 cups and is about 3½ inches across the bottom). Put the blender end all the way to the bottom and turn it on. Leave it there for about 10 seconds, then slowly pull it up, taking about a minute or more. Mayo. If you want it thicker, add another egg (or just a yolk) or cut back on the oil. Chloe Parrott asked: “I would imagine that one of the main issues here is that food processor/hand blender mayonnaise is easier made with whole eggs and hand-made mayonnaise (whisk, fork, spoon, finger if you’re desperate :-) ) can *only* be made with egg yolks. Correct me if I’m wrong, but that has been my experience. How easy is it to make *real* (egg-yolk) mayonnaise successfully in a food processor?” And Bob said, “Easier than using traditional methods. And with more control over thickness of the finished product. Either one can be made either way. I like whole egg mayonnaise better—broader flavor and texture profile. 34 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS I would also consider egg-yolk mayonnaise and whole-egg mayonnaise to be very different sauces. I make both, but for quite different purposes. I always make mayonnaise with 100% olive oil—about three-quarters a very light oil that I buy in Spain and one-quarter normal good Portuguese oil. I’ve given up buying non-olive oil, it tastes so horrid. Different applications call for different oils. A full-flavored garlic mayonnaise (aioli and the like) demands fruity olive oil. A lighter mayo for, say, a grilled fish salad suits my tastes better if made with an oil with milder flavor notes, such as walnut oil or maybe a grapeseed/canola combination. Veni. Vidi. Coxi! I Came. I Saw. I Cooked! Posted by Jon Randall 35 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS BREADCRUMB AND FLOUR COATINGS 1 bunch flour 1 bunch bread crumbs 1 bunch stuff to put it on 1 cup milk 1 egg As I was growing up, my mother used to make the most delicious breaded veal chops (and other breaded and fried foods, like salmon and tuna croquettes). She always let the food sit on a plate for a while (most likely not in the refrigerator) until she fried them maybe a half hour later. That drying step makes an enormous difference in the adherence of the crust as well as its integrity. It doesn’t break off or stick to the pan. I never let these items sit after coating—they just never tasted as good, didn’t have that wonderful crust, etc. Mom and I always let them sit for a few minutes after cooking, on paper towels to take away excess oil. For those things that benefit from a good crust of breading, I even go so far as to double-dip. Pork chops, dredged in seasoned flour, then into a seasoned egg wash, into seasoned crumbs, back into the egg, back into the crumbs, on a tray on wax (greaseproof) paper for an hour or more, turning once after a halfhour or so. Typically, I pan fry the chops in a very uncharacteristic way for me—I guess when they’re done by looking at the color of the breading. It should be a good gold color on both sides. The meat is effectively steamed inside the crumb crust. It’s very good. The seasonings are: in flour—salt, pepper and a bit of garlic powder. In egg wash—Tabasco sauce, salt, white wine, a few eggs. In crumbs—place salt, pepper, oregano, basil, rosemary, sage, ginger in a blender and whirl to make a fine powder. Mix with the bread crumbs. 36 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS BEYOND BASIC BUTTER 1 quart heavy cream 3 tablespoons plain yogurt One of the more remarkable butters I’ve ever made goes like this: Take a quart of heavy cream (at least 36% milkfat) and heat it to 180°F. Cool to 110°F and stir in about 3 tablespoons plain yogurt. Pour into a thermos jug or some other container that you can keep at about 110°F for 24 hours. At that point, put it in the fridge to cool thoroughly. It will gradually become thick. Let it rest 24 hours in the fridge. (You might want to taste this yogurt with some serious sensuality. The mouthfeel is astonishing, and a shake of sugar on a strawberry dipped in it makes it a personal moment.) Now whip it with a mixer until you have butter. Let it drain in a colander in the fridge over a bowl to collect the buttermilk. Spread that on a piece of toast and you’ll have a whole new idea of what butter is. The buttermilk is wonderful in soups, breads, or even as the liquid in pasta. I would far prefer to have things happen as they naturally do, such as the mousse refusing to leave the mold, the potatoes sticking to the skillet, the apple charlotte slowly collapsing. One of the secrets of cooking is to learn to correct something if you can, and bear with it if you cannot. ~Julia Child Posted by Bob Pastorio 37 THE PASTORIO FUNDAMENTALS SEVICHE (CEVICHE) Fish (mackerel, orange roughy, salmon, tuna, red snapper, flounder or turbot) or shellfish (scallops, shrimp and rock shrimp—if you can find them—or lobster) Citrus juice Vinegar Onion, thinly sliced (optional) Pimentos (optional) Olives (optional) Bell peppers, diced (optional) Seasonings (mix and match, pick and choose): peppercorns, bay leaf, red pepper flakes Vinegar is strongly acid and will cook some seafood without heat, by firming the protein in the food, making it snowy white. Some recipes call for lemon or lime juice, either alone or with vinegar, for both flavor and effect. Some versions call for the food to be marinated in the acids and served as is; others marinate, then cook more traditionally. In either case, it can be a very elegant treat. Layer bite-sized pieces of fish or shellfish in a glass or ceramic container. Next, add a layer of thinly sliced onion seasoned with pinches of red pepper flakes, peppercorns and powdered bay leaf. Some cooks add diced bell peppers, pimentos, jalapenos, peas, carrot shreds or black olives. Repeat the layers and, finally, add enough of the pickling liquid to cover. Use 1⁄3 to ½ cup citrus juice, and white or white-wine vinegar. Refrigerate for 24 hours. Serve as an appetizer or hors d’oeuvre with toothpicks, or drain and toss the fish and onions with sour cream or yogurt. I add some thinly sliced cucumber when I do it this way. The seviche will hold for 4-5 days in the fridge. I use a blend of lemon, peppercorn, orange and ginger vinegars. Yellow onion, red pimento, green pepper, and black olives with white fish, pink shrimp and creamy-gold scallops make a visual treat and a festival of flavors and textures. 38 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES ARTICHOKE-ASIAGO DIP Contributor Matthew Hill says his wife and daughter created this recipe after tasting a local deli shop’s version of it. ½ pound block Asiago cheese 2 garlic cloves 2 small jars (about 350 ml) marinated quartered artichoke hearts 1 tablespoon lemon juice (fresh, not bottled) ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons mayonnaise Using the knife blade, process the garlic cloves on fine chop in your food processor. Add Asiago and pulse into small chunks (do not pulverize smooth). Add artichokes, using marinade from one jar only. Add salt, lemon juice, and mayonnaise, pulsing to mix while keeping texture chunky. Notes: If you buy artichoke hearts in a larger jar, start with ¼ cup of the marinade, taste, and add more if needed. You can substitute marinated whole hearts with stems; they are more flavorful but much more expensive. Do not substitute Miracle Whip for mayonnaise: It separates and is sweet. Eating an artichoke is like getting to know someone really well. Posted by Terry Pogue 40 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES CHEESE BALL Susan D. Schoneweis adapted this recipe from a Better Homes & Gardens cookbook. “This is the only cheese ball I’ve ever liked. I make it for Christmas Eve with family, but have also taken it to work. I’ve never had anyone say they didn’t like it. The recipe doubles, triples, quadruples … just season to taste.” 1 8-ounce package cream cheese or Neufchatel cheese, softened 3 tablespoons Heinz 57 sauce (do not use A1!!!) 1 cup finely chopped pecans, toasted in oven and cooled 3 cloves of garlic, minced or pressed Tabasco sauce to taste 4 whole pecan halves Reserve ½ cup of the chopped nuts. Blend together the remaining ingredients. Place the reserved pecans on a sheet of plastic wrap or waxed paper. With a spatula, form the cheese mix into a ball and place on the nuts to coat. Decorate the top with the pecan halves. Wrap in plastic wrap, refrigerate. Tastes best when made a few days ahead and flavors have time to mingle. Serve with crackers. The poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese. ~G.K. Chesterton Posted by Bonnie Howard 41 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES BOURSIN-ISH CHEESE Bob Pastorio came up with his own version of the soft herbed cheese sold in grocery stores, preferring the freshness of using his own ingredients, and the flexibility of the variations you can try depending on what’s in your own pantry. Makes about 3 cups 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1 pound cream cheese, at room temperature 1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature 1¼ teaspoons dried oregano ¼ teaspoon dried basil ¼ teaspoon dried dill weed ¼ teaspoon dried thyme ¼ teaspoon fresh-ground pepper Put all ingredients in food processor bowl, and process until smooth. Scrape down sides and run again until ingredients look uniformly mixed. Put into another container and chill for 2 hours or more. Notes: You can vary the recipe by altering the balance of ingredients or adding others. Sun-dried tomatoes, roasted peppers, finely chopped rosemary, anchovies, and wasabi are all good choices. Testers found the basic recipe mild and added goat cheese for extra flavor. One can drink too much, but one never drinks enough. ~Gotthold Ephraim Lessing Posted by Ellen in Dallas 42 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES BEER-BATTER ARTICHOKE HEARTS Contributor Anne B. writes: “These make a real mess when being made, but they’re still great for parties because they freeze well and reheat beautifully.” 1 cup all purpose flour 1 cup beer Pinch salt 1 can fresh or 1 package frozen artichoke hearts, thawed Oil for frying Mix the flour with the beer and salt until all the flour is wet. It’s okay to leave lumps, just make sure there are no dry patches at the bottom of the bowl. Chill for an hour or more. Drain the artichokes and cut into quarters, or small bite-sized pieces, depending on size. Heat the oil in a frying pan or wok over high heat until a drop of water sizzles when dropped in. Dip the ‘chokes into the batter, then, in batches, carefully slide into the oil and fry about two minutes each side until golden brown. Drain on a rack over paper. When possible, break off a small piece of fried batter and taste; season with salt if needed.. You can serve the chokes as soon as you can pick them up, or, you can spread them on a baking sheet and freeze them, bagging them once they’re frozen (if you bag them before freezing, you’ll never get them apart later). To reheat, fire up your oven to 400˚F, put the frozen ‘chokes on a sheet in one layer and heat for about 5 to 10 minutes, until they’re hot and crisp again. Serve with dipping sauces. For parties, put out a variety of sauces: Bearnaise, aioli, BBQ, ranch dressing, mayonnaise, whatever. Notes: Testers added more salt and red pepper flakes to the batter, and used a deep-fat fryer. 43 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES GOUGERE Tina Vierra nominated this recipe by winemaker and list member Penny Coster after having it with champagne at Penny’s dinner party. “The flavor of these with sparkling wine is fantastic!” Penny says, “It is a mixture of a recipe that we used to make in the tasting room, and from a French cookbook called The Food of France. This is just a choux paste with the addition of cheese, usually Gruyere; you can add herbs or spices to fit the meal.“ ¾ cup water ½ stick unsalted butter 1 cup sifted flour 3 large eggs 1 cup grated Manchego cheese 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon paprika Preheat oven to 425˚F. Bring water to boil in a saucepan. Add butter, salt, cayenne, and nutmeg, and heat until butter is melted. Remove from heat. Add flour and blend thoroughly. Return to heat, stirring, for 1 to 2 minutes until mixture pulls away from side of pan and forms a ball. Remove from heat, let cool to the touch. Make a well in the center of the mixture. Add eggs one at a time and beat after each addition until well blended. Add the cheese and mix well. Spoon onto baking sheet. Bake for about 20-25 minutes or until puffy and brown. Champagne for my real friends, real pain for my sham friends. ~Tom Waits Posted by Bruce Baker 44 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES FIG-WALNUT TAPENADE WITH GOAT CHEESE Contributor Robyn came up with this recipe for a wine party, reporting that the flavor of thyme and the other ingredients is a great pairing with wines. Serves 4-6. ½ cup chopped, stemmed, dried Calimyma figs 3 tablespoons water 4 tablespoons chopped Niçoise olives 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil 1½ teaspoons balsamic vinegar 1½ teaspoons drained capers, chopped ¾ teaspoon fresh thyme Salt and pepper to taste ¼ cup chopped walnuts, toasted 1 5½-ounce log goat cheese ¼ cup walnut halves, toasted for garnish Fresh thyme sprigs for garnish Assorted sliced breads and/or crackers for serving Combine figs and water in a small heavy saucepan over medium high heat; cook for about 7 minutes, until liquid evaporates and figs are soft. Transfer figs to a bowl. Mix in olives, olive oil, vinegar, capers and chopped thyme. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in chopped walnuts. Place cheese log in center of a small dish. Arrange tapenade around it and garnish with walnut halves and thyme. Serve with sliced bread and/or crackers. Notes: The tapenade can be prepared without chopped walnuts up to 3 days ahead, covered and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature and stir in chopped walnuts before serving. While the recipe calls for Calimyma figs, testers reported that any figs on hand are fine to substitute. 45 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES GORGONZOLA, GRAPE AND NUT CROSTINI Contributor Terry Pogue found this recipe in the Washington Post and served the crostini to a weekly gathering of her husband’s group of friends. They were such a hit that they were immediately nominated for the cookbook. Yields 30 slices, serves 15 4 ounces cream cheese at room temperature ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 cup crumbled Gorgonzola cheese 2 tablespoons finely chopped green onion Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup seedless red grapes, halved ½ cup toasted pine nuts 30 slices French baguette-style bread Toast pine nuts on cookie sheet in oven preheated to 350°F until lightly browned, about seven minutes. Preheat oven to 400˚F. Beat together cream cheese, mayonnaise, gorgonzola cheese, and green onions; season with salt and pepper. Fold in grapes and pine nuts. Spread a tablespoon of cheese mixture on each baguette slice. Bake until heated and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Serve immediately. Notes: Testers found the blue cheese strong and reduced the amount. Some chopped the grapes rather than just cutting them in half. Cooking time for the crostini varied greatly from oven to oven. Testers finally settled on baking for 5 minutes at 400°F, then broiling for a few seconds to brown the tops. 46 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES HERBED HUMMUS DIP Contributor Pat Belanger found this recipe in Canadian Living magazine, and knows a restaurateur who serves it as a free appetizer to diners. 1 19-ounce can chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed 3 tablespoons each lemon juice and water 2 tablespoons light mayonnaise 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil ¼ teaspoon each, dried dillweed and salt Pinch of pepper 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 green onion, chopped Blend all ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Make ahead and refrigerate in airtight container for up to 3 days. Makes 2 cups and can be served with vegetables or whole-wheat pita crisps/crackers. Reminds me of my safari in Africa. Somebody forgot the corkscrew and for several days we had to live on nothing but food and water. ~W. C. Fields Posted by Tina V. 47 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES GRANDPA MIKEY’S HABANERO JELLY Contributed by Lyn Belisle, this is an old family recipe. Yield: 7 half-pint jars 3 large fleshy orange bell peppers 5 to 10 ripe habanero peppers 1½ cups distilled white vinegar 7 cups sugar 9 fluid ounces liquid fruit pectin (Certo or equivalent) Remove stems, seeds and membranes from all peppers (use gloves when handling the habaneros ... yes ... seriously ... USE GLOVES!). Put peppers and the vinegar in a blender and process until smooth. Combine pepper-vinegar purée and all the sugar in a non-corrosive pan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to a simmer, and cook for 20 minutes. Remove from heat and strain through cheesecloth into another pan (straining is optional—I like to leave the little pieces of pepper for texture). Add pectin and bring to a full rolling boil while stirring. Boil about one minute, remove from heat and ladle into sterile jars. Bond reflected that Americans were fine people, and that most of them seemed to come from Texas. ~Ian Fleming, Casino Royale Posted by Texas Chris 48 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES MERRY TOMATOES Terry Pogue’s Merry Tomatoes are famous, party standards for so many list members that copies of this recipe have been handed out far and wide. Gretl Collins, one of many who nominated the recipe for this cookbook, writes: “I use a toothpick to poke a few holes in each tomato, then marinate them (refrigerated) in a ziplock bag with the vodka, squeezing out the air so all the tomatoes are covered. As a variation, sometimes I use lime pepper.” 30 to 40 cherry tomatoes, stems removed 1 cup or more vodka 1 teaspoon celery salt ¼ teaspoon lemon pepper Place the tomatoes in a glass bowl (like a small trifle bowl) and pour vodka over them (you made need more than one cup of vodka because you want the tomatoes to be covered). Depending on the strength of the infusion desired, soak the tomatoes for between two hours at room temperature and overnight in the refrigerator before serving. To serve, place celery salt and lemon pepper in a separate, wide-mouth shallow bowl, with a container of tooth picks nearby. Guests stab a tomato and dip in the salt/pepper combination … it tastes just like a bloody Mary. Notes: It doesn’t hurt to double the salt and pepper mixture. Actually, testers say it doesn’t hurt to double the whole recipe –these go fast! Avoid strong drink. It can make you shoot at tax collectors—and miss. Posted by Blake in San Antonio 49 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES PARMESAN CRISPS Janet Morrissey contributed this recipe inspired by Food Network’s Alton Brown and modified by Foodwine list testers. Yield: 30 crisps 3 ounces Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Freshly ground black pepper Smoked paprika Cayenne pepper (optional) Preheat the oven to 400°F. Finely grate cheese using the smallest-hole side of a 4-sided box grater (a microplane also works well) into a small bowl. Using a tablespoon measure, place cheese in mounds onto a nonstick silicone pad or a cookie sheet lined with greased parchment paper. Flatten mounds with the back of a spoon, making sure they’re at least ½ inch apart. Season with pepper, paprika, or cayenne if desired. Bake on the middle rack of the oven for 5 to 6 minutes or until golden. Notes: One tester made very large versions of these, baked over upside-down, oven-safe bowls to create bowl shapes. She used the cooled Parmesan bowls to serve Caesar salad. The table is a meeting place, a gathering ground, the source of sustenance and nourishment, festivity, safety, and satisfaction. ~Laurie Colwin Posted by Ellen in Dallas 50 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES PEPPER JELLY CHEESECAKE List member Rosebud says of her recipe, “This is a really easy appetizer that frequently appears on my New Year’s Eve party buffet and at birthday parties. You can make it a day ahead and just get it out, plate it, top it, and step back.” 8 ounces cream cheese 1 egg 2 cloves garlic, finely minced 5 ounces sharp cheddar, grated 6 ounces pepper jelly (jalapeño or habanero) Preheat oven to 325˚F. Mix cream cheese, egg, garlic, cheddar and 4 ounces pepper jelly in food processor. Spray a 6-inch springform pan with nonstick cooking spray, line with parchment paper, and spray again. Pour mixture into pan. Bake in preheated oven for 25 to 30 minutes. Turn off the oven and let cool down in oven for 2 hours. Cool in refrigerator for several hours or overnight. Spread with the remaining 2 ounces pepper jelly. Serve with crackers. Notes: Tester Sheila Foster didn’t have a springform pan, but her 7-inch tart pan worked just fine. She also recommends slightly less cooking time (20 to 25 minutes) if you want a firm cheesecake, and more time (25 to 30 minutes) if you like it crumbly. A recipe is only a theme, which an intelligent cook can play each time with a variation. ~Madame Benoit Posted by Ron 51 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES SALMON BALLS Contributor Sherry Blair makes several of these for the holidays and freezes them, taking one out each time she’s off to a holiday gathering. 1 15-ounce can salmon, drained 1 8-ounce package cream cheese (can use low fat or fat free) ¼ teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon horseradish ½ teaspoon lemon juice 1 cup pecans (halves or chopped) Mix together the first five ingredients, by hand or with a mixer. Form into two balls, chill until the balls are hard enough to roll in the pecans to coat.them. Serve with crackers. Freezes well. Notes: Testers served with slices of pumpernickel bread and celery. I bet that when serious heroin addicts go to purchase their heroin, they do not tolerate waiting in line while some dilettante in front of them orders a hazelnut smack-a-cino with cinnamon sprinkles. ~Dave Barry Posted by Michele Spainhour Rumohr 52 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES POLENTA ROUNDS WITH BLACK-EYED PEAS This recipe from Southern Living magazine was contributed by Jeanie Roberts, who found it tasty, pretty, and easy to make. 1 tube refrigerated sun-dried tomato polenta, cut into 12 rounds 1 15-ounce can black-eyed peas, rinsed and drained ½ onion, finely chopped ½ cup finely chopped red pepper ¼ cup water ½ teaspoon red pepper ½ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro (optional) ½ cup sour cream Cook polenta rounds in large nonstick frying pan coated with a little bit of olive oil. Fry about 4 minutes per side until lightly browned. Remove and keep warm. Cook peas, pepper, onion and spices in water over medium-high heat until water evaporates. Stir in the cilantro, if you like it. Spoon warm pea mixture over polenta rounds, top with a dollop of sour cream. Notes: Tester Marie Pinho added a teaspoon each of olive oil and vinegar to the pea mixture as it cooked. Even though eating honey is a very good thing to do, there is a moment just before you begin to eat it which is better. ~A.A. Milne, Winnie-the-Pooh Posted by Rob Wells 53 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES CRAB BOBOLI EXTRAVAGANZA Contributed by Terry Pogue, this recipe has been a list favorite for years. Serves 10-12 ½ cup mayonnaise 1 teaspoon dried dill weed 2 cloves garlic, minced ¼ cup parsley, minced ⅛ teaspoon cayenne pepper 10 ounces lump crab meat 1 cup cheddar cheese, shredded 1 cup Monterey Jack cheese, shredded 1 14-ounce can artichoke hearts or bottoms, chopped 1 large Boboli bread Combine all ingredients except bread. Warm the bread for 5 minutes in a 250°F oven. Spread crab-cheese mixture on the bread and broil for 3 to 4 minutes or until cheese is melted. Notes: This decadent lovely appetizer is almost a crab dip. Good taste is the worst vice ever invented. ~Dame Edith Sitwell, English poet 1887-1964 Posted by Juergen Gasche 54 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES SHRIMP PONTCHARTRAIN Karen Brack has had this recipe clipping so long, she’s not sure where it came from; she thinks it dates back to the 1970s. A hand-written note on the clipping says “N.Y. Times Favorites.” Karen says it’s a delicious, elegant first course. Serves 4 2 tablespoons finely minced heart of celery 1 teaspoon anchovy paste 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1 tablespoon paprika 1 tablespoon finely minced scallions 1 tablespoon minced parsley 2 tablespoons wine vinegar 7 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1 tablespoon sharp horseradish or Creole mustard 1 teaspoon horseradish 24 cooked, chilled and peeled shrimp Thoroughly blend all ingredients except the shrimp. Pour mixture over the shrimp and chill until ready to use. Serve, if desired, over chopped lettuce. Notes: The dressing also goes very well with mussels and other seafood. Can be made a day in advance and chilled overnight. Tester Janet Morrissey served it on a buffet, using the sauce for dipping. Tester Lyn Belisle said the dish “reminded me of a shrimp recipe that my mother (who was from Louisiana) fixed at Thanksgiving called Shrimp Arnaud. Some people may be inclined to leave out the anchovy paste, but it works well and adds a richness to the sauce.” Lyn’s husband Mike suggests using larger shrimp. “It would make a nice first course or a light cold lunch in the summer.” 55 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES STUFFED DATES Contributed by Robyn, our resident wine lover. Serves 4 16 large or 32 small dates ¼ pound hunk of Parmesan cheese 16 very thin slices applewood-smoked bacon Parsley leaves Preheat oven to 500˚F. Pre-cook the bacon to about ½ done (you can either use a microwave oven, parboil it, or cook in a pan on the stove). Cut a slit in each date and remove the pits. With a dull knife, chop the Parmeson into chunks slightly large than an almond. Place a chunk of cheese inside each date and wrap with a slice of bacon (if you have smaller dates, use half a slice). Place the dates on a roasting rack on a sheet pan and cook until bacon is crispy, about 10 minutes. Place in a bowl and top with parsley leaves. Serve immediately but be careful—they will be hot inside! Variations: You can substitute Brie cheese for Parmesan, and add some crumbled bacon to the inside of the dates. Thin pancetta can be used instead of bacon. Nobody gets out of here without a doggie bag. Posted by Anne B. 56 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES TEX-MEX DEVILED EGGS Contributed by Maggie Johnson, with testers reporting that the eggs are both delicious and beautiful on the serving plate. 6 eggs, hard-boiled 2 ⁄3 cup cheddar cheese, shredded ¼ cup mayonnaise 1 ⁄3 cup salsa 2 tablespoons green onions, sliced 2 tablespoons sour cream Salt and pepper Hard-boil the eggs, then plunge into ice and cold water. Peel, and place the yolks in a mixing bowl. Mash yolks with all other ingredients. Taste for seasoning. Fill the egg whites. Chill before serving. Note: A little hot sauce is a nice addition. Humpty Dumpty sat on a wall, Humpty Dumpty had a great fall. All the kings’ horses And all the kings’ men, Had scrambled eggs, For breakfast again. Posted by Terry Pogue 57 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES SUN-DRIED TOMATO AND RED PEPPER DIP Contributor Matthew Hill says, “This is from a Gourmet magazine recipe. While it’s great as a dip, it is superlative served over eggplant patties.” 2 7-ounce jars roasted red peppers, drained 3 ounces sun-dried tomatoes (NOT packed in oil) 2 (or more) cloves garlic, chopped fine 1½ teaspoons ground cumin 1 or 2 pickled jalapeno chilis, seeded and minced 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup chopped fresh coriander (or parsley if preferred) ¼ cup chopped green onion 1 8-ounce block cream cheese, cut into bits and softened (optional if using the dip as a sauce) Soak sun-dried tomatoes in hot water for 5 minutes and drain well, reserving 3 tablespoons of soaking liquid. Purée tomatoes and all other ingredients except the cream cheese until smooth. Add cream cheese and salt to taste; purée till smooth, adding reserved tomato-soaking liquid to thin as needed. Use as dip, as a cold sauce for pasta, or over eggplant patties (see next page). Tester Wendy Hunt, who owns a food shop in Canada, says the dip is wonderful and says she serves it in her shop, where it sells well. She reports it keeps fresh for several days. What I like to drink most is wine that belongs to others. ~Diogenes Posted by Tina V. 58 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES LISA’S EGGPLANT PATTIES (BASED ON NONA’S MEATBALLS) All in the family here. Lisa is Matthew Hill’s former daughter-in-law, and this is her grandmother’s (Nona’s) recipe. Matthew says, “Nona is a wonderful cook who can bone a whole chicken in minutes, and thinks there is never enough food nor enough family around to eat it.” 1 large eggplant, cut into ¼-inch dice 1 medium white or yellow onion, chopped 2 to 3 cloves garlic, chopped olive oil 3 or 4 eggs 2 to 3 cups breadcrumbs and/or cornmeal Fresh parsley ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Salt and pepper to taste If you feel your eggplant is old (not perfectly fresh), revive it by salting, placing in a colander, and draining over the sink for about 30 minutes. Then rinse. Sauté eggplant, garlic and onions in olive oil over medium-low heat until soft. Remove from heat, pour into mixing bowl, and add remaining ingredients. Form into patties or balls. Return to pan and fry. Notes: Ingredient amounts are variable in Nona’s recipe, which was dictated to Lisa and had never been written down. Nona says they depend on the size of your eggplant. Ask your child what he wants for dinner only if he’s buying! ~Fran Lebowitz Posted by Daniel in Nashville, TN 59 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES SWEET ONION, APPLE AND CHEESE TART Contributed by wine-lover Robyn. For flaky pastry crust: 1½ cups all purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt 5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 2 tablespoons cold vegetable shortening, cut into small pieces 4 to 6 tablespoons ice water For the tart: 2 small Granny Smith or Newtown Pippin apples, peeled, cored, and cut into ⅛-inch lengthwise slices, divided in half 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided in half 2 medium red onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon granulated sugar ½ teaspoon dried thyme 2 eggs, at room temperature 1 cup half-and-half or heavy cream ½ teaspoon salt Freshly ground black pepper ½ cup blue cheese 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cheddar cheese, grated Make the crust. Preheat oven to 375°F. In a medium bowl, whisk together flour and salt. Add the butter and shortening. Using your fingers or a pastry blender, work the butter and shortening into flour until crumbly and some pea-size pieces remain. If time permits, chill the flour mixture for 30 minutes. Drizzle ice water over the flour mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing until all the flour is moistened and the pastry just clears the side of the bowl (add 1 or 2 teaspoons water if needed). Using lightly-floured hands, gather dough into a ball. Shape into a disk, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill for 1 hour. 60 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES Remove dough from the refrigerator; soften slightly if needed. Roll the dough into a 12-inch circle on a lightly floured board and transfer to a 9- inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom. Prick bottom of crust with fork, line with aluminum foil, and fill to the top with pie weights or dried beans. Bake in the center of the oven until the edges start to turn golden, about 15 minutes. Remove weights and foil and bake until crust is golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and transfer to rack. Keep oven on at 375˚F for the tart. Make the filling. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter and sauté half the apple slices until they are tender and beginning to brown. Transfer to the tart shell and arrange in a single layer. In the same skillet over medium-high heat, melt the remaining tablespoon of butter and sauté the onions until they are very soft and golden. Add the sugar and the dried thyme, and continue to sauté until the onions are lightly caramelized and any liquid has evaporated. Remove from heat and let cool slightly. Meanwhile, in a medium bowl whisk together eggs, cream, salt and a few grinds of fresh pepper until blended. Stir in the blue cheese, 1 cup of the cheddar cheese, and the onion mixture. Place the prepared tart shell on a baking sheet lined with parchment, and pour in the filling—the shell will be very full. Arrange remaining apple slices on top, and top with remaining 2 tablespoons of cheddar. Bake until top is golden brown and knife inserted in the center comes out clean, 35 to 40 minutes. Transfer to a rack and cool for about 5 to 10 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. 61 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES LORI’S WARM BRIE APPETIZER Contributed by Tina Vierra, this is her friend Lori’s recipe. “I don’t even LIKE Brie very much, but I love this. Everyone loves this—it’s a huge hit at parties.” 1 round double-cream Brie wheel ½ cup light brown sugar Raw walnuts, amount to your taste 3 or 4 firm, crunchy, tart-sweet apples (Fuji or Granny Smith) Slice (but do not peel) apples. Sprinkle some brown sugar and walnuts on the bottom of a baking dish. Cut the wheel of Brie into sections and lay it on top of the sugar and walnuts. Place apple slices into the spaces between the Brie wedges. Cover all with the rest of the brown sugar and more walnuts. Bake at 350°F until melted and gooey, about 15-20 minutes. Serve warm, with crackers and more apple slices. Tester’s notes: This a pretty flexible recipe…you can use different types of apples, different nuts, or maybe add some maple syrup. Great to prepare ahead of time and then just pop in the oven. Definitely a keeper! What sparkling fancies, whirling and foaming from a stout body of thought in that full and ripe champagne! What mild and serene philosophy in that Burgundy ready to shed ‘its sunset glow’ on society and nature! ~Sir Thomas N. Talfourd Posted by Janet Morrissey, a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 62 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES BOB COLLINS Our beloved Bob Pastorio wrote this drink recipe in his unmistakable, entertaining and informative style. “It’s a very unusual drink yet very familiar for a few reasons. Refreshing, light in the mouth, complex. Easy to make. Let’s build one up from the bottom; this can be scaled up for a pitcher. Here’s a place where the booze is absolutely there, but it will absolutely stump the drinkers. It doesn’t taste like there’s gin in it. The combination of flavors blends so completely that lemon is about the only clear flavor anyone will identify.” Makes one tall glass,10 ounces or so 3 ¼-inch thick slices of peeled cucumber 2 ounces gin Ice to top 3 ounces 7-Up or equivalent Sour mix to fill (Daily’s or similar) Grenadine inside around the rim Maraschino cherry to garnish Mull three slices of cucumber in the bottom of a tall glass. That means to drop them into the glass and smoosh/crush them with a wooden spoon, just enough to release a little juice. Add 2 ounces of gin (don’t rush to a judgement yet…) and fill nearly to the top with ice. Pour on about 3 ounces 7-Up and fill to the top with sour mix. To garnish, pour a circle of grenadine around the top of the glass and drop a cherry on top. To make a 64-ounce (½-gallon) pitcher, start with about 5 inches of cucumber sliced ¼-inch thick and mulled. Pour in a pint of gin and slosh around a bit to mix with the cucumber juice. Fill with ice to about 3 inches down from the top. Add 1½ to 2 cans of 7-Up, leaving enough room for sour mix. Add sour mix to 63 APPETIZERS & BEVERAGES fill. Run a circle of either grenadine or crême de cassis around the top, which will sink and make it look pretty. Drop on a handful of cherries and put a bowl of them next to the pitcher. For a party, you can make a punchbowl of this stuff. Float cubes of frozen sour mix with cherries frozen into their centers in the bowl. Top it up with more gin and 7-Up as it goes down. The sour mix will take care of itself. You can lighten the gin content as the evening wears on so you can send a relatively sober group home. Certainly the evening whisky did not take me long. I had the civilian ration of one bottle a month, with two bottles of gin and six bottles of beer. After a painful period of deprivation, I was able, with the help of the Air Force Intelligence officer, to obtain a few extra bottles of Canadian Club, which no one in the Air Force seemed to like, and with the aid of an R.N.V.R. officer, who once a month took his little antisubmarine patrol boat to Bissau in Portuguese Guinea to fetch the Consul’s mail, I was able to obtain demijohns of excellent Portuguese wine, red and white—tasting all the better because no duty had been paid. Gin remained a problem. One type of Canadian gin became the subject of an Admiralty order, so dangerous it proved to be. All bottles had to be dumped overboard, adding to the reef on which the Edinburgh Castle rested. ~Graham Greene Posted by Matthew Hill 64 BREADS & BREAKFAST BREADS & BREAKFAST AMAZING ALMOST NO-KNEAD BREAD The first time Lyn Belisle made this bread, the list received this post from her: “Hi, All, I am so excited! I made a loaf of bread! That may not seem like much, but I am a confirmed non-baker thanks to many bread disasters. However, I saw this method in this month’s Cook’s Illustrated. It involves making a fairly easy ‘almost no-knead’ dough, letting it rise, then baking it inside a Dutch oven that’s been heated to 500˚F. You make the process less scary by transferring everything on parchment paper. “It's unbelievably good - the crust is chewy and awesome. I did the Rosemary Olive Parmesan version and can't wait to do it again. Try it, you'll like it.” 3 cups (15 ounces) unbleached all-purpose flour, plus additional for dusting work surface ½ teaspoon instant yeast 1½ teaspoons table salt 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons water (7 ounces), at room temperature ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) mild-flavored lager 1 tablespoon white vinegar Whisk flour, yeast, and salt in large bowl. Add water, beer, and vinegar. Using rubber spatula, fold mixture, scraping up dry flour from bottom of bowl until shaggy ball forms. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for 8 to 18 hours. Lay 12-by-18-inch sheet of parchment paper inside 10-inch skillet and spray with nonstick cooking spray. Transfer dough to lightly floured work surface and knead 10 to 15 times. Shape dough into ball by pulling edges into middle. Transfer dough, seam-side down, to parchment-lined skillet and spray surface of dough with nonstick cooking spray. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and let rise at room temperature until dough has doubled in size and does not readily spring back when poked with finger, about 2 hours. 66 BREADS & BREAKFAST About 30 minutes before baking, adjust oven rack to lowest position, place 6- to 8-quart heavy-bottomed Dutch oven (with lid) on rack, and heat oven to 500°F. Lightly flour top of dough and, using razor blade or sharp knife, make one 6-inch long, l/2-inch-deep slit along top of dough. Carefully remove pot from oven and remove lid. Pick up dough by lifting parchment overhang and lower into pot (let any excess parchment hang over pot edge). Cover pot and place in oven. Reduce oven temperature to 425°F and bake covered for 30 minutes. Remove lid and continue to bake until loaf is deep brown and instant-read thermometer inserted into center registers 210°F, 20 to 30 minutes longer. Carefully remove bread from pot; transfer to wire rack and cool to room temperature, about 2 hours. ALMOST NO-KNEAD BREAD WITH OLIVES, ROSEMARY, AND PARMESAN Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, adding 4 ounces finely grated Parmesan (about 2 cups) and 1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary to flour mixture in step 1. Add ½ cup pitted, chopped green olives with water in step 1. ALMOST NO-KNEAD WHOLE WHEAT BREAD Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, replacing 1 cup (5 ounces) allpurpose flour with 1 cup (5 ounces) whole wheat flour. Stir 2 tablespoons honey into water before adding it to dry ingredients in step 1. 67 BREADS & BREAKFAST ALMOST NO-KNEAD CRANBERRY-PECAN BREAD Follow recipe for Almost No-Knead Bread, adding ½ cup dried cranberries and ½ cup toasted pecan halves to flour mixture in step 1. Recipe notes from Cook’s Illustrated: Transferring dough to a preheated Dutch oven to bake can be tricky. To avoid burnt fingers and help the dough hold its shape, we came up with a novel solution: Let the dough rise in a skillet (its shallow depth makes it better than a bowl) that’s been lined with greased parchment paper, then use the paper’s edges to pick up the dough and lower it into the Dutch oven. The bread remains on the parchment paper as it bakes. Lyn’s Notes: An enameled cast-iron Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid yields best results, but the recipe also works in a regular cast-iron Dutch oven or heavy stockpot. I used a heavy Le Creuset Dutch oven. Use a mild-flavored lager, such as Budweiser (I used Shiner Bock). The bread is best eaten the day it is baked, but can be wrapped in aluminum foil and stored in a cool, dry place for up to 2 days. This is a loaf of bread that both looks and tastes incredible. With the bread eaten up, up breaks the company. ~Miguel de Cervantes Posted by Janet Morrissey, a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 68 BREADS & BREAKFAST BRACK FOREST BREAD (FOR BREAD MACHINE) Karen Brack wondered, “Does anyone still use their bread machines? If so, here is an original recipe for one. It is actually a variation on one from The Bread Machine Cookbook, by Melissa Clark (my cousin, a little family bragging here).” ⁄3 cup milk 1 egg 5 tablespoons butter 1 ⁄3 cup sugar ¾ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa 21⁄3 cup bread flour 1½ teaspoons yeast ¾ cup dried cherries 2 Bake according to manufacturer’s instructions. Makes a 1 pound loaf. Notes: Tester Janet Morrissey reported this recipe can be started in a bread machine, then baked in a regular oven. “Use dough cycle. Remove from bread maker and place in a greased loaf pan or shape as desired. Let rise until doubled in size. Bake in a preheated 350°F oven for 25 minutes. The first loaf of this bread that I made was gone before I could eat more than one slice (luckily). My husband couldn't leave it alone. The blend of cherry & chocolate in this is much more intense than you would think in a bread. A slice of this bread makes a great breakfast or snack. Dressed up with a little créme anglaise, this makes a very elegant dessert. 69 BREADS & BREAKFAST BONANZA BREAD This one comes from Joanne Schweik. “I love this bread. It is a powerhouse of healthful ingredients and good nutrition. It is delicious with cream cheese, butter, or other spreads.” 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour 1 cup whole wheat flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoon baking powder ½ cup dry milk powder 1 ⁄3 cup wheat germ ½ cup firmly packed brown sugar ¼ cup chopped walnuts ½ cup unsalted dry roasted peanuts, chopped ½ cup raisins 3 eggs ½ cup vegetable oil ½ cup molasses ¾ cup orange juice 2 medium bananas, mashed (1 cup) 1 ⁄3 cup chopped dried apricots Combine flour, salt, soda, baking powder, dry milk, wheat germ, sugar, nuts and raisins in a large bowl. Blend thoroughly with pastry blender or fork. Whirl eggs in container of electric blender until foamy. Add oil, molasses, orange juice and bananas, whirling after each addition. Pour mixture into bowl with dry ingredients, and just mix. Pour into two greased loaf pans. Bake in a slow oven (325°F) for 1 hour, or until center is firm when pressed down lightly with fingertip. (Watch closely so it doesn't get too brown. It may take less than an hour.) 70 BREADS & BREAKFAST Cool slightly in pan on a wire rack, then remove from pan and cool completely. When cool, wrap tightly and store overnight to mellow flavors. (Can be baked in greased muffin cups at 350°F for 20 minutes, or until muffins test done. Onehalf recipe makes 18 muffins.) Variations: Add ½ small orange, including peel, to the liquid ingredients in the blender. Use other nuts in place of walnuts, but don't substitute for the peanuts, in order to get nutritional balance. Substitute raw chopped apples, grated carrot, applesauce, fresh ground apricots, peaches, pears or even grated zucchini instead of bananas. To make several times the recipe, measure out all dry ingredients for each batch onto a separate square of waxed paper. Use them consecutively, or bag and refrigerate for future use. Mix the liquid ingredients for each recipe at time of baking; then add to the dry and pour into the baking pan(s) immediately. Bake enough for several weeks and freeze. A great tip from my wife, Toni. Those of you lucky enough to own juicing machines may have had the same problem I had with the plastic jug supplied. After some months a deposit of tannins and other extracts built up inside, which resisted attempts to remove with hot detergent or any usual other method. In my case, the design of the jug also left areas difficult to access, even with a toothbrush. Toni used her magic standby, bicarbonate of soda, and it worked wonders when applied to a wet brush and used. The first attempt removed most of the deposit; two more and I have a jug that looks brand new. ~Tom McRae, Brisbane, Australia 71 BREADS & BREAKFAST CINNAMON TOAST PANCAKES Janet made these pancakes a tradition for her annual New Year’s Day brunch. Serves 4 Non-stick vegetable cooking spray 2 large eggs ¼ cup water 1 tablespoon no-sugar-added vanilla extract ½ cup almond flour (recipe below) ¼ cup milled flax seed ¼ cup Splenda or equivalent sugar substitute ½ teaspoon baking powder ⅛ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda Cinnamon sprinkle: ¼ teaspoon cinnamon 1 tablespoon sugar substitute (recommended: Splenda) Butter, or fat-free vegetable spread, or fresh berries (optional) for garnish Grease a griddle or large pan with nonstick cooking spray or butter and heat over medium heat. Mix all batter ingredients in a bowl with a wooden spoon until well blended. Pour approximately 16 mini-cakes onto the hot griddle, and cook on the first side for about 3 or 4 minutes until almost done, then flip and cook for just another minute or so to finish. Mix together the cinnamon and sugar substitute and sprinkle over the hot cakes to serve. If desired, top with a pat of melted butter or fat-free margarine and garnish with fresh blueberries and strawberries. 72 BREADS & BREAKFAST Make your own almond flour: Grind 10 ounces whole, raw almonds on high in a food processor for about 3 minutes until you have a grainy flour consistency. Almond flour can be stored in an airtight container up to 1 week on the counter, or several months in the freezer. Notes: Jennie Martin pronounced this a guilt-free treat, great for breakfast or as a dessert. “I used these as a dessert base with two layers of the pancakes, macerated strawberries, and whipped cream. I sprinkled a bit of cinnamon on top. Very good! My husband and kids really loved them, too.” Homer: Lisa, honey, are you saying you are never going to eat any animal again? What about bacon? Lisa: No. Homer: Ham? Lisa: No. Homer: Pork chops? Lisa: Dad! Those all come from the same animal... Homer: Heh, heh, heh. Oh, suuure Lisa. A wonderful, magical animal! ~The Simpsons (writer Matt Groenig) Posted by =Mark 73 BREADS & BREAKFAST CINNAMON ROLLS (OR STICKY BUNS) FOR THE BREAD MACHINE Rosebud told us, “This recipe makes the very best cinnamon rolls ever. I used to make this frequently before I went low carb (now you know why I was prediabetic). I would make the sticky buns, too, but not often because even I had limits. The dough can, of course, be made in the regular fashion, but this is so easy: You can do other things while the bread machine does most of the work.” Dough: 4 cups flour 1 ⁄3 cup sugar 1 teaspoon salt 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1 cup milk 2 eggs, beaten 1 package yeast Filling: 1½ sticks unsalted butter, softened 1¼ cups brown sugar ¼ cup cinnamon ¾ cup nuts, chopped Icing (for cinnamon buns): 1½ cups powdered sugar 2 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 stick unsalted butter, softened 1 teaspoon vanilla ⅛ teaspoon salt 74 BREADS & BREAKFAST Caramel topping (for sticky buns): 1½ cups brown sugar 1½ stick unsalted butter, softened 2 tablespoons corn syrup ¾ cup nuts, chopped Using dough cycle of bread machine, add dough ingredients per bread machine’s specifications. When dough cycle has finished, roll dough out on a floured board to a rectangle approximately 16 by 24 inches. Spread softened butter and sprinkle cinnamon and sugar evenly over surface, then sprinkle with nuts. Very lightly press down with a rolling pin to adhere ingredients to dough. Roll up jelly-roll fashion and cut into 12 rounds. Place in a greased 9-by-3-inch pan and let rise for about 20 to 30 minutes, then bake at 400°F for about 20 minutes. If making sticky buns, add butter, sugar, and corn syrup to saucepan and heat slowly, stirring often. When the sugar is well dissolved, stir in nuts. Pour into pan and place rolls on top. When done, let stand for 2 minutes and then very carefully invert onto a platter or tray and remove the pan. If making cinnamon rolls, combine butter and cream cheese and beat until light and fluffy. Add powdered sugar, salt, and vanilla; beat again until light and fluffy. While the rolls are still hot, spread them with about half of the icing. Spread the rest after they've cooled for about 10 to 15 minutes. Notes: Tester Jennie Martin pronounced these rolls delicious, “next to no work!” and even better than a popular cinnamon roll eatery makes. 75 BREADS & BREAKFAST BROOKLYN GRANDMOM’S DATE NUT BREAD Karen Brack said, “Whenever my grandmother made this bread for our family, my dad and I [playfully] fought over it. She soon learned to make two. She always baked hers in vegetable cans, but a loaf pan will do. Enjoy this bread topped with cream cheese or cottage cheese.” 1¾ cup flour 1 teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup brown sugar ½ cup chopped walnuts ½ cup cut-up dates 2 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla ¾ cup warm water ½ stick butter, melted Preheat oven to 350°F. Sift together dry ingredients in a medium mixing bowl. Add dates and nuts. In small bowl, beat the eggs together with vanilla, water and melted butter. Stir wet ingredients into dry. Pour batter into 2 greased vegetable cans, or one greased loaf pan. Bake for about 50 minutes, or until an inserted toothpick comes out clean. Janet says, “This a very dense, moist bread with great flavor. It went together in 5 minutes. It was very good this morning for breakfast just slightly warmed and spread with a bit of cream cheese.” Go in your room, lock the door, and only let the good guys in! ~Solution to job stress from Emily (age 4) Posted by Laurie Thompson 76 BREADS & BREAKFAST HUSH PUPPIES PUFFS Terry Pogue said, “Don’t you think we need a really good hush puppy recipe in the book? This is a wonderful one. The best light hush puppy I’ve ever had.” Makes about 2 dozen ¾ cup cornmeal ,self rising ¾ cup flour, self rising 1 tablespoon sugar 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon baking soda ¾ cup buttermilk 1 egg, slightly beaten 1 medium onion, finely chopped Slightly beat egg and add buttermilk and onion and stir to mix. Add to combined dry ingredients. Carefully drop batter by tablespoonfuls into deep hot oil; cook only a few at a time, turning once. Fry until hush puppies are golden brown (3 to 5 minutes). Drain well on absorbent towels. Notes: Helen Rundell added cayenne to her ingredients, loving the spicy result. May all the shopping carts be non-wobbly, and all grocery lines be short. ~Terry Pogue 77 BREADS & BREAKFAST LEMON CARROT MUFFINS Pat Belanger gave us this recipe from her late grandmother Adelaide. Makes 6 large muffins 5 cups all purpose flour 1½ teaspoons baking powder 1½ teaspoons baking soda 1½ teaspoons salt ½ cup sliced almonds 1¼ cups golden raisins 4 large carrots, grated (2½ cups) 1 whole lemon 5 eggs 2 cups sugar 1¾ cups vegetable oil Combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. In another bowl combine almonds, raisins and grated carrots. Cut lemon into small sections, puree in blender, and add to the carrot mixture. In a third bowl, combine eggs and sugar, then beat in the oil. Add eggs to the carrot mixture and then fold into the flour. Do not overmix. Bake at 350°F for 25-30 minutes. Notes: Wendy Hunt made these muffins with orange as well as the original lemon. Using another suggestion from Pat, she also made them using 2 cups whole wheat flour, 3 cups white flour, and only 1½ cups of sugar. “They sold out in a flash in my shop, so I didn’t get a chance to taste them!" 78 BREADS & BREAKFAST MAMAN’S CHEESE SOUFFLÉ Gretl Collins found this recipe in Jacques Pepin’s The Apprentice: My Life in the Kitchen. “I bought good quality Gruyère, and I’m sure it makes a difference. I used a Kitchen Aid stand mixer with the balloon whisk to beat the eggs." 6 tablespoons unsalted butter (¾ stick), plus more to butter a gratin dish 6 tablespoons all-purpose flour 2 cups cold whole milk ½ teaspoons salt ½ teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 5 extra-large eggs 2½ cups grated Swiss cheese, preferably Gruyère (about 6 ounces) 3 tablespoons fresh chives, minced Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 6-cup gratin dish and set it aside. Melt the butter in a saucepan, then add the flour, and mix it in well with a whisk. Cook for 10 seconds, add all the milk at once, and mix it in with a whisk. Keep stirring with the whisk until the mixture thickens and comes to a strong boil, about 2 minutes. It should be thick and smooth. Remove from heat and stir in the salt and pepper. Allow about 10 minutes for the white sauce to cool. Meanwhile, break the eggs into a bowl and beat well with a fork. Add eggs, the cheese, and the chives to the cooled sauce, and mix well to combine. Pour into the buttered gratin dish and cook immediately, or set aside until ready to cook. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the soufflé is puffy and well browned on top. Although it will stay inflated for quite a while, it is best served immediately. Tester Janet Morrissey said, “When I saw this recipe, I wondered how this could be a soufflé without egg whites and was a bit hesitant about making it. To my surprise, it puffed up almost as much as if there were egg whites in it.” 79 BREADS & BREAKFAST ROSEMARY MUFFINS Terry Pogue’s savory-sweet muffins will surprise your guests. They are perfect for breakfast, brunch, tea parties, or if you’re like Maryellen, you’ll try them after dinner with a nice Sauternes. Makes 12 1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary ¼ cup cup golden raisins ¼ cup raisins ¼ cup currants ¾ cup milk 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1½ cups flour ½ cup sugar 2 teaspoons baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt 1 large egg, lightly beaten 4 ounces goat cheese (8 tablespoons) or 4 ounces cream cheese, cut into ¾-inch cubes and crumbled Preheat oven to 350°F. Lightly grease a muffin pan. Combine rosemary, raisins, currants, and milk in a small saucepan. Simmer 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Add butter and stir until melted. Let cool. (To cool quickly, place pan in refrigerator about 10 minutes.) Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Mix until combined. Set aside. Slowly add beaten egg to cooled milk mixture. When combined, add to dry mixture. Mix until dry ingredients are moistened. Spoon one third batter into muffin cups. Place 2 teaspoons goat cheese in center of batter, dividing among cups. Top with remaining batter. Bake 20 minutes, or until golden brown and springy in centers. Muffins can be served hot or at room temperature. 80 BREADS & BREAKFAST Terry’s notes: I used fromage blanc. I didn't have golden raisins so I just omitted this ingredient but continued with the recipe. I think the combination of black raisins and currents is really very nice –much better than raisins alone. Don't worry if the milk mixture gets a bit funky looking. It smooths out with the addition of the butter and works fine in the recipe. Weave a circle round him thrice, And close your eyes in holy dread, For he on honeydew hath fed, And drunk the milk of Paradise. ~S.T.Coleridge, Kubla Khan Posted by Janet Morrissey a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 81 BREADS & BREAKFAST PEAR GINGER MUFFINS Gretl Collins says, “I think Wendy’s Pear and Ginger Muffins are WLF!” (WLF is list-speak for “worth living for.”) Makes 12-18 muffins 1¾ cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 2 ⁄3 cup firmly packed brown sugar 1 teaspoon ground ginger 1 tablespoon peeled and grated fresh ginger 2 ⁄3 cup finely chopped crystallized ginger 2 large eggs 1 cup whole milk 6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1¼ cups chopped peeled pear In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar, ground ginger, fresh ginger and 1⁄3 cup crystallized ginger. Set aside. In another bowl, whisk the eggs until blended. Stir in the milk and butter. Pour over dry ingredients and stir with a rubber spatula just until moistened. Fold in chopped pear. Do not over-mix. Spoon into muffin cups, sprayed or paper liners. Sprinkle remaining crystallized ginger evenly over the tops. Bake until done! Wendy's notes: Recipe says 425°F for 15-18 minutes. I always bake muffins at 350°F (I have a convection oven) until they are done with a toothpick test. With regard to the whole milk, I've used 2% and 1% and both work just fine. I usually double the recipe to get between 12 and 18 large muffins. 82 BREADS & BREAKFAST TERRY’S BEST PANCAKES Bob Coomler said of Terry’s cakes, “Nothing fancy here, but this is how pancakes are supposed to be!” 1 cup flour ¼ cup cornmeal ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 egg 1½ cups buttermilk Combine dry ingredients. Beat egg and mix with buttermilk. Combine all and cook as usual. Tester Helen Rundell reported these were the nicest, lightest pancakes she’s ever made. “Lightning quick, and glides from griddle to mouth in one luscious, feathery light bite!” Wisdom from Wolves One evening an old Cree told his grandson about a battle that goes on inside people. He said, My son, the battle is between two Wolves inside us all. One is Evil. It is anger, envy, jealousy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, selfpity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority, and ego. The other is Good. It is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion and faith. The grandson thought about it for a minute and then asked his grandfather: Which wolf wins? The old Cree simply replied, The one you feed. Posted by Greg Walker 83 BREADS & BREAKFAST ZIPLOC OMELET It’s not always serious and gourmet with our list. Scientific experiments in the name of good food are also common. The Ziploc omelet, originally posted by Pat Belanger, took the list by storm. Crack 2 eggs (large or extra-large, not more than 2!) into a Ziploc bag, and shake to combine them. Put out a variety of ingredients such as: cheeses, ham, onion, green pepper, tomato, salsa, etc. Each person adds prepared ingredients of choice to their bag and shakes. Make sure to get the air out of the bag, and zip it up. Place the bags into rolling, boiling water for exactly 13 minutes. You can usually cook 6-8 omelets in a large pot. For more, make another pot of boiling water. Open the bags and the omelet will roll out easily. Be prepared for everyone to be amazed. Nice to serve with fresh fruit and coffee cake; everyone gets involved in the process, and it's a great conversation piece. Just a few of the list comments about this recipe: “I think this should be in the cookbook! We’ve done it dozens of times and it’s always fun, with something for everyone.” “This works great! Good for when all your family is together. The best part is that no one has to wait for their special omelet. Have each person write their name on a quart-size Ziploc freezer bag with permanent marker.” 84 SOUPS SOUPS BLACK BEAN CHILI Carol Peterson says, “This is just good, old-fashioned Midwestern-style chili, with a twist.” Tester Janet Morrissey adds, “The mix of ground meat and stew beef made the texture much better than a chili made from just one or the other.” Janet used Eden black soy beans and couldn’t tell it was ‘“low-carb” chili. Yields 4 quarts 1 pound ground chuck 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, to coat stew meat 1½ pounds beef stew meat, cut into ½-inch cubes 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 medium green pepper, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely minced 1 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes 3 16-ounce cans black beans, drained 5 teaspoons chili powder ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 teaspoon salt Water, as needed Place the flour in a bowl. Add stew meat and toss to cover all pieces evenly. Starting with the ground beef (which will render fat to keep the stew meat from sticking to the pan later), brown the meat in a 4-quart saucepan. Add onion and green pepper; cook until onion is translucent. Add garlic and cook for about 2 more minutes. Drain off any excess fat. Add tomatoes, beans, and spices. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes, or until stew meat is tender. If chili is too thick, add water as needed. Adjust seasonings and serve. Serving suggestions: Accompany with saltines or oyster crackers, shredded cheddar, Monterey jack, or other cheese, and/or chopped onions. 86 SOUPS BLACK BEAN SOUP Contributor Terry Pogue makes this “soup” thick and serves it as a side dish. This is her and her husband’s favorite black bean recipe, Terry says. “Maybe it’s the bacon. Everything is better with bacon. Okay, you could probably use turkey bacon, if you must.” Carol Peterson adds, “You’d have to try very hard to mess this recipe up. This soup is going to become a regular at our house.” Serves 6 10 slices bacon, finely chopped 2 medium onions 6 cloves garlic, finely chopped 1 14½-ounce can chicken stock 1½ cups canned tomatoes, chopped 2 tablespoons ketchup 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon chili powder 4 15½-ounce cans black beans, drained but not rinsed Salt and black pepper 1 bunch cilantro, chopped coarsely Juice of ½ lime Optional garnishes: Thinly sliced scallions, sour cream, grated cheddar Cook bacon in a large pot until it starts to render its fat, about 3 minutes. Add onions and cook, stirring, until they start to turn translucent. Add the garlic and cook until you can smell it, being careful not to burn it. Add broth, tomatoes, ketchup, Worcestershire, and chili powder. Stir in the beans, turn the heat to high and bring to a boil. Adjust the heat so the soup is bubbling gently and cook 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, stir in chopped cilantro. Cook until the soup is thickened, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the lime juice. Serve topped with optional garnishes. 87 SOUPS CHIPOTLE CHICKEN AND VEGGIE SOUP Mark Stevens created this soup after sampling some regional style soup during a trip to the Fiery Foods Festival in New Mexico. Serves 20-25 1 6-pound roasting chicken 1 32-ounce can chicken stock 1 cup coarsely chopped celery 1 cup diced red bell pepper 1 cup sliced carrots 2 medium onions, coarsely chopped 1 cup corn kernels 1 16-ounce can diced tomato 1 cup chipotles in adobo sauce ½ teaspoon thyme Cracked black pepper to taste Salt to taste (or heavy Chinese soy sauce) Roast chicken in oven till done; cool overnight. Debone, saving all bones and scraps. Cut meat into bite-size bits, removing fat and gristle. Refrigerate. Put bones and carcass in a large stock pot along with veggie peelings, carrot butts, onion skins, etc., and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 2 to 3 hours, skimming any foam and stirring occasionally. Strain through a colander and return stock to pot. Add celery, bell pepper, corn, onions, carrots and the canned stock and bring to a simmer. Cook until veggies begin to turn tender. Add chicken and canned tomato. While soup returns to a simmer, put about a cup of it in a food processor with the chipotles and adobo. Whir it up for about 30 seconds or until the peppers are well pureed. Add salt, pepper and thyme to the soup, then start adding the chipotle puree about a quarter cup at a time, stirring and tasting for the desired 88 SOUPS pungency. Using all of it makes for a Chileheads delight, but may be too much for some gringos to handle! Notes: This makes a big old pot full which would probably serve 20 or 25 people. Good for freezing and serving at a later time. You could use all canned stock and one of those rotisserie chickens from the store, but my life is dull and I got nothin’ better to do. On rainy days alone I dine Upon a chick and pint of wine. On rainy days I dine alone And pick my chicken to the bone; But this my servants much enrages, No scraps remain to save board wages In weather fine I nothing spend, But often sponge upon a friend; Yet, where he’s not so rich as I, I pay my club, and so goodbye. ~On Himself by Jonathan Swift Posted by Matthew Hill 89 SOUPS BRUSSELS SPROUTS SOUP Terry Pogue relates that her husband David found this recipe in the New York Times many years ago. “This hearty soup is wonderful on a cold winter evening. Fast and tasty even if you think you hate Brussels sprouts. I promise.” Beatrice Powell reports that the soup freezes well too. Serves 4 as a main course 1 tablespoon oil ½ to ¾ pounds kielbasa (low-fat if you like) 1 medium onion, cubed 1 large russet potato, peeled and cubed 1 10-ounce package frozen Brussels sprouts 4 cups chicken stock Salt and pepper Cut the kielbasa into half moons to fit on a spoon. Cube the potatoes and onions, just small enough to also fit on a spoon. Thaw the Brussels sprouts and pulse in food processor about 3 times. You want nice (but not mashed) pieces, with a few of them remaining almost whole. Put the oil in a sauce pan, add the kielbasa and sauté for 3 minutes to render some of the fat. And the potato and onion and sauté for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the chicken stock and simmer until the potato is just tender, about 15 minutes. Add the cut Brussels sprouts and simmer for 5 minutes. Terry’s notes: Sometimes I add some whole Brussels sprouts to the pot so that each bowl gets a few whole ones. If you want to do this you will probably want two 10-ounce packages of frozen Brussels sprouts, or a few fresh ones. I make this soup with all fresh Brussels sprouts if available, but the cooking times will be a bit longer. Proportions of each ingredient are very flexible. 90 SOUPS ORANGE BLOSSOM LENTIL BARLEY SOUP Food store owner Wendy Hunt says of this recipe from Sheila Foster, “I have made it, sold it and received good feedback!” 1½ cups red lentils 1⁄3 cup pearl barley ½ russet potato, sliced ½ cup chopped onion (or 2 tablespoons dried onion flakes) 1 tablespoon dried parsley (or ¼ cup fresh parsley, chopped) 1¾ teaspoons chili powder ½ teaspoon cumin powder ½ teaspoon coriander powder ¾ teaspoon dried oregano ¼ teaspoon garlic flakes 4 cups chicken broth 2 cups water ½ cup orange juice Put all ingredients except orange juice into slow cooker and cook on low for 6 hours. Add more water if soup gets too thick. Stir in orange juice before serving. Stove-top instructions: Put all ingredients except potato and orange juice into a 3-quart (or larger) saucepan. Bring to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to simmer. Cook for 1 hour. Add potato and simmer for another half hour. Stir in orange juice before serving. Non-cooks think it’s silly to invest two hours’ work in two minutes’ enjoyment; but if cooking is evanescent, so is the ballet. ~Julia Child Posted by Terry Pogue 91 SOUPS COLD BEET BORSCHT Contributor Karen Brack tells this story: “When my great-grandmother brought her family of eight children over to America from Russia, hers was one of the few intact families to make the crossing. Once settled in Philadelphia, fellow passengers from the boat would show up on the doorstep for Sunday suppers, homesick for the family atmosphere. My mother once asked her how on earth she managed to feed all those people; they were poor, after all. ‘Nu,’ she replied, ‘A nickel gets you a sack of potatoes. Another nickel, a sack of onions. A dime for a bag of beets, a nickel for some lemons and some sugar. For a quarter you make latkes and borscht for an army.’ “I’m not sure if this is her recipe, but it’s a good one. Aerating the soup is an unusual technique, but it really makes a difference in the finished soup. This recipe is great for a summer brunch or garden party. Serve the soup and allow people to personalize their portions with an array of garnishes.” Janet Morrissey says the foamy, creamy texture is really different. Along with the refreshing flavor and lovely color, it made the soup a big hit with her guests. 4 medium or 3 large fresh beets Juice of two lemons Pinch of salt 5 cups water 4 egg yolks Pinch sugar, if needed Salt and pepper to taste Wash and peel beets and finely dice, julienne, or shred in a processor. Place in pot with half the lemon juice, the salt and water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer until beets are tender (about 30 minutes). Remove from heat. Beat egg yolks until thin and watery. Slowly ladle some hot soup into the eggs, beating constantly. After adding half the soup, pour mixture back into pot, pouring slowly and beating constantly. When all the egg mixture has been added, pour soup back and forth between pot and a bowl or pitcher about 15 92 SOUPS times, until mixture is smooth, airy and creamy. Be careful about splashing, unless you really like the color pink! Midway through, taste and add more lemon, sugar, salt and pepper to taste. Continue pouring to blend. Chill thoroughly. Optional garnishes: sour cream, snipped fresh dill, diced peeled and seeded cucumber, chopped scallions, diced boiled potatoes, sliced hard boiled eggs. Still, no other group could claim such a bunch. I hereby dub all who work on the cookbook to be officially designated as Wayout Lizards. Someone needs to make up badges and sashes and stuff. I’d do it, but I’m the Big Picture Guy. It’s my middle name. ~Robert B.P.G. Pastorio 93 SOUPS GRILLED SHRIMP AND SMOKEY CHILLED GAZPACHO Janet Morrissey nominated this dish, posted by Mark Stevens. Janet says, “I made this with all local ingredients from the farmers’ market and it was so bright and fresh. A great dish for a hot evening. I think this gazpacho would also be good topped with sliced grilled chicken breast or pork.” Serves 8 1½ pounds 20-count shrimp, peeled and cleaned For the soup: 6 ripe tomatoes, peeled and chopped 1 purple onion, finely chopped 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, chopped 1 sweet red bell pepper seeded and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 to 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 2 teaspoons sugar Salt and fresh ground pepper to taste Minced chipotle peppers to taste 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce 4 cups tomato juice Sour cream for garnish Sliced avocado for garnish 94 SOUPS Combine all soup ingredients. Blend slightly, to desired consistency. Place in non-metal, non-reactive storage container, cover tightly and refrigerate overnight, allowing flavors to blend. Skewer or place shrimp in a grill basket. Grill on high heat till just done, about 90 seconds per side. Spoon soup into small bowls, top with 4 or 5 shrimp in each bowl. Try not to submerge them. Serve with sliced avocado and sour cream for garnish. A monastery in England, having fallen on hard times, decides to open a fish-and-chips restaurant. A visitor comes across two of monks working in the monastery kitchen preparing for the evening meal. One monk is frying the fish, the second one is peeling, slicing, and frying the potatoes. What are you guys doing? asks the visitor. Well, says the first monk, I am the friar, and he is the chip monk. Posted by the stray grey mouse 95 SOUPS OYSTER SOUP WITH COCONUT MILK AND CHILES Tester Denny Arar reports, “This soup reminded me of Tom Kha Kai soup at Thai restaurants, but with oysters instead of chicken and mushrooms.” Serves 4 1 pint shucked oysters (about 16), including their liquor 1 cup bottled clam juice 1½ cups canned unsweetened coconut milk 1 jalapeño chile, quartered lengthwise 3 green onions, thinly sliced Zest of ½ lime 2 tablespoons lime juice ¼ cup chopped fresh basil ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 teaspoon salt, or to taste Strain oysters over saucepan and reserve the liquor. Add the clam juice to the oyster liquor along with the coconut milk, jalapeño, green onions and lime zest. Simmer for 5 minutes. Add the oysters and lime juice; simmer gently until the edges of the oysters curl, about 2 minutes. Stir in the basil, cilantro and salt. Serve immediately. The eldest Oyster winked his eye, And shook his heavy head— Meaning to say he did not choose To leave the oyster-bed. ~Lewis Carroll Posted by Tina V. 96 SOUPS SAUSAGE, SPINACH AND WHITE BEAN SOUP Chris Babcock nominated this recipe, originally posted by Patrick Gerding. “This is another one of my all-time favorite Foodwine recipes. I make this often during the winter months. It freezes really well and has become one of our camping favorites because I can make it ahead, freeze it, and let it thaw in the cooler while keeping everything else cool!“ 1 12-ounce tube of sage sausage (I use Owens) 10 sage leaves, minced (or 1 teaspoon dried sage) 1 onion, chopped 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 14-ounce cans cannellini beans (or any white bean) 2 small cans chicken broth, plus more if needed ½ cup orzo (or other tiny pasta) 1 10-ounce package frozen chopped spinach ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese Brown the crumbled sausage in a large soup pot. Add onion and garlic; sauté until onion is transparent. Add the sage and stir well. Add beans and broth. Add more chicken broth or water to cover all the ingredients. Let the soup simmer for at least half an hour. Add orzo and simmer until the pasta is tender. At this point you can cool the soup and refrigerate or freeze. If you plan to give the soup to someone else, add the spinach and simmer for 10 minutes before freezing. Otherwise, when ready to serve, thaw and bring to a simmer, and then add the spinach and simmer again. Add salt and pepper to taste; just before serving add Parmesan cheese and stir well. Chris Babcock’s notes: “I add the Parmesan to each bowl instead of the pot. I think the original recipe called for Italian sausage instead of the tube stuff. I like the increased sage flavor of the tube, but I have also added half-moons of hot Italian sausage as a variation.” 97 SOUPS SCOTCH BROTH Pat Belanger nominated this recipe from a book of Mary Moore cooking columns. “This is an excellent, hearty, fat-free recipe… I often double it.” Joanne Schweik adds, “This is a marvelously easy recipe, and the flavor is outstanding. Lovely for a cold winter night.” 2 tablespoons pearl barley Cold water 1½ pounds stewing lamb or large lamb shank 1½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon thyme ¼ teaspoon basil 1 clove garlic, thinly sliced 1 cup finely chopped celery 1 cup diced potatoes ½ cup diced carrots ½ cup chopped onion 1 cup tomato juice 2 chicken bouillon cubes Soak barley in ½ cup water for several hours or overnight. Brown lamb in Dutch oven. Add 2½ cups water, salt, pepper, thyme, basil and garlic. Cover and simmer for 1½ hours, then strain into a large bowl, chill, and remove fat. Cut meat from bones. Return broth to pot; add meat, soaked barley and liquid, celery, carrots, potatoes and onion. Simmer for 45 minutes. Add tomato juice, chicken bouillon cubes and 2 more cups of water. Stir well, bring to a boil and serve. 98 SOUPS SORREL SOUP “This is my favorite summer soup. Served chilled, it is marvelous—tangy, different, smooth, and a bit of heaven,” says Joanne Schweik. “It comes originally from Nora Ephron’s novel Heartburn, which was a delight because in the bittersweet story of divorce she included recipes at appropriate moments, thus making an eminently readable novel.” Yields 20 small or 10 large servings 4 cups washed sorrel, with stems carefully trimmed 4 tablespoons butter 2½ quarts chicken stock 4 chopped, peeled potatoes Red pepper flakes Salt and pepper Juice of 1 lemon 1 to 2 cups heavy cream, half and half, or nonfat half and half Garnish: lemon slices, croutons, chives or parsley Sauté the sorrel in the butter until wilted. Add chicken stock and potatoes. Simmer 45 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Let cool, add red pepper flakes, and puree in a blender. Add salt and pepper, the lemon juice, and heavy cream, half and half, or nonfat half and half. Chill several hours or overnight and serve cold, garnished to taste with suggested items. Adjust seasoning after chilling; it may need more. 99 SOUPS SPICY PUMPKIN SOUP WITH MEXICAN CREMA AND TOASTED PEPITAS Beatrice Powell nominated this southwestern recipe from contributor Lyn Belisle. “This soup is wonderful. So wonderful that I have a good chunk of freezer space dedicated to it at the moment!” Lyn says that the crunchy, green hulled pumpkin seeds, or pepitas, add delightful texture to this smooth soup. Serves 8 Mexican crema, Cacique brand or make a substitute by blending the next three ingredients per recipe) ½ cup whipping cream ½ cup sour cream 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice 6 tablespoons (¾ stick) butter 2 finely chopped small onions 2 15-ounce cans solid pack pumpkin 2 cups whole milk 1 teaspoons dried crushed red pepper ½ teaspoon ground cumin seed 6 cups canned low-salt chicken broth, or 1 49-ounce can ½ cup shelled pumpkin seeds (pepitas), toasted If making crema, whisk whipping cream, sour cream and lime juice in a small bowl. Cover; chill at least two hours or up to a week ahead. Melt butter in heavy large pot over medium heat. Add onions and sauté until translucent, about 10 minutes. Mix in pumpkin, milk, cumin and crushed red pepper. Working in batches, puree mixture in processor. Return to pot. Add broth; simmer 10 minutes to blend flavors, stirring occasionally. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 1 day ahead to this point.) Ladle simmering soup into bowls. Drizzle with cream. Sprinkle with pumpkin seeds. 100 SOUPS SPICY SPLIT PEA SOUP Tester Pat Belanger loved this recipe nominated by Carol Peterson. 2 tablespoons olive oil, or more if needed ½ pound pepperoni, cut into ½-inch cubes 5 medium carrots, sliced ¼-inch thick 1 medium onion, chopped fine 1 clove garlic, smashed and chopped 16 ounces dried split peas 5 cups water (or chicken or vegetable broth) ⅛ teaspoon ground allspice ⅛ teaspoon ground cloves ¼ teaspoon ground pepper ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon dried thyme 1 bay leaf Heat olive oil at medium temperature in a small frying pan. Add pepperoni to the olive oil, frying until browned; remove to large saucepan. Add onions and garlic to the remaining oil. Sauté until onions become translucent, then add to the saucepan. Place dry split peas into the saucepan, along with the water. Add carrots, then stir in the herbs and spices. Bring to a boil, and reduce heat to low. Cook, covered, for 45-60 minutes, or until peas just begin to break down. Add more water, if necessary. Remove bay leaf before serving. 101 SOUPS STAR ANISE-SCENTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP WITH GINGER CREAM Janet Morrissey says, “My friend John and I made this for my birthday dinner back in February and it was amazing. I was really happy that we had enough left for my lunch the day after. The original used sweet potatoes and onions rather than butternut squash and shallots.” Sheila Foster remarks, “The recipe is excellent and the spicing is unusual.” Sheila added a little salt and increased the amount of chicken stock to thin it a bit. 2 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup chopped shallots 2 teaspoons grated fresh ginger 4 star anise pods (or about 2 teaspoons of star anise pieces) 2½ pounds butternut squash, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 1 cup water ½ cup heavy cream or half-and-half Roast the butternut squash pieces in a 375°F oven until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Melt butter in a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are softened and translucent. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in the ginger. Add the butternut squash and stir to combine. Add the chicken broth and water, and mix well, scraping up any browned bits that may have adhered to the pot. Put the star anise in a tea ball and add to pot. Increase the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer, uncovered, until butternut squash are completely tender, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat. Allow soup to cool slightly. Remove the tea ball with the star anise pods. 102 SOUPS Carefully puree soup in batches in a blender or food processor until very smooth. Return to pot over medium-low heat and stir in the heavy cream. Serve soup in warmed bowls, and top with a tablespoon of Ginger Cream (reipde follows). GINGER CREAM 6 tablespoons creme fraiche 1/4 teaspoon grated fresh ginger While the soup is simmering, make the ginger cream. In a small bowl, combine the creme fraiche and grated ginger. Mix well. Chill until ready to use. JJ asked: “How long may one expect properly-stored fresh ginger root to last in the refrigerator? If the refrigerator is not the proper place to store ginger root, what is a good mouseproof, ant-proof “shelf” method of storage?” Blake Olson replied: “Vodka, gin, or Everclear....” Tina V. said: “I actually store mine in the freezer. The downside is that I usually have to defrost it for a good 15 minutes or so prior to peeling and using it. The upside is, it keeps for up to a year at max flavor. I found this out because there was a ginger root lost in the depths of my freezer for months--by the date I had written on the plastic, the root had been there almost a year. I defrosted and used it for dinner that night. Still pretty close to the original fresh, bright ginger flavor.” And Jeanie said: “I keep mine in the freezer, but don’t wait to defrost it. It microplanes nicely when frozen, and peels easily.” 103 SOUPS STILTON SOUP Chris Marksberry nominated this recipe for inclusion. “This is a recipe that appeared on Foodwine quite some time ago. I believe Helen Rundell originally posted it. Very nice for you blue cheese lovers out there.” Yields 4 small servings 1¼ cups milk 1 bay leaf ¼ cup sliced onion 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons unbleached flour 2 cups chicken stock 4 ounces (about half a cup) Stilton cheese Salt and pepper Bring the milk, bay leaf and onion to the boil. Remove from the heat, cover and leave to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain. Melt the butter in a large saucepan, stir in the flour and cook, stirring, for one minute. Remove the pan from the heat and gradually pour in the milk, stirring constantly. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring, for one minute, then add the stock. Bring the soup to the boil, then let it simmer for five minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the cheese. Stir until the cheese melts, then season with pepper and salt if necessary. 104 SOUPS THAI CORN SOUP Tester Joan Waldron says, “This excellent soup from Gretl Collins was a snap to make. I thought that much sesame oil would be overpowering, but it wasn’t. I use a lot of sesame oil, buy it in half-gallon cans, but was still surprised. I loved it…Rob [Joan’s husband] hated it. I guess he doesn’t like cilantro!” Serves 4 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 2 teaspoons sesame oil 2 or 3 scallions, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, minced 2½ cups vegetable stock 1 15-ounce can cream-style corn 2 cups peeled, cooked small shrimp 6 Kaffir lime leaves, julienned 1 teaspoon Crystal hot sauce 1 tablespoon sweet Vietnamese chili sauce Salt and freshly ground pepper Cilantro leaves, for garnish Heat the vegetable oil in a large saucepan; saute onion and garlic over medium-high heat until softened. Stir in sesame oil, stock, cream-style corn, shrimp, kaffir lime leaves, and chili sauce. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Season to taste with the salt and pepper, add cilantro leaves and cook briefly. Add more cilantro leaves as garnish floating on the soup. Gretl’s notes: The addition of a little coconut milk toward the end would be divine. I buy the Kaffir lime leaves when they look nice and fresh—that is, dark glossy green—at Wegmans market. 105 SOUPS TOMATO FLORENTINE SOUP Wendy Hunt’s staff made this for her store using fresh tomatoes. Testers note you might want to add some salt if your chicken broth doesn’t have it. Serves four as a first course or two as a main course. 2 tablespoons olive oil ½ cup onion, diced 1 teaspoon garlic, minced 1 cup crushed tomatoes 1 cup tomatoes, diced 2 cups chicken broth ¾ cup fresh spinach, chopped ¼ cup red wine 1 tablespoon diced basil 1½ teaspoons finely chopped oregano 2 ounces prosciutto (or country ham), diced (optional) Romano cheese, grated Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan. Add the onion and garlic and cook until just soft. Add the crushed tomatoes, diced tomatoes, broth, spinach, wine and herbs. Bring to a boil and then reduce heat to simmer for 35 minutes. Add the prosciutto and simmer 10 minutes longer. Serve warm, garnished with the Romano cheese. Wendy’s notes: I usually make this in the winter and use canned tomatoes, but it’s even better in the summer with fresh tomatoes. It’s so good and so easy. 106 SALADS SALADS 107 SALADS AEGEAN RICE SALAD Lyn Belisle nominated this recipe. “This cold rice salad is just perfect for picnics. I make it every year for the Flowers and Fireworks celebration at the Botanical Garden during Fiesta week in San Antonio. It keeps very well and is excellent at room temperature (or outdoors, where we watch the fireworks and have a late night picnic with friends—it even stands up to dining by flashlight).” Serves 6 For the lime vinaigrette: 2 large garlic cloves, crushed ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup lime juice ¼ cup fresh dill weed (or equivalent dried, but better with fresh) For the salad: 1 cup raw rice ½ cup Kalamata olives, pitted ½ cup chopped scallions 1 medium cucumber, peeled and sliced thin ½ cup fresh parsley sprigs, packed 1 cup crumbled feta cheese Freshly ground pepper to taste For the garnish: 5 or 6 cup-shaped Boston or romaine lettuce leaves (optional) Mix all the ingredients for the vinaigrette and reserve. Cook the rice in a very large pot of rapidly boiling salted water for 15 to 20 minutes, or until tender but slightly firm. Drain and rinse. Combine the rice and half the lime vinaigrette and let stand until the mixture reaches room temperature. Mix in the remaining ingredients and the rest of the vinaigrette and chill. 108 SALADS Before serving, arrange the lettuce leaves on a platter and fill each with a portion of the salad, or serve the salad from a glass bowl. Tester Chris Babcock added extra salt because the rice soaked it up. “I really like the flavor of dill and would add some more chopped to the salad. I also will add more of the chopped scallion next time as I like crunch in this type of salad. It improved with chilling.” Come into the Cave, have a drink from the champagne fountain. In the Cave, all things are possible…especially if chocolate is involved. Sounds like you take the engineering approach to cooking, following a recipe exactly, nothing in the world wrong with that. Some of us take a somewhat more amorphous approach…recipe? You mean there is a recipe? Then there is me, Oh, I think I’ll add a bit of this, a dash of that, a dollop of something else…wouldn’t wasabi be good in this; maybe butterscotch chips… Thanks for piping up and letting us know you are round, I mean around. Posted by Dan, The Scarlet Wombat, on welcoming a new list member 109 SALADS BLOCK PARTY PEPPER SALAD Pat Belanger nominated this recipe posted by Joanne Schweik. “I first served this at our street block party; it is delicious. Serve it as a salad on a buffet, or as an antipasto with good crusty bread and, perhaps, a strong-flavored cheese.” Serves a crowd 3 red bell peppers 3 green bell peppers 3 yellow bell peppers 1 pound fresh green beans 2 1-pound cans light or dark kidney beans (or chick peas or cannellini beans) 1 large red onion, halved and sliced ¾ head small cauliflower, cut into florets 12 medium radishes, sliced Dressing: ¾ cup olive or vegetable oil (or half and half of each) ¼ cup balsamic vinegar (or red wine vinegar) ½ teaspoon dry mustard 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed 1 teaspoon dried basil, crushed Seed all peppers and cut into 1-inch squares. Blanch each color pepper separately, drain, rinse in cold water, and pat dry on paper towels. Cook green beans in large amount of salted water until crisp-tender. Drain, rinse in cold water and dry on paper towels. Place peppers, green beans, kidney beans (drained), onion, cauliflower, and radishes in a large bowl. (Glass is nice, to show the rainbow of colors.). 110 SALADS Dressing: Put all ingredients in a jar, cover tightly and shake until well mixed. Pour dressing over salad and toss gently until everything is coated. Cover and refrigerate at least 4 hours to blend flavors. Mix gently with a fork several times during chilling to make sure dressing flavors everything. Adjust vinegar and seasonings to taste. Bring salad to room temperature to serve. Tester Pat Belanger notes: “This salad looks absolutely gorgeous in a glass bowl, with the red, green, and gold colors. It’s also a very healthy recipe and it makes a large quantity. It also keeps very well. A definite keeper!” A real friend knows when to listen, when to stop listening, when to talk, when to stop talking, when to pour the wine, when to stop pouring and just hand over the bottle. Posted by Lynn VH and Jennifer Kosco 111 SALADS APPLE & WALNUT SALAD WITH MAPLE DRESSING Beatrice Powell nominated this recipe posted by Terry Pogue: “I’ve made it again and again, often varying the fruit and nuts that are in it. It’s always a hit!” Serves 6 1 5-ounce bag mixed greens 2 Granny Smith apples (peeled, cored, cut into matchsticks) ½ cup currants (original recipe called for dried cherries) ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts Dressing: ¼ cup mayonnaise (I use light) ¼ cup maple syrup 3 tablespoons white vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar ¼ cup vegetable oil Combine first four dressing ingredients, then slowly whisk in oil. Dressing can be made up to 3 days ahead, cover and refrigerate. Re-whisk before using, if necessary. Mix the greens and apples (unless you have very small apples, you will find you have more apple than you need), then toss with dressing (you will also have left-over dressing). Plate the salad, then top with currants and walnuts. The recipe doesn’t say to serve that way, but the first time I tossed everything together, and the small stuff wasn’t distributed evenly. Tester Wendy Hunt used baby spinach and it worked well. “I also roasted the walnuts as I thought they might last longer before going soggy. This recipe is simple and flexible, likely better served immediately rather than the next day.” 112 SALADS BLT SALAD WITH BASIL MAYONNAISE DRESSING Rosebud nominated this recipe. “It makes a beautiful salad for either lunch or a light dinner—crisp, tangy and delicious, especially in the summer when the tomatoes are at their peak. The dressing is also good with cooked, chilled chopped broccoli or chilled quartered Brussels sprouts.” Serves 4 ½ pound bacon ½ cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar ¼ cup finely chopped fresh basil 4 slices French bread, cut into 1/2 -inch pieces 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon canola oil 1 pound romaine lettuce, rinsed, dried, and torn into bite-size pieces 1 pint cherry tomatoes, quartered Place bacon in a large, deep skillet. Cook over medium high heat until evenly brown. Drain, crumble and set aside, reserving 2 tablespoons of the drippings. In a small bowl, whisk together the reserved bacon drippings, mayonnaise, vinegar and basil. Let the dressing stand, covered, at room temperature. In a large skillet over medium heat, toss the bread with salt and pepper. Drizzle with oil, continue tossing over medium-low heat until golden brown. In a large bowl mix together the romaine, tomatoes, bacon and croutons. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss well. Tester Lyn Belisle noted that she would add chopped green onion. “It’s amazing —tastes just like a BLT but is easier to eat. Would be great for a picnic.” 113 SALADS BROCCOLI SALAD Rosebud nominated this salad. "It has a nice variety of tastes and textures," and can be made several hours ahead for picnics and cookouts.. 4 cups broccoli florets, cut into small pieces ½ pound bacon ½ cup apple, diced ¼ cup red onion, diced ¼ cup raisins ¼ cup sunflower seeds 1½ cups mayonnaise 4 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup sugar (or to taste; I use Splenda) Cook the bacon until crispy. Drain on paper towels and crumble. Toss together the apple, onion, raisins, sunflower seeds and bacon. Add to the broccoli in a large bowl. Mix in the mayonnaise, lemon juice, and sugar. Pour over the broccoli mixture and lightly toss to coat. Add salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour before serving. Broccoli would be better if it were made of meat and slathered in BBQ sauce. ~an ad for KC Masterpiece BBQ sauce Posted by Terry Pogue 114 SALADS CHOPPED SALAD WITH SALSA VERDE DRESSING This recipe, nominated by Robyn, works great on its own or served alongside grilled fish, chicken or steak. Serves 4 3 husked, quartered tomatillos 1⁄3 cup (lightly packed) cilantro 5 tablespoons fresh lime juice 1 teaspoon chopped jalapeño chili 1 garlic clove, peeled 6 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ cup finely chopped green onions 2½ cups chopped romaine lettuce 2 cups chopped green cabbage ¾ cup chopped seeded tomatoes ¾ cup chopped peeled jicama ¾ cup fresh corn kernels 1 avocado, pitted, peeled, diced ¼ cup feta cheese, crumbled Corn tortilla chips (optional) Purée first 5 ingredients in blender. Pour into medium bowl. Whisk in oil, then green onions. Season with salt and pepper. Mix all remaining ingredients except chips in bowl. Toss with enough dressing to coat. Serve with chips, if desired. Tester Tina Vierra noted that jicama can be difficult to find, but there are plenty of “crunchy” alternatives. 115 SALADS DILLED POTATO SALAD This recipe was nominated by Carol Peterson. It includes several variations, noted below. 8 medium russet* potatoes, diced 4 large eggs, hard cooked 1 cup mayonnaise 1 tablespoon prepared mustard 3 tablespoons dill pickle juice* ½ cup dill pickles, minced ½ teaspoon dill weed ½ teaspoon onion powder Salt and pepper to taste * If red potatoes are used, reduce pickle juice to 2 tablespoons. Hard cook the eggs; chill, remove shells, and cut in half. Remove yolks and dice the whites. Set aside. Cook potatoes in water until desired tenderness. Drain; rinse under cold, running water to stop cooking. While potatoes are cooking, combine mashed egg yolks with remaining ingredients. Combine chilled potatoes and sauce. Add egg whites. Refrigerate for several hours or overnight, to allow flavors to blend. Check for moisture. If too dry, add more pickle juice or milk. Sprinkle paprika on top just prior to serving, if desired. VARIATIONS: Use dill pickle relish instead of chopped pickles. Use fresh minced onions in place of onion powder. Add finely chopped celery for crunchiness. Add a dash of Tabasco sauce for a little extra zing. Tester Judy Chesen processed the egg whites instead of chopping them, which made the salad much creamier. 116 SALADS GERMAN POTATO SALAD This potato salad is Rosebud’s “go-to” salad for family gatherings. 1 pound bacon 1 cup chopped onion ½ cup chopped celery 4 tablespoons flour 4 tablespoons sugar 3 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper 2 teaspoons celery seed 1 cup vinegar (apple cider or white vinegar) 12 cups cooked potatoes, sliced (about 5 pounds) Fresh parsley for garnish Cook bacon until crisp. Drain the bacon and crumble; set aside. Reserve 1/2 cup bacon fat and cook onion and celery in it until tender. Blend in the flour, sugar, salt, celery seed, vinegar, and pepper. Cook, stirring constantly, until thickened and bubbly. Add potatoes and bacon and toss lightly; heat through. Garnish with fresh parsley. Tester Jennie Martin said, “I liked the slightly sweet/sour dressing, and the bacon flavor was really absorbed by the potatoes.” Signed, Barb in Idaho, the Potato State A boiled egg in the morning is hard to beat. Posted by Diane Laux in Chicago 117 SALADS MANGO CILANTRO JALAPEÑO SALAD Tina Vierra nominated her own salad, adapted from Nigella Lawson’s ‘Celebration Chicken’ recipe. “I want crunch in my salad so I added toasted pine nuts or crunchy fried Asian noodles.” 2 ripe mangoes ¼ cup mango nectar (optional) 2 jalapeño peppers 2 scallions Olive oil Toasted sesame oil 2 fresh limes 1 bunch fresh cilantro, cleaned, dried, and chopped, most stems removed 1 head romaine lettuce, chopped Toasted pine nuts or crunchy fried Asian noodles Chop the mangoes and place in a large salad bowl along with their juices. If the mangoes aren't ripe enough to be juicy, you can add ¼ cup of mango nectar. Mince the jalapeños and drop into the bowl. Chop and then add the scallions. Juice the 2 limes directly into the bowl. Add the chopped cilantro. Pour two turns around the bowl with the olive oil, and two turns around the bowl with the sesame oil (comes out to about ¼ cup olive oil, and one to two tablespoons sesame oil). You can taste and adjust if you want more of either. Toss the salad and then put the bowl into the refrigerator for half an hour or so for the flavors to mingle. (While not absolutely necessary, this step certainly helps intensify the flavors.) Add the chopped lettuce; toss. To finish, add a handful of toasted and cooled pine nuts, or crunchy fried Asian noodles. Tester Sheila Foster noted that fresh jalapeños should be used (not canned), and that this is a great make-ahead salad. Add the lettuce and pine nuts or fried noodles right before serving. 118 SALADS QUINOA AL SALPICON Chris Babcock nominated this recipe from Cooking with Herbs. She uses fresh roasted chilis, adds 2 to 3 minced garlic cloves, and doesn't peel the tomatoes. 1 cup quinoa 4 cups water 1 cup peeled, seeded, diced cucumber 1 cup peeled, seeded, diced tomato ½ cup finely chopped green onion 1 ⁄3 cup finely chopped parsley 1 ⁄3 cup finely chopped mint Salt and pepper to taste Vinaigrette: ¼ cup fresh lime juice ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 chili, seeded and minced 1 teaspoon salt ½ cup olive oil Rinse quinoa and put in a saucepan with the water. Cover; bring to a boil. Reduce heat; simmer for about 8 minutes, until quinoa grains begin to open and spiral. Don’t cook too long or the quinoa will get mushy. Drain and cool. In a small bowl whisk together lime juice, pepper, chili and salt. Gradually add olive oil, whisking constantly. Set aside. Combine the chopped vegetables and herbs in a large bowl. When quinoa is cool, add to the chopped vegetables. Toss to mix, then add vinaigrette and toss to combine thoroughly. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Tester Maggie Johnson thought this was a very refreshing salad, great to serve vegetarians for lunch. 119 SALADS SHRIMP, WATERMELON, AND AVOCADO SALAD This recipe was nominated by Robyn. “It is the perfect no-cook dinner. I made this for dinner on the patio and served it with a Robert Sinskey Pinot Blanc.” Serves 6 1 1-pound package frozen cooked shrimp, thawed 4 cups watermelon, seeded and roughly chopped 1 medium red onion, thinly sliced ½ cup cilantro leaves (die-hard cilantro haters can try Italian parsley) 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and finely chopped 2 avocados, roughly chopped Juice of 1 lime 1 teaspoon honey 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ¾ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon black pepper Place shrimp, watermelon, onion, cilantro, jalapeños, and avocado in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together lime juice, honey, oil, salt and pepper. Pour vinaigrette over salad and toss gently. Set aside for 10 minutes before serving to allow the flavors to meld. Tester Denny Arar felt that “the combination of ingredients proved magical. It’s a great hot-weather dish.” I never have trouble getting in shape. The Ancient Greeks thought the sphere was the perfect shape, all points being equidistant posted by the center. I effortlessly tend toward perfection. Posted by Rich Stevens 120 SALADS SPINACH AND BERRIES SALAD WITH DILL Phyllis Keating nominated this recipe originally posted by Terry Pogue. Red wine vinaigrette: ½ cup olive oil ¼ cup red wine vinegar ¼ cup sugar 2 cloves garlic, crushed ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon dry mustard ¼ teaspoon onion powder 1 cup almonds, slivered 1 pound baby spinach 1 pound butter lettuce 1 bunch scallions, chopped ½ pint strawberries, sliced ½ pint raspberries ½ pint blueberries ¼ cup fresh dill weed, chopped Toast the almonds for about 5 minutes at 350°F, then cool. Toss the almonds, spinach, lettuce, onions, fruit and dill week in a large bowl. Add the vinaigrette just before serving and toss to coat. Tester Phyllis Keating noted that this salad is a great side dish and looks very good plated. “I also made this recipe with a combination of baby leaf lettuce, romaine and baby arugula and it’s wonderful with a slight twist.” 121 SALADS TART POTATO SALAD This recipe is Chris Babcock’s favorite potato salad. “It keeps well and tastes even better the next day. I also add pickle juice and more onion!” 2 pounds potatoes ¼ cup cider vinegar 1 stalk celery, chopped 1 dill pickle, chopped 1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon black pepper 3 green onions, chopped At least two hours before serving, boil potatoes in salted water until tender, but not mushy. Drain and slice thinly. In a medium bowl, stir vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Gently stir in the sliced potatoes, celery, pickle and onion. Add pickle juice, salt and pepper to taste. Tester Lyn Belisle noted that this would work very well with grilled sausage. “This is one of those recipes that you want to make the minute you read the list of ingredients.” Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer. ~Dave Barry Posted by Greg Walker 122 SALADS TUSCAN TUNA SALAD This recipe was doubly nominated by Terry Pogue and Judy Chesen. Serves 2 1 14-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained 3 tablespoons sliced sun-dried tomatoes ¼ cup pitted Kalamata olives, coarsely chopped 1 4-ounce container imported tuna in olive oil, drained and broken into chunks (see note) 1 tablespoon chopped green onions 2 tablespoons white balsamic or balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil Ground black pepper ¼ cup fresh basil, julienned (cut into thin strips) Fresh chives for optional garnish In a large bowl, gently mix beans, tomatoes, olives, tuna and green onions. Stir together vinegar and oil; add to bowl and mix gently but well. Add pepper to taste; stir in basil. Garnish with chives, if desired. Note: Tuna packed in olive oil is often imported from Italy or Spain. Look for it in ethnic markets or gourmet shops. You can substitute domestic tuna in oil, but the flavor and texture of this salad won’t be as good. Tester Maryellen Casey found the salad a bit dry and increased the oil and vinegar to 3 tablespoons each. She also found that it worked best if not made ahead. Wendy Hunt used Romano beans instead of cannellini and liked the results. She also used the recipe as a sandwich filling. “Can you tell we really liked it?” 123 SALADS WARM ITALIAN SAUSAGE SALAD This recipe was nominated by Tina Vierra, who got it off the side of a malt vinegar bottle. “I wrote it down on a napkin, took it home and tried it. It is also fabulous with spinach; just toss the warm mixture on top of it to wilt.” ½ pound Italian sausage ½ teaspoon fennel seed 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 ⁄3 cup malt vinegar ½ teaspoon dried basil 1 bunch Swiss chard or spinach ½ red bell pepper, chopped into rings 2 scallions, sliced Crumble and brown the sausage with the fennel and garlic. Then stir in vinegar and basil. Cook 4-5 minutes over medium heat. Wilt the Swiss chard in olive oil in a frying pan for just one minute. Toss with the sausage mixture, top with the scallions and bell pepper, serve. Tester Matthew Hill tried the spinach option and felt it was too weak in flavor. He suggested using kale, collards, or Savoy cabbage instead. He also noted that it would be equally good with hot Italian sausage or chorizo. To make a good salad is to be a brilliant diplomatist. The problem is entirely the same in both cases—to know exactly how much oil one must put with one's vinegar. ~Oscar Wilde Posted by Tina V. 124 FISH & SEAFOOD FISH & SEAFOOD BROILED FISH WITH INDIAN SPICES Doreen brought us this delicious Madjur Jaffrey recipe. Serves 4 2 teaspoons finely grated ginger 3 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon garam masala ½ teaspoon ground cumin ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric ½ teaspoon mustard powder ¼ to ½ teaspoon cayenne pepper 2 tablespoons lemon juice 4 fish fillets or steaks, such as swordfish, halibut, haddock, tuna, or salmon 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper In a small bowl, combine ginger, garlic, garam masala, cumin, turmeric, mustard powder, cayenne, lemon juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, and a pinch of black pepper. Stir in about 1 tablespoon warm water to form a very thick paste. Brush a baking sheet or broiler pan with 1 tablespoon butter; place fish on top. Cover fish on both sides with paste; set aside for at least 15 minutes but no more than 30 minutes. Preheat broiler. Drizzle 2 tablespoons butter over fish; broil until nicely browned, 5 to 6 minutes. Turn over the fish steaks, and drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons butter; broil until browned and cooked through. Serve immediately. Tester Marilyn Watson says that those wary of spicy foods can cut back on the cayenne and the garam masala and still have wonderfully flavored fish. 126 FISH & SEAFOOD GRANDMA’S MARYLAND CRAB CAKES Foodwine list members once famously held a crab cake cook-off, with particpants cooking others’ recipes until the winners were declared. One of the winners was Rosebud’s grandmother’s authentic Maryland-native crab cakes. “Back in my Grandma’s day and my mother’s, we took trips to the Eastern shore and got the crab meat from the little old ladies, who could pick crab meat faster than your eyes could follow. And it was very seldom that there was ever a piece of shell or cartilage in it. With good Chesapeake Bay blue crab meat, you really want to taste the crab, so less is definitely more!” 1 slice white bread, processed to crumbs 1 slice white bread, processed to crumbs and seasoned with 1 teaspoon Old Bay seasoning 1 pound fresh lump crab meat, well but carefully picked 1 egg, beaten 1 teaspoon dry mustard (Coleman’s preferred) or 1 tablespoon prepared Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon mayonnaise (if using dry mustard, use 1½ tablespoons) 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley (ONLY fresh will do) 1½ teaspoons Old Bay seasoning Butter or oil for frying Beat the egg and add the mayonnaise, parsley, mustard, and Old Bay seasoning and stir together. Add the unseasoned bread crumbs and stir again. Carefully stir the egg mixture into the crabmeat, leaving the lumps as intact as possible. Shape into 6 patties. Coat with the seasoned bread crumbs and refrigerate, covered, for 1 hour. Melt butter or oil in a pan and fry crab cakes on both sides until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve piping hot with slices of summer tomatoes and lots of mayonnaise. 127 FISH & SEAFOOD ALICE’S CORN CRAB CAKES Sheila Foster likes this light, tender version of classic crab cakes. Serves 4 1 pound fresh or frozen lump crabmeat, cartilage removed 1 cup cooked corn ½ cup finely diced green pepper ¼ cup finely diced onion ½ cup finely diced celery 1 cup mayonnaise ½ teaspoon mustard powder Pinch of cayenne pepper Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 2 eggs, lightly beaten 2¼ cups saltine cracker crumbs 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 tablespoons unsalted butter Tartar sauce (makes 1½ cups): 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce Dash of Tabasco sauce ¼ cup finely diced dill pickle ¼ cup chopped fresh Italian (flat-leaf) parsley 2 tablespoons finely minced shallots 2 tablespoons tiny capers, drained Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Combine the crabmeat, corn, onion, bell pepper, and celery in a mixing bowl, and toss well. In another bowl, combine the mayonnaise with the mustard and cayenne pepper. Stir into the crabmeat mixture, and add salt and pepper. Using 128 FISH & SEAFOOD a rubber spatula, gently fold in the eggs and 1 cup of the cracker crumbs. Form the crab mixture into eight patties. Carefully coat the patties with the remaining cracker crumbs and chill, covered for at least 30 minutes, but no longer than a few hours. For the tartar sauce, mix the mayonnaise, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and Tabasco together in a bowl. Fold in the pickle, parsley, shallots, and capers. Season with salt and pepper and refrigerate, loosely covered, at least 1 hour before serving (so that the flavors will meld). Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium size skillet. Cook the crab cakes over medium heat until golden on both sides, about 3 minutes per side, adding more oil and butter as necessary. Serve immediately with tartar sauce on the side. Tester Lyn Beslisle reported that the combined flavors of fresh corn and fresh crab made these cakes wonderful. In the hands of a master, the English language is a powerful and beautiful tool; in the hands of a novice it’s more akin to giving a gun to a duck. Posted by Chris Gunning 129 FISH & SEAFOOD CRAB PATTIES WITH CHIPOTLE MAYONNAISE Dan, our Scarlet Wombat, found this recipe on the CBS news web site, “modified it, played with it, fondled it, got it happy, and it is delicious.” Patties: ½ pound lump crabmeat, drained, picked clean of shell, lightly squeezed if wet ½ pound cooked baby shrimp 6 ounces Devonshire or clotted cream at room temperature 12 saltine crackers, finely ground in a food processor 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice Heaping ½ tablespoon jarred hot peppers, stems and seeds removed Heaping ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper ½ cup all-purpose flour for dredging ½ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning for the flour 1 teaspoon salt (or more to taste) ½ teaspoon ground black pepper Spicy chipotle mayonnaise: 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice or more 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro leaves (optional) 2 tablespoons puréed canned chipotle peppers in adobo 2 teaspoons minced garlic or more 1 teaspoon salt (or more to taste) Combine crabmeat, shrimp, Devonshire cream, saltine crumbs, chives, lemon juice, peppers and cayenne in a large bowl, and mix thoroughly with your hands to avoid destroying the lumps of crabmeat. Cover and chill 20 minutes. In a small bowl, whisk mayonnaise with lemon juice and olive oil. Add cilantro, chipotle, garlic and salt. Add more lemon juice, garlic, and chipotle to taste. 130 FISH & SEAFOOD Remove crab mixture from refrigerator and form into 8 equal size patties, about 3 inches around, ½- to ¾-inch thick. Press cakes firmly together so they don’t break apart during cooking. Combine the Old Bay seasoning with the flour in a shallow bowl. Dredge the crab patties in the flour mixture, turn over and repeat. Make sure the patties are well coated. To cook, place skillet on medium heat with ½ cup oil, and heat for 2 minutes. Place cakes in skillet and cook until golden brown on one side (about 4 to 6 minutes). Turn carefully so the cakes don’t break. Cook 3 to 4 minutes on the second side. Remove from oil and drain on paper towels. Plate on salad greens if desired, and top with chipotle mayonnaise. Barbara Leckstein made this recipe three times during testing, using various sizes of shrimp and brands of crabmeat, and it always turned out well. “The chipotle mayo is perfect for the crab cakes, not too spicy but the flavor is intense, and got even better when I added the cilantro. The crab cake itself stayed moist and had a great texture.” We do a crust for fish at home with very thinly sliced potatoes. I kept a commercial slicer when I got out of restaurants. Slice potatoes so thin you can read through them. Lay the slices on a piece of plastic wrap in a pattern overlapping like shingles. The whole “panel” of slices should be large enough to completely wrap around the fish, leaving just the ends exposed. I spray the fish with pan release because it makes the slices stick better. Lay the fish in the middle of the potato wrap, and bring up the wrap such that the potatoes wrap all the way around the piece of fish. A little fiddling, if necessary, will push the potato slices into pretty order. Press the slices gently against the fish and slide the whole thing into a medium-high hot skillet with a bit of butter-oil mixture. Brown on both sides. Eat.~Bob Pastorio 131 FISH & SEAFOOD MOROCCAN SPICED SALMON ON LENTILS Several Foodwinos nominated this recipe by our own Scott Miller. Serves 6 2 cups (¾ pound) French green lentils, picked over and rinsed Salt and freshly ground pepper ¼ cup coriander seeds ¼ cup fennel seeds 2 tablespoons cumin seeds 1 teaspoon cardamom seeds 2 teaspoons whole cloves ¼ cup olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons 8 garlic cloves, minced 2 large shallots, minced 2 tablespoons harissa (buy or make the recipe that follows) 35 ounces Italian plum tomatoes, drained and chopped, juices reserved 6 6-ounce fillets salmon, skin on 1 tablespoon cold unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces In a medium saucepan, cover lentils with 6 cups water; bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until lentils are tender, about 25 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste; set aside, covered. In a medium skillet, combine coriander, fennel, cumin, cardamom seeds and loves. Toast over moderate heat, stirring, until fragrant—about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate to cool. Finely grind spices in a spice grinder or mortar. Set aside one tablespoon for the tomato sauce, and save the rest for the salmon. In a medium nonreactive saucepan, warm ¼ cup olive oil over moderately low heat. Add garlic and shallots; cook, stirring, until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add harissa and 1 tablespoon spices; cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add tomatoes with juices; raise heat to moderate and simmer, stirrinrg occasionally, until flavors blend—about 5 minutes. Salt and pepper to taste.. 132 FISH & SEAFOOD Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place 2 large ovenproof skillets over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to each skillet. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper and coat them on both sides with the remaining spice mixture. When the oil is very hot, add 3 salmon fillets to each pan, skin side down. Put 1 piece of the butter next to each fillet and shake the pans to incorporate the butter into the oil. Sauté the salmon fillets for 3 minutes. Transfer the skillets to the oven without turning the fillets and roast the salmon for about 6 minutes, or until the skin is very crisp and the fish is just cooked through. Meanwhile, reheat the lentils and the tomato sauce. Spoon the lentils into the center of warmed dinner plates and set the salmon fillets on top, skin side up. Spoon the tomato sauce around the lentils and serve at once. You can prepare the lentils and tomato up to three days ahead, storing in refrigerator. You can also mix spices and keep in a jar at room temperature. HARISSA Makes about 1 cup 1 cup red pepper flakes 3 tablespoons paprika 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 teaspoon ground coriander 3 teaspoons ground caraway 2 to 3 tablespoons water Olive oil In a food processor or blender, combine the pepper flakes, paprika, garlic, coriander, caraway, 2 teaspoons water and 3 to 6 tablespoons olive oil. Puree until mixture forms a paste, adding additional water and/or oil if necessary. Transfer to a jar and cover with olive oil. Harissa will keep in the refrigerator for up to 6 months. 133 FISH & SEAFOOD THE MUSTANG WINEMAKER’S PAELLA A winemaker specializing in Tempranillo, Penny and her husband Frank have a strong love for things Spanish. After several trips to Spain and lots of experimenting, Penny has developed a paella that is uniquely her own. Serves 6-8 2 pinches saffron 2 cups long grain rice 1 14½-ounce can stewed tomatoes ¼ link Mexican chorizo (soft not dried) 4 Andouille sausages, cut into ¼-inch slices 1 large yellow onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, crushed 3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil 4½ cups chicken stock 6 to 8 chicken thighs 16 raw shrimp, peeled and deveined (more if small, or to taste) 16 live mussels 1 teaspoon paprika 1 sweet red pepper, broiled, peeled and sliced (jarred roasted red pepper will work as well) Heat the chicken broth in the microwave on high for 1 to 2 minutes. Add saffron threads, crushing them between your fingers, to the hot broth. Set aside. In a 16-inch paella pan, heat olive oil on medium to medium high heat. Brown the chicken thighs (do not cook through), then remove from pan. Add Mexican chorizo and let it melt. Add stewed tomatoes and cook until very little liquid is left. Then add the Andouille sausage, onions, and garlic, cooking until the onions are translucent. The smell is getting pretty amazing at this point! 134 FISH & SEAFOOD Note: Penny prefers to complete the recipe from here forward on her outdoor gas grill as it has a larger surface for cooking. Using a 4-burner grill, she keeps the middle two burners just a notch down from high. Grilling yields the caramelization on the bottom that you cannot get on a stovetop. Add the rice, mixing to coat evenly, then the broth with saffron threads, the paprika, and chicken thighs. Salt and pepper to taste. Cover and set heat to medium low. Cook for 20 minutes or until most of the liquid is absorbed. Important: Do not stir during this time. After the liquid has been absorbed and the bottom of the rice is browning, lift the cover and add the shrimp, mussels, and sliced red peppers. Do not stir. Cover and cook for about another 5 minutes, or until the mussels have opened and the shrimp are pink. (Discard any mussels that do not open.) Best served with a Sangria, or a Tempranillo wine, with fruit or green salad on the side. Tester Beatrice Powell added frozen peas to this dish as Penny suggested you could. The fish and chicken can be mixed, matched, left out, or upped in quantity, whatever your preference. Drink Sonoma County wines—they are good for your heart!!!! Posted by Frank & Penny Coster 135 FISH & SEAFOOD GINGER-STEAMED WHOLE FISH WITH ASIAN FLAVORS Denny Arar found this recipe while surfing through the FoodNetwork site, and it became a favorite in her household. Serves 2-4 1 whole 2- to 3-pound fish, such as sea bass, red snapper or rock cod, scaled, cleaned and gutted, with head and tail intact Marinade: 1 teaspoon salt juice of 1 lemon 1 tablespoon sesame oil 2 tablespoons peeled and slivered ginger 2 cloves garlic, roughly chopped 2 scallions, white and green parts cut into slices on diagonal 2 chunks of fresh ginger Sauce: 3 tablespoons peanut oil 2 tablespoons sesame oil 1 to 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice 1 to 2 teaspoons sugar Sliced scallions, black and white toasted sesame seeds (optional garnish) Rinse the fish under cold running water, pat dry, and place on a lightly oiled, heatproof platter that will fit in your steamer or a large roasting pan. Cut 3 deep diagonal gashes along each side of the fish, to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat. Sprinkle the inside cavity and outside of the fish with salt, squeeze the lemon juice over the fish, drizzle with sesame oil, then stuff the 136 FISH & SEAFOOD slivered ginger and chopped garlic into the gashes. Scatter the scallions over the fish, and marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes. Fill the steamer or roasting pan with water to within an inch of the steamer rack, and bring to a boil on the stovetop. Reduce to a simmer, and add the ginger chunks to the water. Place platter with fish on the steaming rack, cover, and steam over low heat for 20 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fish (plan on 10 minutes for each 1-inch of thickness at its widest point). About 5 minutes before the fish is done, heat the peanut oil and the sesame oil in a small saucepan until hot, about 3 to 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the soy sauce, lemon juice and sugar. Test fish for doneness by poking with a fork or chopsticks. The fish meat should flake easily at its thickest part. Remove from the steamer, transferring fish and juices to a larger platter if you need the room. Pour the hot oil mixture over the fish, and serve immediately. Terry Pogue served this to dinner guests when she tested it for the cookbook, and her guests loved it, remarking over the ginger flavor that steamed into the flesh of the fish. Where do Foodwinos hail from? Wanda in Indy Kelly in Cleveland Kathy in San Luis Obispo, CA Janice from Upstate New York 137 FISH & SEAFOOD GRILLED MAHI MAHI WITH BANANA SALSA The surprise in this recipe from Rosebud is the flavors of banana and Chinese five-spice together. In the summer, grill the Mahi Mahi and, in the winter, broil it. Serves 4-6 2 pounds fresh Mahi Mahi ¼ cup freshly chopped cilantro 4 tablespoons salt 2 large firm ripe bananas 1 teaspoon sesame oil ½ cup golden raisins Grated zest of 1 lemon 1 teaspoon Chinese five-spice powder Slice the fish into 6 equal portions. Press the chopped cilantro into the top of each portion then generously sprinkle each piece with the kosher salt. Chill the fish tightly wrapped in plastic wrap for at least 1 hour. Add the remaining ingredients into a large bowl and mix well. Chill for at least an hour. Preheat the grill. Grill the fish for about 5 minutes on each side or until desired doneness. Serve the fish generously topped with the salsa. To do is to be. ~Descartes To be is to do. ~Sartre Do be do be do. ~Sinatra Posted by Pamela Davis 138 FISH & SEAFOOD PESTO CRUSTED SALMON Personal chef/caterer Blake Olson’s recipe is delicious, easy, and flexible. He serves it at room temperature at cocktail parties. Salmon filet Tomatoes, thinly sliced (optional) Pesto Bread crumbs, dry Choose a salmon filet of any size you want, salt and pepper it, cover with the sliced tomatoes (if using), ¼ inch of pesto and then bread crumbs. Cover it with plastic wrap and stick it in the fridge overnight. Remove the fish from the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. Bake at 425ºF for 15 to 18 minutes, depending on thickness of the fish. Terry Pogue made this great variation: “Instead of the pesto, I used some sun-dried tomato bruschetta topping (a big jar of it from Costco). I used breadcrumbs for the overnight resting in the fridge and right before baking, I put on a light layer of coarsely crushed pine nuts.” Tester Janet served this dish at a buffet dinner. “This was the first thing to go from the buffet table. The pesto made the flavor so bright!” I am a kind of paranoid in reverse. I suspect people of plotting to make me happy. ~J.D. Salinger Posted by Joan (new to the list and still tip-toeing around) 139 FISH & SEAFOOD TEQUILA-ORANGE GRILLED SHRIMP Doreen nominated this recipe for our cookbook. While often circulated on the list, we don’t know how we originally came by it. Serves 4 to 6 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined, with tails left on 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 jalapeño chili, very finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, very finely chopped Zest of 1 lime, plus lime wedges for serving Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup orange juice ¼ cup tequila 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives In a medium bowl, combine shrimp, oil, half the jalapeño, half the garlic, and the zest; season with salt and pepper. Refrigerate, covered, for at least 15 minutes and up to 1 hour. In a shallow saucepan, combine remaining jalapeño, garlic, ½ teaspoon salt (or less), pepper, orange juice, tequila, and shallots; bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Cook until thick and syrupy, 7 to 8 minutes. Stir in butter; keep warm. Set a gas grill to high, or put a stovetop grill pan over high heat. Grill shrimp, turning once, until just opaque, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter; top with tequila sauce, grnish with chives; serve immediately with lime wedges. Marilyn Watson cooked the spicy shrimp on an outdoor grill and cautions cooks to watch them since they cook quickly. Sheila Foster liked the shrimp but thinks they might be too sweet for an entrée, suggesting they are perfect as an appetizer instead. 140 POULTRY POULTRY APRICOT BRANDIED CHICKEN BREASTS This makes an easy but impressive main course. Serve with rice or buttered noodles on the side. Serves 4 4 boneless, skinless chicken fryer breasts, pounded to even thickness ½ cup flour ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper ¼ teaspoon tarragon leaves, crushed ¼ cup butter 2 apricots, chopped in quarters ½ cup apricot brandy ¾ cup chicken broth ½ cup sour cream or creme fraiche Preheat a large skillet on low heat. In a shallow dish, sift together the flour, salt, pepper and tarragon. Dredge the chicken pieces, one at a time, to coat. Melt the butter in the skillet, then increase the heat to medium high just before placing the chicken pieces. Cook 5 to 10 minutes on each side, until browned; remove from pan and place on a warmed plate. Add apricots, brandy, and chicken broth to the same pan. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and return chicken pieces to the pan. Simmer for 10 more minutes, until the chicken is done (160°F on an instant-read thermometer). Add the sour cream and stir to warm. Place the chicken back on the warm plate, pour the warm sauce over the chicken, and serve immediately. Tester Gretl Collins increased the pepper and tarragon to ½ teaspoon each. “This is fast and easy to prepare, especially if you flatten the chicken breasts to an even thickness and cut in half. You could also substitute pork chops.” 142 POULTRY CHICKEN & SPINACH IN A COCONUT CURRY SAUCE Gretl Collins loves this curry recipe from Foodwino Beatrice Powell, who claims, “My Indian friend Ram says it tastes just like his Mom’s cooking.” Serves 2 4 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 onions, chopped 1 tablespoon ginger purée 1 tablespoon Indian curry paste (or more to taste) 1 cup coconut milk (I use light) 2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cut into bite-sized pieces 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored, and diced ½ cup raisins 2 tablespoons lime juice 2 cups baby spinach Heat 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet and sauté onions on low for about 10 minutes. Mix in ginger and curry paste. Sauté for about a minute, until fragrant. Add coconut milk and simmer for 5 minutes, until slightly thickened. Meanwhle, in another skillet, heat remaining oil and sauté chicken for about 5 minutes, then add apple and cook for 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Put the chicken and apple mixture in the coconut curry sauce. Stir in raisins, lime juice and spinach. Mix and let simmer for two minutes, until spinach wilts. Serve chicken and sauce over basmati rice. Testers loved this recipe. Wendy Hunt served it in her café, and customers cheered. Jeanie Roberts used curry powder instead of paste, and points out that you can use other vegetables if you do not have spinach. Chris Babcock used Thai curry paste and minced (instead of puréed) ginger. And her kids “ate it happily! Now they’ll eat spinach and not complain about it!” 143 POULTRY CHICKEN A LA ROMANA Karen Brack ate this as a child. “Mom always served it with white rice and peas. Now that I think of it, she served a lot of things with white rice and peas.” 1 2½-pound chicken, cut into serving pieces Flour for dredging 2 tablespoons cooking oil 2 tablespoons butter 1 1/2 teaspoons dried rosemary 1 clove garlic, crushed Salt and pepper ½ cup dry white wine (plus a little to deglaze) 2 teaspoons lemon juice ½ cup chicken stock Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat butter and oil in an oven-proof pan large enough to hold the chicken in one layer. Add chicken pieces and brown on all sides. Add rosemary, garlic, salt and pepper; continue cooking until garlic is fragrant. Add a bit of the wine and deglaze bottom of pan. Add the ½ cup wine, lemon juice, and chicken stock. Cover pan, place in oven, and bake until chicken is cooked through and tender, about 30 minutes. Tester Chris Babcock’s daughter and friends (and the family dog!) kept coming into her kitchen while this dish was cooking, lured by the fragrant smells. One of the girls took the recipe home to her own mother. “This tasted a lot like a marinated grilled chicken that I make in the summer time, but was a lot juicier when served. I liked that. If you have fresh rosemary use it instead of dried as the flavor has more punch.” 144 POULTRY CHICKEN SKEWERS WITH LEMON SAUCE Serves 6 ½ cup olive oil ½ cup dry white wine 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ⅛ teaspoon dried crushed red pepper 6 skinless, boneless chicken breast halves, cut into 1-inch pieces 1¼ cup Panko crumbs 1¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (about 2½ ounces) 12 8-inch bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes Sauce: ¼ cup (½ stick) butter juice of ½ lemon (approximately 2 tablespoons) Combine the first 6 ingredients in a ziplock bag, add the chicken, toss to coat, and marinate at least 1 hour in the refrigerator. Preheat broiler. Combine Panko and Parmesan cheese in a large bowl. Remove chicken from marinade; discard marinade. Add chicken to the Panko/ cheese mixture; toss to coat. Arrange chicken on skewers. Broil chicken until cooked through, turning frequently, about 8 minutes. Transfer to platter. Meanwhile, melt butter in heavy small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and mix in lemon juice. Drizzle butter over chicken. Tester Roberta Merkle advises coating the chicken in several batches, rather than trying to put it all into the Panko-cheese mixture at once. These skewers can also be grilled. 145 POULTRY CHUTNEY GLAZED CHICKEN BREASTS Serves 4-6 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoons vegetable oil 3 tablespoons Balducci’s Hot Curry Powder or other curry powder 1 ⁄3 cup dry white wine 1 bunch cilantro, chopped (optional) 4 full skinless chicken breasts, bone in 1 jar (about 9 ounces) Patak’s Major Gray or other mango chutney Preheat oven to 350°F. Line a low-sided sheet pan or roasting pan with foil or parchment paper. In a small saucepan, melt butter and vegetable oil. Add curry powder and cook 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant. Add wine and stir till blended. Remove from heat. Make a deep slit in the side of each chicken breast and, if using chopped cilantro, stuff a good 3 tablespoons into the cavity. Lay breasts on the sheet pan and baste with the curry-butter mixture. Bake for 25 minutes. Remove from oven and spread chutney over chicken. Bake for 15 minutes more, basting frequently with more of the curry butter mixture. Remove chicken to serving platter, and spoon any remaining butter sauce over chicken. Now cover with foil, and let the chicken rest for a good 10 to 12 minutes so the residual heat will finish the cooking. Serve hot or at room temperature. Tester Sheila Foster cautions that the butter curry mixture can stain wooden cutting boards, and recommends using a plastic one. She used leftover chicken from this recipe in tortilla roll-ups and salads. She also tried the butter-curry sauce on grilled fish and pronounced it delicious. 146 POULTRY CREAMED SAGE CHICKEN SCALLOPINI Chris Babcock nominated this Foodwine original from Patrick Gerding. “Patrick would dream up the most awesome meals that often had me drooling over the keyboard. This was one that he came up with because he had a plethora of sage in a pot on his deck. I nominated it because it’s one of the first recipes from Foodwine that I totally fell in love with.” Serves 1 1 chicken breast, cut into scallopini 3 tablespoons chopped fresh sage 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 tablespoons butter ½ cup dry white wine ¼ cup half-and-half or cream Freshly grated Romano cheese Season the scallopini with salt and pepper; pound lightly. Melt the butter in an 8-inch skillet and add the garlic and the sage, then sauté for a minute. Add the scallopini, and brown lightly on both sides in the butter/garlic. Add half of the white wine and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove the chicken and keep warm. Add the rest of the wine and the cream to the skillet and deglaze. Reduce by half, and pour the sauce over the chicken. Serve immediately with a little fresh grated Romano cheese on top. Patrick said, “I served it with wild mushroom ravioli and diced portobello 'shrooms sautéed in garlic and butter. I had a dry Washington Riesling with it and was quite pleased. Thought about steamed broccoli but ran out of time!” Chris usually uses 2 or 3 chicken breasts, sliced in half, and increases the ingredients accordingly, “usually with a heavy hand on the sage.” She serves it to her kids with basmati rice. 147 POULTRY CURRIED CHICKEN CLAFOUTIS Terry Pogue gave us this recipe—perfect hot or cold, for lunch or dinner, or as her husband claims, a favorite midnight snack. 1½ cups diced cooked chicken ¼ cup green onion 2 tablespoons raisins (or dried cranberries) ½ cup flour 1½ teaspoons curry powder (or to taste) ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon ground pepper 1½ cups half-and-half (or milk of any fat content down to 1%) 4 large eggs, lightly beaten Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter a deep dish pie plate, and sprinkle chicken, green onions and raisins or cranberries in the bottom of pan. Mix the flour, curry powder, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl. Slowly whisk in the half-and-half until blended; whisk in the eggs until blended. Pour over the chicken mixture in the pan. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes or until puffed, browned and set. Cut into wedges and serve. Tester Joan Waldron said her husband Rob, who won’t eat quiche or fritattas, loved this dish both hot and cold. Wisdom is like an open oven; the food is gone but the heat remains. Posted by Ellen in Dallas 148 POULTRY FOUR-CHEESE CHICKEN BREASTS FLORENTINE Rich Stevens wrote this recipe, a favorite nominated by both Rosebud, and the man we know as =Mark. 4 boneless skinless chicken breasts 4 ounces imported prosciutto 8 ounces ricotta cheese 4 ounces roasted pine nuts 4 ounces smoked provolone 1 quart marinara sauce 4 ounces mozzarella (smoked if you can find it), shredded Freshly ground Romano or Parmesan cheese 1 package frozen chopped spinach (or 8 ounces fresh spinach, cleaned, cooked and drained) Pound out the breasts to an even thickness of about ½ inch. Heat and drain the spinach. Place 2 ounces ricotta, 1 ounce prosciutto, 1 ounce mozzarella, 1 ounce roasted pine nuts, and about a tablespoon of spinach onto the center of each breast. Sprinkle liberally with Romano or Parmesan. Place a third of the marinara sauce in the bottom of a baking dish. Fold the sides of the chicken breasts around the stuffing. Place breasts, seam side down, in the baking dish. Cover each breast with provolone, and all with remaining marinara sauce. Bake at 350°F for 1 hour. Remove from oven and let sit for a few minutes before serving. Serve with a long string pasta such as fettucine, spaghetti or angel hair. Rosebud’s dinner guests were very impressed. “The chicken was tender and juicy, and the amount of sauce was just right. I especially liked the pine nuts and the smoked provolone—the flavors and texture were lovely.” 149 POULTRY GRILLED CHICKEN BREASTS Tina Vierra nominated Bob Coomler’s easy chicken recipe, which “changed my whole world view on how flavorful grilled chicken can be!” Serves 4 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, pounded to even thickness Marinade: Juice of 1 lemon 2 heaping tablespoons whole grain mustard (e.g. Plochman’s Natural Stone Ground, or Maille Moutarde a l’Ancienne) 3 to 4 smashed cloves of garlic 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil Cracked black pepper Fresh rosemary, stems removed and leaves roughly chopped Dry white wine Marinate chicken in the mixture for at least an hour (longer is better). Grill chicken pieces over a hot fire, turning when grill-marked, and check for doneness after about 2 or 3 minutes per side, depending on how close the meat is to the fire. An instant-read thermometer should read 155 to 158°F. Remove the breasts to a heated platter, cover with foil (the temperature should then increase by a few degrees to a poultry-safe 160°F), and allow to rest for 10 minutes before serving. Crack open the Rosé. Bon appetit. Tester Gretl Collins marinated her chicken for 5 hours. “This is an EXCELLENT recipe. The mustard acts as a binder to hold rubs or spices, and it also helps to tenderize the meat. As in most cases, the mustard flavor in this recipe receded, leaving a wonderful lemony-garlicky flavor. Pounding the chicken breasts into an even thickness ensures there won’t be any areas over or underdone, and the meat doesn’t have a chance to dry out when grilled quickly." 150 POULTRY POBLANO CHICKEN Terry Pogue chose this recipe from Arizona Chris for our cookbook, claiming, “We love it and it is a standard at our house. I also love the fact that this recipe easily doubles or even triples for parties." Serves 4 3 large poblano chili peppers, seeded and coarsely chopped 3 tablespoons butter 3 chicken breasts or 6 chicken thighs, chopped into bite-sized pieces ½ cup milk ½ large onion, coarsely chopped ½ cup sour cream 2 cups grated Monterey jack cheese (or a jack-cheddar blend) Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet and sauté the peppers and onion until limp. Remove from pan and purée the peppers and onions with the milk and sour cream in a blender. Salt and pepper to taste. Melt the remaining tablespoon butter in the skillet and sauté the chicken about 5-8 minutes. Chicken doesn’t need to be done, but the pink should be mostly gone. Salt and pepper to taste. Place the chicken in a casserole dish and pour the pepper-onion mixture over the top. Liberally sprinkle the top with the cheese, creating a nice heavy layer. Bake in a 350°F oven for 30 minutes, or until the cheese is lightly browned. Serve over rice. Tester Joan Waldron marveled that such a tasty recipe could be so easy to make. Wendy Hunt said that to make the recipe more cheaply, you can use cheaper cuts of chicken, and less expensive peppers. All testers declared this recipe gave a lot of “bang for the buck—big flavor results with very little effort.” 151 POULTRY LEX’S ROAST CHICKEN Terry Pogue found this recipe in Cuisine at Home magazine, and made some minor changes that made a lot of difference to the success of the dish. All part of the tinkering we do on the Foodwine list. 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil 3 large onions halved, then sliced into half moons 2 cups celery, sliced 2 teaspoons lemon zest 1¾ teaspoons sea salt 1 teaspoon garlic, minced ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ teaspoon thyme, dried ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes ¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped 1 3 to 4 pound chicken (backbone removed and butterflied; small kosher or organic birds are best) 1 teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground ½ teaspoon sea salt ½ baguette French bread cut into large cubes ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice Preheat oven to 375°F. Sauté onions and celery in ¼ cup oil for about 10 minutes, until soft but not browned. Add lemon zest, salt, garlic, pepper, thyme, and red pepper; sauté a few more minutes, then remove from heat. Stir in parsley and set aside. Rub the chicken on both sides with olive oil; season with salt and pepper. In a lightly oiled roasting pan, layer the bread cubes and onion mixture. Place the butterflied chicken skin-side-up on top of the bread and onion mixture. Pour lemon juice over the chicken and roast, uncovered for 1½ hours, or until golden brown with an internal temperature of at least 160°F. Check for doneness in the last 15 minutes. 152 POULTRY Remove from oven, let stand for 10 minutes before cutting chicken into quarters. To serve, spoon some bread and vegetables onto each plate and top with chicken. Beatrice Powell reported: “We love this recipe. I make it over and over again, sometimes for Sunday dinner for the family, often for company. I especially like that I can assemble it early in the day, and then pop it in the oven for dinnertime without having a big mess. It’s a great make-ahead meal. "I’ve made it both with chicken quarters and the whole bird, and it’s good either way. I’ve also used different breads—whatever is lying around the house—and got neat results. Multi-grain and pumpernickel make for nice eye appeal and a different flavor, all yummy!” We have seen the Queen of cheese, Laying quietly at your ease, Gently fanned by evening breeze— Thy fair form no flies dare seize. Cows numerous as a swarm of bees— Or as the leaves upon the trees— It did require to make thee please, And stand unrivalled Queen of Cheese. ~Ode on the Mammoth Cheese, James McIntyre (1828-1906) Posted by the stray grey mouse 153 POULTRY PHYLLO CHICKEN WITH RICE, ARTICHOKES, AND CREAM SAUCE Sheila Foster says, “I took this dish from Terry Pogue to a party, and my cooking prowess has been famed ever since.” We have to warn that this dish is not low-calorie, and takes some time to prepare, but everyone felt the results were well worth the effort. Serves 10 For the chicken: 10 boneless skinless chicken breast halves 1 cup dry white wine or vermouth 1 teaspoon salt 1½ teaspoons thyme ½ teaspoon rosemary 1 bay leaf For the rice: 3 tablespoons butter 2 cloves garlic, minced ½ cup chopped onion ½ pound mushrooms, sliced ¾ cup long-grain rice For the cream sauce: 3 tablespoons butter ¼ cup flour ½ cup skim milk For assembly: 9 ounces artichoke hearts, thawed 3 tablespoons butter 16 sheets phyllo dough, thawed 154 POULTRY In a large pot, combine chicken, wine, salt, thyme, rosemary, bay leaf, and water to cover. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer for 25 minutes or until chicken is cooked through. Remove chicken and cut into bite-size pieces. Set aside. Boil chicken broth gently, uncovered, until it is reduced to about 3½ cups. Set aside. Make the rice: In a large saucepan, melt 3 tablespoons butter. Add the garlic, onion, and mushrooms; cook until tender. Stir in rice. Add 1½ cups of the reduced chicken broth. Simmer, covered, until liquid is absorbed (about 20 minutes). While the rice is cooking, make the cream sauce. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a saucepan over low heat. Stir in the flour and cook until bubbly. Remove from heat and slowly stir in the remaining 2 cups of broth. Gradually add skim milk. Return to low heat and stir until thick. When the rice is cooked, stir in the artichoke hearts and 1 cup of the cream sauce. Set aside. Stir remaining cream sauce into chicken pieces. Set aside. Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Melt 3 tablespoons butter. Unfold the phyllo leaves. Cover with plastic or a damp towel. Place 1 phyllo sheet into bottom of pan. Brush lightly with melted butter. Repeat procedure with 6 more sheets of phyllo. Spread half of the rice mixture over phyllo dough. Spread chicken over rice mixture. Spread remaining rice mixture over chicken. Cover with 6 sheets of phyllo, brushing with butter between each sheet. Tuck in the edges of last sheet and brush the top with butter. Cut lightly through 3 or 4 layers of phyllo dough to indicate pieces to be cut later. Bake for 45 minutes or until golden brown and bubbly. Or refrigerate for up to 24 hours and bake later for 60 minutes. Tester Leo Zick suggests using puff pastry in muffin cups for attractive individual portions. Wendy Hunt has made this several times for catering jobs and in her café; she says either canned or frozen artichoke hearts work fine. 155 POULTRY ZUNI ROLLS Terry Pogue proclaims Susan McDonald’s Zuni Rolls, “the world’s best sandwich—we love it. Plus, the chipotle sauce is so good I always have the ingredients on hand to make it for other things.” Serves 2 For the chipotle sauce: 1 cup fresh raspberries or frozen unsweetened raspberries, thawed 2 tablespoons sugar ¼ cup ruby port 1 can whole chipotle chili peppers in adobo sauce, drained For Zuni Rolls: 2 9- to 10-inch flour tortillas (use the largest you can find) 2 ⁄3 cup coarsely grated Havarti cheese (about 2 ounces) 2 scallions, minced ¼ pound thinly sliced smoked turkey breast 6 slices crisp-cooked bacon In a small saucepan, combine sauce ingredients and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sugar is dissolved. Purée the sauce in a blender or food processor and strain through a fine sieve into a bowl. Arrange tortillas on a work surface and divide Havarti, turkey, bacon, and scallions evenly between them. Drizzle some chipotle sauce over the filling and gently roll up tortillas. Toast the rolls in a lightly oiled skillet over moderately high heat, starting with seam sides down and turning until golden on all sides, about 3 minutes. Diagonally halve tortillas crosswise and serve remaining sauce separately. 156 MEAT MEAT BASIL CRUSTED VEAL CHOP Terry Pogue submitted this recipe saying, “this is my first choice for a company dinner or even a luncheon. The nice thing is, you can get them all seared off, and then hold them until you are ready to seat everyone for the first course.“ Serves 2 ¼ cup minced fresh basil ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs made from French bread with crusts removed ¼ cup (packed) freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature 2 teaspoons coarse-grained mustard 2 8-ounce veal loin chops (about 1½-inch thick) 1 tablespoon olive oil Preheat oven to 450°F. Mix basil, ¼ cup bread crumbs, Parmesan, butter, and mustard in small bowl. Pat veal chops dry; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a heavy, large ovenproof skillet, over high heat. Add veal, and cook until brown, about 1 minute per side. Remove from heat. Press basil mixture onto top of veal chops. Sprinkle 1 tablespoon remaining bread crumbs over each. Roast in oven until cooked to desired doneness, about 15 minutes for medium-rare. Tester Janet Morrissey made enough chops for planned leftovers—lunch the next day with a nice salad. I will live in a house by the side of the road and be a friend to ham. Posted by Matthew Hill 158 MEAT MEAT LOAF OF THE GODS Carol Willis likes this recipe posted by Dan Graham, a.k.a. the Scarlet Wombat. 2 pounds top quality round steak, but not the extra lean stuff 1 pungent red onion, diced 6 cloves garlic, minced 1½ cups homemade unseasoned bread crumbs 1 ⁄3 cup Romano cheese, grated 2 eggs 1 can tomato paste ½ cup mushrooms, chopped 1½ tablespoons fresh thyme 1½ tablespoons fresh oregano 1 teaspoon salt (more, if desired) 1 tablespoon pepper, freshly ground 1 teaspoon cracked mustard seeds 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1 teaspoon dried basil leaves Bacon strips Using your hands. mix everything except for the bacon strips in a large bowl. Place the meat on a large piece of extra wide heavy duty aluminum foil. Shape into a log the size of a 9-by-12-inch pan, and wrap completely with bacon strips. Wrap the log in the foil; seal lighly. Poke little holes in the bottom of the foil so the fat may drip out. Bake at 300°F for 1½ hours on a roasting rack in a 9x12-inch pan. Let settle for 30 minutes in cooling oven, then serve warm, or use in cold sandwiches with honey horseradish mustard and sharp cheddar cheese. Tester Tom McRae liked the recipe; Wendy Hunt used lean hamburger and made two loaves rather than one from the recipe. 159 MEAT INGRIYI (IRAQI SWEET-AND-SOUR MEAT WITH EGGPLANT) Matthew Hill originally posted this recipe.”I have since made this with Portobello mushrooms in place of meat for the vegetarians in my family. This recipe was originally posted in The Jewish Journal of Greater Los Angeles. Although it has since appeared verbatim without credit elsewhere, I have made changes, and added some comments on my experiments with it.” Serves 6 ¼ cup oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1½ pounds meat (beef, lamb, or pork) cut into 1-inch cubes Salt and freshly ground pepper Eggplant, about 1½ pounds, trimmed and sliced ½-inch thick 1 red pepper, sliced thin 1 green pepper, sliced thin 2 tomatoes, sliced thin 1 cup tomato juice ½ cup lemon juice (about 4 lemons, if freshly squeezed, which is preferable to bottled juice, but not vital) 3 tablespoons sugar Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in large pot over medium heat. Wilt the onions, stirring often. Remove the onions, salt and pepper the meat, and add to the pot, raising heat to medium-high. Brown well on all sides. Return onions to the pot, add water to cover meat, and bring to a boil. Skim off the foam that appears in the early stages. Cover, reduce to a simmer and leave for at least an hour. Drain and set aside. (Save the liquid for soup). While the meat simmers, salt eggplant slices and set them in a colander to drain for half an hour. Rinse and pat slices dry with paper towels. Heat the rest of the oil in a large skillet on medium-high. Add the eggplant in batches. Cook till lightly browned on both sides, adding oil as needed. Drain on paper towels. 160 MEAT While the oven is heating to 350°F, put a layer of eggplant in a large oiled baking dish. Put a layer of the meat and onions mixture on top, and top this with tomatoes and peppers. Season with salt and pepper. Combine the tomato and lemon juice juices with the sugar and pour over the layered meat and vegetables. Cover loosely with foil and cook for an hour to an hour and a half. The meat should be very tender. Serve hot, with rice. Matthew’s notes: The original recipe calls for beef or lamb. I have used both successfully and, straying well away from the lsorecipe’s Jewish roots, I have used pork, which I think I prefer. I have fried the eggplant in a skillet like this, or grilled it over charcoal. I prefer it grilled. Matthew also used 2 red peppers (instead of a green and a red pepper), since he dislikes green peppers. He has also used canned tomatoes, either diced or cut in half, in lieu of sliced fresh tomatoes. Tester Joanne Schweik chose beef for this dish, and cut the fat a bit by baking her eggplant at 400°F, sprayed with a bit of olive oil, until both sides were brown. “Although the preparation is a little complex—browning separate ingredients and all—it is easy to do, and then the long cooking allows time to make the rest of the meal,” Joanne writes. “People who don’t like eggplant won’t even know it’s in the dish. The sweet-sour element takes this out of the ordinary; great dish for casual company dinners.” My idea of pure heaven is to spend a day in the kitchen, peeling, chopping, and stirring while the words of a good book fill the air around me. ~Ruth Reichl Posted by Terry Pogue 161 MEAT ROMAN-STYLE VEAL CUTLETS WITH SAGE Recipe by Chris Marksberry. “Here is something I made a few weeks ago, and I was very pleased with the outcome. I served with vermicelli tossed in olive oil and garlic, and the extra sauce was excellent on the pasta.” Serves 4 4 veal cutlets, about 2 ounces each 4 fresh sage leaves 4 slices prosciutto Flour for dusting Salt Freshly ground black pepper 4 tablespoons unsalted butter ½ cup dry white wine Lemon wedges Pound each slice of veal to about ½ inch thick. Place one sage leaf and one slice of prosciutto on each veal cutlet and fold over to form a sandwich with the meat inside the prosciutto. Pound lightly and then secure with toothpicks. In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons of butter over high heat until it foams. Season the flour with salt and paper and dredge the cutlets lightly in the flour. Add to the pan and cook for 2 minutes on each side. Transfer to a platter and keep warm. Pour the wine into the pan and bring to a boil, stirring with a wooden spoon to dislodge the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Whisk in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter and season the sauce with salt and pepper. Return the cutlets to the pan just to reheat, and then transfer to plates, pour the sauce, and serve immediately with lemon wedges. Tip: To keep the cutlets warm while making the sauce, place in a 200°F oven. 162 MEAT TUSCAN-STYLE STEAK WITH ARUGULA AND PARMESAN Another excellent recipe from Terry Pogue. Serves 4 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice 2 medium cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon fresh parsley leaves, chopped 1 tablespoon fresh oregano leaves, chopped Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon vegetable oil 4 boneless strip steaks, 1- to 1¼-inches thick (8 to 10 ounces each) 8 cups arugula, loosely packed 3 ounces Parmesan cheese, cut into thin shavings In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, garlic, parsley, oregano, and a pinch each of salt and pepper until well mixed. Heat the vegetable oil in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet over medium-high heat until smoking. Meanwhile, pat the steaks dry with paper towels and season them liberally with salt and pepper. Lay the steaks in the pan and cook, without moving, until a well-browned crust forms, about 5 to 6 minutes. Using tongs, flip the steaks. Reduce the heat to medium. Cook 3 to 4 minutes more for rare (120 degrees on an instant-read thermometer) or 5 to 6 minutes for medium-rare (125 degrees). Transfer the steaks to a cutting board, tent with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Divide the arugula evenly among 4 individual plates. Cut each steak crosswise into thin strips and arrange the steak over the arugula. Drizzle any juices that collected from the meat over the greens. Re-whisk the dressing and drizzle it over the steak and greens. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and serve immediately with crusty bread to soak the juices. 163 MEAT STRACATTO DE MANZO (BRAISED BEEF IN RED WINE) WITH CAROTE ALLA GIUDIA (CARROTS IN THE JEWISH STYLE) FoodWine member Karen Brack originally posted this recipe, saying,”I made this meal for the holidays and it was a huge hit. It all has such different flavors from the usual braised beef, glazed carrots and noodle kugel (pudding) that I usually make, but it was still as easy as the more familiar versions. And it’s really delicious!” Recipes adapted from Cucina Ebraica: Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen, by Joyce Goldstein. For the beef: 3 tablespoons olive oil 1 beef roast, about 2 pounds, tied into a compact shape, or 2 pounds stewing meat, cut into 1½- to 2-inch cubes 2 large onions, diced 3 carrots, peeled and chopped (optional) 2 celery stalks, chopped (optional) 4 cups peeled, seeded and chopped tomatoes (fresh or canned) 3 or 4 cloves garlic, cut into slivers 1 lemon zest strip, about 3 inches long 1 cinnamon stick A few whole cloves (optional) 3 to 4 cups red wine, or as needed Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over high heat. Add the roast or meat cubes in batches, and brown well on all sides. Transfer to a heavy pot; add the onion, carrots and celery (if using), tomatoes, garlic, lemon zest, cinnamon stick and cloves (if using). Pour in wine to cover. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until the meat is very tender and the pan juices are thickened, about 2 hours. 164 MEAT Remove and discard cinnamon stick, lemon zest and cloves. Season the beef with salt and pepper, and serve with carrots (recipe follows). Variations: Sauté the onions, carrots and celery in olive oil before adding to the pot. For more flavors, marinate the meat overnight in the wine, lemon zest, garlic and cinnamon. Then drain, reserving the marinade, and dry and brown the beef. Add the marinade to the pot for braising the meat. Karen has made with beef short ribs. For the carrots: ¼ to 1⁄3 cup rendered goose or chicken fat, or olive oil 1½ pounds carrots, peeled and thinly sliced ¼ cup water 6 tablespoons raisins, plumped in water or sweet wine 3 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste Dash of vinegar or sugar to taste (optional) Heat the fat or oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the carrots and sauté until well coated with fat, 5 to 8 minutes. Add the water and cover the pan. Reduce heat to very low and simmer until the carrots are tender, about 20 minutes. Add the raisins, with their liquid, and the pine nuts. Season with salt and pepper. Add a little sugar, or vinegar, or both, if you like. Serve hot or at room temperature. Tester Tom McRae adds, “Wonderful dish; very easy to prepare and cook. Meat was wonderfully tender and full of flavor. I have cooked this several times; great way to handle a tough piece of beef.” 165 MEAT WINE-BRAISED SHORT RIBS =Mark Stevens, exit 109, originally posted this dish, which he likes to serve with onions and mushrooms sautéed together, and garlic mashed potatoes. 6 pounds beef short ribs, cut into 1-rib pieces Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 tablespoon olive oil 3 medium onions, chopped 1 pound bag carrots, cut in 1-inch pieces 6 stalks celery, cut in 1-inch pieces 5 large garlic cloves, crushed 2 cups dry red wine ½ cup dry sherry 1 28- to 32-ounce can whole tomatoes including liquid, smooshed by hand 16 ounces beef broth, plus more as needed 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 6 3-by-1-inch strips fresh orange zest, removed with a vegetable peeler 3 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crumbled Finely chopped fresh parsley leaves for garnish Pat short ribs dry and season with salt and pepper. In a heavy 8-quart kettle, heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, and brown ribs in batches, transferring with tongs to a large bowl. Add chopped onions to kettle and cook over moderate heat, stirring, until golden. Add garlic and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add wine and sherry, tomatoes, beef broth, carrots, celery, Worcestershire sauce, orange zest, rosemary, and salt and bring to a boil. Add ribs, including any juices that have accumulated in bowl. Add remaining broth as needed to cover ribs and simmer, covered, 3½ hours, or until meat is tender. Transfer meat with a slotted spoon to a large bowl. Let ribs cool until they can be handled, then remove bones and any large areas of fat. Skim fat from 166 MEAT braising liquid and reduce, if necessary. Return meat to kettle and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until heated through. After serving and/or storing ribs and vegetables, strain braising liquid and refrigerate. When fat solidifies, skim it from container. You’ll end up with a seasoned beef broth that can be frozen or used as a base for soups or stews. Beverly Bradley reported her husband and son could be found drooling over the pot while this dish cooked. “We liked it. My husband and son wanted a thicker sauce, and I could have thickened it more. I simmered it for only 3 hours, and the meat was fork-tender and delicious. I skimmed a lot of fat off, using a gravy separator, while the ribs were simmering. The broth and leftover meat will make an excellent base for soup tomorrow, a very nice bonus.” Where ya’ from? Jersey. Yeah? What exit? Posted by =Mark, exit 109 Give a man a fish, he eats for a Day. Teach a man to fish, he eats for Life. Teach a man to sell fish, he eats steak. Posted by =Mark 167 MEAT TATER TOT CASSEROLE Tina Vierra shared this recipe from her favorite Auntie. “It ain’t highbrow, but my friends request this one regularly throughout the winter months.” Serves 6 1 package frozen tater tots 2 pounds raw hamburger 1 bag frozen vegetables (corn, peas, or green beans are best) 2 cans cream soup (Cream of Celery or Cream of Mushroom) About ¼ cup milk Preheat oven to 400°F. On the bottom of a 13-by-9-by-2-inch casserole dish, press the raw hamburger in a flat even layer. Then spread an even layer of the frozen tater tots, followed by a layer of the frozen vegetable. In a bowl or measuring cup, empty the two cans of cream soup and mix with a small amount of milk to thin it. Pour the soup mixture over the casserole layers. Bake for 60 minutes, or until the top layer browns a little, the hamburger is cooked through, and the tots are crisping when you check underneath. You can cut this recipe easily in half and use an 8-by-8-inch square baking dish to feed 2 to 4 people. Chris Marksberry called this “true comfort food,” and said her husband asked to have it once a month. It is a cruel thing to do to a beer to make it leave its home area code. Posted by Matthew Hill 168 MEAT LAMB AND ORZO WITH INDIAN SPICES Terry Pogue told us, “If you like Indian flavors, you will love this dish.” Serves 4 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 pound lean ground lamb 2 tablespoons garlic, minced 2 tablespoons ginger, minced 1 jalapeño pepper, chopped 1¼ teaspoons ground cardamom 1½ teaspoons curry powder 8 ounces orzo pasta 2 cups canned beef broth, plus more if needed 1 cup ripe tomatoes, chopped ½ cup cilantro, chopped Heat oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add lamb and sauté until cooked through, breaking up with back of spoon, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer lamb to bowl. Reduce heat to medium. Add garlic, ginger and chili to same skillet and sauté 2 minutes. Add cardamom, curry powder and orzo and stir together for 1 minute. Add broth and bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low. Cover and cook until orzo is tender and most of broth is absorbed, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking on bottom of skillet, about 15 minutes. Return lamb to skillet along with the tomato and mix in. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mound the orzo-lamb mixture on large platter and garnish with the cilantro. Serving suggestion: Serve with mango chutney and cold yogurt or raita. Maryellen Casey used close to a cup of additional broth, and says the dish was even better a day later when flavors melded nicely. 169 MEAT FOREVER ROASTED LAMB Lyn Belisle nominated this recipe that was originally posted by Terry Pogue, channeling chef Michael Chiarello. Serves 6 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 medium onions, peeled and thinly sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1½ teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage leaves ¾ cup water 4 pounds leg of lamb, at room temperature 4 carrots 4 stalks celery About ¼ cup fennel spice seasoning (see recipe below) Preheat the oven to 250°F. Line roasting pan with heavy-duty foil for easy cleanup. Place in the oven to warm. Heat olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add onions and a pinch of salt and pepper. Reduce heat to medium-low and cook for about 1 minute. Add sage and cook about 3 minutes. Add water, cover, and cook until the onions are very tender, about 10 minutes. Uncover and sauté until the onions are very soft and the pan is dry again, about 2 minutes. Set aside. Slice open the leg of lamb and lay flat. Season meat well with about half of the fennel spice seasoning and salt and pepper to taste. Spread half of the sautéed onion mixture directly on top of the seasoning, inside the leg of lamb. Roll up the meat and tie with kitchen twine. Set aside the remaining onion mixture. Rub the outside of the lamb with rest of the fennel spice seasoning. Remove the roasting pan from the oven and lay the carrots and celery on the bottom. Place the lamb on top of the carrots and celery, drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and cook for 7 hours. Spread the remaining onion mixture on top of the 170 MEAT lamb, place a foil tent over the lamb and roast for an additional hour. The lamb is ready when it pulls away easily if picked at with a pair of tongs. FENNEL SPICE SEASONING 1 cup fennel seed 3 tablespoons coriander seed 2 tablespoons white pepper corns 3 tablespoons kosher salt Put the fennel seeds, coriander seeds, and peppercorns in a heavy pan over medium heat. Watch carefully, tossing frequently so the seeds toast evenly. When seeds are light brown and fragrant, pour onto a plate to cool before grinding (or they will gum up the blades). Pour the seeds into a blender and add the salt. Blend to a fine powder, shaking the blender occasionally to redistribute the seeds. Store in a tightly sealed glass jar in a cool, dry place, or freeze. Seasoning recipe notes: The minimum amount you can successfully grind in the blender is one cup, so if you’d like to cut the recipe in half, use a spice grinder. You can use this spice as a rub on any cut of pork, veal chops or chicken breast. A little bit added to lentil soup gives a nice depth of flavor. This spice mixture makes a welcome gift to friends. Tester Gretl Collins thought that the addition of garlic would be good for this recipe. “The fennel rub is delicious! I think you could add granulated garlic to the rub, or add chopped fresh garlic to the onion mixture. We served the lamb with some jalapeño jelly. It’s like mint jelly, but with a bit of a kick. Boy, was that a good accompaniment.” 171 MEAT LAMB WITH APRICOT, CINNAMON, AND CUMIN STUFFING Serves 4 to 6 ½ cup bulgur 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground cumin ¾ cup dried apricots, chopped 2 ⁄3 cup pine nuts 1 boned shoulder of lamb, 4 to 4½ pounds ½ cup red wine ½ cup lamb stock Salt and freshly ground black pepper Place the bulgur in a bowl and add enough warm water to cover. Let it soak for about an hour and then drain thoroughly. Heat the oil in a saucepan and add the onion and garlic. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in the cinnamon, cumin, apricots and pine nuts. Salt and pepper to taste, then stir in the bulgur. Preheat oven to 350°F. Open up the lamb shoulder and spread the bulgur stuffing on it. Roll up firmly and tie with kitchen string. Place in a roasting pan. Roast for 1 hour. Pour stock and red wine into the pan. Roast an additional 30 minutes. Remove from pan and place on a plate with foil over the plate. Let the meat rest for an additional 15 minutes before carving. Skim the surface fat from the juices in the roasting pan. Place the pan on the stovetop over high heat and boil the juices, stirring occasionally. Carve the lamb and spoon over some of the gravy Janet Morrissey says she’s used a butterflied and boned leg of lamb instead of lamb shoulder, and chicken or veal stock in place of lamb stock. 172 MEAT CURRIED LAMB CHOPS Terry Pogue says that “since there are just the two of us, this is a perfect meal. Using a small, usually Australian rack of lamb, cut into chops, you get just enough for a really nice dinner and leftovers for lunch the next day. Or because the rack is frenched, we can even eat them as finger food. The lemon and curry gives the meat a lovely bright flavor.” 2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon curry powder ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 rack of lamb, cut into 6 chops 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1 tablespoon vegetable oil To prepare the rack, the chine, or major backbone, needs to be cut so that the rack can be cut into chops. Trim the layer of fat on the side of many racks. Mix flour with curry powder, salt and pepper. Dip both sides of chops into the lemon juice. Then dredge well in seasoned flour. Heat oil in a large ovenproof skillet over medium high heat. Add chops and cook first side until golden brown, about 1½ minutes. Flip the chops and lightly brown second side, 1 to 2 minutes. Recipe options: For very large lamb chops, preheat oven to 350°F and increase the frying time. After browning in the pan, transfer to oven and roast, turning once, until medium rare, 8 to 10 minutes. Tester Denny Arar said her rack of lamb was larger, so she doubled the dredging materials and increased the amount of lemon juice to fit. “I’m always on the lookout for dinner recipes I can prepare on weeknights coming home from work. This fits the bill, and we scarfed up all the chops.” 173 MEAT MADHUR JAFFREY’S GRILLED BONELESS LEG OF LAMB This recipe was included in Craig Claiborne’s Favorites from the New York Times, a sadly out-of-print four-volume set of Claiborne’s favorite columns from his years as food editor of the Sunday Times Magazine. Karen Brack, who posted it, says, “Use the spice measurements as...suggestions.” Serves 6 to 8 8- to 9-pound leg of lamb, boned and butterflied 2 medium onions 1 piece ginger, about 3 inches long and 1 inch wide, roughly chopped 5 to 7 cloves of garlic, peeled 2 ⁄3 cup lemon juice 1 tablespoon ground coriander 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1 teaspoon garam masala 1 teaspoon ground turmeric ¼ teaspoon ground mace ¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon ¼ teaspoon ground cloves 1 cup olive oil 2½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper Cayenne pepper to taste, optional 12 radishes for garnish, optional Roughly chop 1 onion and put into work bowl of food processor (for the marinade); set aside the second onion. Add ginger, garlic, and ¼ cup of lemon juice to onions in food processor, and process until smooth. Add remaining ingredients (except the radishes) for the marinade; process to combine. 174 MEAT Trim excess fat from lamb and, using a sharp pointed knife, pierce the flesh all over, on both sides. Put meat into non-reactive container, large enough to hold the meat and marinade comfortably. Rub the marinade paste onto the meat, over. Cover and refrigerate. Let marinate 24 hours, turning occasionally. Grill or broil meat to desired doneness. As the meat cooks, slice the remaining onion into very thin rounds and drop into ice water. Clean radishes and cut into radish roses, if desired. When ready to serve, garnish meat platter with well drained onion slices and radish roses. Tester Janet pronounced this excellent, and thinks that this would be a great marinade with pork as well. Signoffs from the list member known as the stray grey mouse: mouse, who is always amazed at the contents of other people’s fridges and women’s pocketbooks, and who upon first entering someone else’s home always makes a bee-line for the book shelves to see what sort of person it’s just made the acquaintance of. mouse (who is occasionally an irrationably stubborn little critter—and not a vegetarian, either) 175 MEAT MEXICAN STYLE PORK SANDWICH Originally posted by Terry Pogue. Serves 4 1 slow-roasted pork butt (see below), sliced and excess fat removed (bone-in pork shoulder is also great) 1 cup mayonnaise 2 canned chipotle chili peppers in adobo sauce 4 soft rolls, split in half 4 plum tomatoes, cut into 20 thin slices 1 avocado, peeled, seeded, and cut into 16 thin slices 8 thin slices pepper jack cheese To make the slow roasted pork, rub it all over with McCormick’s Pork Rub or any seasoning you like—Terry uses a combination of fennel, coriander, and pepper. Then place into a 275°F oven for about 10 hours. Terry suggests popping it into the oven at bedtime, and letting it roast overnight, uncovered. Remove excess fat and slice the pork. To make the sandwiches, preheat oven to 350°F. Place mayonnaise and chipotle peppers in a food processor; blend until smooth. Generously spread cut sides of rolls with the chipotle mayonnaise. Cover the bottom half of each roll with generous slices of pork, overlapping the slices. Top each portion of pork with 5 tomato slices and 4 avocado slices. Cover with 2 slices of cheese. Place assembled sandwiches open faced on a sheet pan and bake until cheese is melted, about 8 minutes. Cover the sandwiches, slice in half and serve immediately. Tester Constance Felten says, “This is pig heaven. My kids, who are kind of off pork, except for a couple of dishes, LOVE this sandwich. We are all practically clawing at the oven by the time the pork has finished cooking.” 176 MEAT PORK CHOPS WITH CAPERS Recipe by Bob Coomler. Serves 4 1½ pounds pork chops, cut fairly thin Flour for dredging Salt and pepper 2 ounces vegetable oil 8 ounces beef stock 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 ounce capers, chopped 1 ounce sweet gherkins, chopped Cut any surplus fat off the pork, season with salt and pepper, and dip in flour on both sides. Shake off excess. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and sauté the pork chops, turning frequently until they are golden on both sides. Add the beef stock and vinegar; bring to a boil and cover. Turn down the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Before serving, add the capers and gherkins (stir in a bit earlier for a more dispersed flavor if desired). Oh Wad Some Power the Giftie Gie Us Tae See Oorsel’s as Ithers See Us ~Robert Burns Posted by Tom McRae, Brisbane, Australia 177 MEAT PORK CHOPS WITH PEACH SALSA Janet Morrissey submitted this and says “This is a favorite during the summer when the peaches are ripe and luscious. The peach salsa is also good with chicken and fish. It’s especially good over ice cream.” Serves 6-8 8 boneless pork loin chops, cut 1¼ to 1½ inches thick ¼ cup lime juice ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce ¼ cup coarse-grain brown mustard or Dijon-style mustard 3 tablespoons vinegar 2 tablespoons water 1½ teaspoons ground cumin ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Place the pork loin chops in a clean, heavy plastic bag. Set the bag in a large bowl. Combine the lime juice, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, vinegar, water, cumin, salt, and pepper. Pour over the pork in bag; seal the bag. Marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or up to 24 hours, turning occasionally. Remove the pork from the bag, reserving marinade. Put marinade into a heavy bottom pot and bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. (Add a tablespoon or two of water if it gets too thick.) Grill method: Cook the pork on an uncovered grill directly over medium coals for 15 to 25 minutes or until juices run clear, and meat is still slightly pink in center. Halfway through cooking, turn and brush with reduced marinade. Oven method: Place pork on unheated rack of a broiler pan. Broil 4 to 5 inches from heat for 15 to 25 minutes or until juices run clear, turning once halfway through cooking and brushing with reduced marinade. 178 MEAT PEACH SALSA 1¾ cups chopped and peeled fresh peaches ½ cup chopped red sweet pepper 1 cup chopped, seeded cucumber ¼ cup sliced green onion 1 to 2 jalapeño or habanera peppers, seeded and finely chopped 2 tablespoons honey or 1 tablespoon Splenda 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 tablespoon snipped fresh cilantro or parsley. In a medium size mixing bowl, combine all ingredients. Cover and chill for up to 4 hours, stirring once or twice. Makes about 2½ cups salsa. Tester Diane Laux assembled this recipe in the morning, packed it all up with chips, and cooked it at a friend’s house that evening, where everyone liked the meal. They had extra salsa as a snack with chips. Signed: Dan Graham, who never ceases to be amazed at how marvelous people can be. Philip Osztromok (the worst little cook in Scotland— but stubborn with it)! These Comments are MINE!. MINE! MINE! MINE! They certainly do not reflect the beliefs of the organization with which I am employed; anyone who knows me would be among the first to agree! Posted by Richard F Gillespie Jr. Sherry & Randell, in a cozy chair with their Armagnac, soft music, and warm memories 179 MEAT ROAST PORK TENDERLOIN CHINESE STYLE This recipe comes from a cookbook published some years ago by the Crème de la Crème committee of the Art Gallery of Brantford, Ontario Serves 6 3 pork tenderloins, ¾ pound each 1 cup chicken stock ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons sherry 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon powdered ginger 2 tablespoons cornstarch Combine chicken stock, soy sauce, honey, sherry, lemon juice, garlic, cinnamon, salt and ginger. Marinate meat in this mixture for two hours. Drain meat and reserve liquid. Preheat oven to 325°F. Coat the meat with cornstarch and place in shallow roasting pan. Bake for 1½ hours, basting frequently with marinade. To serve, slice on the diagonal and garnish with parsley and lemon slices. FoodWine member Sheila Foster suggests that you line the roasting pan, and that the marinade should be boiled after marinating and before basting, for food safety purposes. 180 MEAT SPICY ORANGE PORK CHOPS This is quick and easy and very good. You can vary the spiciness to your taste. The sauce is also good with chicken and stronger-flavored fish. Serves 4 1 6-ounce can frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed 1½ cups rum 1 habanero pepper (or your favorite hot pepper), seeded 1 teaspoon sugar 4 thick-cut boneless pork chops, butterflied 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste Combine the orange juice, rum, sugar, and habanero pepper in blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Place in small pot over medium heat and simmer to reduce, 5 to 10 minutes. In a large pan, sauté the pork chops in the oil for 4 to 6 minutes on each side until nicely browned. Add the orange juice/habanero mixture to the pan. Cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Turn chops over and simmer, covered, for 10 more minutes. Susan Schoneweis likes her chops pink and suggests soaking them in this marinade, grilling until lightly pink but safe to eat, then cooking the marinade separately until slightly reduced. Pour over the chops. A dining room table with children’s eager, hungry faces around it ceases to be a mere dining room table and becomes an altar. ~Simeon Strunsky Posted by Janet Morrissey a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 181 MEAT PORK LOIN WITH GREEN PEPPERCORN SAUCE Terry Pogue based this on a recipe in Barefoot in Paris (by Ina Garten). You can easily halve it for a smaller rack. A great, easy meal for company. Serves 8 to 10 1 pork loin, bone in, Frenched and tied (about 5 pounds, 10 bones) 2 tablespoons good olive oil 4 teaspoons Dijon mustard, divided 4 teaspoons whole-grain mustard, divided 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 cup good white wine 3 cups homemade chicken stock (recipe follows), or canned broth ¼ cup green peppercorns in brine, drained Preheat the oven to 400°F. Allow the pork to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes. Place the pork, fat side up, in a roasting pan just large enough to hold it comfortably. In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, 2 teaspoons of each mustard, the fennel seed, 2 teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Rub the mixture on top of the pork and roast for 1 to 1¼ hours, until the internal temperature reaches 140°F. Remove from the oven, transfer to a cutting board, and cover tightly with aluminum foil for 20 minutes. For the sauce, remove all but ¼ cup of fat from the roasting pan. If there isn’t ¼ cup, add enough butter to the pan to make ¼ cup total. Over medium heat, whisk the flour into the fat in the pan and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine and scrape up all the brown bits from the bottom of the pan. Add the chicken stock, the remaining 2 teaspoons of each of the mustards, the 182 MEAT green peppercorns, 2 teaspoons salt, and ½ teaspoon black pepper. Bring to a boil, and then lower the heat to a simmer for 5 to 10 minutes, until the sauce is reduced and slightly thickened. Remove the strings from the roast pork, slice between the bones, and serve warm with the hot sauce. Denny Arar regularly makes this dish for dinner parties. “The pickled peppercorns burst in your mouth like a little fireworks of flavor, and the meat was wonderfully tasty.” HOMEMADE CHICKEN STOCK Makes 6 quarts 3 5-pound chickens 3 large unpeeled onions, quartered 6 unpeeled carrots, halved 4 celery stalks with leaves, cut in thirds 4 unpeeled parsnips, cut in half (optional) 20 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley 15 sprigs fresh thyme 20 sprigs fresh dill 1 head unpeeled garlic, cut in half crosswise 2 tablespoons kosher salt 2 teaspoons whole black peppercorns Place ingredients and 7 quarts of water in a 16- to 20-quart stockpot and bring to a boil. Skim the surface as needed. Simmer uncovered for 4 hours. Strain the entire contents of the pot through a colander, discarding the chicken and vegetables, and chill. Discard the hardened fat on top, and then pack the broth in quart containers. 183 MEAT TUSCAN PORK WITH RED-PEPPER RELISH In the way recipes have of traveling and changing, Matthew Hill gives us this one, from a Baltimore Sun article by Rob Kasper, who adapted it from The Bon Appétit Cookbook by Barbara Fairchild. “The only significant addition I made,” Matthew said, “is to crush some rosemary and let it soak overnight in orange juice. I then strained the juice and injected it into the pork.” Serves 6 Red-pepper relish: 1½ pounds red bell peppers (about 3 large) 2 tablespoons drained capers 1 tablespoon olive oil 4 anchovies, chopped 2 teaspoons grated orange peel 2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar ¼ teaspoon dried crushed pepper Salt and pepper to taste Pork: ½ cup fresh rosemary leaves (about 2 large bunches) 1 ⁄3 cup olive oil 6 large cloves garlic Peel from 1 orange, orange part only, removed in strips with vegetable peeler 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon ground black pepper 1 3½-pound pork rib roast For red-pepper relish, char peppers over flame or barbecue grill until blackened on all sides. Enclose in paper bag for 10 minutes. Peel and seed peppers. Transfer peppers to food processor; using pulse button, chop peppers coarsely. 184 MEAT Transfer peppers to bowl. Mix in remaining ingredients for relish, seasoning to taste with salt and pepper. Let stand 1 hour. This can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate. Prepare the pork: Combine rosemary, oil, garlic, orange peel, salt and pepper in a food processor; blend until thick and almost smooth. Spread rosemary purée evenly over pork. Let stand while preparing barbecue fire. (Pork also can be prepared 1 day ahead, covered and chilled. Bring to room temperature before continuing.) Prepare an indirect fire (briquettes or gas heat on one side) in kettle barbecue cooker, with bottom vents open. Place pork bone side down on grate, away from heat. Cover with lid, positioning open top vent of lid directly over pork. Grill pork 1 hour, and then turn it with tongs. Cook until instant-read thermometer inserted into top center of meat registers 140°F to 145°F. Transfer meat to platter, tent loosely with foil and let stand 15 minutes before slicing. Serve with pepper relish. Think where man’s glory most begins and ends, And I say my glory was I had such friends. ~William Butler Yeats Posted by Janet Morrissey, a.k.a. Mostly Harmless The table is a meeting place, a gathering ground, the source of sustenance and nourishment, festivity, safety, and satisfaction. ~Laurie Colwin Posted by Ellen in Dallas 185 MEAT LESLIE’S MOM’S SWEET AND SOUR PORK Originally posted by Denny Arar who “… learned the basics of this recipe in college from a roommate, whose mom learned it as an army wife during the war. I’ve refined it a bit over the years. The sauce is very vinegary and tangy, which I love.” Serves 4 as a main course, or more as part of a Chinese meal 6 scant tablespoons ketchup 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar 3 tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 1 to 2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with half a cup of water 2 pounds pork (almost any cut will do), cut in 1½ inch cubes 2 tablespoons cornstarch plus more for dredging wet pork Dry sherry or rice wine Soy sauce 1 cup peanut oil 6 to 8 slices fresh ginger root 6 to 8 scallions, white parts minced, darker parts cut in one-inch pieces on the diagonal 2 green bell peppers, cut in bite-sized pieces Combine first five ingredients for sauce. Wet the two tablespoons cornstarch with sherry or rice wine, soy sauce, and water. The consistency should be wet and slightly thck. Coat the pork with wet cornstarch, then dredge in dry cornstarch, tapping off excess. Heat oil in a deep skillet and fry pork pieces in batches until golden brown; set aside. Strain oil and reserve 3 to 4 tablespoons (or just use clean oil if you wish). Wipe out skillet and reheat the reserved oil. Sauté ginger, scallions and peppers for a few minutes until crispy-tender. Add pork pieces and mix. 186 MEAT Stir sauce to distribute settled cornstarch, pour over meat and vegetables, and stir until it thickens and coats everything. Serve immediately with steamed rice. Maryellen Casey reported, “I don’t know how authentic it is to use ketchup, red wine vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce to make sweet-and-sour sauce, but this was easily better than the sweet-and-sour pork we can get at either of our two neighborhood Chinese take-out places, and I’ll definitely make it again! It wasn’t too sweet, which is my biggest objection to what I can get locally.” One can drink too much, but one never drinks enough. ~Gotthold Ephraim Lessing Posted by Ellen in Dallas One Tequila, Two Tequila, Three Tequila ...FLOOR! Posted by John My only regret in life is that I did not drink more Champagne. ~John Maynard Keynes Posted by Leslie 187 MEAT SPICY PORK WITH NOODLES Constance Felten gave us this recipe. Serves 4 1 pound ground pork 1 cup minced scallions 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon peeled and minced ginger 1 cup chicken stock 2 tablespoons black bean sauce 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce 1 tablespoon chili-garlic sauce 1 tablespoon soy sauce ½ pound egg or wheat noodles 1 tablespoon sesame oil (or to taste) Bring a large pot of water to the boil. Meanwhile crumble pork into large skillet over medium-high heat. Stir to break up clumps. After pork is browned, add half the scallions along with garlic and ginger, and stir. Add stock. Stir in the bean, hoisin, chili and soy sauces. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally, until thick. Reduce heat and keep warm. Cook noodles in boiling water until done. Drain and top with pork mixture. Top with remaining scallions, and drizzle with sesame oil. Note: You can substitute beef, chicken or turkey for the pork. Constance likes to use the thin soup noodles (brand name Mrs. Grass) to serve under the pork. Egg noodles seem to work best. Testers Wendy Hunt and Denny Arar found this a nice meat/noodle dish alternative to Italian pastas. Both found it fast and easy to make, and liked the sauce. 188 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS PASTA, RICE & GRAINS ARROZ VERDE (GREEN RICE) Gretl Collins nominated Terry Pogue’s favorite household rice recipe. Serves 4 ½ cup fresh cilantro, tightly packed 1 cup fresh spinach, tightly packed 1¼ cups chicken broth 1¼ cups milk 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1½ cups long-grain rice ¼ cup onion, finely minced 1 clove garlic, minced Put the cilantro, spinach, and broth in a blender and blend until the vegetables are pureed. Add the milk and salt, and blend a bit more until well combined. In a medium (3 quart) heavy-base saucepan with a lid (or a Dutch oven), heat the butter and olive oil over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the rice and sauté, stirring about every 30 seconds, until it begins to turn golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add onion and garlic and cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the contents of the blender, stir well, turn the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, turn heat to very low, and cook for 20 minutes. Stir rice carefully to avoid crushing it, cover, and cook for another 5 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and let the rice steam in the covered pot for 10 minutes. Serve hot. If you are cilantro-averse, substitute parsley. Gretl adds: “We love this recipe! It’s beautiful, and very flavorful. For an Indian dinner, I substitute coconut milk for the cow’s milk and add 6 cardamom pods. 190 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS FETTUCCINE AND SHRIMP IN SCALLION-GINGER-CHILI SAUCE Rosebud has made this recipe since 1996. “It was originally from back when the Food Network really was about food and cooking.” Serves 2 with enough leftovers for lunch the next day ⁄3 pound fettuccine 2 teaspoons fresh ginger root, finely chopped 2 scallions, finely chopped 2 tablespoons pecan pieces, finely chopped 1 teaspoon peanut oil 12 large shrimp (about ½ pound), cooked or uncooked 1 teaspoon chili sauce 1 teaspoon soy sauce 1 teaspoon crushed garlic 1 teaspoon dark (toasted) sesame oil 1 Bring a medium pan of water to a boil. In a food processor, finely chop the ginger, scallions, garlic, and pecans. In a small bowl, combine the chili sauce, soy sauce, and sesame oil. If using uncooked shrimp, clean and remove tails. Cook the fettuccine in boiling water until tender but still chewy. Drain. Heat wok over medium-high heat and add peanut oil. Add chopped vegetables; stir a minute or two. Add shrimp (if raw, cook and stir until pink and just cooked through; if already cooked, stir until heated through). Add wet ingredients and stir until shrimp is coated. Then add pasta, and toss and stir until coated and heated through; serve immediately. Maggie Johnson loved this dish. “The pecans add just enough crunch and the sauce is just spicy enough.” Tester Maryellen Casey used an Asian chili sauce, which gave her dish a spicy kick, and said she planned to double the amounts of soy sauce and sesame oil (while holding steady on the chili sauce). Both testers said the speedy prep time made this suitable for weeknight meals. 191 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS CURRIED COUSCOUS Terry Pogue and several other list members are fans of chef Ina Garten, television’s Barefoot Contessa. Here’s Terry’s take on a Garten dish. Serves 6 1½ cups couscous 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1½ cups boiling water ¼ cup plain yogurt ¼ cup good-quality olive oil 1 teaspoon white wine vinegar 1 teaspoon curry powder ¼ teaspoon ground turmeric 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ½ cup small-diced carrots ½ cup minced fresh flat-leaf parsley ½ cup dried currants or raisins ¼ cup blanched, sliced almonds 2 scallions, thinly sliced (white and green parts) ¼ cup small-diced red onion Place the couscous in a medium bowl. Melt the butter in the boiling water and pour over the couscous. Cover tightly and allow the couscous to soak for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork. Whisk together the yogurt, olive oil, vinegar, curry, turmeric, salt, and pepper. Pour over the fluffed couscous, and mix well with a fork. Add the carrots, parsley, currants, almonds, scallions, and red onions, mix well, and season to taste. Serve at room temperature. Variations: Add diced broccoli and cucumbers, omitting the raisins and parsley, and reducing the amount of cilantro. Add about ¼ teaspoon curry paste along 192 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS with the curry powder for more heat. Use less olive oil (about 3 tablespoons) Use finely julienned carrots and diced red pepper for color and bite. Tester Beatrice Powell commented: “Loved it—very easy, very good. Goes well with so many things and it can really be served hot, cold, or at room temperature. I’ve tried the recipe with different add-ins: I especially like adding leftover grilled tandoori chicken and then heating the dish gently.“ Tester Wendy Hunt has been serving this in her café for years, usually without the salt, yogurt, or almonds. The almonds tend to get soggy when the dish is served from her cold case all day long, and her customers felt the added salt was not necessary. Where do Foodwinos hail from? Michelle Lucas In Sunny Hottttttttttttttttt Houston!!!!!!!!!!!! Chris in Houston (really Friendswood) Susan from Grand Rapids, Michigan Derek in New Orleans Kathy in SLO, CA Nancy in Madras Alain (on the other side of the ocean, in Pau, France) Paige in Jamaica 193 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS FETTUCCINI ALFREDO WITH PROSCIUTTO AND PEAS Chris Marksberry contributed this recipe, warning that it’s not exactly lowcalorie or low-fat, but it certainly is delicious. Serves 4 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 shallots, minced 1 teaspoon minced garlic 1 cup heavy cream Salt and freshly ground pepper ¼ pound prosciutto, julienned 1 cup frozen peas, thawed ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, plus more for garnish 1 pound fresh fettuccini Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add shallots and garlic and sauté for a couple minutes or until tender. Add cream and cook for 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. Add prosciutto and peas and toss gently to combine. Sprinkle cheese over the top and stir to melt and combine. Cook until heated through. In a large pot of boiling salted water, add fettuccini and cook until al dente, just a couple minutes for fresh pasta. Drain, reserving ¼ cup of the pasta water. Add the reserved pasta water and drained fettuccini to skillet. Toss to combine pasta with sauce and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Serve, garnished with extra cheese. Tester Janet Morrissey pronounced this another fast and tasty dish. “I used Dreamfields dry pasta for this. The next time I make this, though, will be when the Farmers Market has fresh peas. Soon, I hope!” 194 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS LIME-CILANTRO RICE Doreen’s recipe turns out beautifully flavored and perfectly cooked rice. Serves 4 2 cups water 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 teaspoon coarse salt ¼ teaspoon ground cumin 1 cup white rice Juice of ½ lime (about 2 tablespoons) 1 tablespoon freshly chopped cilantro In a medium saucepan, bring water, butter, salt, and cumin to a boil over medium-high heat. Stir in rice, and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook, covered, until liquid is absorbed, about 20 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat; add lime juice and cilantro. Fluff with a fork until combined. Serve immediately. Denny Arar chose to test this recipe because she loves cooked rice with a kick of citrus, and she said the cumin and cilantro combined with citrus made an unusual and tasty side dish. Citrus lovers should use the amount of lime juice indicated; if you feel the flavor is too strong, decrease by half. Her husband, not usually a fan of cilantro, also liked this dish. I’ve found another word for sushi: bait. Posted by Greg Talk doesn’t cook rice. ~Chinese proverb Posted by Sheila in Southern Southern California 195 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS PASTA WITH HAM, TOMATO AND PARSLEY Rosebud nominated Chris Babcock’s easy weeknight pasta. Serves 2 to 4 Pasta (linguini, spaghetti, or other string pasta is recommended) 1 ⁄3 cup butter 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 cup minced parsley 1½ cup chopped tomato ½ cup green onion, minced 1 cup cooked ham slivers or chunks Salt and pepper to taste Grated Parmesan (about ¼ cup) Cook the pasta in boiling, salted water. While the pasta is cooking, melt butter in a skillet. Add green onions, garlic and parsley. Sauté for 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and ham. Sauté everything until warm. Add Parmesan. When melted, spoon over hot pasta. Chris’s note: “I buy one of the small ham packages...about two pounds’ worth. If I’m really lazy I’ll buy the ham already cut into half-inch cubes.” Tester Janet Morrissey suggests holding back half of the parsley, and adding it at the end for a fresh, herbal flavor. Thou shalt not weigh more than thy refrigerator. Posted by Greg Walker 196 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS RED WINE RICE Gretl Collins says that this Arizona Chris recipe is one of her family’s favorites. Serves 4 to 6 1 cup raw rice ½ cup butter 1 cup fresh tomatoes, chopped ½ cup chopped green onion 3 cups chicken broth ½ cup red wine 2 teaspoons salt Pinch of pepper ¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese In a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat, cook rice, tomato and onion in butter for until the rice is translucent. Add wine and seasonings, and mix well. Add chicken broth, cover and simmer on low up to 45 minutes, until the rice is tender. Stir in the cheese. Gretl’s notes: “In place of 1 cup chopped fresh tomatoes, you can use a thoroughly drained can (14 or 15 ounces) of chopped tomatoes (I usually use Muir Glen brand). Add 1 teaspoon salt instead of 2, and cut the 3 cups chicken broth down to 2 cups (then watch to add more if necessary); my pinch of pepper is probably more like ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper.” Terry Pogue reports this is a beautiful company dish, a lot like a firm risotto. 197 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS SAFFRON ORZO Foodwinos have long found that sometimes the simplest dishes are the best. Terry Pogue says you can add vegetables (and even Parmesan cheese) to this dish but advises cooks to try the simple recipe first. As with so many recipes that call for the use of stock, the better your stock, the better the dish. Terry uses Minor’s Chicken Base for great full flavor, but homemade stock (see page 183) would be even better. Serves 6 4 cups chicken stock 1 teaspoon saffron threads 1 pound dried orzo ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil ½ lemon, juiced 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley In a medium saucepan, bring the chicken stock to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low, bringing the stock to a simmer. Add the saffron, stir, and allow the saffron to bloom, about 5 minutes. Increase the heat to bring the stock to a boil, then add the orzo and cook until tender but still firm to the bite, stirring occasionally, about 10 minutes until stock is absorbed. If it seems a little dry, add a little more stock or water. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, and parsley. Toss to combine. Tester Stacey Marien used vegetable broth instead of chicken broth, and found she had a delicious vegetarian dish. 198 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS STEEL CUT OATMEAL PILAF Karen Brack got this recipe from Central Market after tasting it several times. “This is a wonderful side dish alternative to rice, potatoes and all the usual suspects. It is nubbly and rather creamy, more like a risotto than a pilaf.” Serves 4 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 cup steel cut oatmeal 1 medium onion, finely chopped 1 cup mushrooms, sliced or chopped 2 cups chicken or vegetable broth ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper ½ teaspoon salt (if broth is unsalted) 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley Heat the oil in a heavy medium-sized saucepan and add the oatmeal. Stir constantly over high heat for about 3 minutes to toast. Add the onion, and sauté about 3 minutes until the onion is soft. Add the mushrooms and cook five minutes more. Add the broth, pepper and salt, if using. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer for about 40 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep the oats from sticking. Remove pilaf from heat and stir in the parsley. Adjust salt and pepper and serve. Carol Peterson said, “We liked this unusual dish a lot. It has the nuttiness of wild rice pilaf, but is less expensive to make, and is much more healthful. The recipe offers a lot of room for improvisation.” 199 PASTA, RICE & GRAINS Where Foodwinos go for help: How long can that bottle of ketchup stay in your fridge before it goes bad? I’m thinking 5 or 10 years, but for an expert opinion, go to www.stilltasty.com. This site lists all kind of foods and how to keep them fresh longer, as well as when to get rid of them. If you have a question, click on the particular picture, and a whole list of stuff appears…WHAT A GREAT SITE!!!!!!!!!!!!! -Greg Walker Did I tell you about this book I just found? It’s pretty fabulous. I am flooded with ideas. Take a simple ratio for, say, a piecrust or bread, and WoW the book opens up so many ideas. I wish I had this book 40 years ago when I first really got serious about cooking. I’m going to buy it for all of my good cooking friends. The book is Ratio: The Simple Codes Behind the Craft by Michael Ruhlman.-Terry Pogue Need a holiday cake recipe fast? Try www.northpole.com/Kitchen/ Cookbook/cat0002.html.-Blake I recommend the Cook’s Thesaurus: www.foodsubs.com. The great strength of this extensive food dictionary is that everything is illustrated with color photographs. You can actually see the difference between Bhutanese red rice and Himalayan red rice. The site also goes to great pains to note and expound upon equivalent terms.-Terry Pogue Look at this great Chef and Restaurant Database, www.chefdb.com: It’s dedicated to “documenting the careers of chefs and restaurateurs from restaurants around the world.” Modeled on IMDb.com, the Internet movie database, ChefDb allows you to search “places” to see who has worked in a given restaurant, or “people” to see the career path of a given chef or restaurateur. For example, the entry on New York’s Bouley restaurant says that from 1993 to 1996, Cyril Renaud was chef de cuisine; click on Renaud’s name to learn that he is now chef-owner of Bar Breton and Fleur de Sel. The site is a valuable resource!-Terry Pogue 200 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES EASY CROCKPOT CURRY This versatile recipe was submitted by Maggie Johnson. “I got the original recipe from a friend at the library in Kansas City who used to live in South Africa. She said they loved curries there. Even though I was 39 years old, I’d never had curry before; so she gave me this easy recipe and some mild curry powder. I fell in love with it!” 1 pound sirloin steak or lamb, cubed 1-inch thick 2 medium onions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon curry powder, or more if desired 1 28-ounce can chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon vinegar 2 teaspoons sugar 2 cups chicken stock ½ cup sultanas 3 tablespoons oil 2 whole bay leaves Fry sliced onion in oil until golden. Add curry powder and mix quickly. Gradually add the chicken stock, stirring until smooth. Add vinegar, sugar, sultanas, and canned tomatoes. Brown the beef in a separate pan. Put everything in slow cooker and cook, low setting, 8 hours. Serve with rice. Tester Wendy Hunt said, “What’s not to like? And because people can choose between lamb or beef, it is versatile. If you and your guests like curry, add more than 1 tablespoon.” Do illiterate people not receive the full benefit of alphabet soup? Posted by Greg Walker 202 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES SLOW COOKER BEEF STEW “This is my standby slow cooker recipe,” says Maggie Johnson. “It’s easy because the meat doesn’t need to be browned. I have tried it both ways (browning the meat and not browning), and both were great. This is nice to come home to on a winter night.” Serves 6 to 8 ¼ cup tapioca 1 can tomato soup 1 can water 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 2 bay leaves 1 beef bouillon cube or beef stock Salt and pepper 4 carrots 4 potatoes 2 stalks celery 2 onions 2 pounds beef Mix tapioca, tomato soup, water, Worcestershire sauce, bay leaves, bouillon cube or stock, salt and pepper in slow cooker. Cut vegetables and beef into bite-size pieces, and mix with sauce in slow cooker. Cook 8 hours on low. Notes: This recipe was tested in one of the newer, hotter slow cookers. If you have an older one, the cooking time will probably need to be increased. Our tester, Wendy Hunt, made two batches of this stew for her store and quickly sold out of both of them. 203 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES CHICKEN WITH MUSHROOMS AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES This recipe was nominated by Lyn Belisle. “Since we’re talking slow cookers, here’s a recipe I made it last week, and it was very good and very easy. It’s one of those that’s been in my files for a while, and I finally got around to trying it— will definitely make it again soon. I made it with my own sun-dried tomatoes.” Serves 4 1 3-ounce package sun-dried tomatoes (if oil-packed, drain the oil and blot in paper towels) 4 boneless skinless chicken breasts ¼ cup chicken broth ¼ cup fresh basil leaves 3 cups sliced mushrooms 1 onion, chopped 1 2-ounce can sliced black olives, drained 2 tablespoons capers (optional) Slice tomatoes into julienne strips. Combine with remaining ingredients in a 3 to 4 quart slow cooker. Cover slow cooker, and cook on low for 8 to 9 hours, or until chicken is thoroughly cooked and no longer pink in center. Serve with hot cooked polenta or rice. Notes: This recipe was tested in one of the newer, hotter slow cookers. If you have an older one, the cooking time will probably need to be increased. Wendy Hunt said that the recipe doubled well, but she did cook it in two cookers. Wendy used oil packed tomatoes, which worked fine. 204 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES SLOW COOKER TAMALE PIE Mary Curry nominated this recipe by Terry Pogue. Serves 8 1 pound ground beef 1 medium onion, roughly chopped 1 large can pinto beans 1 can tomatoes (Terry likes Rotel brand) 4 tablespoons chili powder, or to taste 3 tablespoons cumin, or to taste 1 teaspoon salt 1 can black olives, drained and coarsely chopped ½ fresh tomato, chopped ¾ cup corn meal 2 large eggs, beaten 1¼ cups whole milk 1½ cups cheddar or Monterey Jack cheese Coat the slow cooker with nonstick cooking spray. Heat a medium-sized nonstick skillet over medium heat. Cook beef and onions until the meat is no longer pink and the onion is limp, using a wooden spoon to break up the meat. Add chili powder and cumin and cook for a minute. Add the beans, tomatoes, and olives. Cook for 1 minute and then transfer the mixture to the slow cooker. In a large bowl, whisk together the cornmeal, eggs, and milk until smooth. Pour into the cooker and stir to combine all the ingredients. Cover and cook on high for 3 to 4 hours. Sprinkle the cheese over the top, drizzle with the oil, cover, and cook 10 minutes more to melt the cheese. Serve directly from the crock. Wendy Hunt substituted navy beans for pintos. “For people who really like a kick, the chili powder could be doubled. I made this again for a Super Bowl catering gig and added more chili powder.” 205 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES GREEN CHILI STEW Another easy and delicious entry from Terry Pogue. Serves 8 4 pounds pork butt 1 jar of your favorite green salsa 3 poblano chilis, roasted, seeded, peeled, and chopped 2 tomatoes, roasted, seeded, and chopped 2 cooked potatoes, cut into chunks ½ cup beef broth, less or more as needed Place the pork butt into the slow cooker at night before you go to bed. Cook on low for 10 hours. Remove from pot, pull apart the pork, and discard excess fat. Place the meat back into the slow cooker and add one large jar of green salsa, the chili peppers, roasted tomatoes and a splash of beef stock. Turn the cooker on low and cook for up to another two hours to blend flavors. About an hour before serving, add the cooked potatoes. Chris Babcock said: “I used a smaller cut of meat the second time as we don’t need as much, and I dumped the salsa right in with the pork in its first cooking. You can also use raw potatoes; just put them in with the tomatoes to cook longer. This was excellent! We ate half of it straight, with a little cheese sprinkled on top. The rest I drained, and used the meat in enchiladas.” Swiss cheese could use a little work. It’s not even watertight! ~Adam Hindman Posted by Terry Pogue 206 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES HUNGARIAN BARLEY STEW Maggie Johnson gave us this one: “Here’s an easy slow cooker recipe I’d like to offer, even if it isn’t as sophisticated as our usual Foodwine recipes!” Serves 4 1½ pounds beef stew meat, in ½-inch cubes 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 cup onions, chopped 1 28-ounce can tomatoes, diced or chopped 3 cups water and 3 bouillon cubes (or 3 cups beef stock) 2 ⁄3 cup barley 1 tablespoon paprika ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon caraway seeds Sour cream Brown the beef in the oil in a sauté pan. Drain extra oil. Put the beef and all ingredients in a slow cooker. Stir together. Cook on low 10 hours or so. Serve with sour cream and a Hungarian salad of cucumbers, green peppers, and lettuce with a vinegar-based dressing. Wendy Hunt noted, “The new slow cookers are hotter than the old ones. I cooked this on low but timed for 8 hours. Then left for an additional hour, and it was nicely done.” Wendy’s husband and friends loved this stew. Never eat anything at one sitting that you can’t lift. ~Miss Piggy Posted by Ellen in Dallas 207 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES MEDITERRANEAN ROAST TURKEY BREAST Gretl Collins enthusiastically nominated this recipe, originally posted by Jeanie, who spotted it in Cooking Light magazine. Serves 4 2 cups chopped onion ½ cup pitted kalamata olives ½ cup oil-packed sun dried tomatoes, julienne-cut and drained 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1½ teaspoons minced garlic 1 teaspoon Greek seasoning ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 1 4-pound boneless turkey breast ½ cup chicken broth, divided 3 tablespoons all purpose flour Combine first nine ingredients in slow cooker. Add ¼ cup broth, and cook on low for 7 hours. Whisk the other ¼ cup broth with flour, add to slow cooker, and cook for an additional 30 minutes. Remove the meat and olives to a platter to keep warm, strain the broth, make a roux (2 tablespoons flour with one tablespoon butter) in a pan on the stovetop, and add the hot liquid from the slow cooker to it, whisking until smooth for a nice gravy. Gretl Collins re-testing this recipe. “Instead of using prepared Greek seasoning, I used a generous pinch each of dried rosemary, oregano, thyme, and marjoram. I use a bone-in breast of turkey with skin on, and removed both the skin and bones before serving. “As a side for serving, I cooked pasta, and tossed it with fresh tomatoes (seeds removed and diced) and pesto, with some basil leaves for garnish.” 208 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES BALSAMIC PORK AND CRANBERRY ROAST Tina Vierra found this easy, 4-ingredient recipe in a supermarket flyer, and it has become a perennial List favorite. The gravy it makes is very tangy from the cranberries, and rich from the pork fat. 5 pound pork roast, butt or shoulder, frozen 1 ⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 1 bag whole frozen cranberries Place the frozen pork roast into your slow cooker, pour in 1⁄3 cup of good balsamic vinegar, grind a generous amount of fresh black pepper, and dump in the bag of cranberries. Set your slow cooker on low, all day, and leave it. When you are ready for dinner, remove the pork and place it on a platter, discarding any excess fat. Strain the juices from the slow cooker into a saucepan, pressing to get all of the juice from the cranberries. Add a few tablespoons flour, salt and pepper to taste, and bring to a boil. Simmer for a few minutes until it thickens into a gravy. Serve with mashed potatoes, and a winter salad with cranberries and nuts in it. Terry Pogue adds a little veal stock or chicken stock to enrich her gravy and tone down the tangy cranberry flavor. “I made a roux and cooked it until it became a very light peanut butter color, then added some veal stock. Then I put the cranberries and pork jus into my chinois [a fine-mesh, cone-shaped chef’s sieve]. I added that to the veal sauce. This seemed to tame the tartness. Cook it a bit, seasoned, and back into the chinois. Silky smooth and delicious. I sliced the pork tenderloin into pieces about ½ inch thick and put a bit of sauce over all, and then garnished with some of the whole berries. Wonderful and easy. Pretty platter too.” 209 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES OLD SOUTH PULLED PORK ON A BUN Sandra Beattie found this in Judith Finlayson’s 150 Slow Cooker Recipes, though Foodwinos, including Gretl Collins who nominated it for this cookbook, have fine-tuned the original. Gretl said when she makes this recipe, “I don’t use the buns—just serve on heated plates with potatoes and vegetables. For a potluck, you could take it in the slow cooker and serve it on-site. And a 2.5-pound, boneless pork loin works quite nicely. “I also changed it to 4 cloves garlic, added 2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard, and 1 ounce of bourbon. I used a whole bottle of chili sauce, because it was just a little over a cup.” Serves 8 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 2 onions, finely chopped 6 cloves garlic, minced 1 tablespoon chili powder 1 teaspoon cracked black peppercorns 1 cup tomato-based chili sauce ¼ cup packed brown sugar ¼ cup cider vinegar 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce 1 boneless pork roast (about 3 pounds), trimmed of excess fat Kaiser or onion buns, halved and warmed (optional) In a skillet, heat oil over medium heat. Add onions and garlic and cook, stirring, for a few minutes, until fragrant. Add the chili powder and pepper to coat, then stir in the chili sauce, brown sugar, vinegar, and Worcestershire sauce. Stir to combine and bring to a boil. Remove from heat. Place pork in slow cooker and pour in sauce. Cover and cook on low for about 10 to 12 hours or on high for 6 hours, until pork is falling apart. 210 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES Transfer pork to a cutting board and pull the meat apart in shreds, using two forks, and removing any excess fat. Return to sauce and keep warm. When ready to serve, spoon shredded pork and sauce over warm buns. Sandra’s note: “The chili sauce I use is an Extra Spicy one from Bonnie Stern, noted Canadian chef and teacher. I like the idea of the bourbon; I might try it with Irish whiskey instead.” Tester Lyn Belisle likes a tangy sauce and would add more vinegar. “This is a good basic pulled pork recipe and a keeper! When my husband and I had a busy week coming up, we tossed this into the slow cooker on Saturday morning, shredded it and added the sauce on Sunday, and had pulled pork sandwiches the rest of the week!” Sadder than destitution, sadder than a beggar is the man who eats alone in public. Nothing more contradicts the laws of man or beast, for animals always do each other the honor of sharing or disputing each other’s food. ~Jean Baudrillard Posted by Tina V. 211 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES POTATO LEEK SOUP WITH HAM Carol Peterson gave us this winner. Yields 4 quarts 3 14-ounce cans chicken broth 8 large potatoes, peeled and cubed 3 leeks, white and light green part only, chopped 2 large carrots, peeled and cubed 3 cups chopped ham 5 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon parsley flakes ½ teaspoon pepper 12 ounces evaporated milk Shredded cheddar cheese, if desired Chopped chives for garnish Put everything but milk, cheese, and chives in a 4.5-quart slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 10 to 12 hours (or high for 7 to 8 hours). Add milk during last hour. Serve topped with shredded cheese and chopped chives (optional). The recipe’s use of evaporated milk brought back a family memory for Diane Laux. “My dear old farmer Dad used to reel people in with a joke he told about PET (evaporated) milk. He’d say, ‘You know, I won a jingle-writing contest for PET milk, way back.’ “‘Really,’ the poor unsuspecting person would say. ‘Do you remember how it went?’ they’d ask. “Scratching his chin, he’d ponder a moment and then say, ‘Hmmm, let me see. Yes, that’s it: [Note: off-color joke coming!] No tits to pull, no shit to pitch; just poke two holes in the sonofabitch.’ One more thing—when asked what his favorite food was, my dad would say ‘soup’ so I always think of him when I make soup. He’d have loved this one.” 212 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES SWEET & SOUR CHICKEN FOR THE SLOW COOKER Mary Curry nominated this recipe from Phyllis Keating. 5 green onions, white parts only, sliced 1 red sweet pepper, seeded and cut in ½-inch chunks 2 large carrots, sliced on the diagonal 3 cloves garlic, sliced 2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 8 chicken thighs, bone-in, skin-on Salt and pepper (a three-pepper lemon blend was wonderful in this dish) 1 cup orange juice (freshly squeezed if possible) ½ cup liquid honey ½ cup soy sauce 3 tablespoons tomato paste 1 small tin pineapple tidbits 3 tablespoons cornstarch Place onions, pepper chunks, carrots and garlic in the slow cooker. In a skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat. Sprinkle chicken with salt and pepper and brown in batches. Transfer to slow cooker. Drain off any fat in skillet. Whisk together orange juice, honey, soy sauce, tomato paste, and grated ginger. Add to skillet; mix and cook until fragrant, a minute or two. Pour into slow cooker. Cover and cook on low for 4 hours. Check chicken for doneness. Half an hour minutes before serving, whisk cornstarch with ¼ cup warm water. Stir into the slow cooker along with the drained pineapple; cook on high for another 30 minutes. Serve with jasmine or basmati rice. Testers report this dish is absolutely delicious, and one noted it tasted like something she’d get in a good Chinese restaurant. However, cooking times varied widely depending on size and age of the slow cooker (newer ones are hotter). Cooking time could take up to eight hours with a cooler slow cooker. 213 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES SLOW-COOKER CHOUCROUTE Gretl Collins wanted us to include this recipe from Terry Pogue, who serves it on Superbowl Sunday at her house. Serves up to 12 people 1 large onion, peeled (root end left intact) and quartered 4 whole cloves 8 ounces thick-sliced smoked or pepper bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces 2 pounds sauerkraut, rinsed and drained ½ garlic head (about 6 cloves), chopped 1 finely chopped carrot 4 sprigs fresh thyme 4 sprigs fresh parsley 2 bay leaves 8 to 10 juniper berries 2 10-ounce inch-thick smoked pork chops 1 pound kielbasa, cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces 2 Fuji or other baking apples, cored and cut into large chunks 1 pound small red-skinned potatoes, scrubbed and parcooked 1½ cups dry white wine ¼ cup gin Pumpernickel rye bread for serving Mustards for serving Horseradish for serving Cornichons for serving Stud each onion quarter with a clove. Layer bacon, sauerkraut, garlic, onion quarters, carrot, herb sprigs, bay leaves, juniper, pork chops, kielbasa, apples, and potatoes in the slow cooker in the order listed; pour in wine and gin top. Cover the cooker and set it on low. Cook until the pork is falling off the bones and the potatoes are fork-tender, at least 6 and up to 8 hours. 214 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES Arrange meats, potatoes, apples, onions, garlic, and sauerkraut on a large platter. Serve with pumpernickel rye, mustards, cornichons, and horseradish. Gretl and Tester Marie Pinho use 1½ pounds of pork loin, cut into cubes, or regular pork chops, when they cannot find smoked ones. Cooks can also just slice the onions and place them as the bottom layer in the pot, scattering the cloves into the mix. The potatoes can be cooked and served separately. Terry has also added some duck to the dish, which her husband thought was a splendid idea. If you accept a dinner invitation, you have a moral obligation to be amusing. Terry Pogue This does not mean dancing on the table with a sausage between your teeth. Addendum posted by Tom McRae, Brisbane, Australia 215 SLOW COOKER & CASSEROLE RECIPES THE PATS’ OVERNIGHT CASSEROLE Contributed by Pat Belanger from her friend Pat Parker’s recipe. The combination of ingredients distinguishes it from typical noodle casseroles. Serves 12 2 cups or more cooked diced turkey, chicken, tuna, shrimp or crab 1¾ cups baby shell pasta, uncooked 2 tins cream of mushroom soup 2 cups milk ½ pound grated sharp Cheddar cheese 1 tin water chestnuts, drained and sliced ½ green pepper, diced 1 small jar of pimientos 1 small onion, diced, or 1 tablespoon dried minced onion 1 teaspoon salt Pepper to taste Combine all ingredients and put into a 9-by-13-inch pan. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Bake at 350°F for 1¼ hours. Tester Joanne Schweik made this with tuna and took it to a meeting, where it was a huge hit. That all-softening, overpowering knell, the tocsin of the soul— the dinner bell. ~Lord Byron, Don Juan Posted by Janet Morrissey, a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 216 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES AWESOME ASPARAGUS Lyn Belisle nominated this recipe by Terry Pogue, who developed it after watching a cooking show in which expatriate Australian chefs Curtis Stone and Ben O’Donoghue had gone home to Australia for a visit. The unique sauce looks like a cream sauce or hollandaise, but it’s just cheese and lemon and oil. The poached egg on top of each serving gives the same stunning showcase presentation as Eggs Benedict. Serves 4 4 bundles fresh asparagus, trimmed and tied (6 to 8 spears each) 1 cup Pecorino cheese, grated (or substitute fresh Parmesan) 1 lemon, juiced Extra virgin olive oil Freshly ground black pepper 4 large eggs, poached Fresh mint, chopped, for garnish Make the sauce: Whisk the lemon juice into the grated cheese and drizzle in enough olive oil to make a creamy dressing; set aside. Poach four eggs. Meanwhile, cook the asparagus bundles in boiling salted water until just tender (3 to 4 minutes). Remove the string tie and place an asparagus bundle on each of 4 plates. Drizzle with the cheese sauce. Place a poached egg on top of each asparagus bundle. Sprinkle with fresh chopped mint, and drizzle the plate with some additional olive oil and freshly cracked black pepper. Serve immediately. Janet Morrissey served this recipe to her husband and friends, who loved the flavors and beautiful presentation. “My husband preferred not to have the poached egg, and luckily, this is really good without the egg as well. Instead of tying the asparagus bundles with string, try using chives as ties. It makes a really pretty presentation.” 218 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES GRILLED BABY ARTICHOKES Mary Curry nominated this recipe from Tina Vierra, who says she first had artichokes this way at the Rutherford Grill restaurant in the Napa Valley. Tina notes: “I adore baby artichokes. Stripped and steamed, the hearts are wonderful for light pasta dishes. But this is my favorite way to eat them.” Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer or side dish 4 small or baby artichokes, stems trimmed ¼ cup Herbes de Provence, or more as needed 1 tablespoon sea salt or kosher salt ½ tablespoon freshly ground black, or mixed black and pink pepper Extra virgin olive oil 1 lemon, cut into wedges for squeezing Steam or boil the artichokes until al dente tender, cool them, then cut them in half. Remove the purple heart material. This can be done several hours or a day in advance. Mix the salt, pepper, and herbs in a shallow, wide-bottom dish. Dip the cut sides of the artichokes into olive oil, and then the herb mixture, and grill the halves on an outdoor grill, or a cast iron pan on the stovetop, until warmed through and brown on the herbed side. Remove from the grill, squeeze the juice of a fresh lemon over them, and serve. You can steam the artichokes in the microwave instead of boiling them: Put them in a covered glass casserole dish with a small amount of water and microwave them for several minutes, testing for doneness by pulling on a leaf. This method preserves more of the artichoke flavor. The Rutherford Grill served their artichokes as a bar appetizer with a delicious mustard aioli. 219 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES BABY SQUASH ROMANO Tom McRae, a Scottish expatriate living in Brisbane, Australia, is constantly creative with weeknight meals for himself and wife Toni. When he posted this recipe, he said with his usual humor, “Okay, so the Romano name has been taken for chicken. I hereby claim it for this dish I created on Thursday.” Serves 2 8 yellow baby squash, topped, tail stems cut off, and quartered Minced garlic (or reconstituted granules) to taste 1 tablespoon tomato paste A ‘slurp’ of tomato ketchup Pinch of mixed herbs (your choice) 2 tablespoons grated Romano cheese ¼ cup chicken stock Salt and black pepper Dash of Maggi seasoning 1 tablespoon olive oil Heat oil over medium heat and toss in squash and garlic. Stir fry for 3 minutes. Mix in tomato paste and ketchup, stir well, and lower the heat. Add Maggi seasoning and stir to mix. Add stock and herbs; bring to simmer, then add cheese and stir in well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes until squash is tender but still crisp. Janet Morrissey tested this recipe using baby squash from her local farmer’s market. “Nice flavors and texture. It was quick and easy and I will be making it again,” she said. Morrissey added blossoms from the baby squash about 5 minutes before the dish was done, but said she would probably use them as garnish next time because they lost too much flavor in the pot. Maggi seasoning (a Nestlé product) is similar to bouillon cubes, and Maggi sauce is a vegetable protein-based sauce similar to soy sauce. 220 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES BOB’S BAKED BEANS Foodwino Maryellen Casey took one of Bob Pastorio’s instructional posts and wrote it up as a recipe that every picnic-going cook needs to have. Serves 8 2 cans white beans 2 cans kidney beans 1 can black beans 1 can chick peas ½ cup brown sugar 2 tablespoons apple juice concentrate 16 ounces vinaigrette salad dressing 8 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled ¼ cup brown sugar Bob’s instructions: Take a square baking dish, or disposable aluminum one for summer outdoor stuff. Imagine you’re looking down on a target. Black beans in the center. A ring of navy beans around that; limas around that; a ring of red kidney beans; garbanzos. Pan is now full. Puree any leftover beans and add to dressing. Dress with a vinaigrette (about 3 or 4 cups; Maryellen adds apple juice and dark brown sugar) and bake (350°F), covered, until bubbling, an hour or so. Uncover, top with a mixture of crumbled bacon and light brown sugar. Bake until sugar melts, maybe 15 minutes. Serve. Maryellen likes to mix all of her beans in a friendly jumble. Terry Pogue says this recipe tastes wonderful, and is easy and useful for any cook. “You can choose any beans you like for this; there are so many options.” 221 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES BROCCOLI TREES WITH PARMESAN AND LEMON Sheila Foster nominated this side dish recipe from Terry Pogue. Serves 4 3 heads broccoli (about 3 pounds) 3 tablespoons olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper 1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Juice of 1 lemon Preheat the oven to 400°F. Trim about 1 inch off the ends of the broccoli stalks and cut the broccoli lengthwise into uniform spears. Arrange the broccoli on a nonstick cookie sheet, drizzle with some olive oil, and season with a little bit of salt and a generous amount of freshly ground black pepper. Toss to coat evenly. Transfer to the oven and roast for 10 minutes. Remove the broccoli from the oven, sprinkle the cheese evenly over the top, and bake until the cheese melts and forms a crisp shell over the broccoli, about 10 minutes. Lift the broccoli out onto a platter with a spatula, and drizzle with fresh lemon. Sheila’s notes: “I used four good sized ‘trees’ of broccoli—not the entire amount called for in the recipe. Enough olive oil to coat the broccoli, enough Parmigiano-Reggiano to really coat the broccoli, and one lemon. If you like your broccoli a bit softer, cook 10 minutes before adding the cheese.” Gretl Collins reported that her cheesy error turned into success: “The cheese I thought to be Parmesan turned out to be Locatelli Romano. This makes no difference to the success of the recipe. I used a Microplane grater to make fine clouds of cheese, which melted very nicely to the broccoli.” 222 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES CURRIED CAULIFLOWER WITH CILANTRO Terry Pogue says of her recipe, “I love this at room temperature, but it’s good right from the oven also.” Serves 6 as a side dish 12 cups cauliflower florets 1 large onion, peeled and quartered 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds ¾ cup olive oil ½ cup red wine vinegar 3½ teaspoons curry powder 1 tablespoon Hungarian hot paprika 1¾ teaspoons salt ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro Preheat oven to 450°F. Place cauliflower florets in large, low-sided roasting pan. Pull apart onion quarters into separate layers; add to cauliflower. Stir coriander seeds and cumin seeds in small skillet over medium heat until slightly darkened, about 5 minutes. Crush coarsely in a mortar with pestle, and place the seeds in medium bowl. Whisk in oil, vinegar, curry powder, paprika, and salt. Pour dressing over vegetables; toss to coat. Spread vegetables in single layer. Sprinkle with pepper and roast until tender, stirring occasionally, about 35 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, sprinkled with fresh cilantro. Maggie Johnson served this with her Easy Crock Pot Curry (page 205), made using lamb. She placed the bright red curry in a small bowl in the middle of a large platter, then put a layer of baby spinach around the bowl, and put the hot cauliflower on the spinach. “It was such a lovely dish, I had to take a picture. The curry bursts in your mouth; then you get the mellow cauliflower.” 223 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES GREEN LENTILS WITH LEMON SLICES Doreen gave us this delicious Madhur Jaffrey recipe. Serves 4 1 cup green lentils (about 6 ounces) ¾ teaspoon coarse salt 3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro 1 lemon, peeled, pith removed, and thinly sliced crosswise 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ teaspoon brown mustard seeds 2 hot dried red chili peppers 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed and peeled Bring lentils and 3 cups water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed pan. Cook, partially covered, until very tender, 40 to 45 minutes. Stir in salt and cilantro; remove from heat. Add 8 lemon slices; stir to combine. Transfer to a serving bowl; set aside. Heat oil in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat; add mustard seeds. After a few seconds, seeds should begin to pop; add peppers. When peppers have darkened, add garlic; stir to combine. Top lentils with mustard seed mixture. Terry Pogue makes this dish often in winter. “This is good as part of an Indian dinner, or as the main dish with a side salad and bread for a vegetarian option.” Can I have another plate please Mum? Someone threw up on this one! ~Calvin and Hobbes Posted by Rob Wells 224 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES GRILLED CHIPOTLE BRANDY PORTABELLAS =Mark is our resident Chilehead and loves a spicy recipe like this one. Cotija cheese can be found in Mexican markets and is a crumbly, salty cheese. Serves 10 to 20 for appetizers 20 portabella mushroom caps 1 cup olive oil ½ cup wine vinegar 2 ounces cotija cheese, grated or crumbled (can substitute Romano) 1 clove fresh garlic 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 teaspoon ground oregano ½ teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon ground coriander 1 14-ounce can chipotles in adobo sauce 1 ⁄3 cup brandy Salt to taste Remove stems from portabellas. Blend remaining ingredients in a food processor until smooth. Brush mushrooms with marinade about 10 minutes before cooking. Grill over medium heat, flipping occasionally and basting with marinade. Portabellas are done when they start bubbling with the gill sides up. Slice into quarters and serve with toothpicks. Great picnic side dish. =Mark’s note: These measurements are for Chileheads. You might want to add the chipotles in smaller increments to achieve your desired level of heat. Tester Janet Morrissey, her husband and four friends loved these so much, they polished off every one. “I used the suggested substitute of Romano cheese since I could not locate cotija. I wasn’t at all sure about the brandy, but it added a really good depth of flavor without a boozy taste. This would be a great side to any grilled meal, and I will be making this often.” 225 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES ITALIAN GREEN BEANS WITH TOMATOES Beatrice Powell nominated this recipe from Terry Pogue. “I’ve made it again and again, and even freeze small batches for my son who absolutely loves them. They freeze really well.” Serves 4 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 medium onion, halved and thinly sliced ½ teaspoons dried oregano 1 14.5-ounce can whole peeled tomatoes in puree 4 handfuls fresh green beans (about 1½ pounds) Coarse salt Freshly ground black pepper In a large skillet with a tight fitting lid, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add onion and oregano; cook, stirring often, until lightly browned (2 to 3 minutes). Breaking up tomatoes with a spoon or your fingers, add them and their puree, and stir to combine. Add green beans, salt and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium low, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, until green beans are soft and onions caramelized, about 45 minutes. Tester Beverly Bradley used a can of petite diced tomatoes and found they worked perfectly in place of the whole tomatoes. “I’ve only done this with fresh green beans, but someday I mean to try it using canned green beans, just to see if the tomato can overcome that metallic taste that canned beans sometimes have. If so, this would be a very handy from-the-pantry type of recipe. Back when I was a mother of toddlers, I was very interested in those!” 226 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES ORANGE ASPARAGUS WITH TOASTED WALNUTS Rosebud gave us this dish. “I’m not sure where I found this recipe, but it is really light and lovely, and goes particularly well with chicken or fish dishes.” Serves 4 1 large orange 1 pound fresh asparagus spears ¼ cup mild olive oil Salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts, toasted Grate peel and squeeze juice from the orange; set peel aside. Pour juice into small saucepan and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 10 minutes, or until juice is reduced by half. While juice is reducing, blanch asparagus in lightly salted boiling water; drain. Add oil to orange juice; beat with wire whisk until well blended. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Arrange asparagus on serving platter; drizzle with orange juice mixture. Sprinkle with orange peel and walnuts. Terry Pogue reported, “I have made this recipe twice – once following the directions exactly, and then using ½ cup of high-pulp orange juice instead of a fresh orange. It was just as good and saved me a little bit of time. This is a wonderful way to make asparagus special, without the calories of hollandaise.” Life itself is the proper binge. ~Julia Child Posted by Rosebud 227 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES ROASTED CAULIFLOWER I =Mark’s easy roasted cauliflower is a list favorite. One of my favorite preparations is cauliflower broken up into florets, drizzled with olive oil, and roasted in a baking pan at 400°F, stirred every 5 minutes or so until it starts to caramelize (about 20 minutes). Joan Waldron adds, “Very flexible recipe—can be adapted to any amount that your pan will hold in one layer. I added leftover broccoli florets. Wonderful! I have a quick-fix version I also use: If I’m going to broil something, I stick the cauliflower in the microwave for a minute, then into the preheating oven, and it finishes in the time it takes for the broiler to heat and broil what I’m fixing.” ROASTED CAULIFLOWER II Jeanie Roberts found this recipe in the Houston Chronicle, from the Herbfarm Restaurant in Seattle, Washington. 1 head cauliflower, about 1½ pounds, separated into florets ½ large red onion, cut into ¼-inch slices 1 large unpeeled apple, cored and coarsely chopped 3 tablespoons olive oil ¾ teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons dried currants 2 teaspoons chopped dried herbs, or ¼ cup fresh herbs Preheat oven to 450°F. Toss cauliflower, onion, apple, olive oil, and salt in baking dish, spread into a single layer. Roast for 20-30 minutes, stirring once or twice, until edges of cauliflower begin to brown. Stir in currants, and bake for another 10 minutes. Sprinkle with herbs, stir, and scoop into a serving dish. Gretl Collins suggests varying the recipe with different herb mixes (e.g. Indian curry, Tex-Mex, Herbes de Provence) or adding finely chopped garlic for the last 10 minutes of cooking. 228 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES POTATO NOISETTE Greg Walker’s recipe has been “a winner every time we’ve served it.” Serves 4 4 large potatoes, peeled and cut into about 6 pieces of equal size 2 tablespoons butter Splash of cooking oil 1 teaspoon dried parsley flakes ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Peel and cut potatoes. Boil in salted water for 5 minutes. Drain, then pat dry with paper towels. Melt butter in a frying pan, add a little splash of oil to keep the butter from turning brown. Add potatoes. Cook on medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes until tender and browned. Sprinkle with parsley, salt and pepper. Tester Sheila Foster thinks fresh parsley might make this dish even better, but made it several times, noting how easy it is, and that her husband and guests always love it. Age is important only if you’re cheese or wine. Posted by Ellen in Dallas 229 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES POTATOES DA DELFINA Another recipe fromTerry Pogue, who likes to make these potatoes in her deepfat fryer when she has it out for other dishes. She makes these potatoes first, and re-uses the oil for later things. Serves 4 1½ pounds (about 16) very small thin-skinned potatoes, preferably Yukon Gold Peanut oil Kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 2 teaspoons grated lemon zest ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup chopped garlic Put the potatoes in cold salted water. Bring to a boil and cook until nicely tender. Drain the potatoes. Refrigerate until cool. Take a potato and press it with your hands to ½ inch thickness, but not so hard it falls apart. You want it in one piece. The idea is to expose some of the flesh and have nice cracks that will crisp up when you fry them. You can do this a couple of hours before you fry them. You need at least ½ inch of oil in a pan on moderately high heat, or a deep fryer. When the oil is hot, put the smashed potatoes into the oil and cook on both sides until crisp and well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Drain and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Combine the parsley and lemon zest in a bowl and mix well. In another pan, heat the olive oil on medium heat, add the garlic, and sauté until lightly browned. Drain and add the garlic to the parsley-lemon mixture. 230 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES When the potatoes are browned and crisp, add them to the garlic mixture and toss gently. Serve immediately. Sheila Foster said, “The flavor of these potatoes was superb. I loved the lemon zest in the condiment. The texture of the potato pieces was really nice.” I never eat anything whose name starts with ‘Turd…’ Posted by =Mark, on the subject of Turducken Kelly in Cleveland, sometimes it’s good to be a vegetarian... He who eats garlic and butter need fear no poison. ~Czech Proverb Posted by Lisa McShine 231 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES REFRIGERATOR DILL PICKLES Maggie Johnson gave us this easy recipe. “When the cucumbers start coming in from gardens, I get a lot of requests for this recipe. They come out somewhat like Claussen’s brand of pickles, but much fresher.” 6 cups water 2 cups vinegar ¼ cup kosher salt Fresh dill sprigs or dried dill seeds 1 onion 6 cucumbers Garlic cloves Put water, vinegar and salt into a pan and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally. Allow to cool to room temperature. Slice the cucumbers any way you wish; Maggie has done chunks and lengthwise slices. Slice the onion into thin strips. Put one teaspoon dill seeds or one sprig of fresh dill in the bottom of each container (Maggie uses tall deli containers). Pack with onions and cucumbers. Put a clove of garlic and 1 more teaspoon dill seeds (or one sprig of fresh dill) on top. If you really like garlic pickles, put a clove on the bottom as well. Pour vinegar solution over the top. Let them sit on counter for a few hours, then refrigerate. The pickles will be ready to eat in four days and will keep for a year in the refrigerator. You can use small whole cucumbers if you wish. Maggies’s notes: “I often double the recipe for the brine mixture because it’s always a guess as to how many containers of pickles I will have. The extra brine will keep until the next time you pick your cucumbers.” Tester Beatrice Powell reported: “This was my first attempt at pickling anything and it was so easy! For my first batch I followed the recipe exactly; the next two batches I made, I experimented with crushed chilies, more garlic, mustard seed, whole dill seed...they kept getting better and better.” 232 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES SWEET FREEZER PICKLES Another pickle reciple from Maggie Johnson. “My spouse and I can easily finish a container in one sitting—the hard part is waiting for it to thaw!” 4 cups sugar 2 cups vinegar 7 cups cucumbers, sliced ¼” thick 1 bell pepper, red or green, sliced thin 1 cup sliced onion 1½ tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon celery salt 2 tablespoons celery seed Put the sugar and the vinegar into a saucepan and stir while bringing to a boil. Remove from heat to cool. Put the sliced cucumbers, pepper, and onion into a bowl; add the salt, celery salt, and celery seed. Pour the vinegar mixture over the vegetables and mix. Place in small containers (such as 2-cup plastic deli or freezer containers) and freeze. Keep in the freezer about a week, and then thaw to serve. Tester Helen Rundell said this may sound like a weird idea, but it really works. The pickles were tasty, and still fresh in her refrigerator two weeks after removal from the freezer. “I added a serrano pepper to kick it up a notch.” Life is like a mustard burp, momentarily tangy, then gone… Posted by Mary in MO 233 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES RUSTIC HERBED TOMATO TART WITH PARMESAN CRUST Doreen loved this recipe by Robyn, who provided detailed notes. Serves 8 Pastry: 1½ cups all purpose flour ½ cup unsalted cold butter, cut into 5 pieces ½ teaspoon salt ½ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese Zest from ½ lemon ¼ cup ice water Filling: 1½ to 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon finely chopped Italian parsley 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 6 to 8 ripe plum tomatoes (about 1¼ pounds), sliced ¼-inch thick 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the flour, butter, salt and Parmesan cheese. Pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal, about 5 to 10 seconds. With the motor running, add the lemon zest and pour the water through the feeder tube in a steady stream. Process 5 to 10 seconds, until the dough begins to bind. Remove the dough and shape it into a disk. If mixing by hand or with a pastry blender, rub the butter with the flour and the salt until it resembles the size of small peas. Add the lemon zest and Parmesan 234 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES cheese and combine. Slowly add the ice water, stirring with a fork until dough starts holding together. Shape the dough into a disk. Use the dough immediately, or wrap in plastic and refrigerate. When ready to use, bring to room temperature, about 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 425°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a baking sheet. Using a pastry brush, paint the pastry with the mustard, leaving a 1- to 1½-inch border all around. Sprinkle the Parmesan cheese evenly over the mustard. In a small bowl, combine the basil, thyme, parsley, garlic, salt and pepper. Arrange half of the tomato slices over the mustard-coated portion of the pastry, and sprinkle the herb mixture over the tomatoes. Cover the herbs with the remaining tomatoes, overlapping the slices if necessary. Fold the pastry edges over the tomatoes to enclose the sides of the tart, creating soft pleats every few inches. Pinch any cracks to seal the pastry and prevent tomato juices from running out during baking. Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes. Using a pastry brush, paint the dough with the egg wash. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until the dough is golden. Remove tart and let cool slightly, about 10 minutes. Slice and serve warm. Robyn adds that a friend varied the filling by layering sliced buffalo mozzarella with green pesto and tomatoes dressed with salt and pepper only. “I think she puts fresh basil leaves on top after cooking for a bit of show. I just love this one; it’s a summer favorite and I could eat it for days on end.” Tester Janet Morrissey reported: “This is good warm or cold, or room temperature on the buffet. I was concerned about excess juices from the tomatoes, but did not have a problem. I used organic plum tomatoes from the farmers’ market and they worked perfectly.” 235 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES SAVORY TOMATO CRUMBLE Kathi Shapiro nominated this recipe from Phyllis in Mississauga, Ontario, Canada, who serves it as a side dish with “almost any grilled fish or pork. It’s wonderful to make ahead and simply pop in the oven the next day.” Serves 6 15 plum tomatoes, cored, seeded, and cut in half lengthwise 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 tablespoons each chopped fresh thyme and rosemary ½ teaspoon each salt and pepper 2 ⁄3 cup fresh bread crumbs 1 ⁄3 cup grated Parmesan cheese ¼ cup all-purpose flour 1 ⁄3 cup butter, melted Place tomatoes, cut sides up and without touching, on a large foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Brush with oil; sprinkle with thyme, rosemary, salt and pepper. Roast in 350°F oven until tops are shriveled and bottoms are browned, about 1½ to 2 hours, depending on your oven (a convection oven takes 1½ hours). Arrange tomatoes, overlapping, in an oval ceramic or glass baking dish. You can make ahead to this point and let cool. If you do, cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours; add 20 minutes to the final baking time. In a bowl, stir together bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese and flour; drizzle with butter and toss until crumbly. Sprinkle over tomatoes. Bake in 400°F oven until golden and bubbly, about 25 minutes. Janet Morrissey made this with crumbs made from regular bread the first time, and used a low-carb bread on her second try, with good results. 236 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES VEGETABLE TIAN Terry Pogue adapted this recipe from Ina Garten (TV’s Barefoot Contessa). Serves 4 to 6 Olive oil 2 large yellow onions, cut in half and sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 pound medium round potatoes, unpeeled (Yukon Gold or Red Bliss) ¾ pounds zucchini 1¼ pounds medium tomatoes 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon black pepper, freshly ground 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (plus an extra sprig) 2 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated For this dish to look its best, choose potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes that are about the same diameter, and slice with a mandoline or Cuisinart slicer. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Brush a 9-by-13-by-2-inch baking dish with olive oil. In a medium sauté pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and cook the onions over medium-low heat for 8 to 10 minutes, until translucent. Add the garlic and cook for another minute. Spread the onion mixture on the bottom of the baking dish. Slice the potatoes, zucchini, and tomatoes ¼ inch thick; layer alternately on top of the onions, fitting them tightly in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, thyme leaves, and thyme sprig and drizzle with 1 more tablespoon of olive oil. Cover the dish with aluminum foil and bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the potatoes are tender. Uncover the dish, remove the thyme sprigs, sprinkle the cheese on top, and bake for another 30 minutes, or until browned. Serve warm. Notes: This dish multiplies very easily; use any size pan and bake for the same amount of time (just be sure you only make one layer). 237 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES WILDLY INAUTHENTIC CRUSTLESS POTATO KNISHES Bob Pastorio told us, “Knishes are traditionally made with a crepe filled with mashed potatoes. This recipe dispenses with the wrapper, and the potatoes form a crust all their own.” Yields about 30 walnut-sized knishes, or ten larger ones 2 large eggs, slightly beaten 2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted 1 teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon black pepper 3 ⁄8 cup matzo meal 3 cups mashed potatoes (about 1½ pounds) 1 medium onion, diced and sautéed (optional) 1 egg yolk, beaten with 1 tablespoon water Oil for baking sheet Heat oven to 400°F. In a large bowl, combine eggs, butter or margarine, salt, pepper, and matzo meal. Stir in mashed potatoes and, optionally, a diced and sautéed onion. Form heaping tablespoons of the dough into walnut-sized balls, or shape ½-cup portions into the traditional square shape. Brush with egg. Place on a well-greased cookie sheet (non-stick is a good idea) and bake for 20 minutes or so, until well browned. Serve warm. I split them horizontally and spread a little mustard around the inside. Notes: This recipe can be easily doubled. You can also substitute up to ¼ of the potatoes with sweet potato for a pleasantly different taste and texture. If you don’t have matzo meal, virtually any cracker meal will work, although the taste and texture will vary. 238 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES Terry Pogue told us, “My husband went back for thirds, even though this is not the kind of thing he usually likes.” Terry did add the sautéed onions and believes they are necessary rather than optional. She baked, peeled, and riced her potatoes, believing they needed to be as dry as possible to keep the final product light. “I made the knishes again, this time for a dinner party. I formed them, covered well, and held them for 6 hours in the fridge. Took them out of the fridge 1 hour before time to bake. Just before baking I brushed them with the egg wash, which is really important so don’t miss this part. The wash helps make the ‘skin’ and provide the shine. They were just as good as the ones I’d done right after mixing. “I still had some of the potato mixture left over, so the next day I formed pancake-type patties and fried them. Served them under a nice green salad. Lovely surprise, and a little warm dish with a crisp green salad is always nice. This is really a very versatile recipe.” It is, of course, entirely possible to cook without using wine. It is also possible to wear suits and dresses made out of gunny sacks, but who wants to? ~Morrison Wood Posted by Terry Pogue 239 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES ROASTED GREEN BEANS WITH BLUE CHEESE Gretl Yeager Collins contributed this family favorite. She has made it with feta cheese in place of blue cheese and “it was just as delicious.” Serves 4 to 6 1 pound green beans, trimmed 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon sea salt, divided Freshly ground black pepper 1 large red bell pepper, cored and seeded 1 Vidalia or other sweet onion, peeled ½ cup walnuts 2 to 3 ounces American blue cheese, preferably Rogue River smoked 2 tablespoons chopped chives Preheat oven to 475°F. Toast the walnuts in a small baking dish, 5 to 10 minutes; make sure they don’t burn. Cool, then coarsely chop and set aside. Wash the green beans and dry well. Place in a large bowl, add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and half of the salt. Season with pepper to taste. Toss to coat well. Spread on a rimmed baking sheet. Cut the red pepper and onion into slices about the same thickness as the green beans. Place in a bowl, add the remaining oil and salt, and season with pepper. Toss to coat well. Spread on a second rimmed baking sheet. Roast the vegetables until they’re soft and starting to caramelize, 15 to 30 minutes, stirring and turning every 5 minutes to cook evenly without burning. Transfer to a shallow serving dish. Sprinkle with the walnuts. Sprinkle with crumbled blue cheese and chives. Serve warm or at room temperature. Maggie Johnson says to be sure to use a sweet onion. “This makes a very colorful side dish with lots of good flavors. It was also very easy.” 240 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES ZUCCHINI WITH GORGONZOLA Mitch liked this dish because while very simple to make, it looks more sophisticated than the typical vegetable side. Serves 6 as an appetizer 3 medium zucchini, sliced ½- to ¾-inch thick 2½ ounces gorgonzola cheese, crumbled ½ cup finely chopped fresh tomato 1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper Salt to taste Using a melon baller, hollow out each slice of zucchini to create a bowl. Lay them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Fill each with about ½ teaspoon of cheese, and top with the finely diced tomato. Give each another good grind of pepper. Bake in a preheated 375°F oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature. Tester Maggie Johnson says this dish is great for anyone on a South Beachtype diet, and also looks great for cocktail parties. Dieting is the triumph of mind over platter. Posted by Greg 241 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES BLACK BEAN QUESADILLAS Tina Vierra nominated this recipe after making the quesadillas at home and on road trips. You can also cook it on a cast iron skillet laid on top of a BBQ grill. Serves 6, or more as appetizers, sliced into wedges 3 tablespoons plus 8 teaspoons vegetable oil 2 poblano chili peppers, seeded and thinly sliced (about 6 cups) 2 ears fresh corn, shaved 3 tablespoons (approximately) water 3 garlic cloves, minced ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 can black beans, rinsed and dried 8 9-inch flour tortillas 1 pound Monterey Jack cheese, grated Fresh salsa Guacamole Sour cream Dry-roast the corn in a skillet on medium heat until brown and fragrant. Pour into a large mixing bowl. Heat 3 tablespoons oil in skillet over medium heat. Add peppers, cover and cook until soft. Addi water by tablespoonfuls if they become too dark and stir occasionally, about 10 minutes. Uncover. Add garlic; sauté 1 minute. Transfer to mixing bowl. Stir in cilantro. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add black beans and cheese, stir. Heat 2 teaspoons oil on a flat griddle over medium-high heat. Add 1 tortilla to skillet. Top with some of the filling mixture, and salsa if desired. Top with a second tortilla; lightly brush with oil. Cook until bottom is golden brown, about 3 minutes. Turn quesadilla over. Cook until bottom is golden brown and cheese melts, about 3 minutes. 242 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES Transfer to cutting board. Cut each quesadilla into 6 wedges. Transfer to platter. Repeat with remaining oil, tortillas, filling mixture, and salsa. Serve hot with salsa, sour cream and guacamole on the side. Terry Pogue said, “This is a good all-round quick lunch sandwich, one I’ll do over and over. The nice thing about this, along with the flavor, is that I almost always have the ingredients in the house so it’s really convenient.” The locals have never bothered to describe the taste and construction of their wines. However, after having several glasses they become very eloquent in describing the way it makes them feel. ~Australian Wine Browser Posted by Rob Wells 243 VEGETABLES & SIDE DISHES HOT BANDANAS Terry Pogue named this dish for the blue and red kerchiefs that she wraps around the foil-wrapped sandwiches when they come out of the oven. Serves 10 7 ounces kalamata other good olives, sliced 1½ cups diced and peeled white onion 1 pound ripe beefsteak tomatoes, chopped ½ pound mozzarella cheese, diced (about 1½ cups) 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 2 cloves pressed garlic 2 teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon pepper 2 teaspoons dried basil ¼ cup wine vinegar 1 ⁄3 cup olive oil 10 large hard sandwich rolls 3 tablespoons soft butter 3 fresh basil leaves Mix olives, onion, tomatoes, and cheeses in a large bowl. Place the garlic, salt, pepper, basil, vinegar and oil in a covered jar and shake. Pour the dressing over the vegetables and cheeses; toss gently. Set aside. Cut a shallow plug-hole, 2 inches in diameter, out of the top of each roll; pull out the soft inside. Make sure to leave some bread on the bottom. Melt butter, add the fresh basil leaves and let steep. Brush basil butter on the bottom of each roll; add about 2⁄3 cup of the filling and then replace the plug on the top. Wrap each sandwich in aluminum foil. Refrigerate if not cooking right away and remove an hour before baking. Bake in a 350°F oven for 20 to 25 minutes. Tester Anne Bannon used leftover filling on cooked pasta. 244 SAUCES SAUCES BRINING FOR BEGINNERS One of the best lessons ever posted by the great Bob Pastorio. This is one of those “gotta have faith” pieces. I want you to sink meats, birds, and seafood in salty water so they’ll cook faster, taste better, be more tender and juicy. Yeah, I know. Sounds absurd. But it works, and now it’s all the thing. Time was when there were no refrigerators. Meat spoils quickly. All kinds of meats—four-legged, winged and ones with gills. What to do? Well, there were several choices for storage. Put it under cold water. Store it hanging in a cold root cellar or springhouse. You could hang the meat over a slow, smoky fire. The other major way to store meat was to pickle it; to brine it. Sink it in a flavored brine and in fairly short order, you have a piece of meat that won’t spoil any time soon. We still have some being produced like that nowadays—corned beef, pastrami, many different kinds of hams. Here’s the new-old method, brining the meats, but with some modern changes. The salt and sugar draw moisture out of the meats. Then a kind of balance is struck where no more juices come out of the meat. Then, in a funny reversal, the brine is taken up by the meat, bringing moisture and flavoring into the meat. It makes the meat plumper and juicier. It makes it more forgiving in cooking. It makes your dinner a bit more tender. What’s to not like? We aren’t going to pickle them, just soak them in a light brine solution. Stay with me here. We aren’t making the meats taste salty, just better. And cook more quickly. Poultry, pork, lamb, beef and game meats can all be brined and I guarantee they’ll be tastier, juicier, and more tender than without brining. Brining will also shorten cooking times. Cook as you always do, just check on the progress of the meats a bit earlier and more often than usual until you get the sense of it. And this isn’t just for special occasions. Every time you cook meats, they can benefit from this approach. Discard the brines after using once. 246 SAUCES BASIC MEAT BRINE This much brine will take care of a 3- or 4-pound piece of pork loin, a chicken (or chicken pieces), or a 3- or 4-pound beef, lamb or veal roast. How long to leave the meats in the brine? Depends. For poultry, at least 24 hours. Up to about 36 hours. Roasts benefit from 3 days or more. Since I first started doing this, I’ve evolved my recipe. This is the one I’m working with now. 1 quart water ¼ cup salt 2 tablespoons sugar ½ tablespoon black pepper 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 teaspoons fresh oregano leaves 4 or 5 bay leaves, crumbled 4 cloves garlic, smashed 2 tablespoons vinegar Heat the water and add the remaining ingredients. Bring to a low simmer, stir a few times and remove from the heat. Let cool. That’s the brine. How to use it? One very easy way is a gallon freezer bag. Put the meat in the bag and pour the cooled brine over it. Squeeze out much of the air, put the bag in a container (just in case of leaks), and refrigerate. Variations: The amounts of water, salt and sugar should remain fairly constant, but the other ingredients are variable. For duck, goose and other oily birds, add 2 tablespoons ground ginger, a cup of soy sauce and ¼ cup orange juice concentrate. Stick the duck all over with a fork and brine for 3 or 4 days. Roast in a 400°F oven for about an hour. Chicken pieces benefit from the juice of a lemon and a tablespoon of rubbed sage added to the brine. And don't forget that whole turkey or the venison leg. Got a really big bucket? Enjoy very much. 247 SAUCES BRINED PORK AND VEAL CHOPS These chops will be rosy inside like a good cured ham and very tender. Don’t try to cook the wonderful pink color out, you’ll ruin them. ½ cup brown sugar ¼ cup salt 10 black peppercorns 5 bay leaves 2 tablespoons mixed dried herbs (rosemary, oregano, thyme, and sage) 1 quart hot water 3 quarts ice water 12 chops, 1 inch thick Olive oil or cooking spray Put sugar and salt in a large nonreactive container (plastic, glass, or stainless steel). Add the hot water and stir to dissolve. Add other seasonings and let sit for a few minutes to rehydrate herbs. Stir in the ice water. Submerge the chops in the brine. Cover the container and refrigerate for 24 hours or more. Or use the freezer bag technique. To cook, remove the chops from the brine, pat dry and lightly brush or spray with oil. Grill, broil or pan-fry. Figure 7 to 9 minutes per side. Anybody remotely interesting is mad in one way or another. ~The Seventh Doctor Posted by Janet Morrissey, a.k.a. Mostly Harmless 248 SAUCES FISH FILLETS IN A MAPLE AND DILL BRINE This brine works well on fillets of tuna, salmon, orange roughy and trout. Brining fish is faster than meats. You need real maple syrup for best results. 1 quart water 2¼ cups salt 2 tablespoons maple syrup 1 tablespoon brown sugar 1 bunch fresh dill, coarsely chopped (about 1/ 2 cup) 3 garlic cloves, smashed ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper Fish fillets, about 2 pounds total, center cuts if possible Combine the water, salt, maple syrup, and brown sugar in a large nonreactive container. Stir to dissolve the salt. Add dill, garlic, and pepper. Submerge the fish skin-side-up in the brine. Cover the container and refrigerate for 8 to 10 hours. To cook, remove the fish from the brine and pat dry. Brush or spray with oil. To broil, put the fish on a foil-lined baking sheet, skin side down and broil for about 10 minutes per inch of thickness at the thickest point, or until just cooked through. To grill, put on a sheet of foil directly on the grill rack over medium heat for about 10 minutes per inch of thickness. As one Foodwino put it, “For meats, poultry and fish, this is the Bible on how to prepare them. The basic background and variations are perfect. The deep fried brined turkey has been my favorite. For a lovely light seasoning and moist, moist meat, this is the way to go. I might do beef or pork without brining it first, but I will never again do turkey or chicken without it.” 249 SAUCES DIJON-TARRAGON CREAM SAUCE List member Nick Petti runs the Mendo Bistro in Fort Bragg on the California coast. This talented chef’s crab cakes once won a northern California crab cake competition so many years in a row, that they gave him a lifetime achievement award and asked him to retire the recipe. This is Nick’s sauce, nominated by Bob Coomler for our book. Yields about one cup of sauce 2 shallots, thinly sliced (about one cup) 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard 1 cup white wine ½ bunch tarragon, chopped (about ¼ cup) 2 cups chicken stock 1 cup cream Sweat shallots in small saucepan until translucent. Add mustard and deglaze the pan with white wine. Add tarragon and reduce over medium heat by three quarters. Add chicken stock and reduce by half. Add cream and gently reduce by one half. Can be strained if desired. Goes well with pork or chicken. Tester Stephanie Gerding raved about this sauce. “Loved it! Patrick and I served it with grilled chicken, and did not strain it because we used a mandoline for the shallots, and the thin slices were pretty in the sauce. It would be easy and luxurious for entertaining, though you’ll have to resist licking the plate in front of guests! “As stated, would be good with chicken or pork, but I could also see it on steak or pasta as well. Very versatile!” Worrying is as effective as trying to solve an algebra problem by chewing bubble gum. Posted by Finn 250 SAUCES SAUCES MADE WITH WHIPPED CREAM Tina asked, “Has anyone tried a mustard or horseradish whipped cream on smoked salmon? I’m thinking of smoked salmon on crackers that’s normally topped with créme fraiche, capers, and a sliver of red onion. Would the flavored whipped cream, instead of créme fraiche, be over the top?” And Bob Pastorio replied: “Of course it’s over the top. What could be better?” And then he showed us how. Horseradish whipped cream: How about incorporate the horseradish, capers and onion, very finely minced or even puréed, into the whipped cream? Want to really, really take it over the top? Add a bit of finely minced smoked salmon to the whipped cream and fold in a bit of caviar—both red and black. Gorgonzola (or any blue-veined cheese) dressing for salad: Make whipped cream (a cup of cream whipped to full volume, then put in a sieve over a bowl in the fridge to let whey drip out—couple hours). After draining, put it in a bowl and stir ½ to ¾ cup (or however much suits you) crumbled Gorgonzola into it. Let sit for 12 hours or overnight. Stunning on salads or as a dip for fruit. Salmon whipped cream spread: Whipped cream drained like that with finely minced smoked salmon, a dash of lemon juice, grate of black pepper, and a sprinkle of minced fresh dill is an astonishing spread (ground ginger optional). That technique of whipping the cream and holding it in a sieve or strainer for a while to let any loose liquid drain out means it’ll be simultaneously light and denser than if left un-drained. Incorporating other flavors into it then is easy. I’d run the other ingredients in a processor and fold them in to the whipped cream. Think of other flavors to do that with... Ground or fresh ginger to put on top of, oh, I dunno, pumpkin pie? Cinnamon, clove, allspice, nutmeg on top of hot apple pie. Others...? Pastorio 251 SAUCES LITTLE GIRLIES GREEN SAUCE Terry Pogue gives us this recipe, noting, “I have become so addicted to this sauce. I’ll make a batch and serve it on everything for the rest of the week – grilled chicken, fish, tacos, steak, roast chicken....ANYTHING.” Yields a generous quart of sauce 4 bunches trimmed cilantro, chopped 3 bunches green onions, white part and some green 5 serrano peppers, cored 5 whole avocados, cut in tiny dice 1½ cups water 1½ cups white vinegar Roughly chop cilantro and green onions. Put peppers, water, and vinegar in a blender and blend until minced. Combine with cilantro, green onions and avocados in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Lyn Belisle says you could halve the recipe if you need less sauce. “I liked it—it had a lot of vinegar, which is a great preservative for keeping the avocado fresh. I served it to a group and one person absolutely adored it and immediately asked for the recipe. It would really appeal to cilantro fans. This is kind of a cross between guacamole and green salsa—it’s an interesting combination, and visually very pretty with a good texture. We served it with planked salmon, but I think it would be especially nice on chicken.” I hate people who are not serious about meals. It is so shallow of them. ~Oscar Wilde Posted by Matthew Hill 252 SAUCES PRICE-WAR RED PEPPER SAUCE Matthew Hill gave us this recipe from Gretl Collins for our book, saying he’d used it as a pasta sauce, and for meat and fowl. The sauce keeps in the refrigerator for a good long time, and freezes well. Lots of slivered garlic Tin of anchovies Several roasted red peppers Reconstituted sun-dried tomatoes Sauté garlic in olive oil until light tan, add tin of anchovies (remove anchovies from tin and discard tin) reduce heat and stir till anchovies are melted. Put peppers and tomatoes in food processor and process till smooth. Add garlic and anchovies and process until smooth. Matthew’s note: Except for the tin of anchovies, none are firm measurements. Your inputs will depend on how much of what you have, and your taste preferences. I would suggest that one tin of anchovies goes with 4 to 6 peppers. Tester Maryellen Casey used 4 large garlic cloves (“next time I’ll up it to 6”), 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil, a 2-ounce tin of anchovies packed in olive oil (not drained), 6 roasted red peppers, and 6 sun-dried tomatoes (packed in oil, so they didn’t need reconstituting). “To my taste, those proportions were fine (except that I always want more garlic). It’s got to be one of the easiest recipes ever, especially for people like me who always have a stash of roasted red peppers on hand. It took 10 minutes or less from reading the recipe to completion. It’s very intensely flavored, so a little should go a long way.” 253 SAUCES Chicken sauces by Romain Saha: ”I find that when I roast my chicken at around 400°F it throws a good fond that makes for a nice pan sauce. Rub the bird with olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Stuff the cavity with whole cloves of garlic and thyme. Roast the chicken, remove from the pan, spoon off the clear fat and deglaze with white wine. Add around a cup of chicken stock and reduce by 75%.” Roast Chicken Piccata: Deglaze with fresh lemon juice and add capers. Roast Chicken Mamou (kind of): Use creole seasoning instead of salt and pepper, leave in a bit of fat at the end, and make a roux. Then add hot stock until you get a thin gravy consistency. Add minced chipotle in adobo until you get the heat you want. Roast Chicken Marsala: Leave in a bit of fat, sauté some onions and deglaze with Marsala wine. Roast Chicken Tarragon: Deglaze with white wine, add the stock but mix in a tablespoon of Dijon mustard (separately in a bit of stock so you don’t get lumps) and mix it into the stock in the pan. Reduce and add just a splash of whipping cream and fresh tarragon. Broiled chicken: Flatten the chicken or cut it into halves. Blend olive oil with crushed garlic, rosemary, ground sage, thyme, savory, salt, pepper and crushed chili flakes to form a thin paste. Smear the paste over the chicken and marinate for an hour or two. Broil skin side up for around 7 minutes (until the skin just starts to get dark brown spots on it). Turn the chicken over, drizzle in about ½ cup of white wine, and broil another 7 minutes or so. Turn it over again; squeeze the juice of half a lemon over the bird, and broil until done. (You may have to flip the bird a couple more times—depends on the size of your bird.) 254 COOKIES & BARS COOKIES & BARS DOUBLE CHOCOLATE DOUBLE CHERRY COOKIES Karen Brack’s recipe was a runner-up in the Dallas Morning News cookie contest. Foodwine list members said these rich, decadent cookies are so good, they deserved to win! ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking powder 12 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into large chunks 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter 4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped 4 large eggs at room temperature 1½ cups sugar 1½ tablespoons instant espresso powder 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 8 ounces dried cherries, plumped in cherry liqueur Soak the cherries in liqueur for a few hours or overnight. Whisk together flour, salt and baking soda in a medium bowl and set aside until needed. Divide the bittersweet chocolate in half and set half aside. Place butter, the remaining 6 ounces of bittersweet chocolate and the unsweetened chocolate in the top of a double boiler over (but not touching) simmering water. Heat mixture, stirring occasionally, until butter and chocolates are melted and smooth. Remove from heat. Meanwhile, put the eggs, sugar, coffee powder, and vanilla in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and beat at high speed for about ten minutes, until the mixture is very thick and forms a slowly dissolving ribbon when the whisk is lifted and the mixture is allowed to drizzle back into the bowl. With the mixer at low speed, very slowly add the warm butter-chocolate mixture. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a rubber spatula and work your spatula around the bottom of the bowl, then continue to mix just until the 256 COOKIES & BARS chocolate is thoroughly incorporated. Add the dry ingredients, the remaining bittersweet chocolate chunks, and the drained, plumped cherries. At this point, it will probably be more efficient to finish the mixing by gently folding the ingredients in with a sturdy spatula. The mixture will look like a thick, lumpy cake batter. Cover the bowl with plastic and chill for several hours or overnight. (The dough can be made ahead and refrigerated for up to 4 days.) When you are ready to bake, position the oven racks to divide the oven into thirds and preheat the oven to 350°F. Line two large baking sheets with parchment. Using a heaping tablespoon of dough for each cookie, drop the dough onto the lined sheets, leaving at least two inches between each cookie (these cookies spread). Bake the cookies for 10 to 12 minutes, rotating the pans front to back and top to bottom halfway through the baking time. These cookies are better underdone than overdone, so if in doubt, take them from the oven sooner rather than later. The cookies shouldn't appear dry and they won't be crisp. Use a wide metal spatula to transfer the cookies to wire racks to cool to room temperature. Repeat with remaining dough. Cookies can be wrapped in plastic and stored at room temperature for 2 days or kept frozen for up to a month. Thaw, still wrapped, to room temperature. Tina Vierra made an enormous batch of these cookies and gave them as holiday presents to about 30 colleagues where she works. “I knew they would be a hit and people would ask, so I printed the recipe on pretty paper and attached it to each person’s cookie bag.” A balanced diet is a cookie in each hand. Posted by Greg Walker 257 COOKIES & BARS CRANBERRY OATMEAL PECAN COOKIES List member =Mark sent this from Exit 109 off the New Jersey Turnpike. Makes 4 dozen ⁄3 cup all purpose flour ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ cup old-fashioned rolled oats 6 ounces (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, softened 2 ⁄3 cup granulated sugar 2 ⁄3 cup light brown sugar 1 large egg, lightly beaten 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 2 cups pecan pieces (about 8 ounces) 2 ⁄3 cup dried cranberries (about 4 ounces) 2 Preheat oven to 350°F. In a small bowl, whisk together flour, salt and baking soda. Stir in oats. In another bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the butter with the sugars until light and fluffy. Add the egg; beat until thoroughly incorporated. Scrape down sides with a rubber spatula and beat for another 30 seconds, adding vanilla. Using the spatula, fold in the flour/oatmeal mixture until completely incorporated. Mix in the pecans and cranberries. Line cookie sheets with parchment paper. Form the mixture into balls about 1¼ inches in diameter. Place the balls about 3 inches apart on the cookie sheets. Bake 9-10 minutes for chewy, 10-12 minutes for crisp, golden brown and lacy. Cool cookies completely before transferring to a plate with a metal spatula. They’ll keep up to a week in an airtight container, or a month in the freezer. Wendy Hunt notes that 1 ounce is 28 grams (for chefs using metric measurements). She set her convection oven to 300°F and baked for only 9 minutes. Hunt adds that rice flour can be used for gluten-free cookies. 258 COOKIES & BARS GINGER COOKIES Contributor Wendy Hunt owns a food shop and café. “I sell more of these cookies than chocolate chip cookies.” Makes 30 cookies 2 cups all-purpose flour 2 teaspoons ground ginger 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground allspice ½ teaspoon salt ¾ cup (1½ sticks) unsalted butter at room temperature 1 cup dark brown sugar 1 large egg 3 tablespoons dark molasses ½ cup toffee bits ¼ cup minced crystallized ginger Sugar for coating (turbinado or white sugar is best) Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter 2 large baking sheets, or line with parchment paper or Silpat liners. Mix first 6 ingredients in a medium bowl. Using electric mixer, beat butter and sugar in large bowl until well blended, about 1 minute. Add egg and molasses; beat until well blended but do not over beat. Add dry ingredients; beat on low speed just until blended. Mix in toffee and crystallized ginger. Chill the dough. Shape into balls about 1½ inches in diameter. Roll the balls in sugar, coating completely. Bake 8 minutes, turn sheet around, and continue baking for another 7 minutes. Cool only a few minutes before removing from baking sheets—otherwise toffee bits will stick. Notes: You can refrigerate dough overnight, but let soften before rolling. 259 COOKIES & BARS SNOWBALL COOKIES Rosebud says of this recipe, “This is my favorite Christmas cookie. We vary it by using different nuts, but pecans are the original. Walnuts are especially good, too. Even with the sugar coating, these aren’t too sweet, and they’re perfect with tea or egg nog.” Makes 2 ½ dozen ½ cup butter, softened 2 tablespoons sugar ¾ cup flour 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup nuts, finely chopped 1 cup powdered sugar, sifted, divided for use Beat butter and sugar at medium speed with an electric mixer until light and fluffy. Stir in flour and ¼ cup powdered sugar. Stir in vanilla extract and nuts, blending well. Chill 30 minutes. Shape dough into 1-inch balls and place on ungreased cookie sheets. Bake at 350°F for 12 to 15 minutes or until light golden brown. Roll warm cookies in powdered sugar. Roll again when the cookies are completely cooled. Store in airtight container at room temperature. Tester Joan Waldron tried the recipe using walnuts and pecans, and suggests that hazelnuts and unsalted, roasted cashews would be delicious nuts to choose. The cookies can also be shaped in creative ways, such as rolling out log-style and then curving them into horseshoes before baking. 260 DESSERTS DESSERTS ANDRE’S KEY LIME PIE Matthew Hill and his family bring us another treat. Chef Andre of the Green Flash restaurant on Captiva Island, Florida, made 20 of these pies at a time. Matthew, Evie, and Lisa have adapted it for a single pie. “This is not the traditional Key Lime Pie,” Matthew says. “It is more like a delicious Key Lime Mousse in a pie shell.” 1 graham cracker crust, 8 inches or less (Use Keebler-brand crust if available; generic ones crumble) 1 cup sugar, divided in half ½ cup key lime juice 6 egg whites 3 egg yolks (give the other 3 to the dog) 8 ounces whipping cream 1 teaspoon vanilla CAUTION: Ingredients MUST be added in the order given or you are wasting your time. In medium bowl, whip 6 egg whites into peaks, adding ½ cup of the sugar near the end of the whipping. Be sure the sugar dissolves. In a large mixing bowl, whip 3 egg yolks with ½ cup key lime juice and the other ½ cup sugar and vanilla. In a third bowl, whip the cream as stiff as possible. Fold the whipped cream into the egg yolks using as few strokes as possible. Fold the egg whites into the previous mixture using as few strokes as possible. Put mixture into pie crust and place in freezer for at least 4 hours. Use all of it, heap it up. It will settle in the freezer. Thaw slightly before serving. Garnish with additional whipped cream. Notes: Examine crust carefully before putting your filling in, to be sure it is not cracked; otherwise the filling will leak out. Use the plastic cover on the crust to cover the pie in the freezer. 262 DESSERTS BAKED STUFFED PEACHES Pat Belanger offers a recipe from the Crème de la Crème Committee of the Art Gallery of Brantford, Ontario, Canada. Serves 6 6 large firm peaches (peeled, halved, and pitted) or 12 large canned half peaches 1½ tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons chopped pecans ¾ cup crumbled macaroons 1 egg yolk, beaten 1 tablespoon cognac 4 tablespoons Marsala wine or sweet sherry ¼ cup peach syrup or water 2 tablespoons butter Cream butter and sugar; add macaroon crumbs, nuts, egg yolk and cognac. Stuff the peaches with this mixture. Arrange in buttered baking dish, and sprinkle one teaspoon wine on each peach. Pour syrup or water into dish and bake at 350°F for 25 minutes, or until peaches are knife-tender. (Canned peaches only require about 15 minutes.) Tester Janet Morrissey used the season’s first fresh peaches for this recipe, and says her guests went nuts for the dessert. Some say the glass is half empty, some say the glass is half full, I say, are you going to drink that?” ~Lisa Claymen Posted by Tina V. 263 DESSERTS CLAFOUTI OR CLAFOUTIS, DEPENDING... …on whose cookbook you’re reading,” says Bob Pastorio. “The traditional preparation uses cherries with the pits still inside them. It’s good, but I don’t see much flavor difference (actually, I see no flavor difference, but I don’t want to admit that), and I‘d rather avoid the dental bills from an inadvertent molar-pit encounter. I prefer large, sweet Bing, Queen Anne or Rainier cherries.” 1 tablespoon butter (or more to fully coat the baking dish) ½ cup all-purpose flour Pinch of salt 1 ⁄3 cup granulated sugar 4 eggs 2 egg yolks 1 cup milk 1 cup heavy cream 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 3 tablespoons kirsch 1½ pounds cherries, pitted Confectioners’ sugar, for dusting Heat oven to 350°F. Generously butter a 9- to 10-inch tart pan, pie dish, or baking dish. Put flour, salt, sugar, eggs, yolks, milk, cream, vanilla and kirsch in a blender and mix thoroughly, about a minute. Spread cherries evenly in the tart pan. Pour the batter through a sieve over the cherries. Bake until the top is puffed and uniformly golden-brown. Test with the point of a paring knife. It should come out clean when stuck into the center. Cool for few minutes, shake a generous dusting of confectioners' sugar over and serve. Best served just warm. A dab of vanilla ice cream doesn’t hurt it a bit. Variations use about 3 cups of peeled, cored and sliced pears; peeled plums; sautéed peeled, cored and sliced apples; blackberries; or blueberries. 264 DESSERTS Bob’s notes: The batter will puff while baking and settle back down as it cools. Baking time will vary from about 40 to 55 minutes, depending on size and type of baking dish. Smaller-diameters will take longer because they’re deeper. You can either pour the batter over the fruit and bake it, ilor you can put a little bit of batter into the dish, bake until set, scatter the fruit over it (sometimes with a bit of sugar sprinkled over), pour the rest of the batter over, and finish-bake it.I prefer the second way, but it takes more time and attention.”. Tester Janet Morrissey said, “I made a cherry and a blueberry one…There was a small riot over these and both were gone before any of the other desserts.” Yes, of course you can freeze apple pies. I recommend freezing before baking, but my customers tell me they freeze them after baking too. I do this every year. Make your crust: Spread some Crisco on the bottom—this is supposed to aid in keeping out moisture—and add filling. Place top crust, again spreading Crisco on the top. Add butter to fruit on top before freezing. Things to remember: Put foil in the bottom of the pie plate before placing the bottom layer of pastry–makes removing pie much easier. Don’t ask me how I know this or how often I have forgotten! After pie freezes, remove from plate, completely cover with foil, and store in a container that will protect the fragile pastry (again, don’t ask me how I know). Don’t get too fancy with crust edges of your crust— plain old is good when freezing. Keep pies away from much contact: I keep pie-sized boxes around from year to year for this very reason. When ready to cook, remove from foil, place in pie plate, punch a holes for the steam to escape, bake frozen at 400°F for l hour or so, et voilà—a great pie!~Wendy, who runs a café in eastern Canada 265 DESSERTS COEUR À LA CRÈME Another winner from contributor Terry Pogue, this one is easy to make, beautiful to present, and utterly delicious. “Traditionally you use a Coeur à la Crème dish. It’s heart shaped with holes in the bottom. If you do not have one, you can use a 7-inch sieve lined with damp cheesecloth or paper towels.” Serves 6 12 ounces cream cheese at room temperature 1¼ cup confectioners’ sugar 2½ cups cold heavy cream 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest Seeds scraped from 1 vanilla bean 2 half-pints fresh raspberries Raspberry and Grand Marnier sauce (recipe follows) Make sure your cream cheese is at room temperature or this won’t work. Beat the cream cheese and confectioners’ sugar in an electric mixed fitted with the paddle attachment on high for 2 minutes. Change to the whisk attachment and beat on low speed while adding the heavy cream, vanilla, lemon zest and vanilla bean seeds. Then turn the mixer to high speed and beat until the mixture is very thick, much like whipped cream. Dampen a cheese cloth and line the heart with the cloth, allowing the ends to drape over the sides. Then fold the cheesecloth over the heart. Place the filled dish on a plate with enough room to catch any liquid. Refrigerate overnight. To serve, discard the liquid, unmold the cream onto a plate, and drizzle Raspberry and Grand Marnier Sauce around the base. Serve with raspberries and extra sauce. 266 DESSERTS RASPBERRY AND GRAND MARNIER SAUCE Yields 2 cups 1 half-pint fresh raspberries ½ cup sugar 1 cup seedless raspberry jam 2 tablespoons orange-flavored liqueur, preferably Grand Marnier Place raspberries, sugar, and ¼ cup water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer for 4 minutes. Pour the cooked raspberries, the jam, and orange liqueur into the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and process until smooth. Chill. Testers declared the dish topped our “Best Ever” lists. Janet reported, “I love make-ahead dishes! This was done 2 days ahead and just rested in the fridge until needed. This is truly a scrape-the-plate dessert (see, I was good and didn’t say lick the plate).” Sign on a bakery truck: Cakes—66 cents, Upside-down Cakes—99 cents Posted by Greg 267 DESSERTS GRANDMA’S BLUEBERRY PUDDING Family recipes are special treasures. Contributor Rosebud remembers,”My grandmother would make this from the blueberries in her back yard. It always signaled the beginning of summer to me. When blueberries are around now, I make this for my sister. This is only a pudding in that pudding=dessert.” 1 cup sugar 1 egg ⅛ pound butter (¼ cup, or half a stick) 1 teaspoon vanilla 2 cups plus 2 tablespoons flour ⅛ teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 1 pint blueberries 1½ teaspoons baking powder Cream butter, egg, and sugar until light. Sift salt, baking powder, and 2 cups flour together. Add milk and flour alternately to the creamed mixture. Gently toss berries in 2 tablespoons flour, and gently fold into the batter. Pour into a well-greased 9-by-13-inch cake pan and bake at 350°F for 45 minutes. Serve with warm lemon hard sauce (recipe follows). A grenade thrown into a kitchen in France would result in Napoleons Blownapart. Posted by Diane Laux in Chicago 268 DESSERTS LEMON HARD SAUCE 2 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon cornstarch 3 tablespoons sugar ½ cup fresh lemon juice ½ cup water ¼ teaspoon vanilla Blend sugar and corn starch into butter. Stir in water and lemon juice and cook over medium heat until thickened. Stir in the vanilla. Serve warm over blueberry pudding. Rosebud says, “If it was made for Grandpa, Grandma would use 1 cup of water and leave out the lemon juice because he didn’t like lemon.” Tester Jennie Martin told us, “This was very good. A moist, tender cake, and I think it would be good with other berries. I’ll be trying it with raspberries next. I really like this best still just slight warm with the hard sauce pored over it warm. I had never heard of the term “hard sauce” before, but recognized it from the topping for cooked fruit that my mother used to make.” Murder is always a mistake. One should never do anything that one cannot talk about after dinner. ~Oscar Wilde Posted by Tina V. 269 DESSERTS BLACKBERRY COBBLER Contributor Terry Pogue told us, “This is the best cobbler I have ever tasted.” 8 cups blackberries, fresh or frozen 1 cup sugar ¼ cup instant pearl tapioca Juice of ½ lime Pinch salt 1 cup flour 1 cup sweetened shredded coconut ¾ cup sugar ½ cup pecans, coarsely chopped ½ teaspoon baking powder ¼ teaspoon salt ½ cup (1 stick) cold butter, cubed 1 egg Preheat oven to 375°F. Mix the first 5 ingredients in a bowl. Spoon into a 2-quart baking dish. Combine the next 6 ingredients in a bowl. Using your fingertips, knead in the butter until incorporated. Mixture should look like coarse sand. Blend in the egg, then arrange topping over the berries in clumps, covering them evenly. Bake the cobbler for 45 to 50 minutes, or until topping is golden and crisp, and filling is thick and bubbly. Cool on a rack for at least 1 hour before serving. Serve with crème anglaise. Tester Janet Morrissey reported, “I loved, loved, loved the addition of coconut in the topping.” Function in disaster, finish in style. Posted by Terry Pogue 270 DESSERTS GRILLED PEACHES WITH A CHUNK OF BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE Terry Pogue gave us this one, saying, “Every cookbook needs a really simple, elegant dessert. I think this qualifies on both counts.” Serves 6 2 tablespoons butter, melted 6 ripe peaches, halved and pitted (scoop out any hard bits) 6½ ounces bittersweet chocolate, broken into ½-ounce pieces Ice cream, optional Cut the peaches in half and remove the pit. Place the unpeeled peach halves, flesh side down on a grill pan or outdoor grill. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, or until peaches begin to brown slightly. This will give you some pretty grill marks on the peaches. Put the peaches, flesh side up in an ovenproof dish. Place a ½-ounce chunk of chocolate in the well of each peach half. Using a pastry brush, coat the peaches with the melted butter. Roast in 450°F oven for 10 to 15 minutes, until the peaches are soft and tender all the way through and the chocolate is oozy. To serve, place 2 peach halves in a shallow bowl and serve with a scoop of your favorite ice cream. Tester Denny Arar pronounced this an excellent dish. “Quick, tasty, great ingredients—what’s not to like? A real winner. Rose straight to the top of my list of things to do with summer peaches. I used 70% bittersweet chocolate.” Chocolate sauce is not the answer for bad cooking. Posted by Lara Fulton 271 DESSERTS MAHOGANY POUND CAKE We love the personal notes and memories attached to Rosebud’s recipes. “This was on a recipe card in my sister’s collection. The note she has on it says it’s from the Southern Living 1989 annual recipe collection. My best friend, John, loves this cake and I usually make it for his birthday.” 1 cup butter, softened 2 cups sugar 1 cup firmly-packed brown sugar 6 eggs, separated, at room temperature 2½ cups all-purpose flour ½ cup cocoa 1 cup sour cream ¼ teaspoon baking soda 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Cream butter; gradually add sugars, beating well at medium speed of an electric mixer. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating after each addition. Sift flour and cocoa together. Mix baking soda with sour cream. Alternating flour mixture and sour cream, add to butter mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture. Mix just until blended after each addition. Stir in vanilla. Beat egg whites until stiff peaks form; fold into batter. Spoon the batter into a greased and floured 10-inch tube pan. Bake at 325°F for 1 hour, 15 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in pan 10 minutes; remove from pan, and let cool completely on a wire rack. Tester Diane Laux told us, “It was a just-right cake to my taste buds – not too sweet, not overly moist, and very tasty.” 272 DESSERTS MOLTEN CHOCOLATE CAKES Maryellen Casey gave us this winner. “Here’s my tried-and-true, quick and easy version that I throw together whenever my husband or I are having one of those I NEED CHOCOLATE NOW days.” ½ pound butter ½ pound good quality chocolate chips ½ cup sugar 4 large eggs 4 large egg yolks 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon flour Cocoa powder to dust ramekins Confectioners’ sugar and/or cocoa powder to finish Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter six 4-ounce ramekins; dust with cocoa powder. Melt the butter and chocolate chips together over low heat. Remove from heat; whisk in the sugar, eggs, and egg yolks, then stir in the flour. Spoon into prepared ramekins. Bake for 10 minutes, or until the sides are set but the center is still a bit loose. ("Bake them until they aren't done enough" is what we say in our house.) Remove from oven and let sit for a minute, then run a thin knife around the sides and invert onto plates; dust with confectioners' sugar, cocoa, or a mixture of the two. Especially yummy when served with ice cream or fresh berries. Notes: You can make the batter, spoon it into the ramekins, and refrigerate or even freeze until ready to bake. (Baking time is, of course, longer if they’re starting out chilled or frozen, so check them as they bake.) It’s nice to have some of these on hand in the freezer when chocolate emergencies arise! Terry Pogue declared this a perfect recipe for beginners, and a perfect dessert for any chocolate lover. 273 DESSERTS OLD-FASHIONED CARROT CAKE Carol Peterson sent us this one. 1½ cups oil 2 cups sugar 3 large eggs 2¼ cups flour 2 teaspoons cinnamon 2 teaspoons baking soda 2 teaspoons vanilla 1 teaspoon salt 2 cups raw carrots, shredded 2 cups coconut, flaked 1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped 8 ounces pineapple, crushed Cream cheese frosting: 3 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 cup (2 sticks) melted butter 2 tablespoons milk ½ teaspoon vanilla extract Powdered sugar, as needed Combine all ingredients in order given, using wooden spoon. Bake in greased and floured 9-by-13-inch pan at 350°F for 50-60 minutes, or until cake springs back when lightly touched. Cool completely. Frost with cream cheese frosting. For a layer cake, divide batter between two 8-inch cake pans. Bake at 350°F for 25 minutes. Cool 10 minutes and turn out on cake racks. Cool and frost. Janet Morrissey added ¾ cup of raisins to her cake. She said it was dense and delicious, with the carrots and pineapple adding lots of moisture. “I have never used coconut in a carrot cake, and I think it added additional texture and flavor. I think I might mix some toasted coconut into the frosting next time.” 274 DESSERTS OLD-FASHIONED HOT MILK CAKE Rosebud tells us, “My mother was never much interested in cooking or baking, but she made this cake for birthdays and it was always so good. It’s very rich and moist, and you can get away with no icing if you want to, or you can just sprinkle powdered sugar through a doily for a pretty decoration.” 1 cup milk ½ cup (1 stick) butter 4 eggs 2 cups sugar 1 pinch salt 2 cups flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons vanilla extract Heat the milk and butter over very low heat until the milk is warm and the butter is completely melted. Set aside. Sift together the flour and baking soda. Beat the eggs until foamy and add the sugar and salt. Beat until light and fluffy and then add the milk mixture and the flour mixture in alternating batches. Stir in the vanilla. Pour into two 8-inch pans and bake at 375°F for 22 to 28 minutes. Cool slightly and then turn out onto a rack to cool completely. Notes: You can split open a vanilla pod, scrape out the beans and put pod and beans in with the milk and butter, instead of using vanilla extract. Tester Jennie Martin loved the moistness of this cake, and says she won’t even bother to frost it when she makes it again. 275 DESSERTS QUICK AND EASY HOMEMADE SORBET Contributor Ellen Court first posted this to the list from a newspaper article she’d read. Numerous Foodwinos have made the recipe and loved it, including our stray grey mouse and Christine Babcock. Freeze, for 12 hours, a 16-ounce can of your choice of fruit (pears are a wonderful choice because pear sorbet is impossible to find). Run under hot water for a minute or two. Open the bottom end using a can opener, and drain the liquid into a food processor; then push the fruit out and chop into 1” pieces. If the heavy syrup in the can of fruit freezes so that you can’t drain it out, leave the can out at room temperature for about half an hour. Also, do not open the pull-tab end (some canned goods come with a pull-tab these days) because you can’t safely push out the fruit from that end. Place fruit in food processor and process until smooth, about a minute. Serve at once or transfer to a container and place in the freezer. Makes about 1 pint. Apricot sorbet: Use a 16-ounce can of apricots, frozen at least 12 hours. Add 2 tablespoons of Amaretto (optional) at the processing stage. Pina colada sorbet: Use a 20-ounce can crushed pineapple in juice, frozen at least 12 hours; add 3 tablespoons dark rum and 6 tablespoons cream of coconut, chilled, at the processing stage. Frozen peach yogurt: Use an 8-ounce container nonfat peach yogurt, frozen at least 12 hours; and an 8½-ounce can peaches, frozen at least 12 hours. And from our tester: “I have made this now with several other fruits—guava, canned mango in juice, another tropical fruit I can’t remember that I found in the Asian market—all of them were delicious. I have a can of lychee in the freezer now just to have on hand for an impromptu dinner party. Wonderful surprise dessert!” 276 DESSERTS REAL TEXAS PEACH COBBLER Joe Wells, an Arkansas man, is our go-to expert on all things barbeque. Bob Coomler nominated Joe’s peach cobbler for the cookbook, saying, “I have a dislike of baking, but this is one of maybe three exceptions.” 4 cups fresh peaches, sliced ¼ cup sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice ¼ cup butter 1¼ cups flour 2 tablespoons baking powder ½ teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar 1 cup milk Preheat oven to 350°F. Mix together the peaches, sugar, cinnamon and lemon juice. Allow the mixture to sit while you make the batter, so the juices can be drawn out of the peaches. Put the butter in a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish in the preheating oven just long enough to melt the butter and warm the pan. While the butter is melting, make the batter by combining the flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and milk. Remove the pan from the oven and pour the batter into the melted butter. Carefully spoon the peach mixture over the batter, and return dish to the oven to bake for 45 minutes. As the cobbler bakes, the batter will begin to rise up and around the peaches. Notes: You can vary the amount of butter to personal taste, and vary the sugar based on the sweetness of the peaches. Maryellen Casey reported success using six cups of peaches and blueberries and replacing about 1/3 cup of flour with cornmeal. 277 DESSERTS ROSE-FLAVORED GLASSES Bob Pastorio became a newspaper food columnist after he retired as a chef. He wrote this recipe in 1992 and describes it as “a marinated fresh fruit salad for grownups - very fruity but not overly sweet. The flavors are surprising and satisfying, and you can wonderfully wreck your diet by putting a generous dollop of whipped cream on top of each serving.” Serves 4 to 6 1 cup raspberries 1 cup strawberries, hulled and sliced ¼ inch thick 1 cup cherries, pitted 2 tablespoons white wine 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar Petals from 2 scented roses 1½ cups heavy cream (at least 36% milkfat) ½ cup plain yogurt Mint leaves for garnish Pound cake or cookies for serving Yes, you eat the rose petals. Make sure the petals come from flowers intended to be eaten; many supermarkets now carry them in the produce section. (Flowers from florists are usually sprayed with various chemicals not for consumption.) Or pick some unsprayed ones from your garden. Rinse and dry the fruit, and hold aside in a bowl. Pick petals from flowers, rinse and pat dry. Combine wine and sugar to mix, and add petals. Add to fruit and toss very gently to coat. Refrigerate for an hour. Just before serving, whip the cream and fold in yogurt. Add 2 or 3 tablespoons of the marinated fruit, and fold to mix. Portion the rest of the fruit into glass dessert cups, top with flavored cream, and garnish with mint leaves. Serve over a slice of pound cake or with crisp cookies. 278 DESSERTS SOUR CREAM APPLE PIE Submitted by Carol Peterson. ¾ cup sugar 2 tablespoons flour ½ teaspoon cinnamon ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon salt 1 2-pack frozen unbaked 9-inch pie shells, thawed ½ cup sour cream 2 pounds peeled apple slices Combine first five (dry) ingredients. Cover bottom of one of the pie shells with ¼ of mixture. Stir remaining mixture into sour cream. Slice apples ⅛-inch thick, and stir into sour cream mixture. Place into the first pie shell and cover with the other pie shell. Let rest 10 minutes. Sprinkle with sugar and cinnamon. Bake at 450°F for 15 minutes, reduce heat to 325°F, and bake about 45 minutes, or until apples are done. Important: Cool 3-4 hours on a rack before cutting. Tester Janet Morrissey says, “This is less sweet than your normal pie, which I really liked about it, and the bit of dry mixture put in the bottom of the pie first, keeps the mixture from making the bottom crust soggy. This really does firm up nicely if left alone, and the slices are really beautiful.” She used store-bought pie crust and reports it worked well. Scary thought of the day: A new set of golden arches pops up somewhere on the globe every four hours. Posted by Dragon 279 DESSERTS WALNUT CAKE WITH SAUTÉED PEARS AND CINNAMON CREAM Rosebud contributed this one “I first had this at a friend’s house several years ago, and begged and pleaded until she gave me the recipe. This is a wonderful special occasion cake; but then, any day can be a special occasion.” Cake : 1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 teaspoon baking powder Pinch of salt ½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into pieces 1 cup sugar 2 large eggs, at room temperature, separated ½ cup milk 1 cup chopped walnuts 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract Pears : 2 tablespoons unsalted butter 6 small Bosc pears, cored, peeled and cut into ¼-inch pieces 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice Cream : 1 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoons sugar 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly butter and flour a 9-inch round cake pan and tap out the excess flour. Prepare the cake: Combine flour, baking powder and salt in a bowl and whisk 8 280 DESSERTS to 10 times until well mixed. Using an electric mixer set on medium-high speed, cream the butter and sugar in another bowl. Add the egg yolks and beat until smooth. Add the dry ingredients in 3 or 4 batches, alternating with the milk and ending with the dry ingredients. Stir well, then fold in the nuts and vanilla. Using an electric mixer set on medium-high, beat egg whites until they hold stiff peaks. Fold whites into the batter just until mixed. Spread the batter in the cake pan. Bake on the center oven rack for 35 to 40 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Turn out onto a wire rack to cool. Prepare the pears: In a sauté pan or skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat and cook the pears, stirring, for about 5 minutes, or just until softened. Sprinkle with the sugar. Add the cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon juice and mix well. Cover to keep warm. To make the cream, using an electric mixer set on medium-high speed, whip the cream and sugar until the cream is thick but not dry. Add the cinnamon and continue whipping until the cream is the desired consistency. Serve the cake topped with the pears and cream. Tester Sheila Foster noted that other nuts work as well as walnuts if you prefer. When serving, top the cake itself with the pears, but serve the whipped cream separately as each piece is cut, since the toppings may run together. If you don’t like too much spice on delicately flavored pears, you can adjust to your own taste. In my experience, clever food is not appreciated at Christmas. It makes the little ones cry and the old ones nervous. ~Jane Grigson Posted by Pat Belanger 281 DESSERTS STELLA-STYLE NEW YORK RICOTTA CHEESECAKE “This recipe got me through my first year of low-carb eating,” Rosebud says. “I sometimes top this with whatever fruit is in season, but it is fine as is.” 24 ounces cream cheese, softened 1 cup extra-fine whole milk ricotta cheese, processed in a food processor for 1 minute ½ cup sour cream 1½ cups sugar substitute (Splenda recommended) 1 ⁄3 cup heavy cream 1 tablespoon no-sugar-added vanilla extract 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice 2 eggs 3 egg yolks Preheat oven to 400°F. Spray an 8-inch springform pan with nonstick vegetable oil cooking spray. Pour about an inch of water into a shallow roasting pan big enough to fit the cake pan; place it on the center rack of the oven to preheat. In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat softened cream cheese, ricotta, sour cream and sugar substitute on low speed for about a minute until well blended. In a separate bowl, using a wire whisk, mix heavy cream, vanilla, lemon juice, eggs, and egg yolks until blended. With the mixer on medium speed, slowly pour egg mixture into cheese mixture. Beat just until blended; don’t over-whip. Pour batter into the greased springform pan. Place pan into the heated water bath. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower oven temperature to 275°F. Continue baking for 1½ hours, or until top is light golden brown and cake is pulling away from the sides of the pan. Turn the oven off when finished cooking and leave the cake in the oven to cool for 3 more hours. (This will keep the cake nice and tall.) Remove cake and refrigerate. Serve chilled. 282 index “After a good dinner one can forgive anybody, even one’s own relations” ~Oscar Wilde INDEX INDEX INDEX A addi water 242 Aegean Rice Salad 108 Alice’s Corn Crab Cakes 128 almond flour 73 Almost No-Knead Bread With Olives, Rosemary, and Parmesan 67 Almost No-Knead Cranberry-Pecan Bread 68 Almost No-Knead Whole Wheat Bread 67 Amazing Almost No-Knead Bread 66 anchovies 42, 184, 253 andouille sausages 134 Andre’s Key Lime Pie 262 Anise/White Vinegar 12 Any Beer Bread 26 Any Fruit Curd 20 Any Fruit Dessert Soufflé 10 Any Nut Triple-Nut Pie 9 Anything Infused Vinegar 11 Anything Pasta Salad with Anything Vinaigrette 28 Anything Quick Bread 25 Anything Risotto 2 Apple & Walnut Salad with Maple Dressing 112 Apricot Brandied Chicken Breasts 142 Apricot Sorbet 276 Arroz Verde (Green Rice) 190 Artichoke-Asiago Dip 40 artichokes 40, 43, 154, 219 Asian chili sauce 191 asparagus 8, 218, 227 avocados 22, 94, 115, 120, 176, 252 Awesome Asparagus 218 B Baby Squash Romano 220 bacon 26, 56, 87, 113, 114, 117, 156, 159, 214, 221, Baked Beans 221 Baked Stuffed Peaches 263 Balsamic Pork and Cranberry Roast 209 banana 21, 25, 70, 138 Basic Meat Brine 247 Basic Risotto 2 Basil Crusted Veal Chop 158 Basil-Garlic/Cider Vinegar 12 284 INDEX beans 86, 87, 97, 188, 205, 221, 275 black 86, 87, 221, 242 béchamel sauce 10, 14, 16 beef bones for sauce/stock 16, 31 braised 164 brining 246-248 chuck 86 curried 202 ground 86, 188, 205 short ribs 165, 166 sirloin 202 stew meat 86, 160, 164, 203, 207 beer 26, 43, 64, 66, 122, 168 beets 92 Beer-Batter Artichoke Hearts 43 Beyond Basic Butter 37 black-eyed peas 53 Black Bean Chili 86 Black Bean Quesadillas 242 Black Bean Soup 87 Blackberry Cobbler 270 Block Party Pepper Salad 110 blue cheese 46, 61, 240 blueberries 10, 264, 268, 277 BLT Salad with Basil Mayonnaise Dressing 113 Bob Collins 63 Bob’s Baked Beans 221 Bon Appétit Cookbook 184 bouquet garni 15 Bonanza Bread 70 bourbon 210, 211 Boursin-ish Cheese 42 Brack Forest Bread 69 Bread Machine Cookbook 69 Breadcrumb and Flour Coatings 36 Brie 23, 62 Brined Pork and Veal Chops 248 Brining for Beginners 246 broccoli 8, 12, 114, 222 Broccoli Salad 114 Broccoli Trees with Parmesan and Lemon 222 Broiled Chicken 254 Broiled Fish with Indian Spices 126 Brooklyn Grandmom’s Date Nut Bread 76 brown sauces 16 Brussels Sprouts Soup 90 bulgur 172 butter curried 146 nut 9 sauce 146 buttermilk 37, 77, 83 C cake 129, 267, 272, 274, 275, 280-282 capers 7, 45, 129, 177, 251 285 INDEX Carote Alla Giudia (Carrots in the Jewish Style) 164 cauliflower 8, 12, 110, 223, 228 roasted 228 Cheese Ball 41 cheese sauce 218 cherries 26, 63, 64, 69, 256, 264 chick peas 110, 221 chicken breasts 142, 143, 145, 146, 147, 149-151, 154, 171, 204 brining 247 broiled 254 diced, cooked 148, 216 ground 188 pieces 144 quarters 153 sauces 16, 254 soups 8, 88 stock 31, 183 thighs 134, 135, 151, 213 whole roaster 144, 152, 254 Chicken & Spinach in a Coconut Curry Sauce 143 Chicken a la Romana 144 Chicken Skewers With Lemon Sauce 145 Chicken with Mushrooms and Sun-Dried Tomatoes 204 chickpeas 47 chili 86, 119, 169, 188 Chili Peppers/Cider Vinegar 13 chili peppers 206 chipotle 88, 130, 156, 176, 225 hot dried red 224 poblano 151, 242 chili powder 87, 205, 210 chili sauce 105, 191, 210, 211 Chipotle Chicken and Veggie Soup 88 chocolate 69, 109, 256, 257, 271, 273 bittersweet 256, 271 sauce 271 unsweetened 256 Chopped Salad with Salsa Verde Dressing 115 Chutney Glazed Chicken Breasts 146 Cinnamon Rolls (or Sticky Buns) 74 Cinnamon Toast Pancakes 72 Cinnamon/Cider Vinegar 12 Classic Sauces 14 cobbler 277 coconut 30, 270, 274, 276 curry sauce 143 coconut milk 30, 96, 105, 143 Coeur à la Crème 266 Cold Beet Borscht 92 cookies cranberry oatmeal pecan 258 double chocolate double cherry 256 ginger 259 286 INDEX cookies (continued) gluten-free 258 snowball 260 Cooking Light Magazine 208 Cook’s Illustrated Magazine 66, 68 corn 105, 128, 168, 242 crab cakes 128 cream-style 105 Corn Muffins with Smoked Turkey and Jalapeño Jelly 24 cornmeal 205 cornichons 214, 215 couscous 192 Crab Boboli Extravaganza 54 Crab Patties with Chipotle Mayonnaise 130 crabmeat 127, 128, 130 cranberries 26, 30, 148, 209, 258 Cranberry Oatmeal Pecan Cookies 258 cream cheese frosting 274 Cream Of Anything Soup 8 cream sauce 154, 155, 218 Creamed Sage Chicken Scallopini 147 crystallized ginger 82, 259 cucumbers 6, 28, 63, 94, 192, 207, 232 curds 20, 21 Curried Chicken Clafoutis 148 Curried Couscous 192 Curried Lamb Chops 173 curry 143, 146, 148, 169, 173, 192, 193, 202, 223 butter mixture 146 paste 143 powder 143, 146, 148, 169, 173, 193, 202, 223 custard sauces 16 D Decorative Pickled Vegetables 18 demi-glacé 12, 14 depouillage…15 dessert sauces 16 Dijon-Tarragon Cream Sauce 250 Dilled Potato Salad 116 dip 43, 49, 58, 173, 177, 219, 251 distilled vinegar 11 Dolmades (Stuffed Grape Leaves) 24 Double Chocolate Double Cherry Cookies 256 dressing 12, 13, 28, 55, 110, 112, 115, 117, 163, 218, 221, 223, 244, 251 anything vinaigrette 28 basil mayonnaise 113 cream-lemon-oil 218 curried 223 Gorgonzola 251 for shrimp 55 maple 112 287 INDEX dressing (continued) salsa verde 115 vinaigrette 28 duck 129, 215, 247 E Easy Crockpot Curry 202 eggplant 59, 160, 161 patties 58, 59 eggs boiled 117 poached 218 scrambled 57 emulsified sauces 16 F fettuccine 191 Fennel Spice Seasoning 171 Fettuccine and Shrimp in Scallion-Ginger-Chili Sauce 191 Fettuccini Alfredo with Prosciutto and Peas 194 Fig-Walnut Tapenade with Goat Cheese 45 figs 22, 23, 45 fish 7, 11, 146, 178, 181, 249, 252 baked 139 brining 249 broiled 14, 126, 249 ceviche 38 fish (continued) crusted 131 fillets 126, 249 grilled 115, 138, 146, 236 pan-fried 132-133 poaching 12 seviche 38 steaks 126 steamed 136 stock 3, 31 whole 136 Fish Fillets in a Maple and Dill Brine 249 fonds 15 fonds blanc 15, 16 Forever Roasted Lamb 170 Four-Cheese Chicken Breasts Florentine 149 Frozen Peach Yogurt 276 fruit, cooked 269 fruit salads 11, 12 fumet 15 G game meats 246 Garlic/Red Wine Vinegar 11 German Potato Salad 117 gin 63, 64 Ginger Cookies 259 Ginger Cream 103 Ginger-Steamed Whole Fish With Asian Flavors 136 288 INDEX Ginger/Cider Vinegar 12 Girlies Green Sauce 252 glaze 10, 30, 146 goat cheese 42, 45 Gorgonzola whipped cream 251 Gorgonzola (or any Blue-Veined Cheese) Dressing for Salad 251 Gorgonzola, Grape and Nut Crostini 46 Gougere 44 Grand Marnier Sauce 266, 267 Grandma’s Blueberry Pudding 268 Grandma’s Maryland Crab Cakes 127 Grandpa Mikey’s Habanero Jelly 48 Grapefruit/Cider Vinegar 11 gravy 12, 17, 172, 208, 209 Gravy Tactics 17 Green Chili Stew 206 Green Lentils with Lemon Slices 224 Green Peppercorn Sauce 182 Grilled Baby Artichokes 219 Grilled Chicken Breasts 150 Grilled Mahi Mahi with Banana Salsa 138 Grilled Peaches with a Chunk of Bittersweet Chocolate 271 Grilled Shrimp and Smokey Chilled Gazpacho 94 Gruyère 14 guacamole 242, 243, 252 H ham 73, 84, 158, 196, 212, 246 Harissa 132, 133 Herbed Hummus Dip 47 Homemade Chicken Stock 183 honey 13, 22, 23, 73, 120, 180, 213 Honey Cider Vinegar 13 horseradish 214, 215, 251 Horseradish Whipped Cream 251 Hot Bandanas 244 Hot Pepper Vinegar 13 Hungarian Barley Stew 207 Hush Puppies Puffs 77 Iicing 74, 75, 275 Ingriyi (Iraqi Sweet-and-Sour Meat with Eggplant) 160 Italian Green Beans with Tomatoes 226 Jjalapeño peppers 13, 22, 51, 96, 118, 120, 140, 171, 179 Jalapeño Vinegar 13 289 INDEX K kielbasa 90, 214 knishes 238, 239 L lamb brining 246 chops 173 curried 173 grilled 174 ground 169 leg of 170, 172, 174 rack of 173 roasted 170, 172 shank 98 shoulder 172 stews 98, 160, 202 Lamb and Orzo with Indian Spices 169 Lamb with Apricot, Cinnamon, and Cumin Stuffing 172 Lemon Basil Crostini 24 Lemon Carrot Muffins 78 Lemon Hard Sauce 269 Lemon Risotto (Risotto al Limone) 3 Lemon Sauce 145 Lemon Vinegar 11 lentils 132, 133 Leslie’s Mom’s Sweet and Sour Pork 186 Lex’s Roast Chicken 152 Liaison 15 Lime-Cilantro Rice 195 liqueurs, orange-flavored 267 Lisa’s Eggplant Patties 59 Little Girlies Green Sauce 252 Lori’s Warm Brie Appetizer 62 Lots of Appetizers 22 M Madhur Jaffrey’s Grilled Boneless Leg of Lamb 174 Maggi sauce and seasoning 220 Mahogany Pound Cake 272 Maman’s Cheese Soufflé 79 Mango Cilantro Jalapeño Salad 118 mangoes 26, 118 Matignon 15 mayonnaise 34, 35, 113, 114, 176 Basil Mayonnaise 113 Chipotle Mayonnaise 176 Pastorio’s Mayonnaise 34 Meat Loaf of the Gods 159 Mediterranean Roast Turkey Breast 208 Merry Tomatoes 49 Mexican Style Pork Sandwich 176 Mint Vinegar 12 mirepoix 15, 31 Molten Chocolate Cakes 273 Mornay Sauce 14 290 INDEX Moroccan Spiced Salmon on Lentils 132 Mother Sauces 14 mushrooms 18, 96, 155, 166, 168, 199, 204, 225 portabellas 225 mussels 134 Mustang Winemaker’s Paella 134 N nuts Any Nut Triple Nut Pie 9 pecans 22, 23, 41, 52, 191, 258, 260 pine nuts, roasted 149 walnuts 34, 62, 112, 227, 240, 260, 281 O oatmeal 199, 258 Steel Cut Oatmeal Pilaf 199 Cranberry Oatmeal Pecan Cookies 258 Old South Pulled Pork on a Bun 210 Old-Fashioned Carrot Cake 274 Old-Fashioned Hot Milk Cake 275 Olivada on Focaccia or Baguette 24 omelets 84 Orange Asparagus with Toasted Walnuts 227 Orange Blossom Lentil Barley Soup 91 Orange Vinegar 11 Oyster Soup with Coconut Milk and Chiles 96 P Panzanella, American-Style 5 paella 134 pancakes 72, 73, 83 Parmesan Bowls 50 Parmesan cheese 4, 14, 22, 56, 97, 145, 149, 198, 234-236 Parmesan Crisps 50 pasta 8, 16, 28, 37, 58, 97, 162, 191, 194, 196, 250 Pasta with Ham, Tomato and Parsley 196 Pastorio’s Mayonnaise 34 The Pats’ Overnight Casserole 216 Peach Salsa 179 peaches 178, 179, 263, 271, 276, 277 Pear Ginger Muffins 82 pears 26, 276, 280, 281 peas 38, 101, 144, 168, 194, 234 pecans 22, 23, 41, 52, 191, 258, 260 pepitas 100 Pepper Jelly Cheesecake 51 291 INDEX Peppercorn/Cider Vinegar 12 Pesto Crusted Salmon 139 Phyllo Chicken with Rice, Artichokes, and Cream Sauce 154 pickles 122, 232, 233 pies 262, 265, 279 Piña Colada Sorbet 276 pine nuts, roasted 149 pineapple 30, 274 Poblano Chicken 151 Polenta Rounds with Black-Eyed Peas 53 pork 160, 176, 177, 178, 180, 181, 182, 184, 186, 188, 206, 209, 210, 214, 247 brining 247 butt 176, 206, 209 chops 177, 178, 181, 214 ground 188 loin 182, 215 rib roast 184 shoulder 209 sweet and sour 186 stew 160 tenderloin 180, 209 Pork Chops With Capers 177 Pork Chops With Peach Salsa 178 Pork Loin with Green Peppercorn Sauce 182 Port Risotto (Risotto Del Porto) 3 portabellas 225 Potato Leek Soup with Ham 212 potatoes 31, 90, 230 cooked 117, 206 diced boiled 93 mashed 166, 209, 238 sliced 122 Potatoes Da Delfina 230 Potatoes Noisette 229 pound cake 278 Price-War Red Pepper Sauce 253 prosciutto 23, 106, 162, 194 Provolone, smoked 149 pudding 164, 268 blueberry 268, 269 puréed sauces 16 Q quesadillas 242, 243 Quick and Easy Homemade Sorbet 276 Quinoa Al Salpicon 119 R Rapid Lemon Glaze (or Almost Any Flavor) 30 raspberries 10, 266, 267, 269 cooked 267 fresh 156, 266, 267 Raspberry and Grand Marnier Sauce 267 Real Texas Peach Cobbler 277 292 INDEX Red Wine Rice 197 Refrigerator Dill Pickles 232 ribs 165, 166, 167 rice cooked 2, 33, 195, 197, 199 salad, cold 108 rice flour 258 rice wine 186 risotto 2-4, 33, 197, 199 Risotto with Four Cheeses (Risotto Ai Quattro Formaggi) 4 Roast Chicken Mamou 254 Roast Chicken Marsala 254 Roast Chicken Piccata 254 Roast Chicken Tarragon 254 Roast Pork Tenderlin Chinese Style 180 Roasted Cauliflower 228 Roasted Green Beans with Blue Cheese 240 Roman-Style Veal Cutlets with Sage 162 Romano cheese 106, 225 Rose-Flavored Glasses 278 Rosemary Muffins 80 roux 15-17, 208, 209 blonde 15, 16 white 15, 16 rum sauce 30 Rustic Herbed Tomato Tart with Parmesan Crust 234 SSaffron Orzo 198 salmon 11, 23, 36, 38, 52, 126, 132, 133, 249 Salmon Balls 52 Salmon Whipped Cream Spread 251 salsa 13, 84, 138, 206, 242, 243 sandwiches 123, 162, 176, 244 sauces adobo 88, 156, 176, 225 butter-curry 146 chipotle 156 cold 58 hard 268, 269 marinara 149 modern 16 pan 90 Sauce Robert 14 scallion-ginger-chili sauce 191 sweet-and-sour 187 tartar 128, 129 tangy 211 tequila 140 tomato 16, 132, 133 veal 209 Sauces Made with Whipped Cream 251 sauerkraut 214, 215 Sausage, Spinach and White Bean Soup 97 Savory Tomato Crumble 236 293 INDEX scallopini 147 Scotch Broth 98 Seviche (Ceviche) 38 Shallot/Cider Vinegar 12 sherry 166, 179, 180, 186 shrimp 55, 94, 140, 191 Shrimp Pontchartrain 55 Skewered Bocconcini with Prosciutto 23 skewers 11, 22, 23, 95, 145 Slow Cooker Beef Stew 203 Slow Cooker Tamale Pie 205 Slow-Cooker Choucroute 214 Smoked Salmon and Avocado Rosettes 23 Snowball Cookies 260 Sorrel Soup 99 soufflé 10, 79 Sour Cream Apple Pie 279 Spicy Orange Pork Chops 181 Spicy Pork with Noodles 188 Spicy Pumpkin Soup with Mexican Crema and Toasted Pepitas 100 Spicy Split Pea Soup 101 spinach 97, 106, 121, 124, 143, 149, 190, 223 Spinach and Berries Salad with Dill 121 squash 102, 220 Star Anise-Scented Butternut Squash Soup with Ginger Cream 102 Steel Cut Oatmeal Pilaf 199 Stella-Style New York Ricotta Cheesecake 282 sticky buns 74, 75 Stilton Soup 104 Stocks by Bob 31 Stracatto De Manzo (Braised Beef in Red Wine) 164 Stuffed Dates 56 sugar substitute 72, 114, 282 Sun-Dried Tomato and Red Pepper Dip 58 Sweet & Sour Chicken for the Slow Cooker 213 Sweet Freezer Pickles 233 Sweet Onion, Apple and Cheese Tart 60 swordfish 126 T tapenade 45 tarts 60, 235 Tart Potato Salad 122 Tater Tot Casserole 168 Tequila-Orange Grilled Shrimp 140 Terry’s Best Pancakes 83 Tex-Mex Deviled Eggs 57 Thai Corn Soup 105 Tomato Florentine Soup 106 Tortellini Skewers With Lemon Parmesan Aioli 22 tuna 11, 38, 123, 126, 216, 249 294 INDEX turkey breast 156, 208 brining 248, 249 cream of, soup 8 cooked diced 216 deli-style, appetizers 24, 156 with noodles 188 Tuscan Pork With Red-Pepper Relish 184 Tuscan Tuna Salad 123 Tuscan-Style Steak with Arugula and Parmesan 163 V veal brining 247, 248 chops 36, 158, 171, 248 cutlets 162 sauces 16 stocks 31 Vegetable Tian 237 velouté 16 vinaigrette 28, 108, 119-121, 221 vinegar Anything Infused Vinegar 11 vodka 49 W Walnut Cake with Sautéed Pears and Cinnamon Cream 280 walnuts 34, 62, 112, 227, 240, 260, 281 Warm Brie and Pear Tartlets 23 Warm Figs with Gorgonzola and Pecans 23 Warm Figs with Prosciutto 23 Warm Italian Sausage Salad 124 Warm, Seasoned Potato Chips 24 watermelon 120 wheat bread 67 whipped cream, flavored 251 Wildly Inauthentic Crustless Potato Knishes 238 Wine-Braised Short Ribs 166 Z Ziploc Omelet 84 Zucchini With Gorgonzola 241 Zuni Rolls 156 295 Founded in 1993 by Central Michigan University professor Elliott Parker, the Foodwine mailing list welcomes new members. Here’s Elliott’s description of the list: “FOODWINE is for serious, but not pedantic, discussion of food, beverages, and related concerns. Consider the list as a discussion around a very large table among people who like to discuss food: the talk may become passionate and even off-topic sometimes, but always returns to the topic. People drop in and drop out. And with a group like this, down-home and common food of all areas is as much a part of the conversation as gourmet food.” Not all Foodwine gatherings are virtual. Over the years, many list members have met each other in person, typically to share a meal at gatherings we call foodstocks. Participation in the list carries no obligation. Members are free to simply lurk and observe, contribute to ongoing discussions, or even initiate new ones. If you’re interested in subscribing to the list, simply send a blank e-mail to [email protected].