Too cold for comfort - Alpine Club of Canada

Vol. 20, No. 1
●
Winter 2005
Too cold for
comfort
page 6
Grant winner offers
recommendations for
Niagara Escarpment
Page 8
The Alpine Club of Canada
What’s Inside...
Editorial
Facilities
4 Short Rope
The Alpine Club of Canada
Box 8040, Canmore,
Alberta, Canada T1W 2T8
Phone: (403) 678-3200
Fax: (403) 678-3224
[email protected]
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca
David Toole,
Rod Plasman,
Gord Currie,
Cam Roe,
Peter Muir,
Carl Hannigan,
Bob Sandford,
David Zemrau,
Mike Mortimer,
Peter Fuhrmann,
Bruce Keith,
President
Secretary
Treasurer
VP Activities
VP Access / Environment
VP Facilities
VP Mountain Culture
VP Services
Director, External Relations
Honorary President
Executive Director
Submissions to the Gazette are welcome! The
deadline for the Summer issue of the Gazette
is April 10. If possible, please save your
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[email protected] Otherwise, feel
free to type or handwrite it, making sure it’s double
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with your submission.
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Mountaineering / Climbing
4 Toronto members retrace 1920s
climbs
5 Canadian Mah takes first at first
NACC
6 Too cold for comfort
18 The North Face Leadership Course
summer 2004
22 New systems help share avalanche
information
Environment
21 Fay Hut reconstruction update
Mountain Culture
7 Centennial book seeks submissions
10 Club to celebrate Centennial in
style
16 Building the life that I know
17 Maximize your volunteer time
19 Celebrating Alberta’s Centennial
– mountain style
20 Isaac shares mixed climbing secrets
23 Links
National News
8 Grant winner offers
recommendations for Niagara
Escarpment
14 Encouraging good practice and
corporate responsibility
15 UIAA Ice Climbing Commission
formed
17 Jumbo Update
23 National Office news
24 Centennial Fund Campaign
Awards / Notices / Classified Ads
9 Canadian Avalanche Foundation
fundraising dinners
22 Executive Committee slate
23 Classified Ads
What’s Outside...
Front cover:
Inset:
Rocky Mountain Section member Dave Starkey bundled up against the
cold; photo – ©Richard Berry
Niagara Escarpment; photo – David J. Milne
Corporate Supporters
Associate Members
The ACC thanks the following for their support, and encourages you to consider
them and the advertisers in this newsletter the next time you purchase goods or
services of the type they offer.
The ACC is proud to be associated
with the following organizations:
Corporate Sponsors
Corporate Members
Arc’teryx
Black Diamond Equipment
Dunham
Forty Below
G3 Genuine Guide Gear
GearUp Sport (Canmore, AB)
IBEX Outdoor Clothing
Integral Designs
Katadyn
Leki
Printed on recycled paper
Mammut
Mountain Equipment Coop
Mountain Safety Research
Ortovox Canada
Outdoor Research
Patagonia
Petzl
Therm-a-Rest
Yamnuska (Canmore, AB)
Alberta Sport, Recreation, Parks
and Wildlife Foundation
Association of Canadian Mountain
Guides (ACMG)
Canadian Avalanche Association (CAA)
Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre
Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies
(Banff, AB)
Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
3
Lynn on Mt. Indefatigable in Kananaskis Alberta
Short Rope
BY LYNN
MARTEL, EDITOR
“I
t’s impossible to find a climber who’s
relatively keen to find the time to sit
on town council.”
This statement was recently uttered at
a dinner party in Canmore Alberta, home
to countless recreational, professional and
aspiring climbers, by someone who shall
remain anonymous – not to protect his
good standing in the general community,
but because there are so many of us who
could have easily made the very same
statement.
The fact climbers can become too
singularly focussed and downright selfish
in their alpine pursuits is hardly news.
But neither is the fact that since even
before the Alpine Club of Canada was
formed nearly 100 years ago, climbers
have been among those who’ve possessed
the foresight and selflessness to become
involved in the preservation of not only
their mountain environments, but their
home communities as well.
And with increasing numbers of
communities across the country dealing
with access, land development and
decreasing wilderness and wildlife habitat
issues, mountain enthusiasts have a
vested interest in becoming informed and
involved in working toward solutions that
will preserve as much of those wild spaces
as possible for generations to come.
In joining the ACC, each of us accepts
a level of personal responsibility to
follow the objects of the Club, including
preservation of the natural environment
and educating Canadians about their
mountain heritage.
Fortunately, across the country ACC
members are contributing to Canada’s
climbing heritage with more than first
ascents, on sights and contortionist M
moves.
In this issue you’ll read how
mountaineering organizations and
outdoor businesses around the world,
4
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
including the ACC, are proudly adopting
the objectives and guidelines behind the
UIAA’s Environmental Label.
You’ll read how one climber used
ACC grant money to study the effects
of rock climbing activity on cliff habitat,
and about another’s plans to celebrate
his province’s centennial not only by
climbing and skiing in the Alberta
Rockies, but also by creating a learning
program about those mountains for
schoolchildren.
In our last issue (Fall 2004) you
read about Melting Mountains and
the Peak Challenge – a rally call aimed
directly toward the mountain recreation
community to cut one tonne, or 20 per
cent of their greenhouse gas emissions
annually, spearheaded by two climbers
and skiers.
Canadians are among the most
blessed people in the world when it
comes to the vastness and variety of
spectacular mountain wilderness available
to them for recreation and exploration.
Canadians are also, not so proudly, among
the biggest users and wasters of energy in
the world.
But just as our founders made sure
Canadians had their own alpine club, we
can help ensure the preservation of our
alpine wilderness.
Like climbing, we need only take
one small step at a time. Switching to
more efficient light bulbs. Car-pooling
to trailheads. Washing and reusing
sturdy zip-lock bags. Saying ‘no’ to
disposable coffee cups and using ACC
mugs every day. At Club gatherings,
including trademark Canadian midwinter barbecues, encouraging guests
to BYO plate and fork instead of using
disposables – and rediscovering the
camaraderie of group dish washing
readily shared in our backcountry huts.
As our Club approaches its
Centennial, instead of just celebrating the
past century, let’s make a bigger effort to
give our members something to celebrate
in another hundred years.
Toronto members retrace 1920s climbs
BY
PAUL GEDDES
I
n August 2004, I was part of a four-person climbing trip which retraced two first
ascents led by Allen Carpé and Rollin Chamberlin in 1924 and 1927.
Our team was successful in climbing both Mount Sir Wilfred Laurier (Titan),
3523 metres and Mount Sir John Abbot (Kiwa) 3215 m, the two highest peaks in the
Premier Range of the Cariboo Mountains of British Columbia. We camped at 2623 m
on a remote buttress above the Kiwa Glacier near Carpé’s 1927 bivouac site. We believe
that we were the fifth party to ever camp in the Kiwa Nevé.
We made the third ascent of Carpé/Chamberlin/Withers’ 1924 first ascent route
up the ice slopes of the northwest face of Titan. In their cairn just below the summit
we located the summit register from this first ascent. The second ascent of this peak
was made by the same route in 1925. Thus, there was a second register entry by the
famous Canadian mountaineers Don and Phyllis Munday. We removed this historical
document from the mountain and donated it to the Alpine Club of Canada’s collection
at the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies in Banff, Alberta.
We also climbed Kiwa, making the fifth recorded ascent of the mountain. We
followed the Carpé/Chamberlin first ascent route, which ascends a heavily glaciated east
facing snow and ice climb, with a steep rock pyramid at the summit.
We enjoyed 10 days of perfect weather and were able to climb five other summits
before flying out. Additional details, maps and photos of this expedition are available on
line at the Toronto Section’s website: www.climbers.org
From 2623 m camp towards summit of Mt. Sir Wilfred Laurier 3523 m
PHOTO:
PAUL GEDDES
Canadian Mah takes first at first NACC
BY LYNN
V
MARTEL
ancouver teen powerhouse JJ Mah
claimed first place in the Youth
B Male category of the Difficulty
event at the first ever Campeanato
Norteamericano de Escalada – North
American Climbing Championships,
which ran from Nov. 24 to 28 in Mexico
City.
About 100 of the best competitive
climbers from Canada, the U.S. and
Mexico, ranging in age from 9 to 27,
participated in the event.
Also in the Difficulty competition,
Calgary’s Vicki Weldon placed fourth in
the Open Female category. In the Open
Male group, Mike Doyle came in second,
with Sean McColl placing fourth, Jamie
Chong seventh and Jason Hollowach
eighth.
In the Spiderkids A Female group at
the same event, Alexandrea Bigras-Masse
came fifth ahead of Gabrielle BigrasMasse in seventh. In Spiderkids A Male,
Sam Drury-Melnyk finished fourth
ahead of Evan Waugh in fifth.
In the Bouldering competition’s
Spiderkids A Female category, Gabrielle
Bigras-Masse placed fourth, while in the
corresponding Male group Evan Waugh
placed sixth.
In Adult Women category, Vicki
Weldon finished third, while in the Adult
Open Male category Jamie Chong placed
third ahead of Sean McColl in fourth,
Jody Miall in sixth and Jason Hollowach
in ninth place.
In the Open Women’s category of
the Speed competition, Vicki Weldon
finished fourth, while Jason Hollowach
placed fourth in the Open Male group.
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• Casual mountain fare inspired by the Canadian Rockies &
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• The Cornice Deck for seasonal outdoor dining, BBQ & drinks
• All day breakfast!
• A great selection of salads, appies, lunch, dinner & desserts
complemented by local beers, wines & spirits
• Owned & operated by climbers who are as passionate about
food as they are about climbing
**10% discount for ACC members with membership card**
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
5
Too cold for comfort
BY
OLA DUNIN-BELL
L
ast winter, my daughter called me
from the eastern Ontario town
where she attends university to ask
for advice regarding a friend. It sounded
as though this fellow had been enjoying
some down time at the pub after a full
week of classes, when later that night,
warmed by the good cheer of his fellow
students (and a pint or two), he thought
nothing of donning his baseball cap
and jacket for the 15-minute walk back
to his residence. Not, at least, until the
next morning when he discovered the
tops of his ears to be purple, swollen,
blistered and acutely painful. Although
he was lucky and will likely get away with
nothing more than minor scarring, this
young man had all the risk factors for a
more severe cold injury.
The biggest factors in heat loss are
the temperature of the environment
and the duration of a person’s exposure.
Wind chill and contact with water, either
by immersion or through wet clothes,
will increase the speed of heat loss.
Although chronic health conditions such
as diabetes, atherosclerosis and certain
drugs put a person at greater risk for cold
injury, it is often healthy people involved
in outdoor winter sports who suffer
damage, possibly due to fatigue, often due
to inappropriate clothing or equipment or
because of unexpected
weather changes.
When combined
with other injuries,
such as from a fall
or car accident,
the risk of
hypothermia or
freezing is even
greater and
recovery less
certain.
Frostbite is most often seen on
the extremities, starting at fingers and
toes, but also the nose, ears and over
the cheekbones. When your fingers
are feeling cold you should have a look
at them and make sure you don’t need
to come in out of the cold. A buddy is
indispensable for keeping an eye on body
parts you can’t see without a mirror, by
regularly checking for white patches on
exposed skin. Frostbite ranges from the
mildest form, frostnip, where initially the
skin appears pale but with re-warming
pinks up nicely and leaves no residual
changes.
As one moves along the spectrum, the
freezing progresses deeper through the
skin layers resulting in death of cells, first
at the surface, then with the most serious
injuries through muscle to bone. In more
superficial situations, the skin initially
appears white and with re-warming some
redness appears, due to inflammation
around the pale centre. As frostbite
becomes more severe, over the next day
the area will develop blisters filled with
either clear or milky fluid. Deeper still,
the blisters will be dark, containing
blood and turning to a black crust over
a period of two weeks. If deeper tissues
are destroyed, there will be gradual
demarcation of the dead tissue over a
couple of months, during which time the
area needs to be protected to minimize
the amount which will eventually have to
be removed.
Knowing how deep the freezing has
penetrated will not always be immediately
evident, and in fact, all freezing injuries
are initially treated the same. Probably
the most important thing to do when
a freezing injury is recognized is not to
warm it unless you are absolutely certain
that there is no risk of it becoming
cold again. This often means delaying
re-warming until you have reached
permanent shelter such as a lodge or
hospital, since thawing then refreezing
can dramatically worsen the damage.
Rubbing with snow should never be
done. Handle the injured area gently.
Once a safe, warm location
is reached, re-warming
should be done by
immersing
the frozen
part, if possible, in water warmed to 39°
to 40° C for about half an hour. It is
important to warm quickly, but water any
hotter produces damage. Some people
recommend drainage of the blisters if the
fluid is milky, as this is thought to contain
enzymes, which may cause further
irritation. Most would recommend,
however, to avoid infection by leaving the
blisters alone and applying aloe vera if
available, or otherwise an ointment such
as Polysporin®. Ibuprofen (such as Advil®
or Motrin®) is helpful for the discomfort
and may also play a role in decreasing
inflammation and preventing further
cell injury. Medical attention should be
sought for frostbite showing anything
more than clear blisters.
While working as an intern at a
downtown Toronto hospital, I learned
an important lesson regarding the cold
– that no one is dead until they are warm
and dead. Early one morning a homeless
man was brought into the emergency
department, cold, pulse-less and with
no signs of breathing; to all appearances
dead. In severe hypothermia, defined as
having a core temperature lower than 30°
to 28° C, vital signs may be either very
weak or undetectable. Using techniques
available in the hospital, we were able to
re-warm him and, with defibrillation and
some other medical magic, he eventually
recovered, though minus most of his toes.
Not everyone survives, unfortunately.
According to Statistics Canada, from
1992 to 1996 there were 411 deaths from
hypothermia and other cold injuries.
Mild hypothermia includes those
victims whose body temperature has
fallen below 35° C but is still above 32° C.
They feel cold, may have some difficulty
with fine and even gross co-ordination
and with the lower temperature become
confused. Most importantly, however,
they are still capable of shivering. This
involuntary reflex is their best tool for
generating body heat. In fact, the optimal
treatment for this degree of hypothermia
is to cover the patient with dry insulation,
preferably in a warm environment,
provide them with fluids and nutrition
Lindsay Anderson shortrope belay during her full
ski guides exam. Hallum Creek, Monashees.
PHOTO: JOHN DERICK
Centennial book seeks submissions
and allow them to re-warm themselves
at about .5° to 1° C per hour. Although
warm drinks seem comforting, they
actually transfer very little heat and it is
more important to ensure that calories
are delivered to fuel the shivering. A
room temperature Coke® would be of
more value than a hot cup of black tea. If
the patient is sitting or lying down, don’t
forget to make sure the insulating layer
goes underneath them as well.
As the core temperature falls below
32° C, shivering, along with the body’s
other responses to cold, decreases then
stops and the victim will either be very
confused or unconscious. These people
must be handled carefully, as between
28° and 30° C; the heart is very sensitive
to any stimulation and may develop
abnormal life threatening rhythms. Active
re-warming, including heating pads, hot
water bottles, warm water immersion
and heated, humidified air for breathing
are necessary to raise the person’s core
temperature. Care must be taken not
to burn the patient’s skin with over
enthusiastic heating. Initially, as warming
begins, the victim’s temperature may drop
even further as the blood vessels in the
limbs open up, shunting cold blood back
to the heart. This ‘re-warming shock’ can
appear as fainting in a patient who was
becoming more alert or may even result
in cardiac arrest. Close monitoring during
this stage is a must.
Being prepared and minimizing the
risks are clearly the best ways to avoid
cold injury. Dressing appropriately, taking
along extra food and drink and checking
weather reports before heading out for
a day outdoors sounds like common
sense, but as we all know, common sense
is not common. A mature and cautious
approach to the use of alcohol during
recreational winter outdoor activities
would also lead to fewer cold injuries
and deaths. On particularly cold days,
checking for early frostbite and knowing
when to come indoors can save fingers
and toes.
The cold should not keep us from
enjoying all that winter conditions have
to offer, as long as we give it the healthy
respect it deserves.
Ola Dunin-Bell is a physician and
member of the Wilderness Medical Society.
T
o celebrate the Alpine Club of Canada’s (ACC) Centennial in 2006, the
ACC’s Manitoba Section is compiling a book of stories documenting the
history of Manitobans in the mountains. We invite ACC members to submit
an alpine adventure story for publication.
You may submit a maximum of 10
Here are the specifications for your
photos or illustrations to accompany
story:
your story. If you are sending digital
1) Subject must be about
photos or scans, they must be a
mountaineering, ski mountaineering,
minimum of 300 dpi, preferably in
rock climbing, ice climbing,
JPEG format. If you are sending photos
scrambling and/or hiking;
or slides, please include a self-addressed,
2) Person(s) in the story must have been
stamped envelope so that we can return
a Manitoban at some point in time,
them to you.
preferably a present or past ACC
The deadline for submissions is Sept.
member;
15, 2005. The target publication date is
3) Maximum 5000 words;
Feb. 2006.
4) Must be submitted in digital format
Please send all submissions to:
(i.e. a Microsoft Word document, or
Christine Mazur
as text in e-mail);
838 Sherburn Street
5) Must be accompanied by a 50 to
Winnipeg, MB R3G 2L4
100-word biography of the author;
e-mail: [email protected]
6) If the story has been previously
published, please indicate so in your
phone: (204) 774-8762
submission so that we might credit
The Alpine Club Centennial Book
the copyright owner.
Committee looks forward to receiving
your stories!
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Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
7
Grant winner offers recommendations for Niagara Escarpment
BY
KATHRYN KUNTZ
A
ll over the world, cliffs are
recognized as sites that harbour
ancient forests, endangered biota
and tremendous biodiversity. Native
vegetation continues to thrive on cliffs,
even in landscapes otherwise greatly
disturbed by humans. While evidence
shows that humans directly influence 83
per cent of the planet’s land surface, cliffs
represent one of the last of the wild places
on Earth.
Knowing the value of cliffs, park
managers are being challenged by the
recent expansion of recreational rock
climbing. They don’t know the potential
impact of the sport on one of the last
natural habitats on the planet. Research
into the impacts of rock climbing is
therefore essential to managers seeking
to develop policy that will allow for
continued recreation on cliffs and to
climbers wanting to preserve these wild
places.
In southern Ontario, the majority
of rock climbing occurs on the Niagara
Escarpment – a series of dolomitic
limestone outcrops that extend from the
Bruce Peninsula to the Niagara region
with approximately 150 kilometres
of exposed, vertical cliff line. These
outcrops are owned by a variety of public
conservation authorities and private
landowners who decide whether climbers
have access to their cliffs for recreation.
Prior research on impacts of climbing
on Escarpment vegetation concluded that
rock climbers significantly reduce the
density and diversity of cliff vegetation.
Recommendations from these
studies included banning new climbing
route development to prevent further
disturbance to cliff vegetation. However,
three problems with experimental design
limit the utility of results generated from
prior studies to predict impacts of new
route development:
● Only traditional climbing routes rated
5.7 to 5.9 in difficulty were sampled
– yet this difficulty category represents
less than five per cent of the growth in
new route development;
Both photos are of the Lion’s Head near Tobermory
on the northern tip of the Niagara Escarpment.
The climb is called Nimbus; it is rated (10 a) and
starts about 30 m off the scree on a hanging
belay.
PHOTOS: DAVID J. MILNE
8
Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
●
Sampling was limited to cliffs in the
densely populated Milton region,
the results of which may not be true
Escarpment-wide;
● No quantification of differences in
numbers or sizes of cliff face features
(ledges, pockets or crevices) were
undertaken between control plots
and climbed plots – even though the
density and diversity of plants growing
on cliff faces is intrinsically linked to
differences in cliff face microhabitat.
Because prior studies did not quantify
the underlying influence of microsite
heterogeneity to differences in vegetation
between climbed and unclimbed cliffs,
these studies cannot show that reductions
in vegetation on climbed cliffs are directly
a result of climbing disturbance. Less
vegetation on climbed cliffs could result
from climbers selecting areas of the cliff
face that naturally support less vegetation
because of microhabitat constraints
– where there is a lack of space for soil or
no rooting possibilities exist.
With the aid of funding from the
Alpine Club of Canada (ACC), I
examined the relative influence of preexisting microhabitat conditions versus
direct rock climbing disturbance to the
cliff face vegetation communities of the
Niagara Escarpment. I sampled over 150
plots across 20 cliff faces, both climbed
and unclimbed, in the Milton, Beaver
Valley and Bruce Peninsula regions.
Climbing routes sampled were rated as
5.10 to 5.14 sport climbs, reflecting the
direction of new route development on
the Escarpment.
Results revealed that certain
microhabitat conditions are related to
increases in the richness and abundance
of cliff face vegetation, and that rock
climbers select for different microhabitat
conditions when establishing climbing
routes. No decreases in vascular plant,
moss or lichen species richness or
abundance on climbed cliff faces
were attributable to direct climbing
disturbance. Simply put, climbers were
selecting the areas of the cliff face lacking
large ledges and these lines naturally
supported less vegetation. This is the good
news.
Unfortunately some of the bad news
from prior research is still true. Climbers
must access cliff faces from either the
plateau above or the talus below, and this
is where their footprint is strongly felt.
Severe trampling impacts are present
in both the talus and on the plateau of
climbed cliffs and six to eight times more
signs of physical damage are present on
cedar trees growing on climbed cliffs
when compared with unclimbed cliffs.
Management recommendations regarding
climbing must therefore address these
issues.
The following management
recommendations provide land
managers and climbers with a set of
rules that would limit disturbance to cliff
vegetation, while allowing new route
development to continue:
Cliff face
●
●
New climbing route development
is limited to sport climbing routes
with difficulty levels of 5.10 and
above. Allowing the development of
climbing routes rated easier than 5.10
is not recommended as no research
has been done to determine whether
these routes overlap with cliff face
microsites suitable for vegetation
establishment.
Bolts are placed to direct climbers
away from cliff face cedars.
Plateau
●
●
●
Hiking trails are managed to meet
the needs of all user groups and
eliminate the need for climbers to
create additional cliff-edge access
trails. Rappelling stations are created
at or near existing lookouts to allow
climbers access to the talus while
directing climber traffic away from
sensitive cliff edge vegetation.
A ‘no top-roping’ policy is created in
areas of new route establishment.
Permanent anchors are installed below
the cliff edge to allow climbers to
lower back to the talus and retrieve
their gear upon completing an ascent
of a climbing route. These anchors
are placed well below the cliff edge
to prevent climbers from using the
cliff edge to complete their ascent and
dissuade climbers from setting up
top-ropes from above.
Talus
●
New talus trails only cut into the cliff
base where necessary to access new
climbing routes.
It is recommended that this new
routing policy be consistent across the
entire Niagara Escarpment. Having
management plans in place for all cliffs
(even those currently unclimbed)
will result in less confusion for
the climbing community. It is
also recommended that a policy is
created requiring climbers to submit
a proposal for each new route that
is established on cliffs owned by
parks and conservation areas. These
proposals will provide managers with
information about where new route
development is concentrated and
permit managers to accept or reject
proposals to balance new routing
opportunities between current and
future generations of climbers.
Kathryn Kuntz completed her
Master of Science in Botany working
with the Cliff Ecology Research Group
at the University of Guelph, Ontario
with assistance from the ACC’s
Environment Fund. Her thesis, The
relative influence of microhabitat
constraints and rock climbing
disturbance to cliff face vegetation
communities, is available at the
McLaughlin Library at the University
of Guelph.
Canadian Avalanche Foundation fundraising dinners
D
on’t miss the Canadian Avalanche Foundation (CAF) fundraising dinners
and silent auctions on February 24 at the Calgary Zoo’s Safari Lodge in
Calgary, AB and at the Vancouver Rowing Club in Vancouver, B.C. on
February 25.
Canadian Avalanche Foundation director Justin Trudeau and CAF president
Chris Stethem will host the events. Guest speaker, Association of Canadian
Mountain Guides internationally certified guide Scott Flavelle’s presentation, titled
The Canadians behind the Eco-Challenge, will depict the role of Canadian guides in
staging the popular international adventure race series.
Silent auction items at the Vancouver event include a
vintage Cadillac
donated by a CAF supporter.
Tickets are $150 each supported by a $75 tax
receipt. For tickets or more information contact
(403) 678-1235 or [email protected]
Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
9
This is the first of four features planned to keep Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) members up to date and excited about the multitude of events,
camps, activities, publications and new facility construction underway in celebration of the Club’s Centennial in 2006. This issue outlines various
celebrations being organized, while each of the following three Gazette issues will describe upcoming Mountain Adventure, Mountain Culture
and Facility Centennial initiatives. —Ed.
Club to celebrate Centennial in style
BY
AMY KRAUSE
I
n 1902, Arthur Oliver Wheeler asked
his friend and climbing companion,
Charles Fay, for his opinion about
creating a Canadian Alpine Club – after
the venerable tradition of existing clubs in
Britain and the U.S. Fay, then president
of the Appalachian Mountain Club,
suggested forming a Canadian section of
the American club and renaming it the
Alpine Club of North America. Wheeler
wrote to the Manitoba Free Press
newspaper seeking support for the idea
and received an unlikely response.
“Shortly after, I received a copy of that
paper containing a marked article signed,
“M.T.” Amongst other matters it took me
roundly to task, declaimed my action as
unpatriotic, chided my lack of imperialism
and generally gave me a pen lashing in
words sharper than a sword. This was ‘right
into my mitt’ and I promptly replied: ‘Dear
Sir, you are just the person I want to find.
If you will give me your assistance and can
open the columns of the Free Press to our
support, I shall be very glad to go ahead on
patriotic and imperial lines.’ My ‘Dear Sir’
turned out to be that literary and cultured
lady, Mrs. H.J. [Elizabeth] Parker of
Winnipeg, on the staff of the Manitoba Free
Press…”
Together, Wheeler and Parker
began campaigning for a Canadian
alpine club. They wrote impassioned
letters to newspapers across the country
challenging scepticism and indifference
and gathering supporters along the way.
In 1906, the Alpine Club of Canada
(ACC) was born – halfway between east
and west – in Winnipeg, Manitoba. Not
insignificantly, it was also home to the
Manitoba Free Press who first argued that
Canada’s indifference to the grandeur of
its mountains was ignoble, and that the
quiet tenacity, studied exploration and
adventurous spirit of mountaineering
should be cultivated in Canadians and on
Canadian peaks.
Throughout the decades since,
the ACC has earned its place as a
respected member of the international
10 Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
Founding meeting of the Alpine Club of Canada March 27, 1906 – Winnipeg, Manitoba
Arthur O. Wheeler, 3rd from left; Elizabeth Parker, 4th from left
PHOTO: COURTESY THE WHYTE MUSEUM OF THE CANADIAN ROCKIES IMAGE #V14-ACOP 369
mountaineering community. This year,
on the eve of the Club’s Centennial in
2006, members from Eastern Canada to
Vancouver Island are planning activities
and events to celebrate this momentous
occasion.
In Toronto, section members are
planning a reunion for the weekend of
Sept. 1, 2006 at Bon Echo’s lakeside cliffs
to celebrate not only the Centennial,
but also the section’s 50t anniversary.
As well, Toronto members are planning
an expanded hardcover version of Bon
Echo’s well-known climbing guidebook.
(see Fall 2004 Gazette, Vol.19, No.3).
In Winnipeg, the Manitoba and Saint
Boniface sections will host the ACC
Executive Meetings March 25 and 26,
2006.
“The last time the Executive met
in Winnipeg was in 1906,” reports
Manitoba Section representative Simon
Statekewich. “Once every hundred years
is fairly manageable.”
Like Toronto, Manitoba Section
members are also compiling a book
(see page 7), a collection of profiles on
Manitoba climbers who are arguably a
dedicated lot!
In Calgary, a book of competition
photos is being considered but, as Calgary
Section member Ken Baxter explains,
it’s not just the photos that are worth
celebrating.
“Some of the trophies are so old, they
are treasures themselves,” Baxter says.
“It would be great to include photos of
the trophies with details about when and
where they came from.”
Historic photos will also be shared
among Edmonton Section members
as part of a combined story and photo
competition and wine and cheese social.
But Edmonton won’t be the only section
celebrating the Centennial with good
food and a beverage or two.
“Regional dinners are being planned
for huts all over the country,” says Fern
Hietkamp, Centennial Committee
Section Representative. “In Vancouver,
the local section is planning an evening at
[historic] Hollyburn Lodge on Cypress
Mountain.”
Not to be outdone, the Rocky
Mountain Section is also planning a party
– a big party!
“It will be an event in which everyone,
members and non-members, climbers
and non-climbers alike can participate,”
says Ron Scholtz, RMS representative.
“We want it to be an opportunity for
the community at large to find out
more about the ACC and share in the
Centennial.”
Hietkamp believes the Centennial
could have long-term impact on the
Club’s 18 sections and their communities.
“This is a huge opportunity to build
toward the future, get new people
involved, and generate excitement about
what we do,” she says. “The Centennial is
an invitation to build for the future, while
we celebrate the past.”
While celebrating the past is one way
to capture the attention and admiration
of new members, so too is planning
for the future, as the Vancouver Island
Section may prove.
“The Arrowsmith proposal is
a very exciting project for a very
important mountain,” explains section
representative, Gerta Smythe.
The Arrowsmith Massif provides
habitat for 220 avian species, 100,000
waterbirds and every upland mammal
species on the Island. It also sources
watersheds for five species of salmon.
The V.I. Section would like to celebrate
the Centennial by working to have
the Arrowsmith Massif designated a
protected park.
While environmental stewardship is
a vital part of the ACC’s mandate, the
Montreal Section is choosing to honour
a lesser-known mandate by hosting an
exhibition of original artwork by section
members Sheila Eamer, Celestine Segers
and Ed Potworowski.
“Traditionally, Montreal Section
members have not confined their
mountaineering activities to the Rockies,
but have regularly visited the Laurentians
and the Adirondacks, as well as the Alps
and the Andes,” says Potworowski. “We
felt that it would be appropriate to carry
on with this tradition in the paintings we
chose to exhibit.”
The works will be displayed at the
Montreal Mountain Equipment Co-op
Nov. 28 through Dec. 13, 2006.
Montreal Section members are also
considering designating a charitable
mountain, which members would climb
with sponsorship from friends, family
Summer Job Opportunities
The ACC is looking for four responsible individuals to work as full
time Custodians at the Kokanee Glacier Cabin (early June to
late October) and at the Conrad Kain Hut in Bugaboo
Provincial Park (mid June to mid September).
In order to qualify, you must be:
✔
✔
✔
✔
✔
Honest and reliable
Customer service oriented
Mechanically minded and handy with tools
Experienced in backcountry travel
Physically fit and healthy
Applicants must also have valid standard first aid
and CPR prior to beginning work. The jobs are
scheduled on a week-on, weekoff basis. During the week-off,
subsidized staff accommodation
is available at the Clubhouse
property in Canmore. Custodians
will be paid $82.50 per day (based
on a 7.5 hour work day), plus a car
allowance, plus a bonus, if earned. The
deadline for applications is April 15, 2005.
Please submit your resume to:
Carole Perkins, Facilities Administration Manager
[email protected]
Box 8040, Canmore, Alberta T1W 2T8 OR fax: (403) 678-3224
and business associates, with funds
raised going toward children’s charities
and others such as the Canadian Cystic
Fibrosis Foundation or Muscular
Dystrophy Canada.
Celebrations marking the Club’s
Centennial aren’t limited to the
sections’ efforts however. Canada Post
is considering a proposal for an ACC
Centennial stamp, the 2006 Annual
General Meeting is scheduled to take
place at Rogers Pass, British Columbia,
and the General Assembly of the
International Mountaineering and
Climbing Federation (UIAA) is planned
to happen in October 2006 in Banff,
Alberta.
“This is a very good alpine club in
a young country,” says Mike Mortimer,
Director of External Relations for the
ACC and Chair of the Centennial
Committee.
“The Alpine Club of Canada has been
teaching mountain craft and fostering
world-class mountaineering and climbing
for almost a hundred years now. It is
really exciting to see everything coming
together for 2006!”
If you would like to participate in the ACC Centennial, contact Mike Mortimer
at [email protected] regarding national events, and your Section Representative
for section events. In the coming months related information will become available at
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca/centennial
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Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
11
Join Us for a Mountain
Jasper Rock Review
11,000’ Peak Baggi
Date: Feb. 27 - March 4 Cost: $995 + GST
Staff: Sylvia Forest, Dana Foster, Marg Rees
Date: July 16 - 20
Cost: $995 + GST
Staff: Peter Amann, Sylvia Forest, Zac Robinson
Date: July 29 – Aug. 6 C
Staff: J. Gudjonson, B. La
This ski camp provides an opportunity for women to
gain mountaineering & leadership experience. Glorious
Rogers Pass locations, accessed from the comforts of
the Wheeler & Asulkan Huts, have been chosen as our
destination this year. The terrain will be excellent & the
skiing phenomenal!
Kick your summer off by learning or reviewing all of the
basics for multi-pitch climbing & rappelling, short roping
& basic rock rescue. We will spend 4 days climbing &
learning on 5.5 to 5.7 limestone & quartzite.
During this week of peak bag
summits will be attempted: M
Woolley and Diadem. All of th
travel and steep snow and ice
First Summits
U25: Canmore Cla
Fairy Meadow Ski Extravaganza
Date: June 30 - July 4 Cost: $850 + GST
Staff: Peter Amann, Diane Schon
Date: August 6 - 12
Staff: Lars Andrews
This hut-based camp on the Wapta Icefields will cater
to members looking to learn or refresh skills in: terrain
evaluation, route selection, glacier travel and navigation,
crevasse rescue systems and more.
16-25 year olds will learn and
mountaineering skills. The we
sport climbing from the Canm
mountaineering out of the Ne
The Full Wapta Traverse
55+ Trekking and
Date: July 9 - 16
Cost: $1350 + GST
Staff: Aaron Beardmore, Simon Statkewich
Date: August 7 - 13
C
Staff: Ferdl Taxbock, Dav
Learn about glacier travel and summer mountaineering
on this incredible journey across the Wapta Icefield. We
will stay in four different ACC huts, and ascents will be
attempted on several peaks.
This camp is for young-at-hea
for easy-to-moderate mounta
trekking options. Look forwar
the Elizabeth Parker Hut and t
Mt. Sir Alexander Climbing Camp
Mt. Robson & Jas
Date: July 15 - 23
Cost: $2895 + GST
Staff: Helen Sovdat, Tim Haggarty, Geoff Ruttan
Date: August 12 - 20 C
Staff: Roger Laurilla, Pat
North-west of Mt. Robson, the mountains in Kakwa
Provincial Park comprise the last group of high peaks in
the Canadian Rockies. Don’t miss this rare opportunity to
climb in this remote, rugged and spectacular area.
The goal for this camp is to cli
historic “Kain Face” route on M
conditions permit, we will also
and Geraldine via beautiful fif
Heart of the Rockies
Rockies Panoram
Date: July 16 - 23
Cost: $1650 + GST
Staff: T. Craig, P.Jerome, D.Galaxidas
Date: August 13 - 20 C
Staff: Peter Fuhrmann, F
This trip will involve glacier travel, rock climbing, steep
snow & ice, and spectacular scenery. From the Neil Colgan
and Abbot Huts, the group will attempt Mts. Little, Bowlen,
Allen, Fay, Victoria and/or Lefroy.
This camp is aimed at aspiring
who want to explore the hear
Legendary story-teller, Peter F
entertain you at the Bow, Eliza
Premier Range Climbing Camp
In the Footsteps
Date: July 22 - 30
Cost: $2195 + GST
Staff: Dave Smith, Shaun King
Date: August 19 - 27
Staff: Lars Andrews, Rob
The Premier Range in the Cariboos boasts extensive
glaciation & several peaks over 10,800’, including Mt. Sir
Wilfred Laurier. Helicopter access will allow us maximum
climbing time and some luxuries in camp.
The objectives for the week in
first ascents: the Kain route on
Park, the Kain route on Bugab
of Mt. Edith Cavell in Jasper.
Women’s Camp
Southern Great D
Women’s Ski Camp
Date: March 19 - 26
Cost: $1895 + GST
Staff: P. Baird, T. Styles, J. Derick, V. Meagher
Join us on our annual journey to one of the greatest
backcountry ski destinations in North America – the Bill
Putnam Hut at Fairy Meadow. Great food, great people,
peak bagging and bottomless powder are to be expected.
Mystery Creek Ski Camps
Week 1 Date: March 25 - April 2
Staff: L. Andrews, T. and L. Palechuk, R. Andrews
Week 2 Date: April 1 - 9
Staff: H. Sovdat, T. Styles, D. Dornian, P.
Roozendaal
Cost: $1895 + GST
Our 2005 tent-based ski camp will be held in this littleknown area which boasts a deep snowpack, varied terrain,
& mild weather. With access by helicopter, we will sleep in
mountain tents, but will have the convenience of big tents
in which to dry gear, warm up, & eat sumptuous meals.
Coast Steep Couloirs
Date: April 17 -23
Cost: $2995 + GST
Staff: Lars Andrews, Mark Mallet, Dave Dornian
From the comforts of the McGillvray Lodge, you will be
introduced to the assessment and techniques involved
in successfully skiing extreme lines. You will climb, survey,
and, if the situation is right, make ski descents of some of
the classic “steeps” in the area.
Clemenceau to Columbia
Icefields Traverse
Date: April 29 – May 7 Cost: $1795 + GST
Staff: Conrad Janzen, Bonnie Hamilton
Following ski plane access, the week will involve hard
physical effort & unforgettable rewards as we wind our
way through the most outstanding glaciated geography
in the Canadian Rockies. If time & conditions allow,
ascents of Mt. Clemenceau & Columbia will be
attempted.
C
Date: July 24 - 29
Cost: $995 + GST
Staff: A. Andrews, J. Olson, D. Morrissette
Date: Aug. 26 – Sept. 4 C
Staff: Jim Gudjonson, Do
The intent of this mountaineering camp is to provide
opportunities for women to work on leading skills & gain
mountaineering experience. The camp will be based out
of the Bow & Peyto Huts on the stunning Wapta Icefield.
Join Jim & Doug as they journ
Icefield in Jasper to the Wapta
& Freshfield Icefields. This cam
look at what “remote” & “spect
Peak Weekend – Rogers Pass
Date: July 28 - August 1 Cost: $850 + GST
photo by Shane Munro
Staff: Ken Wylie, Masten Brols
The Hermit Range at Rogers Pass is a spectacular mountaineering destination. The weekend w
bagging involving glacier travel and low-5th class rock climbing on solid quartzite.
n Adventure
ing
2005 General Mountaineering Camp
Cost: $1795 + GST
awrence, M. Kellerhals
Dates: July 2 to August 13, 2005 (six one-week camps)
Cost: $1295 (one week) + GST $1195 (additional weeks) + GST
ging, four 11,000 foot
Mts. Athabasca, Andromeda,
he routes involve glacier
e climbing.
This year’s camp is located in the Moby Dick area of the Battle Range in the Selkirk Mountains. From our basecamp at
Houston Lake (2042m/6900’), we will have quick access to over a dozen peaks with varying degrees of difficulty, ranging
in height from 2790m (9207’) to 3220m (10,626’). Possible ascents include: Pequod, Moby Dick, Proteus, Harpoon, Claggart,
Billy Budd, Benito Cereno, Forecastle, Typee, Escalade, White Jacket, Ahab and Outrigger. A vast majority of the landscape is
granite and participants will be able to enjoy a variety of objectives from scrambles to technical rock. There are also plenty
of snow and ice routes to choose from.
The camp operates on a seven day, Saturday to Saturday basis. Attendance fees (per week) will cover tent
accommodation, guiding and instruction in all disciplines, sumptuous meals, helicopter flight in and out
and group climbing equipment (other than personal gear).
assics / Ten Peaks
Cost: $995 + GST
improve rock climbing &
eek will be split between
more Clubhouse &
eil Colgan Hut.
d Climbing Camp
Cost: $1395 + GST
vid Toole
You Won’t Forget!
Mexican Volcanoes
art climbers who are looking
aineering routes with daily
rd to classic day trips from
the Hostel at Lake Louise.
Dates: Nov. 3-13, 2005 Cost: $2595 (no GST)
Staff: Sylvia Forest,
David Toole, Peter Muir
sper Climbing
Cost: $2995 + GST
rick Baird, Deryl Kelly
imb the celebrated and
Mt. Robson. If time and
o attempt Mts. Edith Cavell
fth class quartzite ridges.
ma
photo by Roger Laurilla
Cost: $1450 + GST
Felix Camire
g mountaineers & those
rt of the Canadian Rockies.
Fuhrmann will guide &
abeth Parker & Abbot Huts.
of Conrad Kain
Cost: $2395 + GST
Owens, Brad Harrison
nclude three of Conrad Kain’s
n Mt. Louis in Banff National
boo Spire, and the east ridge
Divide Traverse
Cost: $1995 + GST
oug Nelson
ney from the Columbia
a Icefield in Banff via the Lyell
mp will give you an in-depth
tacular” really mean.
sma
will be packed with peak
photo by Daniel Dufresne
an ACC tradition since 1906.
Find Out More
For more information on each camp,
including their levels of difficulty,
please visit our website at
www.AlpineClubofCanada.ca
and follow the links to Mountain Adventures.
Alternatively, call Jon Rollins
at the ACC’s National Office
(403) 678-3200, ext. 112
or email him at:
[email protected]
El Pico D’Orizaba and
Itzaccihuatl form the 3rd
and 7th highest peaks in
North America, both of them
over 5200m (17,000’). While
acclimatizing and resting
between trips, we will have
time to explore some of the
ancient and current cultural
photo by Karl Staddon
highlights of Mexico. This trip
is an excellent choice for anyone wanting to gain some
high altitude climbing experience with easy access and
relatively non-technical summits.
Yukon ACC Centennial Camp
2006 (YACC ’06)
Dates: June 15 – July 1, 2006
Cost: TBA (cost estimate $4000)
Staff: Helen Sovdat, Roger Wallis, Paul Geddes,
Willa Harasym
From our base camp on the Eclipse Glacier, ski
mountaineering ascents of numerous snow and ice
covered peaks are possible, including opportunities for
first ascents. Mounts Badham (3670m/12,038’) and Donjek,
(3560m/11,677’) are a short distance from camp. Views of
Canada’s highest mountains: Logan, Lucania, Steele and
Walsh, will fill the horizons.
Summer Leadership Course
Date: August 6 - 13
Cost: $650 + GST
Staff: Cyril Shokoples, Helen Sovdat, Masten Brolsma
Apply by: May 1, 2005
Held at the 2005 Moby Dick GMC, this course is aimed at current ACC trip leaders and will deal with the following
leadership skills: rope handling (specifically in general mountaineering situations); glacier travel; route planning
and selection; navigation; multi-pitch climbing; rescue systems; group dynamics, interaction and management; and
emergency-situation response.
Ed note: This article was written for the World Conservation Union (IUCN) for a brochure published for the Third World Conservation
Congress in Bangkok, November 2004. The ACC is proud to have earned the right to display the UIAA Environment Label in connection with
its National trips and camps, and is working with the UIAA toward establishing standards for backcountry facilities. The ACC’s Mountain
Adventures are conducted with great consideration for the environment and we are thrilled to be recognized for the care we take.
Encouraging good practice and corporate responsibility
BY
ROGER PAYNE
T
he International Mountaineering
and Climbing Federation (UIAA)
is the global expert in the practice
of climbing and mountaineering, and
links responsible access with protection
of the environment. This is why for many
years the World Conservation Union
(IUCN) and UIAA have worked together
on projects that:
● Protect cliff and mountain
environments;
● Promote sustainable development for
mountain communities; and
● Protect the freedom to enjoy nature
and outdoor recreation.
Climbers and mountaineers were
pioneers for the creation of protected
status for cliffs and mountain ranges.
Just over 100 years ago, the conservation
efforts of climbers John Muir and
14 Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
Theodore Roosevelt led to the
protection of vast areas of America’s
mountain west. The oldest national
mountaineering clubs were also some
of the first influential conservation
bodies. For example, in the opening
article of the first Canadian Alpine
Journal in 1907, Elizabeth Parker set
down the philosophical foundations
of the Canadian Alpine Club:
“…a national trust for the defence of our
mountain solitudes against the intrusion of
steam and electricity and all the vandalism
of this luxurious utilitarian age; for the
keeping free from the grind of commerce, the
:wooded passes and valleys and alplands of
the wilderness. It is people’s right to have
primitive access to the remote places of safest
retreat from the fever and the fret of the
market place and the beaten tracts of life.”
UIAA Environment page from brochure
The commitment of mountaineers to
mountain protection was demonstrated
in 2003 with UIAA participation in
the World Parks Congress in Durban,
South Africa and the pre-Congress
workshop in the Drakensberg. Significant
contributions were made to the IUCN
publication that emerged from this
workshop, Guidelines for Planning and
Managing Mountain Protected Areas, with
Linda McMillan of the American Alpine
Club acting as co-editor.
Today climbing and mountaineering
are an important part of the worldwide
multi-billion dollar tourism and outdoor
equipment industries. So, can nature
withstand the pressure of commercial
interests that make outdoor equipment
and sell package holidays to Everest? It
would be easy just to see the ‘outdoor
industry’ as a part of the problem
– but the UIAA sees collaboration with
outdoor businesses as an important part
of the solution.
Climbing and mountaineering
equipment manufacturers and holiday
companies provide goods and services to
those who enjoy recreation in the natural
environment. These businesses realise that
protecting nature and the right to enjoy
responsible access is of direct benefit
to their long-term economic success.
There are many examples of corporate
responsibility in the outdoor industry.
Building on the considerable conversation
work of leading mountaineers and
national federations, the UIAA has
recently launched two global initiatives
to help outdoor businesses ‘do the right
thing’ for the environment.
In January 2004 the UIAA introduced
an Environment Label (above) for
climbing schools and commercial
trekking and expedition companies. So
far 17 organisations in Asia, North and
South America and Europe have applied
to use the UIAA Environment Label
to demonstrate they are committed to
supporting the UIAA and to following
our Environmental Objectives and
Guidelines. Because of this initiative,
the UIAA’s good practice advice is being
followed by companies and actively
promoted to clients. This also creates a
broader evolution – some tour operators
in the Himalayas are now keen to
cooperate regionally to develop more
specific best practice measures with the
UIAA, based on the general guidelines.
The UIAA has also created an
opportunity for outdoor manufacturers
to become ‘Partners’ and show their
support for the UIAA’s international
work. One of the first companies to
take up the opportunity was Grivel, a
well-known Italian company that since
1818 has manufactured crampons and
ice axes in the Alps. Grivel has a history
of demonstrating its commitment
to environmental awareness and
responsibility. For example Grivel has
been a keen supporter of the campaign to
achieve protected status for Mont Blanc
(the only important continental summit
with no protected status). Grivel has
also helped with practical environment
projects in the Mont Blanc Range and in
2003 achieved ISO14001 Environment
Certification; thus giving credibility to
their claim to be an environmentally
friendly company. Grivel’s environmental
commitment forms a core part of their
marketing message; which further
reinforces awareness and good practice
advice to consumers.
Both these initiatives show how the
UIAA is linking the strong common
interests shared by outdoor enthusiasts,
commercial enterprises providing
goods and services, and national
and international bodies for outdoor
recreation and conservation. By drawing
these stakeholders together, the UIAA
is helping to magnify their efforts
towards achieving adequate protection
for mountain environments, sustainable
development for mountain communities,
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know a great fit depends on more than just length. For any challenge, Dunham fits.
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and the freedom to enjoy nature.
To see the latest UIAA news, plus a
full list of Environment Label holders
and Partners, go to www.uiaa.ch
Roger Payne is UIAA Sports and
Development Director.
UIAA Ice Climbing Commission formed
At the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) Council
meeting in New Delhi in October, a new UIAA Ice Climbing Commission was formed
to manage the UIAA’s responsibility for international ice climbing competitions. The
Commission plans to take responsibility for the international rules, appointment of
officials and calendar for the 2006 season. A key part of this process will be applying the
UIAA’s Disciplinary Rules and the Anti Doping Policy and Procedure. Compliance with
the World Anti Doping Code is a requirement for all UIAA competitions.
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
15
A volunteer’s commitment to the Alpine Club of Canada
The Gazette continues to recognize the contributions of some of the Alpine Club of
Canada’s (ACC) most dedicated and long-serving Executive Committee volunteers. Cam
Roe has served as VP Activities since 1996 and has been the recipient of the Silver Rope for
Leadership and Distinguished Service Award. Cam lives in Calgary with his wife Leslie and
their two children, Sam and William (aka Stu). He works as VP and chief software architect
for PsiNaptic Inc. in Calgary.
Building the life that I know
BY
CAM ROE
I
must be getting old. I can’t remember
a time in my life when mountains
and mountaineering weren’t part of
that life. Unlike many people who climb
today, I made no conscious choice to
climb or not to climb. It was simply part
of growing up and being alive.
My first mountaineering memory of
climbing is with my father. Funny how
that works! Apparently the rule in our
house was that if Dad went out, he had
to take one of the six children with him,
preferably more than one if at all possible
and with preference always given to
those children with some sort of mental
deficiency that did not allow them to
figure out what was going to happen.
We were going on an easy scramble
up Mt. Krandel in Waterton Lakes
National Park with my Uncle Bern. I
don’t remember getting there or the walk
up, but the memory becomes clearer as
the weather deteriorated into a raging
snowstorm. I was wearing the extra
green canvas anorak (army surplus) that
Dad brought, ploughing through snow
that was up to my chest with the anorak
reaching below my knees. I remember
thinking it’s a good thing I’m short, the
snow trough I’m walking in is breaking
the wind. I was seven.
We finally bailed down a snow gully
but we didn’t have any ice axes or rope
with us. It was just an easy scramble after
all! So Dad would plunge-step down a
few metres while I was held in place on
the snow by Uncle Bern. When he was
ready below, Dad would wave. Sort of a
‘release the hounds’ wave, because at that
point I would be released and would slide
down the slope to be caught.
For those of you with any sense
of foreshadowing, you will see what
is coming next. Yes, there was a slight
misjudgement in the slope trajectory
that not even an athletic and valiant dive
16 Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
could compensate for. Blissfully ignorant,
I thought that this was all part of the
plan; after all, the trees at the bottom
were relatively close. As I approached
Mach 1, my huge, green canvas anorak
caught the wind and flipped over my
head. This had the dual effect of both
blinding me and becoming a giant snow
scoop. I ended up stopping in fairly short
order after that and received words of
advice from both Dad and Uncle Bern
that there was really no need to mention
this to Mom.
What has all of this got to do with
volunteering? Well, simply that all of
my memories of the mountains involve
a sense of adventure and connection
to the people who you are climbing
with. Whether climbing with complete
strangers or with your best friends and
family, there is a sense of being connected
to each other that is fundamental to the
experience. It is giving and experiencing
that sense of connection that is probably
the largest motivating factor for any
volunteer work I do with the Club.
Now I’m not saying that this is a
purely selfless sacrifice on my part. As
Ralph Waldo Emerson once said, “It is
one of the most beautiful compensations
of life, that no man can sincerely try to
help another without helping himself.”
And judging by the conversations that
I have with many of you, I need all the
help I can get.
Mountaineering and the Alpine Club
of Canada have been and will remain an
integral part of my life and I simply can’t
see living that life without trying to help.
It makes no sense to me, to partake in the
multitude of opportunities that the ACC
provides, without trying to put something
back in. The sense of connection that
you get by volunteering is truly amazing.
Leading trips in the mountains, serving
on the Board of Directors and on the
Cam on the East Ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell.
PHOTO: ROGER LAURILLA
Calgary Section executive over the years
has been one of the most rewarding (and
apparently helpful) experiences that I
could imagine.
One of the other major factors in any
volunteer organization is the people that
volunteering allows you to meet. The
people who you meet and work with,
quickly become friends that you will have
for the rest of your life. Now arguably,
claiming some of these folk as friends for
life could seem like more of a punishment
than a reward, but I can say without
reservation, there has not been one person
I have not been proud to work with.
You may not agree with all of the people
all of the time, but it is not far from
the mark to say that each has the best
interests of the ACC and mountaineering
community at heart, and it is our rare
good fortune that they have the fortitude
to express those ideas and opinions.
I think in the end, at least in my
mind I’m not really sacrificing anything
at all. The rewards of volunteering
simply overwhelm the small sacrifices
of a weekend here and there to go to
a meeting, and then retire to the pub
(usually, but not necessarily in that order).
As Winston Churchill once said,
“You make a living by what you get,
but you make a life by what you give.”
Volunteering for the ACC is simply part
of building the life that I know.
Maximize your volunteer time
BY
HEATHER CALVERT
C
haritable organizations such as the Alpine Club of Canada rely on the
generosity of volunteers and financial donors. But did you know that your full
time employer might be willing to help out as well? Here are some ways that
you might be able to make your good deeds go farther.
Donation matching
Many companies are prepared to match monetary donations to registered charities
either during their annual charitable donations drives (by naming the charity specifically
to which you would like to donate) or as a separate program. If you plan on giving to the
ACC, doing it in conjunction with such a program will double the money to the ACC.
Community Giving
Some companies also have programs
through which they will give money to
organizations to which their employees
belong. Typically, the employee needs to
fill out a form to request specific funding
and an indication of how long they have
been with the employer.
Paying for your time
WWWMARMOTCOM0HOTO!CE+VALE
Some companies will also provide
funding for an employee’s time spent
volunteering. For example, my company
will gift $12 per hour to the ACC if I
volunteer a minimum of 10 hours in a
consecutive three-month period.
The bottom line – if you’re currently
helping out the ACC, talk to your
company’s human resources department
and perhaps your volunteer time can go
farther than you think!
Jumbo Update
T
he British Columbia
government has approved an
environmental assessment
certificate for the Jumbo Glacier
Resort. The $450 million resort still
requires approval from B.C. Land and
Water. In order to pursue their plans,
the developers must then have the
rezoning approved by the Regional
District of East Kootenay.
Visit www.jumbowild.com
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Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
17
The North Face Leadership
Course summer 2004
PHOTO:
PETER AMANN
BY
SELENA SWETS
T
his year’s summer leadership
course took place in the
spectacular Icefall Brook area,
in the Mount Lyell group on the west
side of the Canadian Rockies. We
shared the camp with members on the
Alpine Club of Canada’s (ACC) General
Mountaineering Camp (GMC), making
for a fun and social camp. Base camp was
a scenic fly in/fly out, to a box canyon
at the headwaters of Icefall Brook, with
an elevation of 2166 metres. Objectives
in the area included Mount Forbes,
the Lyell Group (five spectacular peaks
over 3355 m or 11,000 feet) and other
summits including Mons, Messines, St.
Julien and The Divisions. Our inspiring
Association of Canadian Mountain
Guides (ACMG) guides were Cyril
Shokoples and Helen Sovdat, with help
from Masten Brolsma, our excellent
amateur leader.
The day we flew in we were beset by
storm clouds and low visibility, making
for some long waits at the helicopter
landing both at the parking area and at
camp and multiple flight attempts for
others. Note to self: always carry sleeping
bag and pad with you on the helicopter,
as you never know when they might not
be able to fly! We all made it in however
and even had our gear.
That evening after a fantastic meal
prepared by our camp staff we got to meet
everyone and check out the itinerary for
the week. There were representatives from
18 Alpine Club of Canada
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Gazette
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WINTER 2005
ACC sections from Toronto, Winnipeg,
Calgary, Edmonton, Montreal and
North Vancouver – an interesting mix of
people and experiences from across the
country. Day one was spent as skills day,
as we covered short-roping skills with
lots and lots of practice, then worked on
protection placements, rope anchors and
piton craft. As well, we covered aspects
of rock rescue. The evening, after a
sumptuous three-course dinner, was spent
learning about liability and legal issues
and leader roles and responsibilities. It
was a very busy and intense day.
Day two was spent with a trip up
3085 m Mons Peak as we practiced
pacing and route transition from rock to
glacier. Short roping skills were practiced
in earnest, as we took turns in leading
each other up and down the summit rock.
Bluebird skies on the summit made for
route scouting as we took in the views
and noted future objectives. Our descent
involved ice anchors using an abalokov
and lowering multiple climbers using a
monster Munter hitch.
Day three involved ascents of
Messines, St. Julien and Main Division
by teams of three or four. On this day, we
were given more leadership roles under
guidance by our leaders. We crossed
glaciers, negotiated crevasses (some
people seem to fall in more often than
others!) and furthered our short roping
and route assessment – thankfully no
crevasse rescue skills were needed. After
this day some swam in the tarn behind
the tents, then everyone enjoyed the usual
fabulous meal.
On day four everyone started early
– at 4:40 a.m. – for some big summit
days. The GMC group was doing the
Lyells as a two day trip with a bivy at
high camp, while most of us were going
there as a day trip. None of our three
groups returned earlier than 12 hours,
with one of our groups, which headed to
Forbes, clocking the summit for 19 hours!
After a long day in the hot sun on the
glacier, the tarn felt wonderful. Themes
for the day were again pacing, group
assessment and management, glacier
navigation and weather assessment.
Day five was instructional day in
camp, providing a much-needed rest,
especially for the Forbes group. We
covered contents of a leader’s pack,
route planning, radio and GPS (global
positioning system) communication,
first aid and repair kits, navigation and
crevasse rescue. After this we were
assigned our ‘homework’ – to plan and
execute a route we had never climbed.
Our guides, amateur leader and fellow
participants portrayed neophyte climbers
we leaders had to safely lead to bag a
peak. This was the chance to hone our
skills and seek out our weaknesses.
Day six was Friday, when three eager
groups executed route plans in climbs of
Main Division and St. Julien. This was
where it all came together. The guides
and amateur leader were excellent in
summarizing our learned skills and
accomplishments of the week. After
dinner were single interviews with the
guides to review our individual strengths
and weakness from the week. At last, in
the evening, we rounded up some guitar
players, singers and the rest of our nonexpert voices for the end of the week bash
around a bonfire.
The week ended with many goodbyes
and thank yous, then the scenic flight
out to our cars. What a week! And
now it remains to distribute the good
knowledge amongst our members. I
would recommend this course to any of
our leaders, aspiring or experienced, for
the experience it brings to their section.
Warmest thanks to the ACC’s
Vancouver Island Section executive for
endorsing me on this course; it was a
wonderful and eye opening experience
which I hope to share with all of you.
Celebrating Alberta’s Centennial – mountain style
BY
ANGUS TAYLOR
T
wenty-five years ago, Alpine Club
of Canada (ACC) members from
across Alberta celebrated their
province's 75t birthday by climbing 75
Alberta Rocky Mountain peaks. This year
– 2005 – a much bigger celebration is
planned to mark Alberta’s Centennial.
Through the Alberta Centennial
Mountain Expedition (ACME),
volunteers will climb 100 selected peaks
from Waterton Lakes to Jasper National
Parks. Many of those summits are
familiar peaks that can be reached as day
hikes from trailheads on major highways,
while others range in difficulty from
adventurous scrambles to serious and
committing alpine climbs.
The good part is that participation is
open to any individuals or groups who
want to join in the fun.
To pick your peak, check out the full list
of mountains at www.climbalberta.com
and follow the link to Mountains. Groups
can choose to climb one mountain or
many over the course of the year. Alpine
Club sections may want to focus on
climbing a group of peaks in one area,
such as Jasper’s Tonquin Valley or the
Valley of the Ten Peaks in Banff National
Park. The ACME team will do its best
to accommodate participants’ choices of
suitable peaks, while working toward the
collective goal of climbing 100 summits.
To participate, look for the Volunteer
section on the website. Participation
is entirely voluntary and individuals
and groups are expected to use the
same prudence they would on any
mountaineering outing.
Throughout the year, the
ACME organizers plan to use the
climbalberta.com website to report
on the progress of the project. Each
volunteer climbing group will be asked
to carry a digital camera – that ACME
will supply – and to publish a short
photo diary and personal stories on the
site. At the conclusion of the project,
ACME plans to host a celebration where
everyone will be welcome to view a slide
show of the climbers’ images and hear
their stories, with the proceeds being
donated toward the maintenance of the
ACC’s huts.
But it’s not only about climbing
mountains – ACME is also about
learning about them. With the support
of Alberta Learning, new social studies
resources are being created focussing on
the Rocky Mountains’ geography, geology,
human history and importance to the
world, aimed toward Grade 4 students.
The learning units will be available
through a national online educational
project. This learning initiative has
been fortunate to partner with content
providers including Parks Canada who
has provided images, written and video
material to be accessed by schoolchildren
across Canada with a goal to encourage
and enable schoolchildren to learn about
the mountains, their history and how
they came to shape the lives of Albertans
and Canadians.
The third component of ACME
kicks off in February 2005, as a team of
six plans to ski 1200 kilometres from
the Alberta/British Columbia/United
States border following the Continental
Divide all the way north to the Willmore
Wilderness area. You can follow the
team’s progress on the ACME website.
To volunteer in any way
or for more information, visit
www.climbalberta.com or send an e-mail
to [email protected].
Angus Taylor, ACME leader, is a Rocky
Mountain Section member. His uncle, Jim
Comfort, organized the climbing of 75 peaks
to celebrate Alberta’s 75th birthday.
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
19
Isaac shares mixed climbing secrets
BY LYNN
MARTEL
F
our short years ago, Sean Isaac,
one of Canmore Alberta’s more
energetic and prolific climbers,
produced the world’s first guidebook
devoted solely to the mixed climbing
discipline.
Only last winter, a considerably
fatter second edition of Mixed Climbs in
the Canadian Rockies hit outdoor gear
bookstands and now Isaac lays claim to
another first – a ‘how to’ book completely
focussed on – you guessed it – mixed
climbing.
One of U.S. publisher Globe Pequot
Press’s popular Falcon Guide How
To series, which includes separate
instructional books on rock and
ice climbing, Mixed Climbing is a
comprehensive guide to everything a
climber or curious gear junkie would ever
want or need to know about climbing
poor quality rock and gossamer dribbles
of ice outfitted with sharp pointed steel
picks and liberally spurred footwear.
With chapters describing the origins
20 Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
of the activity – which is derived from
a frequently unavoidable element of
traditional mountaineering where
sections of mixed rock and ice are
negotiated en route to a summit – plus
equipment, techniques and training,
Isaac explains and demonstrates such
specialized climbing moves as body
holstering, figure nines – “similar to a
figure four, except the same leg is hooked
over the same arm,” the mouth grab
– also known as the pirate, swapping – as
in ice tools, and advice on extracting an
ice pick that’s been swung into a log.
Fortunately, the book also includes a
glossary and plenty of humorous ACME
style diagrams and sketches by artist
Mike Clelland that will be familiar to
readers of Climbing magazine. As well,
separate chapters contain listings of
North American ice climbing festivals
and recommended destinations that will
have mixed climbers planning vacations
for years to come. And with a forward by
American ice climbing pioneer Jeff Lowe
and essays by Scottish climber Ian Parnell
and Brit Neil Gresham the book harbours
a well-rounded international flavour.
Not a publication for the armchair
traveller however, Mixed Climbing’s pages
are packed with clear and sharp black
and white images by Canmore based
climbing photographer, Andrew Querner,
who successfully put aside his formidable
creative instincts to focus on the task at
hand.
Mixed Climbing also contains a pack
full of safety tips and words on ethical
considerations, including advice on
falling – to be avoided at all costs in ice
climbing, falling is accepted and non-life
threatening in the fixed bolt protected
realm of mixed climbing, as well as tips
for aspiring competitors – Isaac, 32,
is a veteran with results ranging from
first to frequent fourth place finishes at
competitions including Colorado’s Ouray,
Quebec’s Festiglace and Canmore’s Ice
Climbing Festival.
And while mixed climbing continues
to grow in popularity, this book will
likely prove of great value to increasing
numbers of enthusiasts looking to
improve and master the highly physical,
technique oriented activity that lends
itself well to detailed instruction.
Not only that, with pictures of the
most current fruit boots – with crampons
attached directly to the soles – and
leashless tools, complete with step-bystep directions on fabricating one’s own
such items from old gear, this book will
make a fascinating anthropological study
of the M game for readers several decades
from now.
It will however, take a lot of yoga
classes before most aspiring M climbers
even attempt the contortions involved
in a thigh hook, which Isaac describes,
“works best in heel hooking situations
where the knee is higher than the hip.”
Fay Hut
reconstruction
update
BY
0=>NAPKKPD
BRUCE HARDARDT
F
*ETA@*=OPAN
‰>H=?G@E=IKJ@AMQELIAJP
ay Hut, the Alpine Club of
Canada’s (ACC) first hut and
designated historic site, which was
built in 1927, was destroyed in a forest
fire in August 2003. Rebuilding the Fay
Hut is one of the Club’s Centennial
projects (see article in Fall 2004 Gazette).
Since surveying the new Fay Hut site
last July and obtaining Parks Canada
approval, the Fay Hut reconstruction
committee has made substantial
progress. The committee drew up design
specifications, which were approved in
principle by Parks Canada. These were
then sent out in a request for proposal to
many log homebuilders. After reviewing
the proposals submitted, the committee
chose Dan Strand, an experienced log
homebuilder who’s done volunteer work
for the ACC at Stanley Mitchell Hut.
Research and development has begun
to design an environmentally sustainable
grey water treatment system, including a
power component to assist in keeping the
system from freezing. We are currently
testing a gravity-fed water purification
system at the Elk Lakes Cabin; if this
system is successful, we will use it at the
Fay Hut site as well. The application
for the building permit is in the process
of being completed, with the ACC
continuing to work in partnership with
Parks Canada.
Fay Hut committee members hope
to complete the new hut’s construction
by the end of summer 2005, finances
permitting. The window for construction
runs one month, starting July 15.
The current list of volunteers amounts
to about half the manpower needed
to complete the hut’s reconstruction.
The committee is still looking for the
following volunteers:
● people skilled in construction trades
(stone mason, stone tile setter,
carpenters – including a cabinet
maker willing to build the kitchen);
● people who can use power tools;
● two skilled camp cooks able to cook
for 15 (menu provided);
● labourers willing to build trails and do
foundation work.
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The Fay Hut reconstruction committee would like to thank the following people
for their volunteer help to date:
● Simon Statkewich, ACC Manitoba Section, for providing AutoCAD drawing
services for the Fay Hut design;
● James Heck for providing insight into log constructed homes;
● the hard working members of the design committee and the Fay Hut committee.
Donations are still needed to cover the final construction costs and can be made
through the National Office (see back cover of this Gazette). Anyone interested in
volunteering should contact Bruce Hardardt at [email protected]
Bruce Hardardt is the Fay Hut project manager.
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
21
New systems help share avalanche information
BY LYNN
MARTEL
T
he Canadian Avalanche
Association (CAA) and Parks
Canada have created several
new systems to help provide winter
backcountry users with more streamlined
and easily available tools for trip
planning.
The address is familiar, but the
website is new – www.avalanche.ca
is the home of the newly formed
Canadian Avalanche Centre (CAC).
The non-profit corporation serves as
Canada’s national public safety avalanche
organization by coordinating public
avalanche programming, providing public
avalanche safety warnings, delivering
public avalanche awareness and education
and providing avalanche training
for recreational backcountry users
– ultimately in both official languages.
The CAC functions as an entirely
separate entity from the CAA, which
remains Canada’s professional avalanche
organization, providing technical support,
training and other specialized services for
workers and avalanche professionals.
To help increase avalanche awareness
among all Canadians, together the CAC
and Parks Canada have created the
Backcountry Avalanche Advisory (BAA).
The system uses simple, easily identified
green, yellow and red icons designed
to accompany TV, newspaper and
Internet weather maps, with avalanche
Executive Committee slate
O
n October 30, 2004 the Alpine Club of Canada Nominations Committee
(chaired by immediate Past President, Mike Mortimer) presented its report
to the national Board of Directors. The report proposes the following
national Executive Committee slate for the two-year term beginning in May, 2005:
President: Cam Roe
Secretary: Peter Muir
Treasurer: Gordon Currie
VP Activities: Roger Laurilla
VP Facilities: Carl Hannigan
VP Services: David Zemrau
VP Access and Environment: Isabel Daigneault
VP Mountain Culture: Robert Sandford
According to the Club’s bylaws, additional nominations may be submitted by a
member provided the nominations:
● are accompanied by the names and signatures of at least 50 supporting members in
good standing, and
● reach the Club’s National Office no later than March 1, 2005.
If one or more such nominations are received, election ballots for the position(s)
involved will be mailed to members in March. If not, the above slate will be declared
elected and will assume office at the Club’s Annual General Meeting in May 2005.
22 Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
conditions in a particular region rated
as Good, Serious, Poor or Variable, with
corresponding travel advice calling for
Normal Caution, Extra Caution, Not
Recommended and Extra Caution. The
new BAA is meant as a starting point for
people seeking avalanche information,
with the international five-scale danger
rating system still available to those
who seek information at the next more
detailed level by a click of the mouse.
Parks Canada’s new Avalanche Terrain
Exposure Scale (ATES) indexes over 250
backcountry trails in Banff, Jasper, Yoho,
Kootenay, Glacier, Mount Revelstoke and
Waterton Lakes parks according to the
degree of exposure to avalanche terrain,
the existence of options to reduce or
eliminate that exposure and the severity
of objective dangers with any associated
glacier travel. The trails are classified
using familiar ski hill style green, blue
and black icons as Simple - Class 1,
Challenging - Class 2 and Complex
- Class 3. The information is linked to
route descriptions listed in four popular
guidebooks – Chic Scott’s Summits
and Icefields, Columbia Mountains and
Canadian Rockies, his Ski Trails in the
Canadian Rockies and Ski Touring in
Rogers Pass by J.P. Kors and John Kelly.
Working in conjunction with the
ATES and the BAA ratings, Parks
Canada has redefined its Custodial
Group Backcountry Travel Policies.
Custodial groups are now permitted
access to routes classified as Simple or
Class 1 according to the ATES without
any specific leadership by a professional
guide, and access to terrain rated as
Challenging, or Class 2 only when led by
a mountain guide or ski guide certified
through the Association of Canadian
Mountain Guides or the International
Federation of Mountain Guides
Associations. It is illegal for custodial
groups to access Class 3 or Complex
terrain. The policy also recommends that
custodial groups avoid backcountry travel
entirely during times when avalanches
conditions are rated Poor according to
the BAA.
For more information go to
www.avalanche.ca or follow the quick
link from www.alpineclubofcanada.ca
National Office news
BY
NANCY HANSEN
S
ome people in the National Office
are working harder than others
to increase the Alpine Club of
Canada’s (ACC) membership numbers.
Audrey Wheeler, Director of Member
Services, and her husband Richard Berry
had a beautiful baby girl named Erin on
CLASSIFIED ADS
ACC CUSTOM PORTERING SERVICES
Available for all huts summer
and winter. If you are planning a
backcountry hut trip and would like to
have your food and equipment carried
in, contact the Mountain Adventures
Coordinator, Jon Rollins, for details
at (403) 678-3200 ext. 112 or e-mail
[email protected]
November 19, 2004. Jefferey Lockyer,
the ACC’s new part-time Information
Technologist and his wife Lizette had
a baby boy named Cooper Norman on
December 23, 2004. Josée Larochelle,
Office Manager, and her husband Kelly
McLeod are expecting their second child
in March. Congratulations to all and
welcome to these new members!
The ACC owes its thanks to Rachel
Ross, who worked at the front desk and
in the National Office for three years.
She left in December to attend school in
Calgary. David Toole, ACC President,
has been volunteering in the National
Office on a full time basis since last June
for nothing more than a pat on the back.
He is heading up the On-line Facility
Bookings project and working on various
other time-consuming management level
jobs. Thank you David!
Dan Verrall was publicly recognized
for his 20 years of continuous
employment with the ACC at the
Mountain Guides Ball, which took
place at the Chateau Lake Louise in
the Canadian Rockies in October.
Several hundred people rose to their feet
in celebration of Dan’s contributions
and joined Executive Director, Bruce
Keith, in congratulating him on such
an achievement. Those who know Dan
are well aware of the dedication he has
shown to the objectives of the Club
and to the huts system in particular
as Maintenance Manager these past
decades. Well-done Danny!
All of us at the National Office wish
all of you a safe and enjoyable winter
season.
NOTICES
2006 SKI WEEK LOTTERIES
Links
●
The Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow)
Hut lottery will take place on May
2, 2005 for the 2006 ski season at
Fairy Meadow.
● The Kokanee Glacier Cabin lottery
will take place on May 23, 2005 for
the 2006 ski season at Kokanee.
Lottery forms are available on the
ACC website. For more info, visit:
www.alpinehuts.ca and click on the
Bill Putnam (Fairy Meadow) Hut or
Kokanee Glacier Cabin.
UPCOMING MEETINGS
Executive Committee meeting:
● April 9, Canmore
Board of Directors meeting:
● May 14 & 15, Canmore
Annual General Meeting:
● May 14 or 15 (TBD), Canmore
CLASSIFIED ADS RATES:
$20.00 plus $1.00 per word +GST
E-mail your ad to:
[email protected]
or mail to the address on page 3.
BY
RICHARD BERRY
T
his month’s links have an international theme, featuring websites that give useful
climbing information from around the world.
www.rockclimbing.com has a click-able map of the world, which leads
to routes, events, stores, climbing gyms and local websites for countries as popular as
Canada and the U.K. to more adventurous locations such as Iraq and Zimbabwe.
For more detailed information on climbing in a particular country, have a look at
these websites.
www.ukclimbing.com has detailed information about each crag (climbing area)
across the U.K. including recommended routes, safety notes, which guidebook to use, a
five-day weather forecast (usually raining) and the nearest indoor climbing wall to go to
when it is raining! The only thing missing from this website is a list of the nearest pubs
to head to at the end of the day.
Also in Europe, www.planetmountain.com is an Italian website that specializes
in climbing in the Dolomites but also has some useful information about climbing in
Croatia, France, Greece, Slovenia and Spain.
If you’re heading to South Africa or New Zealand then www.climb.co.za and
www.climb.co.nz are the respective climbing resources for these two countries, which
are becoming more popular with Canadian climbers.
If you’re interested in mountaineering and paragliding from a Russian perspective
then look at www.mountain.ru It features climbing, skiing and paragliding news about
Russians at home and abroad.
Finally, if you’re in the small town of Benasque in the Spanish Pyrenees then look
out for the Barrabés climbing store. It is the most amazing climbing store that I’ve ever
come across and occupies 3000 square metres on four floors. They even have a coffee bar
half way up the store to revive weary shoppers! Their website is just as impressive with
an amazing range of climbing equipment plus packs and harnesses for dogs as well as
mountain rescue equipment. Check out www.barrabes.com and don’t forget your coffee!
If you have any websites that you recommend then please email your suggestions to
me at [email protected]
Alpine Club of Canada
●
Gazette
●
WINTER 2005
23
Centennial Fund Campaign 2004 – 2006
Fundraising well underway
ACC fundraising efforts got another big boost with a significant donation toward reconstruction
of the Fay Hut, this time coming from Beverley Bendell. Bev has been an ACC member since
1972, and has acted as ACC Librarian since 1982. She received the Distinguished Service Award
in 1985 and the A. O. Wheeler Legacy Award in 1998.
In a letter accompanying her donation, Bev wrote...
"I have always been a fan of the ACC huts, using them from my early years in the ACC both
as a hiker and as a climber. They provide a unique experience to people using the mountains and
wanting a real mountain adventure. The Fay Hut, being the first constructed by the ACC, is a
unique destination, whether you visit it as a single overnighter or enroute to the Neil Cogan Hut."
Rebuilding the Fay Hut is now estimated to cost $250,000 including $115,000 for materials
and $70,000 for helicopter time to fly in the logs and other materials. Thanks to major donations
by Geoff Cumming and Bev Bendell, plus many smaller donations from other ACC members,
we have raised approximately $180,000 for this project, and there was $35,000 in insurance. That
leaves a shortfall of $35,000. Project Manager Bruce Hardardt is beginning to stockpile materials
and recruit volunteers, intending to start construction early in July. He estimates that he will need
100 volunteers to donate 6,000 hours of labour.
Meanwhile, the ACC Centennial is now less than a year way and there are many worthwhile
projects that still require funding. An example is making available on DVD a digitized version of
100 years worth of Canadian Alpine Journals – a project that is well underway under the auspices
of Bob Sandford and the Mountain Culture Committee – but the costs of the project will be
substantial. If you are in a position to help us out with our fundraising efforts on this and other
Centennial projects, we would love to hear from you.
Canadian donors:
American donors:
The Alpine Club of Canada is a Registered Charitable
organization and will send you a gift receipt for tax
purposes. Your donation will allow the Club to undertake
projects like reconstruction of the Fay Hut that it could not
fund from internal sources.
The ACC Foundation is a US 501(c)(3) corporation, whose
purposes mirror those of the Alpine Club of Canada.
Donations sent to the Foundation will be put to work in the
manner stipulated by the donor, and a US tax receipt will be
issued.
Please mail the completed form to:
Please mail the completed form to:
Alpine Club of Canada
P.O. Box 8040
Canmore, AB Canada T1W 2T8
❏ I would like to contribute to the Centennial Fund
ACC Foundation
4260 Frank Neely Road
Norcross, GA USA 30092
❏ Please use my donation where it is most needed.
❏ Please use my donation to support the reconstruction of the Fay Hut.
I will help
YES!
❏ I would rather donate to another Alpine Club of Canada fund:
❏ Facilities projects
❏ Environment
❏ Mountain Culture
❏ Endowment
❏ Leadership Development
❏ Library
Name:
I prefer to donate by:
❏ I wish to remain anonymous
Mailing / Street Address:
City:
❏ Cheque enclosed
Donation Amount:
$______
❏ MasterCard
❏ VISA
. Credit Card #
Province:
Home Phone:
Business Phone:
Expiry Date: .
/
Postal Code:
E-mail Address:
charitable registration no. 
 rr
Signature:
Thank you for your support of these worthwhile projects.