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©2013 HairUWear Inc. Extensions pioneer and celebrity stylist Sheila Stotts breaks down the evolution of hair enhancement. potatoes—to create the voluminous shapes of Victorian and Edwardian hairstyles. killing lighting of black and white film. 1960s Comedy Hour offers a weekly trip to the outer limits of hair design. 1920s 1980 Wigs and hairpieces lie low as the popularity of the sleek flapper bob ascends. Brooke Shields goes “naked” in The Blue Lagoon but for her extensions, which are strategically placed, then glued to her body. 1940s The Golden Age of Hollywood hairpieces: 1970s The weave is born in America’s parlors and kitchens, as African- 1837-1912 Hairdressers use padded forms—some made from Wigs, placed on the head and then cut with the natural fall of the hair, compensate for the volume- American women experiment with sewing hair onto cornrowed braids. 1971-1974 The Sonny and Cher 1995 2001 Sharon Stone serves up a one-woman retrospective of 1960s hairstyles in Martin Scorsese’s Casino. Great Lengths introduces the Ultrasonic 5000 Application Machine, an alternative to external heat which softens attachment bonds by generating heat within the strands via ultrasonic vibration. Stylists experience the freedom of more versatile bonding, including a flat bond profile for straight, sleek and fluid styles. 2005 Great Lengths extensions are used in Memoirs of a Geisha, a film where the elaborate styles were almost characters in themselves. Revolutionary new GL Apps opens a world of creative possibilities as well as new markets. PHOTOGRAPHY: CORBIS (30 BC, 1920S, 1940S, 1960S, 1971, 1980, 1995) GETTY (1970S) The Brothers Grimm publish Rapunzel, forever bonding little girls’ happily-everafter dreams to the notion of luxurious locks. Previously a closely-held insider beauty secret, Great Lengths extensions become a celebrity status symbol when named “One of The 40 Most Fabulous Things on Earth” on VH1’s Fabulous 40. Shortly thereafter, extension application services become a staple on salon menus everywhere. Great Lengths USA launches with the introduction of the prebonded strand concept aided by its Thermal 3200 Application Machine. Full sets of extensions previously taking up to 12 hours can be accomplished in half the time. 30 BC 1812 2004 Four-strand braiding, a technique using synthetic, heat-bonded strands and requiring two stylists working in tandem, expands creative options but eats up hours. 1992 The fall reigns supreme: go-go dancers and suburban housewives alike embrace the ability to change their looks in an instant. Wigs like Cleopatra’s, made from yak or horse hair, identify wearers as members of an elite segment of society. Mid-1980s T his spring, Great Lengths USA will unveil a new technology that has been four years in the making. GL Apps by Great Lengths is a revolutionary, high-speed extension system that requires no heat, bonds virtually invisibly and lasts a minimum of six weeks. Best of all, says Great Lengths USA Program Director Brett Butcher, GL Apps are made from the premium-quality hair that Great Lengths is known for. “Our salons have been asking for this for a long time,” says Butcher. “Many salons that use Great Lengths premium extensions have been expanding their business into lower-end tape systems. Until now, they’ve had to make do with lesser-quality hair. GL Apps enables them to offer premium-quality Great Lengths hair to a wider class of clientele.” Butcher explains that the company’s engineers developed GL Apps as an alternative to traditional tape systems that are applied by sandwiching a strand of natural hair between two extensions, a method that results in bulky, less-than-natural-looking connections. Instead, GL Apps are sandwiched between two strands of the client’s natural hair, so the bond is flat and virtually invisible. “You can literally run your hand down the client’s head and you can’t feel the bonds,” says Butcher. GL Apps, applied with a simple crimping tool, are backed by a Safety Band, a clear film on the underside of the attachment that prevents heat from the scalp from softening the bond, an innovation that results in longer wear. GL Apps are also reusable. In addition to opening new markets, Butcher says, GL Apps are opening up new creative possibilities for stylists because of the quick application time and inconspicuous bond. “Our test salons have been using them for tons of color work: highlights, lowlights, pops of primary color,” says Butcher. “You can even use them on very short hair because the bond is so discreet.” GL Apps come in the same five lengths and 50-plus colors as Great Lengths’ premium extensions. The new system will be available to Great Lengths certified stylists in April 2014, marking yet another innovation pioneered by the company that has driven extension technology from the beginning. “We’re really proud,” says Butcher, “because, once again, we’re leading the market.” BEFORE Creating natural-looking, all-over length is easier than ever before, with new GL Apps. Great Lengths USA takes the high road when sourcing and processing hair for its extensions. D ieter Ferschinger, creative director for Great Lengths Germany, turned to new GL Apps to transform this model’s look with extra length in subtle, face-framing layers. “This is the fastest and easiest hair extension application available,” Ferschinger says. He explains that, because of the unique, two-sided form of the GL App and the added feature of the Safety Band, it’s not necessary to align two separate tape tabs. “No guesswork is needed to determine the amount of natural hair to attach because the patented two-sided tape will only accept as much of the client’s hair as it needs for a resilient attachment,” Ferschinger says. “And because the tape is sandwiched between the client’s natural hair, the attachment sites are virtually invisible.” 1 For a lengthening application, choose extensions no more than twice the client’s natural hair length. Apply the Safety Band to the bottom of the GL App, positioning halfway between the crown and occipital ridge 3 After all GL Apps are in place, point-cut the perimeter to take out weight as well as cut into the overall shape. If there is a line where the natural hair stops, point-cut into the natural hair to soften the line so it blends seamlessly. 2 Firmly press down with the GL App tool on the entire point of connection. Continue adding extensions, working around the circumference of the head. Since the GL App bond is flat and virtually invisible, extensions will have a natural fall and movement. 4 Use a slide-cutting technique to blend the natural hair with the Great Lengths at the fringe area and create layers that frame the face. Use a large-barrel curling iron to create soft curls directed away from the face. T here’s more to leadership than technological innovation. Though Great Lengths recently announced a breakthrough new application process that advances the evolution of hair extensions, the company has long set the bar for quality, with procurement and processing practices centered on respect—respect for the donor, respect for the salon client and respect for the environment. “All hair sourced for Great Lengths is from the Hindu temples of India. This is the finest source of virgin hair available, and is the most compatible with Caucasian and European hair textures,” says Great Lengths USA Program Director Brett Butcher. Indian women and men sacrifice their hair at local temples as an expression of gratitude to Hindu gods for good fortune, and to symbolize their humility. It’s a ritual that’s a serious and heartfelt expression of faith, yet many procurers of temple hair approach the purchase without respect for the sacrifice it represents. An article in the March/ April 2010 issue of Mother Jones magazine describes a network of suppliers, brokers and buyers engaged in a crass process akin to commodities trading. By contrast, Great Lengths proudly and uniquely sources every strand with the guarantee that each one has been donated willingly and with the full consent of the donor. “We guarantee that the donor has been treated with respect and care,” says Butcher. “A fair and reasonable price is agreed upon for the hair, and the money paid to the temples to procure the hair is used solely for charitable endeavors, not for personal or individual profit.” CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: All hair for Great Lengths USA extensions is sourced from the temples of India; Great Lengths’ facility in Bangalore, India, tests hair for previous exposure to chemical processing; hair determined to be virgin quality is shipped to the Great Lengths facility in Nepi, Italy, where it’s cleaned and gently depigmented using a natural osmosis process. CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Hair is sorted by color and length; colored, bonded extensions, ready for shipping; all Great Lengths extensions undergo the same rigorous testing and quality control procedures. CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT: Hair is sewn onto cloth to ensure it remains in the proper orientation; Great Lengths doesn’t use outside buyers or brokers, but maintains facilities in three countries, staffed by 1,100 employees worldwide; hair undergoes Great Lengths’ proprietary colorization process, resulting in healthy hair in a wide range of consistent, colorfast hues. He adds that Great Lengths keeps a tight rein on quality by working directly with sources, not through hair brokers. “We operate and employ our own sourcing staff and facilities in India so that we’re always 100 percent sure of our hair’s source,” Butcher says. This results in hair of a predictably higher quality, the starting point for a superior end product. As hair is collected from the temples it’s separated by donor—referred to as single drawn—and is sent to the Great Lengths-operated facility in Bangalore, India. There it’s cleaned and tested to determine if it has had any previous chemical processing, including the use of henna. This is important because Great Lengths’ unique, patented coloration process is only effective on virgin hair. Once the hair has been deemed virgin quality, it’s separated by length—referred to as “double drawn”—and sent to the Great Lengths Factory in Nepi, Italy, where it undergoes coloration and bonding processes. “The only chemical processing performed on Great Lengths hair is our colorization,” Butcher explains. He adds that Great Lengths is the only company that doesn’t use any toxic chemicals such as ammonia or bleach derivatives in the depigmentation and coloring of hair, resulting in strands that are colorfast with a healthy texture and feel. “The benefit of our process goes beyond the hair quality,” Butcher says. “It also makes Great Lengths International the only company that can factually state that there’s no negative ecological impact from our production process. This point becomes magnified when compared with the significant negative eco-impact created by all other hair processing facilities, the overwhelming majority of which are located in China and Indonesia where there are no effective regulatory agencies to monitor such production.” • From the day the hair is sourced from the temple until the day it’s deliverable for application is 45 working days. • Hair is shipped from India to the Great Lengths factory in Nepi, Italy by air via a private courier. • Annually, Great Lengths processes more than 36 tons of hair, producing 30 million pre-bonded strands. • Including international distributors, the Great Lengths International group has 1,100 employees. • Great Lengths is distributed in 50 countries. KF: How does this affect what stylists FROM TOP: Great Lengths Education Director Darren Brokaw; Great Lengths’ certificaton program is intense and hands-on. iare able to achieve behind the chair and in their careers going forward? DB: As with any learned skill set, one can only excel after mastering the fundamentals. The Great Lengths classroom is designed to give stylists the fundamental understanding and skill set to deliver a highquality service of hair extension application. The reward of such service delivery, as many Great Lengths Certified Stylists will attest, doesn’t just change their professional future—it’s life-changing. Because this service can be life-changing for clients, it cements the bond with the stylist in a way that really goes beyond client retention—it builds relationships that can last an entire career. KF: I understand the GL Apps certification program is going to be online. Is it open to everyone? DB: The GL Apps certification will only be available to stylists who have already successfully completed our three-day certification for our premium application methods. KF: Will there be online forums for stylists using GL Apps to share their creativity and techniques? DB: Yes, just as there currently are for our premium methods. Great Lengths Certified Stylists have a passwordprotected stylist login at greatlengthsusa.com. Along with forums for asking questions and sharing ideas, the stylist login area also gives them GL co-op accrual information, year-to-date purchase history, marketing material access and Great Lengths Stylist news updates. % 00 ETHIC AL SETTING FAIR STANDARDS 00 L E KF: Given the company’s dedication to hands-on time in the classroom, why did you decide to offer GL Apps training online? DB: Because Great Lengths Certified Stylists have already completed the professional industry’s most intensive education in the application of extensions. Certifying online for GL Apps will be a cake walk for these stylists. 1 KF: Your educational programs have a terrific reputation. What makes the Great Lengths educational experience unique? DB: The difference is in the time dedicated to hands-on. Great Lengths USA recently reviewed the classroom curriculums of five major professional extension companies. We discovered that our threeday certification program dedicates nearly four times the amount of time to handson extension application and cutting techniques, covering a full range of application types. Our quality group of seasoned educators understands the importance of delivering a consistent message that gives stylists the skill set to deliver Great Lengths services to their clients’ expectations. When those clients seek Great Lengths extensions, rest assured their expectations are high, as they should be. 1 Great Lengths USA’s Education Director Darren Brokaw talks about the success of their high-touch approach to education. —Karen Ford % TR CEAB A Great Lengths is leading the way toward an upfront and principled hair extension industry by setting the benchmark in fair standards and inviting competitors to work towards a common ethical stance. Prospective customers can now seek the Great Lengths Setting Fair Standards Seal when researching salons for hair extensions. Additionally, every bundle of Great Lengths now proudly displays this seal. What The Great Lengths Setting Fair Standards Seal Represents When clients see the Great Lengths Setting Fair Standards Seal, they can rest assured that the hair used is 100% traceable, ethical and of the highest quality. The Setting Fair Standards Seal guarantees that Great Lengths® hair extensions have met the following criteria: • Every strand has been donated willingly and with the full consent of the donor • The donor has been treated with respect and care • A fair and reasonable price is agreed for the hair and the money used to procure the hair is used solely for charitable endeavors, not for personal or individual profit • A company representative has procured the hair to cut out unreliable middlemen and ensure full and direct knowledge of the origin of the hair • Exclusive in-house production processes are used from procurement of the hair to wholesale selling to ensure full traceability Great Lengths hopes that the Setting Fair Standards Seal will pave the way to unified ethical regulation of the hair extensions industry. To learn more, go to facebook.com/greatlengthsusa greatlengthsusa.com 800-999-0809 ©2013 HairUWear Inc. Transforming your clients will transform your professional future. The Great Lengths Certified Salon Network ©2013 HairUWear Inc. Where extraordinary stylists deliver extraordinary services to the industry’s most desired clients