kit no. sigrc67arf

Wingspan:
Wing Area:
Weight:
Wing Loading:
Length:
70 in.
900 sq.in.
5.5 - 6 lbs.
14 - 15 oz./sq.ft.
57 in.
Recommended Engines:
.40 - .46 cu.in. 2-stroke (not included)
.40 - .54 cu.in. 4-stroke (not included)
Radio: 4 Channel (not included)
KIT NO. SIGRC67ARF
WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY!
Engine powered model airplanes, like this SIG KADET, are not toys! Just like a full-size airplane, they fly at a high rate of speed and
are capable of causing serious bodily injury and property damage if they crash.
IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE TO:
( ) Assemble this model airplane correctly according to the plans and instructions.
( ) To ground test the model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy.
( ) To always fly your model in a safe approved location, away from populated areas.
( ) To always fly your model in a safe manner. Your first test flights should be made
with the assistance of an experienced R/C flyer.
LIMIT OF LIABILITY
The attention to detail and actions of the modeler in assembly and flying this model airplane will ultimately determine its success and
safety. Sig Manufacturing Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or missing. The user
shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
© Copyright 2002, SIG Manufacturing Company, Inc.
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the sport of Radio Control flying, and thank you for choosing the SIG KADET LT-40
ARF. In order for your KADET to fly as well as it was designed to, it must be properly assembled.
Work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. This kit features a proven aerodynamic design,
quality materials, and detailed instructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished model
depends on how well YOU put it all together.
CUSTOMER SERVICE
SIG Manufacturing Company, Inc. is totally committed to your success in building and flying the
KADET LT-40 ARF. Should you encounter any problems, or find any missing or damaged parts,
feel free to contact us by mail or telephone.
Mailing Address:
SIG MANUFACTURING COMPANY, INC.
P.O. Box 520
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
Telephone:
ORDER LINE: 1-800-247-5008
(to order parts)
MODELER'S HOTLINE: 1-641-623-0215
(for technical support)
Internet:
WEB SITE: www.sigmfg.com
E-MAIL: [email protected]
ARE YOU INSURED?
The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United States is the ACADEMY OF
MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimes referred to as the AMA. While AMA membership is not
mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliers to join the AMA. Membership in
the AMA provides you with important liability insurance protection in case your R/C model should
ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to someone else. Because of that liability
protection, most R/C clubs require AMA membership before you can fly at their field.
Join the AMA for the welfare of the hobby!
For more information, contact:
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
5161 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
PHONE: (765) 287-1256
WEB SITE: www.modelaircraft.org
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Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.
If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 800-247-5008.
Fuselage (1)
Right Wing (1)
Hatch (1)
Wing Joiner (1)
Right Aileron (1)
Left Wing (1)
Wing Bolt Plates
(2)
Aileron Servo
Mount (1)
Engine Mounts (2)
Left Aileron (1)
Nose Wheel (1)
Main Wheels (2)
Stabilizer (1)
Elevator (1)
Fuel Tubing, 12” long (1)
Fin (1)
Small Nylon Pushrod Tubing 1/8” od x 38” long (2)
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Rudder (1)
Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.
If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 800-247-5008.
10” Threaded Rods (6)
1/16” X 18” Straight Music Wire (2)
Main Gear Wires (2)
Nose Gear Bearing (1)
Nose Gear Wire (1)
Steering Arm (1)
Nylon R/C Links (6)
Aileron Connectors (2)
M2 Washer-Head Screw (1)
for Hatch
6-32 x 1/4”
Self-Tapping
Screw (1)
M2 x 12mm Bolts (4)
for Control Horns
Plastic Wheel Stops (3)
M3 x 14mm Bolts (4)
for Nose Gear
Metal Washers (4)
for Motor Mounts
M3 x 20mm Bolts (4)
for Motor Mounts
4-40 x 1” Slotted Rd.
Hd. Mounting Bolts (4)
for Engine
4-40 Lock Nuts (4)
for Engine
M3 Sheet Metal Screws (4)
for Landing Gear
Nylon Control Horns & Retainer Plates (2 sets)
1/4-20 x 1-1/2” Nylon Wing Bolts (2)
Landing Gear Straps (2)
Spinner (1)
4-40 x 1/8”
Socket Head Bolt
(2)
Pushrod
Connector
(2)
Hinges (14 total)
Screws (2)
Note:
6 hinges are with elevator & rudder.
8 hinges for ailerons are in a bag.
Nylon Retainer (2)
Plastic
Prop Shaft Adapter (1)
Backplate (1)
Metal Read Clamp (1)
Wheel Collars (3)
Metal Clunk (1)
Silicone Tubing (1)
Rubber Stopper (1)
Metal Front Clamp (1)
Wheel Collar
Set Screws
(3)
Fuel Tank (1)
Bolt (1)
Metal Tubes (2)
Decal Sheet #1
Decal Sheet #2
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ADDITIONAL ITEMS NEEDED
The following items are not supplied in this kit but are needed to complete the airplane. Because of the wide variety of brands
available and the influence of local preferences, the choice of these items is left to the builder to select. All of these items are
available at your local hobby shop.
.40 to .46 cu. in. 2-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler, or
.40 to .54 cu. in. 4-Stroke Glow R/C Engine w/Muffler
Engines larger than those listed are not recommended! Use of oversize engines will cause balance problems and may overload
the structure of the airplane. The KADET LT-40 has a light wing loading and does not need a super “hot” engine to fly well! Any
normally ported .40-.46 2-stroke glow R/C engine will provide adequate power to fly the KADET LT-40.
Propeller
Propellers are a subject that can fill a book all by themselves! There are a large variety of propeller sizes available, and selecting the best one to use on your KADET LT-40 will depend mostly on which engine you end up buying. Refer to the instruction
sheet that comes with your engine for a recommended propeller size. If the engine manufacturer lists several possible sizes, pick
the one that sounds like it is for a slower flying model - choose “sport or scale” instead of “pattern or racing”. Also, be sure to
read “THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL” book for more tips on propellers. As a general rule, if you are going to use a normal
.40 2-stroke glow R/C engine in your KADET LT-40, you will want a 10-6 propeller.
Radio Control System
You will need a (minimum) 4-channel radio control system with 4 servos to operate the ailerons, elevator, rudder, and engine throttle of your KADET LT-40. The KADET’s fuselage is spacious enough that any common brand of radio equipment with standard
size servos and battery pack can be used. Be certain that your radio system transmits on one of the FCC-approved frequencies
for R/C model aircraft. See “THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL” book for more information on radio equipment and frequencies.
1/2” x 8” x 12” Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIG #RF-240)
Used to protect your radio receiver and battery pack from damaging engine vibration. Also used as packing around the fuel tank
and radio components to keep them from shifting around in flight.
Glue
You will need both EPOXY GLUE and CA GLUE to assemble this model.
TOOLS
As the old saying goes, “Having the right tool makes the job easy”. That certainly holds true when putting together model airplanes. Below is a list of the tools we used to assemble our prototype KADET LT-40 ARFs. With the exception of the first item
(Modeling Knife), most of these are common household tools that you probably already have.
Modeling Knife (such as X-Acto #1 knife with extra #11 blades)
Available at your local hobby shop.
Tape (such as masking tape, clear tape, or plastic tape)
For holding parts together during assembly
We strongly recommend that you use a low-tack removable type of tape to avoid pulling the model’s covering loose.
Pins (such as SIG SH-307)
To temporarily hold model parts together during assembly.
90 degree Triangle (such as SIG #TR-036 Metal Triangle)
For squaring up parts during assembly.
Rubbing Alcohol
For cleaning off excess epoxy glue.
Paper Towels
For cleanup.
Soapy Water Solution
To assist in putting large decals on the model without getting air bubbles (see SECTION 3: DECALS, Step 2). This can be water
mixed with a small amount of dish soap, or you can use "Sig Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner", "Fantastic", "Windex", or "409"
type cleaners.
Fine-Point Felt-Tip Pen or Pencil
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TOOLS (cont.)
Ruler and/or Tape Measure
Assorted Screwdrivers (small flat, medium flat, small phillips)
Regular Pliers and Needle-Nose Pliers
For cutting, bending, and shaping pushrod wires.
Drill and 1/16”, 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32” Drill Bits
Flat File
For removing burrs and sharp edges from wire parts.
80 or 100 Grit Sandpaper
We prefer either garnet or silicone carbide type open-coat sandpaper.
FLIGHT EQUIPMENT
To get your engine started and your airplane in the air, you will need the following standard equipment when you go to the flying
field.
Gallon of Glow Fuel (typically 10% nitro fuel for a .40-.46 2-stroke glow engine)
Fuel Pump or Fuel Bulb (to get the fuel into the airplane’s fuel tank)
Glow Plug Clip and 1-1/2 volt Starting Battery
Electric Starter or “Chicken Stick”
A NOTE ABOUT LOOSE COVERING MATERIAL
Upon inspection you may find that some of the plastic covering on your model appears to be loose or wrinkled. If that’s the case,
there is no need to be alarmed. The covering is not defective! These parts are covered with SIG AeroKote™, one of the premier
model coverings in the world. The covering material was applied at the ARF factory in China. During transport to the U.S., the
model may be subjected to a wide variety of temperature and humidity fluctuations. Extreme climate changes can cause plastic
covering to loosen! That’s a fact of life in the model airplane hobby.
The plastic covering material can be easily re-tightened with the application of heat. There are special tools (covering iron and
heat gun) available at your local hobby shop that are made just for shrinking this type of plastic covering material. However, if
you don’t want to invest in these tools at this time, we’d suggest that you talk to your hobby dealer, or the local model airplane
club. They will undoubtably have someone with these tools who would be willing to help you retighten your covering. If you don’t
want to bother getting assistance, another alternative is to use a regular household iron to retighten the covering. It’s a little
cumbersome because of the weight and shape of the household iron, but it certainly can be done. It’s best to start at the bottom
of the household iron’s “steam” setting (but without water!) and try it. If it isn’t shrinking the covering adequetly, move the
temperature a little higher and try again. What you’re looking for is a temperature of approximately 220O F - 250O F (104O C 121O C) to shrink AeroKote™.
REMEMBER THIS . . .
ANY REFERENCES TO RIGHT OR LEFT IN THIS BOOK
REFERS TO YOUR RIGHT OR LEFT AS IF YOU WERE
SEATED IN THE COCKPIT OF THE AIRPLANE!
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Part 1: HINGING THE CONTROL SURFACES
1-1. Let’s start by hinging the Rudder to the Fin. Look carefully and
you’ll find that the slots for the hinges are already pre-cut in the
parts. Sometimes, because of the way the covering lays over the
slots, the slots may be a little hard to see. In this photo, we’ve taken
a felt tip pen and marked the hinge slots on the Fin and Rudder so
that you can see where to look for them. Once you’ve found them,
insert a single hinge HALFWAY into each hinge slot in the Fin.
DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES AT THIS TIME!
1-2. Now carefully slide the Rudder onto the exposed half of the
hinges. You will find it easiest to slide the Rudder onto the hinges at
angle, one hinge at a time, instead of trying to push it straight onto
all the hinges at once. Don't be overly concerned if the hinges don't
end up perfectly straight or centered in the slots - they do not have
a center line.
AGAIN, DO NOT GLUE THE HINGES IN AT THIS TIME!
1-3. To set the proper amount of gap between the Fin and Rudder,
simply deflect the Rudder to the maximum amount of travel needed.
This will automatically set the proper hinge gap! Keep in mind that
for best control response the gap should be kept as small as
possible, but big enough to allow full movement of the control
surface. Make sure everything is functioning properly before
proceeding to the next step.
1-4. Carefully place three or four drops of Thin CA glue directly onto
the hinge in the gap. You will notice that the glue is quickly wicked
into the slot as it penetrates both the wood and the hinge. Turn the
part over and glue the other side of the hinge. Continue this process
until you have glued both sides of all the hinges! Keep a rag handy
to wipe off any excess Thin CA glue. (If you get some glue smears
on the plastic covering, don't worry about them right now. Once all
the hinging is done, you can clean the smears off the covering with
CA Debonder).
1-5. Let the glue dry a minimum of 3-5 minutes before flexing the
hinges. At first you might notice a little stiffness in the joint. This will
go away after the hinges have been flexed back and forth a couple
dozen times.
VERY IMPORTANT: It's critical that you only make one application of glue to each side of a CA Hinge! If you apply additional glue
to the hinge after the first application of glue is already dry, the second application of glue will merely puddle in the hinge gap and
make the hinge too stiff to operate properly. The excess glue could also weaken the hinge! When properly glued, the portion of
the hinge that you can see in the hinge gap should have a dry appearance, not wet. A dry appearance indicates that almost all of
the glue has properly soaked into the hinge slot. A wet appearance indicates that excess glue is puddled in the hinge gap. Three
to four good size drops of Thin CA should be about the right amount. NEVER USE CA ACCELERATOR ON CA HINGES!
1-6. Next hinge the Elevator to the
Stabilizer by repeating Steps 1-1
thru 1-5.
Use four hinges as shown here. The
hinge slots are already pre-cut in the
wood.
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1-7. Next locate the Right Wing Panel and the Right Aileron.
To determine which aileron is the Right Aileron, you will
have to carefully compare the tip ends of both ailerons.
There is a difference between the shape of the tip end of the
Right Aileron and the tip end of the Left Aileron! Hold the
aileron in place on the wing to see which aileron blends
better with the shape of the wing tip.
1-8. The square end of the Right Aileron is pre-drilled and
pre-notched to fit over the Torque Rod Wire that is already
installed in the Right Wing Panel. Trial fit (no glue) the
Aileron over the Torque Rod Wire to check the fit, before you
proceed.
NOTE: If it doesn't go on smoothly, you may have to alter
the notch in the aileron (with a modeling knife) and/or the
hole (with a 3/32" drill bit) just a little bit until it does.
1-9. Hinging the Aileron to the Wing
will be a little bit different than what
you've already done because you
must also glue the Torque Rod Wire
into the Aileron at the same time.
Use four hinges for each Aileron as
shown here. The hinge slots are
already pre-cut in the wood.
1-10. Mix up a small batch of slow-drying Epoxy Glue
according to the glue manufacturer's instructions. Use a
small wire or a toothpick to coat the inside of the hole and
the notch for the Torque Rod Wire. Don't use an excessive
amount of glue - just enough to completely coat the inside
surfaces of the hole and notch. Too much glue might ooze
out when the wire is put in, and the excess could bind up the
control movement after the glue dries.
1-11. Now comes the tricky part! Slide the Aileron onto the
hinges, starting with the hinge nearest the wingtip. As you
slide the last hinge in, insert Torque Rod Wire into the
Aileron at the same time. It's a bit tedious, but if you work
patiently, you can get it done. After you've got everything
inserted, check to see if any Epoxy Glue oozed out around
the Torque Rod Wire. If so, wipe it off with a paper towel and
rubbing alcohol.
1-12. Complete the hinging of the Aileron by repeating Steps 1-3, 1-4, and 1-5 for the final gluing with Thin CA.
1-13. Repeat Steps 1-7 thru 1-12 to hinge the Left Aileron to the Left Wing.
IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT CA HINGES
WARNING: The CA Hinges provided in this kit are made of a special absorbant material that can
only be glued with Thin CA adhesive. Thin CA (any brand) is the ONLY type of glue that can be
used on these Hinges - do not use epoxy or any other type of glue! Also, never use CA Accelerator
on CA Hinges!
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Part 2: WING ASSEMBLY
NOTE: The next 4 Steps of this section involve gluing the Right and Left Wing Panels permanently together. You should be
prepared to accomplish these 4 Steps in one session, without stopping for anything. In fact, it's best if you read through these 4
Steps before beginning, so that you will have a good understanding of the sequence we are about to start.
2-1. Mix up an ample amount of slow-drying Epoxy Glue.
Use a wire, stick, or small brush to thoroughly coat the
inside of the wing joiner slot in the end of the Wing Panels
with Epoxy. Be sure to apply glue inside the slots of BOTH
the Left and Right Wing Panels.
NOTE: It’s very important that you use plenty of Epoxy
Glue during these steps. The strength of your wing joint
depends on it! Use enough glue so that when you put the
pieces together, excess glue oozes out of the joints. You
can always clean up the excess epoxy glue with a paper
towel soaked in rubbing alcohol.
2-2. Coat one half of the wing Joiner with Epoxy Glue and
slide it into one Wing Panel.
NOTE: During this step, you should have enough glue in
the slot and on the Wing Joiner that the excess glue oozes
out of the slot when you push the Wing Joiner in.
2-3. Apply a liberal amount of Epoxy Glue to the end ribs of
BOTH Wing Panels, and to the exposed end of the Wing
Joiner.
2-4. Slide the other Wing Panel onto the Wing Joiners and
up tight against the first panel. Firmly press the Wing
Panels together and wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue with a
paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Make sure the two Wing
Panels are accurately aligned with each other, and then use
tape to hold them in place while the Epoxy Glue dries. Set
the wing aside and let it dry completely (overnight if
possible) before proceeding.
NOTE: If possible, get someone to help you with this step.
An extra set of hands makes the job much easier. While
one person holds the two Wing Panels firmly together in
correct alignment, the other person can clean off the excess
glue and tape the Wing Panels together.
2-5. After the Epoxy Glue has FULLY cured, you can
remove the tape. Peel the tape off slowly, back over the top
of itself, to avoid loosening the covering material.
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2-6. Locate the plywood Aileron Servo Mount. This piece
goes on the bottom of the wing to reinforce the cutout where
the aileron servo will be mounted. Hold the mount in place,
lining up the inner edges with the cutout in the wing. Then
carefully mark the wing surface around the outside of the
mount with a fine-point felt-tip pen.
2-7. Next use a modeling knife to carefully cut through the
plastic wing covering along the lines you made in the
previous step.
CAUTION: DO NOT PRESS HARD ENOUGH TO CUT
INTO THE BALSA WING SHEETING - CUT ONLY
THROUGH THE PLASTIC COVERING! THE KEY IS TO
USE A GOOD SHARP BLADE AND GLIDE IT ALONG THE
LINES WITHOUT HAVING TO PUSH THE BLADE DOWN.
Peel the covering away where the mount will be glued.
2-8. Epoxy Glue the plywood Aileron Servo Mount in place.
Use enough glue to fill the gaps along the sides of the
mount.
2-9. Locate the two plywood Wing Bolt Plates, which provide
support to the wing bolts. Notice that only one side of the
plates is covered. The uncovered side is to be glued onto the
top surface of the wing. First hold the Wing Bolt Plates in
position on the wing, lining up the holes in the plates with the
holes in the wing. Carefully remove the covering material
from the wing using the same methods used in Steps 2-6 and
2-7 above. Then glue the Wing Bolt Plates in place.
2-10. This step is OPTIONAL! Some R/Cers like to cover the
wing center joint with 1/2" wide plastic trim tape, or a 1/2"
wide strip of covering material "trim sheet", to give the wing a
more finished appearance. If you want to do this on your
Kadet, your local hobby shop should have a selection of trim
sheet or wide striping tape in various colors to do this.
2-11. Screw a Nylon Aileron Connector onto each of the
Torque Rod Wires. Screw them down until the entire Aileron
Connector is completely on the wire - the end of the wire
should be flush with the top of the Aileron Connector.
THE WING IS NOW BASICALLY DONE!
Set it aside until you get to the section of the book
about RADIO INSTALLATION.
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Part 3: APPLYING THE DECALS
3-1. Cut the decals for the Right Fin and the Left Fin out of
Decal Sheet No. 1. using a sharp modeling knife and
straight edge. Trim as close to the image as possible.
NOTE: Keep the black and red decals for each side of the
Fin together as one unit. In other words, do not seperate
the black and red parts that go on the same side of the Fin.
Apply them as one decal! There is no need to apply them
as two seperate decals. This is also true of the red and
black decals for each side of the Fuselage and Wing - apply
them as one unit to save time.
3-2. Putting large decals (like these for the Fin) on a model
often leaves unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath
the decal. Here's a method that eliminates the problem
entirely!
First spray the surface of the Fin where the decal will be
placed with water mixed with a small amount of dish soap
(you can also use "Sig Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner",
"Fantastic®", "Windex®", or "409®" type cleaners). Then peel
the paper backing sheet completely off the decal, being
careful not to let the sticky side double over and adhere to
itself. Place the decal onto the wet surface of the model.
The soapy water solution will keep the decal from actually
sticking to the model until you have had time to shift it
around into exact position. Once you have it in position, use
a piece of stiff cardboard (or sheet balsa, thin plywood, or a
SIG SH678 Epoxy Spreader) to squeegee the excess soapy
water out from under the decal. Mop up the water with a
paper towel. Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the
soapy water out from under the decal as possible.
3-3. Turn the Fin over and apply the decal to the other side
in the same manner.
3-4. Apply the Windshield decal next. This piece is small
enough that you can apply it dry, without using any soapy
water. Note in the picture that it should go on flush with the
bottom of the plywood windshield. Also notice that there is
approximately 1/4" overhang on each side of the front decal.
Wrap this overhang down onto the sides of the fuselage.
3-5. Apply all 3 Left Side Windows in one piece. Do not cut
them apart! Applying them as a single piece will allow you
to keep them lined up with each other. Use the soapy water
method outlined in Step 3-2 to allow you to slide the Side
Windows into perfect alignment with the Windshield. Once
you have them properly positioned, squeegee the soapy
water from underneath the Side Windows.
3-6. Apply the Right Side Windows in the same manner you
did the Left Side Windows.
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3-7. The Fuselage Side decals should also be applied wet. Put on the rear section of the Fuselage Side decal first - then apply
the front section, overlapping it about 1/8" onto the rear section.
3-8. Cut out and apply the decals to the top of the wings. Apply wet.
3-9. Allow all the decals to dry overnight! When completely dry, wash off any soap smears with a clean wet rag.
WARNING
Do not paint over the kit decals! Butyrate dope, lacquer, enamel, and many other paints will dissolve the
decals. SIG Manufacturing Company, Inc. does not recommend top coating the decals in this kit. They are
already fuel-proof!
If you insist on top coating your decals, be sure to test for compatibility on a scrap decal before applying
the paint.
Part 4: FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
4-2. Put the Hatch in place on the Fuselage (the Hatch
tongue should slide underneath the front lip of the
Windshield). In the middle of the front edge of the Hatch,
drill a 1/16" dia. pilot hole thru the Hatch and into the top of
the firewall. Screw the Hatch down with the M2 WasherHead Screw provided.
12
4-3. Draw a center-line on the area of the Fuselage where
the Stabilizer will be mounted.
If your Fuselage has any covering material from the sides
overlapping onto the Stabilizer mounting area, trim it off at
this time.
4-4. Use a 90 degree triangle as shown to draw a centerline down the middle of the top of the Stabilizer.
4-5. Set the Stabilizer in place on the Fuselage. Line up the
center-line on the Stabilizer with the center-line on the
Fuselage. Use pins to secure the Stabilizer in position.
Push the pins completely thru the Stabilizer and into the
Fuselage.
4-6. Set the Stabilizer in place on the Fuselage. Line up the
center-line on the Stabilizer with the center-line on the
Fuselage. Use pins to secure the Stabilizer in position.
Push the pins completely thru the Stabilizer and into the
Fuselage.
4-7. Lift the rear of the Fuselage up, without jarring the
Stabilizer loose, enough to enable you to mark the location
of both Fuselage sides on the bottom of the Stabilizer.
13
4-8. Remove the Stabilizer from the Fuselage and carefully strip away the covering material on the bottom, between
the two lines, where the Stabilizer will be glued to the
Fuselage. CUT THE COVERING LIGHTLY ALONG THE
LINES. AVOID CUTTING THE WOOD UNDERNEATH THE
COVERING MATERIAL!
4-9. It's best to glue the Stabilizer permanently onto the
Fuselage with slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Mix the Epoxy and
spread a generous coat evenly on the area of the Fuselage
where the Stabilizer goes. Remount the Stabilizer onto the
Fuselage, using the edges of the cutaway covering on the
bottom to get the Stabilizer back into correct alignment on
the Fuselage. Press the Stabilizer down firmly and pin it in
correct position. Use a paper towel and rubbing alcohol to
wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue that oozes out of the joint.
Let this joint dry completely before proceeding.
4-10. Cut away the covering that is over the hole in the top
of the Fuselage where the leading edge of the Fin will go.
4-11. Trial fit the Fin/Rudder assembly on the fuselage,
sticking the leading edge of the Fin thru the hole in the top
of the Fuselage. Carefully line up the trailing edge of the Fin
with the center-line on the top of the Stabilizer. Draw along
both sides of the Fin, marking its location on the top of the
Fuselage and Stabilizer. Take the Fin/Rudder assembly off
the Fuselage and strip away the covering material inside the
lines.
4-12. Mix up a small batch of slow-drying Epoxy Glue and
coat the area where the Fin will go. Remount the Fin onto
the Fuselage, line it up as before, and pin it firmly in position
until the glue dries. Use a 90 degree triangle to insure that
the Fin dries perpendicular to the Stabilizer.
Part 5: LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
5-1. Locate the two pre-bent Main Gear Wires and the prebent Nose Gear Wire. Inspect the ends of all the wires for
burrs. If any are found, use a file or sandpaper to remove
them.
14
5-2. Locate three 5/32" Wheel Collars and three Set Screws.
Thread a Set Screw halfway into each Wheel Collar.
5-3. Press a Plastic Wheel Stop onto the axle portion of the
one of the Main Gear Wires. Slide it all the way along the
axle, and up tight against the bend in the wire. Then install
a 3" dia. Main Wheel and a 5/32" Wheel Collar on the axle
as shown. Tighten the wheel collar Set Screw firmly. Make
sure the wheel turns freely. Repeat the process to make a
second Main Gear Wire assembly.
5-4. Fit the Main Gear Wires into the grooved block in the
bottom of the Fuselage. Holes have been pre-drilled in the
block to receive the short upper arm of the gear wires. Push
the wires down tight into the groove.
Note: If the wire doesn't want to fit completely down into the
groove of the landing gear block, it may be necessary to
remove a little material from the inside edge of the hole to
allow for the radius of the bend in the wire. Do this with a
round file or a modeling knife.
5-5. Place the two nylon Landing Gear Straps over the Main
Gear Wires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four
1/16" pilot holes for the screws. Use four M3 Sheet Metal
Screws to mount the straps.
15
5-6. Install a Plastic Wheel Stop, the 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel
and a 5/32” Wheel Collar on the axle of the Nose Gear Wire.
Make sure the wheel turns freely!
5-7. Bolt the nylon Nose Gear Bearing in place on the front
of the firewall using the four M3 x 14mm Bolts provided.
Note that M3 Blind Nuts are pre-mounted in the back of
the firewall for the Nose Gear Bearing. After you have the
bearing bolted in place, put a little Med or Thick CA Glue on
the flanges of the Blind Nuts to keep them from coming
loose. Do not get any CA Glue in the threads of the Blind
Nuts or on the Bolts.
5-8. Thread the 6-32 x 1/4" Self-Tapping Screw part way
into the hole in the front of the nylon Steering Arm.
5-9. Hold the Steering Arm in position in the Nose Gear
Bearing while you insert the top end of the Nose Gear Wire
up through the holes in the bearing and steering arm. Push
the wire in until the top of the coil is about 1/2" away from
the bottom of the fuselage. Snug up the Self-Tapping Screw
in the Steering Arm just enough to get a slight grip on the
Nose Gear Wire (keep it loose enough that you can adjust
the steering arm position in the next step).
5-10. Align the Nose Wheel so it points straight ahead.
Adjust the Steering Arm position on the Nose Gear Wire so
that the outer hole in the arm is about 5/8" away from the
front of the firewall when the wheel is pointed straight
ahead. Then tighten the Self-Tapping Screw on the
Steering Arm securely!
NOTE: This slightly forward angle to the Steering Arm
is necessary to allow the steering arm to turn to the left
without hitting the front of the firewall.
16
Part 6: ENGINE MOUNTING
6-1. Bolt the Engine Mounts in place on the front of the
Firewall with four M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts and four M3
Flat Metal Washers. Leave the Mounting Bolts slightly loose
for the moment - do not tighten them until the next step.
6-2. Set your engine in place on the beams of the Engine
Mounts. If the beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit
your engine, slide the mounts closer together. If they are
already too close together, slide them apart. Notice that the
holes in the mounts for the mounting bolts are slotted to
allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine. After you
get the mounts in correct position, tighten up all four
Mounting Bolts, securing the Engine Mounts on the Firewall.
6-3. Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts
until the front of the engine's thrust washer is 4-3/8" from the
front of the Firewall.
6-4. Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing
exactly straight forward, and then mark the locations of the
engine mounting holes onto the beams of the Engine
Mounts.
6-5. Unbolt the Engine Mounts from the Firewall and drill
holes thru the beams of the Mounts at each location. We
recommend that you secure the Engine Mounts in a vise
while you drill the holes. Also, if at all possible, use a drill
press to drill these holes. You can drill them by hand, but if
you have access to a drill press, the job will be much easier and the holes will be straighter.
NOTE: We have provided 4-40 x 1" Mounting Bolts and
4-40 Aircraft Lock Nuts for mounting your engine to the
Engine Mounts. Unfortunately, engines in the .40 to .46 size
range are right at the break point between using 4-40 size
or 6-32 size mounting bolts. In other words, some .40-.46
engines have small holes in their case for 4-40 bolts only,
while other .40-.46 engines have holes large enough to
accommodate 6-32 bolts. If your engine allows 6-32 bolts,
and you want to use that size, you will have to obtain those
bolts and nuts from your local hobby shop.
Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 Bolts provided.
Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 Mounting Bolts.
17
6-6. When you're finished drilling the holes, securely bolt the engine to the Engine Mounts. Then bolt the entire engine/engine
mount assembly back onto the front of the Firewall. Tighten all bolts and nuts securely.
6-7. Look inside the nose of the airplane at the back side of the firewall. Put a few drops of glue on the flanges of all the Blind
Nuts to keep them from coming loose. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the Blind Nuts.
6-8. Refer to the instructions that came with your engine,
and also to the chapter on "PROPELLERS" in "THE
BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL" book, to select the correct
size propeller to use on your engine.
6-9. Choose the correct diameter Prop Shaft Adapter ring
to fit your engine's crankshaft. Press the adapter ring into
the hole in the middle of the spinner Backplate.
6-10. Slide the spinner Backplate on to the engine’s
crankshaft, followed by the Propeller, then the Prop Washer,
and finally the Prop Nut. Tighten the Prop Nut just finger
tight for now.
6-11. Slip the Spinner in place and check to see if the
Propeller clears the openings. If necessary, loosen the Prop
Nut, reposition the Propeller, re-tighten the Prop Nut, and
then check again. Adjust as many times as necessary to
make sure that the Propeller comes out the center of the
openings. THE PROPELLER MUST NOT TOUCH THE
SPINNER! When you have it in the right position, tighten
the Prop Nut.
6-12. Install the Spinner to the Backplate using the two
small Screws provided.
Part 7: RADIO INSTALLATION
NOTE: The receiver and servos of different brand radios are not all the same size! Consequently, it is practically impossible for
us to guarantee that every word and picture in this next sequence will pertain exactly to your installation. As you go along, you
may notice some differences between your radio equipment and ours. Nonetheless, most of the radio system components will be
close enough in size and appearance that you should be able to figure out for yourself how to handle any minor differences. Follow
the instructions as closely as possible. If you have any questions, seek the advice of an experienced modeler. The installation of
the control system in your new model is very important! It must be done correctly in order for your airplane to fly successfully.
INSTALL THE SWITCH
7-1. The first step is to mount the radio's on/off switch in the
left side of the fuselage (the side away from the exhaust).
Start by using the switch cover plate as a template to mark
the location and size of the opening and the two holes
for the mounting screws. Use a modeling knife to cut the
opening. Use a 1/16" dia. drill to make the holes for the
screws. Install the switch.
CAUTION: Make sure the opening for the switch's on/off
lever is just slightly bigger than the lever, so that the switch
will operate safely, without catching or binding on the wood.
18
MOUNTING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS
7-2. Mount your throttle, elevator, and rudder servos in the
plywood Servo Tray using the screws and rubber grommets
that came with your radio system. Be sure to orient the
servos in the tray as shown here.
CAUTION: The rubber grommets that came with your servos act as shock absorbers and prevent engine vibration
from damaging the electronics in the servos. Do not over
tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they
compress the rubber grommets so far that the grommets
loose all shock absorbing ability. Tighten the screws just
enough to make contact with the grommets and keep the
servos in place.
NOSE GEAR CONTROL HOOKUP
7-4. Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the
outermost hole of the nose gear Steering Arm. Install the
Pushrod Connector on the BOTTOM of the Steering Arm.
7-5. A piece of straight Music Wire 1/16" dia. x 18" long is
provided to make the nose gear pushrod. Use a diagonal
cutting pliers to cut the piece to 14-1/2" long. Remove any
burrs from the ends of the wire with a file.
7-6. Make a "Z-BEND" in one end of the 14-1/2” wire. This
will be the end of the pushrod that attaches to the rudder
servo. See “MAKING A Z-BEND IN 5 EASY STEPS” below.
MAKING A “Z-BEND” IN 5 EASY STEPS
Z-Bend Step 1:
Using a pencil or felt-tip pen, put a mark 1/4” from the
end of the wire you want the “Z-BEND” in.
Then make another mark 3/16” past the first mark.
19
Z-Bend Step 2:
With a standard pliers, bend the wire 90 degrees,
as tight as you can, at the 1/4” mark (the mark
nearest the end of the wire).
Z-Bend Step 3:
Now, put another tight 90 degree bend at the
second mark, perpendicular to the first bend, as
shown.
Z-Bend Step 4:
Next, grip the end of the wire as shown, and twist
the end into proper alignment with the rest of the
wire.
20
Z-Bend Step 5:
Use a needle nose pliers to "tweek" (fine tune) the
bends, if needed.
7-7. Notice that a plastic pushrod tube is already installed,
(but not glued), in the fuselage for the nose gear steering.
Slide the unbent end of the nose gear pushrod wire (from
Step 7-6) inside the plastic pushrod tube, starting from the
servo end. As the plain end of the wire exits the firewall,
insert it into the pushrod connector on the steering arm. At
the other end, insert the “Z-Bend” into the outermost hole of
the servo arm.
NOTE: If you have difficulty getting the "Z-BEND" into the
servo arm, check for burrs on the end of the wire. The holes
in servo arms are typically 1/16" dia. (same as the wire
you're installing) to provide a snug fit. You don't want the
holes too loose - a sloppy fit could lead to control surface
"flutter" while flying. However, occasionally you will run into
servo arms that shrank a little too much when they were
molded, and/or wire that may be slightly on the large side of
tolerance. If that happens, and you simply cannot get the
wire to go into the hole, you may have to run a 1/16" dia. drill
bit thru the holes to make a little more room.
7-8. Point the nose wheel straight ahead, check that the
rudder servo is in neutral position, and then tighten the set
screw in the pushrod connector on the steering arm.
7-9. Adjust the position of the plastic pushrod tubing on the
music wire until only about 1/8" of tubing is sticking out past
the front of the firewall. Then glue the plastic pushrod
tubing permanently in the hole in the left side of the fuselage
former at the front of the cabin.
7-10. Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the
operation of the nose gear. If you sense any binding in the
nose gear movement, find the cause and fix it now.
NOTE: The exact amount of nose wheel travel is not as
critical as the other flight control surfaces will be. A good
rule of thumb, especially for new pilots, is that less travel of
the nose wheel is better than more! You do not need any
more than 10O-15O of travel each way!
21
THROTTLE CONTROL HOOKUP
7-11. Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the middle hole of the throttle servo control arm.
7-12. A piece of straight Music Wire 1/16" dia. x 18" long is provided to make the throttle pushrod. Use a diagonal cutting pliers
to cut the piece to 15" long. Remove any burrs from the ends of the wire with a file.
7-13. Put a "Z-BEND" in one end of the pushrod wire. This will be the end of the pushrod that hooks up to the engine's throttle.
7-14. Just back from that "Z-BEND" you need to put 2 more bends in this wire to move the "Z-BEND" over in line with the engine's
throttle arm. If you are using a typical .40-.46 size 2-stroke engine, with a standard carburetor, bend your wire to match the
pattern shown here. It should work in most cases!
NOTE: This offset in the throttle pushrod wire may need to
be slightly different depending upon the exact location of
your engine's carburetor control arm. Some arms may be a
little closer to the fuselage side, while some may be closer
to the engine's center-line. For most 2-stroke .40-.46
R/C engines it will simply be a matter of increasing or
decreasing the angle of these two bends to change the total
distance of the offset in the wire. If you need to change
the bends, change both bends the same amount, always
keeping the two legs of the wire parallel to each other.
7-15. Unbolt the engine/engine mounts from the firewall so
that you can insert the "Z-BEND" into the bottom hole of the
engine's throttle arm.
7-16. A plastic pushrod tube is already installed (but not
glued) inside the fuselage for the throttle pushrod. Slide the
unbent end of the throttle pushrod wire inside the plastic
tube as you re-bolt your engine/engine mounts to the
firewall.
7-17. Hold the throttle control arm in high throttle position,
put the throttle servo in high throttle position, and then
tighten the set screw in the pushrod connector at the servo.
7-18. Adjust the position of the nylon pushrod tubing on the
music wire until only about 1/8" of tubing is sticking out past
the front of the firewall. Then glue the nylon pushrod tubing
permanently in the holes in the firewall and fuselage former.
7-19. Plug the throttle servo into the receiver and test the
operation of the throttle pushrod. If there is any binding in
the throttle movement, find the cause and fix it now. Make
adjustments to the throttle pushrod setup until you can
achieve these results:
TX STICK TRIM LEVER
Forward
Forward
Back
Forward
Back
Back
22
CARBURETOR
Fully Open
Slightly Open
Fully Closed
RESULT
High Speed
Good Idle
Kill Engine
STICK FORWARD
TRIM FORWARD
HIGH SPEED
STICK BACK
TRIM FORWARD
GOOD IDLE
STICK BACK
TRIM BACK
KILL ENGINE
NOTE: Adjusting carburetor linkage can be a little tricky! If you have binding, check for an incorrect amount of offset
(bend) in the pushrod wire at the carburetor. If necessary, re-bend the wire to eliminate the bind. If the throttle servo
is binding or “stalling” because it has too much travel compared to the carburetor travel, you will need to move the
pushrod connectors to different holes in the servo or carburetor arms. You may also have to loosen one of the pushrod
connectors to re-adjust the overall pushrod length. All or some of these things may need to be adjusted to get the
carburetor working properly. Refer to “THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL” book for additional help.
CONTROL HORN BASICS
Item 1) Sometimes the holes in molded plastic control horns and
servo arms end up being a little undersize, making it very hard to
install the R/C Links and Pushrod Connectors that attach to them. All
of the R/C Links and Pushrod Connectors in this kit have a pin size
of 1/16” dia. If you have difficulty getting the pins to go into the holes
in the control horns or servo arms, open up the holes with a 1/16”
dia. drill bit. DO NOT USE A BIT LARGER THAN 1/16” DIAMETER!
Item 2) Nylon control horns should always be mounted so that the
adjustment holes in the control arm line up with the hinge line of the
control surfaces! If not, the control surface will have unequal travel
in one direction.
Item 3) Some radios have a feature called “End Point Adjustment”
(sometimes called “Adjustable Travel Volume”) that allows the user to
electronically adjust the total travel of the servos, and thus, the total
travel of the control surfaces. This is a very handy feature! If you
do not have this radio feature, you can still make control surface
travel adjustments by mechanical means. Move the linkages in the
directions shown to get more or less travel.
23
RUDDER CONTROL HOOKUP
7-20. Locate a Nylon Control Horn, Retainer Plate, and two
M2 x 12mm Bolts for the Rudder. Hold the Control Horn in
position on the left side of the rudder and mark the location
of the mounting holes. Drill pilot holes through the rudder
with a 1/16" dia. drill bit (turn the bit with your fingers, a drill
is not necessary). Mount the Control Horn onto the rudder
with the Bolts and Retainer Plate.
NOTE: Tighten the bolts down until both the control horn
and retainer plate make firm contact with the balsa. Then,
turn each bolt in 1/2 turn further. By tightening the bolts in
this manner, the control horn will not crush the balsa.
7-21. Cut one of the 10" Threaded Rods to 5" overall length.
Cut the plain end of the rod, not the threaded end!
Coat all of the unthreaded portion of the 5” rod with a very
thin layer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to
the next step before the glue dries.
7-22. Locate one piece of Small Nylon Pushrod Tubing (1/8"
O.D. x 38" long) to make the rudder pushrod. Slide the glue
coated end of the 5" long threaded rod (from Step 7-21)
inside the tubing, all the way up to the beginning of the
threads. Now get a good grip on the threaded portion of the
rod, and start screwing the threads into the tubing. Keep
turning the rod until at least 3/16" of threads are inside the
nylon tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue, and set the
assembly aside to dry.
NOTE: If you need to hold onto the threaded portion of the
rod to screw it in, use a cloth between the rod and the jaws
of your pliers to avoid damaging the threads.
7-23. Screw one of the Nylon R/C Links onto the threads
remaining outside the nylon pushrod tube. Screw it halfway
onto the exposed threads - until there are the same amount
of exposed threads in front and back of the R/C Link.
7-24. Slide the rudder pushrod (from the rudder end) inside
the larger pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage.
Slide it in until the nylon R/C Link is even with the rudder
control horn. Pry open the R/C link, clip it into the outermost
hole of the control horn, and then snap it shut. Now reach
into the fuselage and try operating the rudder pushrod from
the servo end. It should work smooth and easy. If not,
figure out why and fix it now before proceeding.
7-25. Set the rudder in neutral position. Mark the servo end
of the rudder pushrod tube exactly 1" from the hole in the
rudder servo arm. Cut off the tube at the mark, using a
sharp razor blade or modeling knife.
24
7-26. Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall
length. Coat the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin
layer of epoxy glue. Immediately slide the plain end of the
rod inside the servo end of the rudder pushrod tube. Screw
at least 3/16" of threads into the tubing. Wipe off any excess
epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C link
halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. Clip the
R/C link into the rudder servo arm.
7-27. Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the
operation of the rudder. If you sense any binding in the
rudder movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full right
and left movement of the transmitter's rudder control stick,
the rudder should move approximately 1" right and 1" left.
NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of rudder
travel, try moving the nylon R/C link to a different hole in the
servo arm (see "Control Horn Basics). Also, fine tune the
overall length of the rudder pushrod, by screwing one or both
of the nylon R/C links further in or out, until the rudder is
neutral when the transmitter stick and trim lever are neutral.
ELEVATOR CONTROL HOOKUP
7-28. Mount a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the
Elevator using two M2 x 12mm Bolts. Make sure the
Elevator Horn is in the center of the tail opening so that the
R/C link won't bind on the fuse sides.
7-29. Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall
length. Coat all of the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very
thin layer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to
the next step before the glue dries.
7-30. Locate another piece of Small Nylon Pushrod Tubing
(1/8" O.D. x 38" long) to make the elevator pushrod. Slide
the plain end of the 7" long threaded rod inside the tubing,
all the way up to the beginning of the threads. Then screw
at least 3/16" of threads inside the tubing. Wipe off any
excess epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C
link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod.
7-31. Slide the Small Nylon Pushrod Tube inside the larger
pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage - start at the
elevator end. Slide it in until the Nylon R/C Link can be
snapped into the bottom hole of the elevator Control Horn.
7-32. Set the elevator in neutral position. Cut off the end
of the elevator pushrod tube exactly 1" from the hole in the
elevator servo arm.
7-33. Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall
length. Coat the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin
layer of epoxy glue. Immediately slide the plain end of the
rod inside the servo end of the elevator pushrod tube.
Screw at least 3/16" of threads into the tubing. Wipe off any
excess epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C
link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod. Clip
the R/C link into the elevator servo arm.
7-34. Plug the elevator servo into the receiver and test the
operation of the elevator. If there is any binding in the
movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full up and
down movement of the transmitter's elevator control stick, the
elevator should move approximately 9/16" up and 9/16" down.
25
AILERON CONTROL HOOKUP
7-35. Mount a servo in plywood Aileron Servo Mount, which
is already installed on the bottom of the wing. REMEMBER:
Do not over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point
where they compress the rubber grommets too far.
7-36. The aileron pushrods are made from two 10"
Threaded Steel Rods. Screw a Nylon R/C Link halfway onto
the threaded end of each rod. Then clip the R/C Links into
the holes in the Nylon Aileron Connectors and line up the
pushrods with the servo arms.
7-37. Tape the ailerons in neutral position (the bottom of the
ailerons and the bottom of the wing should be flush). Then
hold the pushrod wires up against the servo arm and
carefully mark each wire at the holes in the servo arm. This
is the neutral position mark.
7-38. Measure 3/16” from the neutral position mark,
towards the unthreaded end of the wire, and make another
mark. Now make a third mark 1/4” away from the 3/16”
mark.
7-39. Use a cutting pliers to cut the wires at the 1/4” mark.
Put a “Z-BEND” in the end of each wire, using the
remaining marks as your guides. Refer back to page 19 to
refresh your memory on making Z-BENDS.
7-40. Unclip the R/C Links from the torque rods so that you
can insert the Z-BENDS into the holes in the servo arm.
After they are installed, clip the R/C Links back on the
torque rods.
NOTE: You will probably have to drill out the holes in the
servo arm a little bit to allow the Z-BENDS to go in.
7-41. Re-adjust the overall length of the aileron pushrods by
screwing the Nylon R/C Links further in or out, as needed to
get both ailerons into neutral position at the same time.
Make sure the aileron servo is neutral while doing this.
7-42. Plug the aileron servo into the receiver and test the
operation of the ailerons. If you sense any binding in the
aileron movement, find the cause and fix it now. With full
right and left movement of the transmitter's aileron control
stick, the ailerons should move approximately 3/8" up and
3/8" down.
NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of aileron
travel, try moving the nylon R/C links to a different hole in
the servo arm. You can also screw the Aileron Connectors
up or down on the Torque Rods to increase or decrease the
amount of travel.
RECEIVER BATTERY PACK
7-43. Wrap the battery pack with a single layer of 1/2” thick
soft foam rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and
shock. Use tape or rubber bands to hold the foam around
the battery. Install the wrapped battery pack inside the nose
of the model, under the fuel tank floor, in the position shown
on the plan (fuselage side view). Try to keep the battery
pack as far to the right side of the fuselage as possible to
avoid interfering with the nose gear pushrod.
26
RECEIVER
IMPORTANT: Do not cut the antenna wire coming out of the receiver or attempt to fly your model with the antenna wire
folded or coiled up! The antenna length is predetermined by the radio manufacturer for best signal reception. Shortening or
lengthening the antenna wire can detune the receiver.
7-44. Drill a 1/16" dia. hole completely through the bottom
of the fuselage, about 3-1/2" behind the firewall. This hole
is for the receiver antenna wire to exit the fuselage. Make
sure the hole will miss the battery pack before you start
drilling! Put a single drop of Thin CA glue on the hole to
keep the covering from coming loose. Let dry completely!
NOTE: These instructions describe running the antenna
outside along the bottom of the fuselage. There are a lot of
other ways to handle the routing of a receiver antenna. If
you prefer a different method, by all means use it.
7-475. Wrap the receiver with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape
or rubber bands to hold the foam around the receiver.
7-46. Following the radio manufacturer's instructions, plug all the wires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into the
receiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check to be sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver
terminal and that it is responding properly.
NOTE: Since the receiver will be hard to get at, you should use a short "extension" wire (available from the radio manufacturer)
for the ailerons. Plug the extension wire into the receiver's aileron terminal. Whenever you take the wing on/off the model, you
can connect/disconnect the ailerons at the plug-in between the extension wire and the servo wire, leaving the extension wire itself
permanently plugged into the receiver.
7-47. Install the wrapped receiver inside the nose of the model, right behind the battery pack. Before you get the receiver
completely in place, poke the antenna wire down through the hole in the bottom of the fuselage (use an "antenna strain relief"
fitting if one came with your radio). Make sure the antenna wire is not tangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue pulling
the antenna out the bottom of the fuselage as you slide the receiver forward against the battery pack. If the receiver seems loose
in the nose of the model, pack additional pieces of foam rubber around it to make sure it cannot move around in flight.
7-48. Anchor the loose end of the antenna on the outside
of the model near the rear of the fuselage using a small
rubber band and a T-Pin (an "antenna hook" is also handy if
one came with your radio). Stick the T-Pin into the bottom
of the fuselage at an angle, as shown. Put a drop or two of
CA glue on the pin to keep it in place. Tie the rubber band
to the antenna (or the antenna hook) and then loop it over
the T-Pin. The antenna should be just taught, not tight! The
rubber band allows a certain amount of give in case the
antenna is snagged by accident.
27
Part 7: FUEL TANK
8-1. Open the bag containing the fuel tank parts. Inside the
tank is a piece of flexible fuel line tubing. Reach inside with
a tweezers or needle nose pliers to get a hold of the fuel line
tubing and pull it out. CAUTION: Don’t squeeze too hard
and put a hole in the tubing! Now shake the tank a few times
to make sure there is no dirt or plastic shavings inside!
8-2. Take a close look at the rubber stopper. Notice that it
has two open holes and one closed one. We will only be
using the two open holes. Leave the third hole closed.
Assemble the front metal clamp, the rubber stopper, and the
rear metal clamp with the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the
parts just touch each other - do not tighten at this time.
Rotate the front and rear metal clamps until their holes line
up with the two open holes in the rubber stopper. You should
be able to see daylight completely through the two holes.
8-3. Cut one of the aluminum tubes to 1-1/2” long - this will
be the Fuel Feed Tube. Cut the other aluminum tube to
2-1/2” long - this will be the Vent Tube. A razor saw works
well for cutting the aluminum tubing. Clean up the sawn end
of the tubing with 220 grit sandpaper to remove any burrs or
sharp edges that might cut the fuel line tubing later.
8-4. Carefully poke the aluminum tubes through the two
open holes in the stopper assembly. Keep pushing the tubes
in until 3/8” of tube sticks out in front of the stopper. PLAN
AHEAD: The two aluminum tubes should end up
horizontally opposed to each other at the top of the stopper
cap. The short fuel feed tube should be on the left side, and
the long vent tube on the right.
8-5. Put the plain end of a #47 drill bit about 1/4” inside the
back end of the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage,
slowly bend the back end of the vent tube upwards about
45O. Try not to put a kink in the aluminum tube.
8-6. Cut the piece of silicone tubing that came with the tank
to 3-1/2” long. Slide one end of the tubing onto the metal
clunk. Slide the other end of the tubing over the back end of
the fuel feed tube.
8-7. Insert completed assembly into the neck of the fuel
tank. Rotate the stopper cap so the aluminum tubes are
horizontal at the top of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a
strong light and look inside to see if the vent tube is close to
the top of the tank. Also, check to see if the metal clunk
inside the tank swings freely from side-to-side, whether the
tank is right side up or upside down. If the metal clunk is
hitting the back wall of the tank, take the stopper back out,
shorten the length of the silicone tubing a little, and then test
again. When everything is right, tighten the screw in the
stopper cap until the cap is snug in the neck of the tank.
8-8. Test the fuel tank for leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with
water. Slip the 12” piece of Fuel Line Tubing that came in the
kit onto the tank vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water,
holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air
into the other end of the fuel tubing and watch for air bubbles
coming around the cap of the tank. If it’s leaking, tighten the
screw in the cap a little at a time until the leaking stops.
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8-9. Cut the piece of 12” long silicone tubing into two 6” long
pieces. Slip one piece onto the tank’s fuel feed tube and the
other onto the vent tube. Run the loose ends of the fuel line
tubing through the hole in the firewall at the same time that
you are placing the tank in the fuselage.
8-10. Slide the fuel tank up against the back of the firewall.
Cut a piece of scrap wood 3-1/4” long (can be stick or sheet,
balsa or plywood) to use as a rear tank brace. Reach in
through the servo area and wedge the brace between the
fuselage sides, right up tight against the back end of the
tank. Spread some Slow CA glue on the ends of the brace
to glue it to the fuselage sides. (HINT: Put some glue on the
end of a long stick or nail, then reach in and dab the glue on
the ends of the brace.) This brace will insure that the tank
cannot shift backwards in flight.
8-11. Cut strips of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber (like you
wrapped the receiver and battery pack with) to fit between
the sides of the fuel tank and the fuselage sides. This is to
keep the tank from shifting sideways in flight. Cut another
strip of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber to lay on top of the tank,
filling the space between the tank and the Hatch. Then
screw the Hatch in place.
8-12. Attach the fuel feed line to the engine’s carburetor and
the vent line to the pressure fitting on the muffler. (NOTE:
Trim off any excess length of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines
should be kept as short as possible for best fuel draw, but
not so short that there is danger of them coming off in flight.
Leave a little slack in the lines.)
FILLING THE FUEL TANK
To fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the
fuel lines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure
fitting. Pump the fuel into the tank through the fuel feed line
(carb line). When the tank is full, fuel will begin to run out
the vent line (muffler line). Stop pumping when you see the
fuel start to come out the vent line! Re-connect the fuel
lines and you are ready to start the engine.
Part 8: BALANCE YOUR AIRPLANE
We know that your KADET LT-40 looks done and you’re anxious to go out and fly it, BUT WAIT A MINUTE - IT’S NOT REALLY
DONE YET! It must be balanced. All airplanes, model or full-size, must be accurately balanced in order to fly successfully. An
airplane that is not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely crash!
PRELIMINARY: To balance your KADET LT-40, all of the parts and components must be installed in their correct positions on
the model. The battery pack and receiver must be installed in their correct locations; the propeller, spinner, and muffler must
be installed on the engine; the fuel tank and fuel lines must be installed and connected; and every other piece of essential
equipment must be installed, ready for flight. ALWAYS BALANCE THE KADET LT-40 WITH THE FUEL TANK EMPTY!
RECOMMENDED BALANCE POINT:
Between 3-1/2” to 4-1/4” Behind The Leading Edge Of The Wing
(Anywhere within this range is acceptable.)
Using a ruler, measure back from the leading edge of the wing and mark the balance range on the bottom of the wing, next to
the fuselage. Make the same marks on both sides of the fuselage. Place a fingertip on each pencil mark and lift the airplane up
in the air. No part of the model should be touching anything except your fingertips! If the KADET LT-40 will sit on your fingertips
in a level attitude, then it is properly balanced and ready to fly.
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If the airplane sits on your fingertips in an extreme nose down attitude, then it is nose heavy. You will have to add weight to the
rear of the airplane to get it to balance. NOTE: Before adding additional weight to the model, try simply moving the battery pack
to a further aft location. The battery pack is relatively heavy and therefore makes a good balancing tool. You might try switching
places between the battery and receiver; or move the battery right in front of the servos; or in extreme situations, move it behind
the servos. If you can’t get your model balanced simply by re-locating the battery pack, then you will have to purchase lead weights
from your hobby dealer and glue them into the tail end of the fuselage.
If the airplane sits on your fingertips with the tail down, it is tail heavy. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY IT! A tail heavy model is very
dangerous and will most likely crash!! Weight will have to be added to the nose of the model to bring it into balance. The weights
can be glued to the inside of the fuselage “cheeks” in front of the firewall; or inside the fuselage alongside the fuel tank. There
are also “spinner weights” available for tail heavy models. Wherever you put the balancing weight, make sure it cannot come loose
in flight!
WHY MODELS MUST BE INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED
It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automatically have the correct balance point. Not everyone uses the same engine,
or muffler, or radio - and all those items can vary in weight! You might be surprised to know that .40 size 2-stroke R/C model engines can
vary in weight from 11 oz. to 18 oz. - that’s almost a half pound difference, way out on the nose of your model! There can even be as much
as a 3/4 oz. difference in weight between different brands of 10-6 props! So, that’s why every model must be balanced before flying. Don’t
feel that whatever the balance point your model came out at is “good enough”. Check carefully and make whatever adjustments are
required. Trying to fly an out of balance model is dangerous!
Part 9: PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT
9-1. Be certain to range check your radio equipment according to the manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to fly.
9-2. Run your engine for the first time on the ground. A lot of problems can be avoided if your new engine has been “broken in”
by running at least two tanks of fuel through it on a test stand before you attempt to fly.
9-3. Double check the alignment and movement of all the controls one more time! Make sure none of the pushrods are binding
or the servos stalling. Make sure the control surfaces move in the proper direction when you move the sticks. You’d be amazed
to know how many models have been destroyed on takeoff with one of the controls reversed. If you’re in this hobby for very long,
you will see it happen. Don’t let it happen to you! It’s a good idea to get into the habit of checking for proper control response
every time you get ready to fly.
9-4. Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control surfaces are in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks and
trim levers are centered. When you get to the flying field, don’t be surprised if the elevator and rudder are suddenly misaligned
after you had them perfect at home. Temperature and humidity changes can cause nylon pushrods, like those on the KADET
LT-40’s elevator and rudder, to shrink or expand slightly. If they are just slightly out of neutral, use the trim levers on the transmitter to neutralize them again right before flying.
9-5. Adjust your pushrod linkages as necessary to provide the recommended amount of control surface travel. Make sure all of
the R/C Links are securely snapped shut.
RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL
ELEVATOR - 9/16” UP, 9/16” DOWN
RUDDER - 1” LEFT, 1” RIGHT
AILERONS - 3/8” UP, 3/8” DOWN
THROTTLE - Tx Stick
Trim Lever
Carburetor
Forward
Forward
Fully Open
Back
Forward
Slightly Open
Back
Back
Fully Closed
Result
High Speed
Good Idle
Kill Engine
9-6. Make sure all of the screws and bolts on your model are tight. Double check to see that all of the servos are secure and all
of the servo control arms are screwed on firmly.
9-7. Charge your radio batteries before every flying session!
9-8. Be sure to read “THE BASICS OF RADIO CONTROL”. It contains valuable tips to help make your first R/C flight a success.
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FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY
Do not try to fly your KADET LT-40 in your backyard, at the local school yard, or in any other heavily populated area! If you have
never seen an R/C airplane fly before, you probably don’t realize how much room you really need. An area as big as four or five
football fields, that is free of power lines, trees, poles, houses, and other obstructions is the minimum amount of room that you
will need. A school yard may look inviting, but it is too close to people, houses, power lines, and possible radio interference.
The best place to fly your model is at a designated model airplane flying field. Ask your local hobby dealer, or other modelers in
your area, if there is an R/C flying field that is used by a local R/C club. If you can’t find a local person who knows, contact the
Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) at the address in the front of this book. They will know if there is an R/C club near you.
The local club field is the ideal place to fly you new model! However, be sure to check with the other fliers at the field before
turning on your radio equipment. Do not test your radio in the parking lot or anywhere nearby until you are sure no one else is
using your radio frequency. Joining the local flying club will not only give you access to a large, safe place to fly, but you will enjoy
being around all types of R/C model airplanes and talking to their builders.
LEARNING TO FLY R/C
The KADET LT-40 is designed to give you the best possible chance to succeed in learning to fly R/C. However, learning to fly
model airplanes is not a skill you can learn overnight. It’s very similar to learning to fly a real airplane in that you should go through
a learning phase with an instructor before you try to pilot the airplane yourself. A lot of things can go wrong with
these machines, and if you are not prepared to deal with them instantly, you will loose your brand new airplane in a crash. To
practically eliminate any chance that your first flight will end in disaster, we strongly recommend that you seek the assistance of
a competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.
An instructor serves two purposes. First, he will take your model up for its first test flight to make sure it is performing properly
before you try to fly it. When a brand new R/C model takes off for the first time, there is no way of knowing which way it is going
to go. Some models will try to climb steeply, while others may want to go down. Some will try to turn left, other right. Some
models will be doing both at the same time! It doesn’t mean that there is anything wrong with the model, but these minor
differences must be “trimmed out” in order for the model to fly “hands-off” straight and level. An experienced pilot can instantly
correct for out of trim conditions before the model crashes into the ground. An inexperienced beginner has almost no chance of
saving an out of trim model!
The second reason for an instructor is to have someone there who can correct any mistakes you make when you take over the
controls for the first time. Let the instructor get the model airborne and flying straight and level at a safe attitude (“several
mistakes high” as the old saying goes) before he turns the transmitter over to you. You will quickly find out that it is very easy to
over control an R/C model and to get disoriented - EVERYONE DOES IT AT FIRST! If you get out of control on your first flight,
quickly hand the transmitter back to your instructor so he can rescue the airplane. He will get it leveled off and then let you try it
again. Without an instructor, you would not get a second chance!
In addition to not over controlling, another problem beginners need to overcome is the left/right control reversal that happens when
a model is flying towards you one minute, away from you the next. For example, if you were seated in the cockpit of a
full-scale airplane and moved the control stick to the right, the airplane would always turn to your right. Moving the control stick
to the left, the airplane would always turn to your left. Well that’s not always true with an R/C airplane! If the model is flying away
from you, the controls are normal - right stick makes the airplane go right, left stick makes the airplane go left. But when the
model is flying towards you, the controls are reversed - now when you move the stick to the right, the model turns to its right, but
that means it turns to your left! This control reversal is very confusing to all first time R/C pilots! More than a few licensed
full-scale pilots have found out that flying R/C airplanes is a lot different than flying full-scale airplanes because of this phenomenon.
It’s not that learning to fly R/C is difficult, it’s just a lot different than anything you have ever done before. Anyone can learn to fly
the KADET LT-40 if they are willing to listen and learn! Remember the first time you tried to ride a bicycle? It seemed completely
awkward the first time, but once you learned how, it quickly became very easy. Learning to fly R/C model airplanes also comes
quickly to many people.
Fly your KADET LT-40 as often as possible. After you get a few flights under your belt with an instructor at your side, you will
begin to feel more comfortable at the controls. Soon you will be flying “solo” with little thought of the moves required. It will just
come naturally! Don’t get discouraged if you have a minor crack-up. Repair the damage and get back into the air as soon as
possible.
GOOD LUCK AND SAFE FLYING!
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