SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA

Transcription

Kit No. SIGRC67EGARF
DESIGNED FOR GLOW OR ELECTRIC POWER
Wingspan: 70 in. (1778 mm)
Wing Area: 900 sq.in. (58.1 dm2)
Length: 57 in. (1447 mm)
Flying Weight: 6 - 6.25 lbs. (2720-2835 g)
Wing Loading: 15-16 oz./sq.ft. (47-49 g/dm2)
Radio: 4 Channel with 4 Standard Servos
Glow:
.40-.46 cu.in. (6.5-7.5cc) 2-Stroke Engine
.40-.54 cu.in. (6.5-8.8cc) 4-Stroke Engine
Electric:
500 watt (3528-1000kv) Motor
WARNING: Radio controlled model airplanes must be used responsibly! Just like a full-size airplane, they fly at a high rate of speed and are capable of causing serious bodily injury and
property damage if they crash. IT IS YOUR RESPONSIBILITY AND YOURS ALONE TO:
(1) Assemble this model airplane correctly according to the instructions.
(2) To ground test the model before each flight to make sure it is completely airworthy.
(3) To always fly your model in a safe approved location, away from populated areas.
(4) To always fly your model in a safe manner. Your first test flights should be made with the assistance of an experienced R/C flyer.
LIMIT OF LIABILITY: SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in material and workmanship at the date of purchase. The actions, skills, and attention to detail of the modeler
in assembling and flying this model airplane will ultimately determine its success and safety. Sig Mfg. Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace those parts of the kit proven to be defective or
missing. The user shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability in connection therewith.
SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
www.sigmfg.com
© Copyright 2011, SIG Mfg. Co., Inc.
ARE YOU INSURED?
The governing body for radio-control model airplanes in the United
States is the ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS, sometimes
referred to as the AMA. While AMA membership is not
mandatory, it is a good idea and we encourage all new R/C fliers
to join the AMA. Membership in the AMA provides you with
important liability insurance protection in case your R/C model
should ever cause serious property damage or personal injury to
someone else. Because of that liability protection, most R/C clubs
require AMA membership before you can fly at their field.
Join the AMA for the welfare of the hobby!
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
For more information
ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS
5161 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302
Ph: (765) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the sport of Radio Control flying, and thank you for
choosing the SIG KADET LT-40 EG ARF. In order for your KADET
to fly as well as it was designed to, it must be properly assembled.
Work slowly and follow the instructions exactly. This kit features a
proven aerodynamic design, quality materials, and detailed
instructions, but ultimately the flyability of your finished model
depends on how well YOU put it all together.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS YOU WILL NEED TO PURCHASE
In addition to this kit, you will need the following items to complete
your KADET LT-40 and make it flyable.
The KADET LT-40 has earned a reputation as one of the very best
R/C trainers in the world. Tens of thousands of newcomers have
successfully learned to fly R/C with a KADET LT-40. This ARF
version of the LT-40 gets you into the air quickly. It is designed to
fly with either a .40-.46 2-stroke glow engine, a .40-.54 4-stroke
glow engine, or a 500 watt electric motor.
❑ RADIO SYSTEM
The KADET LT-40 EG ARF requires a standard 4-channel radio
system and four standard servos.
CUSTOMER SERVICE
SIG Mfg. Co., Inc. is committed to your success in building and
flying the KADET LT-40 EG ARF. Should you encounter any
problems, or find any missing or damaged parts, feel free to
contact us by mail or telephone.
SIG MFG. CO., INC.
P.O. Box 520
Montezuma, IA 50171-0520
Telephone:
Internet:
1-641-623-5154
WEB SITE: www.sigmfg.com
E-MAIL: [email protected]
❑ POWER SYSTEM - GLOW OR ELECTRIC?
The biggest decision you will have to make is whether to power
your KADET LT-40 with a glow engine (2-stroke or 4-stroke) or an
electric motor. We have flown the KADET LT-40 on a variety
of both types of power systems, and we make the following
recomendations based on our successful on-field experience.
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY
We urge you to read this assembly manual completely before
assembly. Familiarize yourself with the parts and their assembly
sequences. The successful assembly and flying of this airplane is
your responsibility. If you deviate from these instructions, you may
wind-up with problems later on.
GLOW POWER RECOMMENDATIONS
❑ ENGINE
We recommend the following size for the KADET LT-40 EG ARF.
If this is your first R/C Aircraft PLEASE READ THIS!
As already mentioned, the KADET LT-40 EG ARF is a perfect
model for learning to fly R/C. However, it is important to
understand that if you have never flown an R/C model before, you
will need to find a qualified R/C flight instructor to test fly the
airplane and teach you how to fly it. If this is your first radio
control model airplane, DO NOT attempt to fly it by yourself
without a qualified instructor.
2-STROKE - .40 to .46 cu.in.
4-STROKE - .40 to .54 cu.in.
Don’t let the large size of the KADET LT-40 fool you! Due to it’s
huge wing area, very light wing loading and slow flight envelope,
these engines will provide ideal power for training or general sport
flying the KADET LT-40.
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Whatever brand glow engine you choose, take the time to
carefully break it in according to the manufacturer's instructions. A
good running, reliable engine is a minimum requirement for the
enjoyment of this or any R/C model aircraft.
engine. A 4 cell pack (14.8 volts) provides flight performance
similar to a .46 glow engine. We find that 4500mAh lipo packs
provide between 10 to 15 minutes of flight time, depending on
propeller selection and other factors (quality of pack, throttle
management, outside temperature, etc.). CAUTION: You must
match your propeller size to the cell count of your lipo pack, to
avoid drawing too many amps and damaging your ESC or motor.
❑ PROPELLER FOR GLOW
Refer to the engine manufacturer’s instructions for
recommendations on proper propeller size for their engine. In our
experience, most 2-stroke .40-.46 glow engines will fly the KADET
LT-40 very nicely with a 10x6 or 11-6 prop.
❑ PROPELLER FOR ELECTRIC
With a 3-cell (3S1P) 11.1v lipo pack, we recommend an APC
11x7E, APC 11x8E, or APC 12x6E propeller for the Maxx Products
HC3528-1000 motor. All three sizes delivered good performance,
very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .40 glow engine. For a starting prop
we recommend the APC 11x7E. Other brand propellers of same
size and similar design can also be used. NOTE: Your results may
vary due to other factors - the specs of your individual motor and
battery pack, etc. You may need to experiment with different props
to find your best combination.
ELECTRIC POWER RECOMMENDATIONS
❑ 500 watt BRUSHLESS OUTRUNNER MOTOR
We use the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 Brushless Outrunner
Motor. dia.: 35mm
length: 54mm
weight: 197g (6.9 oz.)
Kv = 1000
Rm = .020
Lo = 2.6
With a 4-cell (4S1P) 14.8v lipo pack, we recommend an APC
10x6E, APC 10x7E, or APC 11x5.5E propeller for the Maxx
Products HC3528-1000 motor.. All three sizes delivered good
performance, very reminiscent of a 2-stroke .46 glow engine. For
a starting prop we recommend the APC 10x6E. Other brand
propellers of same size and similar design can also be used.
❑ MOTOR MOUNT
We use the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Large Motor Mount. This
plastic cone-shaped mount provides the exact firewall-to-propeller
distance needed to fit inside the KADET LT-40 cowling, without
modifications. If you go shopping for another brand mount, you will
need a mount that can provide 4-1/2" from the front of the firewall
to the back of the propeller (or spinner if being used).
Hi-Maxx "COMBO 40" Complete System
Maxx Products, the manufacturer of the motor that we used in this
manual, markets a "Combo 40" electric motor system. The Maxx
"Combo 40" package consists of (1) Hi-Maxx HC3528-1000
Brushless Outrunner Motor; (1) Prop Adapter Assembly; (1) Castle
Creations 50 Amp Speed Control (ESC); and (1) APC 12-6E
Propeller. It's a good system for the KADET LT-40.
Maxx Products, Inc.
815 Oakwood Rd.
Lake Zurich, IL 60047
Web: www.maxxprod.com
Ph: 847-438-2233
❑ 50-60 amp ESC (Electronic Speed Control)
We use the Castle Creations ICE 50 ESC or the Castle Creations
Phoenix 60 ESC. We typically see amp draw of 30 to 48 amps,
depending on whether a 3 cell or 4 cell lipo is being used and the
propeller size.
NOTE: The Castle Creations ESCs that we used, as well as the
many of the other ESCs on the market, have a BEC (Battery
Eliminator Circuit) built in. BEC allows you to use the same battery
pack to power both your motor and your radio system, eliminating
the normal radio battery pack. As the dual purpose battery runs
down in flight, the BEC circuit in the ESC will shut down the motor
and leave enough power to operate the radio while you land the
model. However, the BEC feature in many ESCs does not work
with 4 cell lipo battery packs - only 3 cell packs. Check the
manual of your particular ESC to learn if this is true in your case.
REQUIRED TOOLS & BUILDING SUPPLIES
For proper assembly, we suggest you have the following tools and
materials available:
A selection of glues - SIG Thin & Medium CA Glue,
CA Accelerator, CA Debonder,
SIG Kwik-Set 5-Minute Epoxy
Assorted Screwdrivers
Pliers - Needle Nose & Flat Nose
Diagonal Wire Cutters
Small Allen Wrench Assortment
Pin Vise for Small Dia. Drill Bits
Hobby Knife with sharp #11 Blades
Small Power Drill With Selection of Bits
Dremel® Tool With Selection of Sanding & Grinding Bits
Scissors
Sandpaper (such as 80 or 100 grit)
Heat Iron & Trim Seal Tool
T-Pins (such as SIG #SH-307)
Masking Tape
Soft Pencil or Fine Point Felt Tip Pen
Ruler and/or Tape Measure
90O Triangle (such as SIG #TR-036 Metal Triangle)
Alcohol or Acetone For Epoxy Clean-up
1/2” Thick Soft Foam Rubber (such as SIG #RF-240) - Used to
protect your radio receiver and battery from vibration. Also
used as packing around radio components and fuel tank to
keep them from shifting around in flight.
If your ESC is only rated for 3 cell operation, you have three
options: 1) fly only 3 cell lipo packs; 2) install the normal radio
battery pack to run the radio full time; or 3) install an aftermarket
BEC that is rated for 3 or 4 cells. We wanted to be able to fly both
3 cell and 4 cell packs interchangeably, so we elected to use the
normal radio battery pack, since we already had it and the little bit
of extra weight is no problem for the KADET LT-40. We then
disabled the BEC feature of our Castle ESC, since we no longer
needed BEC. Disabling the BEC allows the speed control to be
used with both 3 cell and 4 cell packs without problems. A
common way to disable BEC in many ESCs is to remove or clip the
middle wire from the plug on the ESC that goes into the radio
receiver - see your ESC manual for more guidance.
❑ 3 or 4 cell 4500mAh LITHIUM-POLYMER BATTERY PACK
With the Maxx Products HC3528-1000 motor we use 3 cell (3S1P)
4500mAh or 4 cell (4S1P) 4500mAh Li-po packs. A 3 cell pack
(11.1 volts) provides flight performance similar to a .40 glow
3
Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.
If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 641-623-5154.
Note: Not all parts are shown at same scale.
4
Please check the contents of your kit box with these diagrams.
If any parts are missing, contact SIG Mfg. Co. at 641-623-5154.
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COMPLETE KIT PARTS LIST
The following is a complete list of all parts contained in this kit.
Before beginning assembly, we suggest that you take the time to
inventory the parts in your kit. Use the check-off boxes (❑)
provided in front of each part description.
❑
❑
❑
❑
❑
❑
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
(1)
Fuselage & Hatch
Right Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged
Left Wing Panel & Aileron, hinged
Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator, hinged
Vertical Fin & Rudder, hinged
Cowling with (4) M2.6 x 10mm Mounting Screws
(1)
(1)
(4)
(4)
(1)
(1)
Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bearing
Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw
M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts
M3 Flat Washers
4mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacer
4mm I.D. Wheel Collar with Set Screw
Spinner Assembly
❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Cone
❑ (1) 2" dia. Black Spinner Backplate
❑ (1) Prop Adapter Rings
❑ (2) T3 x 10mm Phillips-Head Mounting Screws
Control Horns
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horns; for elev(1) and rud(1)
❑ (2) Nylon Control Horn Retainer; for elev(1); rud(1)
❑ (4) M2 x 12mm Mounting Bolts; for rud & elev control horns
Main Landing Gear
❑ (2) 4.5mm dia. Main Landing Gear Wires
❑ (2) 3" Dia. Main Wheels
❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Retaining Straps
❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Screws
❑ (2) 4.5mm I.D. Plastic Wheel Spacers
❑ (2) 4.5mm I.D. Wheel Collars with Set Screws
Pushrods
❑ (2) 1/16” dia. x 16” Straight Music Wire; for throttle & nose
gear pushrods
❑ (2) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Inner Pushrod Tubes;
for elevator & rudder pushrods
❑ (6) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods; for ail(2); elev(2); rud(2)
Nose Gear Assembly
❑ (1) 4mm dia. Nose Gear Wire
❑ (1) 2-3/4" Dia. Nose Wheel
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❑
❑
❑
❑
(6)
(2)
(2)
(2)
Nylon R/C Links; for ail(2); rud(2); elev(2)
Brass Pushrod Connector; for thro(1); nose gear(1)
Pushrod Connector Retainer; for thro(1); nose gear(1)
Pushrod Connector Bolt; for thro(1); nose gear(1)
wood typically loses this moisture, dimensionally "shrinking" in the
process. In turn, this may cause some wrinkles. However,
wrinkles are easy to remove by just using a hobby type heat iron.
CAUTION: Trying to remove the wrinkles by hastily going over
them with a heat gun can lead to more problems. You should take
your time to carefully go over the entire model with a covering iron,
as we will describe.
Miscellaneous
❑ (2) 1/4-20 x 1-1/2" Nylon Wing Bolts
❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner
❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Tray
❑ (1) Decal Sheet
We suggest using a model airplane covering iron for this process.
Cover the iron's shoe with a thin cotton cloth, such as an old t-shirt,
to prevent scratching the covering as you work.
Fuel Tank for Glow Engine
❑ (1) Fuel Tank Body - 260cc (8.8 oz.)
❑ (1) Rubber Stopper
❑ (1) Metal Front Clamp
❑ (1) Metal Rear Clamp
❑ (1) M3 x 18mm Bolt
❑ (1) Metal Clunk Pick-Up
❑ (1) Fuel Tubing, inside tank
❑ (1) Aluminum Tube - 3mm od x 60mm
After covering your iron, the next step is to set the iron to the
correct temperature. This is critical for achieving a good result!
The iron should be set to about 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC) as
measured on the bottom of the iron using a thermometer.
If you do not have a thermometer, you can find the correct
temperature by trial and error. Set your iron to a medium setting.
Glide the iron over some of the covering that is over over solid
wood, such as the sheeted wing center section. Observe the
covering to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles appear, the
covering is getting too hot! Turn down the temperature of the iron
and repeat the test.
Engine Mounts for Glow Engine
❑ (1) Right Engine Mount
❑ (1) Left Engine Mount
❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Mounting Bolts, for mounts-to-firewall
❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers, for mounts-to-firewall
❑ (4) 4-40 x 1” Mounting Bolts; for engine-to-mounts
❑ (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine-to-mounts
❑ (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine-to-mounts
If no bubbles appear, turn up the heat slightly and repeat the test.
Keep adjusting until you “zero in” on the correct temperature. Find
the temperature that will get the covering to stick down without
forming bubbles or causing the seams to pull away.
Once your iron is set to the correct temperature, go over the
entire framework of the airplane, making sure that the covering is
securely bonded to the structure everywhere the covering comes
in contact with the wood underneath. This takes some time, but is
worth the effort.
After you have all the covering secured onto the solid areas, turn
the temperature of the iron up to approximatelly 300OF - 320OF
(149OC - 160OC). This is the correct temperature for shrinking the
covering material.
Use the iron to tighten up any wrinkles in the “open” areas of the
model (no wood underneath the covering). Glide the iron over the
wrinkle for a few seconds, then remove. Repeat until the covering
is tight with no wrinkles.
COVERING MATERIAL
Your KADET LT-40 ARF is covered with ORACOVER®, a premium
quality covering made in Germany, and sold in the U.S. by Hanger9 as UltraCote®.
Colors
ORACOVER® #10 White (UltraCote® #HANU870)
and
ORACOVER® #71 Black (UltraCote® #HANU874)
and
ORACOVER® #23 Red (UltraCote® #HANU866)
If wrinkles keep coming back on the tail surfaces, you may need to
“ventilate” the areas between the ribs. Otherwise the air that is
sealed in those relatively small areas will expand when the heat is
applied and actually cause the covering to stretch instead of
shrink. Use a pin to poke a tiny hole in the covering between each
rib, on the bottom of the part. That will let the expanding air
escape and the covering to shrink properly.
If sometime in the future you need replacement covering or
matching paint for repairs, they are available from your local hobby
dealer or online from Hanger-9.
Caution When Using Heat Guns: You can also use a hobby-type
heat gun to shrink the covering, but you must be careful around
seams or color joints. Getting too much heat on the seams may
cause them to "creep" or come loose. You must also be careful
when using a heat gun when working around the windshield and
side windows - heat will distort the clear plastic material.
How To Tighten Loose Covering
After you open your KADET LT-40 and take all the covered parts
out of their plastic bags, the covering may begin to wrinkle. This is
not unusual and is no cause for alarm.
Recommended Temperatures:
To adhere the covering - 220OF - 250OF (104OC - 121OC)
To shrink the covering - 300OF - 320OF (149OC - 160OC)
Your airplane was built and covered in a part of the world which
has relatively high humidity and therefore, the wood was likely
carrying a fair amount of moisture. When exposed to drier air, the
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NOTE: ANY REFERENCE TO RIGHT OR LEFT IN THIS
MANUAL REFERS TO YOUR RIGHT OR LEFT AS IF YOU WERE
SEATED IN THE COCKPIT OF THE AIRPLANE.
4) Apply a liberal amount of Epoxy Glue to the end ribs of BOTH
Wing Panels and to the exposed end of the Wing Joiner.
5) Slide the other Wing Panel onto the Wing Joiners and up tight
against the first panel. Firmly press the Wing Panels together and
wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue with a paper towel and rubbing
alcohol. Make sure the two Wing Panels are accurately aligned
with each other, and then use tape( low tack) to hold them in place
while the Epoxy Glue dries. Set the wing aside and let it dry
completely (overnight if possible) before proceeding.
WING ASSEMBLY
Locate the following parts from the kit contents:
❑ (1) Right Wing Panel & Aileron
❑ (1) Left Wing Panel & Aileron
❑ (1) Hardwood Wing Joiner
❑ (1) Plywood Aileron Servo Mount
NOTE: If possible, get someone to help you with this step. An
extra set of hands makes the job much easier. While one person
holds the two Wing Panels firmly together in correct alignment, the
other person can clean off the excess glue and tape the Wing
Panels together.
NOTE: The next 5 Steps involve gluing the Right and Left
Wing Panels permanently together. You should be prepared to
accomplish these 5 Steps in one session, without stopping for
anything. In fact, it's best if you read through these 4 Steps before
beginning, so that you will have a good understanding of the
sequence we are about to start.
1) Note that the Wing Panels in your kit come with the ailerons
permanently hinged in place. Give each aileron a gentle pull to the
rear to double check that they are securely glued.
2) Mix up an ample amount of slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Use a
wire, stick, or small brush to thoroughly coat the inside of the wing
joiner slot in the end of the Wing Panels with Epoxy. Be sure to
apply glue inside the slots of BOTH the Left and Right Wing
Panels.
NOTE: It’s very important that you use plenty of Epoxy Glue
during these steps. The strength of your wing joint depends on it!
Use enough glue so that when you put the pieces together, excess
glue oozes out of the joints. You can always clean up the excess
epoxy glue with a paper towel soaked in rubbing alcohol.
6) After the Epoxy Glue has FULLY dried, you can remove the
tape. Peel the tape off slowly, back over the top of itself, to avoid
loosening the covering material.
7) Locate the plywood Aileron Servo Mount. This piece goes on
the bottom of the wing to reinforce the cutout where the aileron
servo will be mounted. Hold the mount in place, lining up the inner
edges with the cutout in the wing. Then carefully mark the wing
surface around the outside of the mount with a felt-tip pen.
3) Coat one half of the hardwood Wing Joiner with Epoxy Glue
and slide it into one Wing Panel.
NOTE: You should have enough glue in the slot and on the Wing
Joiner that the excess glue oozes out of the slot when you push
the Wing Joiner in.
8) Next use a modeling knife to carefully cut through the plastic
wing covering along the lines you made in the previous step. Then
peel the covering away where the mount will be glued.
CAUTION: DO NOT PRESS HARD ENOUGH TO CUT INTO THE
BALSA WING SHEETING - CUT ONLY THROUGH THE PLASTIC
COVERING! THE KEY IS TO USE A GOOD SHARP BLADE AND
GLIDE IT ALONG THE LINES WITHOUT HAVING TO PUSH THE
BLADE DOWN.
7
9) Epoxy Glue the plywood Aileron Servo Mount in place. Use
enough glue to fill the gaps along the sides of the mount.
4) Apply the Windshield decal next. This piece is small enough
that you can apply it dry, without using any soapy water. Note in
the picture that it should go on flush with the bottom of the plywood
windshield. Also notice that there is approximately 1/4" overhang
on each side of the front decal. Wrap this overhang down onto the
sides of the fuselage.
10) This step is OPTIONAL! Some R/Cers like to cover the wing
center joint with 1/2" wide plastic trim tape, or a 1/2" wide strip of
covering material "trim sheet", to give the wing a more finished
appearance. If you want to do this on your Kadet, your local hobby
shop should have a selection of trim sheet or wide striping tape in
various colors to do this.
The wing is now basically done.
Set it aside until you get to the section of the book titled
AILERON PUSHRODS on page 21.
APPLY THE DECALS
It is much easier to apply all the decals now, before the major parts
of the airplane are assembled.
1) Cut the decals for the Right Fin and the Left Fin out of the decal
sheet using a sharp modeling knife and straight edge. Trim as
close to the image as possible.
5) Apply all 3 Left Side Windows in one piece. Do not cut them
apart! Applying them as a single piece will allow you to keep them
lined up with each other. Use the soapy water method outlined in
Step 2 to allow you to slide the Side Windows into perfect
alignment with the Windshield. Once you have them properly
positioned, squeegee the soapy water from underneath the Side
Windows. Then apply the Right Side Windows in the same
manner you did the Left Side Windows.
NOTE: Keep the black and red decals for each side of the Fin
together as one unit. In other words, do not seperate the black and
red parts that go on the same side of the Fin. Apply them as one
decal! There is no need to apply them as two seperate decals apply them as one unit to save time.
2) Putting large decals (like these for the Fin) on a model often
leaves unsightly air bubbles trapped underneath the decal. Here's
a method that eliminates the problem entirely!
First spray the surface of the Fin where the decal will be placed
with water mixed with a small amount of dish soap (you can also
use "SIG Pure Magic Model Airplane Cleaner", "Fantastic®",
"Windex®", or "409®" type cleaners). Then peel the paper backing
sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the sticky
side double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wet
surface of the model. The soapy water solution will keep the decal
from actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shift
it around into exact position. Once you have it in position, use a
piece of stiff cardboard (or sheet balsa, thin plywood, or a SIG
SH678 Epoxy Spreader) to squeegee the excess soapy water out
from under the decal. Mop up the water with a paper towel.
Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the soapy water out from
under the decal as possible.
6) Cut out and apply the decals to the top of the wing. Apply wet.
7) Allow all the decals to dry overnight! When completely dry,
wash off any soap smears with a clean wet rag.
3) Turn the Fin over and apply the decal to the other side in the
same manner.
8
5) Remove the Stabilizer from the Fuselage and carefully strip
away the covering material on the bottom, between the two lines,
where the Stabilizer will be glued to the Fuselage. CUT THE
COVERING LIGHTLY ALONG THE LINES. AVOID CUTTING THE
WOOD UNDERNEATH THE COVERING MATERIAL!
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
1) Draw a center-line on the area of the Fuselage where the
Stabilizer will be mounted. If your Fuselage has any covering
material from the sides overlapping onto the Stabilizer mounting
area, trim it off at this time.
6) It's best to glue the Stabilizer permanently onto the Fuselage
with slow-drying Epoxy Glue. Mix the Epoxy and spread a
generous coat evenly on the area of the Fuselage where the
Stabilizer goes. Remount the Stabilizer onto the Fuselage, using
the edges of the cutaway covering on the bottom to get the
Stabilizer back into correct alignment on the Fuselage. Press the
Stabilizer down firmly and pin it in correct position. Use a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol to wipe off any excess Epoxy Glue that
oozes out of the joint. Let this joint dry completely before proceeding.
2) Use a 90 degree triangle as shown to draw a center-line down
the middle of the top of the Stabilizer.
7) Trial fit the Fin/Rudder assembly on the fuselage, sticking the
leading edge of the Fin thru the hole in the top of the Fuselage.
Carefully line up the trailing edge of the Fin with the center-line on
the top of the Stabilizer.
Draw along both sides of the Fin,
marking its location on the top of the Fuselage and Stabilizer. Take
the Fin/Rudder assembly off the Fuselage and strip away the
covering material inside the lines.
3) Set the Stabilizer in place on the Fuselage. Line up the centerline on the Stabilizer with the center-line on the Fuselage. Use
pins to secure the Stabilizer in position. Push the pins completely
thru the Stabilizer and into the Fuselage.
8) Mix up a small batch of slow-drying Epoxy Glue and coat the
area where the Fin will go. Remount the Fin onto the Fuselage,
line it up as before, and pin it firmly in position until the glue dries.
Use a 90 degree triangle to insure that the Fin dries perpendicular
to the Stabilizer.
4) Lift the rear of the Fuselage up, without jarring the Stabilizer
loose, enough to enable you to mark the location of both Fuselage
sides on the bottom of the Stabilizer.
9
LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY
❑ (2) 4.5mm formed Main Landing Gear Wires
❑ (2) 3” dia. Main Wheels
❑ (2) 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacers
❑ (2) 4.5mm Wheel Collars
❑ (2) Nylon Landing Gear Straps
❑ (4) M3 x 10mm Screws
❑ (1) 4mm formed Nose Gear Wire
❑ (1) 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel
❑ (1) 4mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer
❑ (1) 4mm Wheel Collar
❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Bracket
❑ (1) Nylon Nose Gear Steering Arm with Set Screw
❑ (4) M3 x 14mm Mounting Bolts
❑ (4) M3 Flat Washers
5) Install a Plastic Wheel Spacer, the 2-3/4" dia. Nose Wheel and
a 4mm Wheel Collar on the axle of the Nose Gear Wire. Make sure
the wheel turns freely.
1) Locate the two pre-bent Main Gear Wires and the pre-bent
Nose Gear Wire. Inspect the ends of all the wires for burrs. If any
are found, use a file or sandpaper to remove them.
2) Press a 4.5mm id Plastic Wheel Spacer onto the axle portion of
the one of the Main Gear Wires. Slide it all the way along the axle,
and up tight against the bend in the wire. Then install a 3" dia.
Main Wheel and a 4.5mm id Wheel Collar on the axle as shown.
Tighten the wheel collar Set Screw firmly. Make sure the wheel
turns freely after you tighten the wheel collar. Repeat the process
to make a second Main Gear Wire assembly.
6) Bolt the nylon Nose Gear Bearing in place on the front of the
firewall using the four M3 x 14mm Bolts and M3 Flat Metal
Washers provided. Note that M3 Blind Nuts are pre-mounted in
the back of the firewall for the Nose Gear Bearing. Use thread
locking compound on the bolts to keep them securely in place.
7) Hold the Steering Arm in position in the Nose Gear Bearing
while you insert the top end of the Nose Gear Wire up through the
holes in the bearing and steering arm. Push the wire in until the
top of the wire is flush with the top of the nose gear bearing. Snug
up the set screw in the Steering Arm just enough to get a slight grip
on the Nose Gear Wire (keep it loose enough that you can adjust
the steering arm position in the next step).
3) Fit the Main Gear Wires into the grooved block in the bottom of
the Fuselage. Holes have been pre-drilled in the block to receive
the short upper arm of the gear wires. Push the wires down tight
into the groove. NOTE: If the wire doesn't want to fit completely
down into the groove of the landing gear block, it may be
necessary to remove a little material from the inside edge of the
hole to allow for the radius of the bend in the wire. Do this with a
round file or modeling knife.
4) Place the two nylon Landing Gear Straps over the Main Gear
Wires as shown in the picture. Mark, then drill four 1/16" pilot holes
for the screws. Use four M3 x 10mm Screws to mount the straps.
10
The installation for either a 2-stroke or 4-stroke glow engine is
basically the same. The only differences being in the throttle arm
locations on the carburetors and the muffler locations. The factoryinstalled throttle pushrod sleeve in the fuselage has been placed to
exit the firewall on the right side of the fuselage. Note that it is not
yet glued in place and is removable. This positioning is typical for
the throttle arm location on most 2-stroke engines. If you plan to
use a 4-stroke engine, it may be necessary to relocate the throttle
pushrod sleeve over to the left side of the firewall to line-up with the
4-stroke engine’s throttle arm. This is easy to do, using a long 1/4"
dia. drill bit to drill a new hole (aligned with the engine’s throttle
arm) through the firewall and through the second fuel tank support
former behind it.
8) Align the Nose Wheel so it points straight ahead. Adjust the
Steering Arm position on the Nose Gear Wire so that the outer
hole in the arm is about 3/4" away from the front of the firewall
when the wheel is pointed straight ahead. Then tighten the set
screw in the Steering Arm. NOTE: This slightly forward angle to
the Steering Arm is necessary to allow the steering arm to turn to
the left without hitting the front of the firewall.
❑ (1) Right Glass-Filled Engine Mount
❑ (1) Left Glass-Filled Engine Mount
❑ (4) M3 x 20mm Phillips-Head Bolts; for mounts
❑ (4) M3 Flat Metal Washers; for mounts
❑ (4) 4-40 x 1” Slotted Bolts; for engine
❑ (4) 4-40 Lock Nuts; for engine
❑ (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers; for engine
❑ (1) 2” Spinner Assembly, black
❑ (1) 260cc (8.8 oz) Fuel Tank Assembly
❑ (1) Cowling
❑ (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting
You will also need to acquire these items (not supplied):
❑ (1) R/C Engine and suitable Propeller
❑ (1) Silicone Sealer (common kitchen & bath type)
ENGINE AND MOUNTS
The engine shown in these instructions, is a typical .46 size
2-stroke engine. The engine is mounted in the upright position,
providing easy access for field adjustments.
1) Bolt the engine mounts in place on the front of the firewall with
four M3 x 20mm mounting bolts and four M3 flat metal washers.
Leave the mounting bolts slightly loose for the moment - do not
tighten them until the next step.
9) Use a marker pen to mark the location of the set screw on the
nose gear wire. Remove the wire and file or grind a flat spot in the
wire for the set screw to rest in. Then reassemble the parts,
tightening the set screw securely. The flat spot will help insure that
your nose gear steering doesn’t slip.
2) Set your engine in place on the beams of the engine mounts. If
the beams of the mounts are too far apart to fit your engine, slide
the mounts closer together. If they are already too close together,
slide them apart. Notice that the holes in the mounts for the bolts
are slotted to allow you to adjust the mounts to fit your engine.
After you get the mounts in correct position, tighten all four
mounting bolts, securing the engine mounts on the firewall.
GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION
Skip this section if you are planning to use an electric motor.
Detailed instructions on installing an electric power system begin
on page 16.
3) Slide the engine forward or aft on the engine mounts until the
front of the engine's thrust washer is 4-1/2" from the front of the
firewall.
11
Adjust as many times as necessary to make sure that the Propeller
comes out the center of the openings. THE PROPELLER MUST
NOT TOUCH THE SPINNER! When you have it in the right
position, tighten the Prop Nut.
4) Install the Spinner to the Backplate using the two small Screws
provided.
4) Double check to make sure that the engine is pointing exactly
straight forward, and then mark the locations of the engine
mounting holes onto the beams of the Engine Mounts.
5) Unbolt the engine mounts from the firewall and drill holes thru
the beams of the mounts at each location. We recommend that
you secure the engine mounts in a vise while you drill the holes.
Also, if at all possible, use a drill press to drill these holes. You can
drill them by hand, but if you have access to a drill press the job
will be much easier and the holes will be straighter.
NOTE: We have provided 4-40 x 1" Mounting Bolts and 4-40
Aircraft Lock Nuts and Washers for mounting your engine to the
Engine Mounts. Unfortunately, engines in the .40 to .46 size range
are right at the break point between using 4-40 size or 6-32 size
mounting bolts. In other words, some .40-.46 engines have small
holes in their case for 4-40 bolts only, while other .40-.46 engines
have holes large enough to accommodate 6-32 bolts. If your
engine allows 6-32 bolts, and you want to use that size, you will
have to obtain those bolts and nuts from your local hobby shop.
FUEL TANK
Notice in the following photos that the correct orientation of the fuel
tank in the airplane is on its flat side with the neck towards the right
side of the airplane.
Drill 1/8" dia. holes if you are using the 4-40 Bolts provided.
Drill 5/32" dia. holes if you are using 6-32 Mounting Bolts.
1) Open the bag containing the fuel tank parts. Inside the tank is
a piece of flexible fuel tubing. Reach inside with a tweezers or
needle nose pliers to get a hold of the fuel tubing and pull it out.
CAUTION: Don’t squeeze too hard and put a hole in the tubing!
Now shake the tank a few times to make sure there is no dirt or
plastic shavings inside!
2) Take a close look at the rubber stopper. Notice that it has two
open holes and one closed one. We will only be using the two
open holes. Leave the third hole closed.
6) When you're finished drilling the holes, bolt the engine to
the Engine Mounts. Then bolt the entire engine/engine mount
assembly back onto the front of the Firewall. Tighten all bolts and
nuts securely.
Assemble the front metal clamp, the rubber stopper, and the rear
metal clamp with the bolt. Screw the bolt in until the parts just
touch each other - do not tighten at this time. Rotate the front and
rear metal clamps until their holes line up with the two open holes
in the rubber stopper. You should be able to see daylight
completely through the two holes.
SPINNER
1) Choose the correct diameter Prop Shaft Adapter ring to fit your
engine's crankshaft. Press the adapter ring into the hole in the
middle of the spinner Backplate.
3) Use the shortest of the three supplied aluminum tubes for the
tank fuel feed tube. Use the longest of the supplied tubes for the
tank vent tube. Carefully poke the aluminum tubes through the two
open holes in the stopper assembly. Keep pushing the tubes in
until 3/8" of tube sticks out in front of the stopper. PLAN AHEAD:
The two aluminum tubes should end up horizontally opposed to
each other at the top of the stopper. The short fuel feed tube
should be on the left side, and the long vent tube on the right.
2) Slide the spinner Backplate on to the engine’s crankshaft,
followed by your Propeller, then the Prop Washer, and finally the
Prop Nut. Tighten the Prop Nut just finger tight for now.
3) Slip the Spinner in place and check to see if the Propeller
clears the openings. If necessary, loosen the Prop Nut, reposition
the Propeller, re-tighten the Prop Nut, and then check again.
12
8) Trial fit the tank in place inside the fuselage to familiarize
yourself with how it mounts. The neck of the tank should fit through
the hole in the firewall.
4) Put the plain end of a #47 drill bit about 1/4" inside the back end
of the vent tube. Using the drill bit for leverage, slowly bend the
back end of the vent tube upwards at least 45O. Try not to put a
kink in the aluminum tube.
9) Apply a generous bead of silicone sealer around the neck of the
tank (regular household bathroom type silicone sealer, available at
most hardware stores, is recommended). Slide the tank in place in
the fuselage. Push the tank firmly up against the back side of the
firewall, compressing the silicone sealer to make a good seal. If
excess silicone sealer oozes out onto the front of the firewall, clean
it off.
Test fit the completed stopper assembly into the neck of the fuel
tank. Rotate the stopper so the aluminum tubes are horizontal at
the top of the stopper. Hold the tank up to a strong light and look
inside to see if the vent tube is close to the top of the tank. If not,
adjust the bend in the vent tube as needed.
5) Cut the piece of silicone fuel tubing that came with the tank to
3-1/2” long. Slide one end of the fuel tubing onto the back end of
the aluminum fuel feed tube. Attach the metal clunk pickup on the
other end of the fuel tubing.
10) Cut a piece of scrap wood 3-1/4” long (can be stick or sheet,
balsa or plywood) to use as a rear tank brace. Reach in through
the servo area and wedge the brace between the fuselage sides,
right up tight against the back end of the tank. Spread some Slow
CA glue on the ends of the brace to glue it to the fuselage sides.
(HINT: Put some glue on the end of a long stick or nail, then reach
in and dab the glue on the ends of the brace.) This brace will
insure that the tank cannot shift backwards in flight.
6) Test fit the stopper back in the tank to make sure the clunk can
swing freely freely from side-to-side, whether the tank is right side
up or upside down, without hitting the back of the tank. If it hits the
back end of the tank, take the stopper back out, shorten the length
of the silicone tubing a little, and then test again. Shorten the fuel
tubing a small amount at a time until the clunk can swing freely
inside the tank.
11) Cut strips of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber (not supplied) to fit
between the sides of the fuel tank and the fuselage sides - see first
photo on next page. This is to keep the tank from shifting sideways
in flight. Cut another strip of 1/2” thick soft foam rubber to lay on
top of the tank, filling the space between the tank and the Hatch.
Then screw the Hatch in place.
7) When everything is right, tighten the screw in the stopper cap
until the cap is snug in the neck of the tank. Then test the fuel tank
for leaks! Fill your kitchen sink with water. Slip a piece of fuel line
tubing onto the tank vent tube. Submerge the tank in the water,
holding your thumb firmly over the fuel feed tube. Blow air into the
other end of the fuel tubing and watch for air bubbles coming
around the cap of the tank. If it's leaking, tighten the screw in the
cap a little at a time until the leaking stops.
12) Cut two 6" lengths of silicone fuel tubing, and install them on
the two aluminum fuel tubes coming out of the firewall. Attach the
fuel feed line to the engine's carburetor and the vent line to the
pressure fitting on the muffler. NOTE: Trim off any excess length
13
of fuel line tubing. The fuel lines should be kept as short as
possible for best fuel draw, but not so short that there is danger of
them coming off in flight. Leave a little slack in the lines.
quickly made by measuring the diameter of the engine head and
the overall length of the engine. It will serve as an undersize
starting point for removal of material.
2) Cut or grind out the material inside the lines of your pattern. Be
aware that there are no hard and fast rules for the perfect shape
for the cutout in the cowling. The best method is to “sneak up” on
final shape, trial fitting the cowling over the engine and adjusting
the cutout as often as necessary. Make sure you achieve access
to the engine’s needle valve and to the fuel line tubing at the carb.
NOTE: A Dremel® tool, or similar power tool, with a coarse grit
sanding drum is without a doubt the best tool to use for removing
the cowling material quickly, easily and accurately. However, if you
do not have access to such a power tool, you can cut the opening
with a drill and a hobby knife. First drill a series of almost touching
holes inside the pattern lines (1/8” dia. works well). Then use the
knife to cut through the connecting material between each hole.
Smooth the edges of the opening with the file or a sanding block.
3) When satisfied with the opening, place the cowling over the
engine and in correct position on the front of the fuselage. Mount
the propeller and spinner on the engine. Move the cowling into
correct position on the fuselage, leaving a 3/32” to 1/8” gap
between the front of the cowling and the back of the spinner, for
clearance. Tape the cowling in exact position using a low-tack tape.
WHEN FILLING THE FUEL TANK
To fill a fuel tank with this vent arrangement, first remove the fuel
lines from the carburetor and the muffler pressure fitting. Pump the
fuel into the tank through the fuel feed line (carb line). When the
tank is full, fuel will begin to run out the vent line (muffler line). Stop
pumping when you see the fuel start to come out the vent line! Reconnect the fuel lines and you are ready to start the engine.
4) Near the rear of the cowling are four small pre-drilled holes two on each side of the airplane. These holes are for the cowl
mounting screws. With the cowling in exact position, drill a 1/16"
dia. pilot hole in the fuselage side, through any one of the cowl
mounting holes. Install an M2.6 x 10mm screw into the pilot hole
and screw it in place - do not over-tighten the screw. Recheck the
overall fit of the cowling on the fuselage to make sure nothing has
shifted, and make any necessary adjustments to the tape. Then on
the opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" pilot hole
and install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the
remaining two cowl mounting holes. Then remove the tape.
COWLING
1) An opening needs to be made in the top of the cowling to clear
the engine head and allow access to the carburetor. Begin by
marking a centerline on the top of the cowl, as shown.
Then take width and length measurements off your engine and
transfer them to the top of the cowl, using the centerline as the
base reference point. The simple pattern shown in the photo was
14
THROTTLE PUSHROD
❑ (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)
❑ (1) 1/16” dia. x 16” Straight Music Wire Pushrod
❑ (1) Brass Pushrod Connector
❑ (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer
❑ (1) 4-40 x 1/8” Pushrod Connector Bolt
7) Slide the unbent end of the throttle pushrod wire inside the
plastic outer sleeve as you re-bolt your engine/engine mounts to
the firewall. When the pushrod wire gets to the throttle servo, slide
the end of the wire inside the pushrod connector.
1) The first step is to install your throttle servo in the fuselage,
using the rubber grommets, eyelets, and screws that came with the
servo. Mount the servo in the front opening in the servo tray,
lengthwise across the fuselage. The servo arm should be towards
the right side of the airplane, as shown in the following pictures.
2) The plastic outer sleeve for the throttle pushrod is already
installed in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so that
approximately 1-1/2” sticks out in front of the firewall. Then
permanently glue the sleeve to the firewall and to the fuselage
former that is in front of the servos.
3) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the outer
hole of the throttle servo arm (see diagram of Pushrod Connector
on page 4). NOTE: It may be necessary to open up the hole in the
servo arm with a 1/16” drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely.
8) Hold the engine’s throttle arm in high throttle position, put the
throttle servo in high throttle position, and then tighten the set
screw in the pushrod connector at the servo.
4) A piece of straight Music Wire 1/16” dia. x 16” long is provided
to make the throttle pushrod. Put a “Z-BEND” in one end of the
pushrod (refer to page __ for instructions on making Z-BENDS in
music wire). This will be the end of the pushrod that hooks up to
the engine’s throttle.
5) Just back from that "Z-BEND" you need to put 2 more bends in
this wire to move the "Z-BEND" over in line with the engine's throttle arm. If you are using a typical .40-.46 size 2-stroke engine, with
a standard carburetor, bend your wire to match the pattern shown
here. It should work in most cases!
NOTE: Most 2-stroke R/C engine carburetors will provide high
throttle when the throttle arm is pushed fully forward. Check your
carburetor and confirm the correct direction of travel for "low" and
"high" throttle movement.
9) Plug the throttle servo into your fully charged radio system (see
radio owner’s manual) so you can test the operation of the throttle
pushrod. If your throttle servo is moving in the wrong direction, use
the transmitter’s “servo reversing” feature to change it. Make
adjustments to the throttle pushrod setup until you can achieve
these results from movement of the transmitter throttle stick and
throttle trim lever:
NOTE: This offset in the throttle pushrod wire may need to be
slightly different depending upon the exact location of your
engine's carburetor control arm. Some arms may be a little closer
to the fuselage side, while some may be closer to the engine's
center-line. For most 2-stroke .40-.46 R/C engines, it will simply
be a matter of increasing or decreasing the angle of these two
bends to change the total distance of the offset in the wire. If you
need to change the bends, change both bends the same amount,
always keeping the two legs of the wire parallel to each other.
STICK FORWARD
TRIM FORWARD
HIGH SPEED
6) Temporarily unbolt the engine/engine mounts from the firewall
so that you can insert the "Z-BEND" into the bottom hole of the
engine's throttle arm. NOTE: You may be need to enlarge the hole
in the throttle arm with a 1/16” bit to accept the Z-BEND.
STICK BACK
TRIM FORWARD
GOOD IDLE
STICK BACK
TRIM BACK
KILL ENGINE
NOTE: Adjusting carburetor linkage can be a little tricky! If you
have binding, check for an incorrect amount of offset (bend) in the
15
pushrod wire at the carburetor. If necessary, re-bend the wire to
eliminate the bind. If the throttle servo is binding or “stalling”
because it has too much travel compared to the carburetor travel,
try using your transmitter’s “End Point Adjustment” feature to dial in
the proper amount of travel. If that doesn’t work, you may need to
move the pushrod connectors to different holes in the servo or carburetor arms. You may also need to loosen the pushrod
connectors to re-adjust the overall pushrod length. All or some of
these things may need to be adjusted to get the carburetor
working properly.
The installation of your glow engine is now completed. Skip the
next section on electric motors and proceed directly to “RADIO
INSTALLATION” on page 18.
1) There are four sets of “cross-hairs” etched on the front of the
plywood firewall to mark the locations of the mounting holes for the
Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount. To install this mount on
the firewall you will need to purchase (4) 4-40 x 1/2” Socket-Head
Bolts, (4) #4 Flat Metal Washers, and (4) 4-40 Blind Nuts. Drill the
four mounting holes with a 9/64” or #27 drill bit.
ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION
If you are going to use an electric motor system in your KADET
LT-40, you will need to acquire these items (not supplied):
❑ (1) Electric Motor and suitable Propeller
❑ (1) Motor Mount
❑ (1) set of Mounting Bolts and Blind Nuts
❑ (1) ESC (Electronic Speed Control)
❑ (1) Battery Pack
❑ (1) set of Connectors (Battery-ESC)
❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop (Velcro®) sticky-back Tape
❑ (1) 3/4” wide hook-and-loop (Velcro®) Strap
❑ (1) Cowling
❑ (4) M2.6 x 10mm Screws for cowl mounting
There are literally dozens of good electric motors and accessories
on the market that are suitable for flying the KADET LT-40. All of
them have their own unique features and dimensions, making
it impossible to write detailed instructions for every brand. As
mentioned in the beginning of this manual, we will be installing a
Maxx Products #HC3528-1000 brushless outrunner electric motor,
with the Maxx Products #ACC3958 Motor Mount, and a Castle
Creations ESC. Even if you use other brands, the following
instructions should provide you with enough quidance to
successfully install your electric power system.
NOTE: If you are using a different mount, line your mount up on the
firewall according to the horizontal and vertical thrust lines that are
etched in the plywood. Then drill appropriate holes where needed
for your mounting bolts.
2) Install the blind nuts on the back of the firewall. The best method
is to use one of your mounting bolts, with a flat washer on it, from
the front side of the firewall to “draw” the blind nut into the back
side. Keep tightening the bolt until the prongs of the blind nut are
completely locked into the plywood. After you get all four blind nuts
in place, apply a little glue around the flanges of the blind nuts to
keep them from coming loose. Be careful not to get any glue in the
threads of the blind nuts.
HELPFUL HINT: It’s never easy putting a blind nut on the backside
of the firewall of a pre-built model. Here’s a handy trick! Take a
stick of scrap balsa wood - 1/4” sq. x 10”-12” long works well in
most cases - and put a piece of doubled-up tape (any kind) on the
end, and then stick the blind nut to the tape. With this stick you can
reach inside the nose of the airplane and hold the blind nut in
position while you screw in the mounting bolt from the front of the
firewall. If the model structure doesn’t allow a straight shot at the
location, cut an angle on the end of the stick to allow you to hold
the blind nut at the correct angle.
IMPORTANT NOTE ON MOTOR MOUNTS: If you are using a
different brand electric motor or motor mount, you need to make
sure that the combination you select can provide exactly 4-1/2”
distance from the front of the prop adaptor to the front of the
firewall (i.e. back of the mount). 4-1/2” is the distance needed for
the cowling to fit properly.
16
3) Bolt your motor and mount onto the firewall. Use thread
locking compound (not supplied) on all the bolt threads.
c) Mount your ESC inside the nose of the airplane, just behind
the firewall. Stick it to the fuselage bottom with a 1-1/2” long piece
of 3/4” wide “hook & loop” tape (not supplied).
4) Additional holes are needed in the firewall to allow air to flow
back inside the fuselage to cool the battery and the ESC in flight.
We recommend drilling three new 3/8” dia. holes in the approximate
locations shown in this photo. These holes, in addition to the ones
already there for the nose gear pushrod and the glow motor
mounting, will provide adequate cooling air going into the fuselage.
NOTE: Hook-and-loop “tape” has either the hook or the loop on
only one side of the strip. The other side is sticky back.
7) Cut 3 small pieces of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop tape (not
supplied) and stick them on the battery compartment floor, where
shown in the following photo. Put a long strip of the mating tape
on the bottom of each of your battery packs. This will keep your
battery pack from shifing position in flight.
8) Cut two 9” long pieces of 3/4” wide hook-and-loop strap
material (not supplied). Install the two straps in the battery
compartment as shown, running them through the slots in the
plywood floor. Anchor the straps to the backside of the plywood
with a few drops of glue. These straps will keep your battery pack
from falling out of the airplane.
NOTE: Hook-and-loop “strap” has the hook surface on one side of
the strip and the loop surface on the other side. You can overlap
the ends of the strip and stick them together, effectively creating a
strap to hold your battery pack securely in position.
5) The cooling air must have a place to exit the fuselage. Using a
sharp new blade in your hobby knife, cut a 1” x 3” opening in the
bottom of the fuselage, 16” behind the landing gear. After making
the opening, seal and toughen the edges of the bare balsa wood
with a coat of Thin CA glue or epoxy.
9) Mount the cowling to the fuselage with the four M2.6 x 10mm
Screws provided. Note that four holes for the screws are already
in the cowling - two on each side. Tape the cowling in correct
position on the fuselage, using a low-tack tape. Use a 1/16" drill
bit to make a guide hole through one of the upper cowl mounting
holes and into the fuselage side. Install an M2.6 x 10mm Screw
into the drilled hole and screw it in place - do not over-tighten
the screw. Recheck the overall fit of the cowl and make any
adjustments needed with tape to hold it in place. Then on the
opposite side of the fuselage, drill another 1/16" guide hole and
install a screw into that hole. Repeat this process for the
remaining two cowl mounting holes. Remove the tape.
6) a) Solder the appropriate connector (not supplied) to the
battery leads of your ESC.
b) Pass the motor leads of the ESC through the bottom right
cooling hole you made in back in Step 4. Connect the leads to the
motor. Operate the motor and check the direction of rotation. If
you need to reverse the rotation, refer to the instructions that came
with the motor and ESC.
17
10) OPTIONAL SPINNER: A 2” dia. spinner is included in this kit.
No doubt it will be used by almost everyone who is installing a glow
engine. However with an electric motor you may prefer to not use
the spinner in order to allow more cooling air to flow into the
cowling. If you do elect to use a spinner, check after the first
couple flights for any sign of the motor overheating. If you think it’s
getting too hot, you may need to make some additional openings
in the front of the cowling for additional cooling air to enter. Also
make sure you have plenty of exit area for the air. In any fully
cowled installation (glow or electric), it is critical that you have
slightly more exit area than incoming area. Having more exit area
creates a positive air flow through the cowling - a suction affect drawing the heated air out of the cowling so that more cool air can
come in.
grommets so far that the grommets loose all shock absorbing
ability. Tighten the screws just enough to make contact with the
grommets and keep the servos in place.
RADIO INSTALLATION
NOTE: The receiver and servos of different brand radios are not all
the same size! Consequently, it is practically impossible for us to
guarantee that every word and picture in this next sequence will
pertain exactly to your installation. As you go along, you may notice
some differences between your radio equipment and ours.
Nonetheless, most of the radio system components will be close
enough in size and appearance that you should be able to figure
out for yourself how to handle any minor differences. Follow the
instructions as closely as possible. If you have any questions, seek
the advice of an experienced modeler. The installation of the
control system in your new model is very important! It must be
done correctly in order for your airplane to fly successfully.
NOSE GEAR PUSHROD
❑ (1) Nylon Outer Pushrod Sleeve (already in the fuselage)
❑ (1) 1/16” dia. x 16” straight Music Wire Pushrod
❑ (1) Brass Pushrod Connector
❑ (1) Plastic Pushrod Connector Retainer
❑ (1) 4-40 x 1/8” Pushrod Connector Bolt
1) Install a complete Pushrod Connector assembly in the
outermost hole of the nose gear Steering Arm. Install the Pushrod
Connector on the BOTTOM of the Steering Arm. NOTE: It will
probably be necessary to open up the hole in the steering arm with
a 1/16” drill bit to allow the connector to go in freely.
INSTALL THE SWITCH
The first step is to mount the radio's on/off switch in the left side of
the fuselage (the side away from the exhaust). Start by using the
switch cover plate as a template to mark the location and size of
the opening and the two holes for the mounting screws. Use a
modeling knife to cut the opening. Use a 1/16" dia. drill to make
the holes for the screws. Install the switch.
CAUTION: Make sure the opening for the switch's on/off lever is
just slightly bigger than the lever, so that the switch will operate
without catching or binding on the wood.
2) The plastic outer sleeve for the nose gear pushrod is already
installed in the fuselage, but not glued. Position the sleeve so that
the front end is flush with the front of the firewall. Then glue the
plastic pushrod tubing permanently in the hole in the left side of the
fuselage former, in front of the servos.
3) A piece of straight 1/16” dia. Music Wire is provided to make the
nose gear pushrod. Use a diagonal cutting pliers to cut the piece
to 14" long. Remove any burrs from the ends of the wire with a file.
INSTALL THE ELEVATOR & RUDDER SERVOS
Mount your elevator and rudder servos in the plywood Servo Tray
using the screws and rubber grommets that came with your radio
system. Be sure to orient the servos in the tray as shown here.
4) Make a "Z-BEND" in one end of the 14” wire. This will be the
end of the pushrod that attaches to the rudder servo. See
“MAKING A Z-BEND IN 5 EASY STEPS” on page 23.
CAUTION: The rubber grommets that came with your servos act
as shock absorbers and prevent engine vibration from damaging
the electronics in the servos. Do not over tighten the servo
mounting screws to the point where they compress the rubber
5) Insert the Z-BEND into the middle hole of the rudder servo arm.
The Z-BEND should go into the servo arm from the BOTTOM, as
shown in the next photo.
18
1) Hold the Nylon Control Horn in position on the left side of the
rudder and mark the location of the mounting holes. Drill pilot
holes through the rudder with a 1/16" dia. drill bit (turn the bit with
your fingers or a pin vise - a power drill is not necessary).
6) Slide the unbent end of the pushrod wire inside the plastic
outer sleeve, starting from the servo end. As the plain end of the
wire exits the firewall, insert it into the pushrod connector on the
steering arm.
2) Mount the Control Horn onto the rudder with the Retainer Plate
and Bolts.
7) Point the nose wheel straight ahead, check that the rudder
servo is in neutral position, and then tighten the set screw in the
pushrod connector on the steering arm.
8) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation
of the nose gear. If you sense any binding in the nose gear
movement, find the cause and fix it now.
NOTE: The exact amount of nose wheel travel is not as critical as
the other flight control surfaces will be. A good rule of thumb,
especially for new pilots, is that less travel of the nose wheel is
better than more! You do not need any more than 10O-15O of
travel each way!
3) Cut one of the 10" Threaded Rods to 5" overall length. Cut the
plain end of the rod, not the threaded end!
4) Coat all of the unthreaded portion of the 5” rod with a very thin
layer of epoxy glue, and then proceed immediately to the next step
before the glue dries.
5) Slide the glue coated end of the 5" threaded rod inside the 1/8”
O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginning of
the threads. Now get a good grip on the threaded portion of the
rod, and start screwing the threads into the tubing. Keep turning
the rod until at least 3/16" of threads are inside the nylon tubing.
Wipe off any excess epoxy glue, and set the assembly aside to dry.
RUDDER PUSHROD
❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn
❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer
❑ (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn
❑ (1) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube
❑ (2) 2-56 x 10” Threaded Rods
❑ (2) Nylon R/C Links
NOTE: If you need to hold onto the threaded portion of the rod with
a pliers in order to screw it in, use a cloth between the rod and the
jaws of your pliers to avoid damaging the threads.
6) After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C Link halfway onto the
exposed threads of the steel rod.
19
the transmitter's rudder control stick, the rudder should move
approximately 1" right and 1" left.
NOTE: If you are not getting the correct amount of rudder travel, try
using your transmitter’s “End Point Adjustment” feature to dial in
the proper amount. Also fine tune the overall length of the rudder
pushrod, by screwing one or both of the nylon R/C Links further in
or out, until the rudder is neutral when the transmitter is neutral.
7) From the tail end of the airplane, slide the rudder pushrod
inside the pushrod sleeve that is already in the fuselage. Slide it in
until the nylon R/C Link is even with the rudder control horn. Pry
open the R/C link and clip it into the outermost hole of the rudder
control horn. Now reach into the fuselage and try operating the
rudder from the servo end of the pushrod. It should work smooth
and easy. If not, figure out why and fix it now before proceeding.
ELEVATOR PUSHROD
❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn
❑ (1) Nylon Control Horn Retainer
❑ (2) M2 x 12mm Bolts, for control horn
❑ (1) 1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube
8) a) Now clip another R/C Link into the rudder servo arm - on the
side of the servo opposite the nose gear pushrod.
b) Set the rudder in neutral position.
c) Mark the inner pushrod tube exactly 1/8" from the end of the
R/C Link.
d) Unhook the R/C Link from the rudder horn and slide the
pushrod tube back out of the airplane. Cut off the tube at the mark
just made, using a sharp razor blade or modeling knife.
1) Mount a Nylon Control Horn on the bottom of the Elevator using
two M2 x 12mm Bolts. Make sure the Elevator Horn is in the
center of the tail opening so that the R/C link won't hit the fuse
sides.
2) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat
all of the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxy
glue, and then proceed immediately to the next step before the
glue dries.
3) Slide the glue coated end of the 7" long threaded rod inside the
1/8” O.D. x 38” Nylon Pushrod Tube, all the way up to the beginning
of the threads. Then screw at least 3/16" of threads inside the
tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue. After the glue dries, screw
a nylon R/C link halfway onto the exposed threads of the steel rod.
4) Slide the elevator pushrod inside the pushrod sleeve that is
already in the fuselage. Slide it in until the nylon R/C Link can be
snapped into the bottom hole of the elevator control horn. Then
reach into the fuselage and try operating the elevator from the
servo end of the pushrod. It should work smooth and easy. If not,
figure out why and fix it now before proceeding.
9) Cut a 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat the
plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue.
Immediately slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end of
the rudder pushrod tube. Screw at least 3/16" of threads into the
tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue and let dry.
10) Slide the rudder pushrod back inside the sleeve in the fuselage
and clip the rear R/C Link back onto the elevator horn. At the
servor end of the pushrod, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto the
exposed threads of the steel rod. Then clip that R/C link into the
rudder servo arm.
11) Plug the rudder servo into the receiver and test the operation
of the rudder. If you sense any binding in the rudder movement,
find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of
20
5) Clip another R/C Link into the elevator servo arm. Set the
elevator in neutral position. Mark the servo end of the pushrod
tube exactly 1/8" from the end of the R/C Link. Unhook the R/C
Link from the elevator horn and slide the pushrod tube back out of
the airplane. Cut off the tube at the mark just made, using a sharp
razor blade or modeling knife.
3) Tape the ailerons in neutral position (the bottom of the ailerons
and the bottom of the wing should be flush). Then hold the
pushrod wires up against the servo arm and carefully mark each
wire at the holes in the servo arm. This is the neutral position
mark.
6) Cut another 10" Threaded Steel Rod to 7" overall length. Coat
the plain portion of the 7” rod with a very thin layer of epoxy glue.
Immediately slide the plain end of the rod inside the servo end of
the elevator pushrod tube. Screw at least 3/16" of threads into the
tubing. Wipe off any excess epoxy glue and let dry.
7) After the glue dries, screw a nylon R/C link halfway onto the
exposed threads of the steel rod. Clip the R/C link into the
elevator servo arm.
4) Measure 3/16” from the neutral position mark, towards the
unthreaded end of the wire, and make another mark. Now make
a third mark 1/4” away from the 3/16” mark.
8) Plug the elevator servo into the receiver and test the operation of
the elevator. If there is any binding in the movement, find the cause
and fix it now. With full up and down movement of the transmitter's
elevator control stick, the elevator should move approximately 9/16"
up and 9/16" down.
5) Use a cutting pliers to cut the wires at the 1/4” mark. Put a “ZBEND” in the end of each wire, using the remaining marks as your
guides.
AILERON PUSHRODS
6) Unclip the R/C Links from the torque rods so that you can insert
the Z-BENDS into the holes in the servo arm. After they are
installed, clip the R/C Links back on the torque rods. NOTE: You
will probably have to drill out the holes in the servo arm a little bit
to allow the Z-BENDS to go in.
1) Mount a servo in the plywood Aileron Servo Mount, which is
already installed on the bottom of the wing. REMEMBER: Do not
over tighten the servo mounting screws to the point where they
compress the rubber grommets too far.
7) Re-adjust the overall length of the aileron pushrods by
screwing the Nylon R/C Links further in or out, as needed to get
both ailerons into neutral position at the same time. Make sure the
aileron servo is neutral while doing this.
2) The aileron pushrods are made from two 10" Threaded Steel
Rods. Screw a nylon R/C Link halfway onto the threaded end of
each rod. Then clip the R/C Links into the holes in the Nylon
Aileron Connectors and line up the pushrods with the servo arms.
8) Plug the aileron servo into the receiver and test the operation
of the ailerons. If you sense any binding in the aileron movement,
21
find the cause and fix it now. With full right and left movement of
the transmitter's aileron control stick, the ailerons should move
approximately 3/8" up and 3/8" down.
a) Drill a 1/16" dia. hole completely through the bottom of the
fuselage a couple inches behind the main landing gear. This hole
is for the receiver antenna wire to exit the fuselage. Put a single
drop of Thin CA glue on the hole to harden the edges and keep the
covering from coming loose. Let dry completely!
b) Poke the antenna wire down through the hole in the bottom
of the fuselage from the inside. Make sure the antenna wire is not
tangled up in the servo and battery wires! Continue pulling the
antenna out the bottom of the fuselage as far as you can.
RECEIVER BATTERY PACK
Wrap the battery pack with a single layer of 1/2” thick soft foam
rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or
rubber bands to hold the foam around the battery. Install the
wrapped battery pack inside the nose of the model, under the fuel
tank floor. Try to keep the battery pack as far to the right side of
the fuselage as possible to avoid interfering with the nose gear
pushrod.
c) Anchor the loose end of the antenna on the outside of the
model near the rear of the fuselage using a T-Pin and small rubber
band (not supplied). Stick the T-Pin into the bottom of the fuselage
and glue securely in place. Tie the rubber band to the antenna and
then loop it over the T-Pin. The antenna should be just taught, not
tight! The rubber band allows a certain amount of give in case the
antenna is snagged by accident.
RECEIVER
IMPORTANT: Do not cut the antenna wire coming out of the
receiver or attempt to fly your model with the antenna wire folded
or coiled up! The antenna length is predetermined by the radio
manufacturer for best signal reception. Shortening or lengthening
the antenna wire can detune the receiver.
1) Following the radio manufacturer's instructions, plug all the
wires for the servos, battery pack, and switch harness into the
receiver so the radio system is fully operational. Double check to
be sure that each servo is plugged into its correct receiver
terminal and that it is responding properly. NOTE: Since the
receiver will be hard to get at, you should use a short "extension"
wire (available from the radio manufacturer) for the ailerons. Plug
the extension wire into the receiver's aileron terminal. Whenever
you take the wing on/off the model, you can connect/disconnect
the ailerons at the plug-in between the extension wire and the
servo wire, leaving the extension wire itself permanently plugged
into the receiver.
Optional: It’s a good idea to install an antenna “strain relief" fitting
on the antenna wire, inside the airplane, right where the antenna
exits the bottom of the fuselage. Some radio manufacturers
include a strain relief fitting with their systems. If not, you can
make one simply by drilling three 1/16” dia. holes in a small piece
of thin plastic, as shown in the next photo. Thread the antenna
back and forth through the holes. Position the fitting on the
antenna wire to provide a little bit of slack between in the fitting and
the receiver. This keeps the rubber band from constantly pulling
on the antenna at the receiver.
2) Wrap the receiver with a single layer of 1/2" thick soft foam
rubber to insulate it from engine vibration and shock. Use tape or
rubber bands to hold the foam around the receiver.
3) Install the wrapped receiver inside the nose of the model, right
behind the battery pack. If the receiver seems loose in the nose of
the model, pack additional pieces of foam rubber around it to make
sure it cannot move around in flight. Make sure the receiver
antenna wire is accessible at the back of the receiver, free and
clear of all the other wires.
4) NOTE: The following step describes running the antenna
outside the airplane along the bottom of the fuselage. There are a
lot of other ways to handle the routing of a receiver antenna. If you
prefer a different method, by all means use it.
22
BALANCE YOUR AIRPLANE!
MAKING A “Z-BEND” (In 5 Easy Steps)
We know that your KADET LT-40 looks done and you’re anxious to
go out and fly it, BUT WAIT A MINUTE - IT’S NOT REALLY DONE
YET! It must be balanced. All airplanes, model or full-size, must
be accurately balanced in order to fly successfully. An airplane
that is not properly balanced will be unstable and will most likely
crash!
Step 1: Using a pencil or
felt-tip pen, put a mark 1/4”
from the end of the wire
you want the “Z-BEND” in.
Then make another mark
3/16” past the first mark.
PRELIMINARY: To balance your KADET LT-40, all of the parts
and components must be installed in their correct positions on the
model. The battery pack and receiver must be installed in their
correct locations; the propeller, spinner, and muffler must
be installed on the engine; the fuel tank and fuel lines must be
installed and connected; and every other piece of essential
equipment must be installed, ready for flight. ALWAYS BALANCE
THE KADET LT-40 WITH THE FUEL TANK EMPTY!
Step 2: With a pliers, bend the wire 90 degrees, as tight
as you can, at the 1/4” mark (the mark nearest the end.
RECOMMENDED BALANCE POINT:
Between 3-1/2” to 4-1/4” Behind The Leading
Edge Of The Wing
(Anywhere within this range is acceptable.)
Using a ruler, measure back from the leading edge of the wing and
mark the balance range on the bottom of the wing, next to the
fuselage. Make the same marks on both sides of the fuselage.
Place a fingertip on each pencil mark and lift the airplane up in the
air. No part of the model should be touching anything except your
fingertips! If the KADET LT-40 will sit on your fingertips in a level
attitude, then it is properly balanced and ready to fly.
Step 3: Now, put another tight 90 degree bend at the
second mark, perpendicular to the first bend, as shown.
If the airplane sits on your fingertips in an extreme nose down
attitude, then it is nose heavy. You will have to add weight to the
rear of the airplane to get it to balance. NOTE: Before adding
additional weight to the model, try simply moving the battery pack
to a further aft location. The battery pack is relatively heavy and
therefore makes a good balancing tool. You might try switching
places between the battery and receiver; or move the battery right
in front of the servos; or in extreme situations, move it behind the
servos. If you can’t get your model balanced simply by re-locating
the battery pack, then you will have to purchase lead weights from
your hobby dealer and glue them into the tail end of the fuselage.
Step 4: Next, grip the end of the wire as shown, and twist
the end into proper alignment with the rest of the wire.
If the airplane sits on your fingertips with the tail down, it is tail
heavy. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FLY IT! A tail heavy model is very
dangerous and will most likely crash!! Weight will have to be
added to the nose of the model to bring it into balance. The
weights can be glued to the inside of the fuselage “cheeks” in front
of the firewall; or inside the fuselage alongside the fuel tank. There
are also “spinner weights” available for tail heavy models.
Wherever you put the balancing weight, make sure it cannot come
loose in flight!
WHY MODELS MUST BE INDIVIDUALLY BALANCED
It is impossible to produce a model airplane kit that will automatically
have the correct balance point every time. Not everyone uses the
same engine or radio - and all those items can vary in weight! You
might be surprised to know that .40 size 2-stroke R/C model engines
can vary in weight from 11 oz. to 18 oz. - that’s almost a half pound
difference, way out on the nose of your model! There can even be as
much as a 3/4 oz. difference in weight between different brands of
10-6 props! So, that’s why every model must be balanced before
flying. Don’t feel that whatever the balance point your model came out
at is “good enough”. Check carefully and make whatever adjustments
are required. Trying to fly an out of balance model is dangerous!
Step 5: Use a needle nose
pliers to "tweek" (fine tune) the
bends, if needed.
23
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKOUT
LEARNING TO FLY R/C
❑ Be certain to range check your radio equipment according to
the manufacturer’s instructions before attempting to fly.
Learning to fly radio control model airplanes is not a skill you will
learn in a few minutes. It’s very similar to learning to fly a real
airplane in that you should enlist the help of an instructor before
you try to pilot the airplane yourself. A lot of things can go wrong
with these machines, and if you are not prepared to deal with them
instantly, you will loose your brand new airplane in a crash. To
practically eliminate any chance that your first flight will end in
disaster, we strongly recommend that you seek the assistance of
a competent R/C pilot to help you with your first flights.
❑ Run your engine for the first time on the ground. A lot of
problems can be avoided if your new engine has been “broken in”
by running at least two tanks of fuel through it on a test stand
before you attempt to fly.
❑ Double check the alignment and movement of all the controls
one more time! Make sure none of the pushrods are binding or the
servos stalling. Make sure the control surfaces move in the
proper direction when you move the sticks. You’d be amazed to
know how many models have been destroyed on takeoff with one
of the controls reversed. Don’t let it happen to you! It’s a good idea
to get into the habit of checking for proper control response every
time you get ready to fly.
An instructor serves two purposes. First, he will take your model
up for its first test flight to make sure it is performing properly
before you try to fly it. When a brand new R/C model takes off for
the first time, there is no way of knowing which way it is going to
go. Some models will try to climb, while others may want to go
down. Some will turn left, others right. Some models will be doing
both at the same time! It doesn’t mean that there is anything
wrong with the model, but these minor differences must be
“trimmed out” in order for the model to fly “hands-off” straight and
level. An experienced pilot can instantly correct an out of trim
model before it crashes to the ground. An inexperienced beginner
has almost no chance of saving an out of trim model!
❑ Adjust all of your pushrod linkages so that the control surfaces
are in their neutral position when the transmitter sticks and trim
levers are centered. When you get to the flying field, don’t be
surprised if the elevator and rudder are suddenly misaligned after
you had them perfect at home. Temperature and humidity changes
can cause nylon pushrods, like those on the KADET LT-40’s
elevator and rudder, to shrink or expand slightly. If they are just
slightly out of neutral, use the trim levers on the transmitter to
neutralize them again right before flying.
❑
The second reason for an instructor is to have someone there who
can correct any mistakes you make when you take over the
controls for the first time. Let the instructor get the model airborne
and flying straight and level at a safe attitude (“several mistakes
high” as the old saying goes) before he turns the transmitter over
to you. You will quickly find out that it is very easy to over control
an R/C model and to get disoriented - EVERYONE DOES IT AT
FIRST! If you get out of control on your first flight, quickly hand the
transmitter back to your instructor so he can rescue the airplane.
He will get it leveled off and then let you try it again. Without an
instructor, you would not get a second chance!
RECOMMENDED CONTROL SURFACE TRAVEL
ELEVATOR: 9/16” UP, 9/16” DOWN
RUDDER: 1” LEFT, 1” RIGHT
AILERONS: 3/8” UP, 3/8” DOWN
THROTTLE:
Carburetor
Result
Tx Stick Trim Lever
Forward Forward
Full Open
High Speed
Back
Forward
Slight Open
Good Idle
Back
Back
Full Closed
Kill Engine
In addition to not over controlling, another problem beginners need
to overcome is the left/right control reversal that happens when a
model is flying towards you one minute, away from you the next.
For example, if you were seated in the cockpit of a full-scale
airplane and moved the control stick to the right, the airplane
would always turn to your right. Moving the control stick to the left,
the airplane would always turn to your left. Well that’s not always
true with an R/C airplane! If the model is flying away from you, the
controls are normal - right stick makes the airplane go right, left
stick makes the airplane go left. But when the model is flying
towards you, the controls are reversed - now when you move the
stick to the right, the model turns to its right, but that means it turns
to your left! This control reversal is very confusing to all first time
R/C pilots! More than a few licensed full-scale pilots have found out
that flying R/C airplanes is a lot different than flying full-scale
airplanes because of this phenomenon.
❑ Make sure all of the screws and bolts on your model are tight.
Double check to see that all of the servos are secure, all of the
servo control arms are screwed on firmly, all the R/C Links are
clamped shut.
❑ Charge your radio batteries before every flying session!
FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY!
Do not try to fly your KADET LT-40 in your backyard, at the local
school yard, or in any other heavily populated area! If you have
never seen an R/C airplane of this size fly before, you probably
don’t realize how much room you really need. An area as big as
three football fields, that is free of power lines, trees, poles,
houses, and other obstructions is the minimum amount of room
that you will need. A school yard may look inviting, but it is too close
to people, buildings, power lines, and possible radio interference.
It’s not that learning to fly R/C is difficult, it’s just a lot different than
anything you have ever done before. Anyone can learn to fly the
KADET LT-40 if they are willing to listen and learn!
Fly your KADET LT-40 as often as possible. After you get a few
flights under your belt with an instructor at your side, you will begin
to feel more comfortable at the controls. Soon you will be flying
“solo” with little thought of the moves required. It will just come
naturally! Don’t get discouraged if you have a minor crack-up.
Repair the damage and get back into the air as soon as possible.
The best place to fly your model is at a designated model airplane
flying field. Ask your local hobby dealer or check online to find out
if there is an R/C club and flying field in your area. The local club
field is the ideal place to fly your new Kadet! Joining the local
flying club will not only give you access to a large, safe place to fly,
but you will enjoy being around all types of R/C model airplanes
and talking to their builders.
GOOD LUCK AND SAFE FLYING!
24

SIG MFG. CO., INC. PO Box 520 Montezuma, IA

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