DMM-1863 2010 Catalogue Complete_PDF.indd

Transcription

PRODUCT BROCHURE 2010/11
2
3
Foreword
3
Introduction
4
Technical feature
6
‘What climbing means to me’
climbing feature
8
Carabiners and Quickdraws
16
Locking carabiners
20
Belay and abseil devices
22
Passive protection
23
Nuts
26
Nut extraction
28
Active protection
29
Dragon Cam feature
32
Cams
36
Harnesses
40
‘Arctic Monkeys’
climbing feature
42
Snow and ice
43
Ice axes
46
Crampons
48
Ice protection
50
Bouldering feature
51
Bouldering mats
53
Bags
54
Chalk, helmets and clothing
55
Kids’ climbing
56
Rope and rope bags
58
Slings
60
Steel carabiners
61
Awards, standards
and quality assurance
Foreword and Introduction
Contents
Contents
Foreword
In early 1981 DMM was born as a company, beginning its journey
from infancy to the present day. Many things have changed in
those intervening years, including the disappearance of every
other climbing hardware manufacturer in the UK, leaving DMM
as the ‘last man standing’. Located in Llanberis only five miles
away from our very first premises, DMM is still based in Wales,
UK. From humble beginnings to a position centre stage in the
world market, we are justifiably proud of our history, heritage
and achievements. Not content to rest on our laurels and live on
past achievements, we are as committed as ever to forging ahead
with innovation, development and production of the very finest
climbing hardware money can buy.
3
Introduction
In March this year the first DMM Dragons were unleashed into
the climbing world. Eagerly awaited and much sought after, these
camming devices have more than lived up to their expectations.
In what is in reality a very quick development time for such a
complicated product, many trials and tribulations have been
encountered and overcome in order to bring these stunning products
to market, and huge credit should go to our development team for
their tireless work.
In many ways the Dragons and their development epitomise what
we have come to stand for here at DMM: desire and passion to get
the product right; technical expertise to produce it; vision and flair
to combine aesthetics and functionality; and the backbone and
commitment to once again step up to the mark and be prepared
to invest heavily in development. This has truly been a team effort,
and has called upon all our expertise and knowledge to bring the
project together.
Set this against a background of all the other development work being
carried out and it puts it all into perspective. Five new carabiners, a
new belay device as well as our first own brand range of ropes. It’s an
impressive list of new products to launch in one hit, and it comes at a
cost, a considerable cost, as developing new product is an expensive
game. Bear in mind too that no new products nowadays are ‘simple’,
each and every one is a complicated route to market and can’t be
approached lightly. However, we see this route as the way ahead for
DMM and as the characteristic that sets us apart. Development and
innovation is what our customers expect from us, and we don’t intend
to disappoint. We will continue to design, develop and improve our
range of climbing and mountaineering equipment in order to make
the sport safer and easier for you, our customers. As we move into our
30th year, the line ‘Steeped in Tradition and Committed to Innovation’
has never been more relevant and apt.
Baffin Island, Nunavut,
Canadian Arctic Archipelago.
Photograph © Mike ‘Twid’ Turner
Carabiners come in all shapes and sizes, and therefore all
have different advantages or drawbacks. Ovals are great
for racking or aid climbing and using with pulleys. Offset
D shapes are great all rounders. Bent back versions are
preferred by some, who find them easier to hold and HMS
type biners are ideal for belaying. The key is to choose the
right carabiner to suit the purpose.
We have three types of closure.
Screwgate, Quicklock [double action]
and Locksafe [triple action]. For a more
detailed description of each and a visual
demonstration consult our website at:
Screwgate
www.dmmwales.com
Strength & ID markings
Every DMM carabiner carries two distinct
sets of markings. The first set, along the flat
beam indicate the strengths of the product.
The second set is found on the spine of the
carabiner in the form of a unique serial
number. The number allows every single
item to be individually traced back to its
original date and order of production.
4
A
B
Quicklock
C
Locksafe
A
D
B
C
D
5
Anatomy of a carabiner
Strength markings
Unique ID markings [biner spine]
A
B
C
D
A
B
C
D
Gate Closed strength
Gate Open strength
Minor Axis strength
EEC Directive to which products adhere
Year of manufacture [09 - 2009]
The day of the year the product was marked [119th day]
Individual serial number [1003rd component marked that day]
Machine that serialized the product
[A = Rotary Laser Marker]
Standards and testing
Gate strengths
Major axis
•
When pressed against the gate, 5 kN of force
should open the gate no more than 3 mm.
•
When pressed against the gate, 15 kN of
force should open the gate fully.
A
Gate opening test
B
12mm
pin
•
12mm
pin
C
Minor axis
Oval shape
D shape
Bent Back shape
HMS shape
A 15 mm pin should be able to travel
through the fully open gate without touching
the gate or the nose of the carabiner.
Gate open test
D
15
m
pin m
10mm
pin
E
Carabiner gate types
Straight gate biners are used on the top end of
quickdraws for clipping wires, pegs or bolts.
Bent gates are ideal for clipping the rope, and
as such are used on the bottom end of the
quickdraw. Wire gates are lighter, less prone
to gate flutter [accidental opening of the gate]
and won’t freeze up in winter. Incidentally they
are just as strong as a solid gate.
10mm
pin
Major axis [closed / open]
Major axis [closed / open]
DMM MIN. STRENGTH
BSI MIN. STRENGTH
DMM MIN. STRENGTH
BASIC CARABINER
20 kN / 7 kN
23 kN / 7 kN
7 kN
7 kN
HMS CARABINER
20 kN / 6 kN
24 kN / 8 kN
7 kN
10 kN
OVAL CARABINER
18 kN / 5 kN
25 kN / 7 kN
7 kN
12 kN
CARABINER TYPE
Straight gate
Bent gate
Wire gate
A Rope groove
B Back
C Nose
D Gate opening
E I Beam
Technical feature
Technical feature
Carabiner
strength
guide
Carabiner closures
BSI MIN. STRENGTH
Minor axis
Minor axis
by Lucy Creamer
Climbing for me has always been about
beautiful environments and movement on
rock, rather than equipment and labels –
it’s safe to say I am not a gear freak!
Whereas, when I’m sport climbing these
things don’t have to be considered,
although I do find myself habitually
considering what length quickdraw to
use on routes that have bulges or roofs
on them, just to help the rope run more
smoothly – hmm, maybe I am a gear freak
but just haven’t admitted it to myself.
Being on the small side of the population,
I have always carried a minimal rack.
Partly because my head could not handle
not having every conceivable piece of gear
known to humankind on my harness. If I
only had a couple of sets of nuts, then there
wasn’t too much to think about and I could
get on with the climbing but fundamentally
I needed to save weight. I’d look at some
guys’ racks and just think I’d barely be able
to walk, let alone gracefully ascend a route
with that hulk of metalwork attached to my
harness!
Now I have a lightweight DMM rack, my
options have widened; it has been an eye
opener for me in terms of what I can now
take on a route. In September, I went to
Gogarth. Not being overly familiar with
the rock and style of protection available,
Little Lat of the Big Men, E5 6a.
Photograph © Tim Glasby
I was keen to make sure I had the options
covered. So I racked up ready for ‘The Cow’
[a route I’d never done before and didn’t
know anything about] and looked down at
my harness, I was laden with gear but felt
surprisingly unburdened.
It was a great feeling to have an awesome
selection of nuts and cams on my harness
but also plenty of quickdraws for the crazy
amounts of gear I was about to put in
[I hoped]! Climbing longer routes of course
requires more gear and in the past I would
often run out of quickdraws etc. but now
with a DMM rack I can just take as much as
I want. I still try not to go overboard but the
option is there.
Finally, if I was pushed to say what my
favourite piece of DMM gear was, it would
be a toss up between the ‘I.M.P.s’ and the
‘Phantom’ quickdraw. But being a big fan of
trad limestone, the I.M.P.s would probably
pip the Phantoms into first place. They
have saved my bacon a few times and I
would feel naked without a rack of them on
my harness.
Climbing feature
Climbing feature
6
What
climbing
means
to me
7
FOR
SHOWN
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SIZE
Carabiners
and Quickdraws
NEW
2010
Alpha Trad
BLT
8
9
Carabiners don’t always have to be specific
to any one discipline, but it makes sense to
create a product that is right for the job.
Alpha Trad Quickdraws
TRAD
DMM’s range of biners and quickdraws have become the first
choice for Trad climbing. In general weight tends to be a more
important consideration in Trad climbing simply because you
are carrying more gear. Our carabiners are therefore super light
without compromising functionality or strength. Minimum gate
open strengths of 9 kN are uniform in our range, and to ensure
usability, we have refrained from going too small in size.
All of the Trad range have wire gates and the most technical have
clean noses too. Remember DMM produced the first ever clean
nose wire gate biner in the world several years ago. We have
built on the success of the original Wirelock with the Shield, and
now, two new biners, the Alpha Trad and Alpha Light. These two
additions mean we have a superlative range of wire gate biners to
suit every situation and pocket.
Spectre 2 and the original Phantom are regular notched nose
wire gates with the Alpha Trad and Alpha Light their clean nosed
counterparts.
SPORT
Again we have built quickly on the success of the last addition
to the range, the Shadow, by developing a sports specific set-up.
Understanding the demands and needs of this discipline of
climbing, we have recognised that the quickdraw has to do two
things, clipping the bolt with the top biner and then clipping the
rope into the bottom biner. So two biners and two completely
different functions, which naturally means two different designs.
That is the route we have taken. The Alpha Sport is therefore our
top end Sports draw, designed to make clipping both bolt and
rope easy, quick and secure. The webbing we have used is wider
than before to make it easier to grab the draw when stripping a
route or when working it. The Shadow remains a classic of its
time, I Beam and clean nosed, together with the Aero it offers an
alternative to the top end Alpha Sport for sport climbing or simply
as alternatives for those who still prefer solid gate biners.
SHOWN
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SIZE
3 DYNEEMA LENGTHS AVAILABLE
25 cm
Alpha Trad
18 cm
A full size, clean nose wire gate which is light,
strong and beautiful to handle. The design brief
for all the Alpha range was very specific and
exacting, but as usual our design team has
come up trumps.
12 cm
BENEFITS
• Strong I Beam construction
• Clean nose
• Grooves in back make for more secure
handling
• Generous rope radius
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
ALPHA TRAD
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
34 g
27 mm
A508
ALPHA TRAD BLT
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
34 g
27 mm
A508BLT
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
12 cm [11 mm Dyneema]
77 g
A508-12
ALPHA TRAD QUICKDRAW
80 g
A508-18
82 g
A508-25
10mm
m 2
2010
FOR
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
NEW
Phantom Colourpack
5 DIFFERENT COLOURS AVAILABLE
Alpha Light
BLT
11
SHOWN
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SIZE
10
Phantom
Alpha Light Quickdraws
SHOWN
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SIZE
25 cm
Alpha Light
18 cm
To improve on the Phantom was always going
to be a huge task, but we believe we have done
just that. So take all the benefits of the original
Phantom and then add a clean nose and you
really have moved the game on.
Phantom Quickdraws
The Phantom was a classic example of
combining strength, lightness and functionality,
and as such this biner stood head and shoulders
above its competitors. Lucy Creamer described
them as “awesome” for onsighting and clearly
loved the weight saving as she could carry more
gear. Available singularly, as quickdraws, or in
5 different colours to colour code your cams,
the Phantom is a very versatile lightweight biner.
25 cm
18 cm
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
12 cm
I Beam construction for strength/lightness
Wire gate less likely to freeze up in winter
Hot Forged
Rope groove to locate rope correctly
12 cm
BENEFITS
• Clean nose
• Grooves in back for more secure
handling
• Super light
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
ALPHA LIGHT
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
28 g
25 mm
A518
PHANTOM
23 kN
9 kN
7 kN
26 g
21 mm
A318
ALPHA LIGHT BLT
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
28 g
25 mm
A518BLT
PRODUCT
PRODUCT
ALPHA LIGHT QUICKDRAW
10mm
m 2
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
PHANTOM QUICKDRAW
61 g
A318-12
65 g
A518-12
PHANTOM QUICKDRAW
64 g
A318-18
PHANTOM QUICKDRAW
66 g
A318-25
PHANTOM COLOURPACK
N/A
127.5 g
A318-P5
68 g
A518-18
71 g
A518-25
10mm
m 2
Spectre 2 / Shadow
Quickdraws
NEW
2010
FOR
Alpha Sport Quickdraws
[COMBINATION OF ALPHA PRO & ALPHA CLIP]
3 NYLON LENGTHS AVAILABLE
12 cm
Spectre 2 Quickdraws
18 cm
12
12 cm
18 cm
13
25 cm
SHOWN
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SHOWN
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Spectre 2
Colourpack
5 COLOURS AVAILABLE
Alpha Clip
The Spectre 2 has become an immediate
success in the short time it has been on the
market. It has appealed to those looking for a
classic all round wire gate biner and, since it is a
little larger than the Phantom, it is also a great
choice as a winter biner too. Still very light at
only 32 g, its slender looks belie its super strong
9 kN Gate Open strength.
Just as the Pro version makes clipping the bolt
easy, the Alpha Clip ensures that you won’t
waste any time clipping the rope either.
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
Spectre 2
Alpha Pro
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
•
Lightweight I Beam construction back
Safer, deeper basket
Easy to handle back shape
Generous 8.5 mm rope radius
Modified nose profile to protect gate
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
32 g
27 mm
A358
–
–
–
160 g
–
A358-P5
SPECTRE 2
SPECTRE 2 COLOURPACK
PRODUCT
SPECTRE 2 QUICKDRAW
10mm
m 2
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
73 g
A358-12
SPECTRE 2 QUICKDRAW
76 g
A358-18
SPECTRE 2 QUICKDRAW
80 g
A358-25
SPECTRE 2 / SHADOW QUICKDRAW
86 g
DA358-306-12
SPECTRE 2 / SHADOW QUICKDRAW
89 g
DA358-306-18
This set up is very sophisticated. The Alpha Pro
is designed to make clipping the bolt wire, peg
etc. as secure, quick and easy as possible.
It is strong, easy to handle and light. As with
the other Alpha biners it has moved the I Beam
design forward another level, and will be the
template for future carabiner design.
A beautifully Hot Forged gate blends perfectly
with the biner back to make clipping a dream.
The depth of the basket is deeper offering
greater security once clipped. A variable width
26 mm nylon draw is the perfect partner for
these biners, easy to grab, robust and tapered
down to 16 mm where it sits securely on the
biner, ensuring correct loading of the set up.
PRODUCT
Strong I Beam construction
Clean nose
Correct angle of nose for easy clipping
Grooves in back for more secure handling
Clean nose
Hot Forged bent gate to aid clipping
Deep secure rope basket
Generous rope radius
Grooves in back for more secure handling
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
ALPHA PRO
24 kN
9 kN
8 kN
44 g
22 mm
A521
ALPHA CLIP
24 kN
9 kN
8 kN
45 g
25 mm
A526
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
12 cm [Variable width Nylon]
104 g
A256-12
ALPHA SPORT QUICKDRAW
109 g
A256-18
114 g
A256-25
10mm
m 2
•
•
•
•
•
•
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
BENEFITS
18 cm
12 cm
18 cm
25 cm
15
Shadow
Aero Bent Gate
BENEFITS
BENEFITS
• Clean nose
• Traditional straight/bent gates
• Shrouded nose
• Deep gate bend for easy rope clipping
• Rope groove to help direct any loads
against the spine
Rocio raps in to the walls of Fairhead.
Photograph © Owen Samuel
The Shadow has quickly established itself as a
classic Sports Climbing carabiner, being strong
and robust as well as light and easy to handle.
Up until the arrival of our new Alpha range this
was Gaz Parry’s biner of choice, but that may well
now change. Available on Dyneema or Nylon to
suit your needs this is our workhorse of the range.
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
Aero Straight Gate
Shadow / Spectre 2
Quickdraws
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
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SIZE
SHOWN
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SIZE
14
Shadow Quickdraws
Shadow Secure
The Shadow Secure is now tantalisingly close
although we have reluctantly refused to launch
it until we have completed vigorous testing on
its clever locking mechanism. However we are
now happy with the way it performs and will
be launching it in spring 2011. Ideal for those
situations where you want more security but
don’t want to be penalised on weight.
18 cm
12 cm
BENEFITS
Aero Quickdraws
BENEFITS
• I Beam construction for strength and
lightness
• Clean nose closure for anti snag clipping/
unclipping
• Hot Forged
• Traditional straight/bent gates
• CNC’d thumb recess on gate for easier
operation
BENEFITS
• Lightweight with extra security
on crucial runners
• Single handed operation
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
24 kN
10 kN
9 kN
43 g
20 mm
A301
SHADOW STRAIGHT GATE
• Excellent entry level quickdraw
Shadow
Bent
Gate
10mm
m 2
10mm
m 2
SHADOW BENT GATE
24 kN
10 kN
9 kN
43 g
25 mm
A306
SHADOW SECURE
24 kN
10 kN
9 kN
TBC
20 mm
A308
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CAT. No.
SHADOW QUICKDRAW
96 g
A306-12
SHADOW QUICKDRAW
99 g
A306-18
SHADOW / SPECTRE 2 QUICKDRAW
85 g
A301-358-12
SHADOW / SPECTRE 2 QUICKDRAW
88 g
A301-358-18
Locking carabiners
The Revolver is now well established as part of a comprehensive Trad leading rack. It is a
unique piece of kit which offers very real benefits to the climber. So what does it do? In simple
terms the carabiner uses rolling friction rather than the sliding friction of the rope over the
bar typified by a standard carabiner. In this case the rope rolls over the pulley wheel which
means much less friction is created. Less friction means less force holding the climber
back, which makes upward progress a lot easier.
Revolver
Clean nose
I Beam back
Three locking options
Ideal for Rescue/Hauling
QUICKLOCK OPTION
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
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SIZE
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Phantom
Screwgate
10mm
m 2
Locking
Revolver
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
17
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
16
Shadow Screwgate
BENEFITS
BENEFITS
• Lightest keylock screwgate
carabiner in the world
• Massive push-in strength
•
•
•
•
Zodiac Screwgate
BENEFITS
Clean nose locker
Available in three locking options
Lightweight perfection!
QUICKLOCK OPTION
•
•
•
•
LOCKSAFE OPTION
Clean nose
Ultra strong
Brilliant all round rigging carabiner
Captive bar option available
QUICKLOCK OPTION
LOCKSAFE OPTION
LOCKSAFE OPTION
BENEFITS
• Shrouded nose
• Wire gate to save weight
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
STRENGTH STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED] [GATE OPEN] [MINOR AXIS]
SIDE LOAD
TEST
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
PHANTOM SCREWGATE
4 kN
7 kN
23 kN
5 kN
7 kN
24 kN
WEIGHT
9 kN
24 kN
9 kN
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
SHADOW SCREWGATE
SHADOW QUICKLOCK
4 kN
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
9 kN
9 kN
41.5 g
16 mm
A312
9 kN
7 kN
51 g
18 mm
A302
7 kN
56 g
17 mm
A303
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
51 g
24 mm
A238
SHADOW LOCKSAFE
4 kN
9 kN
24 kN
9 kN
7 kN
58 g
17 mm
A307
REVOLVER SCREWGATE 24 kN
8 kN
8 kN
64 g
16 mm
A272
ZODIAC SCREWGATE
6 kN
11 kN
32 kN
12 kN
12 kN
78 g
18 mm
A822
REVOLVER
Photograph © Judith Spancken
GATE FACE
TEST
PRODUCT
REVOLVER QUICKLOCK 24 kN
8 kN
8 kN
68 g
15 mm
A273
ZODIAC QUICKLOCK
5 kN
9 kN
32 kN
12 kN
12 kN
82 g
18 mm
A823
REVOLVER LOCKSAFE
8 kN
8 kN
70 g
15 mm
A277
ZODIAC LOCKSAFE
5 kN
9 kN
32 kN
12 kN
12 kN
84 g
18 mm
A827
24 kN
10 m
mm2
Locking Carabiners
•
•
•
•
•
Aero HMS
Screwgate
Smaller lightweight belay carabiner
Now with a clean nose profile
Good gate opening
Fits snugly on most harness belay loops
Very useful as a general climbing rigging
carabiner
• Large clean nose HMS belay carabiner
• Accommodates multiple knots
• I Beam back construction to save weight
[almost 25% reduction]
BENEFITS
• Good value belay biner
• Keylock nose
• Generous rope radius
QUICKLOCK OPTION
• Classic entry level locker
• Clean nose
• Compact size
PRODUCT
GATE FACE AND SIDE LOAD TESTING
DMM products are tested to destruction using the techniques described in EN362 2004.
GATE FACE
TEST
Ultra D Screwgate
BENEFITS
BENEFITS
• I Beam construction with 3 locking versions
• Ideal biner with pulleys
• Shrouded nose
• I Beam construction to save weight
QUICKLOCK OPTION
LOCKSAFE OPTION
QUICKLOCK OPTION
LOCKSAFE OPTION
LOCKSAFE OPTION
GATE FACE
TEST
SIDE LOAD
TEST
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
BIG BOA HMS SCREWGATE
7 kN
11 kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
83 g
24 mm
A892
BIG BOA HMS QUICKLOCK
4 kN
10 kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
86 g
25 mm
A893
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
BIG BOA HMS LOCKSAFE
4 kN
10 kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
86 g
23 mm
A897
ULTRA O SCREWGATE
5 kN
9 kN
25 kN
7 kN
12 kN
65 g
22 mm
A322
20 mm
A262
ULTRA O QUICKLOCK
5 kN
12 kN
25 kN
7 kN
12 kN
72 g
22 mm
A323
19 mm
A362
ULTRA O LOCKSAFE
5 kN
12 kN
25 kN
7 kN
12 kN
73 g
22 mm
A327
19 mm
A363
ULTRA D SCREWGATE
–
–
28 kN
8 kN
8 kN
69 g
TBC
A332
ULTRA D QUICKLOCK
–
–
TBC
TBC
TBC
TBC
TBC
A333
ULTRA D LOCKSAFE
–
–
TBC
TBC
TBC
TBC
TBC
A337
SIDE LOAD
TEST
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
SENTINEL HMS SCREWGATE 6 kN
8 kN
24 kN
8 kN
10 kN
54 g
AERO HMS SCREWGATE
6 kN
8 kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
85 g
AERO HMS QUICKLOCK
6 kN
8kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
89 g
AERO HMS LOCKSAFE
6 kN
8 kN
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
91 g
19 mm
A367
AERO OFFSET D SCREWGATE
6 kN
8 kN
25 kN
9 kN
9 kN
83 g
17 mm
A372
PRODUCT
Ultra O Screwgate
BENEFITS
Aero Offset D
Screwgate
BENEFITS
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
BENEFITS
Big Boa HMS
Screwgate
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
Sentinel HMS
Screwgate
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
19
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
Locking Carabiners
18
10mm
m 2
10 m
mm2
The latest addition to this product category is the Chicane, which joins
the well established Bug and Bugette. The Bug is an ideal partner to
larger diameter ropes as its generously radiused rope slots work well
with ropes from 9 to 11 mm. The Bugette on the other hand should be
partnered with ropes from 7.5 mm to 9 mm to get greatest benefits.
The new Chicane however will cover a wider range of ropes than either
of the above with the obvious benefit that you have one device to cover
all diameters of ropes so whether you are using skinny 8 mm half ropes
or burly 10.5 mm sports ropes, you can use the same device.
We have three abseil devices, the standard Figure 8, the Cardiac
Arrestor and the Anka. All are popular with groups and activity centres.
Hot Forged, fully heat treated and vibrated in ceramic chips until they
are silky smooth, they are also anodised to help prevent corrosion.
All of the above can be used with both versions of our Belay Master
carabiner whose plastic clip is designed to prevent crossloading.
1
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
21
2
This carabiner features the original clip, first
introduced many years ago, and so offers an
alternative to version 3 with its more sophisticated
hinged clip. Still hugely popular in wall and centre
scenarios where the stowage of the plastic clip
when climbing is less of an issue, this biner offers
greater security by preventing crossloading.
Building on the last two versions of this
ingenious device, we have further refined the
design to address the one major criticism which
had been raised. Climbers have found that when
stowed on the harness the clip is more prone
to snagging when you are climbing, unless of
course you screw the thimble up and relocate
the clip, which in reality is a nuisance.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
The latest version features a hinged clip which
can fold back on itself quickly and easily, locating
securely and snugly and reducing the likelihood of
it snagging or catching on other gear or rock etc.
The carabiner itself is an improvement on
the previous version too. The rope radius are
generous and forgiving to treat your ropes gently.
TM
The nose is our patented Taper Lock system
to offer greater strength, and the inside profile
of this section is blended beautifully to allow for
smooth rope handling. The forging on the spine
of the biner features blended sections either side
of the clip recess to again reduce the likelihood
of snagging and offer greater security.
I Beam back construction
Clean nose
Plastic clip prevents crossloading
Taper Lock TM Patent Pending nose for
greater gate strength in every direction
PRODUCT
Chicane
BENEFITS
NEW
Specialist belay carabiner
Generous rope radius
TM
Taper Lock nose
New hinged clip for snag-free stowage
FOR
2010
10mm
m 2
The name of this new belay device says it all. To be able
to cope with a wide range of diameter ropes the internal
profile of the Chicane works in two dimensions, a feature
which no other belay device of this type can boast.
Smooth and easy paying out, and taking in, but absolutely
rock solid holding power over a range of ropes [7.5 mm to
11 mm] makes this a very unique piece of equipment.
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
PATENTED
SHOWN
ACTUAL
SIZE
Belay Master 2
Belay Master 3
•
•
•
•
20
Abseil
devices
10 m
mm2
Bug
Bugette
BENEFITS
BENEFITS
• Hot Forged and fully Heat
Treated
• Good with larger ropes
• Anodised for corrosion
resistance
• Super light
• Ideal with skinny ropes
[8 mm – 9.5 mm]
• Excellent paying out/taking in
• Great holding power
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
STRENGTH
[MINOR AXIS]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CAT.
NO.
BELAY MASTER 3 SCREWGATE
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
118 g
22 g
A472
BELAY MASTER 3 QUICKLOCK
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
122 g
22 g
A473
BELAY MASTER 3 LOCKSAFE
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
124 g
22 g
A477
BELAY MASTER 2
25 kN
8 kN
10 kN
92 g
18.5 mm
A862
BELAY MASTER CLIP
–
–
–
–
–
A860-02
TBC
TBC
TBC
53 g
TBC
A1160
BUG
–
–
–
83 g
–
A1180
BUGETTE
–
–
–
27 g
–
A1195
ANKA
–
–
–
169 g
–
A1100
CHICANE
CARDIAC ARRESTER
–
–
–
133 g
–
A1110
FIGURE 8
–
–
–
116 g
–
A1150
3
1. Figure 8
•
•
•
•
The classic abseil device
Hot Forged
Fully Heat Treated
Anodised for corrosion
resistance
2. Cardiac Arrester
• A sophisticated Figure 8
• Allows different friction
options
• Hot Forged
• Anodised for corrosion
resistance
3. Anka
• Larger mass offers greater
heat dissipation
• Twisted design orientates
device better
• Good for long /multiple abseils
• Ideal group/centre usage
Wallnuts
Passive protection
Wires are wires, right? Simple metal wedges
which slot into cracks? Wrong! There has been
a great deal of time and effort spent to ensure
that the DMM Wallnuts are your best choice
when it comes to passive crack protection.
Take the standard Wallnuts range size one to
eleven. The smaller sizes are now machined
from 7075 round bar to make production more
efficient. This continues to give the sculpted
profile and strength. However with the bigger
sizes, to reduce the weight we have gone for
another form of manufacture, Extrusion.
SIZE 11
This allows us to include all the same features
as their smaller counterparts but with
considerable weight advantages. Anodised for
easy recognition and selection, they are a core
element of everybody’s rack.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Colour coded for quick selection
Lighter extruded sizes 7-11
Colour compatibility with other brands
Pack sizes 1-11, 1-6 and 7-11
SIZE 10
22
Passive protection
Passive protection
11 SIZES AVAILABLE
23
Every product group without exception
has gradually expanded over the years
and this includes passive protection.
SIZE 9
From the beautifully crafted yet strong I.M.Ps and Brass
Offsets, right up to the unique Torque Nuts, we have every
base covered whatever your choice of climb.
SIZE 8
SIZE 7
SIZE 6
SIZE 5
SIZE 4
SIZE 3
SIZE 2
10 m
mm2
SIZE 1
Torque Nuts
Torque Nuts are DMM’s solution to large
passive protection. As the name suggests,
these cunningly sized and shaped nuts work
well in standard placements but also have an
extremely efficient camming system. Just four
sizes cover a very large size range. The double
Dyneema sling is protected on the top by a large
countersunk groove, and works in a similar
fashion to the slings on our cams. This unique
refinement makes racking the units much easier,
and allows you to climb less encumbered.
24
Passive protection
Passive protection
4 SIZES AVAILABLE
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
4 sizes cover a large range
Double Dyneema sling
Efficient camming action
Anodised for recognition and corrosion protection
Alloy Offsets
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Fits where nothing else will
Wire inset into top of nut
Lightening holes
Full wire radius for extra strength
25
Single
Dyneema set-up
Brass Offsets
5 SIZES AVAILABLE
From the moment we reintroduced this classic nut last year we have
been flat out keeping up with demand. Once you’ve used them for the first
time you won’t consider climbing without them. These nuts are based on
the famed HB Alloy Offsets and were produced using modified versions
of the original HB dies. In typical DMM fashion we have brought them into
the 21st century with colour coded sizing, recessed wires and lightening
holes in the largest two sizes.
Double
Dyneema set-up
Peenuts
Brass I.M.Ps
Micro Wallnuts
5 SIZES AVAILABLE
5 SIZES AVAILABLE
4 SIZES AVAILABLE
DMM Peenuts offer an excellent alternative when
placements are tricky. Their tapered profile allows them
to fit where a regular wire won’t seat correctly, and often
offer the only safe placement you can get. They are also
anodised to match their regular counterparts making
them easy and quick to select.
7 SIZES AVAILABLE
To complete the offset range, we are producing the seven sizes of the
original, and very popular HB Brass Offset Nuts. A very useful refinement
is the addition of an aluminium swage, or keeper which holds the wires
parallel but allows one wire to slide. The result means that the nut is
loaded more evenly on both sides making the placement more secure.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Silver soldered on stainless wire
7 sizes
Multi-placement options
Investment cast from silicon bronze
Immaculate Marginal Protection or I.M.Ps are
the last addition to our passive protection range.
Machined from silicon bronze on a nine axis
CNC Lathe, these little units come in five sizes.
The wires benefit from the same system as the
Brass Offsets with the aluminium swage/keeper
helping to load the unit evenly.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
5 sizes
Hot Forged
Offset/tapered profile
Colour coded for easy recognition
BENEFITS
• 5 sizes machined from silicon bronze
• Silver soldered for strength
• Aluminium swage aids even loading
Micro Wallnuts are neither forged nor made
from extrusion. Again this is an example of
our knowledge of manufacturing techniques,
where we can choose the best suited and
most cost effective method. These little wires
are in fact machined. We do this so that the
wire is given a full radius to sit on, and is also
protected by being inside the nut itself. As
a result the whole unit is stronger, easier to
place in shallow placements and the wire is
less likely to be abraded.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
4 sizes
CNC machined
Full wire radius for extra strength
Nut extraction
Passive protection
Handle removed
26
27
Dinorwig Slate Quarries, Llanberis.
Photograph © Ray Wood
PRODUCT
Nutter
A very light, twin pronged nut key designed to
remove both stuck wires and cams that have
walked into cracks too far.
The double hooks can be engaged around the
trigger bar to release stuck cams which can’t be
reached or released by hand.
Top Tip:
Tie a small loop of 3 mm / 4 mm accessory cord
through the hole near the hooks and use this
to attach the nutter to your racking biner. This
stops the hooks constantly tangling with your
gear. This also reduces the chances of the blade
embedding itself in flesh and bone in the event
of a fall.
Rocio on Voyage of Faith,
E3 5c, Mingulay.
Photograph © Owen Samuel
Nutbuster
WEIGHT
STRENGTH
COLOUR
CATALOGUE NO.
PRODUCT
WEIGHT
STRENGTH
COLOUR
CATALOGUE NO.
WALLNUT SIZE 1
15 g
7 kN/4 kN
PINK
A1611A
MICRO WALLNUT SIZE 00
6g
2 kN
GREY
A1600A
WALLNUT SIZE 2
26 g
9 kN
GREEN
A1612A
MICRO WALLNUT SIZE 0
6g
2 kN
RED
A1610A
WALLNUT SIZE 3
28 g
11 kN
SILVER
A1613A
MICRO WALLNUT SIZE 0.5
9g
3 kN/4 kN
BLUE
A1658A
WALLNUT SIZE 4
30 g
12 kN
GOLD
A1614A
MICRO WALLNUT SIZE 0.75
10 g
3 kN/4 kN
GOLD
A1659A
WALLNUT SIZE 5
32 g
12 kN
BLUE
A1615A
MICRO WALLNUT SET No. 00-0.75 31 g
WALLNUT SIZE 6
39 g
12 kN
RED
A1616A
BRASS I.M.P. SIZE 1
–
–
A1600/59A
4g
4 kN
BLUE
A1721
WALLNUT SIZE 7
40 g
12 kN
GREY
A1617A
BRASS I.M.P. SIZE 2
8g
5 kN
RED
A1722
The Nutbuster is our premium nut tool and laser
cut in Sheffield from the finest stainless steel
and then given a taper so that it can access
narrow placements, but is still stiff enough
to dislodge nuts that are welded in – simply
compare the blade to anything else on the
market and you will see the difference.
WALLNUT SIZE 8
45 g
12 kN
TURQUOISE
A1618A
BRASS I.M.P. SIZE 3
10 g
5 kN
SILVER
A1723
WALLNUT SIZE 9
50 g
12 kN
GOLD
A1619A
BRASS I.M.P. SIZE 4
13 g
7 kN
PURPLE
A1724
WALLNUT SIZE 10
56 g
12 kN
SILVER
A1620A
BRASS I.M.P. SIZE 5
16 g
7 kN
GREEN
A1725
WALLNUT SIZE 11
68 g
12 kN
GREEN
A1621A
TORQUE NUT SIZE 1
54 g
14 kN
GREEN
A1741
The round hole in front of the rubber handle both
reduces weight and helps accuracy getting nuts
out faster without damaging their wires.
The rubber handle makes the Nutbuster very
easy to handle and allows wires to be hit hard
without the blade digging into your hand. The
rubber handle can be removed if you want to
really hit the blade hard with a stone.
The Nutbuster can be slung directly on a
carabiner, but mountain rescue teams get fed
up of digging nut keys out of bodies so it is
always best to sling any nut key on a short piece
of climbing cord. The danger of impalement in a
fall is also why we did not incorporate a gate into
the Nutbuster – plus the mini, integral gates are
a pain to use with cold fingers or with gloves.
WALLNUT SET No. 1-6
168 g
–
–
A1611/16A
TORQUE NUT SIZE 2
70 g
14 kN
RED
A1742
WALLNUT SET No. 7-11
257 g
–
–
A1617/21A
TORQUE NUT SIZE 3
104 g
14 kN
GOLD
A1743
WALLNUT SET No. 1-11
425 g
–
–
A1611A/21A
TORQUE NUT SIZE 4
146 g
14 kN
BLUE
A1744
ALLOY OFFSETS SIZE 7
27 g
12 kN
GOLD
A1817A
PEENUT SIZE 1
9g
4 kN
RED
A1511A
30 g
12 kN
BLUE
A1818A
PEENUT SIZE 2
10 g
5 kN
GREY
A1512A
37 g
12 kN
RED
A1819A
PEENUT SIZE 3
10 g
5 kN
PURPLE
A1513A
45 g
12 kN
GREY
A1820A
PEENUT SIZE 4
16 g
8 kN
GREEN
A1514A
56 g
12 kN
LIGHT BLUE
A1821A
PEENUT SIZE 5
18 g
8 kN
SILVER
A1515A
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 0
4g
2 kN
GOLD
A1700
PEENUT SET No. 1-5
63 g
–
–
A1511/15A
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 1
7g
4 kN
BLUE
A1701
NUTTER
40 g
–
–
C1250
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 2
9g
5 kN
RED
A1702
NUTBUSTER
57 g
–
–
C1251
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 3
10 g
5 kN
SILVER
A1703
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 4
14 g
7 kN
PURPLE
A1704
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 5
17 g
7 kN
GREEN
A1705
BRASS OFFSET SIZE 6
24 g
10 kN
SILVER
A1706
Behind the scenes of the Dragon Cam project
The Dragon Cams have been one of the biggest development projects we have undertaken in the
history of the company. As such we felt that it would be appropriate to highlight the story of
how these devices came to market. It is a great demonstration of our commitment to product
development, and an insight into the internal workings of the company and some of the main
players in the development process.
Photographs by Ray Wood.
28
Fred Hall
Elliot Tanner
Cams are a hugely important
part of the Trad climber’s
rack and with the advent of
our latest design, we can now
offer a variety of options.
From the narrower 3 CUs
through the ever popular
and versatile 4 CUs, up to the
new dual axle Dragons.
“We are very, very
proud that these
cams are made in
Wales. By us!”
Fred Hall
Fortunately for Fred and
DMM we have been lucky
enough to take on another
full time designer in the
form of Elliot Tanner. Within
a short space of time Elliot
found himself Chief Design
Engineer for the Dragons
which must have been a
daunting task due to the
importance and costs of the
project. The project was a
very complicated one indeed
as cams are complicated
mechanisms. And with six
sizes in the range, you can
be confronted with six sets
of problems!
So whether you’re lacing an Indian Creek
splitter, searching for a placement in a
limestone pocket, or climbing a Gritstone
classic, we’ve got the cam for you. All three
models are built to our exacting standards
and benefit from the extendable Dyneema
sling which allows you to carry fewer
quickdraws, saving on weight and bulk on
your harness.
“Are you winning?”
This is the customary greeting of Fred who is in overall charge of all product
development. Fred Hall, our Technical Director is very well known in this
market and sits on the CEN Committee TC136 Working Group 5, and is a
member of the UIAA Safety Commission. He has been the brains and driving
force behind our development program for many years. The Dragon project
was just one of many design projects running simultaneously so it is easy to
see why Fred is a hard man to track down, but this sums up his thoughts on
the project as follows:
“The core problem faced by the engineering team was
developing a compromise between a universally high
strength product range with minimum weight, and
trying to design a desirable and beautiful product
with an extendable sling. The Dragon Cam project
has given us many technical problems to overcome
and has challenged us immensely. That said, the final
result is six camming units that we firmly believe
offer real advantages to the climber.”
Elliot Tanner
The Dragon Cam project
Active protection
Active
protection
Enter the Dragon
29
Mick Cassidy
30
“It’s not just a question of completing the tooling
in the toolroom, we also need to trial every tool
to make sure it’s working properly, then produce
the units to the correct specifications. Prototyping
is one matter, but making sure that the tooling
is up to the job for full blown production runs is
a completely different ball game and fitting in
trialling of tools around the everyday production
of other products requires a lot of planning and
co-operation. Quite often you have very small
windows of opportunity and need to take them
when you can.”
Dennis Lea
Aled Williams
It’s one thing designing a product but you also need to make it, and for that
you need to design and make the tools required – in itself a very complex
and important task. For the last four years Mick Cassidy has been working
for DMM in Llanberis making, in the main, the forging tools and prototypes
for our new products. Working to a very tight schedule, Mick regularly
burns the midnight oil in the Toolroom and sometimes we wonder if he
ever sleeps .
“Projects like this sound simple but actually, for
tool making purposes, it’s six projects in one! As
we have to produce tooling for each size of unit,
that can also mean six sets of problems!’
Mick Cassidy
Kevin Edwards
Dylan Thomas
Enter the Dragon continued
As one of DMM’s oldest
Dennis Lea
or should we say most
mature and long
serving employees,
Dennis Lea has worked
closely with Mick
making the Tooling
required to produce
the forged components
of the Dragons. With a
wealth of experience in
this area Dennis’ work
is vital, and he bridges
the gap between
Design and Toolroom,
and Production where
another long standing
Employee Aled
Williams has had to
work closely
with Dennis in trialling the forging tooling and fine tuning the process to
make sure production will run smoothly.
31
“The actual assembly part of the job is the last link
in the chain, and this is where all the various parts
need to come together and match up correctly. Not
only that but we need to devise assembly procedures
so as to be able to put these complicated devices
together quickly but accurately. The pressure is
very much on to get them to the warehouse as soon
as possible otherwise we have some very unhappy
sales staff! However as usual it is better to spend a
little longer and ensure the product is right and the
quality up to scratch as this is paramount to us.”
Dylan Thomas
The Hot Forged cams and thumb grips both need to have some machining
operations performed on them and this is where Kevin Edwards and his
section take over. As we have mentioned six sizes means six sets of forging
tooling, and this also means six sets of machining tooling and associated
programming. Setting the jobs up to be as efficient as possible is a real
challenge, but there are real opportunities here to make the job very efficient.
When all the parts are made, the task of assembling them begins, and again
this can throw up many unforeseen problems, and again with six different
sizes, the problems can be multiplied! Dylan Thomas has worked in a variety
of roles within DMM, but is now in charge of our Cam Assembly department
[bit of a misnomer there actually as they assemble much more than cams]
who alongside his team have the task of assembling these new Dragons.
With the forward orders increasing daily, demand for the Dragons was always
going to put pressure on assembly so an efficient and well planned production
route was paramount in getting the product to market. As with all new
products, there were teething problems which had to be overcome along the
way however with our previous experience in producing camming units, not
just for DMM but also for Wild Country we were as well equipped as possible
for the task. Dylan as well as the rest of the team is well aware of the fact that
the products we produce can literally be lifesavers, so quality and reliability
could never ever be compromised to meet deadlines.
Obviously this is an abridged version of the story, and there are many other
factors involved, but hopefully this gives you an insight into the complexity of
designing prototyping testing and producing a new product.
4CU Cams
Cams
“The DMM 4CU range’s light weight is a noticeable
advantage when packing in or climbing with a full rack.
The way we see it, an average 20% weight saving means
that the climber can ‘sew up cracks’ with a much lighter
rack. Another way of looking at it is that climbers can
place 20% more cams, feel much more secure, and
still come out even on the weight. Less weight with
more protection? Who wouldn’t love that? Each cam is
rated to 14 kN in the active, working position with the
quick release sling doubled, and 12 kN with sling fully
extended. The passive strength of the cams, resting on
their stops is 10 kN.”
Dragon Cams
32
Lisa Gnade, Excalibur USA
6 SIZES AVAILABLE
BENEFITS
It has only been a matter of time before we brought to market a single
stem camming device to compliment the existing 4 CU range, and
we have been asked many times over the years for one! After all this
waiting we are certain we won’t disappoint with the introduction of the
Dragons. Even the name conjures up images of strength and purpose.
DMM Dragons have been designed without compromise to produce a
blend of strength, lightness and functionality.
•
•
•
•
•
Extendable Dyneema sling
Light and strong
Cam stops for 10 kN in umbrella position
Colour coded Phantoms or Spectres available
Original 13.75° cam angle
Single stem, dual axle, Hot Forged cams, extendable Dyneema
sling, and a 13.75° cam angle are all the fundamentals around which
Dragons are designed.
We use six sizes to cover a range from 20 mm to 114 mm and have
steadfastly remained faithful to Ray Jardine’s cam angle calculation,
which we firmly believe offers the best combination of holding power
and expansion range. The stem is 5.5 mm stainless cable with a free
floating nylon sleeve for protection. This arrangement means that the
units are as flexible as possible in every orientation. The thumb grip is
beautifully sculptured so as to offer maximum grip and security.
Hot Forged from 7075 Aluminium alloy, the grip also allows the
extendable 8 mm dyneema sling to run freely and load correctly.
TM
The trigger bar is made Zytel and is very positive in use with sufficient
grip for the sweatiest of fingers.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Hot Forged cams
Twin axle for smooth action
Extendable Dyneema extendable sling
Moulded ergonomic trigger bar
Replaceable trigger wire system
Anodised cams for corrosion prevention
3CU Cams
6 SIZES AVAILABLE
The DMM 3CU’s use three cam lobes rather than 4. They
are built to the same high standards as our 4CU’s and
even use the same sizing and colour coding system.
Dragon Cams Range
They are very stable, twin stemmed devices with a centre
pull trigger that works well even with gloved hands.
The key advantage in having only 3 cam lobes is that
the units have a narrower head width and hence fit into
constricted placements and pockets where wider units
will not go.
All of our cams feature an extendable sling that allows
you to save on quickdraws and keep rope drag to a
minimum. The longer sling also helps minimise the
chances of the rope moving or walking the cam away
from its optimum position. Colour coded Spectres and
Phantoms are available for all of our cams so that they
can be easily recognised on your harness.
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
Extendable Dyneema sling
Stable and twin stemmed
Narrower head width for constricted placements
Light and strong
Cams
11 SIZES AVAILABLE
33
RANGE
RaXXe[\QZ
Active protection
RaXXeOX[_QP
Cam range
diagram
34
RANGE
RaXXeOX[_QP
RaXXe[\QZ
PRODUCT
COLOUR
RANGE
WEIGHT
STRENGTH
PASSIVE
STRENGTH
CATALOGUE
NO.
DRAGON SIZE 1
PURPLE
20-33 mm
97 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7051A
DRAGON SIZE 2
GREEN
24-41 mm
106 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7052A
DRAGON SIZE 3
RED
29-50 mm
119 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7053A
DRAGON SIZE 4
GOLD
38-64 mm
148 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7054A
DRAGON SIZE 5
BLUE
50-85 mm
195 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7055A
DRAGON SIZE 6
SILVER
68-114 mm
276 g
14 kN
14 kN
A7056A
4CU 0
BLUE
13-19 mm
75 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7010A
4CU 0.5
RED
17-24 mm
80 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7011A
4CU 1
GOLD
19-29 mm
93 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7012A
4CU 1.25
PURPLE
21-33 mm
96 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7013A
4CU 1.5
SILVER
23-35 mm
97 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7014A
4CU 1.75
GREEN
25-41 mm
99 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7015A
4CU 2
RED
29-44 mm
110 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7016A
4CU 2.5
GOLD
33-55 mm
123 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7017A
PURPLE
43-66 mm
151 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7018A
BLUE
51-82 mm
185 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7019A
4CU 4
SILVER
64-100 mm
224 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7020A
3CU 0
BLUE
13-19 mm
74 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7001A
3CU 0.5
RED
17-24 mm
80 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7002A
4CU 3
4CU 3.5
3CU 1
GOLD
19-29 mm
84 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7003A
3CU 1.25
PURPLE
21-33 mm
87 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7004A
3CU 1.5
SILVER
23-35 mm
88 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7005A
3CU 1.75
GREEN
25-41 mm
90 g
12 kN / 14 kN
10 kN
A7006A
Route description from over 100 years ago recorded in
the Gorphwysfa Visitors Book, now the Pen y Pass Hostel.
Harnesses
Harnesses
Harnesses
36
37
The DMM harness range has now
established its own loyal following.
Climbers have begun to put their
trust in our software in the same way
they have trusted our hardware for
approaching 30 years.
There are no changes to the range for this year, but as
always we have an eye on the future and realise that we will
need to continue to develop this category in the same way
as we continually make forward strides with the hardware.
But for now, the Renegade, Puma and Maverick are our
top of the range models for Trad and Sports climbing, with
the increasingly popular Viper offering a less sophisticated
alternative, or as an entry level harness. The Centre Alpine
and Brenin continue to be first choice with groups and
activity centres, while the kids’ harnesses the Tom Kitten
and Tom Cat more than adequately look after our younger
climbers. So whatever your chosen discipline: Trad; Sport;
Indoor; or Winter; we have the harness to suit your needs.
Renegade
Top of the range fully featured adjustable
leg padded harness. Free floating waist pad
for perfectly centred racking. Waist pad
incorporates internal lumbar support for
ultimate comfort.
BENEFITS
• Padded leg loops with structural binding
for greater comfort and support
• 6 high capacity diagonal racks for fast gear
selection plus central rear rack
• Twin Hypalon ice screw carabiner racking
systems
• Adjustable shaped leg loops for all year
round use
• 20 mm belay loop rated at 25 kN
• Twin elasticated adjustable drop away bum
straps for calls of nature
Harnesses
Harnesses
38
Maverick
Viper
Premium product with fully featured fixed leg padded
harness.
The Viper has proved to be a very sought after
harness for those seeking a great value all
rounder which retains many of the features of
its more expensive counterparts. It also now
benefits from structural padded leg loops.
BENEFITS
• 3 sizes and padded leg loops with structural
binding for greater comfort and support
• The Maverick incorporates a floating waist design
which means the six diagonal gear racks [and one
conventional] can be aligned symmetrically
• Elasticated leg loops give a secure fit with massive
adjustment
• Waist buckle is a Slide Lock design although a
threadback version is available
• Twin elasticated adjustable drop away bum straps
for calls of nature
BENEFITS
Dedicated centre harness with ABS buckles.
BENEFITS
• 44 mm webbing for comfort and durability
• Auto Buckle System [ABS] is totally captive
allowing rapid and safe adjustment
• Right leg coloured red for ease of fitting
• Enjoy all the same great benefits and
features as the Renegade harness but
designed for a female fit!
• Padded leg loops with structural binding
for greater comfort and support
• Adjustable legs & waist with Slide Lock Buckles
• 5 large capacity gear loops and Cordura
face fabric
• Tapered waist belt for comfortable support
PRODUCT
Brenin
Similar in style to the massively popular
Renegade but with some very subtle changes
in sizing and ratios of dimensions to ensure the
best possible female fit.
BENEFITS
SIZE
[CM]
WAIST
[IN]
[CM]
LEG
[IN]
[G]
WEIGHT
[OZ]
39
Super Couloir
Puma
CATALOGUE NO.
OPTIONAL
ABS
BUCKLES
Full specification alpine harness for the serious
winter and alpine enthusiast.
Centre Alpine
BENEFITS
• 44 mm padded waist for lightweight
comfort
• ‘Nappy style’ for rapid and easy fitting
whilst wearing crampons
• 20 mm belay loop rated at 25 kN
• Twin Hypalon ice screw carabiner racking
strips
• Single elasticated drop away bum strap for
calls of nature
Ever popular and simple to use centre/group harness.
• 44 mm webbing for maximum comfort and
durability
• 3 thread back buckles for perfect adjustment
• Right leg coloured red for ease of fitting
• Popular hoop style yellow tie in point for safe
identification
• Single sliding gear loop for equipment stowage
• Simple elasticated bum strap
64-79
25-31
45-58
18-23
460
16.23
RENE-S
RENEGADE
MEDIUM
75-91
30-36
50-63
20-25
485
17.11
RENE-M
RENEGADE
LARGE
87-104
34-41
55-70
22-28
520
18.34
RENE-L
MAVERICK
SMALL
64-79
25-31
45-55
18-22
400
14.11
MAVE-S
MAVERICK
MEDIUM
75-91
30-36
50-60
20-24
425
14.99
MAVE-M
MAVERICK
LARGE
87-104
34-41
55-65
22-26
470
16.58
MAVE-L
VIPER
SMALL
64-79
25-31
45-58
18-23
400
14.11
VIPE-S
SUPER COULOIR
SMALL
VIPER
MEDIUM
75-91
30-36
50-63
20-25
425
14.99
VIPE-M
SUPER COULOIR
VIPER
LARGE
87-104
34-41
55-70
22-28
460
16.23
VIPE-L
SUPER COULOIR
PUMA
X-SMALL
59-80
23-31
50-60
20-24
410
14.46
PUMA-XS
SMALL
67-91
26-36
55-65
22-26
430
15.17
PUMA-S
MEDIUM
74-99
29-39
60-70
24-28
465
16.40
PUMA-M
BRENIN
REGULAR
45-125
18-49
45-80
18-31
435
15.34
BRENIN
BRENIN
X-LARGE
55-155
22-61
50-85
20-33
485
17.11
BRENIN-XL
BENEFITS
• 44 mm webbing for maximum comfort and
durability
• Auto Buckle System [ABS] is totally captive
allowing rapid and safe adjustment
• Yellow tie in points for safe identification
• Twin gear loops for equipment stowage
• One size
Bandolier
SMALL
PUMA
Fully adjustable chest harness with ABS buckles
for use with sit harnesses. Ideal to prevent
climber inversion.
BENEFITS
RENEGADE
PUMA
Chest Harness
Padded gear sling with 2 gear loops.
PRODUCT
Harness
Bag
High-quality, sturdy and
durable bag to store
your harness.
SIZE
[CM]
WAIST
[IN]
[CM]
60-80
24-31
40-55
MEDIUM
70-90
28-35
LARGE
80-100
31-39
SUPER COULOIR
X-LARGE
90-110
35-43
CENTRE ALPINE
REGULAR
40-125
16-49
CENTRE ALPINE
X-LARGE
60-150
24-59
CHEST HARNESS
ONE SIZE
75-115
75
30
BANDOLIER
ONE SIZE
–
–
–
LEG
[IN]
[G]
16-22
323
50-65
20-26
60-70
24-28
65-75
WEIGHT
[OZ]
CATALOGUE NO.
11.39
COUL-S
335
11.82
COUL-M
347
12.24
COUL-L
26-30
360
12.70
COUL-XL
40-70
16-28
400
14.11
ALPINE
50-90
20-35
425
14.99
ALPINE-XL
115
310
10.93
CHESTH
–
135
4.76
BANDOLIER
by Stu McAleese
Mike ‘Twid’ Turner, Stu McAleese, Mark Thomas
5th – 25th May 2010
One of the best things about expedition
climbing is coming back home...
40
“Pass me the sat phone Twid, I’m gonna
have to ring work and tell them I don’t
know when we’re getting out of here.”
This was the situation, completely
committed in a super remote part of the
world having an adventure of a lifetime.
Unexpectedly and against the clock, we
were going to have to walk out from base
camp immediately. Our Inuit friends
weren’t going to be able to make it out to
us across the fjord on their skidoos due to
the thawing conditions. We had to
‘man-haul’ our gear 15 miles non-stop over
night through slush and dangerous polar
bear territory to meet them after twentyone days climbing. Not the finish to the
expedition we were expecting but then we
had no choice.
All this after just climbing a mega new
big wall route we named ‘Arctic Monkeys’.
Our small team of Mike ‘Twid’ Turner,
Mark Thomas and myself were on a
dream expedition to Baffin Island with
the objective of climbing a new route. All
UIAGM Guides and with loads of expedition
climbing under our belts. We knew it was
going to be a big deal but none of us could
have anticipated the amazing adventure
it turned out to be. I guess uncertainty is
part of the beauty of expeditions.
To make the first ascent of this granite
face and mountain we had to spend
eighteen nights sleeping in portaledges
suspended in space. Once zipped inside
a cocoon it was ‘time-out’ and you could
almost forget where you were. At times
progress was slow and the involved
aid-climbing meant we only averaged two
pitches a day. We did some free climbing
but it wasn’t really an option at -20°C
temperatures with snow showers. Simply
preventing your fingers and toes from
getting frost-nip required a great deal
of effort and discipline. The intense cold
meant that some mornings it took an hour
to boil water and we were forced to climb
with every bit of warm gear on. At times it
was like living in a fridge.
The route followed a strong line up a
groove and corner on the front of a sheer
pillar. Consisting of 31 pitches of vertical
rock with 350m of mixed snow and ice
climbing to get to the start of the hard
climbing. At times the length and difficulty
felt relentless, continuously testing our
optimism that we would actually top-out.
I won’t deny it was hard graft and often
serious but what I felt when the three of us
eventually stood on top of that giant finger
of stone, I simply can’t put into words. Only
that it made it all worthwhile.
Now I’m back home to find Wales enjoying
a heat-wave and it’s all about going
cragging, being in the mountains and
hearing my mates talking of their big
sends and missions. It’s true there’s no
place like home.
Climbing feature
Climbing feature
Arctic Monkeys
Île de Baffin [ Baffin Island ]
Nunavut, Canadian Arctic Archipelago
VI A4 V+ 1400m
41
42
Left Clipper Leash
Snow and ice
Section
Snow
and
title
icetext
Snow and ice
Challenging winter conditions this year in the
UK tested a lot of climbers in Scotland, the
Lake District, and North Wales resulting in high
demand for our products.
The Rebel and Anarchist cemented their positions as leading technical
tools, while the Fly just keeps on selling as a fantastic all rounder, and
the Cirque became a very familiar sight out on the slopes and easy
gullies. We are in the process of upgrading the handgrips on most
models of axes, and also revamping our Crampon range, so further
details of these developments will be available in the winter.
43
Hammer Version
Rebel
Now anodised in steely corporate Titanium
colour, the Rebel continues to fly the flag as
our top-end technical tool. The Hot Forged
shaft is hugely strong, and offers two clipping
points for leashes either on the head or half
way up the shaft. Leashed or leashless, it is
a strong, light, and well balanced technical
tool capable of taking on the steepest of ice
or gnarliest of mixed horrors. The forged pick
ensures there are no weak points with this set
up. The adjustable finger rest allows for a large
range of hand sizes and thickness of gloves etc,
making sure your hand fits comfortably and
reducing fatigue.
Right Clipper Leash
BENEFITS
PRODUCT
•
•
•
•
•
•
One piece Hot Forged shaft/head
Hot Forged tapered pick
Ergonomic twin shot moulded handle
Adjustable trigger finger rest
Superb balance
Comfortable/secure clipper leash easy to
operate
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CATALOGUE NO.
REBEL ADZE
50 cm
650 g
A0231
REBEL HAMMER
50 cm
650 g
A0232
SPARE HAMMER
–
80 g
S0225
SPARE ADZE
–
87 g
S0226
SCREW SET
–
–
A0227S
B TYPE PICK
–
117 g
C0224
CLIPPER LEASH [RIGHT]
–
–
A1360R
CLIPPER LEASH [LEFT]
–
–
A1360L
Snow and ice
Snow and ice
Vapour
Cirque
44
Adze Version
Anarchist
The Anarchist too changes colour and becomes
anodised as opposed to powder coated. We
hope this will offer a more durable finish for
the axes. Again work is in hand to fine tune the
grips but news of that won’t be available until
the winter. Many of our top winter climbers
have been using the Anarchist for some of their
hardest icefall climbing too.
A super lightweight, very strong general
mountaineering tool. Features a curved shaft
for easier plunging when going uphill, and
standard leash included in the price.
Fully tested yet very light, the
Vapour is a great emergency or ski
mountaineering tool.
45
Standard Leash
Fly
A hugely popular all rounder. At home on steep
ice, mixed horrors or alpine summits. Comes
with a T pick as standard.
Choke Hold Leash
BENEFITS
•
•
•
•
•
One piece Hot Forged shaft/head
Hot Forged tapered pick
Adjustable ergonomic handle
Ideal for dry tooling/competition climbing
Very strong and superb balance
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CATALOGUE NO.
ANARCHIST
50 cm
650 g
A0222
FLY AXE
50 cm
680 g
A0171
FLY HAMMER
50 cm
685 g
A0172
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CATALOGUE NO.
FLY PICK/ADZE UNIT T TYPE
–
250 g
A0173
CIRQUE ALPINE AXE
50 cm
535 g
A0211
FLY PICK/ADZE UNIT B TYPE
–
240 g
A0173B
CIRQUE ALPINE AXE
55 cm
557 g
A0212
FLY PICK/HAMMER UNIT T TYPE
–
255 g
A0174
CIRQUE ALPINE AXE
60 cm
579 g
A0213
FLY PICK/HAMMER UNIT B TYPE
–
245 g
A0174B
CIRQUE ALPINE AXE
65 cm
601 g
A0214
SCREW SET PRE 2005
–
–
A1250S
VAPOUR ALPINE AXE
50 cm
440 g
A0201
SCREW SET POST 2005
–
–
A1450S
STANDARD LEASH
–
–
A0156
SCREW SET POST 2005
–
–
A1450S
DELUX CHOKE HOLD LEASH
–
–
A1359
Terminator
Crampons
Kicked, battered, crunched
and stamped, crampons are
possibly the piece of kit which
receives the most abuse.
Whether it’s a grade 2 gully in Scotland or a
mixed desperate Alpine face, the last thing you
want is your crampons breaking half way up
your climb. Functionality and durability are the
key features of all our DMM crampons.
46
The Terminator still heads up the line which
is at present being finalised and should be
revealed at the winter shows.
The world’s first fully asymmetrical crampon
still enjoys tremendous popularity and has a
loyal following. Fully rigid, with a variety of front
point options, the Terminator is brilliant on
steep ice pillars or mixed terrain. Antiballing
plates, heel spur and spare front points come
as standard.
Crampon Bag
The DMM Crampon Bag features a super
durable, envelope style construction. Available
in a stylish grey colour, the bag also features a
new zip closure for tools.
Terminator
Antiballing Plates
PRODUCT
LENGTH
WEIGHT
CATALOGUE NO.
TERMINATOR [inc. Antiballing Plate]
ONE SIZE
1020 g
C600AB
TERMINATOR ANTIBALLING PLATES
–
145 g
C6001
ICE POINTS PAIR
CRAMPON BAG
–
–
C6004
ONE SIZE
140 g
A62008
Pumping out on a blue sheet of ice the last thing you need is a screw that won’t bite or wind
in easily. That’s why DMM put a lot research and knowledge into designing the Revolution
screws and even more effort went into getting these ideals transferred to production. It is not
easy to build a good screw; you need very good steel for the tube, the outside teeth need to
be precision ground so that they both pull in the tube efficiently and hold it firmly when under
load. The tube also needs to be heat treated so that it offers a perfect balance of hardness
and ductility and the inside of the tube needs to be honed to a mirror finish to minimise any
frictional resistance when it is being wound into the ice.
Mountain guiding places huge demands on your equipment. One seasons work is
worth a couple of years normal use, even by active climbers, so any weakness is soon
exposed. Hardware is punished relentlessly by day after day of steep ice, scratching
around on the mixed terrain and weeks at a time on the rock. As professionals we
need kit that can be relied on and DMM hardware fits the bill every time. And after a
long season of work there’s nothing we like more than hammering it all again on our
playtime in the big hills.
Alpine Guides
Al Powell and Rich Cross
48
Snow and ice protection
Snow and ice protection
Photograph
© Mike ‘Twid’ Turner
49
Bulldog
Deadman
Revolution Ice Screws
The Bulldog has a new 11 mm
Dyneema double sling sewn onto
it. The pick is EN 24, 3.9 mm steel
and of course fully Heat Treated. A tried and
trusted very versatile piece of protection.
All Deadmen have been powder coated red
which gives a high quality durable and classy
finish. The striker plate is made of 304S
stainless steel, and the wire is [7 x 19] 4 mm
galvanised.
PRODUCT
WEIGHT
STRENGTH CATALOGUE NO.
REVOLUTION ICE SCREW 10 cm
116 g progression only
C6610
126 g
C6613
10 kN
PRODUCT
WEIGHT
STRENGTH CATALOGUE NO.
148 g
10 kN
C6617
DEADMAN – POWDER COATED
360 g
–
A1300
165 g
10 kN
C6622
BULLDOG – ICE ANCHOR
176 g
15 kN
C1325
It takes time for climbers to get to know and
trust new products. At DMM we understand
this and that’s why we are proud to
have had nearly 30 years of continuous
production for the climbing world. This
experience has led to a wealth of knowledge
and trust in our hardware.
50
Although the above is true, our software range is still relatively
new, but already we have seen rapid growth in sales in this area,
and that has much to do with the quality of the product.
Our range of pads has quickly grown to four, all of which use the
TM
best materials possible. Top quality 1000d Cordura, Plastel for
the closures, and Lowe Alpine load locker metal buckles all ensure
that the outer skin is strong and durable. However, it is what is on
the inside that makes all the difference when you hit the mat from
that elusive Highball problem. That is why we haven’t compromised
on quantity, or quality to make sure your landing is safe and secure
every time from the large surface area of the Dyno, the reassuring
thickness of the Highball, to the convenience of the Spot 2 and Bit.
Take your pick.
DOUBLE DENSITY FOAM
CONSTRUCTION
RUCKSACK STYLE
CARRYING SYSTEM
RUBBER MOULDED
CARRYING HANDLES
EXTRA LOOPS
AND STRAPS
LOAD LOCKER
BUCKLE
Bouldering mats
Section title text
Bouldering
Bouldering
51
Spot 2
The Spot 2 is larger than its predecessor,
offering a slightly cheaper alternative to the
ever popular Highball. Just like the Dyno and
the Highball, this latest addition has three
layers of quality foam, two high density and one
open cell, to ensure safe and secure landings
on rough terrain. The convenient carpet square
is also included in its velcro closure, and the
same velcro closure system featured on the old
version is replicated here.
To accompany the mats we have a selection of chalk bags in
modern fabrics and colours, and also crushed chalk, liquid chalk
or chalk balls to suit every occasion. If you want a bag to carry your
extras in, the Courier Bag is very versatile and can be used as a
rope bag or bouldering bag, or just a bag about town! All in all we
have applied the same rigorous standards we set ourselves with
our hardware to these soft goods.
OVERALL THICKNESS: 7 cm
2 cm layer high density foam
3 cm open cell foam
PRODUCT
BIT
SPOT 2
Bunker bouldering.
DYNO
HIGHBALL
THICKNESS
WIDTH [OPEN]
HEIGHT [OPEN]
WEIGHT
CATALOGUE NO.
4.5 cm
50 cm
100 cm
1.2 kg
BMAT-BIT
7 cm
100 cm
100 cm
3.2 kg
BMAT-SPOT2
9 cm
130 cm
100 cm
6.4 kg
BMAT-DYNO
10.5 cm
122 cm
99 cm
5.4 kg
BMAT-HBALL
Bunker bouldering.
52
Highball
Trad and Strone Bags
The Highball is a hinged style mat of very
generous proportions. It is filled with three
layers of foam forming a sandwich of two layers
of high density foam around a central layer of
conventional open cell. The advantages are that
the tougher high density layers spread the force
of the landing climber on the top side and also
help lessen the effects of uneven ground/rocks
on the underside. A comfortable rucksack style
carrying system complete with waistbelt can be
quickly changed to an over the shoulder style
arrangement. The closure flaps are secured
with aluminium buckles. These buckles are
the patented Load Locker buckle designed by
Lowe Alpine and made by DMM. The closure
flaps help secure items you might want to carry
inside your folded mat and prevent them falling
out. Two rubber moulded carrying handles
are ideal for moving the mat when in situ or for
carrying as a ‘suitcase’. Extra loops and straps
are provided to clip and secure an additional
bag etc. on the outside when carrying.
Classic designs of chalk bags, the Trad and
Strone come in a variety of contemporary
colours and fabrics.
Available in assorted colours.
Bags
Bouldering mats
Zoe Wood, Yellow Circuit,
L’Elephant, Fontainebleau.
53
OVERALL THICKNESS: 10.5 cm
4.5 cm open cell foam
Dyno
The third offering in our trio is the Dyno, featuring a
‘Taco’ style fold instead of a hinge. This pad also has a
three layer sandwich of foam, although since the pad
folds rather than hinges the high density foam has to
be a little thinner. Other features are similar to the
Highball, a comfortable removable rucksack style
carrying system, alloy buckles and a carpet square for
cleaning rockshoes on.
OVERALL THICKNESS: 9 cm
Bit
1.5 cm layer high density foam
6.5 cm open cell foam
This dependable mat is designed to accompany
existing Dyno and Highball mats and protect
the climber against short falls; so leaving your
bigger mat ready for the nasty stuff!
Courier Bag
Classic Rope
Bags
A totally modern, large capacity courier style rope bag
that is perfect for everyday life, whether you are going to
the gym, the boulders or work. Featuring a detachable
tarp, an organiser panel and fully adjustable shoulder
and waist straps.
Our Classic Rope Bag has capacity to carry an
80 m rope plus shoes and draws. The bag also
comes with a detachable, padded, rucksack
style harness plus a large tarp and 4 colour
coded tie-in points.
Available in Black, Denim Blue, Rich Red and
Charcoal Grey.
Available in Black, Denim Blue, Rich Red
and Charcoal Grey.
OVERALL THICKNESS: 4.5 cm
4.5 cm layer high density foam
Font Boulder Bag
Large communal bouldering bag. Secure
closure, horizontal toothbrush elastics.
Good sized external pocket to keep keys etc. safe.
Available in assorted colours.
[left-right]
Working with the Soil Association’s
only UK certified organic t-shirt printer,
we have sourced the finest high quality
t-shirts and hooded sweatshirts, made from
organic certified cotton. They have been
printed using water based inks and are the
perfect addition to your DMM rack.
Chalk Ball [56 g], Liquid Chalk [200 ml],
Crushed Chalk Tub [100 g], Crushed
Chalk Bag [250 g] and Finger Tape
[10 m long x 2.5 cm wide]
We realise that everybody has to start somewhere, and that there are many children entering
the sport at a young age, so we offer an increasing range of products designed specifically
with kids in mind. The Kids Ascent Helmet caters for those smaller but very precious heads,
while the Tom Cat and Tom Kitten offer two options of harnesses. The Tom Kitten is a full
body harness doing away with the need to use the Chest Harness in conjunction with a sit
harness, and is ideal for smaller children before they progress to the Tom Cat. The latter is
a conventional sit harness in the style of the adult versions, and it features the adult floating
waist system which helps ensure the harness is centred on the child’s waist allowing a more
comfortable fit. Our Gym Shoes have been well received and will fit all but the very smallest
of feet, starting at a size 3 UK, they are durable and comfortable.
100% certified combed organic cotton certified
by Control Union to GOTS 180 g/m. The
hoodies have a double lined hood and are
heavy weight, long lasting and available in a
range of great colours.
54
We have mens’ and womens’ t-shirts and a
unisex hoodie available in a variety of colours.
Ascent Helmet
Gym Shoes
PRODUCT
WEIGHT
Available in Orange or White
ASCENT
375 g
ASCENT
375 g
Lightweight, durable rock shoes.
BENEFITS
• Lightweight construction
• Breathable fabric
• Sizes 3-13
SIZE
COLOUR
CATALOGUE
54-62 cm
WHITE
HELM-W
54-62 cm
ORANGE
HELM-O
PRODUCT
CATALOGUE
TRAD [ASSORTED COLOURS AVAILABLE]
CB1500ASS
STRONE [ASSORTED COLOURS AVAILABLE]
CB1502ASS
FONT [ASSORTED COLOURS AVAILABLE]
CB1503ASS
CLASSIC [4 COLOURS AVAILABLE]
RB1503ASS
COURIER BAG [4 COLOURS AVAILABLE]
GUIDE BOOK COVERS
Guide Book
Covers
White Version
RB08ASS
A6011 / A6012
FINGER TAPE
DMMCFT25
LIQUID CHALK
DMMCLIQUID
CHALK BALLS
DMMCBALLS
CRUSHED CHALK BAG
DMMCCRUSH
CRUSHED CHALK TUB
DMMCBAG
The Tom Cat is our new sit harness for children. It is
built to the same specification as our top of the range
Renegade harness and features the same floating waist
belt to allow perfect centering of the gear loops.
BENEFITS
• Floating waist belt with Slide Lock Buckles
• Fully padded with 2 gear loops
• Super comfy, adult looking harness
• Slide Lock Buckles - colour coded tie ins
• Padded floating leg and gear loops
• Suitable for children up to 40 kg
PRODUCT
SIZE
TOM CAT
KIDS
KIDS
TOM KITTEN
DMMWT
PRODUCT
DMMH
55
Kids’ Ascent
Helmet
The Tom Kitten is our full body harness for children.
BENEFITS
DMM-TM
RBOOT-GYM
• Lightweight construction
• Breathable fabric
• From size 3
Tom Cat
T-SHIRT WOMEN
GYM SHOES
BENEFITS
Available in white or orange.
T-SHIRT MEN
HOODIES UNISEX
Lightweight, durable
rock shoes.
New for this year we are
offering a Kids version
of this popular model.
Smaller sizing, a
better cradle design,
reduced weight and
better ventilation will
make this a much sought
after helmet for Groups,
Schools, Centres and Gyms .
Tom
Kitten
The Ascent is strong and robust, yet still
relatively light, making it ideal for centre/all
round usage.
Kids
Gym Shoes
KIDS’ GYM SHOES
[CM]
WAIST
[IN]
[CM]
50-75
20-30
40-50
30-62
19-24
CATALOGUE NO.
RBOOT-GYM
LEG
23-55
PRODUCT
[IN]
[G]
16-20
320
WEIGHT
[OZ]
11.29
CATALOGUE NO.
TOMC
9-22
350
12.35
TOMK
WEIGHT
SIZE
COLOUR
CATALOGUE NO.
KIDS’ ASCENT
375 g
54-62 cm
WHITE
HELM-W
KIDS’ ASCENT
375 g
54-62 cm
ORANGE
HELM-O
Kids’ climbing
Chalk, helmets and clothing
Kids’ climbing
T-shirts
and hoodies
Chalk and
Finger Tape
NICAS has now been up and running for 2 years,
we now have 26 Primary Centres spread across
England, Wales, Scotland, Northern Ireland
and Eire and 117 Awarding Centres giving a
total of 143 NICAS centres that have registered
an estimated 20,000 young climbers for the
scheme since its inception. The ABC Training
Trust oversees the running of NICAS and in
doing so, endeavours to provide our Primary
and Awarding Centres with a quality support
service, and proud to be associated with all of
our centres, large or small. NICAS is proud to
work with DMM in helping to support climbing at
a grass roots level not only through its support
for NICAS but in producing equipment for the
younger generation of climbers.
56
DMM has a fantastic
reputation as a
manufacturer of hardware.
So it might come as a
surprise to our customers
that we will be delivering a
range of new DMM branded
ropes in the Spring of 2011.
However we know our limitations, and as
with certain other processes or products
we have decided to call on an expert in
this field. BEAL have been manufacturing
ropes for 30 years and are viewed as a
world leader so it was a natural move
for us to call on all their knowledge and
technical expertise to produce a range
of ropes aimed first and foremost at our
home market.
We have been guided by the team
at BEAL to help us bring together a
portfolio of product that has very specific
characteristics, in other words, we knew
what we wanted, and they knew how to
make it!
Introducing BEAL
“BEAL has been manufacturing climbing
ropes for over 35 years now and is
justifiably recognised as a world leader
in its field, in much the same way as
DMM is acknowledged as masters of
metal goods. When DMM, recognised
everywhere as a world leader in quality
and image, approached us to produce
a range of Dynamic and Static ropes
for them we were very proud to be
chosen and involved in the project. DMM
obviously have an excellent knowledge
of climbing, and had a pretty firm idea
of the specifications they wanted for the
various ropes to cope with the specific
demands of climbing not just in the UK
but in venues world wide. Our role has
been to draw on our technical expertise
and experience to produce the ropes
that DMM asked for, as well as offering
help and guidance on technical issues.
The bottom line was that the ropes had
to match up to the very highest quality
standards set by DMM’s hardware and
we are confident that we have achieved
this. We look forward to working with
DMM in the future to continue to develop
their own brand range, and through close
collaboration will ensure that the ropes
we produce for them live up to the high
expectations of their customer.”
Michel Beal
New Breed 9.3 mm
Finger searing redpoints or complete alpine
security – when weight and performance is
crucial the new breed offers a new level of
performance and versatility with optimum
handling. Making baggage allowance a worry of
the past. Omnidry construction.
Prodigy 10 mm
Like it’s techno namesake, the Prodigy works
and plays hard – a workhorse rope that exudes
attitude, absorbs punishment and pushes
technical limits with no compromising in
performance. Exodry or Omnidry construction.
Resolution 8.5 mm
Traditional climbing has always been at the heart
of DMM’s product range and the Resolution
rope epitomises everything we strive for in all
our equipment: light, balanced and easy to use.
Available in Classic and Omnidry construction
to suit all climbing styles from Peak district
outcrops to Himalayan mixed climbs.
PRODUCT GROUP DIAMETER
Statement 10 mm
Our Statement rope offers no compromise in
construction at an ‘entry level’ price point that
would suggest different. Excellent handling,
premium components and impressive laboratory
results make it the new benchmark in ropes of
its class. Classic or Exodry construction.
Big Jim 10 mm
Ridge 9 mm
Durable, hard wearing, tough, call it what
you want but it all boils down to one thing –
‘resistance to abuse’. The Big Jim uses novel
construction techniques to combat abrasion,
sheath slippage and bunching up normally
associated with gym ropes.
The ridge was spec’d by instructors for
instructors and conforms to all the MLTB
requirements for scrambling and short roping.
Excellent handling and Exodry construction
makes it a great mountain all-rounder.
LENGTHS
[M]
COLOURS
WEIGHT
NO OF FALLS
[UIAA]
IMP. FORCE
PROPORTION
OF SHEATH
CARRIERS
[BOBBINS]
FINISH
50, 60, 70, 80
ORANGE
57 g
6-7
8.8 kN
36 %
48 BOBBIN – 2 OVER 2
OMNIDRY
NEW BREED
9.3 mm
PRODIGY
10 mm
50, 60, 70, 80
PURPLE
64 g
9
7.1 kN
37 %
OMNIDRY
PRODIGY
10 mm
50, 60, 70, 80
BLUE
64 g
9
7.1 kN
37 %
EXODRY
STATEMENT
10 mm
50, 60, 70
COPPER
66 g
8
7.1 kN
29 %
EXODRY
STATEMENT
10 mm
50, 60, 70
GREEN
66 g
8
7.1 kN
29 %
CLASSIC
RESOLUTION
8.5 mm
50, 60
RED & BLUE
46 g
15
5.6 kN
43 %
OMNIDRY
RESOLUTION
8.5 mm
50, 60
GREEN & YELLOW
46 g
15
5.6 kN
43 %
CLASSIC
BIG JIM
10.2 mm
150, 300
BLUE & RED
67 g
7-8
8.4 kN
36 %
CLASSIC
SHORTY
10 mm
30, 40
ASSORTED
66 g
7
8.4 kN
36 %
CLASSIC
RIDGE
9 mm
18, 30
PURPLE & RED
48 g
17
5.9 kN
42 %
EXODRY
To accompany the above, we will offer a full range of Static Rope and Accessory Cord.
Ropes
Ropes
Ropes
57
Nylon Slings
Dyneema Slings
Slings
16 mm Orange
8 mm
Red
Slings
Zoe Wood, Tryfan Bach,
Ogwen Valley.
8 mm
Blue
16 mm Grey
58
59
11 mm
Grey
PRODUCT
STRENGTH
CAT. NO.
DYNEEMA SLING 8 mm x 30 cm
22 kN
SP0830
22 kN
SP0860
22 kN
SP08120
22 kN
SP08240
22 kN
SP08400
22 kN
SP1112AS
22 kN
SP1118AS
22 kN
SP1125AS
22 kN
SP1130
22 kN
SP1160
22 kN
SP11120
22 kN
SP11240
NYLON SLING 16 mm x 12 cm
22kN
MA1612AS
22 kN
MA1618AS
22 kN
MA1660
22 kN
MA1690
22 kN
MA16120
22 kN
MA16240
30 kN
MA2660
30 kN
MA26120
30 kN
MA26240
RIPSTOP D.L.L. SHOCK ABSORBER
22 kN
25RSDLL19
DAISY CHAIN 135 cm RED
22 kN [2 kN] DC135RD
DAISY CHAIN 135 cm BLUE
22 kN [2 kN] DC135BL
11 mm
Gold
Daisy
Chains
Nick Bullock feeling the burn on the awesome
Angel Dust [E6 6a], Blacksmith Zawn, Gogarth.
BS EN ISO 9001:2008
QUALITY MANAGEMENT SYSTEM
The Quality Management System maintained by DMM is
registered to BS EN ISO9001:2008 Quality Management
System Requirements. The main aim of this system is
reflected in our Mission Statement:
“Together each one of us will make a better,
safer product for our customers”
60
Our system has evolved and continues to evolve as a
result of nearly 30 years of development, investment
and improvement to all of our activities. ‘Quality’
both actual and perceived is our number one
objective, reflecting the fact that each and every day
thousands of people around the world rely on DMM
products to save their lives. Our system is audited by
independent auditors at regular intervals to ensure
continuing compliance to the requirements of BS
EN ISO9001:2008, and as part of our commitment to
continuous improvement.
Klettersteig
Captive Eye
Screwgate
Gym Draw
Equal D
PRODUCT
Offset D
STRENGTH
[GATE CLOSED]
STRENGTH
[GATE OPEN]
WEIGHT
GATE
OPENING
CATALOGUE NO.
KLETTERSTEIG 12 mm STEEL SCREWGATE
45 kN
20 kN
258 g
23 mm
c842
KLETTERSTEIG 12 mm STEEL QUICKLOCK
45 kN
20 kN
274 g
23 mm
c843
KLETTERSTEIG 12 mm STEEL LOCKSAFE
45 kN
20 kN
275 g
23 mm
c847
OFFSET D 12 mm STEEL SCREWGATE
45 kN
25 kN
226 g
18 mm
c812
OFFSET D 12 mm STEEL QUICKLOCK
45 kN
25 kN
242 g
18 mm
c813
OFFSET D 12 mm STEEL LOCKSAFE
45 kN
25 kN
243 g
18 mm
c817
EQUAL D 10 mm STEEL SCREWGATE
30 kN
15 kN
150 g
15 mm
c412
GYM DRAW
30 kN
15 kN
150 g
15 mm
C416CB
CAPTIVE EYE STEEL SCREWGATE
45 kN
–
250 g
18 mm
C962
CE MARKING & PRODUCT
CONFORMANCE
The CE marking process is known as ‘Type Examination’
and is an important supplement to our Quality
Management System. In line with the requirements
of European Union Personal Protective Equipment
[PPE] Directive 89/686/EEC, all products designed and
manufactured by DMM which are classified as PPE are
independently Type Examined and tested to the relevant
European Standard for Mountaineering & Industrial Fall
Arrest. Only after meeting the requirements of the PPE
Directive and the relevant European Standard are we
allowed to mark 0120CE [the “CE” mark] on our products.
BS EN ISO9001:2008 compliance and CE marking/
product conformance are monitored by CEN
[Committee for European Normalization. Notified
Body No. 0120 [SGS UK Ltd., Weston-Super-Mare,
Somerset, UK]. It is a legal requirement that we
maintain our Quality Management System as part of
the PPE Directive ‘CE’ marking process.
3-SIGMA TESTING
INVESTOR IN PEOPLE
This is our system for setting and monitoring
the strength ratings as marked on our products,
in line with the minimum requirements of the
relevant European and other Standards, the
‘3 Sigma Testing’ method. DMM were the first
company in our industry to use this Statistical
Quality Control [SQC] technique. Using test data
derived from samples tested to destruction
at the design stage we can set the strength
rating of the product. We then have a system
of ongoing batch testing which monitors and
ensures that the 3 Sigma Rated Strength is
maintained and actually exceeded.
Part of our philosophy at DMM is to continue
to improve the breaking strength of our
products in excess of the standards which
may be required. We do this to lessen the
chance of failure in situations and conditions
which might not be reflected in the standard
but which we know as climbers ourselves can
cause product failure.
UIAA
CONFORMANCE
The UIAA stands for the Union of International
Alpinists Associations and it is a body which
promotes the safety and interests of all
parties involved in mountaineering and related
activities worldwide. The UIAA
publish standards for mountaineering
equipment which supplement the
requirements of the corresponding European
Standards mentioned above.
All DMM Mountaineering products are also
certified to the relevant UIAA Mountaineering
Standard and a list of UIAA certified products
can be found on their website: www.uiaa.ch
For more information on any of these areas,
please visit our website at:
WWW.DMMWALES.COM
DMM were the first manufacturing company in
Wales to be registered to the Investor in People
[IIP] standard [July 1992] & in December 2006
achieved recognition to the latest version of this
important standard. This standard is people
orientated & its main objectives are: [a] to
develop strategies to improve the performance
of the organisation through its people; [b] to
ensure that the organisation takes action in
order to improve its performance through its
people; and [c] to evaluate the impact of this
investment in people on the performance of the
organisation. IIP is more than just a training
system. The IIP system is a key mechanism that
helps us to target areas for improvement in all
aspects of the business.
“DMM and The Association of
Mountaineering Instructors
[AMI] have had a long and
successful relationship. AMI
is the Professional body of
Mountaineering Instructors in
the UK and has over 900 members.
When Mountain Instructors are
working the last thing they need
to worry about is the quality and
design of the equipment that is
keeping them and their clients safe.
Weather working on a North Wales
sea cliff or half way up an ice climb
on Ben Nevis DMM equipment has
been there in the thick of it for
some years. AMI members often
feedback to DMM on design ideas
and requirements. By working
together the equipment produced
gives Mountain Instructors what
they need to get the job done,
and done safely.”
ED CHARD
DEVELOPMENT OFFICER
AMI
For information on the Association of Mountaineering
Instructors and it’s members visit www.ami.org.uk
Awards, standards and QA
Steel carabiners
Awards
Where weight isn’t an issue, but
durability and strength are,
choose from a comprehensive
range of steel carabiners. All
steel carabiners are zinc plated to
reduce the likelihood of corrosion.
61
Professional
Products
Catalogue
Any person reading this brochure is responsible for getting the proper
instruction in the techniques and equipment necessary for climbing and
assumes all responsibility for injuries incurred by yourself or those injuries
you inflict on others. DMM International make no attempt to offer instruction of
any kind, nor should you assume that information you read here is an adequate
substitute for instruction or experience. No claim is made about the suitability
of this information for any purpose, either stated or implied. By reading this
information, you accept full responsibility for its use, and any consequences
of that use. When climbing, it’s vital to evaluate everything for yourself, and
judgement is very important, be careful out there and enjoy yourself!
In addition to this
Product Catalogue for
the leisure market,
DMM International also
produces a Professional
Products brochure for all
businesses whose people
work at height.
62
DMM International has worked hard
to achieve its position as a world
leader in the design and production
of Fall Protection, Rescue and Rope
Access hardware.
We now supply worldwide and
employ over 100 people in our
factories and offices which are
situated on the banks of Llyn Padarn
near the village of Llanberis in the
heart of Snowdonia, North Wales.
Our production area, which is now in
excess of 20,000 m2, contains some
of the most advanced equipment and
technology used in the manufacture
of climbing and fall protection
equipment in the world. We have
a fully integrated manufacturing
facility, utilising a wide range of
processes enabling us to design and
manufacture our products in-house.
If you would like a copy of the
Professional Products Brochure
please contact Paul Simkiss at DMM
or you can download a pdf from...
DMM makes every effort to ensure the information in this
catalogue is correct and up to date. However we reserve
the right to change product specification when or if deemed
necessary. Whilst every effort is made to ensure the
information held within this brochure is accurate,
DMM International cannot be held responsible for any
inaccuracies or omissions.
www.dmmprofessional.com
© 2010 DMM Engineering / International Ltd.
DMM Professional
Disclaimer
Climbing is potentially a very dangerous activity. Equipment aside, judgement,
common sense and experience are vital ingredients to keeping you safe.
63
DMM INTERNATIONAL
Llanberis
Gwynedd
Wales
United Kingdom
LL55 4EL
General enquiries: +44 [0]1286 872 222
Fax: +44 [0]1286 872 090
Email: [email protected]
www.dmmwales.com
Designed by Fathom Creative, Manchester.

DMM-1863 2010 Catalogue Complete_PDF.indd

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