Ribeira Sacra
Transcription
Ribeira Sacra
Ribeira Sacra Wine growing in Ribeira Sacra has a long history and was stimulated by the establishment of the first monasteries here in the twelfth century. Vineyards are located on steep slopes on both sides of the Rios Mino and Sil where the only possibility for horticulture is through the use of terracing. This is a region of heroic viticulture. It’s also a region of artisan wine making. Vineyard plots are small, as are holdings per grower and operations in the ca. 100 wineries. Of the D.O.’s annual harvest of WINESTATS.INFO ca. 5.6 million kg, 85% is Mencia. The region faces a number of challenges including the high maintenance costs of the road network, high production costs, an aging workforce and the difficulty of finding skilled labour. Exports are tiny, but have received recent critical acclaim, especially in the U.S. After a difficult few years at the start of the 21st century, wine producers are revitalising the region which now brings in revenues of €10 million per annum to this rural region. It looks set to have an exciting future. Ribeira Sacra in Figures INTRODUCTION Climate The Ribeira Sacra (literally sacred riverbank) region of Galicia is a stunningly beautiful area with a rich cultural heritage including Romanesque churches and castles. With a mountainous terrain and steep river valleys, it is Ideally suited for outdoor leisure pursuits and is considered to have high tourist potential. Winegrowing here is an ancient occupation, possibly dating back to Roman times. Located upstream from the Rias Baixas and Ribeiro wine regions, Ribeira Sacra has an increased continental character, but the influence of the Atlantic is still felt, giving a temperate climate. Cultivation of any sort is only possible because generations of farmers have carved narrow terraces into seemingly impossibly steep valley slopes of the Rio Minho and Rio Sil. Ribeira Sacra and Priorat are the only D.O. regions of Spain which are recognised by CERVIM as being comprised of heroic vineyards. This designation recognises the difficulties of practising viticulture due to steep mountain slopes and the requirement for terracing. Winters are not extremely cold and average monthly temperatures do not go below 0°C. Average summer temperatures only just reach a maximum of 30°C, although individual days may spike above 35°C. Lower elevations experience warmer conditions and are harvested earlier than more elevated vineyard plots. Nights are cool and the diurnal variation slows ripening and encourages acidity retention. Rainfall is concentrated in late autumn and winter months but spring rains can result in poor flowering/fruit set as happened in 2008. Lack of significant mechanisation, small vineyard plots, the difficulty of finding skilled labour and the wineries having small production volumes all contribute towards a relatively high cost base. Although it received Denominación de Origen (D.O.) status in 1979, by the early 21st century this seemed to be a wine region in decline. Recent efforts by the Galician Government have greatly improved parts of the rural infrastructure including roads and water supply. This, coupled with determined producers and greater promotion has reawakened interest in this wine region. It now appears to be on the cusp of receiving much more widespread interest and critical acclaim. GEOGRAPHY Vineyards are located between 200-700 m on both sides of the Rio Minho and Rio Sill and are distributed between five subzones. The challenging topography of Ribeira Sacra has come about by the uplift and erosion of igneous and metamorphic rocks which usually yield thin, coarse-grained, soils. Maintaining these soils on such steep slopes requires ongoing attention. Centro di Ricerche, Studi e Valorizzazione per la Viticoltura Montana WINESTATS.INFO 2 Ribeira Sacra in Figures VITICULTURE Growers Throughout most of the 21st century the number of registered growers has remained roughly constant at between 2,600 to 2,900 growers. An increase to 3,048 growers was reported in 2012. Since the terrain consists of steep valley slopes, farming by necessity takes place on narrow terraces. This means that vineyard holdings are often split between a number of small separate plots which together with a lack of mechanisation contribute towards high production costs. The average vineyard holding is only 0.4 ha. Grape Varietals There are six white and six red varietals which are recommended for use according to the regulations of the Denominación de Orixe Ribeira Sacra issued in 2012. In addition, two black varietals have been authorised Ribeira Sacra Grape Varietals Recommended Vineyard Area The total vineyard area of Ribeira Sacra has remained roughly constant at ca. 1,250 ha. There are no published figures as the proportion of black and white varietals in the vineyard but, based on grape production reports, the vast majority of vines must be black varietals. Ribeira Sacra in 2012 Vineyard area 1,276 ha Number of growers 3,048 Average holding/grower 0.4 ha Data Source: España Ministerio de Agricultura 3 WINESTATS.INFO Authorised White Albariño, Godello, Dona Branca, Loureira Blanca, Torrontés Treixadura, Black Caiño tinto, Garnacha tintureira, Brancellao, Mencia, Mouraton, Merenzao, Souson, Tempranillo Source: Diario Oficial de Galicia, No 152 (2012) Grapes Harvested & Crushed The amount of grapes harvested in Ribeira Sacra has increased quite significantly during the 21st century. From ca. 2 million kg at the beginning of the century, harvests over the last five year period (2009-2013) have averaged 5.6 million kg. This sharp increase mainly reflects changing demand for Ribeira Sacra grapes with only small amounts of fruit now being left unpicked. Ribeira Sacra in Figures White grape production in the period from 20092013 has amounted to only 0.2-0.4 million kg per annum. Of this Godello accounts for ca. 70%, of the harvest. Albariño (ca.15%) and Treixadura (ca. 10%) make up much of the remainder. WINE PRODUCTION The number of wineries in Ribeira Sacra has ranged between 80-100 during the 21st century. All wineries now do their own bottling. Since production volumes are small and investment funds scarce, most wineries operate using traditional equipment. The Amandi subzone has the largest number of wineries (ca. 35) and the Quiroga-Bibei subzone has the least (ca. 10).. Black grape account for well over 90% of Ribeira Sacra’s harvests and of this amount Mencia’s contribution has been over 90% for the last five years. Or to put it another way, although 12 grape varietals are recommended for use in D.O. Ribeira Sacra, Mencia makes up ca. 85% of the harvest. Of the remaining black grape production, Garnacha is the next most important, despite it being only an authorised variety. For four of the last five years Garnacha production has exceeded that of all white grapes During the 21st century total wine production has increased markedly and broadly in line with harvest size. Production over the period from 2008 to 2012 has averaged 25,000 hl. WINESTATS.INFO 4 Ribeira Sacra in Figures SALES Volume per litre have fluctuated within the range €4.0-5.5/ litre. The apparently high value for exports in 2012 may be anomalous due to the very small volumes involved. Sale volumes for Ribeira Sacra’s wines over the period 2008-2012 have averaged only 20,500 hl. Purchases within Spain account for ca. 98% of the total. Of the tiny amount of wine that makes it into the export market, a disproportionate number of bottles are of white wine (ca. 40%). REFERENCES Xunta de Galicia (2008) Plan Actuacion global de infraestruturas Viticolas na Ribeira Sacra Lucense. 21pp Revenue Over the past five years revenues from the sale of Ribeira Sacra wines have averaged €9.8 million per annum. This represents an important source of revenue for this largely rural community. Revenues 5 WINESTATS.INFO WEBSITES Consejo Regulador, D.O. Ribeira Sacra www.ribeirasacra.org Ribeira Sacra v1.0, Nov 2013