La Ferté-Bernard - Perche Sarthois
Transcription
La Ferté-Bernard - Perche Sarthois
The Perche Sarthois, a listed Pays d’art et d’histoire the heritage of La Ferté-Bernard let us tell you about Map of La Ferté-Bernard, Boulevard d'artillerie in front of 1826. The river cuts off the the château, from place de la château from the town to Lice. Anonymous drawing, 1760. Rue Carnot. The Petit Mail in the first half of the 20th century. the north and the La Ferté-Bernard is closely tied to the river Huisne. In the 11th century the river was a route between the Paris basin and the west of France, hence the original settlement here. The shape of the town countryside to the west. La Ferté-Bernard: 11th century roots of Bonnétable, and Saint- The Bourgneuf neighbourhood which dates back to 1555. Several low-cost housing appeared in the 13th century. The population then was 1800-1850: a time of change In the 1920s, the mayor, Barthélémy gate, which opens Georges Desnos, modernised developments were built to The town of La Ferté-Bernard onto the Le Mans-Paris route. After the Hundred Years War, around 1,000. The main square, place de la the town and improved living accomodate the growing dates back to 1027 when The fortress remained in the La Ferté-Bernard was rebuilt République, was created in 1850 conditions by razing buildings population, which doubled th th Avesgaud, bishop of Le Mans hands of the Bernard family and improved. It was at this unfit for habitation and between 1950 and 1980. It is from the end of the 11th to the time, in 1450, that the work 17 and 18 century: lacking in elbow room and marked the beginning of and feudal lord built a fortress the urbanisation of the north of replacing them by new now stable, with 9,278 here. He chose the marshlands late 14th century. Their name, began to build the church of By the 17th century, the town the town. With the arrival of accommodation. The housing inhabitants. of the valley of the river Huisne combined with the word Notre-Dame-des-Marais. The was lacking in space. the railway in 1854 in the on rue Robert Surmont is an In the late 1980s the town as they were easy to defend and “ferté”, an old word meaning walls of the town were rebuilt It continued to spread outwards neighbouring town of Saint- example of the constructions of began enhancing its close to ancient transport links. fortress, gave the town its name. in 14th century stone, capable of and several convents such as les Antoine-de-Rochefort, there was this period. architectural heritage and also resisting artillery and Saint- Filles de Notre-Dame, which a marked increase in commerce Julien gate was rebuilt around still remains today, were built. and industry in La Ferté- around which stood the Growth during the Middle-Ages 1480. The town walls, deprived of seigniorial buildings and the The lower bailey grew into a Gradually, outlying districts their military functions, were lower bailey which housed the more urban development during sprang up around the town’s outbuildings. There were two the 12th century, and spread entrances, Saint-Julien gate, towards the faubourg Saint- which faces towards the town Barthélémy, (on the site of today’s place Ledru Rollin). The fortress was composed of the upper bailey or courtyard, focused on developing culture and sports. A recreation park Bernard. 1950-1980: unprecedented expansion The town grew to such an Thanks to its location half way by a cultural centre in 1994 dismantled little by little and extent that Saint-Antoine and a between Paris and the west of and a library in 2013, all of walls, such as Les Guillotières, four of the five gates were part of Cherreau and Cherré France, to the availability of which are located between the on the road to Le Mans, destroyed between 1777 and were annexed by La Ferté- labour and space to spread out, old town and the more recent 1836. New streets were Bernard in 1889, taking the the town became industrialised, neighbourhoods. designed and promenades (or population to over 5,000. which in turn generated more malls*) built. was opened in 1989, followed housing and infrastructure. 1 View of La Ferté-Bernard from Chapel of Saint-Lyphard, purchased Old houses between the branch Portrait of the Duke of Orleans, Saint-Julien gate, before the Paumier-Mauger family house, the north-west in the early 19th by the town and restored in the of the river rue du Pavillon and founder of the oratory. Stained- replacement of the wooden lintel built in 1906, now the Youth Club. century. Lithograpy by Saint- 1980s. Listed as a historic building rue Delaborde, gradually glass window of the Saint-Lyphard by a stone arch towards the end Elme de Champ, 1826 since 1981. demolished after World War 1. chapel, 1990. Designed by Denis of the 19th century, by J. Jacottet, Béalet and made by Didier Alliou lithography Lemercier. 2 The site of the castle and chapel of Saint-Lyphard Circuit 1.5 km approximately 45 mins The old town centre of Vitrail France. creation of boulevards* Make your way towards Saint- designed to transport artillery Julien gate via rue Florant. 1480 at the same time as the rest of the town walls. The general structure of in the former lower bailey. along the canals and behind the century, as can be seen by the Next to the landing stage you The large house next door, The walled town forms a Avesgaud’s castellum still The square still bears that name castle, where they still remain outer gallery, and reworked in can see the remains of the town neo-regionalist in style, was square of buildings crossed by remains. The fortress originally today (place de la Lice). today. the 19 and 20 centuries. walls as they were rebuilt after built in 1906 on the site of the two passageways for carts and comprised an artificial mound In 1392, following an The tour-porche (porch tower) In the 1980s, the town acquired the Hundred Years war, around original mound. Its steeply pedestrians and closed by on which the master tower, attempted assassination of and the tour du Trésor (treasure and restored the chapel of Saint- 1450-1480. The sparse remains sloping, overhanging roof, its drawbridges, a portcullis* and known as the Tour du Trésor Olivier de Clisson by Pierre de tower) were destroyed around Lyphard. A Romanesque style illustrate a fairly low curtain colours and Art Nouveau style gates whose cramping is still (treasure tower), was built. Craon, constable of France, 1830-1850 when rue Alfred aperture was discovered, which wall*, with a crenellated decorations, typical of the early visible. The defence is assured It was placed in the middle of lord of La Ferté, Charles VI Marchand was built. dates its construction in the late parapet and probably 20th century, are in stark by two large towers with a the fortress, which was entirely ordered the castle to be The originally L-shaped 12th or early 13th century, strengthened with earth from contrast to the neighbouring rampart walk*, battlements* surrounded by water and served destroyed. The remains were seigniorial dwelling at the back perhaps after the lower bailey behind. The now blocked houses. and machicolations*. Several as a support for several handed over to the king’s of the courtyard, which no was urbanised. In the late 14 canon-port*, visible at the end buildings. The porch tower brother, Louis I of Orléans. He longer sports its wing, dates century a small, Gothic style of the wall, shows how the Saint-Julien gate served as a link between the is to be thanked for the partial back to the 15th century and oratory was added to the defence system was adapted to Records mention the gate for château and the town, located reconstruction of the dwelling was extended in the 17th original building. suit the artillery of the times. the first time in 1476, but it no th th th openings show that the fortress and the chapel of Saint-Lyphard. The walls were protected by a doubt dates from the original The fortifications were steep mound of earth where the fortifications. The gate as we reinforced in the 1470s with the rue Florant is today. see it today was rebuilt around was adapted for artillery. 3 Saint-Julien gate from rue Saint-Julien gate, traces Rue d’Huisne, house frontage, Rue d’Huisne, grotesque Street frontage of Courtin de d’Huisne, first third of the of machicolations, and second quarter of the at the entrance to the Torsay mansion before the 20th century. the bell tower of Notre- 16th century (now demolished). cour de La Chaussumerie dormer windows were added in Dame-des-Marais. Photograph by Félix Martin- the 1870s. Drawing. Sabon, before 1897. Although military in Sarthe. The gate also marks the time. However, the alterations construction, Saint-Julien gate boundary between the historical mainly concerned the buildings also had a legal role as it was centre and the 19th and 20th overlooking the street. Some These areas were gradually time, it is much more horses to access the stables at well-preserved back buildings linked to the outside of symmetrical than older houses. the back of the house, the the place where the octroi* or created. In the 1870s, a city toll was paid. Its stairway was added by the monumental appearance was architect Darcy. At the same also an ostentatious century extensions. Barthélémy gate. On either side many houses, which are built on narrow plots. At the same of rue d’Huisne and further on, can be seen from the Petit Mail. the town via footbridges at the The front elevation has a line of coach door is a proof of the in rue Carnot, a few narrow The house at n°31 is a typical same time as the tree-lined large windows, emphasised by a nobility of the owner of the time, work was conducted on The main streets: Rue d’Huisne and Rue Carnot houses demonstrate their example. walks were planted, in the mixture of brick and stone. residence. Two wings were demonstration of the town’s the outside to transform the When you pass through Saint- medieval influences. The oldest, Despite the density of 18th century. The gambrel roof makes the erected at the back of the importance. This role was entrance to the town. A bridge Julien gate, you are using the late 15 century and early 16 construction, the buildings do reinforced by the abandonment was built, the ground was oldest route into the town. century, often comprise living not take up all the space behind of its military vocation after the levelled and the wooden ceiling Built in the Middle Ages, this accommodation overlooking siege of the town in 1590. It was replaced by a stone vault. road crossed the town from loft space easier to convert than building but only one remains a high roof. Nevertheless, the today. the street. A few passages Hôtel Courtin de Torsay, 50 Rue d’Huisne modernity of this house resides Renovation work was the street with a stairway at the remain, such as the Cour de la This huge dwelling is one of in its side passage with coach conducted between 1870 and th th was the town hall from 1703 to Saint-Julien gate is the most Mamers and Bonnétable via the back and with a passageway Chaussumerie, marked by a La Ferté’s rare examples of a door. Invented in the 17 1877 and the interior was 1907. It was altered inside and significant remains of the chaussée de Saint-Antoine and leading to a courtyard with a sculpted character bearing a late 17th century mansion century to enable coaches and altered. However, the front several new apertures were original ramparts and a listed towards Le Mans via rue second house at the back of the bag of lime on his shoulder. house*. Probably built for the elevation was left untouched building since 1875. Bourgneuf and Saint- plot, linked to the first by a Courtin family, magistrates at aside from the replacement of It symbolises the town of La gallery. These half-timber the parliament of Paris, it is old coats of arms by figurative Ferté-Bernard for the people of constructions were altered over particularly wide, in contrast to 4 th 5 Courtin de Torsay mansion, back Street frontage of Courtin de Torsay hotel Church of Notre-Dame-des- Church of Notre-Dame-des-Marais, Church of Notre-Dame- right, detail of the allegorical and sacristy of Notre-Dame-des-Marais, Marais, southern elevation, Ecce Homo window given by the des-Marais, chancel vault, painting on the ceiling, 17th and 19th former funeral chapel of Marie de Vabre, by P. Manguin, 1847. Heullant family, detail of donors, to completed around 1596. centuries. built between 1616 and 1624. the south of the chancel, around 1540 and 19th century. panels and the creation of two half of the 15th century. benefactors who rival for large dormer windows. It continued in the beginning of attention. They are omnipresent emphasised when the south door was transformed in Now owned by the town, this the Hundred Years war and did the 16th century with a new churches and has three levels in their coats of arms sculpted between the 15th and 16th conjunction with the building watering place for drinking house was home to the public not commence in earnest until chancel with three chapels with supported by flying buttresses. on the keystones or illustrated centuries. Indeed, although the of place Carnot. Since the water; the only source was library until 2013 and the after the period of troubles, flat vaults built between 1520 The décor on the south in prayer on one of the church’s layout and elevation remain 1990s, the mayor has initiated located close to rue de la passage leads to a pretty public around 1450. Economic and 1545. The building was elevation that faces towards the thirty-five stained glass characteristic of Gothic several restoration campaigns in Cougère, several hundred garden behind. prosperity and rising finished in 1596. The structure town is lavishly ornate, in a windows. architecture, the décor inspired partnership with the state and metres outside the town. populations encouraged royal is Gothic in style but the décor Renaissance style that mixes Finished in 1623 with the by antiquity is a remarkable local authorities. The petition was successful and The church of NotreDame-des-Marais and lordly donations added to changes as the construction religious evocations such as construction of a funeral chapel illustration of the Renaissance those of the up and coming evolves. The nave and the west Regina Coeli Laetare and Ave that was rapidly turned into a period. The promotion of the chapel of bourgeoisie. Nevertheless, door have purely Gothic Regina Coelorum on the sacristy, the church of Notre- Notre-Dame to parish church it took a century and a half to ornaments of a sobriety that parapet and the Italian in 1366 entailed rebuilding build a church the proportions contrasts to the chancel, which work. However, work was of which far exceed the needs copies the style of major delayed by issues surrounding of a population of no more of Julius Caesar and Cleopatra. 1840 by Prosper Mérimée. Bernard, a town capable of than a thousand. The outstanding character of Since then, it has been regularly installing public amenities with The work began on the nave the building stems in part from renovated. In the 19 century, encouragement from its and the tower in the second the emulation between its the Gothic style was inhabitants. 6 in 1483 a lead and wood pipeline was installed from the Thanks to its exceptional The fountain and rue Carnot Dame des Marais is an design, the building was In 1477, the inhabitants drew town. This installation ornamental repertoire combined illustration of the intellectual included on the first ever list of up a petition in protest that the demonstrates the prosperity with surprising secular images explosion of the pivotal period historic buildings drawn up in town did not have a public of the town of La Ferté- th source to the centre of the 7 Fountain on place Carnot and N°10, rue Carnot, detail Denis Béalet market hall, Place de la Lice and the market hall, Oak rafters restored in 2006-2007 church of Notre-Dame-des- of sculpted decor. ground floor glazing by Didier between 1914 and 1918. The current in the covered market. Alliou, Vitrail France, 2007. statue of Saint Louis is not in the niche Marais after the alterations to the southern door between 1843 above the central bay. and 1860. Watercolour, anonymous. The Market Hall, 15th and 16th century architecture, a sign of prosperity The current watering place, an octagonal shape with an obelisk in diamond granite from The layout of the building is as market hall was purchased by simple as its frontage is the town in 1810. The first floor was used as a local monumental. Some 20 metres Alençon, was installed in 1651 bygone times, the ground floors The market hall in La Ferté- the underpinning of the high, the main façade has two from the four sculptures on the courtroom until 1976 but the and is thought to have been of these buildings are used as Bernard was first mentioned in stonework, which was altered levels and is separated into gable. The main sculpture is of ground floor has not been used paid for by Robert Hoyau. shops while the upper floors are the late 14th century. The site in 1536 and instigated by three bays that coincide with Saint-Louis, the patron saint of as a market since 1899, when it In rue Carnot, formerly rue des private accommodation. opposite the entrance to the Antoinette de Bourbon, widow the interior divisions: three merchants and lawmen, which became a multi-purpose hall. Porches and rue Notre-Dame, The sculptures on the frontages castle was probably chosen by of Charles de Lorraine, lord of areas marked out by oak pillars is placed in a niche with It is still used as such today. visitors can admire the town’s indicate the trade formerly the lords and is a sign of the La Ferté. that rise from the base of the Renaissance décor above the The building was listed as a best preserved half-timber practised on the premises. town’s prosperity towards the As early as the Middle Ages, building and support the large windows. The gable is historic monument in 1973 and houses. Fortunately, local At n°7 and n°10, the bunches of end of the Middle Ages. the market hall had a dual impressive roof structure that framed with scions with two reopened to the public in April alignment plans have mostly grapes and grotesque characters The current building is the function, commercial and legal. can be seen from the first floor. lions that used to bear the coat 2008 following three years of spared their corbelled set around a traveller and a result of several stages of work, The ground floor was used for Being a very functional of arms of the de Lorraine restoration work. construction. Today, as in mermaid on the first floor the two main parts being the the sale of fabrics, grains and building, the market hall has family. The crest of the roof evoke a tavern. The house at roof structure, which according meat while the first floor was few ornamental features aside ends with a majestic eagle. n°10 also bears the remains of a to records began in 1477 and used as a courtroom to conduct Property of the Richelieu family representation of the stoning of seigniorial justice and for during the Revolution, the St-Stephen on its third floor. council meetings. 8 9 ad ed uP eti 5 d' H ail ne Ru e Ma min il Rue Town Hall Tour Lepelletier Th Rue Former St-Barthélémy gate Tour des Moulins FAUBOURG d S T- B A R T H É L É M Y Bé lar 2 Rue du Pr é Y 1 ér al de G U I L L OT I È R E S Ga ull e 5 Cour de la Chaussumerie 6 Hôtel Courtin de Torsay Neo-régionalist style house 7 Public garden Saint-Julien gate 8 Church of Notre-Damedes-Marais 2 Chapel of St-Lyphard 3 4 10 Former Le Mans gate FAUBOURG DES T H E O L D TOW N C E N T R E / CIRCUIT 1.5 KM, APPROXIMATELY 45 MINS Castle HIGH TOW N Place Ledru-Rollin Place des Grands Moulins BOURGNEUF Ancien moulin à foulon 1 Ho che s neuf r ie r rde bo Place de la Lice g Bo ur Rue vo i Former Paris gate U RT A M CO e Ru ed lfr Cour du Sauvage re u au Tour Porche eau Chât R. du ARD ge 11 n illo av t 3 nd ha c r a 10 ot rn Ca P du an e v er Ri lor e isn eF Hu Ru n uis L'H asse Imp Tour du Trésor R. ard L OWER B AIL EY ela eD Ru Rons 7 Av. du Gé n and Che 9 Former abattoirs F. Lep a Gr ctot c h e re Glossary S Rue de Paris S T- J U L I E N All é e Sain r t-Ro E O Viet e de Pierr 8 6 FAUBOURG Rue R ue Rue uis tM N Ru e de l' A b Rue D e n fe er Rue Place de la République rni 4 en Ga Former hospital (Hôtel-Dieu) R. Pr om Place St-Julien Rue Je an Co urtois Rue Viret te e l'Huisne Quai de la Républi qu iver Huisne R Avenue de 9 Fountain Trail 10 Half-timber houses Wall still visible 11 Market Hall Wall no longer exists Tourist office (departure) ¢ Place du Dr. Collière Art Nouveau: artistic movement active from the late 19th century in Europe, especially in architecture. The style used sometimes complex shapes inspired by the botanical world and banishes straight lines and angles. Boulevard: external fortification used as a passageway for artillery, a platform in front of the ramparts. By extension, the word has come to designate a wide road around a town, often planted with trees. Cannon-port: an opening in the wall, often circular in shape, beneath the loophole, enabling to project a cannon muzzle. Cannon-ports appeared in the 15th and 16th centuries Castellum: latin term for fortification. Rampart walk: path around the top of a fortified wall. Battlements: parapet with indentations or embrasures for shooting. Curtain wall: a connecting wall hung between two towers surrounding the courtyard. Portcullis: a heavy timber or metal grill that protected the castle entrance and could be raised or lowered from within the castle. Hôtel-Dieu: in the Middle Ages, this was the name given to hospitals managed by the church. The sick were cared for here and paupers or pilgrims were also given shelter. Mansion: a large, comfortable town house. Palissade: the fence surrounding the area between the castle and the base court or lower bailey, which was used for military exercise. Machicolations: projecting gallery on brackets, on outside of castle or towers, with holes in floor for dropping rocks, shooting, etc. Stone gallery of the same shape and emplacement and having the same purpose as the wooden galleries. Mall: the name derives from the mallet, a sort of hammer used in the game of Pall-Mall, which was very fashionable in the 17th and 18th centuries. By extension, mall refers to the treelined avenue used as a promenade and place to play the game. Octroi: place where the city toll on goods was paid. This was a local tax collected on various articles brought into a district for consumption. The king granted permission to levy local taxes. Oratory: place for prayer. Crédits photographiques © Sarthe departmental archives: Inside front cover, n°1 (PC/133/012, E dév), page 5, n°3 (Fonds d’Elbenne, carnets de Robert Charles, 7F79) © André Bouton Collection: Inside front cover n°2 (in André Pioger, Le Fertois aux XVIIe et XVIIIe siècles. Histoire économique et sociale. Le Mans, Imp. Monnoyer, 1973). © Médiathèque de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine: page 5, n°1 and page 7, n°1. © Ville du Mans, Médiathèque Louis Aragon: Cover and page 2, n°1 Lithography by Saint-Elme-Champ, 1826, published with Charles J.Richelet, in Voyage pittoresque dans le département de la Sarthe, Paris, 1829. © Maxence Augustin: page 7, n°3. © Yves Royer, Mairie de La FertéBernard: cover, page 2, n°2; page 3, n°3; page 4, n°2; page 5, n°2; page 6, n°2. © Jean-Philippe Berlose / CEMJIKA – Perche Sarthois 2012: page 1, n°1. Except when stated otherwise, photography by Perche sarthois. Old postcards from private collections. Main references Town archives, La Ferté-Bernard. Ministère de la Culture, Inventaire topographique du canton de La FertéBernard, Imprimerie nationale, 1983. Denis et Marc Béalet, Mémoire en images, La Ferté-Bernard, Alan Suton, 1996. Collective work / Société du Pays Fertois, La Ferté-Bernard d’hier et d’aujourd’hui, La Ferté-Bernard, 1999. Acknowledgements Mme Béalet, Sylvie Lemercier, François Mariani, René Jouhanneaux. English version published in 2014 by the Tourist Office in collaboration with the Perche Sarthois, 2,000 copies. French version by Le Pays d’art et d’histoire du Perche Sarthois. Translation Emma Paulay at Expressions Graphic design LM communiquer Graphic production J. Bulard / Teatime ~ 06 72 66 49 71 Printer Numériscan Published: March 2014 Site of the covered market in the 1930s. 11 Explore La Ferté-Bernard, follow the tour… This booklet is to help you make the most of your visit to La Ferté-Bernard and encloses some of the secrets of our town’s architecture. Lille We have designed this document with tourists in mind. The introduction sets the scene and explains how the town came about and grew over time. The tour is 1.5 km long and should take you about 45 minutes to complete. You will visit the historic town Paris Rennes Le Perche Sarthois centre, take in the main features of the La Ferté-Bernard and delve into the origins of the town. Le Mans Laval Vendôme Angers Nantes Tours The Perche Sarthois, a listed Pays d’art et d’histoire… The Pays d’art et d’histoire tourist guides and tourist offices would be happy to give you advice and information. Throughout the year, we organise events and guided tours for groups to tell you about our heritage. We can cater for individuals from spring to autumn. of France, some very close by: Le Mans, le Pays de la vallée du Loir, Vendôme, Laval, Le Pays de Coëvrons-Mayenne, Angers, Saumur, Fontenay-le-Comte, Guérande The Pays du Perche Sarthois is part of the network of The following towns and areas in the network are in the west national and Nantes. Villes et Pays d’art et d’histoire (towns and areas of artistic and historical interest) Useful information The Ministry of Culture and Communication awards the Pays d’art et d’histoire du Perche Sarthois 24 Avenue de Verdun, BP 90100, 72 404 La Ferté-Bernard cedex Tel. +33 (0)2 43 60 72 77 [email protected] www.perche-sarthois.fr title to towns or areas that make the most of their heritage. The label guarantees the competence of tourist guides, architecture and heritage staff as well as the quality of the events organised. The network includes 163 towns and areas throughout France. Tourist Office, La Ferté-Bernard 15 place de La Lice, 72400 La Ferté-Bernard Tel. +33 (0)2 43 71 21 21 [email protected] www.tourisme-lafertebernard.fr