Information on traveling through Kaliningrad region

Information on traveling through
the Kaliningrad region by bicycle
Dear friends, during the last eight years I’ve received hundreds of emails from
people who were interested in crossing the Kaliningrad region by bicycle following R1
route. Below you may find some practical advice and useful information which can help you
to plan and make your trip in a more comfortable way. I support this project on voluntary
basis so I’m trying to give you a weighted and independent opinion. Of course this
information could be more valuable if you send me your brief feedback reports on your
journey so we can improve this document together!
If after reading this some questions remain please do not hesitate to ask me. Despite I’m
traveling a lot outside of Kaliningrad region sometimes it is possible to catch me there, in
my second Motherland. So If you’d like to meet me personally and to ask your questions on
routes, sightseeing etc. you are welcome! I put my photo here so it could be easy to
recognize me. Every year I meet a number of cyclists crossing Kaliningrad region and
information exchange really help me to support this project.
Enjoy your adventure and welcome to Kaliningrad!
Kind regards, Oleg Alferov, Kaliningrad, Russia [email protected]
1. For crossing Russian border you need to have valid Russian visa. You may apply for it in the
nearest Russian consulate in your country. For Russian visa you need an invitation. You may
have confirmation that you've booked an hotel in Russia (and visa will be issued for days
indicated in confirmation letter) or if you have an invitation from private person who posses
Russian citizenship or public organization registered in Russia and then you may get visa for
period indicated in this invitation.
I was told that it is not a big problem to receive invitation and visa itself because some tourism
bureau or specialized companies are offering such services in most of EU countries. So you
must explore Internet or ask other cyclists on this issue. I’ve heard that in Poland and Germany
there are companies who even offered on-line services and sending ready visa to you by post at
the end.
In Kaliningrad I've found only one company who offer such services: FILAND LTD., Kaliningrad,
Kalinina sq. 23, +7 4012 646344, +7 4012 587148, [email protected]
http://filandtravel.ru/ I don't know them personally so I’m just sharing information as is.
During phone conversation they confirmed that they could assist to foreign travelers by issuing
invitation. Please contact them directly and ask for details. They speak English.
2. If you plan to travel to St. Petersburg through the Kaliningrad region you shall apply for a
double entry visa because in that case you will cross the Russian border twice.
3. Please note that at entrance to Russia for foreign citizen it is necessary to fill the migratory card
confirming the right to temporary stay in the country. You must receive blank of such card at
Russian border checkpoint. Migratory card must be filled in Russian but if you don’t speak
Russian – don’t worry! You allowed filling it by using Latin letters in accordance with data
indicated in your passport or other ID. You need to fill out both ‘A’ and ‘B’ parts of migratory
card. Then it must be stamped and the Board Guard Officer must take part ‘A’ and you will get
part ‘B’. Please keep it in safe place – you’ll be asked for it when leaving Russia. After arrival of
the foreign citizen on a residence (in many cases – hotel) he/she should be registered in terms
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of 7 working days. Registration can be done by inviting/hosting counterpart (i.e. private
individuals with Russian citizenship, hotels, public organizations invited person etc.). For more
information on registration issue please follow this link:
http://www.waytorussia.net/RussianVisa/Registration.html
and here:
http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/en/info/471/
Some people ask me how to register if they plan to live several days in tent. It is a problem as
your tent not posses exact post address and more important you stay not at Russian
inviting/hosting person. Unfortunately campsites I mentioned in this document also have no
addresses. So you need to find and later to indicate some existing address where you plan to
stay in Russia. However, for most of transit cyclists, it is not a problem at all because we have
72-hours rule – see below.
Important information: foreign citizens who have arrived to Russia for no more than three
working days i.e. 72 hours (for instance: transit from Poland to Lithuania or opposite direction)
are not a subject of registration! Holidays and weekends (Saturday and Sunday) are not
counted so, for instance, if you arrive in Kaliningrad on Wednesday you may stay in the region
until Sunday evening.
4. Important information: it is possible to obtain a short-term tourism visa (period of stay in
Kaliningrad region not longer than 72 hours) for citizens of Schengen countries, Great Britain,
Switzerland and Japan by applying directly to six tourism agencies in Kaliningrad:
1) ‘Anuta’ http://www.anuta.ru/ +7 4012 355-234
2) ‘Baltma’ http://www.baltma.ru/ [email protected] +7 4012 931-931
3) ‘Universalstroy’ http://www.uni-tour.ru/ +7 4012 777-770
4) ‘Brizen’ [email protected] (4012) 982-858
5) ‘Swena Tour’ http://www.swena.ru/ [email protected] +7 4012 533-354
6) ‘Nocturne’ http://www.nocturne.ru/ [email protected]
+7 4012 538-071
Some of websites in Russian only and others have an English and/or German part.
You may find more information on a website of Representation of the Ministry of Foreign
Affairs of Russia in Kaliningrad region:
http://kaliningrad.mid.ru/en_GB/web/kaliningrad_en
and here:
http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/en/info/471/
Please note that “visa at border” doesn’t mean that you just arrive and ask for it. Prior to your
journey you still need to contact one of seven agencies indicated above and ask them for details.
In Annex 1 below you may find a document I received from ‘Baltma’ agency. Please feel free to
ask them questions.
In case of “visa at border” solution I recommend you to enter Kaliningrad region from Poland at
Mamonovo checkpoint as an representative of Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs constantly
available there. If you plan to enter region from Lithuania it is better to travel via Nida to
Morskoye – there is no waiting line at border checkpoint and very beautiful landscapes! As far
as I know it’s not possible to obtain a “visa at border” there.
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5. As many of websites in Russia in national language only it could be a good idea to use a free
online translation services. It doesn’t give you a smooth translation but it surely will help you to
understand content of a webpage. There is a good Russian translation website:
http://www.online-translator.com/Default.aspx?prmtlang=en – you may choose from several
languages here.
6. When you arrive at the Polish/Russian border or Lithuanian/Russian border please do not
wait in a car line, just go to the Border checkpoint. Be confident and be polite. You have
right to cross border and nothing can stop you!
7. There are no problems crossing the Lithuanian-Russian border at Nida-Morskoe checkpoint in
both directions. If you go to Lithuania it’s better to cycle along the Curonian Spit as it is a
National Park with exciting nature (sandy dunes, pine-tree woods and interesting sightseeing
points) and asphalt road with moderate traffic.
8. Situation at the Polish/Russian border looks as follows:
a. The Mamonovo-Grzechotki border checkpoint (54025’14.40’’N 20003’57.00’’E) was
finally opened in late 2010 and fully operational.
b. The Goldap-Gusev border checkpoint (54020’31.00’’N 22017’54.00’’E) is opened for
cyclists and you may pass there freely, but it’s too far to east from the main road which
goes alongside of the Baltic Sea. Form the other hand it’s famous Rominta!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rominten For centuries it was a hunting wood of rulers of
East Preussen. It is really tiny place with low traffic but only problem is that area is
closed for visitors so you have rights for transit only. Below please find more
information on closed areas in Kaliningrad region.
c. The Mamonovo-Gronowo border checkpoint (54026’20.00’’N 19054’05.00’’E) is for cars,
buses and light trucks. There is no walking pass. Cyclists are eligible to pass there as
bicycle is considered to be a vehicle. It is worth to note that majority of cyclists want to
cross the Polish/Russian border exactly there because it’s a direct way to/from Gdansk
(or Elblag, or Frombork), Poland. Since 2006 the Russian Border Guards do let European
cyclists to pass this border freely. During last years I’ve no written evidences from
cyclists that any problems there with border crossing. Opposite people say to me that
they cross border smooth and easily.
d. The Bezledy-Bagrationovsk border checkpoint (54022’20.00’’N 20039’35.00’’E) is for
cars, buses and heavy trucks. It is used mainly for lorries so if there is no special need for
you to pass border there please try to avoid this checkpoint.
9. If you are somehow stuck at the Russian-Polish border please do not give up and consider it as
an adventure. Talking to Russian officials please be polite but insist on your intention to go to
Kaliningrad. If things get worth and you became refused you still may stop a proper light truck
or microbus and ask the driver to pick up you and your bike. It really works – you cross the
border in a vehicle and then in 100 meters you may get out of the vehicle and drive by yourself.
It is absolutely legal.
Note: you may be asked by the driver to pay small money.
Advise: ask Russian border officer to help you catching the vehicle. In that case you may save
your money and time. Practically there are no drivers at the border checkpoint who refuse to
border officer if he/she asks.
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But once again: there was no complains on border crossing during last five years. So
point 9 above is advice from very past of Kaliningrad (from period 2000-2005) but I
keep it here for unlikely possible situations. If you have some facts you had problems at
border please inform me on that.
10. There are some restricted areas in the Kaliningrad region (here is a info and a map in PDF:
http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/en/info/473/ ) so for avoidance of any problems you shall
answer to Russian officers at the border that you are going to the Kaliningrad city directly
(hotel “Baltica” camping for instance (54042’26.00’’N 20037’02.00’’E) http://baltica-hotel.ru/
+7 4012 353-507, 353-511 or another hotel which is booked for you). For your information:
“Baltica” hotel poses camping field which is suitable for mobile houses and tents. Toilet is for
free and available on the ground floor of the hotel. For shower and other facilities
arrangements please ask administrator. Reception phone: +7 4012 353400. From the other
hand “Baltica” is a bit far from city center so it is up to you to decide where you plan to stay.
Below you may find more information about hotels.
11. In year 2008 and 2009 number of cyclists have tried new way sailing from Sassnitz to Baltijsk
by ferry and then start cycling to Kaliningrad, Svetlogorsk, Zelenogradsk and to Nida. I’ve
received very positive comments from them so it was an alternative way to Kaliningrad. But in
2010 this connection was stopped and unfortunately we don’t have any operational ferry
line at the moment.
12. Please note that it is possible to set up tent in Yantarny (artificial lake situated close to the
Baltic Sea coastline – so called ‘Amber coast’) (54052’44.00’’N 19056’32.00’’E). Lake is very
clean and deep – it’s real pleasure to swim there. The place can be crowded in Summer time
because it’s popularity.
The ‘Demersus’ diving club is situated there. Phone: +7 (4012) 387811 [email protected]
website: http://demersus.ru/en/
They have toilet and summer shower, place for open fire and barbeque, security, night light,
sport tools, playground for kids and access to sandy beach. There are nice café and comfortable
toilet 100 meters away from the club. Parking for cars is available. Because ‘Demersus’ is more
diving club than campsite please ask them directly for possibility to stay as well as for prices.
Nearby to Yantarny lake and in close proximity to the Baltic sea you may find ‘Valterra’
campsite (Вальтерра in Russian). Map and phones are here: http://www.visitkaliningrad.ru/accomodation/263/ Pictures are here: http://vk.com/wal_terra
13. It also might be a good idea to spend your time in Yantarny (former Palmnicken) as it’s a place of
the biggest open excavation of amber in the World (54051’50.00’’N 19058’00.00’’E). According to
the statistics more than 90% of world’s amber deposit is situated there. There are the widest
sandy beaches of the Kaliningrad region and they have a restaurant situated directly on the beach
(54053’06.00’’N 19056’05.00’’E) – at this road cross (54052’47.10’’N 19056’06.86’’E) you shall
take left road (if you are going from the South) and drive down the hill.
14. If you want to stay overnight in your tent I can recommend you a very nice place directly at the
Baltic Sea – Vzmorye village (54056’50.00’’N 20001’20.00’’E). There is no official camping site
there but in summer time a lot of people visit this place because the road allows you to drive
your car or bicycle directly to the beach. (I can’t guarantee you that road still in good condition
but you may try at least). Some people stay there overnight and sleep in cars or tents. This place
is also considered as a sightseeing point (from the top of the hill).
15. Russians are very friendly and polite. There is no robbery on a road or in camping place but
please do not leave your things apart from you. Hide your mobile phone, photo camera or GPS
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device in your bag or in your pocket when you don’t use it. These are just reasonable security
measures suitable for any country in the world.
16. If you want to stay in Kaliningrad for a night I can suggest you to look at this hotel:
http://villa-severin.ru/
(54043’59.60’’N 20031’24.00’’E).
It's multilingual website of the very nice hotel situated in tiny park zone close to the city center.
Owner of this hotel is very reliable person and his target group of customers are foreigners.
Price range wide and starts from low-medium margin. It's up to you to choose small cheap
room or apartment. They have storage facilities for bicycles. Staff speaks foreign languages.
17. Another good guest house with reasonable prices is ‘Paraiso’, situated on Turgeneva str., 32A,
phone +7 4012 216-969, 955-447, http://hotelparaiso.ru/rus/ [email protected]
(54044’01.00’’N 20031’04.50’’E)
18. In this hotel in Kaliningrad city foreign cycling tourists stays:
http://www.goldenbay.ru (54041’50.14’’N 20030’30.70’’E) ‘Zolotaya Bukhta’ hotel is simple
and inexpensive. They allow you to keep your bicycle stored inside of hotel (as far as I know
they have separate room for that purpose). In last four years I saw a number of German cyclists
who stayed there and all of them were happy.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g298500-d2696375-ReviewsZolotaya_Bukhta_Golden_Bay-Kaliningrad_Kaliningrad_Oblast_Northwestern_District.html
19. In Kaliningrad city, you may rent some apartments. Contact person: Mr. Vitaly Gut
[email protected] phone: +7 4012 766101 mobile: +7 921 6164962
http://www.kaliningrad-arenda.ru/
20. Of course I’ve indicated only few hotels and we have hundreds of them. On Tripadviser.com and
Booking.com you definitely will find more opportunities. So it’s up to you to explore Internet
and to choose where you prefer to live.
21. There are websites which could help you to plan your trip are:
http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/ - general information about region;
http://www.v-kaliningrade.ru/ - hotels and general info on Kaliningrad city;
http://v-svetlogorsk.ru/ - same but it cover Svetlogorsk area;
http://v-zelenogradsk.ru/ - Zelenogradsk and close territories;
http://na-kosu.ru/ - helpful info on Kuronian Spit;
http://www.park-kosa.ru/ - info on Kuronian Spit (official website of National Park).
22. In the Kaliningrad region we have some agritourism guest houses (or so called Manor Houses)
which in many cases are cheaper than hotels and often it is possible to stay in your tent just
using farm facilities. Here you may find some helpful information:
http://www.agrotourism.narod.ru/ - in Russian, English and German language.
If you are going from Mamonovo through Kaliningrad to Nida you are crossing mainly
Zelenogradsky district so please search for accommodation directly there:
http://www.agrotourism.narod.ru/zelenogradsky.htm
http://www.kldtur.ru/rest/rural/ - another site on agritourism in Kaliningrad region.
23. In general you may sleep in your tent almost everywhere except for seven-kilometer border
zone, towns and villages. You may stay at lakes, in a wood or in a wild field.
24. Please note that the Curonian Spit (your way to/from Lithuania) is the National Park under
protection of UNESCO so it’s not allowed to set up your tent there and to use campfire. But
there are hotels and guest houses on this wonderful peninsula.
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25. At the entrance to the National Park (54058’33.00’’N 20031’15.00’’E) there is a checkpoint
where small ecological fee is charged from cars and motorcycles. Bicycles may pass there freely
and with no charge because it is ecology friendly transport. If some questions would be
addressed to you just say that you are on your transit way to Lithuania. But normally there are
no questions to cyclists and it is public area. For small money you may get a booklet with most
interesting places worth to visit. The Efa dune near Morskoe (55013’19.70’’N 20053’31.35’’E –
entrance road to Efa; 54013’16.00’’N 20054’25.00’’E – Efa dune itself) is a great sightseeing
point where you may watch the Curonian Gulf and the Baltic Sea at the same time. Please
believe me that its true pleasure to cycle alongside of the Curonian Spit as it is flat and the
traffic is low.
Please note, that there are two camping on Curonian Spit:
‘Lesnoye’ (55001’00.50’’N 20036’49.00’’E) http://camprus.ru/
‘Dunes’ (55002’44.00’’N 20040’34.00’’E) – I’m not sure is it possible to put your tent there, but
they offering some camp trailers.
26. Svetlogorsk and Zelenogradsk are resort areas so there are plenty of hotels there but in
summer time it’s difficult to book a hotel because too many visitors come from Russia and
abroad. In Svetlogorsk it worth to visit promenade (54056’47.30’’N 20009’15.85’’E) and look at
the Baltic Sea from the top of Elevator Tower (54056’45.00’’N 20009’00.00’’E). Try to find old
Water Supply Tower (54056’35.35’’N 20009’15.50’’E) – the symbol of Svetlogorsk. If you want
to buy some food especially when you leave Svetlogorsk going toward the Curonian Spit you
may find good grocery shop at the town limits (54055’53.00’’N 20009’57.00’’E). On the road
from Svetlogorsk to Zelenogradsk you may ride through Romanovo village where there are
ruins of a very old Teutonic Order church (54053’46.00’’N 20016’31.00’’E) and beautiful
landscapes with green hills and a lake.
27. There are no special roads for bikes in the Kaliningrad region so you must use the road for
cycling. Please keep eyes on vehicles going in your direction. Bright visible clothes and flash
lights on your bicycle may be a good idea.
28. I’ve got strange rumors that Kaliningrad is a hell for cyclists and neither by road nor by
sidewalk it’s allowed to cycle. It’s bullshit! In Russia we have rules similar to EU countries.
Bicycle is a transportation vehicle and it is allowed to use a standard road. It is not allowed to
use highways (autobahns). Cycling by roads is allowed for persons who at least 14 years old. If
you use a standard road you need to keep as right as possible. You not allowed to turn left if
road have more than 1 pass in each direction. In that case you need to walk through a road on
opposite side of it. It is allowed to use side of the road if it is not disturbing pedestrians. It is not
allowed to cycle by sidewalk. But in reality it is not a big problem and I’m pretty sure police
should be lenient to you (especially in zones with a high traffic). So in every case you may take
decision what is more safe – to take a road or a sidewalk.
29. On R1 website http://www.r1-radweginfo.de/ you may find maps with route that goes from
Kaliningrad to Zelenogradsk through Shatrovo lakes and Svetlogorsk. This route has low traffic.
Personally, I think that it worth to visit Yantarny as it is great place on Baltic coast.
In Annex 2 you may find 5 maps with recommended bicycle route through Kaliningrad region.
These maps was created by my German friend Detlef Kaden who hold consultations with me
during development of it. Detlef has visited me in Kaliningrad and together with his wife he
passed all thought the Kaliningrad part of the route. He published interesting reference book
for cyclists http://www.is-radweg.de/ It is not an advertising. Eventually this your personal
decision - to buy his product not, but I found in interesting and helpful. Besides maps and GPStracks there are good drawings and a route description.
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Of course if you are in hurry you can use other route which is old road from Kaliningrad to
Zelenogradsk (Kranz). Now we have a new highway going to that direction so traffic was
migrated from the old road to the new one. In case if transit cyclists are limited in time and
want to go from Kaliningrad to Curonian spit directly the fastest and more safe way is to use
this old road to North.
Please note that it is not allowed to cycle by a highway going from Kaliningrad to Zelenogradsk.
30. Not too many Russians speak foreign languages. Please take it into account. Try to learn a few
common Russian words. Young people in general speak some English.
If you have any questions related to the tourism in the Kaliningrad region try to visiting official
website website of the Regional Tourism Info Center:
http://www.visit-kaliningrad.ru/
This website is available in Russian and English.
If you need some information about Kaliningrad you may easily find it on this website which is
available also in English and German:
http://www.baltma.ru
31. The Tourism Information Center in Svetlogorsk (54056’26.12’’N 20008’58.30’’E) also can be
helpful to you (RU, DE, ENG):
http://www.svetlogorsk-tourism.ru/ru/
: +7 (40153) 22098 Fax: +7 (40153) 21763
Address: Svetlogorsk, K.Marx str., 7a
32. And last but not least: you may contact cyclists from the Kaliningrad region: ‘Koenig Bicycle
Team’. I’m pretty sure that those active people can recommend you good routes and will give
you good advices:
http://www.koenigbicycle.ru/en/main.php?cp=none
I recommend you to visit this website as it contain some articles in English, GPS tracks of
cycling routes supported by lots of pictures. So you may get impression what you can expect
deep inside of Kaliningrad region.
(!) Please note that some of GoogleEarth satellite photos are very old (3-4 years) and do not reflect
the current situation as the Kaliningrad region is developing rapidly.
Some words about a political situation in 2014. Crisis in Ukraine provoked general mistrust and
paranoia in mass media both in the West and in the East. However, truth is always somewhere in the
middle. Everyone believe in what he or she want to believe. I am not going to overpersuade anybody. I
support the bicycle project as a volunteer because I like idea of traveling by bicycle over the different
countries. If you are afraid to cross the Kaliningrad region by bicycle because possible aggression
from Russians, you are deeply mistaken. I don't see any changes in the relations between inhabitants
of the Kaliningrad region and foreigners who visiting our region. Our people divide a big-time politics
and the normal relations between ordinary people. Russians, at least in Kaliningrad, are still open for
tourists from the European Union and other foreign countries. We like your interest in Kaliningrad
and we are glad to see you here!
Wish you a good road, many impressions, positive thinking and strong health my dear
friends! Let the wind always blow in direction you are going and never against!
Kind regards, Oleg
Updated: 15/07/2014, Kaliningrad
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Annex 1. Visa at border.
BALTMA
Dear Partner,
Please, be informed about the formalities for visa on arrival for 72 hours. Maximum staying is 4 days 3
nights. Our company provides this type of visa only with our hotel booking. The citizens of the
following countries can get these visas:
All Shengen countries
Switzerland
United Kingdom
Japan
Visa cost is 75 eur per pax.
You need to provide the following to get this type of visa:
1) clear scanned passport copy
2) working address, name of the company, position, phone number
3) home address, phone number
ON ARRIVAL THE COLOURED PICTURE SIZE 3*4 IS REQUIRED.
Additional details:
1) The Ministry of Foreign affairs provides such visas at Kaliningrad airport of you arrive by plane
or if you use another kind of transport at 2 borders: Bagrationovsk and Mamonovo. You should
arrive on weekdays during working time 09.00.-22.00. (latest)
2) The transport for the officier of the Ministry to/from the airport/border should be paid by the
client. The cost is 35 eur.
BALTMA
pr-t Mira, 94
Kaliningrad,
Russia, 236000

(0112) 931-931
(0112) 951-893
 (0112) 211-840
e-mail: [email protected]
www.baltma.ru/
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Annex 2. Recommended bicycle route
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