forecast-11-snapshot

trend magazine by CPL Aromas
vol .11/ spring summer 2016
IMAGE BY DENIS DAVIDOF
CPL AROMAS & LONDON
COLLEGE OF FASHION 2012
A development focused trend magazine designed to inspire, educate and
indulge your creative side. With a focus on Spring Summer 2016, we report
on the main design trends in fashion and lifestyle that will influence new
product launches in the coming two years. With fragrance interpretation
from CPL Aromas and print, colour ways and design details per trend, we
help guide your development process and inspire your creative range planning within fragrance.
3
contents
Spring Summer 2016
6 Fashionably
Fragrant
TREND
GUIDE
A history of the relationship between CPL
Aromas and London College of Fashion
M
urous
ry.
while
sical arts, Cavalier is a member of
ntage
ciates
makelife’s finer qualities. Attene, whether it’s the clothes he wears
ps. A royal palette of scarlet, gold
aditonal aristocratic feel. Silk and
ence but relaxed fits hint at a
desire to challenge himself. A
man.
idriff styles are a must-have. Wrap stylings with statement belts or high fit
skirts and tops. Midi hem skirts and slim fit pants emphasise the Hollywood
hourglass silhouette which characterises this trend. Plunging necklines and
lace add sexiness but polka dots and gingham are a playful alternative.
TREND GUIDE
9 FINE FRAGRANCET LAUNCHES
Cats-eye sunglasses alongside a metal his
frame
belt and
high
heel huarache
san- even leisurewear is in silk or with stately
opulent
trend
is always
overdressed,
dals create a vintage VIP look, perfect
for a leading
actress.
embroidery.
A blazer
is essential, but cuts should be slightly relaxed to allow the
A look at some launches fragrancing this
wearer to fully express themselves. Mismatched patterns show confidence and goldAutumn Winter 2015/16 leaf motifs will only underline this. Paisley is particuarly popular.
FRAGRANCE
Ballet espadrilles continue the association with classic arts, high waist knitted extentions and a longer haircut styled with a headband will perfect a free spirited look
that demands to be center stage.
13 BPERFUMER’S TREASURE CHEST
CPL Aromas’ UK Perfumer Julie Pluchet
FRAGRANCE
delves into the floral majesty
of geranium.
old and sensual, these scents are perfectly
suited for the ballroom or the red carpet. Leading with fizzing citrus notes of bergamot, the
heart should tease with romantic accords of red
rose and liberal amounts of amber and musk.
The finale is a cocktail of sandalwood, sweet
n exquisite composition which salutes clasvanilla and commanding shades of leather. The
sic ingredients is vital in an effective fragrance.
perfect fragrance will move through the notes
Top notes of bergamot and coriander are
like acts in a ballet.
carefully considered. The heart should consist
(Clockwise) Valentino Donna by Valentino,
of self-assured Noir
notes
ofFemme
violet,
Pour
by pepper
Tom Ford and
and L’Absolu
by Narciso Rodriguez.
cardamom. Cedarwood
and suede make for a
verile base while a touch of tonka bean promises a romantic side. The fragrance may not be
groundbreaking but instead prefers to let the
wearer make the statements.
A
19 FOCUS ON - MADRID
Let the Spanish capital city’s sights and
flavours inspire your senses.
AT HOME
24
Your home should be your palace. Decadent
from fine DINING TO
fine FRAGRANCE
floral bouquets and rich spices should infuse
the room. Mediteranean citrus notes will lift the
fragrance and add elegance.
page
page
(Clockwise) Emblem Intense By Mont Blanc,
Sauvage by Christian Dior and Eau de
Cèdre by Giorgio Armani.
5
24
AT HOME
The story behind the collaboration between
Renaissance inspired furnishings will create a
Home
fragrance
should
smell luxurious and
CPL’schic
Christian
Provenzano
and
Jason
ambience, which
can be enhanced
with
soft chef
heritage. Smoky tobacco accords and
silk and velvet textiles. Floral motifsembrace
are a classic
Atherton
to create one inspiring
perfume.
chic finishes
floral notes allude to a ballroom banquet.
choice and statement-making metallic
Kenneth
Turner.
Oriental
woods andSoiree
tea candle
showbyworld
knowledge
add glamour and a regal feel. Colour
clashes
and an appreciation for the exotic.
show heart and confidence.
27 ss16 FEMALE & MALE TRENDS
Decor should be time-honoured, with nods to
classical and baroque forms. Silk and leather
are suitably affluent for textiles while fleur de
lis and paisly prints make for stately pattern
choices.
UK Marketing Manager Selena Thomas and
Sales & Marketing Executive Chris Pickett
inspire us with a glimpse at the future fashion,
colour, fragrance & style trends.
La Fumée candle by Miller Harris.
40 A LIFE IN FRAGRANCE
CPL Aromas’ UK Perfumer Celia Cirimbili
guides us through her life, passions and
inspirations.
page
24
EDITORS: Angela Stavrevska ([email protected]), Selena Thomas ([email protected]),
Natalie Pini ([email protected]) & Chris Pickett ([email protected])
CONTENT, DESIGN and ART DIRECTION: Natalie Pini & Chris Pickett CONTRIBUTING CONTENT: Selena Thomas, Natalie Pini, Chris Pickett, Julie Pluchet, Celia Cirimbili & Rosa Redondo
PRINTED IN THE UK BY: Kingfisher Press (www.kingfisher-press.com) QUERIES & INFORMATION: CPL Aromas UK Marketing Office,Telephone: +44 (0) 1279 717213
COVER IMAGE: from The London College of Fashion, 2009
FORECAST is created by the CPL Aromas UK Marketing team who would like to credit and say thanks to Sarah Byfield Riches, Tony Glenville and students at The London College of Fashion, Graham
Smith at Kingfisher Press, shutterstock.com, nowsmellthis.com, basenotes.com, Fragrances of the World, stylesight.com, fashionsnoops.com, trendwatching.com and freestockimages.org.
www.cplaromas.com
5
Perfumer’s
treasure
chest
// BY CPL AROMAS’ PERFUMER
JULIE PLUCHET
>>
13
BY JULIE PLUCHET
Geranium oil is very often compared to a cheap rose but
it is actually much more than that. Geranium oil is used
extensively in perfumes and it is so powerfull for its
price. Only 0.05% can change a fragrance.
T
he oil, obtained from the leaves , has a very strong rosy, minty, metallic and fruity smell. It gives more
body in the heart, it can enhance all the floral, agrestic and
fruity notes. I like using it for its fruity facette for fruits such
as pear, quince, red fruits, blackcurrant, litchi and other
tropical fruits.
This raw material has also been widely
used in Perfumery for Fougere fragrances
where it is a key ingredient in the classic
Fougere accord made of : bergamot,
lavender, geranium, tonka bean or coumarin, woody notes such as oakmoss, and
salicylates. But geranium is used less and
less in modern Fougere fragrances where
fragrances are more floral.
A History of Geranium
According to an old Muslim legend, the
rose geranium first grew when the Prophet
Mohammed hung his shirt on a plant to
dry in the sun. When he came to pick it
up again, he found it covered with brightly
coloured fragrant flowers.
Originating in South Africa, pelargoniums
were introduced in Europe in the 17th Century. During the 18th Century, hundreds
of these European hybrids were returned
to South Africa, and were later introduced
to Algeria, Australia, Comoros, Israel,
Madagascar, Morocco, Reunion Island and
North America. Much later, in the 1940’s,
pelargoniums were introduced to the Yunnan province of China.
Scented geraniums have been popular in
Above: Rembrandt
Europe since the 17th century and have
Peale, Portrait of Rubens
Peale with a Geranium,
been grown in America since the 18th.
1801.
They were very popular in the Victorian era,
they were used to scent fingerbowls, potpourris, perfumes and
jellies, and were stars in Victorian Valentine bouquets. Today
rose geraniums are an important crop, grown for their oil.
14
FROM FIELD TO BOTTLE
Contrary to what you would expect, the
geranium used in perfumery does not
belong to the Geranium genus but to the
Pelargonium genus of the Geraniaceae
family. It is very often incorrectly called
Pelargonium graveolens, its wild ancestor that was native to South Africa.
There are thousands of hybrids and
cultivars. But the principal species
used for the production of geranium
oil are cultivars between the species of
P. capitulum, P. gravens, P. graveolens,
P. asperum and P. odoratissimum,
depending on the region where it is
cultivated. In perfumery we use mainly
the qualities from Reunion Island called
Geranium Bourbon, but qualities of this
standard are also sourced from China,
Egypt, Madagascar and Morocco. It is a
multi-branched shrub that grows up to
one metre. The leaves are deeply incised
and are velvety and soft to the touch.
The flowers vary from pink-violet to almost white and the plant
flowers from August to
January.
The plant is harvested
4 –6 times a year. After
harvesting, the plant
is dried in the field for
between 1 and 5 days.
Then the essential oil is
extracted by steam
FINE DINING
FINE FRAGRANCE
It is common knowledge that your sense of taste is
heavily influenced by your sense of smell, so what
happens when two experts from the fragrance
world and the world of fine dining join forces in
this first alliance of its kind?…
I
n collaboration with culinary magazine FOUR and niche perfumery brand Boadicea The Victorious, CPL
Aromas’ global director of perfumery Christian Provenzano worked with Michelin starred Chef Jason Atherton to
create the premium perfume Vetiver Imperiale.
Christian says the challenge was “to incorporate as many
‘culinary ingredients’ as possible, for example: three types of
pink peppers, a touch of cardamom and rhubarb”.
“Working on this project with Jason was really exciting as
my great passion, aside from perfumery, is cooking, indeed
if I had not followed perfumery as my chosen career I would
certainly like to have become a chef. This collaboration shows
just how closely linked the sense of smell and the sense of
taste is as Jason and I were able to incorporate some of our
favourite ingredients into the mix producing a genuinely
innovative fragrance that can be appreciated by connoisseurs
of gourmet food and premium fragrances alike” explains
Christian. “There is a lot in common with a chef and a
perfumer. We just both create to please our customers in a
different way.”
Reflecting on whether this is a new area that will continue to
be explored within perfumery, David Crisp explains “Taste
definitely has a very similar memory pattern to smell. Those
in the know will recognise the signs. So there is a close
similarity to fine dining to fine fragrance, and Boadicea the
Victorious will be at the forefront of these developments”.
The fragrance, currently on sale in Harrods, priced at £245
“The idea came about from a chance meeting with Four
for a 100 ml bottle incorporates the new and unique CPL
Magazine in Dubai in late 2014” explains David Crisp,
Aromas technology Aromafusion that allows
co-owner of Boadicea The Victorious. “We
“this collaboration CPL perfumers to introduce unique captive
had placed an advert in the magazine, and
shows just how closely ingredients into its customers’ products ensurfound, by chance, that the CEOs of both
ing the creation is genuinely original as the
businesses were in the UAE at the same
linked the senses
time. So over coffee, and having a shared
are. We were able to molecules within the formula are unknown in
the fragrance industry.
love of fragrances, a concept was worked on
to create a series of fragrances with Michelin
starred chefs around the world. Jason
Atherton was the first partnership”.
incorporate some of
our favourite ingredients into the mix
producing a genuinely
innovative fragrance”
Christian Provenzano and Jason Atherton
are true creative talents. Christian, based in
Dubai, has a reputation in the fragrance industry for creating
original and highly successful award winning perfumes.
Jason’s restaurant, Pollen Street social, gained a Michelin star
during its opening year in 2011 and he has co-hosted the Sky
Living TV series My Kitchen Rules.
Boadicea the Victorious is a well know brand
within the upper echelons of the perfume
industry. Focusing on high quality perfumes
stocked in exclusive locations, such as Harrods and
Selfridges in London and
Neiman Marcus in the
US, the brand is the very
definition of niche.
“Our first launch was to be close to home, so a London based
chef was ideal. Through Four Magazine, we looked at their
list of introductions they could make, and Jason was our first
choice. Jason is currently one of the most high profile and in
demand chefs, and our joint objectives were easily matched.
It has turned out to be a winning strategy” says David, explaining how Jason came to be chosen.
The new creation combines key culinary ingredients such
as Cardamom, Pink Pepper and Rhubarb together with an
intoxicating blend of Citrus and woody notes that skilfully
showcase some of the common ingredients used in the world
of perfumery and cooking. Evocative of sultry southern
Italy in the peak of summer, Christian Provenzano created a
deeply memorable scent, designed for a sophisticated wearer.
Clockwise from top: Christian
Provenzano, David Crisp
and Jason Atherton.
25
MALE
&
FEMALE
FEMALE
& MALE
FASHION
FASHION
TRENDS
TRENDS
// A PREVIEW OF THE KEY STYLES FOR
SPRING/SUMMER
2016
// A preview
of the key
styles for
spring/summer 2016 >>
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