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Drew Chicone's Salty Fly Tying Chronicle
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Salty Fly Tying Chronicle
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February 2013
In This Issue:
"Virtues & Vises"
Finally a vise that lives up to its claims. Highlighting Dyna-King's Indexer Vise.
"Articles & Appearances"
"Fish or Foul"? my latest article in this month's issue of Fly & Light Tackle Angler
Feather Brain
Pre Order
Recently I partnered
with Stackpole Books
"Dave Johnson's Petti-Coat Streamer"
Learn how to tie Dave Johnson's legendary Marabou baitfish pattern. It's one fly you must have
in your box.
Welcome to Salty Fly Tying Chronicle. My goal is to spread the word about new or unique
materials, techniques and patterns that I come across each month.
Thanks for reading, and as always, let me know what you think. Tell Drew
Drew
Virtues & Vises
to publish my latest
work Feather Brain How to Design Better
Saltwater Flies. If you
are interested in a
signed copy of Feather
Brain, Click Here and I
will email you as soon
as it becomes available.
SFT Blog
Saltwater Fly Tying
Tips, Tricks, Tutorials &
More... Check Out the
Salty Fly Tying Blog
by Click Here
Let me start by saying that there are several high quality fly-tying vises on the market today,
each offering a wide range of options and features. Choosing a vise that fits your budget and
needs is difficult, especially if you haven’t had the chance to try before you buy. Over the past
couple of decades I have acquired quite an eclectic collection of vises ranging in everything from
manufacturer, shape, size and color. I have had the opportunity to tie on a wide variety of vises,
and I have come to realize that you get what you pay for, and before you buy you better do your
homework.
Logo Gear
One of the most touted differentiators amongst top-notch vise manufacturers is the size range of
hook that their vises jaws can grasp effectively. “Effectively” being the objective word here… In
my 27 years of experience, only a select few live up to these haughty claims. For me, a vise with
a huge size range is far less important than one that can effectively handle my average hook
size range. In 2003 I moved to Florida, and I haven’t tied on anything smaller than a size 6
since. The lion’s share of flies I tie for saltwater species fall in the 2-2/0 ranges, and with the
exception of bonefish flies or the occasional bazar custom order, that range do not vary too
much. Unfortunately this range seems to be right on the cusp of were most vises that “claim” to
handle saltwater hooks seem to lose their grip and until recently the frequent hook shimmy or
wrap unraveling hook slip seems to be inevitable. If your focus is cranking out larger saltwater
flies constructed on heavy wire hooks, then you would be better served buying a piece of
equipment that “Truly” can handle the 1/0-8/0 spectrum without spitting the hook across the room
after a few heavy handed wraps.
I just purchased a Dyna-King Indexer, which is basically a
souped-up variation of their popular Barracuda model. The
unique indexing systems enable the vise to rotate freely or
stay stationary at eight points located on the axis of
rotation. This is a very nice feature, but the real key and
fundamental advantage to a Dyna-King’s Kung Fu Grip for
the larger saltwater hooks is the notched jaw. Various sized
groves in the jaws allow the vise to clamp down on
behemoth hooks like a junkyard dog on a ham bone. The
widest grove at the back of the jaw works best for larger
ought size hooks, while the next smaller grove is better suited for securing the lower end of the
saltwater hook range. Smooth jaws are also available, but I can not stress the importance of the
notched jaws enough!
Shirts, Hats, Decal's,
Travel Mug's you name
it! For more colors,
styles & options check
out the Salty Fly Tying
Online Store
I’m ecstatic to say that I have finally discovered a vise that can back up what it promises. As a
newly converted follower I think it’s appropriate to say… Long live the King!
Articles & Appearances
If you're interested in learning some new tying techniques to keep your flies from fouling, check
out my latest article "Fish or Foul"? in this months issue of Fly & Light Tackle Angler. Pat Ford's
tarpon eating a fly sequence is amazing!
Fly & Light Tackle Angler is a bimonthly publication covering domestic and international fly and
light-tackle fishing. Our emphasis is on coastal saltwater and warm, freshwater fisheries with
occasional coverage of top coldwater destinations. As an app-based digital publication, FLTA
promises delivery of highly interactive content to mobile device readers.
Dave Johnson's Petti-Coat Streamer
Former Collieander Cup Winner, and TFO Advisory Staff Member Dave Johnson has
undoubtedly forgotten more about fly-fishing than most fly-rodders will ever know. His nearly
fifty-year career in the outdoor industry began in 1968 at the Indianapolis fly casters tying
class. It wasn’t until 1975 when a tier from Chicago had given him a dubbing twister (a paper
clip and brass tube) that he created his signature fly the Petti-Coat Streamer.
Living in Indiana most of Dave’s fly-fishing was for Bluegills, Smallmouth and Largemouth bass.
Living in Indiana most of Dave’s fly-fishing was for Bluegills, Smallmouth and Largemouth bass.
The Petti Coat streamer was originally designed for to target those species, however it’s track
record for taking countless species in both fresh and saltwater far surpassed exactions.
“Marabou has the most action in the water than any other material I know of. When the marabou
is placed and spread out in the loop, and twisted, (locked in the thread) then palmered forward
the marabou encompasses the body of the hook that is the reason I call it the Petti coat
streamer.” Said Dave.
When pulled through still water or in moving water the marabou tips move all around the hook,
the profile of the fly looks like a bait fish. When the fly is stopped, the hook sinks down the wing
flare up. Because of the marabou is twisted in the loop, the fly is imparted with a lifelike action,
yet the marabou does not foul. That is what makes the Petti coat so effective.
Materials
Hook: #6-6/0 Saltwater style hook (34007)
Thread: White 3/0 Mono Cord or Flat Waxed Nylon
Tail: Pearl Flashabou
Body: Mylar Tinsel or Flashabou, 15lb Mono
Wing: Marabou
Misc.: Dubbing Twister, Bulldog Clip
Adhesive: Clear Cure Goo Hydro
Step 1:
Start the thread at the eye of the hook and wrap back 1/8”. Turn the hook over (point up) and tie
in mono under side of hook. Wrap thread back over mono to just past hook point, turn hook
back over so it is point down. Place a half hitch to secure wraps. Tie in the tinsel at half hitch,
and wrap thread forward 3/16” from eye of hook, wrap tinsel forward to thread, tie off, cut excess
tinsel off.
Step 2:
Make an overhand knot with the mono (around) hook with tag end of mono towards the eye of
hook. Pull the mono up snug and wrap the mono forward to the thread, and tie off the mono.
Trim excess and add a thin coat of head cement over the mono body and thread wraps.
Step 3:
Wrap thread back 1/4” from hook eye, double two pieces of flashabou (pearl) towards back of
hook and tie in for the tail. Pull the bobbin down and make 4 to 5 “ loop with the thread. Make
two wraps around hook shank to complete the loop. Make one or two wraps around both legs of
the loop to close it. Advance your thread forward 3/16 from eye of the hook and lock it with a
half hitch.
Step 4:
Cut or pull the Marabou barbs from the quill, so that the length of marabou is about one and a
half to two and a half inches. Gather and secure the loose marabou barbs using some kind of
spring-loaded clip. A metal bulldog clip or office folder clip works well for this. Continue this
process until you have a pencil sized gather of marabou in the clip.
Step 5:
Take the marabou out of the clip hold the marabou with your left hand fingers, and trim the butt
ends so they are even.
Step 6:
Hook the thread loop with the dubbing twister, put the marabou into loop and pull twister towards
you until it is taught, this will close the loop. Evenly disperse the marabou within the loop,
leaving about 3/16” gap between the marabou and the shank of the hook. The butts or cut ends
of the marabou quills should protrude from the loop about a 1/16”.
Step 7:
Keeping pressure on the loop to keep it closed, rotate the twister clockwise about 30 to 40 turns.
Palmer the marabou-dubbing loop forward, blowing the marabou back toward the point with
each wrap. Once you reach the eye of the hook, tie off the loop and cut away the excess. Whip
finish, cut away the thread and apply a thin layer of cement head or clear cure goo hydro to
secure.
Thanks again for sharing, Dave!
Until next time, keep your wraps tight &
your feathers straight!
www.saltyflytying.com
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