Stockholm - Citibank

Citi Prestige
SM
Stockholm
P1
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CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
www.luxecityguides.com
SPANNING 14 ISLANDS OF
THE BEAUTIFUL SWEDISH
ARCHIPELAGO, STOCKHOLM
IS SPANGLED WITH
TREASURES, FROM HER
MEDIEVAL OLD TOWN TO
HER WEALTH OF MUSEUMS,
ART AND NATURE IN
ALL DIRECTIONS.
Add a world class dining scene and
vibrant culture, and you’re in for a real, if
rather expensive, treat.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
Easily walkable and divided into five main
districts, including high end shopping
in Östermalm and grittier, edgy retail in
Södermalm, you’re never far from the
famed Scandinavian design aesthetic
ranging from fashion to furniture and
everything in between.
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Blah blah
• Stockholm is an expensive city; get
over it, or stay home.
• The best time to visit is May-Sep;
July can be quiet when the city goes
en vacance and many of the smaller
shops, bars and cafés close. Winter
daylight can be scarce as hen’s
teeth, so pack some Vitamin D3!
• The Tunnelbana (T-bana) subway
system is quick and efficient; buy
the Stockholm Card (see Drab vs.
Fab) and you get bus, ferry and
admission to 80 museums
thrown in.
• 90 of the T-bana stations are
decorated by artists – grab the
free Art in the Stockholm Subway
booklet at stations.
• Lobster open season is Sep-Dec –
get that bib on...
• Pedestrians have right of way at
crossings, watch for the little green
man at lights, and don’t jaywalk.
• Currency: Swedish krona (SEK/kr)
• ARN to town: approx 40 mins /
500kr / €55 fixed price by cab;
20 mins / 240kr / €26 by Arlanda
Express one way.
• Taxis can be hailed on the street, or
call +46 8 150 000
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
• Unisex loos are quite common
across the city.
• Stockholm’s tap water is excellent,
say ‘bye’ to bottled.
• Alcohol (above 3.5% vol) sales are
limited to restos, bars,
and government-run
Systembolaget stores.
• Service is not included; round up to
the nearest krona or two for lunch,
and splash 10-20% for dinner.
• The international code for
Stockholm is +46 8, all local calls
begin with 08 and mobiles with 07.
To make an emergency call from a
cell phone dial 112.
• Many shops, services and
restaurants in the center operate
seven days a week, albeit with
limited Sun hours.
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LUXE INSIDER
Per Styregård
Ex-editor-in-chief of the Swedish Gourmet
Magazine for 4 years, Per is now editorin-chief of the exclusive Scandinavian
restaurant bible White Guide, wine critic
at the largest Swedish business daily
newspaper, Dagens Industri, and cofounder of the gastronomic debate forum,
Skafferiet (The Pantry). He is also part of
a group creating a new Swedish platform
for innovation through food at The Royal
Swedish Academy of Fine Arts.
www.styregard.com/blog
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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Per Styregård
1) WHAT’S THE BEST TIME OF
YEAR TO VISIT STOCKHOLM
AND WHY? ARE THERE ANY
SPECIAL EVENTS TO
LOOK OUT FOR?
Late spring to early fall is the most
exciting time to visit, given the
very long days and the pleasant
temperatures. However, if you’re not
afraid of winter, Stockholm is a true
beauty covered in snow.
2) WHERE DO YOU GO TO
UNWIND AND RELAX IN
STOCKHOLM? WHAT
MAKES IT SPECIAL?
A completely different kind of serenity
can be found in the Stockholm
archipelago during the fall, winter
and spring (the summer is busy out
there). The beauty and silence is
overwhelming. If you want to stay
in the city center, take a stroll over
the small bridge to the beautiful
little island Skeppsholmen where the
Museum of Modern Art is located.
www.modernamuseet.se
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
3) WHERE WOULD YOU GO
FOR A DATE NIGHT OUT
AND WHY?
5) WHERE IS THE BEST
COFFEE OR TEA IN
STOCKHOLM, AND WHY?
To ensure a tantalizing evening with
no embarrassing silence, plenty of
good quality food and drink, and great
service, I would reserve one of the
increasing numbers of chef’s tables/
kitchen bar seats available: Frantzén/
Lindeberg, Mathias Dahlgren,
Matbaren, Ekstedt, Vassa Eggen or
Djuret, all depending on budget.
For coffee, I’d do Drop Coffee at
Södermalm. Good selection of high
quality coffee and much knowledge.
Don’t ask for milk in your coffee. Tea
should be bought at the In The Mood
For Tea store at Odenplan, with its
high quality throughout the selection.
If you want to sit down for tea, choose
Chaikana in the old town.
www.frantzen-lindeberg.com
www.mathiasdahlgren.com
www.grandhotel.se
www.niklasekstedt.se
www.vassaeggen.com
www.djuret.se
www.dropcoffee.se
www.inthemoodfortea.se
www.chaikhana.se
4) WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL
DELICACY IN STOCKHOLM,
AND WHY AND WHERE IS IT
WORTH TRYING?
No one should leave town without
trying a löjromstoast with delicious
vendace roe from the northern
locality of Kalix, with sour cream and
finely chopped red onion accompanied
by a steaming cold micro-brewed beer
and a shot of aquavit.
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FRANTZÉN/LINDEBERG
MATBAREN
F12
Dining
Dining
Dining
With organic vegetables from their own
gardens, divine attention to detail and
passion in spades, this tiny, 2-Michstar modern gastroscenti eatery is a
laboratory of seasonal perfection and
rightly at the very forefront of Swedish
cuisine. Scoring one of the 18 seats is a
triumph in itself and then the
theatre begins.
Mr. Dahlgren’s Michelin-starred open
kitchen ‘bar’ dishes up Swedish/global
treats in a verve and vibey, relaxed
atmosphere that is a world away from
its decidedly more formal dining sister
next door. Afterwards, head next door
to the Lydmar Hotel for drinks in the
cozy library bar.
Through the cream theatre curtains
to sophisti-plated, mint-walled
heaven, where the stage is set for
immaculate dishes that deftly bridge
the chasm of fine but fun. Add an
excellent sommelier and you’ve got an
extremely stylish performance.
Lilla Nygatan 21 / Gamla Stan / T:
Gamla Stan / +46 8 20 85 80 / dinner
Tue-Sat / res up to one month
in advance
Grand Hotel Stockholm / Södra
Blasieholmshamnen 6 / Norrmalm / T:
Kungsträdgården / +46 8 679 35 84 /
lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat
Fredsgatan 12 / Norrmalm /
T: T-Centralen / +46 8 24 80 52 /
lunch & dinner Mon-Fri
dinner only Sat
www.f12.se
www.mathiasdahlgren.com
www.frantzen-lindeberg.com
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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PA&CO
KÅKEN
GONDOLEN
Dining
Bar
Bar
You’d be forgiven for walking right
past this unassuming, homely, woody
nook, but it’s the low-key ‘in’ spot
of choice for celebs and locals alike.
Scoring a table can be tricky, but the
deeply delicious and unpretentious
home-style menu of Swedish classics
redux is very much worth the wait.
Saunter into Restaurant 1900, walk right
through to the back, and you’ll find this
delightful, hidden speakeasy complete
with banquettes, clubby tracks, hearty
snacks and alfresco terrace plus the
city’s best negroni. Great fun, and the
comfort food menu is really
rather good.
Elevated high above the city, this
gantry bar with its swish, waist-coated
waiters, classic drinks menu and
jaw-dropping views of the city, wins
the sunset sip spot vote hands down,
but get there early as it’s fiendishly
popular with the city’s stylistas.
Riddargatan 8 / Östermalm /
T: Östermalmstorg / +46 8 611 08 45
dinner only / regulars can book but
visitors will need to kiss
their concierge
Restaurant 1900 / Regeringsgatan
66 / Norrmalm / T: Hötorget / +46
8 20 60 10 / 6pm-2am Wed-Sat
Stadsgården 6 / Södermalm / T:
Slussen / +46 8 641 70 90
closed Sun
www.eriks.se
www.kaken.r1900.set
www.paco.se
SVENSKT TENN
MODERNITY
Shopping
Shopping
STUREBADET
Spa
There are spas, and then there’s
Sturebadet. With more than 50
different services, plus pool, gym and
saunas, this beautifully refurbished
Art Nouveau and Moorish luxury
bathhouse and spa was Ms. Garbo’s
favorite, although it’s unlikely she was
ever alone here!
Sturegallerian 36 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 545 015 00
If ultra high quality, vintage
Scandinavian and European C.20th
design is your passion, you just
found the grand slam. With furniture,
lighting, ceramics, glass – the
beautifully curated selection is always
excellent and inspirational.
Sibyllegatan 6 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg / +46 8 20 80 25
For nearly 90 years it’s been the
default, first call for the acme
of Swedish interior design, bold,
exclusive fabrics, glass and chinaware.
Over 80% of the range is available
nowhere else.
Strandvägen 5 / T:
Östermalmstorg
+46 8 670 16 00 / daily
www.svenskttenn.se
www.modernity.se
www.sturebadet.se
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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VASA MUSEET
HALLWYLSKA MUSEET
LYDMAR
Activities
Activities
Hotel
Absolutely unmissable preserved
warship that tragically sank on her
maiden voyage in 1628. The fabulous
conservation and heart-tugging
personal belongings of the passengers
are fascinating, while the staggeringly
realistic facial reconstructions of
the crew are haunting and moving in
equal measure.
Wilhelmina von Hallwyl invested a
fortune on her vast, varied collection
of art and antiques, and kindly built
a palace to house it all. The Saturday
guided tour of this lovely palace
museum and collection also takes you
to the private 2/f bedrooms.
The perfectly placed epitome of
relaxed contemporary style and
friendly service, where the ambient,
book-lined lounge restaurant serves
as a happening bar and low-lit chilled
zone with Chesterfield sofas, and
quirksome drinks list attracting a laid
back, eclectic crowd. Great
breakfast too.
Galärvarvsvägen 14 / Djurgården
10am-5pm Mon-Sun,
10am-8pm Wed
Hamngatan 4 / Norrmalm / T:
Östermalmstorg / +46 8 402 30
99 / noon-4pm Tue & Thu-Sun,
till 7pm Wed
www.hallwylskamuseet.se
Södra Blasieholmshamnen 2 /
Norrmalm / T: Kungsträdgården
+46 8 22 31 60
www.lydmar.com
www.vasamuseet.se
ETT HEM
Hotel
Tired of traditional hotels? Try this
delectable 12-room home away from
home where guests are free to come
and go and do as they please, where
each of the individually designed rooms
is as comfy as it is beautiful, where
attention to detail like brass cocktail
cabinets and marble bathtubs abound,
and where free WiFi and an iPad for
personal use come as standard.
Sköldungagatan 2
Östermalm / T: Tekniska
Högskolan / +46 8 20 05 90
www.etthemstockholm.se
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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FAKE TAXIS
VÄSTERLÅNGGATAN
WINTER DAYLIGHT
Expensive and useless, caveat emptor.
Nightmare Old Town tourist street full of
cheap souvenirs.
Or rather lack of it – no wonder the
Swedes long for summer.
KRONA
Has nobody heard of the Euro?
SUNDAY OPENING HOURS
Make eating, drinking and shopping
rather difficult.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
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CULTURE CARD
BIKE HIRE
FOOD WISE
Standing in line outside the city’s major
galleries and museums is especially
tedious in freezing winter, but buy the
Stockholm Card and you can swan right
into more than 80 top attractions plus
free travel by public transport, and
there’s even a summer canal and
bike tour. Smart!
Sitting in traffic on exquisite (and all too
short) Swedish summer days is simply a
waste of valuable time, when you could
be on your bike and zipping around town
with the wind in your hair with
Bike Sweden.
Eating wonderful, seasonal and locally
sourced Swedish food is great, but so
much better when you understand all
about it, and how better than to take a
tasting tour with Mat Karavan and discover
a world of history, foraging, single cow
www.bikesweden.se
cheese, sea buckthorn and much,
much more.
www.visitstockholm.com
www.matkaravan.nu
HOME FROM HOME
OLD TOWN
Västerlånggatan, a nightmarishly busy
Old Town street full of tacky tourist
souvenirs, can easily put you off, but
persevere and discover the far prettier
and less touristic streets of the medieval
Old Town like Köpmangatan and
Tyska Brinken.
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
Staying in a perfectly pleasant, but
faceless chain hotel room will forever be a
thing of the past once you settle into one
of the 12 ultra-spoiling, exclusive suites at
the private house hotel Ett Hem.
www.etthemstockholm.se
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LUXE ITINERARY
Romance
First of all, it’s important to ensure you
are staying at the most romantic hotel
in the city and it doesn’t get better than
the deliriously luxey Ett Hem (see Drab vs.
Fab). Let’s start with a gentle stroll across
the charming Humlegården (the perfect
spot for a little summery picnic) and up
Humlegårdsgatan to the Östermalms
Saluhall for a fascinating totter around
the city’s finest foodhall. Next, a gentle
amble down Nybrogatan and right
into Hamngatan will bring you to the
wonderful Hallwylska Museet (see LUXE
Loves), a beautiful private house museum
stacked with treasures that transport you
back in time to the genteel C.19th. With
so much good food in this city, you’re
absolutely spoilt for choice, but one of our
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
absolute favorites is the elbow-to-elbow,
gloriously old-fashioned Bakfickan. This
no-res, marble-countered squeezebox is
an institution for its famed meatballs (the
best in the city) or try one of the vast and
super-fresh seafood salads – but be sure
to arrive before noon or you’ll queue. If
the queue is too long at Bakfickan simply
head back to Östermalms Saluhall and
position yourself on a bar stool at Lisa
Elmqvist for signature ‘skagen’ (delicious
shrimps on toast) and a glass of bubbles,
or in summer, you can also eat in the
little square outside at sister-tryster Lisa
på Torget. Down with you now to the
waterfront at Strandvägen and climb
aboard any of the many archipelago tour
boats – spring, summer or autumn, the
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glittering azulene sea and sylvan islands
are a joy to behold. Swedish people are
genetically unable to get through the day
without the concept of ‘Ta en fika’ – or
as we know it, coffee (or tea), cake and
klatsch. Make your way therefore to
Chaikhana in the old town Gamla Stan,
where this trig as a fig tea house boasts
200+ blends, and means you can amble
around the charming and romantic old
cobbled streets afterwards before settling
in for your candlelit supper à deux at
pretty Den Gyldene Freden, the city’s
oldest restaurant, dating from 1712.
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Style
Start your day at The Espresso Bar of
the Moderna Museet on the island of
Skeppsholmen, and of course don’t
forget the collection that contains works
by Dali, Matisse, Duchamp and Picasso
amongst many others. Now, walk over the
bridge to Norrmalm and you’ll pass the
lovely Lydmar Hotel (see LUXE Loves)
on your right, grab a cab here to nearby
Mäster Samuelsgatan. This little cross
street in the heart of the busy Östermalm
shopping district is home to the unique,
contemporary fragrance house Byredo,
where you’ll find beautifully packaged
scents, bodycare and room fragrance
with names like Pulp, Fantastic Man and
Loose Lips. Also on this street are cult
fashion brands Whyred and Fifth Avenue
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
Shoe Repair, and Zink Grill, the perfect
shop and flop all day diner for great
brunches, steaks and classic hearty fair.
With lunch completed, don’t waste a
second getting a cab and heading over to
edgy, gritty Södermalm, or SoFo as it’s
affectionately known. With an absolute
wealth of vintage, denim, interior stores
and kitsch, it makes for a wonderful
afternoon of browsing, don’t miss Lisa
Larsson, the reigning Queen of Vintage,
and of course Sweden’s signature hip
label Acne, and be sure to ta en fika at
Bageriet Urban Deli, the too cool for
school java spot. Returning back though
Gamla Stan, detour to Norrmälarstrand
in Kungsholmen and pull up a waterside
chair to watch the glorious sunset with a
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LUXE Loves
negroni in hand at Orangeriet. Stockholm
is a fabulous people-watching city, and
there are few places better to see and be
scene for drinks and supper than Riche
– this city fixture never ceases to attract
the chow n’ ciao crowd, and its two bars
Lilla and Stora Baren will keep you buzzy
and busy. With your dancing shoes firmly
on, simply quickstep up Birger Jarslgatan
and check your coat at Spybar, a stylepacked apartment featuring multiple,
themed rooms, but head for the club-inclub gentlemen’s lounger Gubbrummet
for maximum glam.
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Design
Stockholm’s interior design scene is
second to none, with an amazing array
of furniture, accessories, fashion and
lifestyle, and a great place to start
browsing is at Jacksons on Sibyllegatan
in Östermalm. This handsome edit of
C.20th post war furniture and design
comes with a satisfying sprinkle of
famous names and collectibles. Only a
few doors down, step into Asplund where
a homegrown interior design brand meets
international labels for mutual admiration
and long-term investment. Further
down Sibyllegatan is our favorite store
Modernity (see LUXE Loves), featuring
an irresistible mix of C.20th international
and Scandinavian design, with plenty of
iconic mint condition pieces to hanker
after. The little square next to Modernity
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
is Östermalmstorg, home in summer
to the lovely alfresco seafood perch
Lisa på Torget, or cross the square into
the foodhall Östermalms Saluhall for
lots more lunchtime options. No trip to
Stockholm could be complete without a
visit to the most famous design house
of all, Svenkst Tenn (see LUXE Loves).
Founded in 1924 and famous for its bold,
graphic prints and designs, the brand has
become an international icon amongst
interior designers, and its position on
Strandvägen is only minutes down
Sibyllegatan from the Östermalmstorg.
For design of a different kind, don’t miss
the awe-inspiring Vasa Museet (see LUXE
Loves). Walking through the door of this
purpose-built museum brings you face to
face with life in the C.17th in the guise of
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the astonishingly preserved remains of a
sunken warship and her contents. Coffee!
Ta en fika at daft and dotty Sturekattan,
a granny’s parlour fit-out, where the tea
and coffee refills are free, and then head
down nearby Nybrogatan to find Nordiska
Galleriet, a store packed with cleanlined, experimental one-offs, functional
furniture, lighting rugs and glass. Well,
after a day full of design shopping, you’re
going to need somewhere stylish to eat.
For swish and swagger you can’t beat F12
(see LUXE Loves), but for ultra-glamour
and design on a far grander scale, book
well ahead for a table at Operakällaren,
the Opera House’s exquisitely carved
and gilded salon, where the décor is as
sumptuous as the menu. Smaklig måltid!
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The Essentials
ROMANTIC ITINERARY
STYLISH ITINERARY
• Ett Hem
(see Drab vs Fab)
• Moderna Museet
Slupskjulsvägen 7 / Skeppsholmen
T: Kungsträdgården
+46 8 519 552 00
www.modernamuseet.se
• Bageriet Urban Deli
Skånegatan 76 / Södermalm
T: Medborgarplatsen
+46 8 599 091 90
www.urbandeli.org
• Lydmar Hotel
(see LUXE Loves)
• Orangeriet
Norrmälarstrand Kajplats 464 /
Kungsholmen / T: Rådhuset
+46 8 505 244 75
www.orangerietbar.se
• Östermalms Saluhall
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
www.saluhallen.com
• Hallwylska Museet
(see LUXE Loves)
• Bakfickan
Jakobs torg 12 / Norrmalm
T: Kungsträdgården
+46 8 676 58 00
www.eng.operakallaren.se
• Lisa Elmqvist
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 533 40 400
www.lisaelmqvist.se
• Lisa på Torget
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 553 404 50
www.lisapatorget.se
• Chaikhana
Svartmangatan 23 / T: Gamla stan
+46 8 244 500
www.chaikhana.se
• Den Gyldene Freden
Österlånggatan 51 / +46 8 24 97 60
www.gyldenefreden.se
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Intro
• Byredo
Mäster Samuelsgatan 10 / Norrmalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 525 026 10
www.byredo.com
• Whyred
Mäster Samuelsgatan 3 / Norrmalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 528 00 595
www.whyred.se
• Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair
1/F / Asogatan 115 / +46 8 21 48 08
www.vave-shoerepair.com
• Zink Grill
Bibilioteksgatan 5 / Norrmalm
T: Östermalmstorg / +46 8 611 42 22
www.zinkgrill.se
• Lisa Larsson
Bondegatan 48 / +46 8 643 61 53 /
Södermalm / T: Medborgarplatsen
1-6pm Tue-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat
www.lisalarssonsecondhand.com
• Riche
Birger Jarlsgatan 4 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 545 035 60
www.riche.se
• Lilla
Birger Jarlsgatan 4 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 545 035 60
www.riche.se
• Stora Baren
Birger Jarlsgatan 4 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 545 035 60
www.riche.se
• Gubbrummet
Birger Jarlsgatan 20
+46 8 54 50 37 01
• Acne
Torsgatan 53 / Odenplan / T: S:t
Eriksplan / +46 8 30 27 23
www.acnestudios.com
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The Essentials
DESIGN ITINERARY
• Jacksons
Sibyllegatan 53
+46 8 665 33 50
www.jacksons.se
• Östermalms Saluhall
Östermalmstorg / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
www.saluhallen.com
• Asplund
Sibyllegatan 31
+46 8 662 52 84
www.asplund.org
• Svenkst Tenn
(see LUXE Loves)
• Lisa på Torget
Östermalmstorg 2 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 553 404 50
www.lisapatorget.se
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
• F12
(see LUXE Loves)
• Vasa Museet
(see LUXE Loves)
• Modernity
(see LUXE Loves)
Intro
• Sturekattan
Riddargatan 4 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 611 16 12
www.sturekatten.se
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
• Nordiska Galleriet
Nybrogatan 11 / Östermalm
T: Östermalmstorg
+46 8 442 83 60
www.nordiskagalleriet.se
LUXE Loves
• Operakällaren
Jakobs torg 12 / Norrmalm / T:
Kungsträdgården / +46 8 676 58 00
www.eng.operakallaren.se
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
Your LUXE notes
P15
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LUXE STOCKHOLM
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries