destination : diving

Transcription

DESTINATION : DIVING
www.mar tiniquetourisme.com
0Couv_Martin-VA-2012.indd I
13/03/12 12:22
Underwater wonders
A true and generous nature, a huge diversity of sites,
an archeological heritage, very structured practice conditions, quality health equipment and, last but not
least, dynamic professional structures… Martinique
has all the assets to become a welcoming, safe and
inventive diving destination.
This is the Martinique Tourism Authority’s mission,
which, together with a strong local action to preserve
the marine environment, has been supporting for
many years the different actors of the diving sector
in Martinique in their course to structure their offer
and to promote, market and sell their product.
This close partnership allows us to present this brochure,
a useful and easy-to-read tool, created thanks to diving
aficionados who love Martinique and who wanted to bring
you along on an enchanted journey through a selection of
natural or historical spots, full of diversity, life and emotion.
We would like to thank the members of “Plongez en Martinique” for the quality of their welcome and their
kindness, as well as the Comassub and the Marouba and Novotel/Diamond hotels for their precious help
in the making of this guide.
0llCOUV-1_EditoSommaire_Martin-VA-2012.indd II
13/03/12 12:22
Contents
Travel
invitation
2 Lying in the middle of the
Lesser Antilles, where the sea
changes from turquoise to
indigo, Martinique is an
invitation to dive.
An island of infinite
possibilities
32 Sky, sun, sea… The
treasures of Martinique are
not limited to this lively trio, as
the island has many other
touristic assets!
Creole colors
12 Between the Atlantic Ocean
strength and Caribbean
gentleness, this land casts
its spell on travellers and
engraves colorful images
in their minds.
Your log book
information and
38 Useful
addresses to make your stay
on the “Île aux Fleurs”
unforgettable!
39 Diving clubs
and centers
Diving sites guide
18 There are about 40 sites
to discover the underwater
secrets of the island.
We picked 22 of them,
for their richness, variety
and complementarity.
Cover : F. Maxant
Translation p.2 : Anne Reynard
Other pages : Omar Mahdi
0llCOUV-1_EditoSommaire_Martin-VA-2012.indd 1
13/03/12 12:22
Travel
invitation
Travel invitation
Lying in the middle of the Lesser Antilles, where the color of
the sea changes from turquoise to indigo, Martinique is an
invitation to dive. Warm clear waters full of fish and worldwide
famous wrecks will be on the menu of your next vacation!
By Christophe Migeon, photos by Fred Maxant (except when indicated)
2-11_MartinCH1_VA-2012.indd 2
14/03/12 10:09
13/03/12 12:23
C. Migeon
Travel
invitation
Pleasure island
Martinique is a Caribbean dream: various landscapes and sceneries,
a joyful population who knows what partying means, the sea, changing
from turquoise to indigo and on which you always expect a swollen-sailed
brig to appear!
T
here was a time when, to incline colons to settle in Martinique, they
were told that “trees, there, were made of sugar and syrup was
flowing in rivers”. Slightly exagerated. But the Île aux Fleurs offer many
other pleasures, like the captivating aromas of its
creole gardens’ orange trees, the sweet smell of su- PROTECTION REQUIRED
gar cane in the morning, or the comfort of a ti- A 700km² “regional natural parc”
protects more than two-thirds of the
punch in the sunset lights. Sweetness of perfumes, island but there is no such thing for
sweetness of the weather, with an average tempe- the sea. Today, there are only eight
rature of 25°C (77 °F) likely to please the chilliest fishing reserves: these protected
areas build up fish population again
visitors and sweetness of names. Maps seems to for a couple of years.
sing a truly exotic toponymy: piton Crève-Cœur Three projects of marine protected
(Broken heart peak), Trou-au-Chat (Cat hole), areas could take things further.
The first one aims to preserve the
pointe Banane (Banana headland), La Jambette north caribbean coast towards le
(little leg), îlet du Loup-Garou (Werewolf islet), Brin Prêcheur, between la Perle and la
d’Amour (Love ply), Morne Fumée (smokin morne),
passe du Sans-Souci (carefree path)… A true travel invitation. Up north,
Above, Martinique deserves
its Île aux Fleurs knickname.
a luxuriant forest displays its tree ferns like some fancy underwear as the
Approaching the Rocher du
volcano pretends to be sleeping... On ash-colored beaches, where the very
Diamant.
first colons set foot, seduced by this large green coat full of life and water
The luxuriant forest displays its tree ferns like fancy
4
13/03/12 12:23
C. Migeon
Citadelle. The second would deal with the south
caribbean coastal zone, off Sainte-Luce between
pointe Pimentée and pointe Borgnèse, when the
third, including the Fort-de-France bay mangrove,
doesn’t concern divers. A regional natural reserve
– involving all these zones – is on its way, thanks to
the Regional Council of Martinique, which is also
supporting another project of sanctuary for
cetaceans in the French Antilles Exclusive
Economic Zone. On the Regional Nature Park
Martinique initiative, two extension plans in marine areas protected of the
Caravelle Nature Reserves and the Saint-Anne Îlets (including the Baie du
Trésor and the Baie des Anglais) are under way of study.
– and, wealth, who knows ? Cane, banana and pineapple fields are located in plains of the island heart. Down south, there is less and less water,
mornes dress themselves in scrubland and white-sanded beaches shelter
from the sun with coconut-trees as sunshades. All around, the sea…
y
77 °F all year: the waters
in Martinique are to dive for !
underwear as the volcano pretends to be sleeping....
5
13/03/12 12:23
Travel
invitation
Diving pleasures
Under the indigo surface of the Martinique coasts, faces light up behind masks.
The diving sites are so rich and varied that they make everyone happy, from beginners
to photographers or demanding biology-loving divers.
I
n old atlases, in the “Central America/Caribbean” chapter, you can
spot a little dot lost in the very middle of the Lesser Antilles arc,
the vastness of the Atlantic Ocean one one side, the huge Caribbean
sea lake on the other: no doubt the submarine depths have taken
advantage of this exceptional situation! In fact, from the very first
metres under the surface, divers can witness many striking things.
The water is clear and warm, the coral reef incredibly healthy and
fishes are all over the place! Many countries would love to be so
blessed. Of course, Martinique is not the best spot to wander about
in a shoal of hammerhead sharks or tickle manta rays’ stomachs! But
if very large fishes do not star here, there are still a lot of talented
Above, most dives take place
on the Caribbean coast.
Opposite, letf to right, the
well-preserved Nahoon wreck,
in the south part of the island.
A walk on a landing stage
(in the distance, the Rocher
du Diamant).
6
13/03/12 12:23
KEY MOMENTS OF MARTINIQUE DIVING
Q 1961: Creation of the first
associative club, CRESSMA.
Q 1972: Michel Météry
creates, within his hotel, the
Carib Scuba club, first
commercial diving club.
1973: Création of “Comité
Régional Martinique
plongée”.
Q
Q 1973: Michel Météry finds a
first wreck (La Gabrielle) in
Saint-Pierre harbour.
Q 1979: J.-Y. Cousteau and
the Calypso films the wrecks
for “Fortunes de Mer”,
a documentary movie.
Q 1987: Michel Pivette, from
Planète Bleue, creates the
first independent club
(outside hotel structures).
Q 1990: The GRAN (naval
archéology research group)
lists the wrecks of SaintPierre harbour... and finds
others!
Q 2004: Professional diving
gets its structure: the
“Plongez en Martinique”
grouping.
Q 2005: The commission
changes its name:
“Comité Martinique des
Sports SUBaquatiques”
(COMASSUB).
Q 2010: 40 associative or
professional structures offer
divers the underwater
exploration of more than
50 sites from north
to south.
THE MADININA PASS, FREE DIVING VOUCHER
of your diving gear. Perfect for
those who want to travel light!
No extra price for night or
wreck diving. You’ll only
have to book your dive, on
the day before in one of the
10 associated centers (read
page 39). Buy the pass on
www.plongez-enmartinique.
com or directly at one of the
participating centers.
C. Migeon
2004, the “Plongez en
Martinique” grouping
launches the first divevoucher for three, six or ten
coupons valid in any
member club. It is now
possible to dive at an
interesting rate, even if you
dive only once with each
center. One important point:
the price includes the hiring
13/03/12 12:24
C. Migeon
Travel
invitation
supporting actors who make every dive a wonderful technicolor entertainment: snappers in dense units, bright-colored angelfishes,
lazy turtles, long-toothed barracudas etc. The settings are also quite
remarkable: sponges, usually so shy, suddenly show off in quite exuberant shapes and sizes, funnel, barrel or fan, all in incongruous
colors. Voluptuous gorgonians, as if made of flesh, form impenetrable bushes where shy fishes come for shelter. Except a couple of
sites where anchoring has done some damages, corals are quite intact: unlike some others, fishermen in Martinique have always refused to use dynamite! As the island is standing on a narrow continental plateau, bottoms drop suddenly into the blue. Most sites are
close to the coast, accessible by boat in only a few minutes. You can
even fin your way to reach them from the coast.
The constant swell and strong
FAN WORDS
currents almost forbid access to
the Atlantic coast. Most dives
Thierry Devoos and his wife have been coming to
Martinique for ten years. A fanatic’s point of view:
take place along the Caribbean
“We come back every year for two to three weekside, upwind, in two distinctive
long stays, now more in the north where we
became friends with quite a lot of people. The
zones, quite different in terms
island is perfect for trekking as well as diving and
of atmosphere and underwater
people there are so warm and welcoming. In
landscapes. South of Fort-debetween two days dedicated to diving, you can go
for a hike around the volcano, and enjoy some
France bay, large coral plateaus
surrounded with white sand
are accessible at little depth, even if it doesn’t take a long finning
Above, left to right, a fire worm
on an incrusting sponge.
time to go down along a drop off. Typical Caribbean dive, in clear
A trumpet fish, quite a frequent
friendly waters. The north gained its reputation thanks to the Saintvisitor of coral reefs.
A grouper with its parasite “anilocra”.
Pierre wrecks, one of the largest marine museums in the world, with
Corals here are incredibly healthy: unlike others,
8
13/03/12 12:24
a good dozen of identified ships
between 10 and 85m – and there
must be a lot more there! But
there’s more to the north than
wrecks. The eccentricities of the
Montagne Pelée are still visible
under the surface and give dives
a rather original character. Extraordinary rocks, like La Perle at the entry of the canal de la Dominique, put their spell on visitors with their volcanic atmosphere,
mixing basaltic flows and black sandstrips. Don’t choose between
north or south: pick both!
extraordinary landscapes. Our favorite sites? I’ve
got at least half-a-dozen of spots, most of them
in the north of the island, like the Rocher de la
Perle or the canyons of Babodi, even if the diving
conditions are a bit tricky. In just one dive, you
can go down to 60m and then, quietly end your
desaturation in a coral garden with turtles! And
since I’m also a history freak, wrecks and ruins
of the city of Saint-Pierre, totally fascinate me.”
Above, brief encounter with
a turtle, the symbolic animal
of Martinique waters.
local fishermen have never used dynamite...
9
13/03/12 12:24
Travel
invitation
You’re welcome !
Efficient managing staffs, training courses and explorations with qualified instructors, a nearby
decompression chamber… Diving in Martinique has many assets.
Above, as soon as you’re 8, you
can enjoy the pleasures of diving
in Martinique!
Page 11, left to right, a little
moray under a featherstar.
Tania de Fabrique Saint-Tours,
President of the COMASSUB
management committee.
“T
here are about 40 diving centers on the island, most of them
belonging or registered by the FFESSM : five associative
clubs, thirteen affiliated structures, sixteen registered commercial
structures” specifies Tania de Fabrique Saint-Tours, the President of
COMASSUB management committee – Martinique-Guyane “region”
committee. COMASSUB, through its green section, is involved in the
training of instructors and coordinators whose knowledge of fauna
and flora make explorations more interesting and exciting. Some
centres already offer green dives. And efforts are being made to
develop handiplongée: there are half-a-dozen centres likely to
welcome disabled people. A lot of structures are not only affiliated to
the national federation but also to ANMP, PADI or NAUI in order to
offer diving activities to the majority of customers and members. You
will only need a medical certificate of less than a year, your level card
and your logbook. No formality required for first dives. In 2004,
10
13/03/12 12:24
C. Migeon
C. Migeon
twelve centres around the entire island created “Plongez en Martinique”. “The purpose is to make the dicovery of Martinique sites as
easy as possible by allowing people to dive with different centers
thanks to a voucher system (read “The Pass Madinina, free diving
voucher”, page 7).
AND DIVING
FOR ALL!
Martinique is
undoubtedly an
ideal destination for
families. In between
a tropical forest
trek, on the flanks
of a volcano, and
a day of sunbathing
on a white-sand
beach, diving there
is a true leisure
activity. Whether
you are a
demanding pro
Sheltered sites, ideal for
or an inquisitive
snorkeling or first dives.
beginner, there’s
room for everyone! Sites are close to
the coast, most of the time sheltered,
and ideal for first dives or snorkeling
in clear waters. Perfect learning
conditions for 8 year old kids who will
find an adapted equipment as well as
patient teachers.
11
13/03/12 12:24
Feu
d’artifice
12-17_Martin_Portfolio_Martin-VA-2012.indd 12
13/03/12 12:24
Creole colors
A land of diversity, between the Atlantic Ocean strength and
and
the Caribbean gentleness, Martinique casts its spell on travellers, engraving bright colorful images on their memories.
memories.
Photos by Fred Maxant and Christophe Migeon
13/03/12 12:24
From north to south, the water clarity is an
Above, a fisherman’s
boat anchored
in Sainte-Anne bay.
Opposite, clockwise: buried
in the sand, a lizard fish
waiting for its meal.
All around the rock
of La Perle, large gorgonians
sway with
the Caribbean swell.
Sheltered by an anemone,
a fragile Periclemenes
shrimp.
Page 15: everywhere in
Martinique waters, feather
stars stretch their arms
in search for food.
14
13/03/12 12:24
n
invitation
invitation to
to go
go u
under
nder tthe
he s
surface
urface
13/03/12 12:24
Underwater fauna and flora colors challe
Above, soldiers fishes
swimming tightly under
an overhang.
Opposite, clockwise:
children playing
in Sainte-Anne bay.
Back from fishing...
That’s why Martinique
is called Île aux Fleurs
(Island of Flowers).
Page 17, chromis, feather
stars and sponges around
the famous Rocher
du Diamant.
16
13/03/12 12:25
n
e
nge the terrestrial wildlife beauties
13/03/12 12:25
Turtles
Wreck
Architecture
Night
dives
Snorkeling
Pelagic fishes
Corals
18-31_Martin-Guide_VA-2012.indd 18
13/03/12 12:25
Ste-Marie
St-Pierre
Fort-de-France
Ste-Anne
Diving
sites guide
Spread between the Dominica channel and the Saint Lucia
channel, about 40 sites reveal the underwater secrets of
Martinique. We selected 22 of them, for their richness,
variety and complementarity. Most of them unfold along
the Caribbean shore in two zones, north and south of the
bay of Fort-de-France.
By Christophe Migeon - Photos by Fred Maxant (except when indicated)
13/03/12 12:25
Diving
sites guide. NORTH
Le Rocher
de la Perle
1
Le Récif
du sous-marin
2
Rock + drop offs.
Open Water Diver. Max. depth: 40-50m.
LOCATION: L’îlet de la Perle is a big chunk of basalte, floating at 800m from the Anse Couleuvre,
in the tempestuous waters of the Dominica
Channel. Dozens of brown boobies nest there
and have generously decorated the place with
their white droppings! 30km up north, the
shores of Dominica darken the horizon. La Perle
is the most northern diving site of Martinique.
ANCHORING: Forget anchoring! The ever-changing currents require a careful surface safety.
DIVING: La Perle is the northern equivalent of le
Diamant further down south: the vertical cliffs
dive undervater to become 25 to 40m dropoffs, colonized by a colorful and diversified
fauna. The isolation of the rock, as well as its
location, just at the canal entry, make the place
very attractive for shoals of pelagic fishes: barracudas, mostly in december and january, blue
runners by the north or west coast. Many fishes
(fusiliers, red snappers, parrot fishes, beacons)
swim along the rock.
Rock + caves. Open Water Diver.
Max. depth: 25m.
LOCATION: Quite a funny rock, halfway between
La Perle and the coast. It is shaped like the conning tower of a partly drowned submarine.
This mineral barrier is the remainer mount of a
basaltic flow from the Mount Pelée and spreads
on more than 100 kilometres.
ANCHORING: generally at the upper part of the
flow, at a depth of 5m.
DIVING: underwater, the conning tower becomes
a huge chunk of swiss cheese! Tunnels full of
hatchetfishes shoals run through the rock, uncountable crevices reveal their shy lodgers,
endless corridors of crawfish shelves open
onto dense forests of feather gorgonians. Diving becomes a dynamic game everyone can
play. The tunnel at the end of the flow, around
11m, is quite large and involves no difficulty
whatsoever. You’re more than likely to bump
into a sea turtle (a lot of Hawksbill turtles,
some green ones). Divers love the numerous
biotopes on this somehow small site which alternatively offer sponge-encrusted galleries
and swaying gardens of gorgonians.
OUR ADVICE: take a lamp to help you search in holes
and crevices. After anchoring, watch out for the current
speed, up to 3 knots.
OUR ADVICE: Before getting in the water, make a dive
planning. Dive groups equipped with dive markers can
drift away from the rock, further down in the blue, to try
and catch a shoal of blue runners or any other pelagic
fishes. But beware of the currents!
20
13/03/12 12:25
21
3
4
Ste-Marie
St-Pierre
Fort-de-France
3
La Citadelle
Rock + drop offs + sand banks.
Open Water Diver.
Max. depth: 60m.
LOCATION: In front of Le Bourg
du Prêcheur, and more specifically before the Abymes district, La Citadelle is a coral plateau, gradually sinking from 6
to 30m, then becoming a drop
off going down to 60m. A former lava flow
which will be the most southern diving site of
the marine reserve… when it’s there!
ANCHORING: anchor on the sand bank, at the
edge of a giant gorgonians forest. You can also
reach the site from the coast.
DIVING: the gentle starting slope halts at 30m to
become a terrace. Then, it suddenly goes further down to a second balcony and finally
sinks to 60m, giving the impression of strongholds on a fortified structure. Divers can explore three very different environments: a coral
plateau with abundant fauna (big parrot fishes,
crawfishes, mutton snapper, turtles…), steep
drop offs covered with sponges and gorgonians, black sand plateaus sprinkled with volcanic bombs.
OUR ADVICE: keep one eye on the sea to spot wahooes,
blue runners and big barracudas on patrol along the
drop off. With your other eye, spot volcanic activity signs.
And you don’t have to use both eyes at the same time!
Les jardins
du Prêcheur
4
Ste-Anne
Rock + small drop off + sand banks.
Open Water Diver. Max. depth: 35m.
LOCATION: in front of the southern side of the
Bourg du Prêcheur, three rocky massifs covered with very healthy corals sink towards the
open sea. From North to South, you can see
Les jardins, la Caye Maréchal and Le Mât: each
of these diving sites deserve to be explored at
least once.
ANCHORING: you can anchor not too far from the
beach, in about 5m deep water. You’ll have to
dig in the sand. The site is accessible directly
from the coast.
DIVING: exploration starts easy, not very deep (5
or 6m): there, a plateau covered with a nice garden of corals is circled with a rock slide facing
east and west and falling down to 35-40m. Eroded pinnacles emerge from the sandy bottom.
Inside this typical fringing coral reef, you will
find quiet niches that even-tempered turtles
appreciate.
Slightly further down south, La caye Maréchal
starts with a sand bank from 8 to 17m deep,
sprinkled with huge crater sponges, which then
becomes a 35 m deep wall. Finally, Le Mât, with
its two coral plateaus, separated by a 15-metre
sand bank, is the most southern part of this
extremely rich site.
OUR ADVICE : One dive is not enough for the three sites,
even if they’re close to each other! Take your time to
explore pinnacles as well as holes where turtles are likely to be admired.
21
13/03/12 12:26
Diving
sites guide. NORTH
Les canyons
de Babodi
5
Rock + drop offs +
sand plateau.
Open Water Diver.
Advanced OWD required if you
want to explore the bottom of the
canyon. Max. depth: 60m.
LOCATION: at less than
100 m from the coast, opposite the Bourg du
Prêcheur south gate, the
extravagant eruptions of
the Montagne Pelée have
generated
impressive
canyons, spreading more
than 50 metres towards
the open sea. These ravines, all perpendicular
to the coast, used to be
rivers beds at a time when the canyons were
above the water.
ANCHORING: on the sand bank, 7m deep where
the canyons start. Also accessible from the
coast.
DIVING: this is an “aerial” dive! Experienced divers can take the more-than-100-metres-long corridors and fall deep in the blue, inbetween walls
spiked with Cnidaria pennatulidae and yellow
scroll corals. The distance between the gorges
walls vary from 3 to 30 metres. As visibility is
excellent, you will be able to admire the magnificence of the whole place. On the sand bottom, stingrays come in search for molluscs and
shellfishes. “Bas Baudry” – changed into Babodi by Creole – is a former locality used as an
unauthorized landing stage by captains who
didn’t want to deal with the paperworks in
Saint-Pierre! Many encrusted anchors bear witness to that intense economic activity.
Le tombant
de Baradi
6
Rock + drop off. Open Water Diver (only for
the upper part). Max depth: 55m.
LOCATION: south of Bourg
du Prêcheur, in front of
Sainte-Philomène district.
You can start from the
coast, ask where Rico’s
house is. Once you’ve
found it, park your car in
the path that leads to the
sea.
ANCHORING: accessible from
the coast, but you can anchor on the sand, in 7 to 8
metre-deep water.
DIVING: After finning on 20 metres from the
coast, you will overlook a sand bank, suddenly
going down like a ski slope towards the open
sea. Huge rocky blocks, colonized by typical
carribean fauna (gorgonians, sponges, spiral
tube-worms), are the last remains of a long lava
flow. Further behind them, divers will by-pass
snappers shoals and reach a wall sinking down
to 55m. Covered with Cnidaria pennatulidae, it
is totally vertical and perpendicular to the coast.
OUR ADVICE: turn away from the wall from time to time
to take a look at the pelagic fishes occasionally
showing up. The place is one of the very few where you
can encounter eagle rays.
OUR ADVICE: keep a careful eye on your depth gauge!
The never-ending walls on each side can make you forget how deep you are. Descend inside the corridor but
ascend on the crests.
22
13/03/12 12:26
5
7 6
8
Ste-Marie
St-Pierre
Fort-de-France
Les sources
chaudes
7
Rock + drop off. Open Water Diver (only for
the upper part). Max depth: 50m.
LOCATION: halfway in between Le Prêcheur and
Saint-Pierre, at the most northern part of the
harbour, the Montagne Pelée has regurgitated
one of those flows divers are so keen on! The
south side is facing Saint-Pierre.
ANCHORING: accessible fom the coast, behind the
sand quarrying factory unit. No possible anchoring in this area.
DIVING: erosion has finally broken the former
lava flow to leave nothing but its hard cores.
Depending on what time of day it is, you can
either descend alongside the north face down
to 50 m or slide along the south face, which is
a lot steeper, down to 40 or 45m. The end of
this lava strip, former flow remains that sponges
and coral have stuck together, is only 50 metres
away from the coast. Current is generally pretty
strong there, which brings some animation:
dog teeth snappers make frequent appearances, as well as wahooes, rainbow runners, barracudas and, from time to time, an eagle ray! A
couple of years ago, local divers used to complete their dives in the midst of these strange
bubblings. Unfortunately, the cyclone Lenny in
1999 has put an end to those hydrothermic
feastings.
8
Le Biscaye
Wreck. Advanced OWD.
Max. Depth: 38m.
Ste-Anne
LOCATION: the wreck is right in the middle of the
harbour, the prow facing its “executioner”, la
Montagne Pelée. It lies flat on the sand, at the
bottom of a little drop off, its front at 34m, its
back at 38.
ANCHORING: anchorages are available for every
wreck of the harbour.
DIVING: Le Biscaye was a 43 metre-long threemaster schooner built in 1878. It sunk on its
way back from Saint-Pierre-et-Miquelon with a
load of 700 barrels of cod. For a long time, it
has been mistaken for another wreck, La Gabrielle. That’s why many local divers still call it
like that. Its hull has been strenghtened with
heavy copper plates: this metal armour has
preserved the original shape of the boat.
Among unidentified scraps, you can frequently
find big copper pegs that held the plates to the
flanks. But it is totally forbidden to take them
with you! A darkness-loving fauna has gathered around these decaying remains : soldier
fishes, crawfishes, moray eels… On the front,
towards the drop off, a whole huge anchor
with its encrusted stock lies on 30m.
OUR ADVICE: beware of the dangerously sharp copper
plates which are unfortunately loose. The decaying process is accelerating and even a simple clumsy finning
movement can start a storm of sediments (volcanic
ashes and rotten wood) which cloud your vision.
OUR ADVICE: in the Saint-Pierre harbour, there are only
rip currents. If you’re struggling with one of them, don’t
panic. No chance it will take you towards the open sea:
you will only drift along the coast.
23
13/03/12 12:26
Diving
sites guide. NORTH
9
Le Roraima
Wreck. Master Scuba Diver for a complete
exploration. Advanced OWD for a visit of the deck
at 45 m. Max. depth: 54m.
LOCATION: Le Roraima is
only 100 m away from Le
Biscaye, 700m from the
coast, in the middle of
the harbour. It lies
straight on its keel, parallel with the coast. The
prow lies at 49m, the
stern is at 54m
ANCHORING: anchorages
are available for every
DIVING: undoubtedly the
“star wreck” of SaintPierre – Le Tamaya is unfortunately beyond the
limits of leisure diving –
and at least the most
photogenic with its steel hull strangely covered
with a fleece of cnidarians.
The 110 metre-long steamboat, property of the
Quebec Line, burned for three days before finally sinking! The blast after the fire cleaned
the deck: the forecastle is gone, the chimney
and both masts are lying on the sand, on the
port side. The ship is broken in three: the main
anchoring is tied to the prow. By-pass the front
deck towards the first breach in the hull to explore the middle part (chimney hole, catheads,
boilers in the engine house). Don’t go too far
inside the wreck and always keep some blue in
your field of vision.
10
L’Amélie
Wreck. Open Water Diver.
Max. depth: 12m.
LOCATION: at last, a wreck for level 1 divers! The
ship, or what’s left of it, is scattered on a small
sand-bottomed posidonia bed, at a depth of
10 m, south of the harbour towards Anse Turin.
ANCHORING: anchorages are available for every
DIVING: the three-master boat sunk in 1902 but
the eruption of the Montagne Pelée has nothing
to do with its misfortune. Around January of
that year, l’Amélie ran onto a reef off SaintPierre and sank as it was being tugged by Le
Dahlia. For a long while, L’Amélie has been
mistaken for another boat, Le Résinier. It takes
a lot of imagination to identify the various remains that the little depth cannot shelter from
the swell. Yet, this dive is interesting because
of the effervescence of life, drawn to this hard
substrate as if it was a fruitful oasis lost in a
middle of a dry desert! Moray eels, hatchetfishes and soldier fishes conspire in dark corners
as tropical soles and garden eels seem to own
the sand bottom all around.
OUR ADVICE: the small depth should lead you to quietly
explore the whole area. The prow lies at 7 metres, 80 metres further north of the stern which you can easily identify: a huge sponge has colonized the upper part of the
rudder blade and seems to be hanging in the air!
OUR ADVICE: the water is clear and warm but don’t for-
get that pressure is the same as anywhere else! Don’t
stay longer than 20 minutes in order not to exceed a 15
minutes decompression stop. Those who already know
the wreck can descend alongside a second anchoring
tied to the middle part, by the second derrick. They will
then ascend by the front anchoring.
24
13/03/12 12:26
Ste-Marie
9
St-Pierre
10
11
Fort-de-France
Cap enragé
Ste-Anne
Rock + drop off. Open Water
Diver. Max. depth: 25m.
LOCATION: A little north of case-Pilote, the Cap
Enragé cliffs become a very rugged underwater landscape. This is the most southern part of
the northern diving sites!
ANCHORING: on the north part, known as “La Piscine” (The Swimming pool), for first dives.
Easy drift dives are possible in the south part
of Cap Enragé,
DIVING: excellent site for beginners, biologists
and photographers. Perfect for afternoon dives!
First dives take place in 2-metres depth where
sponges and small reef fishes can be admired.
This is a typical “aquarium dive”. At 15m, a
beautiful coral garden of feather gorgonians
gives way to a labyrinth of canyons, tunnels
and caves. Wandering about this rocky maze,
you will probably stumble accross a couple of
cuddling big angel fishes, a sleepy turtle or a
scorpionfish waiting for its prey. A lonely barracuda sometimes shows up to observe us,
funny human beings!
OUR ADVICE:
Antennariidae have been spotted on the
site, so you better get ready to find the very cheeky toadfish!
OF MAN
AND WRECKS
We meet him on Saint
Pierre harbour, in the
massive shade of the
Montagne Pelée. The
complexion of a seatanned sailor, piercing eyes under a
cloud of white hair Michel Météry, 71,
is eager to carry his block himself.
Now, he prefers to keep a low
profile, far from photographers
“to make some room for others”,
he says. His name is still attached
to the history of diving in Martinique:
he was the hotel Latitudes (now
hotel Marouba) and diving centre
manager at le Carbet, when a
fisherman came to him one morning
of February 1974 to help him find a
fishnet lost in the harbour. At 30m,
he’s struck by the vision of a boat
lying straight on its keel. Hearing the
news, Albert Falco joins him in his
dive. A solid and eternal friendship
was born! One after the other, the
boats blown away by the explosion
of May 8, l902 emerged from the
past. The Calypso anchored in SaintPierre in June 1979 as Michel was
finding the sunken treasures on
board of the “diving saucer”, under
the powerful
iodine
headlights.
At the moment,
he is fighting
for his marine
reserve project
and shows
deep sea
movies in
schools with
his buddy
Falco, in order
to awaken
consciences.
“Change can
only come
from the
youth”,
he insists.
C. Migeon
11
25
13/03/12 12:26
Diving
sites guide. SOUTH
12
Le Nahoon
Wreck. Advanced OWD.
Max. depth: 35m.
13
Le Cap Salomon
Diver for the upper part of the
plateau. Max. depth: 40m.
LOCATION: this very well preserved
recent wreck lies straight on its
keel between La Pointe de la Baleine and Cap Salomon.
ANCHORING: anchorage tied to the
prow.
DIVING: this former North Sea
Trinity House boat, a steel-hulled
35-metres long three-master sailing boat, was voluntarily sunk on
October 2, 1993, at the initiative
of Michel Pivette, from Planète
Bleue dive club. The mizzenmast
collapsed during the scuttling, the main mast
could not resist the cyclon Lenny in 1999. Only
the foremast stands up proudly – but for how
long ? –, down to 10 metres under the surface.
A quick finning over the desk leads you to the
superb, yet encrusted, helm. A descent towards
the stern will allow a quick glance at the rudder and the propellers before the compulsory
visit of the magnificent engine house. On your
way back to the prow, it’s impossible to miss
the windlass with its engine.
OUR ADVICE: before ascending, take some time to drift
away a little from the wreck, above the sand bottom, to
admire the whole boat figure as well as the yellowhead
jawfishes, dancing colorful pixies waving their fins over
their sheltering holes.
LOCATION: a coral plateau made of rocky blocks
extends the Cap Salomon north of La Grande
Anse d’Arlet.
ANCHORING: many possible anchorages at 10m
depending on where you dive.
DIVING: a lot of underwater trips are possible :
up north, in a quite little cove, “La Piscine”
(The Swimming pool) is ideal for strolls among
the rock slides covered in shimmering corals.
At 3m, a little cave that will bring some excitement for beginners! Further down south, here
are Salomon gardens, for a quiet colorful dive
at 25m.
OUR ADVICE: this site deserves many dives! For every
one of them, take some time to explore crevices in
search of spider crabs, study the feather stars barbles
or find shrimps or symbiotic gobies. All those fruitful
underwater activities only diving can provide!
26
13/03/12 12:26
Ste-Marie
St-Pierre
Fort-de-France
14
La Pointe Burgos
Les Grandes
Jorasses
15
Rock + drop off. Open Water Diver
for the plateau. Max. depth: 55m.
LOCATION: south of La Grande Anse d’Arlet, at
the foot of Morne Champagne, Pointe Burgos
sinks like a wedge in the Caribbean sea. Many
lava flows stretch under the surface to form a
beautiful setting where a lot of different fishes
gather.
ANCHORING : two possible anchorages in Burgos,
at 6 and 15m.
DIVING: many people think this is one of the
most beautiful dives of the southern part. Beginners as well as deep dives lovers can find
something out of it. Start in a depth of a couple
of metres only, on a coral plateau full of seabreams, mullets or sometimes batfishes shoals.
The slope stays gentle down to 35 or 40m then
sudenly becomes a wall falling down to 55m.
On the bottom, you might have time to flush
out a stingray.
OUR ADVICE: the current is sometimes strong but it has
some advantages: heavily swollen waters are always
full of life. Wahooes, skipjack tunas, big barracudas,
eagle rays can occasionally show up. A couple of years
ago, some were lucky enough to see a whale shark on
C. Migeon
the drop off. So, stay alert!
12
13
14
15
Ste-Anne
Rock + drop off. Advanced OWD.
Max. depth: 60m.
LOCATION: its a more off-shore extension of Burgos drop off. From the Abricot cove, you can
fin your way (in 15 minutes) to this line of successive terraced coral plateaus
ANCHORING: a 18 metres-deep anchorage allows
access to the drop off.
DIVING : when Michel Pivette discovered this spot
– by sheer luck – in 1988, the dynamic shape of
the place reminded him of the french Alps (Les
Grandes Jorasses are a famous mountain near
the Mont Blanc). At 12m, a white-sanded circus
contrasts with the dark crests. The clear water
allows a good overview of the underwater
show! Slide on the shimmering sides of these
lovely underwater mountains down to 60m. But
there will be no ski-tow on the way up!
Most of the time, currents are just as dynamic
as the relief: no place for beginners !
Only experienced divers will take an eyeful of
bigeyed blue runners and brief appearances of
wahooes or even eagle rays.
OUR ADVICE: when the current is too strong, dive on the
upper parts of the lava flows or in the whitesanded amphitheatre where it’s always pleasant to flush out a
stingray or a yellowhead jawfish.
27
13/03/12 12:26
Diving
sites guide. SOUTH
17 Le Banc
Le Rocher du
Diamant (The Diamond Rock) du Diamant
16
Rock + drop off. Open Water Diver.
Max. depth: 60m.
LOCATION: 2km from the
Pointe du Diamant,
Le Rocher du Diamant
controls the access to
the the Canal de SainteLucie. Its shape is quite
impressive with vertical
walls falling underwater
down to 15m.
ANCHORING: many available anchorages, two on
“La Piscine”, in the
northwestern part, the
others are all on the
west.
DIVING : This is the paragon of diving in Martinique! A “my thical
place”, “a classic”, “unreal scenery” : divers are lost for words when it
comes to describe the site! And the place undoubtedly deserves it.
For the usual dive (there are at least half a dozen alternative options within 20 metres!), leave
from “La Piscine”, a nothern cove sheltered from
the open sea swell, then alongside the rock on
your left, between 10 and 15m. After a second
passing under the rock, allowing some crayfishspotting, fin generously towards the rock to find
a remarkable vertical rift that splits it in two,
from 16 m to the surface, on a length of 30m.
Rays of light set the surface on fire in a cathedral-like atmosphere as the swell hits the rock
in a thunder booming noise. Unforgettable!
Rock + drop off. Advanced OWD.
Max. depth: 50m.
LOCATION: more than a nautical mile south-east
of le Rocher du Diamant, 6km from the coast,
this sec (a large rocky underwater relief) goes
up to 5 or 6m under the surface. The key, with
its side open towards Sainte-Anne, gives boats a
little sand bottom under turquoise water.
ANCHORING: there is an anchorage tied at 12 metres but considering the conditions, drift dives
are recommended.
DIVING: lost in the middle of the Canal de sainteLucie, le banc du Diamant is less visited than
its “cousin” le Rocher. The swell and currents
forbid the access and make the place an exclusive “level 2” diving site. But it’s worth the
shot as this shallow water is often a place
where big pelagic fishes love to gather.
The sec is rather small, just about three times
bigger than Le Rocher. You generally dive from
the southeastern extremity. There, you’ll find
shoals of blue runners and barracudas and also
many old beautiful anchors: one of them is
4 metres long and lies at 8m. Another one,
slightly smaller is found at 12m.
OUR ADVICE: start early (7:30 am) to avoid trade winds
(starting generally around 11:00 am). Later, the swell
would make water entry and recovery quite dangerous.
OUR ADVICE: you can also get dropped directly on the
rift. Then, leaving the rock on your left, explore the caves:
one of them has trapped a giant air bubble on its roof.
The most advanced divers can try the east side exploration, quite unusual because of the pretty strong swell.
28
13/03/12 12:26
Ste-Marie
St-Pierre
Fort-de-France
Le Tombant
de l’Église
18
La Grande
Caye de Sainte-Luce
19
16 18
17
Max. depth: 50m.
LOCATION: less than 1 kilometre from the coast,
in the middle of La Grande Anse Diamant, this
300-metre long coral plateau is a must: clear
water, numerous fishes, coulourful reefs.
ANCHORING: one anchorage at 15m.
DIVING: it starts easy with a small coral plateau
around 10-12m. An underwater garden to go
over your basics: trumpet fishes, porcupine
fishes, trunkfishes, ever-helpful cleaner shrimp!
At the corner of the pinnacles, dense groups of
grunts casually drift away from the divers bubbles. Inside the coral crevices, crawfishes colonies are strangely pyramid-shaped, as the
youngest ones are insolently perched upon
their forbears!
Small hawksbill turtles seem to fly above the
plateau which gently falls down to 35m. From
down there, up north, the wall becomes vertical and sinks down to 50m.
19
Ste-Anne
Diver. Max. depth: 35m.
LOCATION: a 200-metre long reef, just above the
water at low tide, one nautical mile in front of
Trou du Diable bay, east of Sainte-Luce
ANCHORING: many available anchorages, especially before the isolated danger mark which
pinpoints the site.
DIVING: parrot and butterfly fishes fly above a
coral garden, 5 or 6 metres deep, an ideal spot
for first dives. Corals there are remarkably big
and healthy: star corals, staghorn ferns, feather
gorgonians proudly show their shiny polyps.
The shallow water sinks gradually down to
35m. From the anchorage, it takes a good
15 minutes finning to reach the drop off. On
late afternoons, or when the weather is cloudy,
the sea becomes a theatre of exciting hunts : a
wahoo or a blue runner chasing a school of
bogue lanternfishes, suddenly exploding in a
scale supernova!
OUR ADVICE:
Be a nightbird! This sec is close to the
coast and the ideal spot for a night session. Crustaceans (crayfishes and slipper lobsters) are going out,
moray eels are on the prowl and squids are thrown into
a panic when caught in the light. You won’t feel the cold
as the water stays at the same temperature, day or night. And even if you did, a comforting drink is waiting
for you onboard!
OUR ADVICE: the slope is so rich it deserves two dives.
For the first one, photgraphers should not forget their
macrophotography lenses to shoot the rather frequent
sea slugs as well as to search locations for their second dive… but with wide-angle lenses this time!
29
13/03/12 12:26
Diving
sites guide. SOUTH
20 Les
Trois
Vallées
21 Le
Tombant
des Sorbes
Max. depth: 30m.
LOCATION: south of Sainte-Anne Bay, 1 nautical
mile off Pointe Dunkerque, the bottom drops
from 15 to 45m.
ANCHORING: above a little sailing boat wreck at a
depth of 13m.
DIVING: considering its location, this drop off is
a transition dive between the Caribbean Sea)
and the Atlantic Ocean. Alex Dobat, from NatiYabel Plongée called it “Le Tombant de MarieJo”, after the diver who discovered this spot a
couple of years ago. Descend on a tiny – and
already highly damaged – sailing boat wreck,
a consequence of the cyclon Dean in 2007.
You’ll have to fin westward for one or two minutes before finding a nice rocky slide going
down to 45m. Couples of big french angel fishes will then guide you to the mutton snappers
which give their name to the place (mutton
snapper, Lutjanus analis, is a local large reddish
snapper, with blue stripes under the eyes) or
dog teeth snappers (Lutjanus jocu, even bigger
snappers with a white triangle under the eyes).
OUR ADVICE: because of the Atlantic Ocean proximity, this
is the place where you‘ll have to keep your eyes wide open
to spot big pelagic fishes: eagle rays or wahooes, and, if
you’re lucky, leatherback turtles or mantas.
D. Deflorin
LOCATION: way more offshore than la Grande
Caye, this is a rectangular shallow water
formed with three coral plateaus and located
south of Sainte-Luce and west of Sainte-Anne.
ANCHORING: many available anchorages, including one at 15m.
DIVING: plateaus are separated by two 50-metre
wide sand strips, like two ski slopes hurtling
down to 25-30m. But don’t schuss them down!
Take your time to look at the queen conchs
slowly moving on the sand bottom. These venerable crustaceans are so appreciated in West
Indies cooking that they are now endangered.
A lot quicker than these lazy conchs, wahooes
and barracudas are on patrol a few metres
above the bottom in search for “sushis”! Some
divers even pretend they saw mantas and
leatherback turtles there! Here’s hoping…
Ascend quietly using one of the coral reefs,
among crater sponges and cnidarias.
Rock + drop off. Open Water Diver for the upper
part. Max. depth: 45m.
OUR ADVICE: While descending above the sand, you’ll
probably encounter yellowhead jawfishes, shy opisto-
gnathus which draw back tail first when divers swim a
bit too close. As the safety distance is around 2 metres,
lift up your masks for a better view ahead!
30
13/03/12 12:26
St-Pierre
Ste-Marie
Fort-de-France
D. Deflorin
Rock + seaweed bottom. Advanced OWD.
Max. depth: 25m.
20 Ste-Anne
21
22
LOCATION: south of Pointe des Salines, not far
from one of the most gorgeous beaches of
Martinique, 500 metres south west from
Cabrits islet, the bottom goes up to form a
sand plateau 20-22 mettres deep. Here begins the Atlantic Ocean!
ANCHORING: one available anchorage but this
is usually a drift dive.
DIVING: one of the very few “100% Atlantic”
dives! Random swell and currents conditions on this coast make the place impossible to dive into all year long. Alex Daubat,
from Nati Yabel Plongée, is one the very few
divers to venture on this side of the island.
Visibility is not exactly optimum! Brown
seaweeds appear suddenly, throwing their
dark coat over the whole bottom. The place
is also known to be a sanctuary for stingrays. Despite the small depth, only “level 2”
can dive here, because of the strong open
sea currents.
OUR ADVICE:
biology lovers and inquisitive divers
will appreciate this kind of dynamic dive which allows the observation of a totally different biotope.
Ideal at the end of your stay for a beautiful change
of scene after days of Caribbean dives.
ANCHORAGE STORIES
Ste-Anne
There are three distinctive
anchoring zones
C. Migeon
Domingo
D. Deflorin
22 Le
north area : from la perle to la
Pointe des Nègres. No anchorage
except some ends directly installed
on the wrecks. Those one are placed
and maintained by every dive clubs
and centres of the area.
Q
central area : from the Îlet Ramier
to the Diamant. Most of the sites
are equipped with “corps morts”
(literally “dead bodies”, fixed
anchorages), placed by local clubs.
But the majority of SMBs are missing
or under the surface: they are
regularlt taken out by fishermen
or even by... rival clubs!
Q
south area : south of Diamant.
All clubs here are equipped with
“corps morts” and anchorage buoys
are clearly visible.
Q
31
13/03/12 12:26
An island
of infinite
possibilities
32-37_Martin_MillePossibi_VA-2012.indd 32
13/03/12 12:26
Martinique will give you sky, sun and sea… But don’t think
the Île aux Fleurs (Island of Flowers) can be summed up
with these three words. Tropical forest treks, local food
tasting, total immersion in everyday life: the charm of the
place lies in its diversity!
By Christophe Migeon, photos by Fred Maxant (except when indicated)
The beautiful Saint-Pierre bay, overlooked by la Montagne Pelée. Many wrecks lie in northern Martinique waters.
13/03/12 12:26
C. Migeon
C. Migeon
L’île aux
mille possibilités
Wild coast of southern Martinique. Elegant feathers of sugar cane in bloom.
Trek
Under the volcano
Once you finished your diving session, trade your palms for
walking shoes and leave for terrestrial adventures along the wild
coves or in the heart of tropical forest luxuriance.
Walk along the canal dug by the slaves.
BEAUREGARD
IRRIGATION CHANNEL
This 3.5-kilometre long
narrow irrigation channel
was dug by slaves on a flank
of a morne , around 1760, to
supply Carbet and SaintPierre distilleries with water.
The walk to Fonds-SaintDenis takes two hours back
and forth exclusively on the
50 cm wide channel brink.
So you better be careful as
the path is full of sheer cliffs.
In the sludge of the canal,
orange crabs wave their big
claws like conductors and
bright-colored lizards run for
cover under the ferns. From
time to time, the curtain of
giant bamboos splits open to
reveal a serie of mornes and
greenery-covered peaks.
M
artinique is mostly blue
and green. Blue when you
dive, its green color will reveal itself along the 130-kilometer long
hiking tracks, underneath bamboos and tree ferns. Some “classic” paths will make you discover
An ideal landscape for any form of hiking. the fascinating nature of an “alternative” Martinique. To climb up the Mount Pelée, the impressive
1,397-metre high giant that blisters the northern part of the island, you’ll start from the Prêcheur side. If the weather conditions are good, it will take you two hours of walking and sweating. Your reward? A breathtaking panorama of the Atlantic Ocean
and the Caribbean Sea at once! One of the most beautiful paths
leaves from le Prêcheur to wind up for 20 km through the mornes
(small round-shaped mountains) at the foot of the Mount Pelée
and leads you, from rivers to waterfalls, to the village of GrandRivière, on the Canal de la Dominique. Still in this northern part,
full of trekking possiblities, Les Pitons du Carbet, a spectacular
group of five rocky peaks, can only be conquered by experienced
hikers. In the southern part of the island, La Trace des Caps,
along sandy beaches and desert coves, from Macabou to Anse
Caritan, requires less efforts, provided you’re equipped with an
efficient hat and a bottle full of water!
34
13/03/12 12:26
C. Migeon
Various liqueurs at Sainte-Anne’s market.
Taste
Sweet and sour
Cooking, in Martinique, has evolved at the same time as history
and population mixing. Probably the reason why its tastes and
flavors are uncountable! Here’s a quick survey of the island
main specialties.
C
aribbean, Europe, Africa, India: all these various places
play a part in the local gastronomy. A ti-punch as a warm
up : a tot of white rum, a bit of sugar cane and a zest of lemon.
Local fishermen or peasants used to serve it with a ti-nain morue,
a piece of grilled fish with boiled green bananas topped with
some sauce chien (litterally “dog sauce”), a complicated mixture
of shallots, garlic, tomatoes, lemon, oil and, last but not least, hot
pepper. Food would be so sad without the large hot pepper
family! There is the bonda manjak, very spicy and there’s the
vegetarian pepper, flavoured, but bearable for sensitive stomachs
and palates! Many other spices are used to
cook meat and fish in colombos (a mix of
curry, turmeric, black and creole peppers),
marinades (in lime juice, garlic and salt) or
blaffs (fishes poached in a spicy broth). Local
vegetables are of course well represented:
chayotes, yams, giromons (a cultivated squash)
or breadfruits are delicious boiled or in gratins. And if you still have a taste for dessert,
how about a coconut blancmange, a guava
robinson (a local cake) or tropical fruit ice
cream? But then, you will have to wait a little
Typical Martinique scenery.
if you still intend to go diving!
Creole cooking essential spices.
THERE IS RUM
AND RHUM…
Pirates were not the only
ones to enjoy the privilege of
this sugar cane eau-de-vie.
But there’s a distinction to be
made between industrial rum,
obtained from the distillation
of treacle, and agricultural
rhum, which is made with
distilled fermented sugar
cane juice. There are eleven
distilleries on the island,
seven of them still “active”,
which means that they are
still using their own
distillation column. Thanks to
their savoir-faire, rhums of
Martinique have been the only
brand in the world since 1996
to be awarded the AOC label
(guaranteeing the quality of
the product).
35
13/03/12 12:27
C. Migeon
L’île aux
mille possibilités
Ruins of Saint-Pierre, remains of the eruption, in 1902. Saint-Jacques church, at le Carbet.
Visit
SAINT-PIERRE,
THE MARTYRED CITY
Stone memory
Until May 8, 1902, SaintPierre, also known as
the Little Paris or West Indies
Queen was undoubtedly the
economic and cultural capital
city of Martinique. With its
cathedral, and trolley car,
its 800-seat theatre, its 13
fashion stores and 5 hats
dealers, Saint-Pierre was
creole elites’ and passing
sailors’ favorite. But on that
morning, the Mount Pelée
decided to end that prosperity
and threw clouds of ashes
and hot gases on the city.
28.000 died. No survivors
except two, the shoemaker
Compère and Cyparis,
a drunkard who had been
sent to jail to “sleep it off”!
Forts, churches, plantation houses, ruins or sugar refineries buried
under ashes: Martinique is an island with a rather hectic history.
C. Migeon
S
Saint-Pierre, at the foot of the Montagne Pelée.
ince Belain d’Esnambuc set foot on the Martinique soil, in
1635, officially starting the french colonization era, stones
have kept the memory of the men who used them to raise the
buildings which are now the witnesses of History. The centre of
Fort-de-France, starting point of every discovery to be made on
the island, display, on a rather small surface, some of the most
representative buildings of the colonial architecture: the SaintLouis cathedral, finished in 1895, or the Schoelcher library,
shipped piece by piece from Paris to be rebuilt in 1893. More ancient, the strongholds, battlements and walls of the Fort SaintLouis have protected the city since the 17th century. All around,
other pieces of the coastal fortification devices, such as Forts Desaix or Tartenson, are beautiful examples of military architecture
of the 18th century. Spread inland in the countryside, majestic colonial houses of former sugar plantations,
like the Clément, Latouche or Leyritz “lodges”, give visitors information on famous
planters’ life. They are often built at the top
of a morne, at the end of an alley planted
with bougainvilleas. Rocking chairs sway
under porches, in the trade wind’s coolness.
Towards les Trois-Îlets, the Pagerie plantation and its sugar house’s ruins keep alive
The kind of distinctive
the memory of Joséphine de Beauharnais,
discovery you are likely
to make when hiking.
empress-to-be, who was born there in 1763.
36
13/03/12 12:27
C. Migeon
D. Deflorin
Carnival, a key-moment on the island.
Listen
Sun songs
Few places in the world are so full of music and dance all year
long. So, turn up the volume and let your hips take over!
W
hat would Martinique look like without music and dance?
Notes and rythms echo old biguines, kalenda, bèlè and
calypso that used to soothe, for a night, the slaves’ sufferings.
Drums, maracas, flute and accordion were the first instruments
to beat time in the sugar cane fields and gave the different musical styles their originality: on the bus or at the supermarket, a
flow of sparkling notes fall from loudspeakers, irresistibly inviting bodies to move or even to coller-serrer (really tight sensual
dance). Soulzouk, raggamuffin, zouk love or zouk métal: there
are as many styles as firecrackers on a Carnival day! Probably
among the most important days of the year, from the friday after
Epiphany to Ash wednesday, when King Vaval is burned, hips
will roll in step as brass bands fill the air with their sounds.
Unreal characters on
marching floats, fever
spreads on the streets
full of music that won’t
stop until Vaval is
reduced to ashes! The
crowd will then cry over
the
dead,
shouting
“Vaval, ca nou fait ou ka
kité nou?” (Vaval, what
have we done for you to
A moment of joy. leave us?).
In the distance, the Diamond Rock.
THE CHANTÉ NWEL
There was a time, in the
french coutryside, when
people used to gather just
before Christmas to sing
carols, with family or
neighbours, to celebrate the
birth of Jesus. Inhabitants of
Martinique have kept this
noble habit, adapting it to
their customs. Nowadays,
crowds gather around bands
of Chanté Nwel and sing
along chants but in slightly
different versions from the
originals! They are now
mixed with biguines or zouk,
include a creole chorus and
some daring verses which
could make Virgin Mary
blush, have been added.
Every year, Santa gets
a bit hotter…
37
14/03/12 10:10
C. Migeon
Your log book
HOW TO
GET THERE
About 10 airlines serve
Martinique from major
cities worldwide :
- from France, Air
Caraïbes, Air France or
Corsairfly :
- from America, Air
Canada and American
Eagle will fly you to
Martinique via San Juan
(Puerto Rico)
all year long, as the
average temperature is
around 28 °C (82 °F).
LANGUAGES
French is the official
language but creole is
spoken everywhere.
It comes from french,
african dialects, some
caribbean words as well
as spanish and
portuguese!
TIME DIFFERENCE
FORMALITIES
+ 1 h from New York
(winter)
+ 4 h from Los Angeles
(winter)
Valid ID or passport for
EU members. Passport
for others.
SEASONALITY
No vaccination
necessary. Mosquito
spray recommended even
if there is no malaria
there.
The wet saison, or
“hivernage” (wintering),
lasts from June to
November (some heavy
showers!), the dry season
from December to May.
Then, weather is
gorgeous and stable,
with regular trade winds.
April, May and June are
the best “diving months”
but you can actually dive
VACCINATION/HEALTH
SAFETY
Clear and warm water,
good visibility, drop offs
are full of underwater life
and time passes way too
fast. Suddenly, your dive
computer (remember ?
TOUR GUIDE
Q
THE CARNIVAL
In February, Martinique gets wild for the five-day
long Carnival. Endless feastings and processions
take over the island on the sunday before Ash
Wednesday. Inhabitants, dressed in colorful
costumes, march through Fort-de-France, beating
drums as the zouk music fills the tropical nights.
Q
LE FESTIVAL DU CRABE DE LA PINCE D’OR
Easter Monday, in Grand-Rivière, in the north of
the island, the traditional crab festival offers lots
of entertaining activities, including the best crab
matoutou (spicy crab stew) contest: it takes place
on the river banks and is open to non-professional
chefs.
Q
LE TOUR DES YOLES RONDES
End of July, time for the most important French
Antilles sport competition. During the 26th issue,
in summer 2010, and for a whole week, about 20
competitors will run a team race all around
Martinique on yoles rondes, small boats with no
keel, ballast, drift or rudder! Team members must
be strong and have a very good sailing skills.
Each stage brings a lot of animation along the
quays.
that thing on your wrist!)
tells you that you’be been
wandering about at 40m
for 25 minutes, and you
have 20 minutes deco
stop as the pressure
gauge points 50bars.
So watch your depth,
especially on successive
afternoon dives.
ACCOMODATION
A whole range of
accomodation is
available, from little cosy
inns to internationally
known 4-star: hotels,
self-catering cottages,
countryside inns, family
vacation-villages,
furnished apartments.
38
38-40_Martin_Pratique_VA-2012.indd 38
13/03/12 12:28
C. Migeon
F. Maxant
F. Maxant
Dive center directory
“PLONGEZ EN
MARTINIQUE”
MEMBERS
Professional diving centers
federation
www.plongezenmartinique.com
[email protected]
ACQUASUD
Pointe de la Cherry,
97223 Le Diamant ;
tel. 05 96 76 51 01 ;
www.acquasud.com ;
[email protected]
Q ALIOTIS PLONGEE
Batiment Dubonet, appt
158, Marina pointe du bout,
97229 Trois-Ilets.
Responsable : Sophie.
www.aliotis-plongée.com ;
[email protected]
Q ANTILLLES SUB DIAMOND ROCK
C/O Hôtel Diamond Rock,
Pointe de la Cherry,
97223 Le Diamant ;
tel./fax 05 96 76 10 65 ;
[email protected]
Q CORAIL CLUB CARAÏBES
Hôtel Club des
Trois-Îlets, Anse à l’Âne,
97229 Les Trois-Îlets ;
tel. 05 96 68 36 36 ;
fax 05 96 68 30 13 ;
[email protected] ;
Q
www.caraibes-plongee.com
Q ESPACE PLONGÉE MARTINIQUE
Pointe du Bout, 97229
Les Trois-Îlets ; tel./fax
05 96 66 01 79 ; mob.
06 96 25 11 90 ; E.P.M.@
wanadoo.fr ; www.espaceplongee-martinique.com
Q MARIN PLONGÉE
Bassin Tortue,
97290 Le Marin ;
tel./fax 05 96 74 05 31 ;
mob. 06 96 83 31 51 ;
[email protected] ;
www.marinplongee.com
Q NATIYABEL
Case des Pêcheurs,
Marché du Bourg,
97227 Sainte-Anne ;
mob. 06 96 36 63 01 ;
[email protected] ;
www.natiyabel.com
Q PLANÈTE BLEUE
Marina, 97229 Les TroisÎlets ; tel. 05 96 66 08 79 ;
fax 05 96 66 10 01 ;
mob. 06 96 45 32 77 ;
[email protected] ;
www.planete-bleue.mq
Q PLONGÉE CARITAN
Hôtel Anse Caritan,
97227 Sainte-Anne ;
tel. 05 96 76 81 31 ;
mob. 06 96 40 72 00 ;
[email protected]
Q ATLANTIQUE REEF
Anse Spoutourne, Tartane,
97227 Trinité ; tel. 05 96
58 05 94 ; mob. 06 96 90
16 16 ; geraldmilienne@
mediaserv.net
Q ATLANTIS PLONGÉE
Hôtel la Baie du Galion,
DECOMPRESSION CHAMBER
Tartane, 97227 Trinité ;
Hôpital de la Meynard,
tel. 05 96 68 36 36 ;
Docteur Mehdaoui, intensive
care unit, 97261 Fort-de-France.
mob. 06 96 34 40 22 ;
Tel. +596 596 55 23 46 ;
[email protected] ;
www.chu-fortdefrance.fr
www.caraibes-plongee.com
OTHER DIVE CENTERS
Q ATTITUDE PLONGÉE
Q ALPHA PLONGÉE
Marina, Pointe du Bout ; tel.
Grande Anse, 97217
05 96 66 28 27 ; mob. 06
Les Anses d’Arlet ;
96 72 59 28 ; contact@
tel. 05 96 48 30 34 ;
attitudeplongee.com
Q CRAZY FROG
mob. 06 96 81 93 42 ;
Quartier l’Étang, 97217
[email protected] ;
www.alpha-plongee.com
Q AMPHITRITE
tel./fax 05 96 48 32 17 ;
Benoît Godeau, 7 rue
mob. 06 96 37 37 18 ;
de l’Église du Fort,
[email protected] ;
97250 Saint-Pierre ;
http://crazy.frog.free.fr
Q KALINAGO
tel. 05 96 74 50 78 ;
Pointe du Marin ;
mob. 06 96 44 91 66 ;
tel. 05 96 76 92 98 ;
[email protected]
Q ANSES D’ARLET PLONGÉE
fax 05 96 76 95 38 ;
Bourg, 97217
[email protected] ;
www.kalinagoplongee.fr
fax 05 96 76 96 18 ;
[email protected]
Q SAINTE-LUCE PLONGÉE
15 bd Kennedy, Port,
97228 Sainte-Luce ;
tel. 05 96 62 40 06 ; fax
05 96 62 44 48 ; mail@
sainteluceplongee.com ;
www.sainteluceplongee.fr
39
13/03/12 12:29
NORCASUB
Hôtel Marouba, Le coin,
97221 Le Carbet ; tel. 05
96 78 40 04 ; fax 05 96
55 01 95 ; mob. 06 96 28
11 33 ; norcasubplongee@
hotmail.com
QOKEANOS CLUB
Hôtel Pierre & Vacances,
BP 13, 97228
Sainte-Luce cedex ;
tel. 05 96 62 52 36 ;
fax 05 96 62 24 64 ;
mob. 06 96 71 94 41 ;
[email protected] ;
www.okeanos-club.com
QPARADIS PLONGÉE
Club nautique, Bassin
Tortue, 97290 Le Marin ;
tel. 05 96 76 48 84 ;
mob. 06 96 34 56 16 ;
[email protected]
QPLONGÉE FUTÉ
Sébastien Gerbaud, 43 bd
Kennedy, 97228 SainteLuce ; tel. 05 96 62 40 06 ;
mob. 06 96 76 58 69 ;
www.plongeefute.com ;
[email protected]
QPLONGÉE PASSION
Grand Anse, 97217 Les
Anses d’Arlet ; tel. 05 96
68 71 78 ; 05 96 69 07
38 ; mob. 06 96 77 87 43 ;
www.plongee.com ;
plongeepassion.tipayot@
gmail.com
Q
SURCOUF DIVE
Plage de la guinguette,
Entrée de Saint-Pierre,
10 résidence Côté Plage,
Le coin, 97221 Le Carbet ;
tel. 05 96 63 67 02 ;
mob. 06 96 24 39 45 ;
[email protected]
QTROPICASUB IDC
Hôtel la Batelière, 97233
Schoelcher ; tel. 05 96 61
65 57 ; fax 05 96 61 70
57 ; [email protected] ; www.
plongee-martinique.com
QTROPICASUB PLONGÉE
Résidence Madi Créoles,
Françoise et Lionel Lafont,
Anse Latouche, 97250
Saint-Pierre ; tel. 05 96 78
38 03 ; mob. 06 96 24 24
30 ; [email protected] ;
www.tropicasub.com
QUCPA
(Union des centres de plein
air), Fond Corée, 97250
Saint-Pierre, tel. 05 96 78
21 03 ; fax 05 96 78 19 42 ;
[email protected] ;
www.ucpa.com
Q
ASSOCIATIONS
ALIZÉ PLONGÉE MARTINIQUE
Anse Bleue, 97223 Le
Diamant, tel. 05 96 76 17 39
mob. 06 96 45 81 51 ;
[email protected]
Q
MARTINIQUE UNDERWATER SPORTS COMMISSION
(CO.MA.S.SUB), Maison des Sports, pointe de la Vierge,
Q
97200 Fort-de-France, tel. +596 596 63 64 46 / 61 09 14;
mob. +596 696 25 92 39 ; fax + 596 596 63 64 55 ;
[email protected] ; www.comassub.org
Q “PLONGEZ EN MARTINIQUE”, PROFESSIONAL DIVE
CENTRES GROUPING
www.plongezenmartinique.com ;
[email protected]
C. Migeon
Dive center
directory
CLUB SPORTIF
MILITAIRE MARTINIQUE
Section plongée, Morne
Desaix BP 606, 97261
Fort-de-France cedex,
tel./fax 05 96 61 95 47 ;
[email protected]
Q CLUB SUBAQUATIQUE
DE CASE-PILOTE
BP 3, 97222 Case-Pilote
cedex, tel. 05 96 78 73 75 ;
mob. 06 96 80 24 42 ;
[email protected] ;
www.cscp-plongee.com
Q CRESSMA
(Club régional d’études
et de sports sous-marins
des Antilles), Marina Port
Cohé, BP 238, 97284
Le Lamentin cedex,
tel. 06 96 31 40 02 ;
fax 05 96 38 50 04 ;
[email protected] ;
http://cressma.com
Q DIAMANT CARAÏBES
27 rue des Pruniers,
97217 Les Anses d’Arlet,
tel. 05 96 48 31 54 ;
[email protected]
Q HISTOIRE D’AIR
Trou au Diable,
97228 Sainte-Luce,
mob. 06 96 41 55 40 ;
fax 05 96 62 25 74 ;
[email protected] ;
Q
www.histoiredair.fr
Q HYPOCAMPUS
lycée général et
technique de la pointe
des Nègres, 97200
Fort-de-France,
tel. 05 96 61 99 10 ;
[email protected]
Q PAPA D’LO
102 rue Bouillé,
97250 Saint-Pierre,
tel./fax 05 96 78 12 06 ;
jacques-yves.imbert@
wanadoo.fr ;
www.perso.wanadoo.fr/
papadlo
Q SCUBA LIBRE
32 avenue de
l’Impératrice Joséphine,
97229 Les Trois-Îlets ;
mob. 06 96 26 96 26
Q SOUTH DISCOVER
A57 Gros Raisin,
97228 Sainte-Luce,
tel. 05 96 62 46 74 ;
fax 05 96 62 44 02 ;
[email protected]
Q UCPA
(Union des centres de
plein air), Fond Corée,
97250 Saint-Pierre,
tel. 05 96 78 21 03 ;
fax 05 96 78 19 42 ;
[email protected] ;
www.ucpa.com
40
13/03/12 12:29
C. Migeon
D. Deflorin
Spider crab (cabouka).
Coney
C. Migeon
A shoal of squirrelfishes.
C. Migeon
C. Migeon
Soldier fi sh.
CREOLE BESTIARY
Fishermen often renamed local fauna inhabitants after creole
vocabulary. Here is a quick recap of knicknames and poetic local
terms to help divers sort their way out!
Balaou : wrestling halfbeak.
Barbarin: yellow goatfish (Mulloidichthys martinicus).
Cabouka: spider crab.
Cacamél (“le caca de merle”): bicolor damselfish.
Capitaine: hogfish (Lachnolaimus maximus).
Capitaine des roches: spanish hogfish (Bodianus rufus).
Capitaine z’ailes jaunes: yellowfin grouper (Mycteroperca
venenosa).
Carpe: parrot fish.
Cé ma faute: fiddler crab (Uca rapax).
Chadron: urchin.
Chauffetsoleil: sergeant major.
Chatrou: octopus.
Congre vert: green moray eel (Gymnothorax funebris).
Gorette: fish genus (Haemulon).
Lambi: queen conch.
Mambalaou (“la maman du balaou”): swordfish.
Marignan: soldier fish (Holocentrus).
Marsouin calebasse: Short-finned pilot whale.
Mombin: squirrelfish.
Morène noire: spotted moray eel (Gymnothorax moringa).
Ouatalibi: coney (Cephalopholis fulva).
Pagre dents-de-chien: dog teeth snapper (Lutjanus jocu).
Poisson manioc: creole wrasse (Clepticus parrae).
Portugaise: french angelfish (Pomacanthus paru).
Sarde blanche: white margate (Haemulon album).
Sarde queue jaune: yellowtail snapper (Ocyurus chrysurus).
Sauteu: kingfish mackerel (Scomberomorus regalis).
Soleil: atlantic bigeye (Priacanthus arenatus).
Sorbe: mutton snapper (Lutjanus analis).
Tcha-tcha: atlantic horse mackerel.
Têtarde: tiger grouper (Mycteroperca tigris).
Trembleur: brazilian electric ray (Narcine brasiliensis).
Varey: marlin.
Vieille blanche: red grouper (Epinephelus morio).
0lll-lV_COUV_Carte_Martin-VA-2012.indd III
Fish genus.
NORTH
SITES
1 Rocher de la Perle
2 Récif du sous-marin
3 La Citadelle
4 Les jardins du Prêcheur
5 Les canyons de Babodi
6 Le tombant de Baradi
7 Les sources chaudes
8 Le Biscaye
9 Le Roraima
10 L’Amélie
11 Cap enragé
SOUTH
SITES
12 Le Nahoon
13 Le Cap Salomon
14 La Pointe Burgos
15 Les Grandes Jorasses
16 Le Rocher du Diamant
17 Le Banc du Diamant
18 Le Tombant de l’Église
19 La Grande Caye de Sainte-Luce
20 Les Trois Vallées
21 Le Tombant des Sorbes
22 Le Domingo
13/03/12 12:23
C
2
l de la Dominique
ana
PARIS
NEW-YORK
FORT-DE-FRANCE
1
Basse-Pointe
Montagne Pelée
(1397m)
3
4
Le Prêcheur
5
6
7
8 9
Le Lorrain
ATLANTIC OCEAN
Sainte-Marie
Le Morne-Rouge
Saint-Pierre
lion
Baie du Ga
La Trinité
10
Le Carbet
11
Le Robert
CA
RI
Schœlcher
BB
EA
N
S
E
A
Le François
FORT-DE-FRANCE
-de
For t
e
e d 12
Bai
-Fran
ce
Les Trois-Îlets
13
Les Anses-d’Arlet
Le Diamant
14
15
16
Rocher du
Diamant
18
17
Le Vauclin
Saint-Esprit
Rivière-Salée
Sainte-Luce
19
20
Sainte-Anne
21
MARTINIQUE KEY FIGURES
7.000km from France
and 3.150km from New York
2
Q Surface area: 1.180km
Q Length: 80km
Q Width: 39km
Q
Population : 410.000
Q High point: montagne Pelée
(1.397m)
Q Coastline: 350km
Q Tourists: 610.000 (2008)
Q
0lll-lV_COUV_Carte_Martin-VA-2012.indd IV
22
ain
Canal de S
Lu
te-
cie
13/03/12 12:23
Yellow tube sponges
( Aplysina fistularis )
on the upper part of le
Rocher de la Perle.
0V_COUV-photo_Martin-VA-2012.indd V
13/03/12 12:23
MARTINIQUE TOURISM AUTHORITY
Tel. +596 596 61 61 77 - Fax +596 596 61 22 72
[email protected]
www.martiniquetourisme.com
MAISON DE MARTINIQUE
Tel. +33 144 77 86 00 - Fax +33 144 77 86 25
[email protected]
www.lamaisondemartinique.com
AMERICA OFFICE
MARTINIQUE PROMOTION BUREAU
Tel. 212 838 78 00 - Fax 212 838 78 55
[email protected]
www.martinique.org
CANADA OFFICE
Tel. 1 514 844 85 66 - Fax 1 514 844 89 01
[email protected]
www.lamartinique.ca
Ce document est cofinancé par l’Union européenne.
L’Europe s’engage en Martinique avec le Fonds européen
de développement régional
0Vl_COUV-Contacts_Martin-VA-2012.indd VI
14/03/12 10:11

destination : diving

Transcription

Similar documents

UP UP AND AWAY - Principato di Seborga

The Little School Bus - AmazingClassroom.com

Diving Club Constitution

Power, Steering Proxes R888 sticks to the track whilst you stick to

Everyday Value

IDeal™ - Afimilk

Classes - Adventure Outfitters

florida keys - Indian Valley Scuba

Diving into Sabah , Malaysia

Print Details - American Marine and Boat Sales