Valley Master Gardener - Georgia Master Gardener Association
Transcription
Valley Master Gardener - Georgia Master Gardener Association
Valley Master Gardener ~ to help educate others through horticultural projects that benefit the community. 2015 Vol 10 Issue 3 CBG has a schedule of events from Feb – May with Children’s Education at CBG. Please take a look at the schedule, mark the dates on your calendar and email me your availability. I will send out details of each event as needed. ~ Terri Edwards 02/25/15 9:00-12:00 Wynnton Elem. 77, 2nd 02/26/15 9:30-10:30 Baker Middle 60, 6-8th 03/05/15 9:30-10:30 Baker Middle 45, 6-8th 03/06/15 1:30-3:30 Girl Scouts No Info 03/07/15 10:00 Boy Scouts No Info 03/12/15 9:30-10:30 Baker Middle 60, 03/19/15 9:30-10:30 03/20/15 Inside this issue: Make a Soaker Hose 2 Ga. Gold Medal Vinca 3 Native Plant Center 4 6-8th Your Newsletter 5 Baker Middle 45, 6-8th Pitcher Plants 6-7 9:00-12:00 Wynnton Elem. 96, 1st Drilling for Daffodils 8-9 04/15/15 10:00-12:00 TSYS No Info Pre-K 10:00-12:00 TSYS No Info Pre-K CBG Volunteer Day 10 04/16/15 04/23/15 9:30-10:30 Double Churches 50 6-8th Walter Reeves Says … 11 04/30/15 9:30-10:30 Double Churches 50, 6-8th Sheri Dorn - Training 12 05/07/15 9:30-10: 00 Midtown Middle 60, 6-8th Advanced Training 13 Thanks all. It’s looking to be a fun 2015 with the children at the Garden! Terri Edwards [email protected] 762-821-3422 Herbicides - Read Label Super Suet Daylily Festival 14-15 16 17-18 Make a soaker hose from worn out hose. If you have an old garden hose especially one that has holes and is on the way to the trash. ...don't throw it away! Take an ice pick or other tool, and add multiple holes down the length of the hose. Be sure and put the ice pick all the way through. Strangely, when we make holes, they do not let water out as well as we would like. Then take the end of the house and "tie a knot" in it. It is OK if the knot does not stop the water all the way. You have now made yourself a watering hose or drip irrigation hose. Just connect it to the faucet as usual. Now you are wanting the water to leak out! You can decide on the placement of the holes. My experience is that even though I put the ice pick all the way through both sides of the hose, many of the holes do NOT allow the water out. I am needing to remake them this spring. The use of a drill rather than the ice pick is probably a better choice. Submitted by: Glenda Glover Spring Is Almost Here In 2015, the vernal equinox (which is also called the spring equinox in the Northern Hemisphere) falls on March 20 at 6:45 P.M. EDT. 2 For the past 22 years the Georgia Gold Medal winners have been selected by a group of horticultural professionals and faculty of the University of Georgia. The competing nominees are judged on criteria such as survivability, ease of maintaining, and seasonal interest. This year’s winner in the annual category is Cora ™ vinca and Cora ™ Cascade vinca. The Cora is a cultivar of Catharanthus roseus and is not to be confused with periwinkle, also called vinca and of the same family, but a perennial mostly used as ground cover and tolerant of shade. Unlike any periwinkle, the 2015 Gold Medal winner Cora ™ vinca, with large blooms, stands up to 16“ tall and blooms in vibrant colors. Reliable, uniform color such as magenta and apricot is the reason a mass planting of Cora vinca resembles a living carpet. The heavy blooming plant, up to 16” tall and 24” wide, produces flower the entire summer season and into the fall. Prized for its ability to withstand extreme, stressful conditions, the Cora ™ vinca does require basic considerations such as good soil drainage and pH of 5.4 to 5.8. The plant does not require dead heading or pinching back for continuous bloom. So, enjoy an “easy” flowers this summer with impressive blooming power. If you would like to learn more about Cora ™ vinca, please visit the following links: University of Georgia Vinca Production and University of Florida Garden Solutions . To learn more about the 2015 Georgia Gold Medal winner and its competition, visit The Trial Gardens of UGA Teresa Burkett, Master Gardener Extension Volunteer, UGA Extension Muscogee County 3 NATIVE PLANT GARDEN CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY Did you know there is a Native Plant Botanical Garden adjacent to the Decatur Campus of Georgia Perimeter College (GPC) on Panthersville Rd in SW DeKalb County? The GPC Native Plant Botanical Garden has drawn visits from notable Botanists and Horticulturists from all over the world and was a day-long stop on the tour of the British Pteridological Society and the Hardy Fern Foundation in 2011. On May 28, 2010, Professor Sanko was recognized for his creation of one of the top gardens in the nation when the National Garden Club bestowed on him its "Award of Excellence". The Garden is open Free to the Public 24/7. The GPC Native Plant Garden will celebrate its 25th Anniversary by hosting a week long program (4/19/15 - 4/25/15) of Garden Walks, Garden Talks, and opportunity for purchasing plants. This Native Plant Garden is the outcome of the vision, dedication and devotion of George Sanko, professor of Botany and Biology at GPC for 25 years. In 1990, after retiring as full-time professor, George Sanko committed to repurposing an overgrown waste land adjacent to the southern edge of DeKalb College (now a part of the Georgia Perimeter College system) into a Native Plant Garden. There are actually two Gardens co-located on this site: (1) the Native Plant Garden and (2) the Ferns of the World Garden. The mission of both gardens is to educate the public about US native plants and temperate ferns by providing a teaching environment. The Native Plant Garden consists of several unique areas to visit, e.g. Bog Garden; Shrub Garden; Shade Garden; Meadow; Granite Outcrop Garden; Sandhill Bed; and Xeric Perennials Bed. The Ferns of the World Garden contains more species of ferns than any other garden in the U.S. (cont next pg) This Garden presently occupies 4 acres and contains 900 taxa of native plants and ferns, including 390 fern taxa. At any time, there are between 9,500 and 12,000 plant specimens growing in the garden. 4 Native Plants cont. The fern collection includes not only ferns common to the U.S, but also ferns from temperate areas around the world. The Ferns of the World Garden was designated an affiliate garden of the Hardy Fern Foundation in 2011. Additionally, there are two greenhouses; a nursery and propagation area; an outdoor plant growing area and a plant sale area. These facilities provide the Garden with many plants for use in the Garden and for public purchase during the Garden Spring and Fall Plant Sales. Please visit the GPC Native Garden web site (www.gpcnativegarden.org.) for more information; directions to the Garden and to see the schedule for upcoming events. The Valley MGEV Newsletter is published at various times during the year, seemingly at the whim of the editor (when the issue is full enough). As your editor, I seek to provide a mixture of articles that reflect both local events and programs, as well as articles of an educational nature. I also include articles about what other MGEVs are doing in Georgia. UGA / ANR 420 10th St Columbus Ga 706.653.4200 To best represent the local events I need to have your help. Please, if you are at any event that involves MGEVs, take a picture with that handy phone, or carry a camera. You can write an article or send the highlights of the event and I will compose an article. There can be no comprehensive newsletter without your input. In addition, it gives other local MGEVs an opportunity to possibly volunteer to help with an ongoing project - and who doesn’t need extra help? The Valley MGEV Newsletter is also shared with others at the state level. You may not know but your newsletter is listed on the GMGA website for others to read. In addition, there are other newsletters representing groups from around Georgia. I enjoy reading those (as well, as lifting a great article or two along the way, with permission, of course) . I know that winter is a slow time, except for the Columbus Botanical Garden’s work with children. But spring is just around the corner. Are you planning your work for the year ahead? If you have a project, you can share what your plans are - and follow up on what happened during 2014. Help make your newsletter the best it can be. ~ gayle dean 5 GROWING PITCHER PLANTS IN CONTAINERS By Mary Tucker, Cherokee County Master Gardener One of our most fascinating native plants, the carnivorous pitcher plant (Sarracenia spp.), is also one of the easiest to grow – provided you understand its lifestyle and needs. Most carnivorous plants are indigenous to sunny bogs, wet meadows, and savannas with acidic, nutrient-poor soil that is low in the minerals essential for a plant’s growth. To supplement the meager nutrition they derive from the soil, carnivorous plants have adapted their structure to catch and digest insects. Pitcher plants have evolved modified, tubular leaves that secrete nectar. This lures an insect inside; then stiff, downward-pointing hairs and a waxy substance inside the tube prevent the insect’s escape. At this point, enzymes in the leaf digest the insect, making its nutrients available for use by the plant. As a backup system, the leaves also contain some chlorophyll and thereby produce some food through photosynthesis. Seven species of pitcher plants are endemic to Georgia and all are State protected. Despite their protected status, wild collection is still a problem, so be sure to only purchase pitcher plants from a reputable nursery. Fortunately, pitcher plants are easy to grow from seed and tissue culture, so legitimately sold plants are readily available. Pitcher plants bloom in April or May, with nodding yellow or maroon blossoms borne on long, upright stalks. But these plants are more renowned for their attractive and insecteating foliage than for their bloom, and they are at their peak of beauty during their most vigorous growth period, which is in August and September. The leaves come in all manner of color, pattern, and form, and hybridizers have taken advantage of these characteristics to breed some fanciful and exquisite cultivars. CULTIVATION TIPS: Despite the unusual lifestyle of pitcher plants, they are not as difficult to grow as you might expect, provided they have the proper soil, sunlight, and moisture. In cultivation, strive to give them conditions similar to those they experience growing in the wild. This includes ample sun, a nutrient-poor soil with a low pH, and plenty of moisture (but not standing water or anaerobic conditions). The easiest way to control these factors is to grow these plants in specially adapted containers, creating your own miniature bog. (cont pg 6) 6 There is no strict recipe for the planting medium, but most pitcher plant growers recommend Canadian sphagnum peat moss, which has a low pH and very few nutrients, as a primary ingredient in the growing medium. Approximately 50 percent of the mixture should be peat moss, with the balance being coarse sand (such as sand-blaster sand or builders sand) and/or perlite or vermiculite. I have always used equal measures of peat and sand, and I have been pleased with the results. The sand should be clean, with no additives or other minerals. For ease of handling, premoisten the peat moss before preparing the mix and filling the growing container. A variety of containers are suitable, provided you consider the plant’s needs and adapt the container as necessary. In the wild, pitcher plants grow in areas with a high water table, and moisture is available to be wicked up to the plant. This is the same effect you want to achieve with your container. This can be done with a fairly shallow pot with bottom drainage holes that is set in a saucer filled with water from which moisture can wick up. To provide ample water, the saucer should be deeper than the typical plant saucer. The moat that this system creates will also act as a barrier to pests such as slugs and snails. An alternative is to use a container without bottom drainage, but with drainage holes drilled about halfway up to relieve excess moisture. This will allow the bottom half of the container to act as a reservoir from which the plant can draw its water. Since pitcher plants require so much water, I prefer to use plastic pots to inhibit evaporation. I have found the bowl-shaped plastic pots to be very satisfactory and shallow enough to allow water to wick up to keep the plants uniformly moist. When growing pitcher plants in containers, keep in mind that the environment you are providing is not an exact duplication of the natural bog that pitcher plants would inhabit in the wild. For this reason, you need to monitor moisture levels, especially during hot, dry spells. Most pitcher plants need full sun to thrive. Most are also very cold-hardy, and even in a pot they can usually be left outside unless the temperature drops into the teens or below. If in doubt, check the requirements of the species you are growing. The leaves of most species will turn brown in winter, though some, such as the purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia purpurea), are evergreen to semi-evergreen. Trim away dead leaves, both for a neater appearance and to keep the decaying leaves from adding too many nutrients to the planting medium. Likewise, resist any temptation to apply fertilizer. Pitcher plants spread via rhizomes and can be divided when they have developed multiple crowns. Some of the more vigorous species may need to be divided every few years to keep them from getting overly crowded. Some authorities say that the best time to divide pitcher plants is during winter dormancy or in early spring. Others recommend division in the fall when the plants are not actively growing but the roots are still vigorous. I find that the constantly moist soil of my pitcher plant bogs encourages germination of many seedlings – from desirable plants such as cardinal flower to unwanted weeds or tree seedlings. If left unchecked, these plants can overtake the bog and shade out or crowd out the pitcher plants. 7 Drilling for Daffodils This is an interesting and fun concept you can implement in the months of November and December here in zone 7. Rather than tilling up a large area to plant daffodil bulbs when what you want is for them to grow in a scattered, woodland effect, try this idea. Drill a hole, drop in some planting mix and two or three bulbs – Col Botanical Garden depending on the size of the bulbs, and fill in the hole the rest of the way with native soil. Please don’t forget that the bulbs go in the ground with the pointy end UP. Don’t space the holes too close together; allow at about six inches in all directions. Repeat until you have planted all your bulbs, then water the newly planted bulbs. When the daffodils come up, they will be in a random, natural-looking pattern in your garden. You can certainly plant other types of bulbs using this method. We used the method in our Cherokee County Master Gardener demonstration gardens using daffodil and crocus bulbs. This article focuses on planting daffodil bulbs using a bulb auger on a drill. Gerald Phillips using drill. If your soil is very loose and rich, lucky you. You could probably plant your bulbs easily enough using a bulb trowel. This drill method allows you to plant more easily in less than perfect soil conditions and in some areas that may be otherwise hard to plant, such as a steep bank or on a hill. Also, if you have lots of bulbs to plant, the drill might be your friend. Here’s what you will need for this planting project: a drill – portable or electric; a drill attachment with a bulb planter, also called a bulb auger; some planting mix; lots of daffodils bulbs. If you are going to use a portable drill, you will need an 18 or 20 volt battery type for it to be strong enough to dig. We used both electric and portable drill types for testing. If you plan to use an electric drill, consider of course the length of the cord, following factory recommendations about the use of an extension cord. The drill attachment we used , called a plant auger, is a 2" by 24" bulb planter. The bulb planters or augers come in several different lengths and diameters and can be found at garden stores and the big box hardware stores and, of course, online. (cont pg 9) 8 At our demonstration gardens, (Albany) we have used this technique several times with very good results. In the fall of 2012, we planted dozens of daffodil bulbs on a steep bank. Using the drill method was perfect for that bank where it would be difficult to use the tiller. The next spring, the bank looked lovely, covered with blooming daffodils. We have also used this method in our more easily accessible demonstration garden areas just because it is very fast and works so well. When buying bulbs for your fall planting, consider the many available types with regard to height, color, number of blossoms per stem, and bloom times. There are some daffodils that are only six to eight inches tall, some as tall as eighteen inches, and every height in between. There are bulbs that bloom early, mid, and late spring. Plant some of each to extend the overall bloom time for your plantings. Most of us think of the yellow daffodils and those may remain your favorite, but look at some of the others – from a cream to even a shade of apricot! We know that getting your bulbs in the ground is not always about speed; it’s also about the joy of digging in the dirt. But sometimes a little help from the power tools gets the job done and gets you on to other joyful garden tasks. So if this drill method appeals to you, grab your bucket of bulbs and your drill and head out to the garden! Article and drilling photo: Gail Roos 9 Columbus Botanical Garden Volunteer Appreciation Luncheon Many MGEVs earn hours by volunteering at the Botanical Garden. Matt Whitten, director of the Garden, presented a program, sharing with us the long-term plan, as well as some of the many shorter term goals. Following his presentation, he presented an award for the volunteer of the year to Molly Day. Molly is a tireless volunteer who has given the most hours of service during the 2014 year. 10 From Walter Reeves’ Newsletter Originally published Jan 15 2015. My rule of thumb for fertilizing any plant is to do it when it is actively growing. Spring-flowering bulbs, like daffodils, tulips and hyacinths fool us though. They seem to be “actively growing” in spring when flowers appear. But the truth of the matter is that the best time to fertilize is when the foliage first emerges in winter. That’s when the roots and new foliage is actively growing. After the plant flowers, the roots decline and can no longer absorb much fertilizer. So any nutrients you add then are pretty much wasted on the plant. If bulbs have been fertilized in the past, there is often plenty of phosphorus and potassium in the soil. They can get by with a couple of applications of water-soluble fertilizer (Miracle-Gro, Peters, etc). If you think the soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer (such as 10-10 -10, etc.) at the rate of 1 lbs. per 100 sq. feet. This equals 1 rounded teaspoon per sq. foot. Lawn fertilizers such as 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 can be used, but cut the rate to .4 pounds per 100 square feet. Also make sure the lawn fertilizer does not contain a weed preventer or weed killer. Remember to leave the foliage until it dies naturally. The energy in the foliage is transferred to the bulb as the foliage dies and will help bloom next year. (Reprinted with permission) 11 What’s the Difference Between Continuing Ed and Advanced Training? By: Sheri Dorn Adapted from the Trellis blog post on November 24, 2014 (To subscribe to Trellis and join in the conversation, go to http://blog.extension.uga.edu/mgevp and use the “Sign Up” option on the right-hand side of the screen.) Individuals are drawn to the MGEV program because of the opportunity to learn about horticulture topics. Staying informed and up-to-date on gardening topics and the latest research maintains enthusiasm and interest for many MGEVs. Just scanning through the continuing education entries in MGLOG, it's apparent that MGEVs get their information from many sources, such as speakers at the meetings of horticultural organizations, including MGEV organizations; national and international conferences; Extension workshops and presentations; and classes at the many public gardens in the state. This informal instruction on all things gardening is referred to as continuing education. It serves to keep you fresh and knowledgeable, usually 30 minutes or an hour at a time. In 2015, we hosted a research-based update. Grow Strong!, an update specifically for MGEVs that centers on our state initiative areas, is so important for MGEVs that we offered it in two locations -- in Macon on January 16 and in Gainesville on January 30. It's pretty exciting, really, to hear about the latest research and projects of faculty and specialists across the University! This form of continuing education is intended to get you refreshed and re-energized about horticulture before we begin the busy spring season. In Georgia, we have another kind of training for veteran MGEVs. We offer Advanced Training to individuals who have completed the initial 50 hours of volunteer time and have some experience under their belt. Advanced Training aims to build skills and develop our educational programming for the public. It is more than subject-matter lectures. It answers the statement, “As a result of attending Advanced Training, MGEVs will be able to do XXX for/in partnership with Extension.” (cont pg 14) 12 (cont from pg 13) Advanced Training is somewhat different from continuing education. The trainings are indepth -- almost overwhelming sometimes! They are organized by UGA Extension, most often the State Program Office (SPO), specifically for MGEVs. Certificates are awarded to individuals who complete the 6-hour Advanced Training sessions, and attendance is recorded in MGLOG by the SPO. Individuals who are really interested in building their expertise can pursue Silver and Gold Star recognition (click here for more information). The new 2015 line-up for Advanced Training sessions has been posted on our webpage under "News and Events." In response to your requests, we'll be offering several sessions in the metro area AND we'll repeat the popular 2014 training, "Teaching with Demonstration Gardens." Look for announcements from Extension Agents and postings through MGLOG to those eligible to attend. Hope to see you next year! Advanced Training Schedule April 15, 2015 – Teaching with Demonstration Gardens, Cobb County (R, YCG) May 15, 2015 – Plant Expert Series: Turfgrass, UGA-Griffin (SGL) June 2015 – Vegetable Diagnostics, Macon (DDT) July 2015 – Water-Wise Landscape Techniques, Atlanta (WQM) September 11, 2015 – MG SPROUTS for Youth Audiences, Dahlonega (YCG) October 16, 2015 – Plant Expert Series: Native Trees, North Fulton (UFE, SGL) (Open to certified, active MGEVs only. Registrations will open 4-6 weeks prior to training date. Registration information will be distributed through local Extension Agents/ programs.) 13 READ HERBICIDE LABELS CAREFULLY TO AVOID KILLING LANDSCAPE PLANTS AND TREES By Paul Pugliese UGA Extension An herbicide designed to kill weeds in turfgrass can also kill neighboring trees and shrubs. Herbicides in the phenoxy chemical class provide broadleaf weed control in lawns, pastures and hay forages. Some of the more common chemicals in this class include 2,4-D; MCPP; dicamba; clopyralid; and triclopyr. Safe for animals but not always for trees and shrubs These chemicals are considered very safe and leave very few toxicity concerns for animals. In fact, many of these herbicides are labeled for pasture use and allow for livestock to continue grazing without any restrictions. However, pesticide labels should always be read and followed to determine if any special precautions should be taken for specific site uses. Phenoxy herbicides provide selective weed control, which means they control many broadleaf weeds without causing damage to grass. Of course, each product is a little different and some are labeled for very specific turfgrass types, depending on their tolerance. The label should be checked for application to a specific lawn type (tall fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, etc.). If the turfgrass isn't on the label, don't assume the herbicide can be applied to all lawns. Unfortunately, phenoxy herbicides don't discriminate between dandelion weeds or any other broadleaf plants, including many trees and shrubs. So, it's very important to take extra precautions when applying these herbicides near landscaped areas with ornamental plants. Wind and rain can spread herbicides Consider the potential for drift damage to nearby plants and avoid spraying herbicides on a windy day. There is also the potential for movement of these herbicides through runoff and leaching in the soil. This is why the product label usually warns against spraying within the root zone of trees and shrubs and never exceeding the maximum application rates listed on the label. Many homeowners and landscapers often overlook these label precautions. The information that is contained on the label can seem somewhat vague to inexperienced applicators. (cont pg 15) 14 (cont pg 14) The biggest misconception concerns where the root zone of a tree or shrub exists. The roots of mature trees and shrubs actually extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. Research shows that absorption roots may extend as much as two to three times the canopy width. Consider spot-spraying to target individual weeds rather than broadcasting applications across the entire lawn. And never exceed the labeled rate. In landscapes that contain mature trees and shrubs, phenoxy herbicides may not be the best choice for weed control. These herbicides may be best reserved for wide-open spaces such as athletic fields, parks and pastures where tree roots are at a safe distance. The high potential for herbicide damage to trees is another great reason to protect tree roots by providing a mulch zone that extends well beyond the drip line of the canopy. If you're not trying to grow a manicured lawn underneath a tree, then there is no reason to apply phenoxy herbicides there for weed control. (emphasis by editor) Use the right herbicide for the job Another way to avoid potential damage is to rely less on phenoxy herbicides. Other classes of herbicides have less potential to affect the roots of nearby trees and shrubs. Take the time to identify your weeds and choose a more selective herbicide rather than combination products that usually contain multiple chemicals in the phenoxy class. Many pre-emergent herbicides can prevent weed problems in lawns. The key is to apply them at the correct time in spring and fall. Applying too early or too late often provides inadequate weed control and requires additional herbicide applications. Rotating pre-emergent herbicide classes will avoid the potential for resistant weeds. Also, be sure to apply water to the area according to the pre-emergent herbicide's label to activate it in the soil. For more information about the effects of phenoxy herbicides on landscape trees and shrubs, view the UGA Center for Urban Agriculture webinar at ugaurbanag.com/webinars. For assistance with weed identification and specific herbicide recommendations, contact your local UGA Extension office at 1-800-ASK-UGA1 or visit www.Georgiaturf.com. For more information or to view multimedia associated with this story, click here: http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/?public=viewStory&pk_id=5376 15 Martha’s Super Suet 1 cup lard (NOT Crisco or other solid vegetable shortening) 1 cup crunchy peanut butter 2 cups of quick-cook oatmeal 2 cups of cornmeal 1 cup white flour 1/3 cup sugar Melt lard and peanut butter together, then mix in other ingredients. Put into rectangular baking pan and chill (you might want to use throw-away pans). Cut into blocks, wrap in saran/waxed paper, store in refrigerator or freezer. Won’t melt in our summer heat. You may expect cardinals, titmice, chickadees, wrens, sparrows, warblers and woodpeckers. Coastal Master Gardener Association Newsletter, Courtesy of Coastal Wild Scapes “I have been making this for a several years. This Autumn I got lazy and bought some suet chunks from the store. The birds didn't seem very interested, so I made this recipe. Ten out of ten birds prefer this to store-bought. So I have been busy this Winter making it for them. Especially since the raccoons discovered them and stole not only the suet but the suet cages and hangers as well! I mean, I love all critters - we call the bird feeders "nature feeders" - but they don't have to steal the containers! So now I bring the food in at dusk and set them out again at dawn”. ~ Carol McCurdy MGEV March 21 is Master Gardener Day in Georgia. 16 17 For a successful festival, Larry needs volunteers. If you are interested and willing to work, please contact Larry at [email protected] or at 706-327-2067. Include houseplants as part of your healthy lifestyle! Did you know that some houseplants help remove potentially harmful chemicals - including those in paints, varnishes, dry cleaning fluids, car exhaust fumes and tobacco smoke - from the air in your home? The Dracaena and Peace Lily are among the best plants for removing formaldehyde. This toxic substance is commonly used in the construction of buildings and is also often present in considerable quantities in wood used in furniture. Some other houseplants that act as natural air filters are: 18 Calathea Ferns Ivy Philodendrons Rex Begonia