Valley Master Gardener - Georgia Master Gardener Association

Valley Master Gardener
~ to help educate others
through horticultural projects that benefit the community.
2015
Vol 10 Issue 3
CBG has a schedule of events from Feb – May with Children’s Education at CBG. Please
take a look at the schedule, mark the dates on your calendar and email me your availability. I will send out details of each event as needed. ~ Terri Edwards
02/25/15
9:00-12:00
Wynnton Elem. 77,
2nd
02/26/15
9:30-10:30
Baker Middle 60,
6-8th
03/05/15
9:30-10:30
Baker Middle 45,
6-8th
03/06/15
1:30-3:30
Girl Scouts
No Info
03/07/15
10:00
Boy Scouts
No Info
03/12/15
9:30-10:30
Baker Middle 60,
03/19/15
9:30-10:30
03/20/15
Inside this issue:
Make a Soaker Hose
2
Ga. Gold Medal Vinca
3
Native Plant Center
4
6-8th
Your Newsletter
5
Baker Middle 45,
6-8th
Pitcher Plants
6-7
9:00-12:00
Wynnton Elem. 96,
1st
Drilling for Daffodils
8-9
04/15/15
10:00-12:00
TSYS No Info
Pre-K
10:00-12:00
TSYS No Info
Pre-K
CBG Volunteer Day
10
04/16/15
04/23/15
9:30-10:30
Double Churches
50
6-8th
Walter Reeves Says …
11
04/30/15
9:30-10:30
Double Churches
50,
6-8th
Sheri Dorn - Training
12
05/07/15
9:30-10: 00
Midtown Middle
60,
6-8th
Advanced Training
13
Thanks all. It’s looking to be a fun 2015 with the children at
the Garden!
Terri Edwards
[email protected]
762-821-3422
Herbicides - Read Label
Super Suet
Daylily Festival
14-15
16
17-18
Make a soaker hose from worn out hose.
If you have an old garden hose especially one that has holes
and is on the way to the trash. ...don't throw it away!
Take an ice pick or other tool, and
add multiple holes down the length
of the hose. Be sure and put the ice
pick all the way through.
Strangely, when we make holes, they do not let water out as well
as we would like. Then take the end of the house and "tie a knot"
in it.
It is OK if the knot does not stop the water all the way. You have
now made yourself a watering hose or drip irrigation hose. Just
connect it to the faucet as usual.
Now you are wanting the water to leak out!
You can decide on the placement of the holes.
My experience is that even though I put the ice pick all the way through both sides of the
hose, many of the holes do NOT allow the water out. I am needing to remake them this
spring. The use of a drill rather than the ice pick is probably a better choice.
Submitted by: Glenda Glover
Spring Is Almost Here
In 2015, the vernal equinox
(which is also called the
spring equinox in the
Northern Hemisphere) falls
on March 20 at 6:45 P.M.
EDT.
2
For the past 22 years the Georgia Gold Medal winners have been selected by a group of horticultural professionals and faculty of the University of Georgia. The competing nominees
are judged on criteria such as survivability, ease of maintaining, and seasonal interest.
This year’s winner in the annual category is Cora ™ vinca and Cora ™ Cascade vinca. The
Cora is a cultivar of Catharanthus roseus and is not to be confused with periwinkle, also
called vinca and of the same family, but a perennial mostly used as ground cover and tolerant of shade.
Unlike any periwinkle, the 2015 Gold Medal winner Cora ™ vinca, with large blooms,
stands up to 16“ tall and blooms in vibrant colors.
Reliable, uniform color such as magenta and apricot is the reason a mass planting of Cora
vinca resembles a living carpet. The heavy blooming plant, up to 16” tall and 24” wide,
produces flower the entire summer season and into the fall.
Prized for its ability to withstand extreme, stressful conditions, the Cora ™ vinca does require basic considerations such as good soil drainage and pH of 5.4 to 5.8. The plant does
not require dead heading or pinching back for continuous bloom.
So, enjoy an “easy” flowers this summer with impressive
blooming power. If you would like to learn more about
Cora ™ vinca, please visit the following links: University of
Georgia Vinca Production and University of Florida Garden
Solutions . To learn more about the 2015 Georgia Gold
Medal winner and its competition, visit The Trial Gardens of
UGA
Teresa Burkett, Master Gardener Extension Volunteer,
UGA Extension Muscogee County
3
NATIVE PLANT GARDEN
CELEBRATES 25TH ANNIVERSARY
Did you know there is a
Native Plant Botanical Garden adjacent to the
Decatur Campus of Georgia
Perimeter College
(GPC) on Panthersville Rd
in SW DeKalb County?
The GPC Native Plant Botanical Garden has
drawn visits from notable Botanists and Horticulturists from all over the world and was a
day-long stop on the tour of the British Pteridological Society and the Hardy Fern Foundation in 2011. On May 28, 2010, Professor
Sanko was recognized for his creation of one
of the top gardens in the nation when the National Garden Club bestowed on him its
"Award of Excellence".
The Garden is open Free to the Public
24/7. The GPC Native Plant Garden will
celebrate its 25th Anniversary by hosting a
week long program (4/19/15 - 4/25/15) of
Garden Walks, Garden Talks, and
opportunity for purchasing plants.
This Native Plant Garden is the outcome of
the vision, dedication and devotion of
George Sanko, professor of Botany and
Biology at GPC for 25 years. In 1990,
after retiring as full-time professor, George
Sanko committed to repurposing an
overgrown waste land adjacent to the
southern edge of DeKalb College (now a
part of the Georgia Perimeter College
system) into a Native Plant Garden.
There are actually two Gardens co-located
on this site: (1) the Native Plant Garden and
(2) the Ferns of the World Garden. The mission of both gardens is to educate the public
about US native plants and temperate ferns
by providing a teaching environment.
The Native Plant Garden consists of several
unique areas to visit, e.g. Bog Garden; Shrub
Garden; Shade Garden; Meadow; Granite
Outcrop Garden; Sandhill Bed; and Xeric
Perennials Bed. The Ferns of the World
Garden contains more species of ferns than
any other garden in the U.S.
(cont next pg)
This Garden presently occupies 4 acres and
contains 900 taxa of native plants and
ferns, including 390 fern taxa. At any
time, there are between 9,500 and 12,000
plant specimens growing in the garden.
4
Native Plants cont.
The fern collection includes not only ferns common to the U.S, but also ferns from temperate areas around the world. The Ferns of the World Garden was designated an affiliate garden of the Hardy Fern Foundation in 2011.
Additionally, there are two greenhouses; a nursery and propagation area; an outdoor plant
growing area and a plant sale area. These facilities provide the Garden with many plants for
use in the Garden and for public purchase during the Garden Spring and Fall Plant Sales.
Please visit the GPC Native Garden web site (www.gpcnativegarden.org.) for more information; directions to the Garden and to see the schedule for upcoming events.
The Valley MGEV Newsletter is published at various times
during the year, seemingly at the whim of the editor (when the
issue is full enough). As your editor, I seek to provide a mixture of articles that reflect both local events and programs, as
well as articles of an educational nature. I also include articles
about what other MGEVs are doing in Georgia.
UGA / ANR
420 10th St
Columbus Ga
706.653.4200
To best represent the local events I need to have your help. Please, if you are at any event
that involves MGEVs, take a picture with that handy phone, or carry a camera. You can
write an article or send the highlights of the event and I will compose an article.
There can be no comprehensive newsletter without your input. In addition, it gives other
local MGEVs an opportunity to possibly volunteer to help with an ongoing project - and
who doesn’t need extra help?
The Valley MGEV Newsletter is also shared with others at the state level. You may not
know but your newsletter is listed on the GMGA website for others to read. In addition,
there are other newsletters representing groups from around Georgia. I enjoy reading those
(as well, as lifting a great article or two along the way, with permission, of course) .
I know that winter is a slow time, except for the Columbus Botanical Garden’s work with
children. But spring is just around the corner. Are you planning your work for the year
ahead? If you have a project, you can share what your plans are - and follow up on what
happened during 2014. Help make your newsletter the best it can be. ~ gayle dean
5
GROWING PITCHER PLANTS IN CONTAINERS
By Mary Tucker, Cherokee County Master Gardener
One of our most fascinating native plants, the carnivorous pitcher plant (Sarracenia spp.), is also one of the
easiest to grow – provided you understand its lifestyle
and needs. Most carnivorous plants are indigenous to
sunny bogs, wet meadows, and savannas with acidic,
nutrient-poor soil that is low in the minerals essential
for a plant’s growth.
To supplement the meager nutrition they derive from
the soil, carnivorous plants have adapted their structure
to catch and digest insects. Pitcher plants have evolved
modified, tubular leaves that secrete nectar. This lures
an insect inside; then stiff, downward-pointing hairs and
a waxy substance inside the tube prevent the insect’s
escape. At this point, enzymes in the leaf digest the insect, making its nutrients available for use by the plant.
As a backup system, the leaves also contain some chlorophyll and thereby produce some food through photosynthesis. Seven species of pitcher plants are endemic to Georgia and all are State protected. Despite their
protected status, wild collection is still a problem, so be sure to only purchase pitcher plants from a reputable nursery. Fortunately, pitcher plants are easy to grow from seed and tissue culture, so legitimately sold
plants are readily available.
Pitcher plants bloom in April or May, with nodding yellow
or maroon blossoms borne on long, upright stalks. But these
plants are more renowned for their attractive and insecteating foliage than for their bloom, and they are at their peak
of beauty during their most vigorous growth period, which is
in August and September. The leaves come in all manner of
color, pattern, and form, and hybridizers have taken advantage of these characteristics to breed some fanciful and exquisite cultivars.
CULTIVATION TIPS: Despite the unusual lifestyle of
pitcher plants, they are not as difficult to grow as you might
expect, provided they have the proper soil, sunlight, and
moisture. In cultivation, strive to give them conditions
similar to those they experience growing in the wild.
This includes ample sun, a nutrient-poor soil with a low pH, and plenty of moisture (but not standing water
or anaerobic conditions). The easiest way to control these factors is to grow these plants in specially
adapted containers, creating your own miniature bog.
(cont pg 6)
6
There is no strict recipe for the planting medium, but most
pitcher plant growers recommend Canadian sphagnum peat
moss, which has a low pH and very few nutrients, as a primary
ingredient in the growing medium. Approximately 50 percent
of the mixture should be peat moss, with the balance being
coarse sand (such as sand-blaster sand or builders sand) and/or
perlite or vermiculite.
I have always used equal measures of peat and sand, and I have
been pleased with the results. The sand should be clean, with
no additives or other minerals. For ease of handling, premoisten the peat moss before preparing the mix and filling the
growing container. A variety of containers are suitable, provided you consider the plant’s needs and adapt the container as
necessary. In the wild, pitcher plants grow in areas with a high
water table, and moisture is available to be wicked up to the
plant. This is the same effect you want to achieve with your
container. This can be done with a fairly shallow pot with bottom drainage holes that is set in a saucer filled with water from
which moisture can wick up.
To provide ample water, the saucer should be deeper than the typical plant saucer. The moat that this system creates will also act as a barrier to pests such as slugs and snails. An alternative is to use a container
without bottom drainage, but with drainage holes drilled about halfway up to relieve excess moisture. This
will allow the bottom half of the container to act as a reservoir from which the plant can draw its water.
Since pitcher plants require so much water, I prefer to use plastic pots to inhibit evaporation. I have found
the bowl-shaped plastic pots to be very satisfactory and shallow enough to allow water to wick up to keep
the plants uniformly moist.
When growing pitcher plants in containers, keep in mind that the environment you are providing is not an
exact duplication of the natural bog that pitcher plants would inhabit in the wild. For this reason, you need
to monitor moisture levels, especially during hot, dry spells. Most pitcher plants need full sun to thrive.
Most are also very cold-hardy, and even in a pot they can usually be left outside unless the temperature
drops into the teens or below. If in doubt, check the requirements of the species you are growing. The
leaves of most species will turn brown in winter, though some, such as the purple pitcher plant (Sarracenia
purpurea), are evergreen to semi-evergreen. Trim away dead leaves, both for a neater appearance and to
keep the decaying leaves from adding too many nutrients to the planting medium. Likewise, resist any
temptation to apply fertilizer.
Pitcher plants spread via rhizomes and can be divided when they have developed multiple crowns. Some
of the more vigorous species may need to be divided every few years to keep them from getting overly
crowded. Some authorities say that the best time to divide pitcher plants is during winter dormancy or in
early spring. Others recommend division in the fall when the plants are not actively growing but the roots
are still vigorous.
I find that the constantly moist soil of my pitcher plant bogs encourages germination of many seedlings –
from desirable plants such as cardinal flower to unwanted weeds or tree seedlings. If left unchecked, these
plants can overtake the bog and shade out or crowd out the pitcher plants.
7
Drilling for Daffodils
This is an interesting and fun concept you can implement in the
months of November and December here in zone 7. Rather than
tilling up a large area to plant daffodil bulbs when what you want
is for them to grow in a scattered, woodland effect, try this idea.
Drill a hole, drop in some planting mix and two or three bulbs –
Col Botanical Garden
depending on the size of the bulbs, and fill in the hole the rest of
the way with native soil. Please don’t forget that the bulbs go in the ground with the pointy end
UP.
Don’t space the holes too close together; allow at about six
inches in all directions. Repeat until you have planted all your
bulbs, then water the newly planted bulbs. When the daffodils
come up, they will be in a random, natural-looking pattern in
your garden.
You can certainly plant other types of bulbs using this method.
We used the method in our Cherokee County Master Gardener
demonstration gardens using daffodil and crocus bulbs. This
article focuses on planting daffodil bulbs using a bulb auger on
a drill.
Gerald Phillips using drill.
If your soil is very loose and rich, lucky you. You could probably
plant your bulbs easily enough using a bulb trowel. This drill
method allows you to plant more easily in less than perfect soil
conditions and in some areas that may be otherwise hard to
plant, such as a steep bank or on a hill.
Also, if you have lots of bulbs to plant, the drill might be your friend.
Here’s what you will need for this planting project: a drill – portable or electric; a drill attachment
with a bulb planter, also called a bulb auger; some planting mix; lots of daffodils bulbs.
If you are going to use a portable drill, you will need an 18 or 20 volt battery type for it to be
strong enough to dig. We used both electric and portable drill types for testing. If you plan to use
an electric drill, consider of course the length of the cord, following factory recommendations
about the use of an extension cord.
The drill attachment we used , called a plant auger, is a 2" by 24" bulb planter. The bulb planters
or augers come in several different lengths and diameters and can be found at garden stores and
the big box hardware stores and, of course, online.
(cont pg 9)
8
At our demonstration gardens, (Albany) we
have used this technique several times with
very good results. In the fall of 2012, we
planted dozens of daffodil bulbs on a steep
bank.
Using the drill method was perfect for that
bank where it would be difficult to use the
tiller.
The next spring, the bank looked lovely,
covered with blooming daffodils.
We have also used this method in our more easily
accessible demonstration garden areas just because it
is very fast and works so well.
When buying bulbs for your fall planting, consider the
many available types with regard to height, color,
number of blossoms per stem, and bloom times. There
are some daffodils that are only six to eight inches tall,
some as tall as eighteen inches, and every height in
between.
There are bulbs that bloom early, mid, and late spring.
Plant some of each to extend the overall bloom time
for your plantings. Most of us think of the yellow
daffodils and those may remain your favorite, but look
at some of the
others – from a cream to even a shade of apricot!
We know that getting your bulbs in the ground is not
always about speed; it’s also about the joy of digging in the
dirt. But sometimes a little help from the power tools gets
the job done and gets you on to other joyful garden tasks.
So if this drill method appeals to you, grab your bucket of
bulbs and your drill and head out to the garden!
Article and drilling photo: Gail Roos
9
Columbus Botanical Garden
Volunteer Appreciation Luncheon
Many MGEVs earn hours by volunteering at the
Botanical Garden. Matt Whitten, director of the Garden,
presented a program, sharing with us the long-term plan,
as well as some of the many shorter term goals.
Following his presentation, he presented an award for the
volunteer of the year to Molly Day. Molly is a tireless
volunteer who has given the most hours of service during
the 2014 year.
10
From Walter Reeves’ Newsletter
Originally published Jan 15 2015.
My rule of thumb for fertilizing any plant is to do it
when it is actively growing. Spring-flowering
bulbs, like daffodils, tulips and hyacinths fool us
though. They seem to be “actively growing” in
spring when flowers appear. But the truth of the
matter is that the best time to fertilize is when the
foliage first emerges in winter. That’s when the
roots and new foliage is actively growing.
After the plant flowers, the roots decline and can no
longer absorb much fertilizer. So any nutrients you
add then are pretty much wasted on the plant.
If bulbs have been fertilized in the past, there is
often plenty of phosphorus and potassium in the
soil. They can get by with a couple of applications of water-soluble fertilizer (Miracle-Gro,
Peters, etc).
If you think the soil needs phosphorus and potassium, use a complete fertilizer (such as 10-10
-10, etc.) at the rate of 1 lbs. per 100 sq. feet.
This equals 1 rounded teaspoon per sq. foot.
Lawn fertilizers such as 27-3-3 or 30-3-3 can be used, but cut the rate to .4 pounds per 100
square feet. Also make sure the lawn fertilizer does not contain a weed preventer or weed
killer.
Remember to leave the foliage until it dies naturally. The energy in the foliage is transferred
to the bulb as the foliage dies and will help bloom next year.
(Reprinted with permission)
11
What’s the Difference
Between Continuing Ed and Advanced Training?
By: Sheri Dorn
Adapted from the Trellis blog post on November 24, 2014 (To subscribe to Trellis and join
in the conversation, go to http://blog.extension.uga.edu/mgevp and use the “Sign Up” option
on the right-hand side of the screen.)
Individuals are drawn to the MGEV program because of the opportunity to learn about horticulture topics. Staying informed and up-to-date on gardening topics and the latest research
maintains enthusiasm and interest for many MGEVs. Just scanning through the continuing
education entries in MGLOG, it's apparent that MGEVs get their information from many
sources, such as speakers at the meetings of horticultural organizations, including MGEV
organizations; national and international conferences; Extension workshops and presentations; and classes at the many public gardens in the state. This informal instruction on all
things gardening is referred to as continuing education. It serves to keep you fresh and
knowledgeable, usually 30 minutes or an hour at a time.
In 2015, we hosted a research-based update. Grow Strong!, an update specifically for
MGEVs that centers on our state initiative areas, is so important for MGEVs that we offered
it in two locations -- in Macon on January 16 and in Gainesville on January 30. It's pretty
exciting, really, to hear about the latest research and projects of faculty and specialists
across the University! This form of continuing education is intended to get you refreshed
and re-energized about horticulture before we begin the busy spring season.
In Georgia, we have another kind of training for veteran MGEVs. We offer Advanced
Training to individuals who have completed the initial 50 hours of volunteer time and have
some experience under their belt. Advanced Training aims to build skills and develop our
educational programming for the public. It is more than subject-matter lectures. It answers
the statement, “As a result of attending Advanced Training, MGEVs will be able to do XXX
for/in partnership with Extension.”
(cont pg 14)
12
(cont from pg 13)
Advanced Training is somewhat different from continuing education. The trainings are indepth -- almost overwhelming sometimes! They are organized by UGA Extension, most often the State Program Office (SPO), specifically for MGEVs. Certificates are awarded to
individuals who complete the 6-hour Advanced Training sessions, and attendance is recorded in MGLOG by the SPO. Individuals who are really interested in building their expertise can pursue Silver and Gold Star recognition (click here for more information).
The new 2015 line-up for Advanced Training sessions has been posted on our webpage under "News and Events." In response to your requests, we'll be offering several sessions in
the metro area AND we'll repeat the popular 2014 training, "Teaching with Demonstration
Gardens." Look for announcements from Extension Agents and postings through MGLOG
to those eligible to attend. Hope to see you next year!
Advanced Training Schedule
April 15, 2015 – Teaching with Demonstration Gardens, Cobb
County (R, YCG)
May 15, 2015 – Plant Expert Series: Turfgrass, UGA-Griffin (SGL)
June 2015 – Vegetable Diagnostics, Macon (DDT)
July 2015 – Water-Wise Landscape Techniques, Atlanta (WQM)
September 11, 2015 – MG SPROUTS for Youth Audiences, Dahlonega
(YCG)
October 16, 2015 – Plant Expert Series: Native Trees, North Fulton
(UFE, SGL)
(Open to certified, active MGEVs only. Registrations will open 4-6 weeks
prior to training date. Registration information will be distributed through
local Extension Agents/ programs.)
13
READ HERBICIDE LABELS CAREFULLY
TO AVOID KILLING LANDSCAPE PLANTS AND TREES
By Paul Pugliese UGA Extension
An herbicide designed to kill weeds in turfgrass can also kill neighboring trees and shrubs.
Herbicides in the phenoxy chemical class provide broadleaf weed control in lawns, pastures
and hay forages. Some of the more common chemicals in this class include 2,4-D; MCPP;
dicamba; clopyralid; and triclopyr.
Safe for animals but not always for trees and shrubs
These chemicals are considered very safe and leave very few toxicity concerns for animals.
In fact, many of these herbicides are labeled for pasture use and allow for livestock to continue grazing without any restrictions. However, pesticide labels should always be read and
followed to determine if any special precautions should be taken for specific site uses.
Phenoxy herbicides provide selective weed control, which means they control many broadleaf weeds without causing damage to grass. Of course, each product is a little different and
some are labeled for very specific turfgrass types, depending on their tolerance.
The label should be checked for application to a specific lawn type (tall fescue, bermudagrass, zoysiagrass, etc.). If the turfgrass isn't on the label, don't assume the herbicide can be
applied to all lawns.
Unfortunately, phenoxy herbicides don't discriminate between dandelion weeds or any other
broadleaf plants, including many trees and shrubs. So, it's very important to take extra precautions when applying these herbicides near landscaped areas with ornamental plants.
Wind and rain can spread herbicides
Consider the potential for drift damage to nearby plants and avoid spraying herbicides on a
windy day. There is also the potential for movement of these herbicides through runoff and
leaching in the soil. This is why the product label usually warns against spraying within the
root zone of trees and shrubs and never exceeding the maximum application rates listed on
the label.
Many homeowners and landscapers often overlook these label precautions. The information
that is contained on the label can seem somewhat vague to inexperienced applicators.
(cont pg 15)
14
(cont pg 14)
The biggest misconception concerns where the root zone of a tree or shrub exists. The roots
of mature trees and shrubs actually extend well beyond the drip line of the canopy. Research
shows that absorption roots may extend as much as two to three times the canopy width.
Consider spot-spraying to target individual weeds rather than broadcasting applications
across the entire lawn. And never exceed the labeled rate.
In landscapes that contain mature trees and shrubs, phenoxy herbicides may not be the best
choice for weed control. These herbicides may be best reserved for wide-open spaces such
as athletic fields, parks and pastures where tree roots are at a safe distance.
The high potential for herbicide damage to trees is another great reason to protect tree
roots by providing a mulch zone that extends well beyond the drip line of the canopy.
If you're not trying to grow a manicured lawn underneath a tree, then there is no reason to apply phenoxy herbicides there for weed control. (emphasis by editor)
Use the right herbicide for the job
Another way to avoid potential damage is to rely less on phenoxy herbicides. Other classes
of herbicides have less potential to affect the roots of nearby trees and shrubs. Take the time
to identify your weeds and choose a more selective herbicide rather than combination products that usually contain multiple chemicals in the phenoxy class.
Many pre-emergent herbicides can prevent weed problems in lawns. The key is to apply
them at the correct time in spring and fall. Applying too early or too late often provides inadequate weed control and requires additional herbicide applications. Rotating pre-emergent
herbicide classes will avoid the potential for resistant weeds. Also, be sure to apply water to
the area according to the pre-emergent herbicide's label to activate it in the soil.
For more information about the effects of phenoxy herbicides on landscape trees and
shrubs, view the UGA Center for Urban Agriculture webinar at ugaurbanag.com/webinars.
For assistance with weed identification and specific herbicide recommendations, contact
your local UGA Extension office at 1-800-ASK-UGA1 or visit www.Georgiaturf.com.
For more information or to view multimedia associated with this story, click here:
http://georgiafaces.caes.uga.edu/?public=viewStory&pk_id=5376
15
Martha’s Super Suet
1 cup lard (NOT Crisco or other solid vegetable shortening)
1 cup crunchy peanut butter
2 cups of quick-cook oatmeal
2 cups of cornmeal
1 cup white flour
1/3 cup sugar
Melt lard and peanut butter together, then mix in other ingredients. Put into rectangular
baking pan and chill (you might want to use throw-away pans).
Cut into blocks, wrap in saran/waxed paper, store in refrigerator or freezer.
Won’t melt in our summer heat. You may expect cardinals, titmice, chickadees, wrens,
sparrows, warblers and woodpeckers.
Coastal Master Gardener Association Newsletter, Courtesy of Coastal Wild Scapes
“I have been making this for a several years. This Autumn I got lazy and bought some
suet chunks from the store. The birds didn't seem very interested, so I made this recipe.
Ten out of ten birds prefer this to store-bought.
So I have been busy this Winter making it for them. Especially since the raccoons discovered them and stole not only the suet but the suet cages and hangers as well! I mean, I
love all critters - we call the bird feeders "nature feeders" - but they don't have to steal the
containers! So now I bring the food in at dusk and set them out again at dawn”.
~ Carol McCurdy MGEV
March 21 is Master
Gardener Day in
Georgia.
16
17
For a successful festival,
Larry needs volunteers.
If you are interested and willing to work,
please contact Larry at [email protected]
or at 706-327-2067.
Include houseplants
as part of your healthy lifestyle!
Did you know that some houseplants help
remove potentially harmful chemicals - including those in paints, varnishes, dry
cleaning fluids, car exhaust fumes and tobacco smoke - from the air in your home?
The Dracaena and Peace Lily are among the
best plants for removing formaldehyde.
This toxic substance is commonly used in
the construction of buildings and is also often present in considerable quantities in
wood used in furniture.
Some other houseplants that act as natural
air filters are:
18

Calathea

Ferns

Ivy

Philodendrons

Rex Begonia