Winter 2013 - University Library
Transcription
Winter 2013 - University Library
Volume 6, Number 4 Stanislaus Historical Quarterly Winter 2013 Stanislaus County Founded 1854 An Independent Publication of Stanislaus County History Stanislaus County in Transition Steamboats to Bridges and Wheat to Peaches Founding of Stanislaus County 1854 T he year was 1854. The Russians were fighting the British and the French on the Crimean Peninsula. Commodore Matthew Perry’s fleet was anchored at Tokyo Bay, while he was engaged in forging a treaty with Japan. Closer to home, the embryo Republican Party sprang to life at Jackson, Michigan. In California at Fort Humboldt, Ulysses S. Grant resigned from the Army because “he was too familiar with alcohol” and moved to San Francisco where the first U.S. Mint just opened. It was the year when Sacramento became the capital of the Golden State, moving from Benicia, where politicians David Broderick and B.D. Horr huddled furtively with the results being the birth of Stanislaus County. Yes, 1854, a world of intrigue, really not unlike any other year, but significant to us because our county was born. Francisco, where with his political acumen, he quickly became a California state senator. He soon was a powerful legislator and served as Acting Lieutenant Governor for 1851-52. His ambition in becoming a U.S. senator still burned, and he saw an opportunity. At that time, U.S. senators from California were appointed by the California Senate. Broderick introduced a bill in the State Senate to hold the appointment of the next U.S. senator one year early. He felt he had nearly enough state senatorial support to be appointed. He calculated that he needed one more vote to make the vote a tie, in which Lieutenant Governor Purdy, the presiding officer of the State Senate and strong supporter of Broderick, would cast the tie-breaking vote for him. Assemblyman Horr To get the one necessary vote, Broderick needed a new Democratic The birth of Stanislaus County Party state senator. There was a State amounts to a tale of American political Assembly colleague who might produce connivance, tied to the fight for political what he needed. It was B.D. Horr, State power not only in the state but also in Assemblyman of Tuolumne, who the region and the nation. It was the resided near Dickinson’s Ferry along the antebellum age (pre-Civil War) when Stanislaus River, in a tiny settlement states-rights proponents of the South known as Horr’s Ranch (where Roberts Stanislaus County was part of Tuolumne County waged a war of words and some deeds Ferry would be located). Horr introduced until 1854, and Merced County was part of Mariwith those of the North who wanted a bill to establish Merced County from posa County until 1855 abolition of slavery and a strong federal Mariposa and Tuolumne counties, but government. The Democratic Party was there was strong opposition by a mess, divided along sectional lines, and California was not spared Mariposa lawmakers, which could scuttle his legislation. He a bit in the morass. recomposed the bill, and this time he offered legislation that would On the Central Valley plains, some life was still primal. One carve a new county out of Tuolumne County. Its name would be could yet hear the bull elk bellowing for its mate. And just as primal, Stanislaus, the common designation already for the area. This time perhaps, up in Sonora, a miner, let’s call him Tim Horne, was drunk Horr had a petition of support from Tuolumne County’s valley as usual, staggered and fell in the mud and mire of Main Street, residents, wanting the new Stanislaus County. On January 26, 1854, unconscious. However, many conscious citizens of Tuolumne when the legislature was still at Benicia, he introduced the Stanislaus County were saying at the time, “the county was just too dang County bill, which requested the formation of the 15th Senatorial big!” Valley people especially harped that Sonora, the county seat, District and that two of the five assemblymen allotted to Tuolumne was “way up yonder,” too far to travel to transact county business. County would be reassigned to Stanislaus County. There were towns springing up along the four rivers on the valley The bill was sent to the Assembly Committee on Counties floor, wanting to be recognized, wanting more commerce, and their and Boundaries with these members: E.O.F. Hastings of Sutter; bevy of ambitious men itching for political importance. The cattle William S. Letcher of Santa Clara; B.D. Horr of Tuolumne; Pedro C. trails had become roads coursing their way towards the gold fields, Carillo of Santa Barbara; and Martin Rowdan of Calaveras. On crossing the rivers at ferry boat points. It was a period of frontier March 16, 1854, the Assembly passed the bill with some alteration activity not unlike American frontier life elsewhere. And there were and sent it to the Senate. issues concerning the creation of a new county. Was a new county The Senate also amended the bill, striking the request for justifiable or even needed? Those residents of Tuolumne County a new senatorial district, a crippling blow to Broderick. The Senate on the valley’s floor thought so, being represented by Assemblyman passed the legislation on March 27th. Once the Assembly agreed to B.D. Horr, a “doctor-lawyer,” and his political cohort, a former New the amendment, it was sent to Governor John Bigler, who signed it York City politician, David C. Broderick, both men of ambition. on April 1st. Broderick’s goal in life was to be a U.S. senator. In the The new law as amended provided for two assemblymen East, he was associated with the Tammany Hall political apparatus and Tuolumne County would share a state senator in the 7th and was a member of the New York City Fire Department, another Senatorial District; consequently, Broderick’s bill appointing a U.S. political stronghold. He lost a bid for the U.S. Senate, and in anger, senator a year early, lost by one vote in the State Senate. (He was he departed the Eastern Seaboard and headed west to San eventually appointed to serve as a U.S. senator in 1857, but he met Political Strategy ———————— 570 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— death in a duel with California Supreme Court Chief Justice David Terry, a political nemesis, in 1865.) Thus, Broderick lost the U.S. Senate seat, but Stanislaus County was born. Some felt that the new county might fail because of lack of population and inadequate finance. The Stockton Times commented on both the formation of Stanislaus and Merced counties: “The legislation will receive the strength of their counties provided that they could be convinced that the number of inhabitants in the territory set off is sufficient for that purpose. Both these counties (Stanislaus and Merced) may be set off for the convenience of the people, but it may not be pecuniary profitable at the present time. However, the people are presumed to know what they want.” The new law established Stanislaus County’s boundaries: “Commencing on the Stanislaus at the corner of San Joaquin and Calaveras counties; thence running in a southwest course to Spark’s Ferry on the Tuolumne River; thence to the boundary line between Tuolumne and Mariposa counties; thence west along said line to the west direction to the summit of the Coast Range; thence in a southwesterly direction following the summit of said range; thence to the southwest corner of San Joaquin County; thence northeasterly along the line of said county to the place of beginning.” New County Government Winter 2013 in H.W. Wallis as County Judge, with Wallis performing his duties the next day by swearing in the other county officials. He would head the Court of Sessions, a body with duties similar to a board of supervisors. The first meeting of the Court of Sessions was held on July 3, 1854, in the outof-doors near Adamsville, under a large oak tree. The court’s membership consisted of Wallis, who presided, and Eli S. Marvin, Associate Judge, with James Burney being added later as another associate judge. The first matter of business was the establishment of a public road. The first financial decision was the paying of $119 for H.W. Wallis, Stanislaus County’s first stationery supplied by County Judge for the Court of Sesthe business of sions, changed to Board of Supervisors LeCount & Strong. in 1855 Branch illus. What follows are the transcribed minutes from the meetings of 1854 Court of Sessions carrying out the business of the infant Stanislaus County. It provides one with insight into the needs of a new county and life during that early period. A County Board of Commissioners was appointed under the law, with the following membership: G.D. Dickinson, Richard Hammer, John W. Laird, Eli S. Marvin, G.D. and John D. Patterson. The board met on May 29, 1854 at Dickinson’s Ferry , establishing election precincts and appointing election inspectors and judges for an election to be held on Saturday, June 10th. The precincts Court of Sessions’ Minutes were: Arroyo, Burneyville, Empire City, French Bar (La Grange), Graysonville, Hill’s Ferry, Keeler’s Ferry, McHenry’s, Oatvale 1. July 3, 1854 Minutes: [Oakdale], Orestimba, Tuolumne City, and Turner’s Ferry. As made and provided by the Statutes of California, there The number of ballots cast was 495. Adamsville was was a Special Call of the Court of Sessions of Stanislaus County, selected as the county seat (a town which met at Adamsville this 3d day July founded during the winter of 1849-50 AD 1854. Present: H.W. Wallis Judge on the property of Dr. Adams). Winners and Robt McGarvey, Clerk. of the election were: H.W. Wallis, The several Justices of said County Judge; William D. Kirk, Sheriff; County being present proceed to the R. McGarvey, Clerk; W.H. Martin, Election of Associates, Which resulted Treasurer; S.P. Scaniker, Attorney; E.B. in the Election of James Burney and Eli Beard, Assessor and Superintendent of S. Marvin as Associate Judges of Schools; Silas Wilcox, Surveyor; Heath Stanislaus County. The Associate Williams, Coroner; R. McGarvey, Judges qualified and took their seats, Recorder and Auditor; and J.J. Royal, and Court proceeded to business. Public Administrator. Petition of John G. Marvin for Wallis won by two votes a road from Hills Ferry via Empire City whereby his opponent, Thomas Courthouse at Adamsville in 1854, the first county to some point on the Stanislaus River Leggett, challenged the vote stating was, by order of the Court, laid over. seat for Stanislaus County Branch illus. that Wallis had been elected illegally. Petition of Mr. Keeler for renewal of The case was heard by District Court Judge Charles M. Creanor of Ferry License – laid over. Account of Le Count & Strong for Stockton. Wallis was represented by state Whig Party leader, Henry Stationery approved for $109.25 A. Crabb, and Leggett by John G. Marvin. Leggett lost the case. On Motion it was ordered that this County be divided into The Board of Commissioners met at Empire City on June Townships to be named and bounded as follows to wit: 15, 1854 and declared the vote official. The board’s president swore “Burney Township” ———————— 571 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Boundaries: Beginning at the North East Corner of Stanislaus County, running thence along the dividing line of Stanislaus and Tuolumne a distance of one mile thence in a south west course to and including Hartman’s Rancho, thence in a direct line to the San Joaquin River three miles above the mouth of the Stanislaus River, thence down the San Joaquin to the mouth of the Stanislaus River, thence up Stanislaus to place of beginning. “Oakvale Township” [Oakvale was used not Oakdale] Boundaries: Beginning at the South East corner of Burney Township running thence along the line separating Stanislaus from Tuolumne County to the Tuolumne River, thence in a North West course to Hartman’s Rancho, thence along the Southern boundary of Burney Township to the place of beginning. “Branch Township” Boundaries: Beginning at the South East corner of Oakvale Township running along South line of said Township to the place known as Geo. “Hartman’s Ranch,” thence in a direct line to the Northern boundary of Mariposa County crossing, the Tuolumne River at and including Bond’s Ranch, thence along the Mariposa line to the Tuolumne County line, thence along said line to a place of beginning. “Marvin Township” Boundaries: Beginning at Hartman’s Ranch running thence along the southern line of Burney Township to the San Joaquin, thence up the San Joaquin, thence up the San Joaquin to the Mariposa line, thence along said Mariposa line to the South Western corner of Branch Township, thence along the Western line of and Township to the place of beginning. “Oris Timbo Township” [Orestimba was the correct spelling] Boundaries: Beginning at the Junction of the “Arroyo Puerto,” with the San Joaquin River, running thence in a due West direction to the summit of the “Coast Range,” thence along the summit of said range to the Mariposa line (South West corner of Stanislaus County), thence East along the line seperating Stanislaus and Mariposa Counties to the mouth of the Merced River, thence down the San Joaquin to the place of beginning. “Grayson Township” Boundaries: Beginning at the North West Corner of Oris Timbo Township running thence down the San Joaquin River to the San Joaquin County line, thence West along said line to the summit of the “Coast Range,” thence along said range to the North West corner of Oris Timbo Township, thence along the Northern line of said Township to the place of beginning. On Motion it was ordered by the Court that John W. Laird and James D. Sigler be appointed Judges of the plains for this County for the year from sixth of next September. Court adjourned to meet tomorrow at 10, O’clk A M. Approved, H. W. Wallis, County Judge 2. July 4, 1854 Minutes: Winter 2013 Tuesday July 4th 1854 Pursuant to adjournment the Court was called, and adjourned to meet at 10, O’ clk tomorrow. Approved, H.W. Wallis, County Judge 3. July 5, 1854 Minutes: Wednesday July 5th 1854 Pursuant to adjournment the Court met, approved the Minutes of 3d and 4th, and adjournment to meet at Two O’clk P.M. H.W. Wallis Judge, E S Marvin Associate and R. McGarvey Clerk Pursuant to the adjournment the Court met. [Present:] H. W. Wallis Judge and Eli S. Marvin Associate, McGarvey, Clerk. Account of R.M. McGarvey approved for $32,25 cts, being traveling expenses to San Francisco for stationery for the County. On application of John G. Marvin he was allowed to withdraw his petition for a road from Hill’s Ferry via Empire City to some point on the Stanislaus, Court adjourned to Meet at 10, O’clk tomorrow Approved, H.W. Wallis, County Judge - E.S. Marvin, July 7th 1854 4. July 6, 1854 Minutes: Thursday July 6th 1854 In the absence of Judge, Clerk adjourned Court to [meet] 10 O’clk tomorrow. 5. July 7, 1854 Minutes: Friday 7th July 1854 Pursuant to the adjournment Court of Sessions met. [Present:] H.W. Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, R McGarvey Clerk. Minutes of 5th & 6th read and approved. Court Ordered that S.C.[Stanislaus County] thus “SC” be used as the Judicial Brand of thisCounty for the sale of Cattle on Execution. Court Ordered the following Gentlemen appointed supervisors of these several Townships each Township constituting a Road District: Burney District D.B. Gardner Oakvale F. Sotcher Branch Gallant D. Dickerson Marvin John G. Marvin Oris Timbo John M. Newsom Grayson W. Van Benschoten Also Ordered the attention of the several supervisors be called to an act concerning Roads and Highways passed 1850, also the act passed 1853. Court adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M. Pursuant to adjournment Court met. [Present:] H.W. Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, Robt McGarvey Clerk Ordered by the Court that the Sheriff proceed instantly to collect such Licenses, as the Revenue Act of 1854 makes his duty to Collect. Court ordered, and directed the Clerk to procure such seals at the expense of the County as the several Courts may require, devised as follows, viz: For County Court, usual devise, with Coast ———————— 572 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Range in backgrounds, and a man lassoing cow; Court of Sessions, usual devise, Coast Range in backgrounds, and a grizzly bear; Probate Court usual devise with an elk; District Court usual devise, with Coast Range in backgrounds, and man and colt; also to procure at the expense of the County a suitable press. On motion it was ordered by the Court that the Sheriff notify the several ferrymen of this County running without License to be and appear at the Regular Term of the Court to be held in Aug. next, and show cause if any; why such License are not procured. Court adjourned to meet at 10 O’clk tomorrow. H.W. Wallis C.J. E.S. Marvin Assoc. 6. July 8, 1854 Minutes: Saturday, July 8th 1854 Pursuant to adjournment the Court met. [Present:] H.W. Wallis Judge, Eli S. Marvin Associate, and Robt McGarvey Clerk Minutes of last meeting read and approved. Court adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M. Court met pursuant to adjournment and adjourned to meet the regular term August next. H. W. Marvin C.J. E.S. Marvin Assoc. 7. August 7, 1854 Minutes: Pursuant to adjournment the Court of Sessions of Stanislaus County met at Adamsville Monday 11 O’clk August the 7th AD 1854. Present: H.W. Wallis Judge, Elli S. Marvin and James Burney Associates, R. McGarvey, Clerk. On the motion Court adjourned to meet at 2 O’clk P.M. Court met pursuant adjournment. Present: Wallis Judge, Marvin and Burney Associates Court directed an Order to be issued to the Sheriff requiring him to summon thirty-six persons from the citizens of the County to appear on Wednesday the 9th inst. To serve as Grand Jurors in and for this County. On application of William G. Turner of the County of Stanislaus for a License to run a Ferry Boat upon the San Joaquin River at a place known as Turner’s Ferry on said River, it is ordered and determined by the Court of Sessions, that a License be granted to the said Wm. G. Turner to run said Ferry, as prayed for his said petition, upon the payment of $60 into the Treasury, for the term of six months from the 15th day of June last past. It is hereby Ordered by the Court that the several Ferry men on the San Joaquin River, be allowed to collect and receive ferriage for the transportation of travelers, property and affect over the said river after the following rates to wit: Buggy One Dollar and Fifty Cents, Two Horse Wagon the same, all Wagons of larger size Two Dollars, Cattle Twenty-five Cents per head, Mules and loose Horses each Twenty- five Cents a piece, Sheep and Hogs Ten Cents per head, and that they shall not take or require any greater sum for any such transportation. On Motion the Report of the surveyor, On summarizing the dividing line between this and Tuolumne County was laid over. Ordered that Three Hundred Dollars be paid on the Account of S. Wilcox, for Six Hundred Dollars and the account remain on file for further consideration. R. McGarvey’s account for 21.31 Cents – Approved – Ada A. Carter’s Account for Forty Dollars and Twenty-five Cents – Winter 2013 Approved for Thirty Two Dollars On application of Geo. W. Keeler of Stanislaus County, by S.P. Scaniker, his Atty, for a renewal of his Ferry License to run a Boat on the Stanislaus River at a place known on said river as Keeler’s Ferry, it is Ordered and determined by the Court that upon the payment into the treasury of Two Hundred and Twenty-Five Dollars, and filing with the Auditor a Bond in the penal sum of Five Thousand Dollars the Auditor issue to said Keeler a License to run a Ferry as prayed for from one year from the first day of July last past, and he is Authorized to collect the same ferriage now charged at said Ferry On application of Jas. J. Dickinson and Wm. L. Dickinson of the County of Stanislaus by S. P. Scaniker their Atty, for a License to run a Ferry upon the Tuolumne River at a place known on said river as Dickinson’s Ferry. It is hereby Ordered by the Court of Sessions of Stanislaus that upon the payment into the Treasury of this County, of $225 and the filing with the County, Auditor of said County, a Bond payable to this State for Five Thousand Dollars lawful money, that a License be issued to said applicants to run a Ferry as prayed for, for one year from the 15th day of June last past, said Dickinsons to charge the rates now charged at said Ferry. On Application of Jess Hill of Stanislaus County to run a Ferry at a place on the San Joaquin River known as Hill’s Ferry on said river. It is hereby Ordered by the Court of Sessions of said County, that upon the filing a Bond with the Auditor for Five Thousand Dollars, and presentation of the Treasurer’s Receipt for $90 the Auditor issue to said Hill a License to run a Ferry as prayed for until the 13th day of March AD 1854. On Motion the accounts of Benj. Ward, F.H. Ayers, William Hammack, and Edward Young were rejected. On Motion adjourned to meet at 9 O’clk tomorrow. H.W. Wallis C.J. E J Marvin A.J. James Burney, A.J. Aug 8th AD 1854 Written by Robert LeRoy Santos Stanislaus Historical Quarterly Stanislaus Historical Quarterly is published four times a year, featuring freshly researched articles on Stanislaus County history. Currently, there is no charge per subscription or individual issues, but readers must notify the editor to be placed on the mailing list. Ideas for articles or historical information concerning topics of county history may be sent to the editor. This is a non-profit educational publication. Stanislaus Historical Quarterly is edited, copyrighted, and published by Robert LeRoy Santos, Alley-Cass Publications, Tel: 209.634.8218. Email: [email protected]. Ellen Ruth Wine Santos is assistant editor and proofreader. ———————— 573 ———————— Chronology of Stanislaus County History Through 1912 P re-European. In the area to be known as Stanislaus County, lived the Yokuts on the San Joaquin Valley plain and the Miwoks at the county’s eastern boundary in the Sierra foothills. October 1776. Spanish military officer Jose Joaquin Moraga traveled east from San Francisco and entered the San Joaquin Valley, exploring for three days, writing this description: “a great treeless, level plain, where no water was in evidence, while overhead the rays of the sun made themselves uncomfortably felt.” It is not known if he entered the Stanislaus County area or not. October 1806. Spanish Military officer Gabriel Moraga (son of Jose Joaquin Moraga) explored the inland region of central California and is considered the first European to explore the area to be known as Stanislaus County. He named the Stanislaus River “Rio de Nuestra Senora Guadalupe.” Gabriel Moraga returned in 1808 and again in 1810, to explore the inland area further. May 1829. Two battles took place along the Stanislaus River between Mexican soldiers, led by M.G. Vallejo, and native people, led by ex-San Jose Mission Indian, Estanislao. Estanislao was given his name by the mission padres in honor of Polish saint, St. Stanislaw. The probable battle sites were between today’s Oakdale and Riverbank. Winter 1826-1827. American trapper, Jedediah Smith, with 15-20 men, traveled through the area to be known as Stanislaus County. 1829-1830. American trapper, Ewing Young, along with 20-year old Kit Carson, traveled through the area to be known as Stanislaus County. 1833. American trapper, Joseph Walker, traveled through the area to be known as Stanislaus County, with an expedition of 60 men who were sent by U.S. Captain Bonneville from the Great Salt Lake area. 1843. The first settlements, in the area later to be known as Stanislaus County, were in the form of Mexican land grants. In November 1843, Mexican Governor Micheltorena granted land to Valentin Higuera and Rafael Feliz, which became known as Rancho El Pescadero, having 34,446 acres, located west of the San Joaquin River, bordering San Joaquin County. In December 1843, the governor granted land to Francisco Rica and Jose Castro, which became known as Rancheria del Rio Estanislao, having 48,887 acres, located north of Stanislaus River, bordering Tuolumne County. 1844. Two additional land grants were sanctioned by the Mexican governor. In January 1844, the governor granted land to Mariano Hernandez, which became known as Rancho del Puerto, having 13,340 acres, located west of the San Joaquin River and south of Rancho Pescadero. In February 1844, the Mexican governor granted land to Sebastian Nunez, which became known as Rancho Orestimba, having 26,666, located west of the San Joaquin River and south of Rancho Pescadero. March 27 - April 1, 1844. Captain John C. Fremont explored the region to be known as Stanislaus County, while on a mapping expedition for the U.S. Government. He wrote, “We came suddenly upon the Stanislaus River and hoped to find a ford, but the river was flowing by dark, deep, and swift, swollen by the mountain snows.” Fremont traveled through the region again in 1846 on his second expedition. June 13, 1846. Mexican Governor Pio Pico granted land to Alfias Basilia Thompson, which would become known as Thompson’s Eight Square Leagues or Thompson Rancho Land Grant or Thompson’s Ranch, having 35,570 acres, located west of Rancheria del Rio Estanislao. It overlapped both sides of the Stanislaus River to include today’s Oakdale, Riverbank, Valley Home, and Woodrow Reservoir. A legal problem arose since Pico granted the land to Thompson a month after the United States declared war on Mexico, but prominent Americans in California testified that Thompson had accepted the land in good faith and hence retained title. The Land Commission fixed the date of July 7, 1846 as the end of Mexican authority in California, which meant Thompson’s claim was legal having been granted the land nearly a month before Mexican authority had ceased. 1847. Sam Brannan brought 20 Mormon settlers to an 80-acre site in today’s San Joaquin County, 1½ miles northeast of the junction of the Stanislaus and San Joaquin rivers. The settlement was named New Hope, with settlers planting wheat on both sides of the Stanislaus River, which included future Stanislaus County. Mormon President Brigham Young disagreed with Brannan that Mormons should settle at New Hope instead of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake. New Hope was abandoned in the fall of 1847, with the settlers traveling to Utah or remaining in California when gold was discovered the next year. 1849. Grayson or Graysonville was founded by a company of seven men, which included John Westley Van Benscroten and Andrew Jackson Grayson. It was located on the west bank of the San Joaquin River near the mouth of the Stanislaus River. The town was named for Grayson because he was the oldest member of the company. Grayson was a native of Louisiana, active in the Mexican War of 1846, and an authority on Pacific Coast birds. Van Benscroten was a native of New York City and came to California with Captain Fremont in 1846. Paxton McDowell and Major R.D. Hammond founded Tuolumne City, which was located five miles upstream from the San Joaquin River and on the north bank of the Tuolumne River. Dr. Adams founded the town of Adamsville, on the south bank of the Tuolumne River, three miles above Tuolumne City. Either Benson, Byers or Townsend founded the town of Crescent City, on the north bank of the Tuolumne River, near the site of present day Modesto. The Stanislaus River town of Knights Ferry was founded on the north bank by trapper and hunter William Knight. Knight had been with Fremont’s expedition and felt the site perfect for a ferry crossing. The first county bridge was located at Knights Ferry, which washed away during 1862 flood but rebuilt. Early 1850s. There were many settlements and river ferries located along the three rivers in the Stanislaus County. Hillgard and Burman Ferry occupied a site west of Salida on the Stanislaus ———————— 574 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— ———————— 575 ———————— Winter 2013 Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— River, with Murphy’s Ferry being further upstream. Major Burney’s Burneyville Ferry was at present day Riverbank where the current bridge stands. Further up the river at Lover’s Leap stood Keeler’s Ferry and further up was Knights Ferry. On the Tuolumne River, beginning near the junction with the San Joaquin River to the Tuolumne County line were the following ferries and settlements: Tuolumne City, Paradise City, Adamsville, Westport Landing, Whitmore Ferry (Modesto), Empire City, Baker’s Ferry (Waterford), Dickinson’s Ferry (Robert’s Ferry), and La Grange. On the San Joaquin River, beginning at the Merced County line were the ferries: Hill’s Ferry, Blair’s Ferry, Russell’s Ferry, Ward’s Ferry, and Turner’s Ferry. 1850. John S. Marvin, a lawyer from Boston, founded the river town of Empire City, on the south bank of the Tuolumne River, where the Santa Fe Railroad bridge is today. Hill’s Ferry began operation just north of the junction of the Merced and San Joaquin rivers, on Rancho Orestimba. May 1850. The side-wheel steamboat, Georgiana, was the first steamboat to enter what would be Stanislaus County. It traveled to Grayson and Tuolumne City. September 9, 1850. California was admitted as a state to the U.S. and was divided into 29 counties. Stanislaus County was part of Tuolumne County until 1854. January 16, 1851. The first marriage took place in what would be Stanislaus County, when N.W. Wells married Fanny Grunell. Rev. James Woods from the First Presbyterian Church in Stockton performed the marriage ceremony. 1852. French Bar or La Grange was founded. Elam Dye located his rancho along the Tuolumne River, which would be the site of booming town of La Grange. About the same time, French miners struck gold on a bar in the river (French Bar), which drew more miners, and by 1854 there were over hundred buildings in the new town of La Grange. 1854. The county’s first public school opened in the community of Newsom’s Bridge on Orestimba Creek. April 1, 1854. California Governor Bigler signed into law the establishment of Stanislaus County, which was formed from Tuolumne County, having a population of less than a thousand residents. June 10, 1854. The first county election was held, with Adamsville bein selected as the county seat by thirty votes over Empire City. Adamsville was founded in 1849 by the county’s first practicing physician, Dr. David Adams, having a hotel, ferry and a few residences. H.W. Wallis was elected County Judge; William D. Kirk for County Sheriff; Robert McGarvey for Clerk and Recorder; and S.P. Scaniker for District Attorney. July 3, 1854. The first meeting of the County Court of Sessions (Board of Supervisors) was held under an oak tree with these members in attendance: County Judge H.W. Wallis, Major James Burney and Eli S. Marvin. August 7, 1854. The first murder was recorded in the county, which occurred at Adamsville. It was a gun duel between ex-sheriff of Tuolumne County, George Worth, and Eli Lyons in which Worth was fatally wounded. The dispute arose over the June election in which H.W. Wallis was elected County Judge. October 21, 1854. An election was held, which moved Winter 2013 the county seat from Adamsville to Empire City, by a margin of 29 votes. Empire City was founded in 1850 and in 1854 consisted of over 200 residents. May 7, 1855. The first meeting of the County Board of Supervisors, formerly County Court of Sessions, was held at Empire City. Members of the board were: D.B. Gardner, John Newsom, and Robert Smith, with R. McGarvey serving as clerk. December 20, 1855. An election was held moving the county seat from Empire City to La Grange by a vote of 558 to 139. La Grange was a mining town, having significantly more population and wealth than Empire City. 1859. Settlers led by W.W. Baker founded the community of Bakersville on the south bank of the Tuolumne River, with his family moving shortly to the north bank. Bakersville was changed to Waterford, because the postal system thought Bakersville too common of a name. September 1859. The first newspaper in the county appeared and was called the Knights Ferry Bee, published by W.J. Collier. It was printed every Saturday morning, being four pages long, and selling for 25 cents a copy. 1861. The first county militia was formed at Knights Ferry and was known as the Knights Ferry Mounted Rifle Company. Winter 1861-1862. County rivers flooded significantly, inundating many river settlements. September 3, 1862. An election was held moving the county seat from La Grange to Knights Ferry. In 1860, legislation sponsored by State Assemblyman Minor Walden of Stanislaus County, became law annexing Knights Ferry into Stanislaus County. The county was suffering financially and needed a boost from Knights Ferry, which was prosperous and center of trade to the southern mines. A year earlier on September 4, 1861, an election was held, but La Grange retained the county seat by a vote of 422393. 1867. John W. Mitchell, local rancher of wealth, founded Paradise City, which was located 4 miles above Tuolumne City on the Tuolumne River. May 1868. Banner wheat crop. The wheat crop yielded 2,317,652 bushels with many ranches harvesting 50-70 bushels an acre. In the next two decades, the county would produce significant crops to be sent worldwide. May 1869. The clearing of debris from the Stanislaus River, beginning at Burneyville (Riverbank) to the San Joaquin River was completed. This allowed steamboat travel up the river to Burneyville with less danger though the Stanislaus River saw far less river traffic than San Joaquin and Tuolumne rivers. September 22-24, 1869. The first county fair was held at Covert’s Hall in Tuolumne City, where needlework and other home crafts were displayed along with samples of wheat and barley. Horse racing was held at Miner Walden’s track, two miles west of Tuolumne City, with Bartholomew’s Circus providing entertainment. 1870. Salida was founded as a railroad station when construction of the Central Pacific Railroad reached that point. Salida in Spanish means departure. The original settlement nearby was Murphy’s Ferry on the Stanislaus River. March 1870. California fencing law now extended through Stanislaus County requiring cattlemen to fence in their stock, keeping ———————— 576 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— ———————— 577 ———————— Winter 2013 Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— them off the wheat ranches. There were over 18,500 cattle in the county in 1860. November 8, 1870. The construction of the Central Pacific Railroad reached a station to be named after railroad director and financier William C. Ralston, but Ralston turned down the honor, and the station instead was named Modesto, which is Spanish for “modest.” Merchants moved their businesses and buildings from the towns of Paradise, Tuolumne, Empire, and Westport to Modesto, and by February 1871, there were 75 buildings in the new railroad town. 1871. Construction of the Central Pacific Railroad reached a station to be named after local landowner John W. Mitchell, which he declined and suggested naming it Turlough (The Lake), a town in Mayo County, Ireland. The new railroad town was then named Turlock. Valley Home and Oakdale were founded as new stations for the Copperopolis and Visalia Railroad. Construction had begun on a canal of the San Joaquin and King’s River Canal and Irrigation Company to transport irrigation water from Fresno County to the west side of the Stanislaus County. September 6, 1871. An election was held that moved the county seat from Knights Ferry to Modesto. The results were: 893 votes for Modesto, 340 Knights Ferry, 79 Oakdale, 12 Waterford, 3 La Grange and 2 Graysonville. The County Board of Supervisors officially designated Modesto as the county seat on October 15, 1871. April 15, 1873. The first county grange was chartered and located in Modesto. J.D. Spencer (local newspaper editor) was elected to be the First Master. July 14, 1873. The new county courthouse in Modesto was opened. It was a rectangular three-story brick and stucco building, costing $60,000. 1874. Ceres was founded as a station of the Southern Pacific Railroad. Elma Carter, daughter of early settler Levi Carter, selected its name. Daniel Whitmore had informally called the area Ceres, Roman goddess of agriculture, because of the fine crops grown there. April 2, 1875. William Dona was executed on the county courthouse grounds in Modesto for the saloon shooting of James Connolly. The scaffolding was borrowed from San Joaquin County and was surrounded by a high board fence to screen out the public, except for certain witnesses prescribed by law. October 6, 1875. A jackrabbit drive was organized near Turlock in which 413 rabbits were killed. The rodent had become an irritating nuisance to farming, because it ate grain sprouts and seed. 1877. Lack of winter rain virtually destroyed the county’s grain crop. One writer described the condition: “In 42 miles there was not a spear of green grass or a blade of wheat to be seen. The isolated farmhouses presented an aspect of poverty. Many of them are deserted, and the farmers and their families have gone to other places to find employment. Some of the farmers, more fortunate, have wells of water, and their farms are quite thrifty around their dwellings.” August 14, 1879. A group of vigilantes raided Modesto saloons and other buildings of vice to clean up the town and institute law and order. Winter 2013 July 20, 1884. Fire destroyed 5,000 acres of grain near Oakdale. 1887. The towns of Westley and Newman were founded as stations along the newly laid tracks of the San Pablo and Tulare Railroad. The river town of Crows Landing moved four miles west to reside along the newly laid tracks. The residents of Hill’s Ferry and Dutch Corners moved to the new railroad town of Newman, named for Simon Newman, a major businessman and land owner. Westley received its name in memory of John Westley Van Benschoten, a butcher who came with Fremont, served in the Mexican War of 1846 and settled in the county in 1850. October 29, 1887. An infantry company of young men, known as the Modesto Cadets, officially joined the state’s National Guard. March 1887. The Wright Act became law, which led to the formation of the Turlock Irrigation District and Modesto Irrigation District. 1891. The community of Claribel was founded as well as Hickman, Montpelier and Waterford as stations along Stockton and Visalia Railroad tracks. 1893. La Grange Dam was completed to provide irrigation water to the county. The dam was 336 feet long and 127 feet high. 1896. The communities of Claus, Riverbank and Empire were founded along the San Francisco & San Joaquin Valley Railroad tracks, which soon became the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railroad. June 6, 1897. Turlock Irrigation District was formed, followed by Modesto Irrigation District on June 9th. 1901. An annex to the county courthouse was completed, known as the Hall of Records, costing $27,000. 1907. The communities of Hughson and Denair were founded as stations along the Santa Fe Railroad line. Denair, formerly Elmwood Colony, was named after landowner, John Denair. Hughson was named after Hiram Hughson, who owned the land at one time. July 7, 1906. A fire near Newman destroyed 2,500 acres of grain and 20,000 acres of pasture, along with stored hay, farm equipment and buildings. 1909. The Oakdale Irrigation District was formed, and with its Goodwin Dam being completed on April 6, 1913. 1910. Patterson was founded. September 12, 1911. A new 52-inmate jail, costing $50,873, was opened in Modesto. 1912. The Modesto Arch, costing $1,200 in donations, was erected having the slogan “Water, Wealth, Contentment, Health.” Prepared by Robert LeRoy Santos ———————— 578 ———————— Stanislaus County: Early Years Crescent City and Empire City Ever wonder what Stanislaus County once looked like before the farms, houses, businesses, manufacturers, endless automobiles, and massive commercialism? We can dip into the historical record and pull out descriptions, which is one of the most telling methods. Or, we can obtain snatches of its raw composition when traveling along the railroad tracks following a train on a hot summer day with the dust swirling and the dried indigenous flora stiffly swishing in the gale of wind. The evidence projects a vision of dry and harsh plains, a vast wasteland, nearly devoid of life during the summer. This changed in the late fall, winter, and spring when rainfall brought flooding from the swollen tributaries, changing the summer-dried soil to fields of wet soil, collecting pools, and mud. During the springtime, the desert was covered with grasses and carpeted with wildflowers, where animal life of all types lived and birds flew in abundance. Ever gaze at the Stanislaus, Tuolumne or San Joaquin rivers, while crossing a bridge? There is mystique there, a whisper of the distant past that takes one back in time. Sure, humanity has changed the county’s environment, and that also is reflected in the meandering streams, but there is still the wavering current, the shadowing trees, shrubbery lazily overhanging the banks, the water reaching for the shores, and the shallow sand bars jutting out exhibiting their neat clean grit. And the wildlife, though tragically reduced, appear and disappear in a moment. That is the county’s past revealing itself, a sample of a land controlled by water. Spanish explorer Pedro Fages described it in spring 1774: “The plain is thickly populated, having many and large rancherias [Indian settlements]; and it abounds in grain, deer, bears, geese, ducks, cranes; indeed, every kind of animal, terrestrial and aerial.” He named the river he saw the Rio de la San Francisco (St. Francis River), which later was renamed the San Joaquin River for St. Joachim, the father of the Virgin Mary. Two years later in 1776, explorers Juan Bautista de Anza, Jose Joaquin Moraga, and Father Pedro Font traveled along the San Joaquin River and then marched three days due east, turning around where Church and Milnes roads intersect east of Modesto. They saw herds of tule elk and described them this way: “A large herd of the large deer, which in New Mexico I think they call burros. They are some seven spans (five feet) high and have antlers about two varas (five feet) long, with several branches.” In the year 1806, explorers Spanish Army Lt. Don Gabriel Moraga and Father Pedro Munoz, trekked along the Stanislaus River and then headed south between today’s Salida and Riverbank, crossing the Tuolumne River near future Empire City, and then traveling east of current Hughson. They originally named the Stanislaus River, Our Lady of Guadalupe, and the Tuolumne River, Our Lady of Dolores (Sorrows). In March 1844, John C. Fremont explored the Stanislaus River downstream, beginning somewhere between today’s Knights Ferry and Oakdale. He wrote this on March 27th: “During the earlier part of the day, our ride had been over a very level prairie, or rather a succession of long stretches of prairie, separated by lines and groves of oak timber, growing along dry gullies, which are filled with water in season of rain; and, perhaps, also, by the melting snows. Over much of this extent, the vegetation was sparse; the surface showing plainly the action of water, which, in the season of flood, the [San] Joaquin [River] spreads over the valley. The California poppy, of a rich orange color, was numerous today. Elk and several bands of antelope made their appearance. We came suddenly upon the Stanislaus River, where we hoped to find a ford, but the stream was flowing by, dark and deep, swollen by the mountain snows.” Gold Rush Era Fremont’s description portrays an idyllic countryside, a picture of creation, which was inviting to both American and the indigenous population. But this land of innocent pristine nature was soon subjected to American exploitation from raw frontier opportunists and rich urban investors with the original attraction being gold. California offered instant wealth to the early gold rush adventurers, who used their newly found riches to finance gold rush related businesses and to purchase cheap land. This was part of the Western Movement, an American phenomenon driven by land and business opportunities. To access the southern gold fields of the Sierra, miners crossed the San Joaquin Valley and its many tributaries. Ferry boat businesses sprung up at places of opportunity, where there was a low river bank with linkage to the main roads. These ferries were not objects of beauty, or by any means sizeable. They were merely small barges, which were pulled across the rivers by ropes that were anchored on both sides of the waterway. Travelers paid for this convenience rather than risk crossing on Typical San Joaquin Valley steamboat their own. The that traveled up the Stanislaus River to proprietor of a ferry Crescent City MacMullen illus. carried a county license and many times spawned a small settlement to provide travelers with overnight accommodations, restaurants, stables, blacksmith shops and other services. Stanislaus County ferries existed for a few months, a few years, or a decade or so, depending upon their location to main arteries of travel, fading completely when bridges were constructed. Steamboats were another conveyance important to the area and only serviceable when the water was deep enough and obstructions cleared for travel. The first steamboats sought to locate what was termed as the “head of navigation,” or the point on the ———————— 579 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— river where steamboat travel could begin, which varied with the season. Providing passenger service wasn’t the motivating force behind steamboats. It was the movement of freight and the establishment of a river depot and subsequently a town for commercial purposes. Among many, two such depots were found in 1849-1850 on the Tuolumne River at Crescent City and Empire City, just east of today’s Modesto. They were in sight of each another, with Crescent City resting on the north bank and Empire City on the south bank, but both were doomed to early failure. Their short history is important to the understanding of frontier Stanislaus County in its earliest beginnings, demonstrating that rivers have always been important to the county. Today rivers are used for irrigation and electric, and back then, for travel. Winter 2013 thinking that it will never be profitable to carry steam further up than this point [Tuolumne City] and I am sure that at some seasons of the year it is impossible to do so; for it is an enterprising attempt, to which I say success.” Tuolumne City was three miles from the mouth of the Tuolumne River, where it emptied into the San Joaquin River. From there it was 26 miles on the San Joaquin River to Stockton on a meandering waterway. Undaunted with probable failure, Crescent City owners posted this advertisement in the July 27, 1850 issue of the Sonora Herald: “Crescent City – This place has been surveyed and laid out in lots for business purposes, at the head of navigation on the Tuolumne River, 30 miles [14 miles in actuality] from its mouth, accessible at all Crescent City Edward S. Benson, John Benson and J.S. Byers founded seasons of the year for steamboats and vessels of light draft of Crescent City either in late 1849 or early 1850. Its success was water. Several houses have been erected and arrangements made determined by its accessibility to steamboat travel from Stockton. for a regular steam communication with San Francisco. People bound to the southern The steamer, Etna, mines will find this to left Stockton in late be the most desirable April 1850 to begin point for landing what was hoped to be their goods, as this routine semiweekly town is situated on trips to Crescent City. the northern bank of A Stockton Times the Tuolumne on the newsman was aboard side towards Sonora, and reported in the Jamestown, Woods May 4th issue: Creek, and four-fifths of the southern “The Etna mines district. Good encountered no road accessible at all difficulty in the seasons of the year navigation; indeed it Map showing the location of Crescent City and Empire City lead from this point may be truly said that RLS illus. t o S o n o r a , between Crescent and Tuolumne cities the river is well adapted for steamers. The time Jamestown, Hawkins Bar, Mercedes, Mariposa and Agua Frio. was most agreeably passed, being divided in enjoying the rich Merchants who may wish to establish a trading house will be woodland scenery and the pleasant and humorous society of Mr. accommodated with lots on the most liberal terms, and all who may Benson, one of the proprietors of Crescent City and our enterprising wish to invest in any town on the Tuolumne are recommended Captain, Mr. Dunbar, who earned our warmest praise for his before purchasing to make a personal examination of this place indefatigable exertions in behalf of our comfort and our rapid transit with reference to its comparative merits as a location for a city and to Crescent City, where towards evening we moored behind a bank its position for trade with the southern mines. For particulars apply ascending perpendicularly upwards to the extent of about 15 feet. at this office.” Having gained the top of the bank we were greeted with the warm The founders of Crescent City were also unable to secure welcome of the residents. The land, east, descends with a gentle declivity to a lower level where a Ferry is established affording a county ferry license. How much did Crescent City develop? In the constant operation to the inhabitants. Above the town from the 1921 publication History of Stanislaus County, author George H. south side of the river projects a prominent gravel bar which entirely Tinkham wrote: precludes the possibility of ascending up the river, except as at “In the fall of 1849, Crescent City was founded on the north bank of present, high stages of the river.” the Tuolumne by Benson & Byers. They laid off the town one mile Another Stockton Times reporter writing from Tuolumne square, had a lithographed map made in New York, and furnished the real estate dealers in the cities with copies of the growing town. City, 11 miles downstream, on May 16, 1850, claimed: The proprietors advertised that the town was thirty miles above the “I suppose that you are aware that the little steamer Etna’s last mouth of the Tuolumne River: “The town has been accurately attempt to get up to Crescent City proved abortive. I cannot help surveyed and laid out and several large buildings are about to be ———————— 580 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— erected.” Many lots were sold, said a visitor, but no improvements were made, and the proposed city comprised of a long cabin covered with canvas. The only inhabitants of the place were the proprietors and about a dozen hunters and boatmen. Steamers tried to steam up to the town, but failed. It was the finishing blow to Crescent City.” Empire City Winter 2013 it and on the opposite side are oaks and willows on the margin, skirted behind by a green bluff of grass and flowers, rising fifty to seventy-five feet in a half mile. . . . I have no doubt that here will rise a city which will be world-famous for its size an importance. So you may remember my prediction for the town named Crescent City [Empire City], Tuolumne River, California. . . . A Mr. Jenkins and his wife, first settlers, were there at the commencement of the survey of the plot and Mrs. Jenkins, being the first female in the town, drove the first and centre stake for laying out the town. When I left, a Mr. Flint and James Kennedy were surveying it at twelve dollars per day and board. . . . Yesterday at 10, Sid and I crossed the river and mounted on three good mules passed over Dry Creek by fording and then to the Stanislaus and ford and then down its banks four miles to a ranch, thence a boat here. . . . This is truly a great country destined to be densely populated and rich beyond calculation. Your ever affectionate and loving father, E.S. Townsend” Empire City was founded a mile or so up the river from the botched settlement of Crescent City. It was on the south bank, near the point where today’s Santa Fe Railroad bridge crosses the Tuolumne River. For at least a month, there was some confusion as to Empire City’s real name. It was called Crescent City at first by some and then Crescent City Secundo, but Empire City quickly became its official name. The founders were E.S. Townsend, Jr. and Edmund P. Hart. Some considered John G. Marvin, a longtime supporter of Empire City, as being the founder. The Stockton Times In subsequent correspondence newsman who described Crescent City Townsend used only “Empire City” and above also wrote on May 4, 1850: makes no reference to “Crescent City” “Having spent a very merry evening again. He left California in November 1850 with Mr. Townsend, Jr. and Mr. Hart from for his New Jersey home, never to return. a rival city [Empire City] on the opposite Hart, the other founder of Empire City, bank two miles higher up.” In a letter to moved to Mariposa County, but his invalid daughter living in Trenton, reappeared in Empire City in 1852 to New Jersey, Townsend switched the operate a ferry. names of the two settlements in his A prominent figure living in communication, demonstrating the Above is Empire City showing one store and early Empire City was 34 year-old John confusion with its name. He wrote the residence, located near today’s Lakewood MeGage Marvin. He left New York City on letter on April 21, 1850 from San Joaquin morial Park . The roadway in upper right would July 7, 1849 for California, where he was City, located near the confluence of the be today’s Santa Fe Road. Below is Empire City a Boston lawyer and school teacher. He San Joaquin and Stanislaus rivers: Ferry, near where today’s bridge is located. The and a partner published Sonora’s first covered wagon would be coming from Tynan’s newspaper, with Marvin being elected in “My Dear Isabella: ranch, heading south across the Tuolumne River May 1850 as a justice of the peace in I have been up to Crescent City [Empire by the ferry. Branch Illus. Tuolumne County, which included City] and have come down here [San Stanislaus County at the time. In the meantime, he bought lots in Joaquin City] in company with Sidney [his son] and Ed Hart on Empire City and held a ferry license for a Tuolumne River crossing mules and am waiting for the boat, to return with her to San at the settlement. He was elected Francisco. . . . Crescent City California State Superintendent of [Empire City] is a beautiful Schools and died in 1857 location right at the edge of the prematurely from poor health in gold field [30 or 40 miles to the Honolulu. Marvin was described east] and in all respects as I could as a “man who got around,” which wish it to be. Very many of those was obvious considering his who bought lots have been there considerable exploits and his early invariably, without a single demise. exception, all are pleased and Winter and spring many have bargained for more flooding was the enemy of valley lots. The town is at the head of settlements. The flood of 1852 navigation. A rocky bar crosses wiped out Empire City, but it was the river at the upper end of the rebuilt in 1853 by Marvin and his brother Eli, who was a man of town plot. . . . The site of the city is a beautiful plain dotted with wealth. Eli’s wife, Elizabeth, and adopted daughter resided in Empire oaks, rising in a mile forty feet gentle ascent. The river winds around ———————— 581 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Winter 2013 City with him. He purchased the ferry from his brother for $2,000 investment. In the 1892 publication, A Memorial and Biographical and built a hotel of pre-cut materials that had been shipped around History of the Counties of Merced, Stanislaus, Calaveras, Tuolumne the horn. It was named “Traveler’s Rest” and became a local and Mariposa California, this appeared in part about him: attraction. Tinkham records that in the winter of 1854, “The place [Empire City] is being rapidly built up and there is a great demand “He retired from active [medical] practice fifteen years ago, but is for carpenters and other mechanics. Mr. Ziegler has opened a store still engaged in grain growing and stock ranching. His property is on Main Street. The [Stanislaus County] courthouse, a fine and located on the Tuolumne River in Stanislaus County. He cultivates capacious building, and eight other buildings have been erected. A from 2,500 to 3,000 acres, principally in grain. He also owns a valuable few weeks ago not a drop of alcohol could be found in the place but residence and business property in Modesto, among which is a handsome three-story brick edifice [Tynan Hotel] on H and Tenth now whiskey shops are everywhere” Eli Marvin was a politician, becoming a member of the streets. This magnificent block was completed in 1890.” commission that would carve Stanislaus County from Tuolumne In 1862, Dr. Tynan married Eli Marvin’s widow, Elizabeth. County. He also was elected Stanislaus County Associate Justice for the first Court of Sessions [Board of Supervisors]. Once At that time Dr. Tynan lived on his ranch across the river from Stanislaus County was created, the Marvin brothers embarked on a Empire City. He was practicing medicine and had 600 acres of ranchland. Another flood, this one in mission to bring the county seat to 1862, demolished Empire City, requiring Empire City. In the first county election, Elizabeth and Dr. Tynan to rebuild their held June 10, 1854, Adamsville was residence there. For the next few years, selected over Empire City. The brothers until Elizabeth’s death in 1881, the two then offered to build a new courthouse amassed 3,300 acres of land. Her if the county seat was moved to Empire daughters maintained grudgingly that City. They promised a $10,000 bond for Dr. Tynan had married their mother the construction of the new building. originally for her wealth. They felt that County voters were persuaded, voting they should inherit her estate and to relocate the county seat at Empire contested the matter in court. The judge City in the October 21, 1854 election. ruled against their claim, awarding the But ultimately, the courthouse was not full estate to Dr. Tynan.Through constructed, with the Court of Sessions investments, Dr. Tynan built his assets meeting in a rustic building not much to $160,000 by 1893. The Tynan Hotel larger than the one found at the first in Modesto was his showcase and county seat of Adamsville. The move considered equal to any hotel in San to Empire City was short lived, because Tynan Hotel on I Street in Modesto, built for Francisco. the voters relocated the county seat in $20,000 in 1890 by Dr. Tynan. Later its name In 1888, the widower Dr. Tynan La Grange in the December 20, 1855 was changed to the State Hotel Maino photo married a much younger woman, Julia election. As noted earlier, John G. Marvin died in 1857, and now Eli joined him in death in 1860. Eli’s Mary Winters, receiving his step-daughters’ immediate disapproval. wife Elizabeth and two daughters, continued to operate the family Apparently, financial difficulties and stressful family circumstances began to get the better of him. In 1892, he wrote a note to his wife properties in Empire City. that he would return in a couple of days, drew out $5,000 from his bank account, telling the clerk that it was for improvements on his Dr. Thomas E. Tynan On April 17, 1850, John Marvin filed a claim for land property, and disappeared. Shortly, because of his wealth, his young diagonally across the river, on the north bank. Edward Conway, wife and his step-daughters wanted the court to proclaim him dead, who was the surveyor of Crescent City and first postmaster of with his wife informing the court that her husband had enemies and Empire City, also filed a claim that overlapped with Marvin’s. They someone had killed him. The court agreed and pronounced him settled their conflict and became business partners in a hay dead. Before disappearing, Dr. Tynan drew up a will granting his business. Conway eventually established a clear claim to the land wife his entire estate. The step-daughters challenged it and won and sold it to William D. Kirk who then resold the land to Dr. Thomas three-fifths of estate, only to lose it when Mrs. Tynan took the E. Tynan in 1853. Dr. Tynan had a fascinating life. matter to the California State Supreme Court where she was declared He was a native of New York City, who attended school in sole inheritor. Things did not end there in this convoluted twist of Ohio and received a medical degree from Center College in Danville, events. In 1894, Dr. Tynan was found in Boston working as a Kentucky in 1848. Serving as the ship’s surgeon on the Mary Anna, spiritualist. He confirmed that he had been driven away by family he arrived in San Francisco in May 1850. For a time he was a miner matters, but he returned to Stanislaus County, upon which he in Calaveras and Tuolumne counties, coming to what soon would immediately had the court proclaim him “undead,” so he could be Stanislaus County in 1852. He practiced medicine from Pacheco continue with his financial affairs. He died a second and final time Pass to La Grange until 1877, when he became a fulltime rancher, in 1898 at the age of 80. Written by Robert LeRoy Santos now devoting all of his effort towards his growing ranching ———————— 582 ———————— Hill’s Ferry Frontier Settlement and Crossroads J ust north of the confluence of the Merced and San Joaquin rivers once stood the pioneer settlement of Hill’s Ferry. At one time it was a major stop for steamboats and had the largest population in Stanislaus County. Its origination was the Gold Rush, when miners needed to travel quickly to the southern gold fields. To get there they needed to cross the San Joaquin Valley’s rivers that were wild and treacherous, unfettered by today’s dams. A natural crossing was the Hill’s Ferry location for miners exiting Pacheco Pass from the coast. Ferryboat Crossing On June 14, 1862, Hill’s Ferry license was renewed under the name of William Wilson and his son, Richard M. Wilson. Later on the Wilsons fell in disfavor with the county by not renewing their license and were indicted on March 8, 1865 by a grand jury. On May 23rd, they paid $108.33 to the county in fees. (The Wilson family came to California from Michigan by way of the Isthmus of Panama, arriving in San Francisco on April 21, 1857. They eventually owned three ranches in the area, consisting of wheat, orchards, alfalfa, and livestock, primarily sheep.) Records have Charles Hubner, wagon maker, operating Hill’s Ferry ferryboat in 1873, but the Wilsons were once again carrying the license in 1874. From 1874 to 1878, the license was under the names of H.F. Blackwell and John Harns. Stockton Judge D.D. Dickerson saw the importance of having a crossing on the San Joaquin River, and in 1849, he sent a boat of explorers upstream to locate a proper site for a ferryboat. Wheat Fields and Steamboats Records indicate that a Mr. Thompson was operating a ferry at the After the Gold Rush subsided, many miners turned to Hill’s Ferry site in 1850. He could have had connections with agriculture and in particular to wheat farming in the northern part of Dickerson or may have been on his own; sources aren’t clear on the San Joaquin Valley. The crossroads of Hill’s Ferry now became this. Valley ferryboats were small wooden barges, 25 feet or so in a stop for riverboats and barges plying the San Joaquin River from length, having sideboards, with ramps on both ends, and were Stockton to Herdon. The pulled across rivers by first steamer that reached ropes and pulleys. Hill’s Ferry was the small A traveler sternwheeler Christiana. reported on March 15, Hill’s Ferry was well over 1850 that a Captain Hardy 50 river miles from operated a whaleboat Stockton, because of the service at the Hill’s Ferry meandering turns. It could site, rowing passengers take a few days at 3 mph, across the river in his to travel upstream from vessel. Because of the Stockton to Hill’s Ferry. rush to the gold fields that There were stops along spring, any extra the way, while the conveyance was utilized. traveling was done during He could have been a the day. Lumber, farm partner with Thompson, Hill’s Ferry in 1865, with the Kahn Brothers store on the left and in the equipment, and groceries but there is no background a steamboat docked on the San Joaquin River SSS photo were the usual freight documentation to transported to Hill’s Ferry, while wood, grain, hides, hay, and some substantiate it. In 1852, Jesse Hill and John de Hart, who were livestock were loaded for the return trip. traveling through the area hunting geese, came across the ferry Hill’s Ferry became a major shipping point in the wheatand purchased it on the spot. Hill became sole owner shortly growing region and the last viable southern terminus on the San afterward when de Hart sold him his half. Hill constructed a hotel, Joaquin River. It outranked other San Joaquin River landings in store, and warehouse on the west bank. The settlement became volume of grain shipped. More than 25,000 tons of sacked grain known from then on as Hill’s Ferry, with Hill operating the ferry for was shipped from Hill’s Ferry during peak years of the 1870s. From the next decade, paying the county $50 a year for operating licenses. April to July, the water was high and the riverboats and barges Hill was 31 years-old in 1852, having come to California from Virginia could easily transport grain to Stockton and to Port Costa. The by way of Fort Smith, Arkansas. farmers rushed to get their grain to Hill’s Ferry for shipment, or risk paying the storage costs at the local warehouses, or pay the Ferry Ownership and Licensing There were a number of early ferry businesses along the expensive overland freight. Many times during the spring runoff, rivers. Some were temporary, while others became more established Hill’s Ferry was flooded, being near the confluence of two major if they were on main roads. A county license was required and a rivers. One year an eyewitness saw a steamboat docked at the bond posted for liability. Ownership and license holders varied second floor of the Hill’s Ferry Hotel rescuing stranded residents. The drought of 1871-72 hampered the shipping business, continuously, with the names of ferries being a mass of confusion. ———————— 583 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Winter 2013 because the river was too low for steamboat traffic. Crops were maker Charles Hubner, except for lots that had been already short that harvest season, but still there was a respectable yield. purchased by others. On February 16, 1861, Jesse and Harriett Hill Simon Newman and the Kahn brothers owned warehouses at Hill’s mortgaged their ferryboat assets for $2,000. The mortgage was paid Ferry, where 10,000 tons of grain were stored for later shipment. off in May 1862, because William and Richard Wilson purchased The inability to ship the ferry. Hill owned their harvest caused individual lots farmers to look to the according to a few railroad for a reliable sources, selling some source of conveyance of the lots in 1862 to and cheaper costs. William “Pap” Wilson, The San father of William and Joaquin River was once Richard Wilson. Pap a mighty river, but the Wilson built and use of river water for operated a Hill’s Ferry hydraulic mining held store and hotel. Hill water back and then the traded the rest of his riverbed became silted Hill’s Ferry lots to and debris-filled Hubner, who erected a because of mining warehouse and built operations. Dams for houses and stores for irrigation at the turn-ofinterested buyers or the-century placed Lithograph showing Hill’s Ferry settlement in 1880. The far left captures the tenants. more controls on the joining of the San Joaquin and Merced rivers. The docks are above the steamHill’s Ferry water level. The river boat. The lower right features the ferryboat. On the right, just above the received its mail by became a controlled settelement is Dutch Corners’ horse racetrack Branch illus. stage from 1865 to artery of water that 1888 from Banta to the amounted to no more that a lazy stream during the summer months. north. Price of land rose from the $1.50 an acre in the early years to River traffic dwindled to nothing by the first decade of the 20th $10 an acre when agriculture was full-blown. There had been a lull century. in the settlement’s growth when Gold Rush traffic declined, but the wheat era changed that. There was a resurgence of growth, which Hill’s Ferry Settlement caused the Hill’s Ferry Post Office to reopen on April 18, 1870. Simon Newman, a German Jewish immigrant who changed On July 3, 1855, Hill’s Ferry Post Office opened, with Jesse Hill serving as the postmaster. Because of lack of residents, it closed his last name from Neuman to Newman, leased a Hill’s Ferry store on May 19, 1856 for a period of 14 years. Hill’s Ferry was located in from Hubner in 1870, and within a few years, he had amassed $35,000 the Orestimba Township, which covered the southwest corner of worth of livestock. He owned a herd of sheep and was a quarter Stanislaus County. The 1860 Census recorded 89 residents living in owner of the steamship, Centennial, which plied the waters between the Orestimba Township, with over half residing on ranches. Many Stockton and San Francisco and was the largest vessel to navigate were southern sympathizers, with some having been former slave the San Joaquin River. French immigrant brothers, Jules and Charles owners. The 1860 Census recorded two saloons in Hill’s Ferry and Kahn, also owned a mercantile business in Hills Ferry, with both a general merchandise store. Hill ran one saloon, while E.E. Hewitt the Kahns and Newman serving as bankers for the settlement. Towards the end of the 1870s, Hill’s Ferry had a population operated the store and the other saloon. Most histories designate Jesse Hill as the exclusive owner of nearly 500 and was considered the largest town in the county. of Hill’s Ferry settlement until he dispensed with individual lots The surrounding agricultural area, with its large ranches, employed through business transactions. But according to county records, nearly 2,500 workers. Hill’s Ferry by this time consisted of a Hill was really nothing more than a squatter on the Mexican Land restaurant, tin shop, wagon shop, paint shop, watch shop, lumber Grant of Orestimba Rancho, which was in federal courts at the time yard, photograph gallery, shoe shop, public school, Masonic Hall, to determine its rightful owner. But Hill thought he owned Hill’s Wells Fargo office, a attorney-at-law, and a constable; there were Ferry settlement, having it surveyed in 1856, with his claims being two: hotels, blacksmith shops, carpenter shops, apothecaries, justices of the peace, barbershops, notaries public, warehouses; rejected twice by the government. On July 30, 1863, Leonetto Cipriari was declared owner of and there were three livery stables, seven saloons, 20 houses and Orestimba Rancho, by the U.S. government. The next year, Cipriari 19 Chinese shanties. The two justices of peace were John Newsom hired William G. Collier of Merced County to survey his land. This and William Spicer. The two hotels were operated by John P. Allen became known as the Collier Survey in which the settlement of and the Russ family. Simon Newman’s warehouse stored 4,000 tons Hill’s Ferry sat on 56.26 acres of the rancho. On February 2, 1864, of grain, while the Kahn brothers’ warehouse 6,000 tons. Newman Cipriani sold those Hill’s Ferry acres to Richard Wilson for $1,500. shipped 15,000 tons of grain a year, while the Kahn brothers 10,000 Wilson in turn sold the 56.26 acres on September 28, 1873 to wagon tons. There were two stage lines with stops at Hill’s Ferry, one on ———————— 584 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— the Modesto route and the other on the Stockton-Visalia run. A Masonic lodge was formed on May 17, 1873. Those in attendance at the first meeting were: W.A. Atlee, Charles P. Harris, Patrick Manning, J.M. Spriggs, H.F. Blackwell, W.H. Robinson, J.M. Newsom, and Bing Fowler. On July 25, 1874, the hall was completed at a cost of $2,720. An article in the August 2, 1872 issue of the Stanislaus County Weekly speaks of the growth and importance of Hill’s Ferry: Winter 2013 was a member of the first Stanislaus County Court of Sessions and later the Stanislaus County Board of Supervisors. He also was a State Assemblyman from the region. Wide-Open Town Hill’s Ferry had the reputation of a wide-open town. Outlaws of all types passed through, especially horse thieves who were riding to hideouts in the coastal mountains. They tore up the town, riding into saloons on horses, shooting out lights, and robbing “Within the last three years, not withstanding the droughts, Hill’s the till. Harvest crews of 20 to 50 men were in Hill’s Ferry on Saturday Ferry has advanced in both population and business. Here is located nights, staying through one of the largest business Sunday, spending their establishments [owned by paychecks on gambling, drink, Simon Newman] of the entire and female companionship. county, if not the whole valley. There were stabbings, The trade at Hill’s Ferry is shootings, theft, and general indeed enormous. The greatest mayhem. On Monday mornings portion of its trade comes from the ranch bosses would gather Merced County, and it extends their crews in wagons and up some 40 miles. It has few if return them for another week of any rivals in trade. It is both the work. One account tells of center and outlet for a large Joaquin Murrieta’s severed portion of the valley.” head being seen in a tub when Marshals stopped at Hill’s Ranches Ferry on their way to San In 1866, 1,500 turkeys Francisco. J.T. Callahan wrote were herded through Hill’s Ferry a piece in the San Francisco from Visalia to market in San Morning Call on October 21, Francisco. It was rumored that 1883 about the fast times at Hill’s Map showing Hill’s Ferry’s location RLS illus. the locals had turkey dinners Ferry: the next few days. Grazing sheep and cattle were common to the area. Sheepherders, many who were Basque, drove their flocks to “The place became noted for its tough characters, its stories of Hill’s Ferry for shearing and usually lost their money to gamblers. robberies, ruffianism, and crime. Mexican horse thieves and white The town’s Wild West notoriety caused many settlers to buy land outlaws finding the most convenient crossing place to their far away from town, such as in the foothill canyons. These ranchers rendezvous in the mountains, always used it after their raids among drove or shipped their cattle to Stockton or to the gold mines for the settlers of the valley and always tarried long enough in the butchering. There was a lack of doctors and undertakers in the place to clean out Mr. Hill’s bar room at the point of their pistols community requiring settlers to perform these services as best they and then clean out his bottles and jugs with their mouths. The could. When farming was poor and the farmers were unoccupied, crack of a pistol was a familiar sound and the cry of agony and off to the gold mines they would go, seeking riches and adventure. despair of some poor victim as he received the assassin’s knife was Social gatherings were popular within the farming community, with an almost nightly occurrence. The upturned face, cold, and white, dances being held at Hill’s Ferry or on the ranches. Hill’s Ferry of a shearer or woodchopper or some other who happened to be never had a church, because the nearby Newsom Bridge community possessed of money, would frequently startle the man who had held services. Masons built a hall in Hill’s Ferry, with the bottom happened to step aside from the beaten track, stumble across the floor being reserved for church meetings. victim of revenge or avarice, stiff in death. Then it was that Hill’s Ferry became generally known as the hardest place in the state.” Schools In 1855, Charles Hutchings led the campaign to establish a public school in the area. A schoolhouse was built along Orestimba Creek, which also served as a church on Sundays, with services being conducted by Rev. Bonner. The school was paid through subscriptions, and after 14 years of existence, it became part of the new school district of Orestimba, joining with Bonita and White Crow schools. Hill’s Ferry School District was formed in August 1873, having 26 students. Hutchings and his wife were buried on Henry Mills’ ranch, along with their son-in-law, John Newsom, who Callahan may have sensationalized some, but Hill’s Ferry did have its murderous moments, such as the time when McNish shot Hubbel. John McNish worked for Simon Newman and was a respected citizen, but for some reason he was disliked by a Mr. Hubbel. Hubbel forced a fight on McNish, who in turn shot and killed him. McNish was acquitted by a jury. Another homicide occurred on August 18, 1875, when Richard “Dick” Collins shot to death John Shelden, an elderly sheepherder. They had been drinking at one of the saloons, when the shooting took place. Collins ———————— 585 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— vanished but was caught, tried in Modesto, and hung on November 24, 1876, being the last such hanging there. In May 1883, another shooting occurred, which may have led to the Callahan article. Levi Arnold and some friends had been drinking heavily and entered John Rech’s saloon. Playfully Arnold began beating Rech’s head with his hat demanding whiskey. Rech wasn’t amused and refused to serve Arnold. The two exchanged words whereby Arnold flung a glass at Rech breaking the large bar mirror behind him. Rech then shot Arnold, killing him instantly. He was acquitted in district court. A racetrack was located three miles west of Hill’s Ferry owned by Hill’s Ferry butcher shop operators, Ernest Voight and H. Weitman. It stood on 16.42 acres that the two men bought on November 22, 1873 for $340 from William Wilson. The racetrack complex featured a saloon and roadhouse, with the complex being known as Dutch Corners after Voight who was German (Deutsch). Irrigation On November 19, 1870, the San Joaquin and Kings River Canal Company was formed, with a financial backing of $1 million from private San Francisco sources and large landholders. By 1880, the Miller-Lux Canal was 87 miles long. It began at the junction of the San Joaquin River and Fresno Slough, ending two miles north of Crows Landing. It transported irrigation water to ranches, causing the division of large ranches into small acreages suitable for irrigation. These irrigated lands were planted into clover and alfalfa, with dairy farming becoming the chief industry. This served as an example for ranchers throughout the valley as to the fortunes waiting with irrigated land. Soon irrigation districts were formed to build dams, reservoirs, and canals transforming river water into irrigation water. Like hydraulic mining, taking water from rivers for irrigation lowered river levels, causing the demise of river transportation, but railroads quickly resolved this issue. Newman and the Railroad Simon Newman arrived in Hill’s Ferry in 1869 at the age of 23. He was from Germany and served on the Union side during the Civil War. When he came to California, he worked as a clerk in mercantile businesses in the Sierra. He opened a small merchandise business in Hill’s Ferry, and by 1881, the volume of his stock increased vastly to include dry goods, groceries, hardware, and agricultural equipment. Newman also owned a warehouse and large herds of livestock. In 1887, the track of the San Pablo and Tulare Extension Railroad, part of the Southern Pacific Railroad, was laid through the West Side, four miles west of the San Joaquin River. Simon Newman owned property that the railroad crossed, which he sold to the rail company. This became the site for the new railroad town of Newman. A Hill’s Ferry resident rallied his fellow citizens to embrace the railroad in an article of the Stanislaus County Weekly News on December 23, 1887: “We are coming to a new era for westsiders. The “Iron Horse” had forced his way across Orestimba Creek, and the sound of his hoofs are ringing in the ears of everyone, old and young, and all are looking with eager eyes to the day when he shall reach the new Winter 2013 town near Dutch Corners. Awake ye sons of men! Arise ye westsiders! Gird your loins and prepare for the coming conflict. Do ye not hear the mutterings of the boom that is now upon us? Then up and be ready to grapple every enemy of progress and civilization. Put your shoulders against the car of advancement and lift with such mighty force as shall make for the westside one of the great booms which strike the golden state.” There was a mass exodus of businesses and buildings to Newman from Hill’s Ferry. The An elderly Simon Newman Merced Sun Star of January 27, 1888 had predicted: “The advent of Newman will be the death knell of the once prosperous Hill’s Ferry.” Masons moved their hall at a cost of $1,549 to three lots they purchased on O St. in Newman. The building was too heavy to move intact, so the roof, floor, and partitions in the upper floor were removed. Once the hall was in Newman, a new coat of paint was applied at a cost of $355. The first meeting was held in the moved hall on September 7, 1889. The post office was moved on August 9, 1888 to Newman. When Charles Hubner closed his wagon business, the riverboat and ferry town of Hill’s Ferry was all but deserted. River Bridge A bridge was built in 1902 over the San Joaquin River near the old Hill’s Ferry crossing. It was long overdue, with the problem being a lack of agreement between the boards of supervisors of Merced and Stanislaus counties. The process began in 1889 through a citizens’ petition. On May 14, 1889, the Stanislaus County Board of Supervisors considered the matter and took the position that the cost of the bridge should be shared with Merced County. The counties were slow in their joint effort which prompted another citizens’ petition. On March 14, 1890, the Stanislaus board voted to continue seeking Merced’s cooperation indefinitely until the bridge was finished. On August 25, 1891, while crossing the river, the ferry sank with a load of sheep. This brought an outcry from the public demanding a bridge. In the meantime, residents of Newman and Hill’s Ferry petitioned the county board on August 13, 1893 for the establishment of a free ferry, which meant the county would have to subsidize it. It was turned down. On March 14, 1895, the board ordered a joint meeting with Merced County. On June 12th, Stanislaus and Merced counties’ representatives met and agreed to seek bids for the bridge’s construction, but the Stanislaus board voted to defeat the action, wanting a feasibility study first. This was done and submitted to the boards on April 12, 1897. It was a favorable report, which caused the bridge to be built, being finished on February 22, 1902. It was a steel turntable bridge that allowed vessels to pass. The bridge stood for 60 years, but metal fatigue and the narrowness of the passageway caused a new concrete bridge to be built in 1962. What was once a ferryboat crossroad and a steamboat landing now served as a bridge site. Written by Robert LeRoy Santos ———————— 586 ———————— Crows Landing: The Early Years Crow Family Pike returned to Missouri in 1852 and remained there until 1854, returning to California with a herd of cattle, which were driven California in 1849 just like thousands of other men across America to the Crow settlement along Orestimba Creek. The six Crow brothers and elsewhere. Crow worked as a mechanic, carpenter, and a farmer in California corresponded with the three remaining siblings in in Kentucky. He was born in Danville, Kentucky on January 18, Missouri, telling them of the opportunities in the Golden State. 1794, moving to Pike County, Missouri with his wife Susan in 1848. This resulted in the balance of Walter and Susan Crow’s family She gave birth to nine children, eight sons and one daughter, coming to California in 1865. They were members of one of the passing away however before her husband set out for California in largest wagon trains to head West, being captained by John “Brad” 1849. The Crows were English, with their ancestry immigrating to Bradford Crow, who brought with him his brother Isaac P. Crow and Rockingham County, Virginia and then to Boyle County, Kentucky. sister Susan Eleanor Crow, who later married J.W. Smith. Also in the Some linked the family with Dr. James Crow, the developer of wagon train were the Crow family servants and other families who Kentucky bourbon knew the Crows. They whiskeyand founcrossed the plains by der of the Old Crow way of Omaha and distillery, but Walter Salt Lake, entering Crow’s genealogy California after five chart lacks such a months of exhausting connection. travel, coming Departing through Calaveras from his home near County, arriving in Bowling Green, Stockton on Missouri, Walter September 1, 1865. Crow departed for They lingered in California by oxen Stockton for a year team accompanied and then moved to the by his two younger Crow settlement along sons, Lewis Jacob Orestimba Creek. Crow and Clinton From left are: Isaac Pritchard Crow, William Henry Crow, James Addison Crow, Brad Crow Pike Crow. They Benjamin Hamilton Crow, John Bradford Crow, Arthur McDowell Crow, Lewis Jacob purchased 2,800 acres arrived in California of land of the old Crow, Clinton Pike Crow, and Susan Eleanor Crow Smith on September 10, Spanish land grant, CSU, Stanislaus Special Collections photo 1849 and immediateRancho Orestimba, for ly began mining near an average of $2.78 per Hangtown, where Walter remained until December 1st. Seeing acre. (Another account notes that it was 3,000 acres costing from opportunity in California cattle business, he returned to Missouri $1.50 to $2 per acre, depending upon the quality of the land.) The by ship, via the Isthmus of Panama, to purchase cattle and drive acquired land extended three miles on both sides of Orestimba them to California. Clinton Pike Crow, known by his middle name Creek. By 1881, he was farming 4,000 acres that produced 25 bushels Pike, and his brother Lewis remained in California, continuing to of wheat per acre. A dam was erected across the creek, allowing mine as the weather permitted. Pike had been a seminary student in irrigation of 300 acres for field crops. In 1881, Brad Crow owned 100 Ashley, Missouri, but because of poor health, he was forced to head of cattle, 100 horses and mules, and 500 hogs. forego his theological studies. The first buildings constructed by the Crows came from In the spring of 1850, Walter traversed the plains once lumber hauled overland from Stockton. Later, James Addison Crow, again, bringing with him four more of his sons: William Henry Crow, and his sister Susan, and her husband, J.W. Smith, shipped their James Addison Crow, Benjamin Harrison Crow, and Arthur lumber by steamboat from Stockton. Steamboats and barges were McDowell Crow. They were part of a wagon train, driving 800 important at this time for hauling of sacks of grain and hay to “American” cattle of their own, losing half before arriving in Stockton from various landings or wharves along the San Joaquin California. Unfortunately, at the age of 56, Walter Crow took sick, River. The steamboats returned from Stockton with farm supplies expiring at the mouth of the Feather River shortly after their arrival, and equipment for the large ranches. At this time, the river was being buried in Yuba City. His sons drove the surviving 400 head of navigable south to Herndon, where the river turns eastward towards cattle to an area near Ripon, engaging in butchering and dairying. the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. The steamboats ran from April Later they settled along the Orestimba Creek near the Coast Range to September when the river had enough depth. During the winter, foothills, with Pike and Lewis joining them to continue the family’s the steamboats were berthed at Stockton, making runs around the cattle business. Pike carved his name and the date “1851” on a rock Delta and to San Francisco Bay. The railroad would eventually at the head of Orestimba Creek, a practice in the Westward replace steamboats, while irrigation dams caused the river to lack Movement. volume, preventing steamboat river travel altogether. The electrifying news of gold brought Walter Crow to ———————— 587 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— River Vessels The Crow family had at least two steamboats of their own. The accounts are conflicting as to which family members were engaged in river transportation and what the steamboats’ names were. One source commented that James and Pike Crow operated two steamers, Harriet and Clara Crow, managed by Susan’s husband, J.W. Smith. James and Pike also operated a horse-drawn railway line in Stockton. Another report records that Brad Crow and J.W. Smith built two steamers that transported passengers and supplies up and down the San Joaquin River. Still another account Winter 2013 had dropped the river level so low that steamboat travel became prohibitive. Clara Crow’s log recorded that she transported grain, cattle, lumber, food, and passengers. The transportation of grain and hay to Stockton by steamboat during harvest time was crucial for ranchers. They wanted to avoid the expense of storing their yields in riverside warehouses for any length of time or having to pay for freighting their harvested crops by mule team, which was slow and expensive. During this era, northern San Joaquin Valley was one mammoth wheat field, having enormous yields, all needing to be transported to Stockton from where they were shipped worldwide. For this, there were steamboat landings along the San Joaquin River at San Joaquin City, Grayson, Crows Landing, and Hill’s Ferry. Stockton was considered to be over 50 river miles from Crows Landing when considering the river’s numerous meandering turns. Many times steamboats pulled barges of significant size, usually 300 feet by 50 feet that could haul up to 18,000 sacks of grain. Many times they had their own rudder and helmsman to guide the vessel down the main channel. Barges drew five feet of water and had the habit of grounding if the pilot was not vigilant. Crows Landing Beginnings Steamboat J.R. McDonald at Crows Landing SSS photo has James A. Crow and J.W. Smith constructing two steamboats, J.C. Walker and Clara Crow, and operating a shipping business. One more publication asserted that O.C. Eastin and Brad Crow were partners in a ferryboat business, being joined by a Crow brother and brother-in-law. The four businessmen then expanded their river transportation business, concentrating on hauling grain. And a final account stated that the Crow family built its own steamers, J.R. McDonald and Harriet, with Harriet being later named Clara Crow. On January 6, 1868, Brad Crow wrote to Henry Miller, cattle baron and partner in the Miller-Lux Irrigation Canal enterprise, about his steamboat business: “Mr. Louis Haas and I have just completed a steamer, which we expect to run regular once a week to Fresno. We call her Harriet and any freight you have to go up the river we would be happy to carry for you. . . . We propose to work for fair prices and will run as long as we can get patronage. Our boat is about as large as the Tulare – ours is neatly fitted for passengers. Give us a trial.” One can conclude from these various sources that James Crow, Pike Crow, Brad Crow, and J.W. Smith, were all involved in steamboat transportation in some fashion. For sure the Crows owned Harriet (Clara Crow) and another vessel, either J.C. Walker or J.R. McDonald, or maybe both. If it were the J.R. Walker, it took its last run south of the Crow family settlement in 1906, because irrigation At first the Crows Landing facility for steamboats and barges was known as John Bradford Crow’s Wharf. Then shortly the name was changed to Crow’s Landing, with the apostrophe being dropped officially from its name (Crows Landing) when the U.S. post office was opened. Technically, there were two Crows Landings. The first being John Bradford Crow’s Wharf, which was located on a bluff as the river bended, near a store owned by Clyde Beatly. Then there was Crow’s Upper Landing, found in Clara Crow’s log, being located on a bluff on the river just south of the John Bradford Crow’s ranch. In the upper right corner there is a steamboat where his wharf was located Branch illus. mouth of Orestimba Creek on property owned by Benjamin Crow. Near this site, Brad Crow operated a ferryboat crossing with Jim Eastin that was originated by George Russell in 1851. The community of Crows Landing grew at Crow’s Upper Landing, stretching to the intersection of the landing’s road and Stockton-Hill’s Ferry Road, a major overland artery from Stockton. The small settlement had a blacksmith shop, Crow family warehouses, and a store operated by Charles Whitmore, who served as postmaster. There was a grocery store owned by Mr. Tucker in ———————— 588 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— the 1860s, being located at the intersection. It was sold to a Mr. Armstrong, with John E. Thompson, the blacksmith, buying it. A post office building was transported from Orestimba to the settlement, with the post office officially opening on June 21, 1870, having the name Crows Landing. Other families began settling in the Crows Landing area. Thomas K. Wallis of Wisconsin came to California in 1863 through Winter 2013 Moving Crows Landing These early pioneers grew grain and raised cattle. There were few trees on the valley plains, with the land being unfenced. This was to change in 1881 when the Miller and Lux Canal was finished, bringing irrigation to the area. Land was divided into smaller acreages, with dairy farming becoming the chief agricultural industry. The next major change occurred when the Southern Pacific Railroad line came through the West Side in 1887. Crows Landing was four miles east of the railroad track, with Crows Landing residents realizing that their town needed to be relocated where the railroad existed. Before long, rail transportation replaced steamboats. A site for the relocation of Crows Landing was selected. It is unclear if the land was purchased from the Crows or donated by them. Brad Crow bought the Kane Warehouse in Hill’s Ferry, relocating the building on the east side of the railroad tracks. Before long, one could see teams of wagons lined up with loads of grain at his facility. Crows Landing Post Office moved shortly from the river site to the rail site. The community left behind at the old Crows Landing became known as Byersville for John Byers, a cattle rancher and early settler. He kept a grocery store and succeeded in getting a post office at Byersville, which opened on November 14, 1894. For many years the stage still brought mail to the settlement. The grocery store remained until it was destroyed by fire in the mid-1930s. Schools An old surveyor’s map adapted to illustrate the location of key sites RLS illus. the Isthmus of Panama. His wife arrived the following year, with them rearing ten children on land they homesteaded east of the San Joaquin River. The Wisconsin families of Kricke and Fink traveled overland, settling in the Crows Landing area. In 1869, Charles Kricke arrived in California to evaluate the opportunities available for his family. He was followed by Will Fink in 1871. Fink returned home and brought his sister Frederica to the Golden State. In 1873, his wife and four sons, Jacob, Charles, George, and Julius, along with Will’s father, arrived by rail in Banta, taking a carriage to Crows Landing. At first they purchased very little land, but soon they owned two sections north and west of the present Crows Landing. In 1873, Charles Kricke brought his wife and small children by train from Wisconsin, settling near Crows Landing. They were German and were unaccustomed to American culture and language. Misfortune struck when Kricke was robbed of his entire savings while enroute. Others aboard the train shared their food, but when they arrived at Banta, the family was penniless. Kricke walked 30 miles to find a carriage to take his family to Crows Landing. Within two years, they were leasing 240 acres of land at a cost of one-fifth of the crops produced on it. The land was uncultivated when Kricke first farmed it, and eventually he bought the ranch for $2.50 an acre. He was tragically killed while taking his daughter Dora to school when his mule team fell off a washed-out bridge. Mrs. Kricke possessed the industry to buy the 250 acres and manage the ranch successfully. The first public school in Stanislaus County was founded in 1854 at Newsom’s Bridge on Orestimba Creek. Newsom’s Bridge was a small settlement that developed where the Hill’s FerryStockton Road crossed Orestimba Creek. Another area public school was opened in 1881, named Bonita School, located where the Naval Auxiliary Air Station would be during World War II. There was an enrollment of 18 students in 1881, with the teacher’s salary being $65 a month and the schoolhouse valued at $150. Another public school was organized with the name White Crow School to distinguish it from the “Black Crow” branch of the family, who were Republicans. Accounts provide no further explanation for this curious circumstance. The school was located near Orestimba Creek on Mervyn Crow’s ranch. When the railroad came through, White Crow School merged with Bonita School, opening at the rail town of Crows Landing. It was at White Crow School that the first church service was held in the area. Services then were normally presided by circuit riding preachers of which Rev. E.C. Latta was one. He founded the first church in the area, with Thomas K. Wallis, John F. Stewart, and James T. Crow, son of Brad Crow, assisting him in the effort. In April 1893, a church building was completed and was named Cumberland Presbyterian Church, with Rev. E.L.B. McClellan serving as its first pastor. Bridges In 1887, the first Crows Landing bridge was built across the San Joaquin River for $35,196. It was constructed for Stanislaus County by the Pacific Bridge Company, being completed May 11, 1887. It was a turntable bridge, operated by John Byers, that pivoted, allowing river traffic to pass on the river. On August 15, 1890, a river ———————— 589 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— steamer crashed into the bridge, closing it for several weeks, while repairs of nearly $4,600 were made. One source notes that on June 21, 1893, a late spring run-off completely covered the span. As mentioned earlier, the community of Newsom’s Bridge was located where the Hill’s Ferry-Stockton Road (River Road today) crosses Orestimba Creek. The bridge itself first appeared in county records on December 5, 1854 when a road petition was filed with First Crows Landing bridge built in 1887 for $35,196 by the Pacific Bridge Company. It was a turntable bridge operated by John Byers that allowed river traffic to travel the San Joaquin River SSS photo Stanislaus County Court of Sessions (early Board of Supervisors) to extend a road from Hill’s Ferry to the northern part of the county by way of Newsom’s Bridge. The petition was approved, with the roadway becoming a public highway. John Newsom, for whom the bridge was named, bought land from the Orestimba Ranch in the early 1850s. He was chosen to be on the first County Board of Supervisors in 1855, serving a short term from May to August. He returned to the board in 1860, where he served from November 1860 to August 1866. Newsom was the board’s chairman for five of the six years. He was reelected again in 1872, serving until September 1875, where he was chairman the last year of his term. He also was a State Assemblyman, representing the MercedStanislaus District during the 17th Session of the California State Assembly for 1876-78. He John Newsom became known as the CSUS Special Collections illlus. “Watchdog of the Treasury” for his vigilance in watching governmental spending. In his later years, he lived in Hill’s Ferry, serving as one of the town’s justices of the peace and notary public. He became a watchmaker and died at the age of 72 on June 10, 1892. As noted above, the first public school in Stanislaus County was founded in 1854 at Newsom’s Bridge. Charles Hutchings Winter 2013 was able to raise money to build a one-room schoolhouse. Having had previous experience in establishing a school in Missouri, he drafted regulations for the school building’s usage. In it, school activity was given priority, except on election day when the building served as an election poll. Religious denominations used the building for free, as well as political, literary or charitable organizations. Rev. Eli Latta organized a congregation of Presbyterians, using the school building from 1876 to 1888 when they moved to Newman. In May 1869, the school was added to the new Orestimba School District. On April 18, 1870, a post office was placed at Newsom’s Bridge with the postal authorities naming it Orestimba after the rancho and creek. Many local citizens referred to it as “Orris Timbres” in their correspondence not really knowing its true spelling. The post office, though, was moved two months later to Crows Landing on June 21, 1870. In 1871, the County Board of Supervisors decided that a new bridge was needed at Newsom’s Bridge, and on May 21, 1872, it was completed by M. Staley at a cost of $750. Written by Robert LeRoy Santos Mexican Land Grants in Stanislaus County. Future towns are given to provide a better understanding of the land grants’ locations RLS illus. Front cover: Stanislaus County photos of an early peach orchard, wheat harvester, bridge, and M.E. Wright steamboat. CSUS Special Collections photos ———————— 590 ———————— Land Ownership and Agricultural Transition in Stanislaus County D uring the decade following the first flow of water into the canals and ditches of the Turlock Irrigation District (TID) in 1901 and the Modesto Irrigation District (MID) in 1903, Stanislaus County was transformed from a wheat producing area of great renown to a community of small farms of diversified crops. Almost as fast as irrigation water rushed across Stanislaus County land, the massive wheat ranches and its type of life began to disappear forever. Water Is Needed Once water began to flow down the canal laterals, large acreages began to be parceled off and sold. The following statistics testify to this dramatic transformation caused by subdivision during the decade. In 1901, there were 951 farms in Stanislaus County, which increased to 2,200 by 1910. The average size of a county farm in 1901 was 874 acres, with many farms being over 1,000 acres, as compared to 1910 when the average farm acreage was 242, with a great number of farms being 20 to 50 acres in size. Price per acre during the decade shot upward along with the number of land sales. In 1901, one could buy land for $18 an acre, which rose to $60 by 1910, with some prime land selling for $100 to $200 an acre. Real estate became a big business overnight. At the turn of the 19th century, wheat was still the number one crop of the county, but its type of agriculture was destroying the soil. Evidence of soil depletion could be seen in the decline of rich harvests. W.W. Waters, a prominent county farmer, noted in Promoting Land Sales 1901 that his earlier harvests reaped from 12 to 15 sacks of grain per acre but production had declined to a meager five or six sacks. Land companies sprang up, such as the renowned Fin de Different strains of Siecle (End of the Century), wheat were being developed owned by a number of local with the hope of restoring the prominent men, including crop to its once grand state. Horace and Stephen Crane, James Thompson of Lanark George S. Bloss and his son Park was experimenting with George S. Bloss, Jr., and Harry wheat to create one that F. Geer. The company purchased required less water. The the massive John W. Mitchell commonly used summer holdings, placing all 120,000 fallowing method of soil acres for sale in small parcels. restoration was found to be A mixture of local lacking in effectiveness. The efforts was concocted to attract one crop system that was potential land buyers. The dependent upon consistent Stanislaus County Board of Train load of excursionists to view farmland that was up for sale. winter and spring rainfall was Trade had an immense Located at Turlock’s Southern Pacific Depot in 1907 not working. Irrigation seemed advertisement program. CSUS Special Collections photo to be the answer to the area’s Railroads offered special prices predicament of soil depletion and declining agricultural production. to excursionists (buyers from distances) and supported advertising Soil could be restored by crop rotation from diversified agriculture. exhibits at stations and in railcars. Private investors were on the This required plenty of irrigation water, which was the purpose of bandwagon, improving properties and offering special inducements TID and MID. to purchase property. Many times these local entrepreneurs joined efforts to coax potential buyers to the county. Irrigation and Subdividing Land People, such as Ephraim Hatch, began to anticipate the coming change in the size of farms because of irrigation. In 1899, he bought hardscrabble land in the county to add to his already burgeoning holdings for future land sales. Many ranch owners were allowing their vast acreages to lie dormant awaiting the inevitable subdivision of their land. They believed it was not worth the time and expense to farm grain for meager yields. Some landowners decided to improve their holdings by leveling the land, constructing irrigation ditches and gates, and in some cases erecting houses and farm buildings, thereby increasing their property’s value. Many landowners actively and vocally supported the irrigation program, such as L.M. Hickman in the TID, much to the chagrin of his anti-irrigation, wheat growing neighbors. Railroad Involvement S.W. Ferguson was one such entrepreneur. He was the manager of the Kern County Land Bureau, Land Agent for the Southern Pacific Railroad (SPRR), a representative of realities in the state, and a representative of the local entrepreneurs. He traveled frequently throughout the Midwest and East Coast and went once to Europe on behalf of his sponsors. Ferguson sought the “proper class,” as he put it. He urged the local landowners to price their land low, thereby encouraging a buying surge. Once buying accelerated and a trend was established, prices could be raised as situations permitted. His advice did not fall on deaf ears. Land was not on the market for long, because the advertisement program was so effective. SPRR for one had a multi- ———————— 591 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Winter 2013 headed program. Not only did the railroad company advertise land They were paraded around the county in fine carriages and shiny in numerous newspapers and magazines throughout the U.S., it automobiles. Meals were cooked on home stoves and lodgings provided low fares to land seekers. These rates were offered most were made especially comfortable. In Modesto, groups gathered in often during the winter months when farmers could take advantage the Court House Park to hear speeches, listen to music, view slides, of the off-season to inspect land. Rates to California for March and and read promotional literature. April 1902 were: $25 from the Missouri River and Houston, $33 from Chicago, $31 from Peoria, and $30 from St. Louis, Cairo, Memphis, Lectures and Exhibits and New Orleans. The lecture program was another advertising technique. In February 1902, E.O. McCormick, Passenger Traffic Many prominent men in the county, such as A.B. Shoemake, Manager of SPRR, reported that one-third of the 21,000 excursionists volunteered his time to the County Board of Trade’s lecture program. in 1901, traveling on the reduced rate program, had settled in G.T. McCabe, under contract with the board, lectured frequently, California. Still the program was young as were the infant irrigation primarily in the Los Angeles area. In 1908, McCabe gave 24 lectures projects in California. As irrigation broadened and agriculture a month, with an average attendance of 74, or a grand total of 21,370 matured, more and more people bought persons addressed. Of these, 455 spoke land, and many who left empty-handed to McCabe privately after his returned to purchase land later. The presentations, with him sending 135 buyers provided the oldest form of potential buyers to the county, where advertisement, word-of-mouth to 50 bought land averaging 30 acres each. others, especially when they returned At $65 an acre, the going price at the home to settle estates and collect time, he sold $97,500 worth of land in belongings before moving to California. 1908. In his annual report, McCabe Postcards were another stated that the lecture/interview source of county advertisement. In June technique was the most effective 1901, SPRR agent J.T. Keating of method of reaching potential land Modesto asked the Stanislaus County buyers. Board of Trade for photographs and Exhibits were created and information on county agriculture, placed at prime locations in the state. industry, and scenic spots for postcard In 1902, a glass case was displayed in presentations. The following year, the Los Angeles railroad station, having County Board of Trade Secretary G.P. the wording: “STANISLAUS COUNTY Two excurtionists being chauffeured around by Shafer reported that he distributed 3,000 – MODESTO, THE COUNTY SEAT” as a land agent Anthology photo postcards to local residents who in turn a heading. Inside was a map of sent them to distant acquaintances. Not California, with lines drawn, radiating from Modesto to the chief everyone was encouraged to settle. Stern warnings such as the California cities. Irrigated acreages were shown, with a statement following accompanied the leaflets and newspaper advertisements: that the people of Stanislaus County owned the water rights. Also, “The man who has no means, no profession or trade, and no position there were samples of county agricultural products. A similar display assured is as bad off in California as in the Eastern States.” was positioned at a prominent location in the San Francisco Ferry Building. A representative was present, who gave short lectures Excursionists and showed slides, extolling the virtues of the county. At the “1902 Conclave of the Knights of Pythias” in San The planned excursion became a favored method of soliciting land buyers. Special arrangements were made with the Francisco, members of Stanislaus County lodges and the County railroads by local promoters. For example, in 1907 a trip of 60 Board of Trade provided an immense model of the county’s individuals cost a total of just one regular fare, which was paid by irrigation system that was dominated by a 7-foot high model of La local promoters. Most individual land seekers or small groups of Grange Dam. County agricultural products were displayed in three excursionists came to the county from either Los Angeles or the dozen glass jars. An even grander display was the traveling exhibit northern coast of California. Larger groups of excursionists came of two railroad cars sponsored jointly by A.B. Shoemake Co. and the County Board of Trade. Besides local products, the display from the Midwest. In March 1907, 50 excursionists visited the Turlock and exhibited a number of enticing curiosities, such as weapons from Modesto areas. Turlock and Modesto was given equal time, a the South Pacific, a few live animals, stuffed fish, and, in keeping condition required specifically by the promoters. H.H. Whitmore, with fads of the time, a teddy bear. Area representatives accompanied who was the excursion’s organizer, requested that the local residents the exhibit to answer questions and to extol the virtues of a show courtesy and above all were asked not to inflate prices for promising Stanislaus County. These traveling exhibits were local goods and services. He reminded them that they could be transported in California, a few western states, and the Midwest, catering to new neighbors. Whitmore’s commonsense warning having promotional literature in English, Swedish, Finnish, Slovenian, and Italian languages. contributed to sales, because 42 of the 50 bought land. Many Midwesterners were leery of living in California or These group visitors were treated with plenty of fanfare. ———————— 592 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— even coming to the state, because of the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake. In an effort to calm their fears, Stanislaus County representatives informed them that such earthquakes were infrequent and didn’t occur in the Central Valley. Statistics were presented, especially alarming ones as to the dangers of tornadoes and blizzards in the Midwest. Land Sales Winter 2013 for $45 an acre in the MID. The occupations and hometowns of the purchasers of the Ellenwood Tract near the Stanislaus River came from a variety of backgrounds. J.F. Hixon was a SPRR freight and passenger agent in Fresno; W.J. Miller was a conductor for the same railroad line; Dr. A. Stevenson was a prominent physician from El Paso; and Herman Hintze was a Modesto musician. These four men bought all 172 acres of the Ellenwood Tract for $32.50 per acre. They tossed coins to divide the land up among themselves. Sales in the TID began to rise sharply, because irrigation water could be seen flowing in its canals. In late 1901, L.F. Hastings, a civil engineer from Tulare, bought 240 acres of the W.H. Harp Land Colonies ranch owned by Mrs. Mary L. Stone. It was located in the TID, Colonies often were formed by people of similar three miles south of Modesto and sold for $35 an acre. J.Q. Bush of background, i.e., same religion, same ethnic origin, or neighbors Watsonville bought 40 acres of the same ranch for $32.50 an acre. from some distant community. For example, William Meier of Sutter Mrs. E. Casey of Turlock sold 40 acres to a Mr. Grenwold of County visited Stanislaus, returning with a number of his neighbors Porterville. He was the first of many county settlers to come from to purchase farmland. Neighbors in Nebraska bought 560 acres there. C.N. Whitmore sold 55 acres to Peter Hansen of San Lucas, collectively. S.E. Garber and his Dunkard denomination purchased 25 acres to Peter Runge of the same town, and 10 acres to Antoine land north of Modesto. Near Hilmar, in Merced County, a colony of V. Mattos of Newman. Swedes bought land. They planned a community of 990, and by Land sales in the MID had stalled, because water rights May 1904, 100 houses had been built and many fields had been litigation had not be settled by the converted to irrigated farming. courts. There were sales though as Mennonites from Pennsylvania MID irrigation was anticipated by bought land in the Wood Tract, 1903. Elmer E. Hayden of Los which then became Wood Colony. Angeles bought 40 acres of land Swiss dairymen settled in the north of Modesto for $30 an acre. West Side. The largest recorded He was one of the first to buy newly purchase at the time was made by subdivided land in the MID. J.B. a group of Quakers. They bought Wallis, a longtime county resident, 4,000 acres, which included the acquired 40 acres in the Coldwell community of Elmwood, later to tract north of Modesto. H.A. Bates, be named Denair. It was a planned manager of the Harlacher and Kahn settlement of 200 families. A group Warehouses in Modesto, bought of American missionaries in India, 160 acres for $1,870 in the MID, after seeing an advertisement, Land agent spokesman addressing a crowd of excursionsouth of town. bought acreage from the ists at Turlock’s Southern Pacific Depot in 1907 The Fin de Siecle Whitmore estate by mail. A CSUS Special Collections photo Association reported numerous representative of grape growers land sales, primarily to people of Scandinavian descent. E. Henstrom in Rhineland, Germany, Mr. Gillig, came to the county and region to of Nebraska purchased 740 acres for himself and friends southwest seek suitable land for their industry. of Turlock; N. Hendricksen of Minnesota bought 80 acres; C. Limblom, also of Minnesota, bought 147 acres; E.E. Larsen and the Parceling Large Ranches Peterson brothers of Idaho Falls acquired 80 acres; and A. Ericksen, Large landholdings continued to be subdivided. J.T. Davis of the same city, bought 40. Other buyers, from as far away as of San Francisco sold 3,000 acres east of Turlock to C.N. Whitmore Illinois and as near as Fresno, also purchased land. for $120,000, who divided the land into small farms. O. McHenry There was an ever-increasing placement of large estates subdivided the McHenry Colony near Keys Switch (later changed on the market. A.B. Shoemake advertised 10,000 acres available for to Keyes), leveled the land for irrigation, and parceled it into 40new settlers. The Woods’ ranch, three miles north of Modesto, acre pieces. The Los Angeles Realty Trust bought 6,000 acres from owned jointly by Showmake and Oramil McHenry, was subdivided the Fin de Siecle Company and divided it into small acreages. into 24-acre plots. Hiram Hughson’s ranch, surrounding the town John Denair, a Santa Fe Railroad superintendent, and Mr. of Hughson, put 3,000 acres up for sale. Cunningham, a Needles banker, purchased 4,500 acres of land jointly. Most of the buyers came from southern California and the The purchase included 700 acres near Delhi (Merced County), 2,900 Midwest. W.P. Stevenson of Los Angeles bought 40 acres of the acres west of Turlock, and 960 acres of the Kehoe Ranch. This land Whitmore estate for $35 per acre, while A. Marshall of Kansas was subdivided and sold for $50 an acre. Later, the Pritchard-Denair acquired 40 acres for $42.50. A prominent fruit grower from Los Land Company bought 800 acres north of Elmwood (Denair) from Angeles, Frederick Schmidt, paid $12,000 for 320 acres of land Mrs. Clara Sperry, paying $40,000 and later subdividing it. Two northeast of Modesto. A.T. Covell of Woodbridge bought 266 acres sections of Hiram Hughson’s ranch were bought and divided by ———————— 593 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— Charles Geer. W.F. Coffee put 480 acres of his land on the market. Two Root family ranches, totaling 1,400 acres, located between Dry Creek and the Tuolumne River and four miles east of Modesto, were cut into small farms. Winter 2013 (Continued from back cover) The first Calimyrna fig orchard appeared in 1904 when George Stoddard planted seven acres on his ranch north of Modesto. In order to produce fruit, the trees needed the Blastophaga Wasp’s assistance. The wasp was rare in California and a slow propagator of young. To meet the need, the federal government imported the wasp from Algiers, where it was abundant, in special tinfoil containers created by Walter T. Swingle. This took time, and the imported wasps proved to be slow propagators as well. In March 1909, swarms of the blastophaga wasp were found in a fig tree on farmland owned by Samuel Gates, nine miles west of Modesto. As the story goes, Louis Adams was the original owner, planting a fig tree in 1867, with Gates purchasing the ranch the next year. The tree grew, with Gates adoring its shade but disliking the pesky little “bugs” on its limbs. He threatened to chop the tree down many times. Swingle heard of Gates’ problem “bugs” and investigated, finding the tree swarming with the crucial Blastophaga Wasp. Gates made a fortune selling wasp-covered limbs of his fig tree. Before long, Calimyrna fig groves dotted the county in patches of 10 to 40 acres. New Vineyards Viticulture took hold quickly in the county. Paradise Ranch and Bald Eagle Ranch grew grapes successfully in limited quantities for a number of years, serving as examples of the county’s potential. Land sales advertisement, 1904 MID illus The widow of J.D. Patterson of the West Side sold 28,000 acres of Rancho El Pescadero. This was purchased by the San Joaquin and Kings River Canal and Irrigation Company at $20 per acre. This acquisition cleared the way for the Miller and Lux Canal to extend across the Rancho, thereby bringing more irrigation to the area and producing small farms. The wheat era had ended, with irrigation radically altering Stanislaus County’s landscape. Farms were immensely smaller, crops were diversified, and the population much larger and more diversified ethnically. Written by Robert LeRoy Santos Young grape vineyard in the TID CSUS Special Collections photo Now with extensive irrigation, longtime ranchers and new settlers began cultivating large vineyards. W.E. Garrison planted 50 acres of his ranch with grapes in 1904, while Frank and Joseph Martin of Salinas, who bought the F.F. Hardwich Ranch, put 80 acres into grapes. In 1906, Woodland Colony planted 22,000 Thompson Seedless vines, and near Hughson, 500 acres were converted into an enormous vineyard by new settlers from Stockton. J.E. Ward planted 60 acres of Thompson Seedless on his farm, while A.E. Moore set in 40 acres of Zinfandel vines on his land. The Maze Ranch, west of Modesto, planted 40 acres of Zinfandel and 20 of Tokay, and Broughton Colony put 250 acres into variety of grapes. The newly planted grape acreages had a selling price of $200 per acre in 1910, up from $30 in 1900. But, as with all farming, grape growers had their problems. Prices fell from $14 a ton to $4.50 as the decade unfolded, because ———————— 594 ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly —————————————— yields increased dramatically as more vineyards were planted and matured. N.O. Hultberg refused to sell his crop for such a low price, feeding the grapes to his hogs instead. Much to his elation, he discovered that they fattened quickly and sold well on the market. In 1905, it was found that some imported grape rootstocks were diseased. Stanislaus County Supervisors passed an ordinance halting their importation into the county. Afterward, it became a requirement that all grape rootstocks be inspected and fumigated before planting. Ground Crops A variety of new ground crops were tried in the irrigated fields. Sugar beets, peanuts, cotton, flax, and tobacco proved not as successful as melons, beans, and sweet potatoes in the TID. In 1906, an average of three railroad cars of cantaloupes and six of watermelons were shipped daily from Turlock at the height of the Winter 2013 industry. This troubled a number of county residents, because they felt county soil should be used to provide food and not industrial material. Professor Shaw of the University of California Agricultural Advisory Service supported these critics. A debate ensued, in which the side led by Dr. Adolph Ekstein of Modesto, the “Eucalyptus King,” argued that it was proper usage of county land. Many prominent farmers were already eucalyptus growers and supported Dr. Ekstein. The opposition lost, but soon it was discovered that eucalyptus was not suited for poles or railroad ties, because the cut lumber twisted and split when dried. The large acreages were removed, leaving some eucalyptus groves intact for windbreaks shade, and firewood. Alfalfa Alfalfa grew heartily in the county with irrigation. It proved to be especially useful as dairy feed, enhancing milk production. The plant also restored soil nutrients and produced rich fertilizer after ingestion by dairy cows. There were technical problems at first. Fields were too large, causing the flowing irrigation water to move slowly across the land, heating it, and burning the alfalfa plants. Farmers then formed smaller fields, known as checks, to speed up the water flow saving the alfalfa. At first the check levees were mounded too high, causing difficulties when haymowers and wagons negotiated them. Soon though, alfalfa fields were properly prepared and sound growing techniques were developed, resulting in widespread production of this valuable crop. The West Side in particular became known for its large alfalfa plantings. An eastern newspaper, Farmer’s Voice, claimed in its June 22, 1906 issue that Stanislaus County alfalfa was the finest around. Constructing a canal in the MID 100 Years photo harvest season. There were 1,500 acres of sweet potatoes reported under production in 1907, which increased steadily each year. The sandy soil of the valley plains was especially conducive to melons, potatoes, corn, and beans. The California-Hawaiian Sugar Refining Co. offered to build a sugar beet processing plant locally if Stanislaus County would commit 3,000 acres to sugar beet agriculture. Ora McHenry offered 1,000 acres, while C.N. Whitmore and Amos Hiatt together promised 1,000, with local businessmen collectively furnishing the final 1,000 acres. Blight struck the first crop, because the soil lacked sodium chloride. Some initial investment was lost, but once sodium chloride was applied, sugar beet farming went into full production. Eucalyptus Even though the eucalyptus tree originated in Australia, they were in such abundance in California and in Stanislaus County that they were taken to be a native plant. They were originally imported and planted to provide fast-growing, stately trees in some of California’s treeless regions. They could be used for hardwood, firewood, windbreaks, shade, and to strengthen dirt canal banks with their rootlets. Some farmers grew eucalyptus commercially for poles, railroad ties, and firewood. A Dunkard colony near Modesto grew trees for this purpose as did C.N. Whitmore of Ceres. By 1908, there were many inquiries by local farmers into the eucalyptus tree Preparing levees for irrigation MID photo As one can see, the county’s countryside took a dramatic new appearance during the first decade of the 20th century. The massive fields of wheat that once glistened golden in the hot sun were replaced with the scent of ripening fruit, lowing of dairy cattle, and the sight of busy farmers cultivating ground crops. Now irrigation canals and ditches stretched across the land, delivering miracle water to a thirsty county flatland. Written by LeRoy Santos ———————— 595 ———————— R o b e r t ———————— Stanislaus Historical Quarterly ———————— Irrigation and New County Agriculture Irrigation was introduced in Stanislaus County by the Farmers near Ceres planted the first new orchards. In July Turlock Irrigation District (TID) and Modesto Irrigation District 1901, one newspaper account described the area as one of “new (MID) in the first decade of the 20th century, causing vast changes ditches, recently leveled fields and young fruit orchards.” E.P. Ackley agriculturally. Irrigation was of Wisconsin bought acreage near introduced, because it was the Ceres and planted 700 apricot and solution to soil depletion and the 500 peach trees. Seedlings ran from occasional droughts. As the 10¢ to 15¢ each from the nursery. It wheat era progressed, it drained cost an orchardist $100 to plant and the soil of its life-giving nutrients, maintain an acre for five years or diminishing the enormous yields when tree maturity was reached. that once brought wealth to Included in the cost was $1 a day northern San Joaquin Valley for a laborer, $2 for a foreman, and ranchers. Growing wheat was an $3 for a team and driver. annual one-crop agricultural County orchard acreage program that was critically expanded slowly during this first dependent upon winter and decade. In 1905 there were 220 acres spring rainfall. Rarely was there of apricots in the county, 1,113 Water flowing down a MID canal in the early years uniformity in annual rainfall, with acres of peaches, 236 acres of Anthology photo the periodic droughts wreaking almonds, and 80 acres of walnuts. havoc on wheat production. In 1910, apricot acreage had increased to 450, peaches to 5,000, With irrigation came the necessary moisture that eliminated almonds to 800, and walnuts to 90. The expense of establishing financial impairment caused by droughts. It brought about orchards caused the gradual rise in acreage. New settlers needed diversified farming that restored soil quality, providing profits from cash crops immediately to remain solvent, which caused orchards a variety of new agricultural products. Because of irrigation, massive to be secondary projects, being planted when affordable. Quite wheat ranches were subdivided into small farms, bringing a wave commonly ground crops were planted first and a dairy kept to receive of new settlers to the county, who experimented with various types continuous revenue, allowing the farmer to become established. of agriculture in the form of orchards, ground crops, and dairy farming. Many longtime county ranchers also became actively Calimyrna Fig involved in the changing agricultural environment. It must be remembered that many fruit crops were relatively Evidence of Irrigation untried on soil that had grown wheat extensively. Settlers County residents were aware of the magic of irrigation, seeing truck farming along the rivers, well-water irrigation on the valley plains, and in the West Side, irrigation from the Miller and Lux irrigation canal, which began in 1878. Paradise Farms, west of Modesto, along the Tuolumne River, grew fruits, nuts, and vegetables for years. So had the Bald Eagle Ranch, north of Modesto, owned by Ora McHenry. They fed their crops with well-water that provided satisfying plant growth and yields. These isolated examples, and there were others, served as models in demonstrating the land’s growing potential when irrigation water was available. New Orchards The new settlers were eager to try their hand at farming the valley plains. Seeds and seedlings were needed. In December 1899, Reed and Richards, owners of the San Joaquin Nursery, bought 40 acres and leased another 40 acres of the Whitmore Ranch near Ceres and planted 50,000 peach pits to sprout seedlings. From their seedlings and from other nursery sources, orchards, vineyards, and ground crops were planted throughout the county. Stanislaus County fig orchard during first years of irrigation Anthology photo experimented with small plantings of apples, cherries, figs, lemons, oranges, plums, prunes, quince, and other fruits. Gradually some trees were eliminated for the more productive and profitable ones. A county tree crop with a shaky beginning was the Calimyrna fig, wanted for its sweetness and flavor. (Continued on page 594 )