Close To Home, A World Away

Transcription

BLOCK
Block Island Tourism Council
www.blockislandinfo.com
Complimentary
2012
ISLAND
The Sullivan House
an island original
Featured in Brides Magazine
BEAUTIFUL venue ranked with top wedding spots in
Ireland, Italy, South Africa and British Virgin Islands.
Block Island, Rhode Island - 401.466.5020 - www.TheSullivanHouse.com
Block Island beckons
Block Island is special in so many ways. Whether
visitors from Long Island, New York, to our unique little
you enjoy a laid-back beach day, a vigorous bike ride, an
island.
adventure in a kayak, or a paddleboard lesson, our little
Once you’ve arrived, you will not come across a traf-
island is worth exploring.
fic light or a big chain business, but you will be blown
away by the natural landscape with its stone wall–lined
What many people don’t realize is just how easy it is
to get here. Only 12 miles off the Rhode Island coast we
rolling hills, breathtaking bluffs, and pristine beaches.
are a 15-minute plane ride from Westerly, Rhode Island;
a half hour on the high speed ferry from Point Judith,
the perfect destination. Many of the historic inns make
Rhode Island; or just over an hour on the ferry from
unforgettable venues for your wedding or group getaway.
New London, Connecticut. And a Montauk ferry brings
If it’s an event you’re planning, Block Island may be
For anyone who enjoys outdoor activities, music, art,
dining, and endless scenic beauty, Block Island beckons...
Zena Clark
President, Block Island Tourism Council
Zena Clark with husband, Jamie Johnston,
and son, Fisher, at Mohegan Bluffs.
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Beach Real Estate
Sales • Rentals • Market Evaluations
“Let us show you the most beautiful
properties on Block Island.”
— Nancy Pike and Mary Stover
One-stop source for
Block Island Real Estate
Selling, buying or renting, our goal is to
provide you with superior service.
We provide Sellers with thorough analysis and market
strategies for selling their homes, and Buyers with
complete market information and a user friendly, up to
the minute web gallery.
We provide our Rental Owners with responsible management, Rental Customers with well maintained rental
homes that include bed linens and cleaning.
Open year-round with friendly, competent service.
Contact us now to see how we can help you!
Mary Stover and Nancy Pike, Brokers
Kathleen Saxon, Sales Associate
PO Box 1468, Ocean Avenue, Block Island, RI 02807
www.bibeachrealestate.com • 401-466-2312
Sail Away
on the
BLOCK ISLAND FERRY
Hi-Speed and Traditional ferry service from
Pt. Judith, RI. Seasonal service from Newport.
Passenger
Bikes
Vehicles*
Trucks*
Freight
* reservation required for vehicle transportation
2 Close To Home, A World Away
•
•
•
•
866-783-7996
www.blockislandferry.com
Largest Fleet
Best Schedule
Vehicles Welcome*
Year Round Service
Photo by Gerard Closset
Photo by Kari Curtis
Photo by Robin B. Langsdorf
Photo by Kate Ryan
BLOCK ISLAND Table Of Contents
Block Island: Close To Home, A World Away
is produced jointly by the Block Island
Tourism Council and the Block Island Times.
The Block Island Tourism Council
Center Road, Box 356, Block Island, RI 02807
President Zena Clark
Vice President John Cullen
2nd Vice President Brad Marthens
Secretary Ted Merritt
Treasurer Martha Ball
Members Shirley Kessler, Steve Filippi
Executive Director Jessica K. Willi
Ocean Avenue, Box 278, Block Island, RI 02807
Phone: (401) 466-2222 Fax: (401) 466-8804
www.blockislandtimes.com
Co-publishers Fraser and Betty Lang
Editor Lisa Stiepock
Copy Editors Martha Ball, Kari Curtis
Production Chris Izzo of CRI Design
© 2012 Block Island Tourism Council & Block Island Times
Cover photo by Kari Curtis
1 Block Island beckons
22 History all around you
5 Getting here is easy!
24 Where to stay
7 The Island 411
26 Where to eat
9 Block Island is a
nature lover’s paradise
29 Boating
12 Block Island beaches
31 Nightlife
33 Community
16 Recreation
35 Special Events
18 Shopping
36 Island Map
20 Arts
SPONSORS:
Block Island Reservations, The Sullivan House, Island Inns, The Atlantic Inn, Ballard Hall
Real Estate, Beach Real Estate, Block Island Conservancy, Block Island Express, Block
Island Fishworks, Deepwater Wind, Interstate Navigation, Lila Delman Real Estate, New
England Airlines, Newport Convention and Visitors Bureau, Payne’s Harbor View Inn, Poor
People’s Pub, Providence Convention and Visitors Bureau, Sullivan Real Estate
“Block Island, where calm is contagious
and beauty is king.”
– coastalliving.com
3
You’ll always remember
your summer
on Block Island
Somewhere on Block Island there’s the perfect
summer cottage for you. And we can help
you ﬁnd it. We have an extensive selection of
rental homes and if you’re interested in taking
advantage of the current buyers’ market we can
help you with that too.
From North Light to Black Rock nobody knows
this island better. That’s why they call us the
Island experts.
Make this summer one to remember!
Cynthia Pappas, Broker
Gail Heinz, Sandra Hopf, Shannon Morgan, Logan Mott, Rebecca Pappas
Sullivan Real Estate • The Island Experts since 1967
401 466-5521 • www.sullivanbi.com
Photo by Lesley Ulrich
Photo by Michael Melford
Photo by Thomas Fredericks
Getting here is easy!
More than 20 million people are within a four-hour drive of the ferries and airline that bring visitors to
Block Island, and 10 million can reach a ferry or airplane in less than two hours.
By Ferry
Block Island Ferry/Interstate
Navigation provides year-round
service from Point Judith,
Rhode Island (304 Great Island
Road, Narragansett, R.I.) to Old
Harbor, Block Island. This is the
only ferry that can take vehicles
to the island, and reservations
for them are required. Passengers do not need reservations
for the roughly one-hour trip. In
the summer months a ferry also
runs from Fort Adams State
Park in Newport, Rhode Island
(1 Lincoln Drive, Newport, R.I.).
Schedules and information at
(866) 783-7996 or blockislandferry.com.
Block Island Hi-Speed Ferry/
Interstate Navigation runs a highspeed catamaran from mid-May
through mid-October that gets
you from Point Judith (304 Great
Island Road, Narragansett, R.I.)
to Old Harbor in 30 minutes.
Schedules and more information call (866) 783-7996 or visit
blockislandferry.com.
Block Island Express gets you to
Old Harbor in just over one hour
on a high-speed catamaran from
a terminal in New London (2
Ferry St., New London, Conn.)
that’s right next to the Amtrak
train station. It runs May through
September. Schedules and
information at (860) 444-4624 or
goblockisland.com.
Information on transportation to
and from Point Judith and New
London is available on the ferry
web sites as well.
Montauk Ferry runs between
the tip of Long Island, New York
(462 West Lake Drive, Montauk,
N.Y. ), and Block Island during
the summer. The trip takes just
under two hours. Schedules and
vikingfleet.com.
By Private Boat
Dock your own boat at one of
four full-service marinas or anchor in either Old Harbor or New
Harbor. For more information on
marinas, moorings, and anchorage, please visit blockislandinfo.
com.
By Commuter Plane
New England Airlines has provided daily scheduled air service to
Block Island from Westerly since
1970. The airport in Westerly
(56 Airport Road, Westerly, R.I.)
is just off Interstate 95 and is an
easy drive or train ride from anywhere in New England. (Amtrak
serves Westerly with daily trains
between Washington/New York
and Boston.) Flight time is 12
minutes. Schedules and more
block-island.com/nea.
By Private Plane
Block Island State Airport
welcomes private prop planes
on its one-lane runway. There
is no control tower, but pilots
should announce themselves
on frequency 123.00. For more
information check the Airport Facility Directory for the Northeast
or call airport manager Landmark
Aviation at (401) 466-5511.
“You don’t need a car to enjoy this
picturesque retreat off the Rhode Island
coast — just a bicycle, bathing suits,
and a beachcomber’s bag.”
– from 20 Great Little Beach Towns, Disney’s FamilyFun magazine
5
The Seasons of Block Island Beckon
Go Online for Spring & Fall 2012 Packages
Visit www.blockislandinfo.com
800-383-2474 • Visit www.blockislandinfo.com
Register onine to
Win a Block
Island Getaway
Come Home To
Block Island
Real Estate Sales and Service
Whether you are looking to purchase that special Island
property or planning a relaxing vacation, Ballard Hall Real
Estate is on-island year round to assist you. Browse our
property listings and connect with one of our agents for
buyer or seller representation.
When it comes to a Block Island house rental choose from
over 100 homes, cottages and condos ranging from one to
seven bedrooms. Make your selection at our new website
featuring interior photos, pricing and weekly availability.
Call for reservations.
www.blockislandproperty.com
Gail P. Ballard Hall, Principal Broker
Corner of Ocean Ave. and Corn Neck Rd
401-466-8883
Photo by Cody Raisig
Photo by Michael Melford
Photo by Tom Adams
The Island 411
Once on island, you’ll quickly learn that the people who make up this community are as extraordinary
as the place itself. And, of course, talking with them is the best way to discover the real B. I. To that end,
we’ve included stories throughout this issue called “My Block Island,” in which islander’s reveal favorite places and activities. In the meantime, here’s info that will get you started on your own exploration.
The Facts
1661 The year Block Island
was founded
1672 The year the Town of
New Shoreham, the official
name, was incorporated
Area 7 miles long and 3 miles
wide, Block Island is shaped
like a pork chop and covers
6,000 acres
Location 12 miles off the
southern coast of Rhode Island
Population About 1,000 year
round and swells to 15,000 to
20,000 in the summer
Ponds 365 freshwater ponds,
one for every day of the year
Stone walls 300-400 miles
of human-made stone walls
Nature Trails 28 miles of
trails
Open Space 43 percent of
the Island is preserved open
space
Education One public school
with about 125 students in
grades K-12
Weather
50-60° in the spring and fall
65-80° in the summer
25-40° in the winter
Street Addresses Because
the U.S. Postal Service delivers
only to the island post office,
street addresses do not exist.
Instead, all buildings have fire
numbers. They are non-sequential, however, and should not be
relied on for directions.
Getting Around
On Foot. The sneaker express is an easy way to enjoy
the shops, restaurants and hotels in Old Harbor. A 15-minute
walk from the ferry will take you
to the main beach.
On Bikes. Bicycles are an
affordable and enjoyable way to
explore the island. Rental stands
offer bikes to fit the needs of
the entire family or bring your
own over on the ferry.
On Mopeds. Mopeds can
be rented around the island,
and can accommodate one or
two people. Mopeds may be
driven on all paved roads, but
are not allowed on dirt roads.
By Taxi. Taxi service is available island-wide. A taxi stand
is located by the ferry docks in
Old Harbor, and taxis regularly
wait for customers at New
Harbor. Most can hold parties
of five or more and offer island
tours as well as getting you
from here to there.
By Car. Depending on your
itinerary, you may or may not re-
quire a vehicle while here. In the
busy summer months, keeping
the number of cars on-island to
a minimum is encouraged. However, the spring and fall provide
comparatively empty roads.
For More Information
Visitor Info
B.I. Tourism Council
B.I. Chamber of Commerce
(800) 383-BIRI
www.blockislandchamber.com
“Unpretentious Block Island is a barefoot
and bicycle kind of place, with rolling
green hills, hundreds of freshwater ponds,
and dramatic 250-foot bluffs that remind
many of Ireland. So bewitching is it that
The Nature Conservancy was inspired to
call the island ‘one of the last great places in
the western hemisphere.’”
– 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, 2011 edition
7
NEWPORT | NARRAGANSETT | PROVIDENCE | JAMESTOWN | WATCH HILL | BLOCK ISLAND
Opening Fine Homes to the World ™...LILADELMAN.COM
61 DODGE STREET | 401-466-8777 | [email protected]
Coast To
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Photos courtesy: Block Island Tourism Council/Michael Melford
ic01 BI TOURISM GUIDE Ad:Layout 1 2/2/12 11:26 AM Page 1
Daily Flights
Free Parking at Westerly Airport
The Fastest Way to Block Island
Information & Reservations
800.243.2460
Block Island 401.466.5881
Westerly 401.596.2460
Your Home Town Airline Since 1970
Block Island is a nature
lover’s paradise
Twenty-eight miles of walking trails, acres of open space, a haven for
fish and wildlife, it’s no wonder Block Island was named one of the last great places
in the western hemisphere by The Nature Conservancy. More than 43 percent of
the island is preserved, and walking is an excellent way to take in the rolling hills,
lush farmland, and stunning vistas. Look for peregrine falcons and red-tailed hawks
in the sky, ring-necked pheasants and American woodcocks among the abundant
wildflowers, and seals perched on beach rocks. Block Island is renowned for its
beauty and commitment to preservation. Once you visit, you’ll understand why!
Photo by Nat Rea
Block Island Numbers
365
Approximate number
of fresh water ponds
“This 7-mile-long isle off the Rhode
Island coast is an unpretentious mix of
wildlife preserves, old Victorian hotels and
weathered gray houses, stone walls and
inland moors, nature trails and freshwater
ponds, and windswept bluffs and sandy
beaches that sometimes, on a quiet day in
spring or fall, seems more like a corner
of Europe than New England. While the
island doesn’t take itself too seriously, it
does take nature very seriously indeed.
About one-third of it is protected from
development, and the entire shoreline is
open to the public.”
– from the Destinations site of Islands magazine
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9
Don’t Miss
1. Clay Head Nature Trail offers walkers
unparalleled views along the northeastern
shore of the island. Accessed by a dirt road
leading off Corn Neck Road, across from a
yellow Victorian house and just two miles
from the beach pavilion, the path meanders
along the bluffs before ending at Settlers’
Rock. Branching off this main trail are several
other smaller interconnected trails known as
the maze.
2. Rodman’s Hollow is a wild and beautiful cleft in the rolling terrain left over from a
melting glacier. Hawks, deer, and all manner
of trees, wildflowers, and other vegetation
populate the hollow. Walking trails lead to
Black Rock.
3. Mohegan Bluffs, to the west of the
Southeast Lighthouse, provide a magnificent
coastal view. On clear days it’s even possible
to glimpse Montauk, New York, some 20
miles away. There is a wooden staircase that
leads to the beach below. The climb down and
back is challenging, however, and the footing
at the bottom is extremely difficult. That said,
the swimming is unsurpassed.
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Photo by Nat Rea
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Photo by Kate Ryan
4. Abrams’ Animal Farm offers a diverse
collection of exotic and domestic animals
maintained by Justin Abrams, whose family
owns and operates The 1661 Inn and Hotel
Manisses. Visitors to the farm can view and
pet llamas, emus, sheep, donkeys, goats,
swans and ducks. There are even kangaroos,
camels, and lemurs.
5. Ocean View Pavilion is a comfortable sitting area near Old Harbor that offers stunning
ocean vistas. Maintained by the Ocean View
Foundation, the area marks the spot where
the magnificent Ocean View Hotel once
stood. The Ocean View Foundation runs environmental education programs for children
and adults year round.
6. Walking Trails crisscross the entire island.
The Greenway is a web of trails that connects
miles of natural habitat and provides memorable hikes for visitors. The Enchanted Forest,
the Turnip Farm, the Dodge Cemetery, and
the site of the Old Mill are just a few of the
natural features to be explored in this walker’s
escape. Among many other worthwhile hikes
is the one that takes you through the gorgeous Hodge Family Wildlife Preserve toward
the end of Corn Neck Road.
2
7. The Nature Conservancy, on High
Street, provides a wealth of information about
the island’s wildlife and plants. Stop by to pick
up trail maps or bird checklists and find out
about nature walks and other free programs.
8. Beach Paths take you through the dunes
to the beach all along Corn Neck Road and
elsewhere on the island. Take care to stay
on the paths and protect the island’s delicate
sand dunes.
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3
4
“The best ways to get around are by bicycle
or on foot. More than 30 miles of trails crisscross the island, including the Greenway, a
series of paths that stretches from the center
of the island to the southern shoreline.”
Photo by Kate Ryan
– from the Destinations site of Islands magazine
8
Andrew McGarry, fifth grade student at the Block Island School
Photo by Nat Rea
I like the freedom of living on the island. I
have lots of things I can do and privileges like
fishing and going to the beach. In other places
people drive hours to get to the beach, and I
can walk there! I love that everybody on the
island is friends with everybody else.
Fishing is my favorite thing to do. Me and
my best friends Reilly and Sawyer always find
new spots. We might have a sleepover and
then we’ll go look for a new place to fish or by
accident we’ll be walking and find a new pond.
I’ve done a lot of different types of fishing.
I go to the channel near the Coast Guard
Station to go surfcasting and I catch bluefish
and striped bass. One night at the channel with
my dad, I cast my first line out and caught a
bluefish; it was a small one so I threw it back.
My next line out I caught a little tiny striper and
threw it back. But with my next line I caught
a 25-pound, 30-inch striper and this kept
My Block Island
happening ‘til I reached the limit of 3 stripers.
During the local fishing tournament I
went out on a boat called the G. Willie Makit
that I recommend because the captain and
deckhand are really nice. I got first place in
the bluefish division because I was the only
one in my age group; the fish was only nine
pounds! My brother — that I love more than
anything — caught a 35-pound striper and got
first place in the whole tournament.
The only thing I like as much as fishing is
my family and Super Bowl Sunday. My family
goes on picnics at Clay Head in the summer.
We take walks through the maze and out
to Mohegan Bluffs. One thing I really love is
meeting up with my friends to ride bikes –
that’s our transportation in the summer. And
banana boating. I love banana boating.
Andrew McGarry
6
11
Block Island beaches
17 miles of sandy fun and
peaceful bits of paradise
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Photo by Annie Hall
“The packed-sand [Crescent] Beach stretches
for miles along Block Island’s east coast ...
Wherever you plant your umbrella, smalltown wholesomeness reigns ...sailboats drift
past and patriotic banners decorate the
wraparound porches. This is one beach that
you — and the kids — won’t forget.”
– from 10 Best Island Beaches in the World 2009, Islands magazine
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Photo by Celeste Sloman
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6
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Photo by Annie Hall
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0
1
Number of private
beaches. All beaches
are open to the public
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2
12
3
14
15
11
4
5
16a
6
7
16b
16c
10
9
8
10
Block Island Beaches
1. Cow Cove is near Settlers’ Rock.
Although the shoreline is rocky, it offers
some of the best coastal views and also
sports the historic North Light. This is
not a place for swimming because of
a strong riptide. Be careful where you
walk too: the beach is a nesting area for
many rare birds.
2. Mansion Beach lies at the end of
a dirt road with the same name. The
island’s most stately mansion once sat
here until fire destroyed the house and
it was never rebuilt. However, the beach
fits the name by being one of the island’s
grandest. Mansion marks the north end
of what’s known as Crescent Beach.
3. Scotch Beach is a quarter mile north
of Fred Benson Town Beach. Scotch
is a sandbox for kids and the place to
go for vacationers looking for a hotly
contested game of volleyball. A small
parking lot sits between the road and
the dunes.
4. Fred Benson Town Beach is
home to Block Island’s fully equipped
bathhouse. In addition to showers,
lockers, food, and rental items, the
beach is staffed with lifeguards in the
summer months. The small parking lot
fills up fast.
5. Baby Beach is a well-sheltered beachfront at the south end of what’s known
as Crescent Beach (Mansion marks the
north end), where children can easily
play in the shallow waters.
6. Surf Beach, named for The Surf Ho14 Close To Home, A World Away
tel above it, is an ideal place to snorkel
and check out the abundant sea life,
such as small crabs and starfish, and
to hunt for shells and sand dollars. Surf
Beach marks the south end of what’s
known as Crescent Beach.
7. Ballard’s Beach is located on the
south side of the Old Harbor breakwater adjacent to Ballard’s restaurant.
Staffed with lifeguards throughout the
summer months, it is also a popular
destination for sunbathing, swimming,
and volleyball.
8. Mohegan Bluffs beachfront is found
at the bottom of a steep set of stairs,
141 steps to be exact. The payoff is a
secluded and spectacularly beautiful, if
rocky, place to swim and surf.
9. Vaill Beach is a large beach at the
bottom of a hollow. The path to it is located at the bend in Snake Hole Road.
At the base of the bend turn left and
walk for approximately 50 yards. The
surf here is rough and rocks line the
shallows, so swimmers should exercise
caution.
10.Black Rock boasts expanses of sand
and a series of coves at the base of a
cliff. Swimming is difficult because of the
large number of rocks, but it’s a perfect
place for an oceanside hike. The area
takes its name from a large, dark rock
that rests offshore in about 15 feet of
water and has spelled the end for many
ships. Located a pace off the main road,
it’s best to walk or bike to get there.
11.Mosquito Beach, also known as
“Dinghy Beach,” is located just across
the road from Scotch Beach, providing
a place for boaters in New Harbor to
tie up their rafts and dinghies. There
are majestic views of Great Salt Pond,
making it a good backdrop for photos.
12.Andy’s Way is the island’s premiere
clamming spot. Standing at the end of
a dirt road that bears the same name,
it’s a good place to take a stroll. Just
north is Beane Point, U.S. Fish and
Wildlife property that is home to many
rare birds.
13.West Beach is lightly trafficked and
has gentle surf. It’s perfect for walking
and is close to the North Light.
14.Coast Guard Beach is at the end
of Champlin Road and derives its name
from the decomissioned Coast Guard
station there. Don’t swim here, but it’s
a good place for clamming and fishing.
15.Charlestown Beach is popular with
fishermen because it has a long jetty at
its end. Typically uncrowded, it’s a nice
spot to watch the boats come into New
Harbor.
16.Grace’s, Dorrie’s, and Cooneymous coves are secluded beaches
on the west side of the island. Perfect
for challenging hikers or for those looking for an out-of-the-way spot to catch a
sunset.
2
“When it comes to New England,
everyone talks about the beaches of
Martha’s Vineyard. The ones on
Block Island, Rhode Island, are just
as lovely and much more accessible.”
– from World’s 11 Best Secret Beaches, 2011, The Daily Beast
8
5
9
Photo by Dan West
Photo by Kate Ryan
12
3
Photo by The Nature Conservancy
Ardys Filippone, Shellfish Commission Chairperson
Photo by Dan West
A perfect Block Island day has to involve the
water in one way or another. You have to at least
look at it, even if you aren’t going to romp around
in it.
When my children were younger I loved taking
them to the beach and watching them play in the
sand and the sea. Now that they are grown I tend
to head more to the beaches around Cormorant
Cove or the clam flats to go shellfishing. When I
was shellfish warden I used to love meeting and
talking to new people. They would become friends
and I’d get to see the kids come back growing up
year after year.
I still love to gather my clams — free food! — and
make a home cooked meal of fresh caught seafood
and vegetables from my garden.
When I was younger my parents would take us
My Block Island
all around to catch seafood or pick berries and we’d
grow things in the garden. We would go fishing at
the cut and I loved to listen to the people arguing
on the boats.
There was a time I used to like going to the
island’s bars, but I had to stop doing that when my
children got old enough to go themselves! Now I
just love to stay home at night and sit outside and
listen to the waves crashing on the beach. You can’t
see much of the water from my house, but you can
hear the waves, I just love that sound.
I really love all the seasons out here, too, and
all types of weather, from a good hurricane to the
most perfect sunny September day. Every day is an
ideal day here. I haven’t been to many places, but I
wouldn’t trade Block Island for anything.
Ardys Filippone
6
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Close
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Pond and Beyond by Dan West
Biking by Malcolm Greenaway
Recreation
Nia by Dan West
Surfing by Lesley Ulrich
Whether you surf, sail, kayak, snorkel, or fish,
dawn! For more information, visit the Block Island Tourism
Block Island offers plenty of ocean and pond adventure.
Council’s web site at blockislandinfo.com.
The pounding surf and temperate waters are perfect for surfing, paddleboarding, windsurfing, kiteboarding, parasailing,
scuba diving, and sea kayaking, and there are a number of
local businesses that rent equipment and offer lessons and
summer camps. Banana boating is a big favorite of local kids.
There’s offshore adventure in the form of sail and pow-
erboat charters. Inland pursuits include biking, hiking, and
all manner of exercise classes, such as yoga, Nia, aerobics and
more — you can even take yoga classes on paddleboards at
“If you prefer to fully engage the water instead of flirting at its edges, you can kayak
in a brackish pond or charter a sail- or
fishing boat. The island, especially in fall, is
known for its striped bass.”
– from “On Tiny Block Island, Summer Lasts Longer,”
The New York Times.
Smuggler’s by Robin B. Langsdorf
Breakwater by Robin B. Langsdorf
Snorkeling by Steve Lighty
12
Surfcasting by Gerard Closset
Number of miles
from the Rhode
Island coast
Snorkeling by Steve Lighty
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Lazy Fish
Eylandt Antiques by Kari Curtis
Rags by Lisa Stiepock
Block Island Sport Shop by Malcolm Greenaway
Chapel Sweets by Kari Curtis
Shopping
Do a little credit card damage in one of the
everything from fishing and surfing gear to sunscreen and
island’s fine clothing shops; pick out a memento or Block
paperback books.
Island-themed sweatshirt as a keepsake from your island
In addition to the shopping in town, there are farmer’s
vacation at one of the charming gift shops; or browse for
markets where island artists, chefs and farmers gather each
fine art or pottery in the downtown’s many galleries.
Wednesday and Saturday morning to sell their wares. It’s
Only steps away from the ferry dock in Old Harbor is
a great way to pick up locally grown produce, home-baked
the heart of Block Island’s historic downtown. Most island
goodies, locally made preserves, handcrafted jewelry, and
stores are Mom and Pop businesses and the range of items
much more.
offered is truly astounding. Homemade honey and candles
Be sure to pencil in the Christmas Stroll for late fall: Dur-
vie for space with designer handbags and fashionable
ing the Thanksgiving Day weekend, scores of island stores
bathing suits and board shorts. Forget something? Not a
open their doors and offer dynamite discounts just in time
problem. There are a host of choices to hook you up with
for the holidays.
“Fans of Block Island tend to describe this
jewel 12 miles off the coast of Rhode Island
in terms of what it isn’t: The Hamptons
without the attitude. A historic seaport minus
the theme restaurants and chain stores.
An understated Nantucket.”
– from Best Places to Vacation: Beach, Money Magazine
Diamondblue Surf Shop by Alcy and Brooke
0
Number of
traffic lights
Water Street by Gerard Closset
Ann Fagan, Chamber of Commerce
In 1968 we took a day trip out here with
my husband Lew’s parents and then came
back the following year to celebrate our tenth
anniversary. We absolutely fell in love with the
island and came every year after that to stay
at the Surf Hotel with our three kids. We liked
hiking, biking, and swimming.
In 1974, we found a spot of land to buy
on Beacon Hill and about a decade later, we
started building our post and beam house
— the start of our dream of being able to
retire on Block Island. In 1997 I got a job
at the Chamber as a tourist counselor and
bookkeeper, and I’m still there. When Lew
retired the following year, he started working
at the airport, and he’s still working there!
The island continues to amaze us. Going
My Block Island
down Champlin Road is one example,
especially when you come around that last
corner and see Charlestown Beach; it looks
like a painting. We loved kayaking on the Salt
Pond early in the morning — there’s not a
sound but the paddle hitting the water and, of
course, the birds.
We just love the friendliness of the
community, the quietness of winter, sitting on
the beach watching the sunset, the smell of
beach roses and honeysuckle in the spring.
And we are still just awed by the night skies
out here. Everything is here that we love.
Ann Fagan
19
Marilyn Bogdanffy by Kari Curtis
Jessie Edwards Studio by Lisa Stiepock
Arts
Spring Street Gallery by Kari Curtis
Art Fair by Celeste Sloman
Block Island’s natural beauty, its rolling hills,
that dot the downtown, during the half-dozen Arts and
vivid skyline, cliff-top vistas, and fog-cloaked hollows
Crafts Guild shows hosted on the Historical Society lawn
have inspired poets, painters, potters, musicians, and
each season, and at Farmer’s Markets every Wednesday and
photographers. Its solitude and grandeur have also created
Saturday morning.
a vibrant community where artists can create in a place that,
The Historical Society hosts weekly Capt. Kidd art
in the off seasons, is removed from the hustle and bustle of
classes, and painting workshops for adults can be found
ordinary life and, in summer, is filled with visitors seeking
all spring and fall. In addition, island resident and Rhode
to view and buy their work. From the Highview Hotel’s
Island Poet Laureate Lisa Starr organizes poetry workshops
frescoed scenes of simple island life created by H.D.
that attract writers from around the world.
Wetherbee in 1948 in exchange for whiskey and rent, to
So grab your paintbrush, your canvas or your notebook,
Malcolm Greenaway’s landscape photography, Block Island
head for a secluded beach or rolling meadow, and let Block
art has become world-renowned.
Island inspire your creativity.
Local artists and craftsmen show at the many galleries
“The artists who flock to the area record
it for posterity, and the lucky people who
take a piece of the art home have something
to remind them of their visit to one of the
nation’s great art destinations.”
– from “Collecting Fine Art in Cape Cod and the Islands,”
American Art Collector magazine July 2010, on
Cape Cod, Nantucket, the Vineyard, and Block Island.
Farmers’ Market by Celeste Sloman
Sculpture and photo by Stuart Littlefield
Lesley Ulrich, The Photo Dog Art Gallery
My parents promised me that as soon
as I graduated from high school I could
work on Block Island. So I was off the day
after graduation. I spent my first summer
changing beds and scrubbing bathrooms
at The Spring House. I didn´t care. I was
on Block Island. It was awesome. Through
the years I worked at the Harborside, The
Wave, Captain Nicks, Sharky´s, Shoals, The
Farmers Market, The Spring Street Gallery,
The National Hotel, and The Photo Dog.
It has been 13 wonderful summers and
off seasons that I have called Block Island
home. Five years ago I decided to take a
giant step in my life and take over The Photo
Dog. I wanted to put my BFA in photography
to good use. The fact that I could do what I
went to school for, in my favorite place, was
too good to be true. I began photographing
weddings and doing family portraits in the
My Block Island
evenings on the beach as well as working
night and day at the gallery and pulling an
occasional bar shift. Using Block Island as my
outdoor studio has been a blessing. It makes
my day when someone comes to the island
and wants to buy one of my photographs or
driftwood signs to take home as a reminder
of this special place.
I love that I live here. I love the tight
community and that everyone waves in
passing. I love being so busy in the summer
and looking forward to the off season when
it all slows down. I love that everywhere
I look there is life and beauty. Most of all I
love the bond that I have with friends who
live on the island, and that we share the
same appreciation of this special place that
I call home.
Lesley Ulrich
21
245
Number of feet the
Southeast Lighthouse
was moved in 1993
History all around you
Historical Society by Kari Curtis
Block Island’s history is a rich one, encompassing
mentioning shipwrecks. While some have become the stuff
Native American tribes, Revolutionary War heroes, legend-
of legend, others remain accessible for sport divers. Among
ary shipwrecks, and its emergence in the late 1800s as one
the legendary is the Princess Augusta, which inspired John
of New England’s premiere summer attractions.
Greenleaf Whittier’s 1867 poem The Palatine.
Learn more about the island’s history by visiting the
Block Island’s rough seas and rocky coastlines would
Historical Society Museum and gift shop downtown. A white
certainly have claimed more ships were it not for two light-
mansard-roofed building, the Historical houses an extensive
houses. The North and Southeast lighthouses have achieved
collection of furniture, textiles, quilts, oral histories, fish-
iconic status, revered for their historic significance and
ing gear, tools, and Native American artifacts. Then head to
beloved as symbols of the community spirit that has allowed
Issac’s Corner, at the intersection of Center Road, Lakeside
them to be restored and preserved.
Drive, and Cooneymous roads. Named for the island’s last
The Southeast Lighthouse made national headlines in the
full-blooded Native American, who died in 1886, it is near
early nineties when, after years of erosion, it found itself just
the Indian burial ground and the stone monument erected
50 feet from the cliff’s edge. Islanders banded together to
just last year in honor of the Manissean Indians.
save the beloved structure, raising nearly $2 million in fed-
On that same corner, overlooking Fresh Pond, sits the
gambrel-roofed cottage of composer and poet Arthur Penn,
who lived there with his wife Nell in the 1920s. His song
Smilin’ Through is named for his Block Island home.
No history of Block Island would be complete without
eral and private grants and donations to move the lighthouse
245 feet back from the bluff.
You’ll want to see the North Light, too, by hiking past
Settler’s Rock. The lantern on that lighthouse was recently
restored and re-lit, and its small museum renovated.
Historical Society interior by Kari Curtis
Manissean Monument by Robin B. Langsdorf
Southeast Light living quarters by Malcolm Greenaway
North Light by Malcolm Greenaway
Southeast Light by Gerard Closset
“Lighthouses come in many shapes and
sizes, and as a sailor I’ve seen my share. But
Southeast Lighthouse stands out in
any crowd. The redbrick tower is not
particularly high - about 50 feet nor does it need to be, perched where it is.
What’s impressive is its purposeful,
octagonal solidity, a fitting base for the
huge light chamber that crowns it.”
Southeast Light by Malcolm Greenaway
– from “Memory’s Isle: Return to Block Island,” The New York Times
23
Where to stay
Rent a cottage for a week or choose among 68 hotels, inns, and b&bs
Block Island has the largest collection of
properties and a slew of able real estate agents to help you
Victorian era hotels of any vacation destination on the
find the picturesque vacation home that’s just right for you
Eastern seaboard. Among the architectural gems are the
and your family.
Atlantic Inn, the Spring House, Hotel Manisses, and the
National Hotel. Many are historic landmarks that have been
lovingly restored to their original grandeur and beauty.
The island is also famous for its quaint bed and
breakfasts and guest houses. You’ll find friendly and
knowledgeable proprietors who are eager to hand out
advice about things to see and do.
For longer visits, Block Island has scores of rental
0
Number of
chain stores and
restaurants
View from the Atlanti Inn by Kari Curtis
The National Hotel by Gerard Closset
“Dubbed the ‘Bermuda of the North’
during its Victorian-era heyday,
Block Island still boasts a number of
rambling porch-fringed buildings,
which wear their age with dignity.”
– 1,000 Places to See Before You Die, 2011 edition
The Sullivan House by Gerard Closset
Julie Fuller, General Manager, The National Hotel
Block Island is a part of me. My grandmother,
Iva Littlefield, was born and raised on the
island. My parents bought a summer home
here in 1973 so my brothers and I spent our
summers growing up playing with cousins and
really coming to consider Block Island home.
And now I am fortunate to still be doing my
“summer job” after almost 30 years.
The National Hotel can be crazy and busy and
keeps me going in a million directions but over
the years I have worked with wonderful people,
our guests that return every year are like family
and when I get the chance, I can stand on the
porch and enjoy the beautiful view.
I am especially lucky to be able to give my
twin 12-year-old boys the opportunity to spend
My Block Island
their summers on Block Island. They have told
me many times that they hope I never retire!
Sam and John think the beaches are beautiful,
they love being a part of The National and
they love their Block Island friends. They have
really grown up helping me in the hotel, from
checking rooms to picking up the trash around
the property to helping to carry luggage for
guests.
Having children helped me to stop and
appreciate what Block Island has to offer.
Our days off are spent at the beach, hiking
the nature trails, clamming and fishing. I really
cannot imagine working or living anywhere
else in the summer.
Julie Fuller
25
Dead Eye Dick’s by Lisa Stiepock
Aldo’s Restaurant
The Narragansett
Aldo’s Bakery
The Beachead
Where to eat
From family-friendly to romantic fine dining,
legendary fish sandwiches, snack on clam cakes or mahi-
Block Island can satisfy your hunger at any of nearly 40
mahi, feast on buckets of shrimp and enjoy the spectacular
restaurants and pubs.
ocean views.
Seafood lovers will delight in the dizzying number of
But Block Island offers more than just seafood. Hungry for
ways our local chefs prepare fresh catch. Many of the
falafel, eggplant rollatini, sushi, pad thai, freshly-made bagels,
island’s most beloved seafood joints are less than a five-
or a lemon-lime gelato? Block Island has you covered.
minute walk from the beach or ferry. Bite into one of our
The Atlantic Inn by Trevor Holden
“The island also excels at marrying
cocktails and views. There may be no better
place to salute the summer on the Eastern
Seaboard than at sunset happy hour on
the front lawn of the majestic 130-yearold
Atlantic Inn. Adirondack chairs and
rockers fan out along a hill, serviced by
waiters balancing fanciful cocktails as the
sky turns hues of orange, purple and red.”
Ballard’s Inn by Kari Curtis
– from On Tiny Block Island, Summer Lasts Longer
The New York Times, September 11, 2009
Garry Censorio and Rich Tretheway, G.R. Sharky’s Restaurant
I came out here 28 years ago to work for
Finn’s as their chef and I never left. I met my
wife Sheila at that time — she was a waitress
there — and 28 years later, our kids are
both out of college and we’re still here, still
in the restaurant business. I love the thrill of
the busy summers and the quiet rewards of
winter when we get the island back. I love
that you know everybody; it’s a great, great
place to raise a family.
And of course, I love the fishing out here.
When I can catch fish and serve it on the menu
that’s the ultimate. We do a sesame tuna at
Sharky’s that’s amazing — with a soy glaze
and fresh wasabi on top. I love fishing for a
striper and sometimes I’ll do a fresh striper
with a strawberry and Frangelico sauce; we
have people coming in asking for that every
year.
Garry Censorio
My Block Island
I summered here since I was born in 1968,
staying at my grandparent’s home on Dorrie’s
Cove. At 14, I got my first summer job,
dishwashing for Garry at Finn’s. When Garry
started running Ernie’s upstairs, I took his job
as head chef at Finn’s and after 10-plus years
at Finn’s and Ernie’s we partnered as chefs at
the Highview and then took over Corn Neck
Country Kitchen. About 15 years ago we
opened G.R. Sharky’s. [G. R. for Garry/Rich.]
I like the people on Block Island. Where
else can you know 600 people by name, and
know their families, and their stories? Another
thing I enjoy about being out here is the way
the population changes. It wouldn’t be right if
it were always 900 people like in the winter
or 10,000 like in the summer. Just when it’s
getting to be too much, it’s like leaves falling
off trees, the people fall of the island. You
look forward to it just like the seasons, their
coming and their going.
Rich Tretheway
27
Photo by Dan West
Photo by Dan West
Boating
boaters from around the world find harbor in
Or take to the miles of sandy beaches and rocky shoreline
more than 50 acres of anchorage and more than 100 public
for fly fishing and surfcasting. Shore access is unrestricted
moorings. No boat? No problem. Rental boats and a charter
around the entire island. Just don’t forget to stop by the is-
fishing fleet await to take visitors out on the Great Salt
land’s two tackle shops for bait or suggestions about where
Pond, the Block Island Sound, and, of course, the Atlantic
the action is. And don’t forget about the clam flats, either!
Ocean for striped bass, bluefish, tuna, bonito, mahi-mahi,
For mooring, anchorage, and docking information, visit
shark, and more. The island hosts the Tri-State Canyon
the Block Island Tourism Council’s web site at blockisland-
Shootout, a premiere offshore invitational fishing tourna-
info.com.
ment held out of New Harbor each August.
29
Poor People’s Pub by Lesley Ulrich
Club Soda
Poor People’s Pub by Lesley Ulrich
Bonfire by John Freidah Mahogany Shoals, Payne’s Dock
Champlin’s Dock
Nightlife
After a day of swimming, fishing, sailing or hiking,
you need to relax — just not too much! A different island
adventure awaits you after dark. Block Island bars and nightclubs are among the best in New England. You’ll find local
brews, mudslides, and margarita madness to go with the live
Ballard’s Inn by Rose Schaller
music that will keep you dancing well into the night.
31
The Atlantic Inn
A Block Island tradition since 1879
Susan Sancomb
For an unforgettable evening with breathtaking views…
Tapas, cocktails and sunsets…
A romantic candlelight dinner…
Or just relaxation at its Best…
The Atlantic Inn
www.atlanticinn.com
401-466-5883
Deepwater Wind Block Island Office
Post Office Building, Suite 204,
P.O. Box 116, Block Island, RI 02807
Contact Bryan Wilson at 401.474.5782
Fax: 401.466.5943
[email protected]
facebook.com/DeepwaterWind
Blues on the Beach by Robin B. Langsdorf
Farmers’ Market by Robin B. Langsdorf
Ice Boating by Dan West
Bingo Night by Robin B. Langsdorf
Block Island School concert by Kari Curtis
Block Island School singers by Kari Curtis
Community
When you step onto Block Island you’ll find an is-
find this interdependence creates a sense of community
land that includes not just rare birds, fantastic beaches and
unrivaled anywhere else.
miles of hiking trails, but a close, caring community.
You’ll find that this community, my neighbors, cares.
I grew up here and have witnessed many changes, but
They deeply care about each other, about the environment
one thing that has remained the same all these years is the
around them and about those coming to enjoy this island.
people. When you visit you’ll meet some of our 948 year-
Perhaps that’s why we’re so proud to show off this island
round residents that run businesses, send their children
gem to the world.
to school, offer directions to the passing tourist and wear
many, many hats.
I encourage you to come visit, meet my neighbors and
share in this special place.
It’s not unusual to see your taxi cab driver as your waiter
Kim Gaffett
at dinner or the First Warden leading a nature walk. You’ll
First Warden/Nature-walk leader
33
Payne’s Harbor View Inn
A Modern Inn With An Historic Feel
Rooms feature water views, private
decks, antique furnishings and
whirlpool baths.
Take in the view from the spacious
veranda overlooking Great Salt Pond.
Enjoy sushi, tapas, drinks and
spectacular sunsets.
Special rates in Spring and Fall.
Box 1781, Block Island, RI 02807
401-466-5758
www.paynesharborviewinn.com
Blues on the Beach by Robin B. Langsdorf
Motoring Event by Jessica Willi
Soap Box Derby by Kari Curtis
Special Events
Block Island’s best kept secret may be the pleasure of its shoulder seasons. Spring and fall are quieter
and perhaps even more gorgeous than summer and A Taste
of Block Island weekends, June 1-3 and September 21-23
in 2012, give guests a chance to sample the island’s inns,
restaurants, and activities at a deep discount.
Popular annual celebrations include the Fourth of July,
Wedding at Saint Andrew by Mia Campopiano
Winter happenings include the Christmas Shopping
of course, but also races such as the Shad Bloom race in
Stroll over Thanksgiving weekend, the Polar Bear Plunge on
early May, the August triathlon, and September’s 15K Run
New Year’s Day, and the Groundhog Day census.
Around the Block; art and music festivals throughout the
One secret that’s definitely out is how much fun it is to
summer including the popular Blues on the Beach concerts
have your wedding on Block Island: Every year more and
at Fred Benson Town Beach; and fall classics like the Mo-
more couples choose the island for a close to home, but
toring Event and the Soap Box Derby. Everyone’s excited
worlds away destination celebration. Tour groups, whether
about a new event this year, a Glass Floats Treasure Hunt
cyclists from Denmark or yogis from San Francisco are get-
June 2, where visitors and islanders will comb beaches
ting in the act, too, as are corporations hosting conventions
and trails for fishing-float-style glass balls handblown and
out here. Find a full listing of events in 2012 at blockisland-
stamped with an island shape by artist Eben Horton.
info.com or on the calendar at blockislandtimes.com.
35
Co
Necrkn
Rd
D
17
Old
Harbor
ad
23
eet
Str
St.
e
odg
t er
Ocea
Avenune
Wa
1. North Light
2. Settlers Rock
3. Greenway Trails
4. Mansion Beach
5. Andy’s Way
6. Town Beach
7. Montauk Ferry Dock
8. Charlestown Beach
9. Police Station
10. Rodman’s Hollow
11. Smiln’ Through
12. Isaac’s Corner
13. Black Rock
14. Mohegan Bluffs
15. Southeast Lighthouse
16. Medical Center
17. Island Free Library
18. Pt. Judith and New London Ferry Docks
19. Visitor Center
20. Statue of Rebecca
21. Abrams’ Animal Farm
22. U.S. Post Office
23. B.I. Historical Society
18
wn Ro
1
Old To
19
n’s
ldo
Chapel Street
We
2
22
Str
ee
Hig
h
21
St.
Spring
t
y
Wa
20
3
4
5
Corn
Neck
Road
8
New
Harbor
7
6
Be
a
oa
Block Island
State Airport
Ave.
16
S p r in
12
Drive
25-30
ea
n
Lakeside
10
Number
of miles of
walking trails
Oc
d
11
Cooneymus Road
c
ve.
hA
g Street
Center R
W e st
9
Si de R oa d
rail
an T
eg
Moh
15
14
13
Island Inns
The Inn At Block Island
The Barrington Inn
The Jane Marie Cottage
877-324-4667
401-466-5524
[email protected]
www.theinnatblockisland.com
Innkeepers:
Caren and John Kempf
Block Island Reservations
Located in the lobby of the Harborside Inn, directly across from the Old Harbor Ferry
One stop shopping for lodging on Block Island!
(800) 825-6254
www.blockislandreservations.com
Enjoy unparalleled beauty and endless
activities for your Island getaway.
Visit BlockIslandReservations.com for all your accommodation
needs including hotel rooms in historic Old Harbor, suites,
cottages & apartments. We offer packages with 2 nights
lodging, bikes or mopeds, dining & ferry starting at $359 for
two guests midweek. Browse our website for details and
other great deals!
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Close To Home, A World Away

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