View of the Noctorum Ridge from the M53 `The houses are
Transcription
View of the Noctorum Ridge from the M53 `The houses are
View of the Noctorum Ridge from the M53 Mere Hall Middlewood Rathmoor ‘The houses are recognisable. Never simple, they delight in variety and elaboration, with rambling plans, variegated window shapes picturesque silhouettes, and complex moulded brick and terracotta details. Most are dominated by brick chimneys of exaggerated height, in ornamental brickwork.’ CONTENTS 1.0 Noctorum Ridge - Origins and Development 1.1 1.2 2.0 Birkenhead Boom Town Noctorun Boom Time Architecture and Architects 2.1 Victorian and Edwardian Residences 2.2 Post 1910 2.3 Late 20th Century 2.4 Early Residences Lost to Demolition 3.0 Trees and Landscape 3.1 Wirral Ladies Golf Club 3.2 Lanes and Roads 3.3 Sandstone Walls abound in the area 3.4 Sandstone Wall Mapping of the area. 4.0 Negative Aspects in the area. 5.0 Suggested Boundary of Conservation area 2 1.0 Noctorum Ridge - Origins and Development The Noctorum Ridge, on which the proposed conservation area is situated, is a heavily wooded sandstone ridge running North – South ,dominating the flat heartland of Birkenhead to the East and the flat farm land and villages of Wirral to the West. It lies approximately 2.5 miles to the West of central Birkenhead. The proposed Conservation area is roughly bounded by Bidston Road to the East, Upton Road to the North, Weathersfield Road/Noctorum Road to the West and extends to Mere Hall in the South and incorporates the Wirral Ladies Golf Club. The Domesday Survey records Noctorum as a manor called ‘Chenotrie’. Sometime later it was given to the monks of St Werburgh under the name ‘Knocktirum ‘, who held it until the Dissolution when it was appropriated to the new diocese of Chester. In the early 1800 s it passed in to private hands, where it lay undisturbed until the growth of Birkenhead. 1.1 Birkenhead – Victorian Boom Town The 1801 census showed Birkenhead to have a population of a mere 110. In 1815 the advent of small paddle steam boats as ferries on the Mersey sparked the expansion of Birkenhead. Cross river travel was no longer totally dependent on the weather. In 1824 William Laird came to Birkenhead to start his ship building business that was to make Birkenhead famous throughout the world The growth of Birkenhead had now begun. The population in 1821 was 200, by 1831 it was 2,569. Hamilton Square, one of the finest squares in the country, built by William Laird and named after his mother, was opened in 1833. The first Town Hall and market hall was opened in Hamilton Street in 1835. Wirral's first railway was built in 1840, planned by George Stephenson and connected Birkenhead with Chester. This encouraged the growth of Wirral; Birkenhead and Wallasey grew into large towns. 3 In 1843, 123 acres of land was bought for the most ambitious project of all, the formation of Birkenhead Park, the first municipal park in the world. The most famous landscape gardener of the time, Sir Joseph Paxton, was engaged to plan the park, which opened in 1847. In 1841 the population had tripled to 8,223, by 1846 it had increased to 40,000. Birkenhead was being hailed ‘The City of the future’ and it seemed that nothing could halt its progress. One year later the dock scheme failed, there was a disastrous slump and people left Birkenhead in thousands. The future of Birkenhead now lay in the hands of four men, William Laird George Rae, Maurice Mocatta and William Hind. Indeed it was only through the generosity of William Hind and his brother that the Commissioners were able to meet the claims of the bondholders, save the ferry and retrieve their position. The next census taken in 1851 still showed a considerable population increase since 1841 and stood at 24,285. Horse-drawn omnibuses operated in the 1840s and 1850s, including services to meet the Woodside ferries from both the Talbot Hotel and the Queen’s Arms on the Noctorum ridge. Horse-drawn trams operated from 1861 – the first in Europe– the stables situated at the top of Palm Grove. The Mersey railway led to increased development after 1886, when pioneering Victorian engineers were the first in the world to successfully to tunnel a railway beneath a major river. A steam train service through the Mersey Tunnel became available in 1886, being electrified in 1903. Electric trams replaced the earlier form in 1901, continuing until 1937. Motor buses were introduced in 1919. The 1860’s proved to be the start of a renewal of Birkenhead’s fortune. Leading to expansion of the town which became a borough in 1877, so that by 1901 the population had risen to 110,915. 1.2 Noctorum … Boom Time With the growth of both Liverpool and Birkenhead fuelled by the Industrial revolution merchants and pioneers flourished. However the centres of both Liverpool and Birkenhead were hives of industrial activity and overwhelmed with mass terrace housing, built to cope with the explosion in population. Thus, with the growth of Liverpool commerce and the introduction of a much improved steam ferry service, it became a practical option for wealthy businessmen to commute from the Wirral. Furthermore, Noctorum’s elevated position afforded a spectacular view of the Wirral and beyond, allowing merchants visual intelligence of incoming shipping and cargoes. As the working-classes moved into Birkenhead, their middle-class counterparts began to colonise the Noctorum Ridge. 4 2.0 Architecture and Architects The prosperous Victorian business men from Liverpool, who settled outside the city in the leafy suburbs of Oxton and Noctorum commissioned the best architects of the day to design their palatial homes. The most eminent was Edmund Kirby who designed Mere Hall, Wethersfield House, Rathmoor and Middlewood. These Victorian and early Edwardian houses which are very large and primarily of red brick with clay roof tiles. They generally have tall chimneys (often decorated). Some have half timbering or plaster work decoration at upper floor levels. Most have some form of moulded-brick ornamentation and stone dressing. Precise of Edmund Kirby Kirby was a Liverpool architect and surveyor who had worked with John Douglas for a while before setting up his own business in the 1860s. Most of the company work was in Liverpool, the north-west of England and north Wales. Kirby’s houses are recognisable. Never simple, they delight in variety and elaboration, with rambling plans, variegated window shapes picturesque silhouettes, and complex moulded brick and terracotta details. Most are dominated by brick chimneys of exaggerated height, in ornamental brickwork. 5 Examples of Kirby’s work seen across the North West * St Joseph’s North Rd, Birkenhead * John the Baptist, Meols * C of E Church at Appleton Thorn, Cheshire. HolyName, Beresford Rd * Sodality Chapel of St Francis Xavier, Liverpool. * Church of the Sacred Heart, Chorley, * All Saints Church, Parbold, John the Baptist, Meols *St Werburghs, Chester. St Joseph’s, North Rd Birkenhead * Our Lady of the Sea, Llandudno. * North and South Wales Bank, Llanwrst. * Venice Chambers, Lord St, Liverpool. Files Offices, Liverpool * Union Offices, Argyle Street, Birkenhead. (now demolished) Redcourt, St Anselm’s College * The Queen Victoria Monument, Hamilton Square, Birkenhead. *Redcourt, now part of St Anselm’s College. * Port Sunlight Village 49-52 Corniche Road 40-50 Primrose Hill Shakespeare Cottages at Poets Corner (now demolished). Queen Victoria Monument, Hamilton Square 6 Gorsefield, Noctorum Lane Now demolished The Edmund Kirby Houses in the proposed Conservation area are fine examples of his design skill Mere hall Mere Hall home of Liverpool lawyer Sir John Gray was built in 1882. Mere Hall is probably the largest mansion to remain and is now protected as a listed building. In Jacobethan style, it is of red brick with clay plain tiled roof and stone and mullioned windows Rear View - Entrance Mere Hall Front View overlooking Wirral to the West, with views of its extensive garden with many mature trees. Front View 7 Wethersfield House - Rathmoor - Middlewood Similar in arrangement to Mere Hall all three properties present their main frontage to the west Wethersfield House with silhouetted Chimneys and associate Wethersfield Lodge View of the Ridge from the M53, with Wethersfield house peeping through the trees. 8 Views of Middlewood from Noctorum Road. Rathmoor from Noctorum Lane with its ornate chimneys. 9 Other large Houses which date from the late 19 th and early 20th century are spread along the Ridge. Delavour in Noctorum Lane Dundoran in Vyner Rd South The Priory, Upton Rd. Windy Knowe, Waterford Rd There are also small buildings from this era scattered along the Ridge Chenotrie Lodge in Noctorum Road is the entrance of the demolished mansion. It is unusual for the area being constructed of stone and slate rather than brick and tile. This may reflect the fact that Chenotrie was an earlier property, appearing on the map of 1872. Bidston Court Lodge, all that is left of Bidston Court which was deconstructed and relocated to Frankby, now named Hillbark. 10 Delevour Lodge in Noctorum Lane Stokesay Lodge at the entrance is all that remains of Stokesay which was demolished. Farm cottage at the junction of Wethersfield and West Road, the remains of what was the Noctorum manor estate demolished about 1900. Ivy and September cottages in Noctorum Lane, Victorian farm cottages. Priory Lodge at the entrance to The Priory in Upton Road. 11 2.1 Post 1910 Properties Axeholme With the demolition of Chenotrie, three properties, Axeholme, Sckirbeck and The Chase were constructed at the Noctorum Lane border. These properties continued the principles established in the area. Although smaller than the Victorian mansions, they are none the less substantial detached properties in spacious plots, now surrounded by mature planting. Sckirbeck The Chase The Chase in secluded mature woodlands. 12 In 1900 Vyner Road South was constructed by the Vyner estate to further develop the land in the area. This lead to a number of large detached houses built on substantial plots of land in the range 0.5 – 2 acres reflecting the earlier grandeur of the Victorian era but on a smaller scale, with their spacious plots and tree planting following the established principles. Forest Hill, Vyner Rd South Greeneves, Noctorum Road Greenacres, St David’s Lane Hamptoune, Vyner Road South Oak Cottage, Noctorum Road St David’s House, St David’s Lane 13 2.2 Late 20 th Century Properties Pevsner and Hubbard (Buildings of England) refer to 20th century properties of note as No 4 Stokesay, off Vyner road South and Ha’pennyfield, Noctorum Lane. No4 Stokesay was designed by Ivan Johnson &Partners and dates from the 1960s Timber-clad, it must have seemed distinctly modern when constructed. Today, its form is less unconventional, but the timber cladding has mellowed and the house now blends into the landscape. Ha’pennyfield dates from 1959-60 and was designed by local architect and academic Quentin Hughes. Again when this was constructed it would have been considered progressive. Today it represents its time, but clearly has design quality. Quentin Hughes is the author of numerous architectural books, including ‘Renaissance Architecture’, ‘Seaport – Architecture and Town Planning in Liverpool and Military Architecture. He was a founder member of the Fortress Study Group, and editor of their Journal ‘Fort’ A fellow of the Royal Institute of British Architects and Fellow of the royal historical Society and Society of Antiquities and received an OBE in 1999.His academic life throughout his University career was spiced with excursions into Architectural practice, notably during the sixties. 14 2.3 Some of the Early Houses Lost to Demolition. Gorsefield Gorsefield, designed by Edmund Kirby, stood at the junction of Noctorum Lane and Budworth Road. All that is left of this era is Gorsefield Cottage, Gorsefield Cottage Ulverscroft, designed by Edmond Kirby stood on Bidston Road near Wexford Road. All that remains today is the name on a sandstone wall. The house being replaced with faceless modern blocks of flats. Ulverscroft Bidston Court, designed by Grayson &Ould, who also designed part of Port Sunlight village, occupied a large plot in Vyner Rd South. This was deconstructed and relocated to Frankby, as Hillbark. Bidston Court 1894 Bidston Court Gardens Ramle, designed for G R Glover by Edmund Kirby lay in Manor Hill. A house was also built in Wexford Road for Mr Brown – both now demolished Ramle House for Mr Brown 15 3.0 Trees and Landscape One of the most prominent features of the area is its dominating tree cover and mature tree planting. Although new development has occurred over the last 40 years, the greenery of the area is still a prime characteristic. The distinctive features of Noctorum remain to this day with its position on high ground, the mix of architectural style, the generous tree cover, the high random rubble sandstone walls with continuity of colour and texture, and its several unmetalled roads and narrow lanes. 3.1 Wirral Ladies Golf Club At the centre of the proposed Conservation area lies the Wirral Ladies Golf Club. The Club was instituted in February 1894. In the years before the end of the nineteenth century golf was becoming a very popular pastime, with clubs being established all over the country. There was no prospect of ladies being permitted to membership in the foreseeable future. The wives and family of members of the Royal Liverpool Golf Club at Hoylake pressurised their men folk and land was leased on the Noctorum Ridge to form a nine hole course for ladies. This was extended in 1907 to 18 holes and the land subsequently purchased outright from the earl of Shrewsbury in 1927 thus securing the future of the Club The club forms an extensive green heart to the Conservation area and is readily accessible via public footpaths . The extensive gardens of Bidston Court are open to the public with their mature trees and shrubbery contributing positively to the landscape and historic interest of the area. 16 3.2 The Lanes and Roads in the area abound with mature trees. Vyner Road South St David’s Lane View of the Ridge from Woodchurch View of the Ridge from Prenton 3.3 Sand stone wall abound in the area 17 Noctorum Lane 3.4 Map of Sandstone Walls in and around the Conservation Area 18 4.0 Negative Aspects Study of the historic maps indicates that the original layout of the are was much more spacious. This important quality of the area has been somewhat eroded by sub-division of plots and pockets of development such as Vyner Close and Inveresk Court flats. Nevertheless, the Greenery of the area is still a prime characteristic. Inveresk Court Vyner Close, off Vyner Rd South Establishment of a Conservation area would help control such negative development and preserve the heritage of the Ridge. Appended is a Map of the Suggested Boundary of the Conservation Area 19 5.0 Suggested Conservation Area Boundary 20