the wide world of - Hawaii Beverage Guide

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Light, dark, flavored, spiced,
rum has many ways to please
By Warren Bobrow
R
um has a dark, often
tempestuous history. Before there was a United
States there was rum. Rum
was used as a currency in the
means of international trade.
The distillation of rum and the
transportation of its base raw
materials fueled countries’
coffers and their revolutions.
The dark side of rum was the
slave trade; rum slaked the
thirst of sailors, presidents,
kings and even the slaves who cut the cane.
Rum was and still is a liquor of historic proportions. Beer has a long history of being brewed but would sour on
long sea journeys. Wine was spoiled by
heat and humidity when transported to
the New World. Rum could be stored
for decades without fail, carrying this
spirit into the modern age.
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Suddenly and with fervor, 21st-century
rum is being perceived as serious of a spirit
as bourbon and Scotch. You don’t have to
cover up rum with cola any longer. Rum
is a flavor-driven beverage. Now, with the
explosion of flavored rums, it has a very
important place behind the bar—for all
seasons, not just summer.
flavors, Barrels & Blending
Bacardi, the venerable brand from Puerto Rico, remains a category flag-waver,
making vast quantities of rum available
to an emerging, thirsty market. As an
ingredient, Bacardi is indispensible in
flavor-driven, modern versions of cocktailian pleasures such as the Mojito
and the timeless Cuba Libre (Rum and
Coke). As a bellwether of rum overall, it is useful to note that Bacardi has
pioneered flavored rums as well. With
OakHeart Spiced Rum plus flavors such
as Limón, Peach Red, Black Razz, O (orange), Big Apple, Melon (watermelon),
Cóco (coconut), Wolf Berry (blueberry)
and Dragon Berry (strawberry, infused
with the trendy dragon fruit), Bacardi
has the range to sustain any mixologist’s
dreams far beyond the typical. Bacardi
also makes miniscule quantities of their
seriously delicious 1873 Solera Rum.
One key to rum’s modern renaissance
is found in the barrels. Rum casks from the
production of bourbon have transformed
the former “kill-devil” to a drink of great
elegance. There are very specific rules pertaining to the use of bourbon oak; casks
can only be used once to age bourbon and
are then sold to rum distilleries.
Abuelo from Panama is one producer
that has excelled in using ex-bourbon
barrels. Ron Abuelo Anejo Reserva Especial and Ron Abuelo 7 Años Reserva
Superior both “play well with others” in
cocktails. The “only in a snifter without
ice” Ron Abuelo 12 Años Gran Reserva,
is as elegant as the finest whisky from
Scotland or Kentucky.
Opposite: Appleton Estate’s The Communal Rum Punch /
Clockwise top: Bacardi’s Mojitos,
Denizen’s Herengracht Negroni,
Captain Morgan’s Mojito Redux
Venerable brands like
Ron Barceló from the Dominican Republic utilize
both new oak and bourbonoak for aging. These rums
are expertly blended to give
a creamy, tight mouthfeel
and a lengthy finish.
Blending is another means to a finer
end product for rum distillers. Denizen
Rum is a carefully blended combination
of 15 pot-still distilled rums in three distinctive styles from Jamaica and Trinidad. These exotic individual rums are
then blended in Amsterdam. Denizen is
brightly flavored and glows in the glass
with tropical aromatics.
have disappeared, giving consumers another quality choice
for authentically produced Caribbean rum.
For historical authenticity,
look no further than the Jamaican brand of Appleton Estate,
handcrafting distinctive rums
since 1749. Magnificent in a snifter with
a splash of coconut water or in a punch,
Appleton Estate is Jamaican rum personified. Distilled from local sugar cane, then
aged in ex-bourbon casks, Appleton Estate
Rum is boldly flavored in a most modern
style, rich with caramelized sugar notes.
Malibu is continuing their profitable
trend of flavoring rums with tropical fruits
RUM NUMBERS: Overall rum volume in the
U.S. market rose almost 1% in 2011, but the real
story was upscale rum; high-end volume grew
32% in 2011, and super-premium was up 50+%.
Source: DISCUS
The distinctive Pyrat Rum is a blend of
nine different Caribbean rums, aged for 15
years in a mix of French Limousin oak and
toasted American oak. Pyrat is lovely in the
mouth, creamy and pure at the same time.
The squat bottle is reminiscent of early
bottles that swashbucklers and sailors alike
stowed away below deck of their vessels to
make the journey somewhat more bearable.
Pyrat was initially released a few decades
ago but it was nearly unavailable outside of
the Caribbean due to the extremely small
production. Now with the acquisition by
a new parent company, Patrón, shortages
like mango, coconut and citrus. The most
recent offering, Malibu Black, is a bit less
sweet and a bit higher in alcohol, for a
drier-finishing rum. It mixes well with
other spirits.
Spiced Rum: Gimmick or Trend?
The distillers of Captain Morgan, long
known for their 80 proof spiced version,
are adapting to consumer demand for
strength along with edgey flavor. Captain
Morgan Black rolls in at 100 proof, powerfully laced with a proprietary blend of
Caribbean spices evocative of the islands.
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admiral nelson
Virgin Islands
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rums
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What accounts most for stylistic
differences between rum from
Jamaica, Puerto Rico, etc.?
Jamaican rum is fat, thick, full-
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How are flavored rums made?
Flavored rum is made with
flavoring agents—sometimes
natural but often artificial, for
cost-efficiency, not unlike the bulk
of flavored vodkas.
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How/when in the production
process do they add spice to
create spiced rums?
The spices (typically baking spices
such as cinnamon, vanilla and/or
ginger) go in at the end—unless
it is a very expensive spiced rum,
then they go in at the beginning of
aging. Siesta Key is one producer
doing it the old-fashioned way.
RUM
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How does dark rum get its color?
True, dark rum can achieve its color
from the cask, through oxidation,
but in this day and age where
cask aging costs more money, it
is often from added caramel or
other coloring agents. Gold, or
amber, rums—stylistically midway
between light and dark rums—gain
their color via barrel aging.
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rum FAQs
bodied and oily on the tongue.
Puerto Rican Rum is more akin
to vodka in mouthfeel; it is mostly
clear and tends to have less rum
flavor. Barbados rum is Englishstyled, fermented from cane juice;
rich and almost sappy in the
mouth. Rum from Martinique is
crisp, aromatic and very refreshing; the flavor of the cane is in the
forefront of the mouth. Rums from
Panama tend to be thicker and
richer than rums from Guadeloupe
or Martinique. Burnt sugar and
ex-bourbon barrels give Panamanian rums signature aromatics
of white flowers, toasted oak,
vanilla and treacle syrup. Rums
from the French islands tend to
be cane-sugar-forward; their oak
is usually from France, previously
used for aging Cognac. Central
American rums use predominantly
ex-bourbon oak in their aging
process. American rum from the
U.S. Virgin Islands tends to be
industrial; sugar beets are utilized
(in addition to molasses) as a base
material because these ingredients
are less expensive than freshly cut
cane. Making rum from sugar cane
is a time-consuming and laborintensive process, but as is so often
the case with fine spirits, the final
product is stylistically distinct, and
to aficionados such rum is worthy
of a higher tab.
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Captain Morgan is extremely mixable in many Tiki-bar-style
concoctions. It is also is absolutely sublime in hot buttered
rum or as a lively aperitif with fresh lime juice and seltzer.
Sailor Jerry, distilled in St. Croix, is a 92 proof spiced
rum that plays well in mixed drinks or alone on the rocks
in a tall glass. It is most recognizable for the sour cherry, savory cinnamon and freshly scraped nutmeg flavors that are
woven through this very recognizable brand. Sailor Jerry
is not overly sweet and is quite refreshing, especially with
seltzer and lime.
Blackheart, from Heaven Hill in Kentucky, is a distinctive spiced rum that rolls in at a palate-warming 93 proof.
The warmth of this spirit is offset by the creamy elegance
of careful blending. Blackheart is laced with sweet vanilla
that meets nutmeg, cardamom, cinnamon and hot chilies.
Marvelous mixed with coconut-water ice, a splash of simple
syrup and a hit of fresh lime juice, the Blackheart will shake
up the preconceived notion that spiced rum only means
candy-sweet concoctions.
Admiral Nelson, also from Heaven Hill, is known
for a massive 101 proof spiced rum as well as creamier,
thicker 70 proof offerings. Both are wonderful in a classic
hot toddy, hot buttered rum, a lively piña colada or even
a spiced rum and tonic.
Domestic producer Siesta Key in Sarasota, FL, makes a
small-batch spiced rum that speaks clearly of the quality of
the local Florida-grown sugar cane. Flavors of vanilla, nutmeg and allspice evoke a very tropical feel with the backbone of handcrafted rum.
Rum parade
Rum is only getting more popular as time goes on, in
all varieties and formats, from a simple molasses-based
spiced quaff to sophisticated sugar-cane spirits as serious
as the world’s finest digestifs. Here is a roundup of other
rums of distinction on the U.S. market: se le cti o n
appleton estate
Jamaica
bacardi oakheart
Puerto Rico
Banks
Caribbean
blackheart
Puerto Rico
Blackwell
Jamaica
brinley gold shipwreck
St. Kitts
Brugal
Dominican Republic
caliche
Puerto Rico
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RUM
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Brugal makes both light and dark rum,
both of which are easily mixable. Extremely popular and flavor-driven.
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Cockspur 12 Bajan Crafted Rum is as
serious as Scotch. Barbados used to be
the world leader for sugar cane. Now
the cane fields have sprouted mansions, but Cockspur still farms their
own cane.
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Cruzan is the rum from the Virgin Islands; you’ll find it on every backbar in
the islands. It is made from cane molasses and yields a bold flavor; their white
rum is the most popular version.
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Don Q is a huge player; they make dark
and flavored rums, both very mixable.
Ideal for a rum punch or a planter’s
punch.
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Kraken delivers an irresistible blend of
spice flavors and vanilla overtones, plus
brilliant marketing and a hip bottle; it
mixes well and has a bit more alcohol
than many of the others.
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Martí Mojito Rum, pre-blended with
lime and mint, is popular with the
21- to 30-year-old set, on the rocks or
blended with fruit juice.
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Ron Matusalem is produced in the
time-consuming solera method, like
Sherry, whereby barrels used to draw
rum for bottling are replenished with
rum from younger barrels. Old-fashioned and extremely flavorful. Another
solera rum of note is the 1796 bottling
of Santa Teresa, made in Venezuela.
rums
captain morgan black
Caribbean
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Vizcaya is Cuban-styled; a cigar rum if
you will. Excellent mixed into a mojito
or enjoyed in a snifter, this rum is rich,
thick and flavor-driven. 
Caribaya, from the Virgin Islands, is
best known for their coconut rum.
Caribaya is the staple of every sailboat’s
galley in the islands. Fabulous with cola
in a Coconut Cuba Libre. 
Brinley Gold Shipwreck Rum is made
in St. Kitts from molasses then aged in
ex-bourbon oak for four years. Infused
with local spices, this is a most authentic and delicious version of spiced rum.
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Blackwell Rum is a class act. Classic
Jamaican rum nose of charred wood,
creamy oak and vanilla notes. Esoteric
and rare, it is fabulous by itself in a glass
with coconut-water ice.
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Dzama, in Madagascar, distills a broad
range of rums from aged to spiced. Very
full-bodied and friendly in cocktails
that use tropical fruits; powerful in
the glass as exotic aromas of pie spices
combine with deeper notes of candy
sugar syrup. 
Original Bartenders Coconut Rum is
an easy-to-use flavored rum; extremely
versatile in tropical concoctions.
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Rum Jumbie is a sugar-cane-based
infused rum from the Caribbean. Offering robust flavors such as coconut,
Rum Jumbie makes the work of being
a bartender even easier, with authentic
aromatics and character.
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Banks Rum is a very sophisticated
blended rum that hails from several
different Caribbean nations. Banks
White Rum is built with several different rums, each with its own distinctive character; the final result resonates
with the exotic aromatics.
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Flor de Cana, from Nicaragua, is a
gorgeous mouthful of pure and natural ingredients, including singleestate sugar cane. They use un-airconditioned rick-houses to patiently
age their consistently aromatic and
carefully crafted rums.
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Dominican Club—featuring Silver,
Gold and Añejo expressions—is making a strong bid to raise the profile of
rum from the Dominican Republic.
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Caliche Rum, from Puerto Rico, is
made in the old style, meaning this is a
rum with great flavor. Crystal-clear but
full-bodied and almost creamy on the
palate, Caliche is able to stand alone
or mix well.
Cachaça: Now Official
April 9, 2012, was a landmark date for
spirits: In an accord signed by U.S. trade
representatives, the U.S. pledged to recognize Cachaça as a distinctive Brazilian product. No longer will Cachaça be
termed “Brazilian rum.” While similar to
other sugar-based distillieries, it is now
recognized as a product that has its own
distinctive terroir and provenance.
se le cti o n
caribaya
Virgin Islands
cockspur
Barbados
cruzan 9
Virgin Islands
denizen
Jamaica / Trinidad
Dominican Club
Dominican Republic
dzama
Madagascar
flor de cana
Nicaragua
jumbie
Caribbean
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kraken
Caribbean
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rums
elements other than ethanol and
methyl at the end of the aging
period. This minimum concentration accounts for the cask-aged
Rhum Agricole’s bouquet.
Rhum Martinique “Vieux”
(extra-aged rum): Rum that has
been aged in oak casks within the
production area and for at least
three uninterrupted years. Capacity
of barrels must be under 650
liters. The rum must also contain
at least 325 grams per 100 liter of
pure alcohol of volatile elements
other than ethanol and methyl at
the end of the three years. This
minimum concentration, higher
than the one imposed to caskaged rum, guarantees an even
richer bouquet for the extra-aged
Rhum Agricole.
Whatever category the rum
may be, no rum with the designation of origin “Martinique”
can be sold with an alcoholic
concentration lower than 40%.
Rhum J.M is a gorgeous
example. Esoteric and highly aromatic, with notes of white flowers
and citrus peel, J.M is still handmade with freshly crushed cane
from their estate on Martinique.
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Rhum Martinique “Élevé
Sous Bois” (cask-aged rum):
Rum that has been aged in oak
barrels within the production area
and for at least 12 uninterrupted
months. The rum must also contain at least 250 grams per 100
liter of pure alcohol of volatile
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Rhum “Blanc” Martinique
(white rum): colorless rum
which has been laid still
for at least three months
and not more than three
months if it has been aged
in oak barrels.
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Rum from Martinique, made from
freshly cut sugar cane, is known
as Rhum Agricole. Martinique has
now earned an official appellation
status, similar to the AOC regions
for growing and fermenting grapes
in France. By law, spirits carrying
one of the following designations
to be called Rhum Agricole:
RUM
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Rhum Agricole
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Rhum J.M. plantation in the
Martinique town of Macouba
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Culturally, Cachaça is more than just a panacea of the
underclass; Cachaça is the national drink of Brazil. It is also
part of the national identity. The Caipirinha is Brazil’s national cocktail, made with Cachaça, sugar (preferably raw cane
sugar) and freshly cut limes.
Protecting the name Cachaça is very important to the cultural preservation of the uniquely Brazilian method of distillation. During production of Cachaça the distiller is allowed to
add sugar to the blend, forcing up the alcohol levels. If more than
six grams of sugar are used, the end result must be labeled Sweet
Cachaça by law. Cachaça is traditionally aged in a diverse array
of wood, such as traditional oak, but also in woods found only
in Brazil. These include umburana, ipê, cedar, balsam,
jatobá, freijó and jequitibá. Different varieties of native
wood impart different unique and indigenous flavors.
Cachaça runs the gamut from high-power, firedriven moonshine to highly elegant and cherished
spirits, not unlike the finest Cognac or Scotch whisky.
At present, the U.S. market has a limited selection,
but Leblon Cachaça (SRP $30) is available in all 50
states. Leblon’s master distiller, Gilles Merlet, uses
techniques from his native France, including alembic batch-distillation and aging in Cognac casks. A
new expression, Maison Leblon Reserva Especial, is
reaching the U.S. in August.
Higher-end Cachaças have been slow to hit the market.
Sao Cachaça is one of a growing number of Eco-Cert (Certified
Organic) Cachaça brands in Brazil. Rich in the mouth with
sharp notes of bitter chocolate and citrus rind, this Cachaça
speaks clearly of the quality of the ingredients. Avuá Cachaça
is the only brand of the liquor made by a woman in Brazil; she
does two expressions using indigenous Brazilian wood.
As a market sign of how hot Cachaça is expected to become, Diageo has recently purchased the Ypioca brand from
Brazil for $453 million. ■
se le cti o n
malibu black
Caribbean
marti
West Indies
pyrat
Caribbean
ron abuelo
Panama
ron barcelo
Dominican Republic
Ron matusalem
Dominican Republic
sailor Jerry
St. Croix
vizcaya
Dominican Republic