BEACHES - Incredible India

G
oa, a destination known
for its craziness, is one of
the first few places chalked
as an option when young
friends plan for a vacation or
when the newlyweds think
about their honeymoons. It is also one of the
favourites among people seeking adventure.
Located on the western coast along the
Arabian Sea, Goa offers numerous options
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November-December INDIA & YOU
to travellers of varied interests. While on
the one hand north Goa is a popular choice
among people looking for beach merriment,
south Goa is more reclusive. North Goa
gives a chance to meet people from around
the world on seashores or at coastal shacks
and get indulged into Goan food and fenny,
a popular alcoholic beverage in Goa. Away
from the coast, the North Goa boasts of its
rich history through numerous Portuguese
churches, such as church of St. Francis of
Assisi, that is held significant for the state’s
classic architecture.
South Goa, on the other hand, eludes
one into nature and the secluded beaches.
Southwards and approximately 35 kilometers
away from its northern counterpart, it unfolds
with NH 66 highway that runs parallel to the
Western Ghat mountain range. A ride on a two
wheeler, available everywhere on rent, does
F O R CO U NTR Y SI D E AND Q U IET
BEAC HES
AWAy FrOM THe FreNzy OF NOrTH GOA, SOuTH GOA OFFerS A MuCH PeACeFuL
eNVIrON. ITS bACkWATerS, PADDy FIeLDS AND CLeAN AND SeCLuDeD beACHeS ATTrACT
THe VISITOrS LOOkING FOr MOre reLAxeD, PrIVATe Or SOLITAry VACATIONS.
by Shweta Keshri
best justice to the beautiful trail. A Google
navigator may come very handy to locate any
place for the intervals when one finds oneself
completely away from human civilisation.
A ride through the countryside
One of the two districts of Goa, South
Goa, stretches from Mormugao and Vasco Da
Gama to the tiny and secluded beach of Polem.
A number of beaches dot this stretch. Some of
the known beaches consist of Colva, Agonda
and Palolem. Colva beach that is located 68
kilometres from Dabolim, the airport in Goa,
marks the beginning of significant beaches in
South Goa. It is a broad and beautiful beach, and
has a stream coursing through it. It is the oldest
and largest of South Goa’s resorts. Its remote
‘Vaddos’, or wards are covered with colonial
style villas and rickety fishing huts. Fishermen’s
motor trawlers lie anchored in a line offshore.
Tourists in colorful dresses throng about and
several of them can be seen sunbathing in
the sun. Colva is popular among the young
backpackers and offers options for pleasant
and convenient stay with its budget hotels and
villas. Swimming is relatively safe while the
sand, away from the beachfront, is spotless and
scattered with interesting shells. Although never
an established rave venue, Colva’s nightlife is
livelier than anywhere else in South Goa.
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DeSTINATION
Goa’s backwaters and hinterland are
stunning, historical, authentic and still
completely unchanged
As one goes further towards the south,
the beaches get more secluded and the path
becomes more remote and serene. The 43
kilometre distance between the Colva and
Agonda beach offers a good chance to get
acquainted with the countryside of this part of
Goa. Colourful Goan houses standout amidst
the green surrounding. Shaped in response
to the fecund tropical conditions and long
years of colonial rule, Goan architecture is
enriched by the european experience, yet
deeply rooted in local culture. In the houses
that run along the path, one may observe
syncretic architecture displaying a blend
of pre-existing Hindu-Maratha motifs with
european styles introduced by the colonising
Portuguese in the 16th century. before their
arrival, most houses were made of mud with
thatched roofs. The homes looked inwards
towards a courtyard and had small windows.
With the conquest of Goa by the Portuguese
in 1510, the scenes changed dramatically. The
newly converted Christians were encouraged
to adapt to european lifestyle, also reflected
in their architecture. The newly built houses
looked out into the streets, had covered
porches, large windows and were decorated
with architectural ornaments. However, they
did not cut off their Indian roots completely,
and incorporated many features, leading to a
unique Goan-Portuguese style of architecture.
It is said that during the Portuguese rule,
owners could be fined if their houses were not
painted. So paint they did! bright and dramatic
colours such as lilac-blues, sunflower-yellows
or ruby-reds were the popular choice. As
white was associated with purity and used
only in churches, no one used it to colour
their homes.
The vibrant houses soon appear scantily
and are replaced with more modest rural
houses with thatched roofs. Several backwaters are also sighted occasionally along
the way with boats floating on them, waiting
for the fishermen. Goa’s back waters and
hinterland are stunning, historical, authentic
and still completely unchanged, where they
haven’t been desecrated by mining. Like
much of Goa, they look incredible during the
monsoon. Long paddy fields surrounded by
the Western Ghats make the ride peaceful and
relaxing. On the route, 18 kilometres from
Palolem beach, comes a fort Cabo da rama,
named after the Lord ram of the Hindu epic
ramayana. It is believed that in the age of the
ramayana, Lord rama and his wife Sita took
shelter inside this fort during their 14 year
exile from Ayodhya. The fort has exchanged
hands between Hindu and Muslim rulers
before being lost to the Portuguese reign in
1763. It was abandoned when the Portuguese
left this place and later housed a government
prison till 1955. The present rickety structure
with turrets and rusty cannons are the
leftovers of the Portuguese. The Portuguese
equipped it with 21 guns and military barracks,
as well as commandant quarters and a chapel.
Most of the fort area today is covered in
trees, much like the surrounding landscape.
The western side of the fort commands a
striking view of the Arabian Sea. This view
gives an idea of the fortress like design of the
fort. The isolated beaches seen from here
draw the travellers towards them.
Another 18 kilometres ride away and
amidst a quiet village is the Agonda beach,
a nice three kilometre long pristine stretch.
It is a good spot for sunbathing, relaxing
and swimming, with relatively few tourists.
Although the waters here are not ideal place
for swimming, Agonda is a paradise for those
who look for short escapes. The fact that it
is hawker free and the fact that most mobile
connections do not work here allow people
the solitude they look for. It is also a nesting
site for the endangered ridley turtle “that
further requires people to be careful about
not causing any disturbance”. The beach has
one long road parallel to the beach line, most
rooms and bungalows for rent are located
either between them or on the opposite side
of the road. Surrounded by the mountains and
with its solitary location, Agonda encapsulates
the romantic Goa at its very best.
Palolem beach, located at a distance of
10 kilometres and just 10 minute ride away,
acts as a party getaway for people who wish
a change from the isolation of Agonda. It is
a natural bay surrounded by lofty headlands
on either side. This results in a calm, idyllic
sea with a gently sloping bed that allows one
to walk up to 100 metre out from the beach.
The long beach that is now entirely filled with
rooms, huts and restaurants, sometimes with
live music, is no longer a reclusive beach.
However, it offers short distance ferry/boat
rides to smaller and secluded beaches such
as the butterfly beach and the honeymoon
beach. butterfly beach is accessible by foot as
well in case of low tides. These beaches allow
people to enjoy privately. The sea at Palolem
is usually shallow and swimmable, and one
can sometimes spot dolphins cavorting in the
bay. A boat trip to see dolphins, especially at
sunrise or sunset, can also be taken. Scuba
diving, canyoning and trekking tours and
self-paddle sea kayaks are some of the water
sports available for the visitor’s amusement.
Despite the development that has seen an
unbroken string of beach shacks and huts
spring forth from one end to the other,
Palolem remains an enjoyable beach. n
From traveller’s diary
Centre for Art, Culture & environment,
located at Loutolim, 9 kms from Margao, is an
aesthetically developed open air site designed
to illustrate Goa’s traditional past.
Martin’s Corner, a restaurant at betalbatim
in South Goa is popular for its food and bands
that perform live there. One must try the
bebinca, a 7 layered pudding made out of egg
yolk.
A day trip to Dudhsagar Falls which are in
the top 100 highest falls in the world is a must,
especially for those interested in trekking and
hiking.
Goa
Capital
Key Cities
Pernem
Panaji
Valpoi
Ponda
Quepem
Chaudi
How to reach
By Flight: The Dabolim airport at Goa is well
connected with all the metro cities.
By Rail: The two major railheads in Goa are
Madgaon and Thivim, which are well connected
by trains from all over the country.
By Road: Goa is well connected to metropolitan
cities by road
Where to stay
Goa offers a wide range of options for tourists of
all budgets.
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