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Lady Elliot Island, Australia
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www.ja-universe.com
Text by Jeremy Cuff
Photographs by Jeremy & Amanda Cuff
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Lady Elliot Island is a tiny
speck of an island, appearing
like a lone lily pad on a
giant pond
Lady Elliot Island is a tiny speck
of land that marks the southernmost point of Australia’s Great
Barrier Reef. The island has a
surprisingly varied and turbulent
history leading up to its current
status as an “eco resort” which
includes guano mining. We thought
it was fantastic, with great
diving, lots of birds, nesting
turtles, hatching turtles and
simple living. In fact, we can’t
say enough good things about it…
Lady Elliot Island is a tiny speck of an island,
appearing like a lone lily pad on a giant
pond. It’s located at the very southern tip of
the Great Barrier Reef and is geographically
isolated, 80 kilometres north east of
Bundaberg and some 40 kilometres south east
of the Bunker Group, a cluster of reefs, cays
and islands.
The only easy way to get there is by light
aircraft, usually from the aussie rum capital
of Bundaberg, the Gold Coast or Hervey Bay.
It’s also possible from other locations such as
Brisbane, Maroochydore, Town of 1770 and
Gladstone if booking numbers are sufficient.
As you approach the island by air, you get
a heightened sense of adventure, circling
around the island to view the reefs before
bouncing onto the grassy runway, scattering
seabirds in all directions.
There are many reports about the Great
Barrier Reef being “wrecked” or bleached,
which may well be true in some areas, but
not here. During our research for the trip,
the island looked so appealing with its “ecoresort” status that we were concerned that
it could only be disappointing in reality, but
we needn’t have worried. Lady Elliot Island
surpassed our expectations in terms of the
whole experience - excellent diving, nesting
turtles, hatching turtles, teeming birdlife
combined with simple, back to nature living.
The expression “world class” is overused these

days, but for us, it was certainly apt. It had
that indefinable “wow factor”.
Whilst on the island, we learned of the recent
comments of a visiting scientist, whose role
is to monitor the status of the entire Great
Barrier Reef ecosystem. Her conclusion was
that the reef around Lady Elliot is extremely
healthy. Even to a casual observer, the whole
ecosystem appears to be intact and pristine.

In three days of diving we logged manta rays,
eagle rays, shovelnose rays, bull rays, reef
sharks, leopard sharks, batfish, schooling jacks
and barracuda, and a lot of turtles. The coral
was in great condition, too, with the plate
corals being particularly impressive. We didn’t

Excellent diving, nesting turtles,
hatching turtles, teeming birdlife
The only easy way to
get there is by light
aircraft, usually from
the aussie rum capital of
Bundaberg, the Gold Coast
or Hervey Bay

see any dolphins during our stay but they are
regular visitors, and there’s also the seasonal
spectacle of migrating humpback whales.
There’s no jetty on the island, so the dive boat
is launched from the beach, on the sheltered
leeward side of the island, close to the
lighthouse. Depending on the tide, divers may
have to navigate a walk over a designated
area of reef flat with tanks and weights in
order to get aboard. Anyway, it’s not too
difficult and there’s always help from the crew
if you’re unsteady.
Despite the relaxed, back to nature vibe of
the island, the diving is operated to a strict
timetable, as the dive team also have to lead
snorkeling groups between dives. During our
visit, the choice of dive sites was limited by a
stiff breeze making the seas on the windward
side of the island too difficult for the dive
boat, but it really didn’t matter.

the reefS around
Lady Elliot ARE
extremely
healthy.
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g we
of divin
s
y
a
d
ys,
In three
eagle ra
,
s
y
a
r
f
anta
ays, ree
r
logged m
ll
u
b
se rays,
batfish,
,
s
k
r
shovelno
a
h
s
a,
leopard
barracud
d
sharks,
n
a
s
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s.
schoolin
of turtle
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o
l
a
and
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the blue. On our last day, we marvelled at
another similar encounter, again at Lighthouse
Bommies.
Since our visit, I checked Lady Elliot website
to find the island has since been “invaded” by
mantas, with more than 100 individuals being
identified! The “normal” population has been
estimated at about 40 individuals.
Eagle rays are also regularly sighted at Lady
Elliot Island. I didn’t have any close encounters
with these stunning rays unless you count one
specimen that glided to within a few feet of
me. I had my back to it whilst watching a bull
ray!
Bull rays, a large species of stingray, are
commonly encountered on the sandy
expanses, and sometimes you might be lucky
to see the uncommon and more skittish
shovelnose ray which we only observed from
a distance.
On the leeward side there’s also plenty to
keep divers happy, with the underwater
topography consisting of reef flat, a sloping
reef, and bommies interspersed with sandy
expanses.
Some of the bommies can harbour some big
surprises. At Three Pyramids we spotted part
of the body of a moray eel that had hidden
itself within the labyrinth of the rock and
coral. It was like we’d seen an anaconda
– this eel was huge!
Batfish are common at Lady Elliot and are
often “friendly”, or at least curious of divers,
accompanying us along the reef on several
of the dives, as if escorting us from bommie
to bommie. Quite often they would latch
onto a particular diver which caused some
amusement among the dive group.
“Close buzzes” with the big stuff are certainly
possible but not guaranteed, although you’re
likely to have several good encounters over a
few days of diving. Our first manta sighting
was from a distance, at the Spiders Ledge
site. As we explored the bommies and sandy
expanses, I looked up to see a manta cruising
the surface waters and for an instant it
appeared to circle back towards us 15 or 20
metres below. But no, it changed course again
and was gone.
Later the same day, at Lighthouse Bommies,
we were treated to another encounter, this
time a bit closer. A manta swept past across
a sandy expanse, touching the sand with its
cephalic lobes before rising slightly to clear
a bommie and gliding majestically back into
Lighthouse Bommies is a good place to see
leopard sharks. They are normally found
resting on sand and will tolerate a close
approach if you’re prepared to be patient by
edging slowly forward. We certainly saw two
specimens at this site, and possibly three,
although we couldn’t be sure if the third shark
was the same specimen we’d observed at the
beginning of the dive. At one point, a stingray
glided directly over a resting leopard shark
but it was too far away for photography. If
only I was several metres closer!
Turtles are really common here. Our visit in
March coincided with the end of the nesting
season and slap bang in the middle of the
hatching season. If hatchlings are discovered
on the island in the day, you are encouraged
to hand them to staff so that they can be
released at night, to give them a better
chance of survival We were fortunate enough
to witness a turtle laying eggs at the end
of the airstrip, one of the last of the season.
There can’t be many places where turtles are a
hazard to aviation!
Zac, introducing him to snorkeling for the first
time, which he loved. The reefs, birds, turtles
and beachcombing possibilities are highly
educational and there’s also a swimming pool
and play area.
All in all, we thought it was fantastic, a
reprieve from the relentless treadmill of
modern life. A place of simple living, fantastic
diving, nesting turtles, thousands of birds, and
the smell of guano! And with that many birds,
you will get hit. Like filling your logbook, it’s
virtually guaranteed!
Over 3 diving days, we logged an incredible
selection of big stuff, the things than can
take years to find themselves added to your
logbook. But it was more than that - Lady
Elliot Island is one of those places that you
wish you could linger for just a little longer.

There’s even a small
wreck to explore,
a yacht called the
Severance.
There are long term studies of the turtles
being conducted at Lady Elliot Island. The
staff give fascinating insights into what their
work is revealing about turtle behaviour. The
work is aimed at understanding their whole
lifespan requirements, so that they might be
conserved better in the future.
There’s even a small wreck to explore, a yacht
called the Severance. The boat rests on a
sandy bottom at about 20 metres, not far
from the reef. You can dive the wreck and
then head towards the island to finish your
dive on the reef, or like us, stay there for the
entire dive.
Around the Severance, there was plenty of
action and photographic potential. Schooling
jacks formed and re-formed into different
shapes around the wreck, while sharks lurked
on the edge of visibility. We were told that if
we were lucky, mantas will occasionally sweep
past the wreck, which would have made for
fantastic photographs, but it wasn’t to be.
All the big stuff tends to keep you occupied,
so we didn’t spend much time looking for
the “macro” inhabitants although doubtless
there’s plenty to see in this respect too. We
asked about night diving, but they seldom
happen due to the difficulty and safety of a
boat launch at night with no jetty. I imagined
that night dives would reveal some very
interesting finds. Perhaps that huge moray
might be out hunting in the open!
Although the price might be preventative for
some, Lady Elliot is a great place for divers
with families. We took our four year old son
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Lady E are common
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and ar t
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“frien
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Lady Elliot Island
surpassed our expectations
in terms of the whole
experience
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The st
aff gi
fascin
ve
into w ating insi
ghts
ha
reveal t their wo
rk is
ing ab
out tu
rtle
behavi
our.

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“You can dive the wreck and
then head towards the island
to finish your dive on the
reef, or like us, stay there
for the entire dive”

Lady Elliot Island has a surprisingly
varied and turbulent history leading
up to its current status as an “eco
resort”.
It’s thought that the island began
to form around 3000 years ago,
mainly due to a drop in sea level of
about 1 metre. The island reached
its current size around 1000 years
ago.
The island was first sighted in 1816 by
Captain Thomas Stewart aboard the Lady
Elliot ship on a voyage from Calcutta to
Sydney. He named the island after his ship
and continued his journey to arrive safely
in Sydney. The island was sighted again
in 1819 by Lieutenant Philip Parker King
aboard the Mermaid who described it as
“low and wooded”. It was then forgotten
until 1843.
With the increasing colonisation of
the Australian east coast, there was an
associated demand for ships that served
the new ports. Little detail was known of
these waters, and with the frequent loss
of ships, the Admiralty commissioned a
major survey of the Great Barrier Reef
area. It was no small task!
The first landing on the island was in
1843 where the naturalist J. Beete Jukes
recorded a scene not dissimilar to what is
there today. His notes made reference to
the bird and turtle populations.
As an aid to safe shipping, a temporary
light was erected in 1866 but it was soon
toppled in a storm. It was followed by
a more permanent structure which was
completed in 1873. The island retained
a permanent lighthouse staff for many
years, until automation made the role
A Sh o rt H is t o r
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of L a dy E
By Jeremy Cuff
redundant. Today, the original lighthouse
keeper’s cottages are now used to house
the resort staff.
The island’s fortunes went into a
downward spiral when a lease was
granted for the mining of guano. The
resulting destruction was disastrous for
the island as it was stripped of foliage and
the nutrient layers of the “guano soil”. To
make matters worse, goats were released
to roam the island freely, mainly as a
source of food for the lighthouse staff and
any shipwrecked mariners. They weren’t
eradicated until 1969.
Over the years, rumours of a ghost
inhabiting the island have added a
supernatural twist, with several accounts
now in the public domain. Reports of
mysterious footsteps, objects inexplicably
falling and smashing, and even
apparitions of a large woman have all
been recorded by island visitors!
In 1969, the fortunes of the island
began to swing towards conservation.
Conservationist and businessman Don
Adams suggested that an airstrip on the
island would provide an easy access point
to the southern part of the Great Barrier
Reef. And with that idea, he came to an
arrangement with the Commonwealth
Department of Transport to build an
airstrip in conjunction with facilities for
tourism.
Today, the island has recovered much of
its original foliage cover, with some areas
still off limits to allow the regeneration
to complete itself. The birds are back in
force, the reefs are healthy and turtles can
return to the beaches of their birth to lay
eggs in safety and protection. Let’s hope
it stays that way.

be many
t
’
n
a
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e
r
The
turtles
e
r
e
h
w
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e
plac
ard to
are a haz
aviation!
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“Schooling jacks
formed and
re-formed into di
fferent
shapes around th
e wreck”
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there
,
e
c
n
a
r
e
the Sev
d
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A
“
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was ple
otentia
p
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p
a
photogr
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The bo
at res
ts on
sandy
a
bottom
a
t abou
20 met
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res, n
ot far
from t
he ree
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on “world
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but for us
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overused
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Lady Elliot
Island Factfile
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Location
Eastern Australia is the most populated area of
Australia.
Lady Elliot Island located at the very southern tip
of the Great Barrier Reef, about 80 kilometres north
east of Bundaberg and 40 kilometres south east of the
Bunker Group, a cluster of islands, cays and reefs.
How To Get There
The only easy way to get there is by light aircraft,
usually from the aussie rum capital of Bundaberg, the
Gold Coast or Hervey Bay. It’s also possible from other
locations such as Brisbane, Maroochydore, Town of
1770 and Gladstone if booking numbers are sufficient.
Visas
Visas are required by British Citizens and can be
obtained online from www.eta.immi.gov.au
Currency
Australian Dollar

Language
English is the official language.
Health
Visitors should ensure correct inoculations prior
to departure. The latest recommendations can be
obtained from any doctor.
Dates
We stayed on Lady Elliot Island for 4 nights – arriving
21st March and departing on 25th March 2007.
Weather & Seasons
The weather can vary tremendously in this area of
Australia which includes high winds, and the seasonal
risk of storms and cyclones. If the conditions are
unfavourable, visits to Lady Elliot Island may be
cancelled. They will do their best to reschedule anyone
who is able to remain in the area.
Tour Operator
We visited Lady Elliot Island as part of a longer trip from
Sydney to Cairns, which we booked independently.
All bookings for the island are best handled direct
with the resort either via the website or by telephoning
them (see Lady Elliot Island Information).
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Lady Elliot Island Information
The island’s airstrip is only just long enough to land
a small aircraft, so there are considerable weight
restrictions for visitors. This is particularly an issue
for divers bringing their own equipment, and for
underwater photographers, but it is possible to get all
the essentials out there and back.
There’s secure parking at Bundaberg airport, so it’s
possible to store any unnecessary items in your vehicle
until you return.
Accommodation ranges from fully serviced cabins
with decks, electricity, showers and toilets to more
basic tents depending on budget and personal taste.
Visitors are free to roam most of the island although
some areas are off limits, to allow re-growth of the
foliage.
The food is buffet style meals and there’s also a
snack menu available from the bar.
The Lady Elliot Island website is a comprehensive
source of information about the island including dive
information, maps, accommodation, galleries, news,
nature calendars, bookings, flight schedules and more.
Lady Elliot Island Eco Resort
P O Box 348
Runaway Bay
Queensland 4216
Australia
Australia Free Call 1800 072 200
Phone +61 7 5536 3644
Fax +61 7 5599 5783
www.ladyelliot.com.au
[email protected]
Dive Sites Visited
Spiders Ledge
Three Pyramids
Maori Wrasse Bommies
Lighthouse Bommies
Severence Wreck
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Underwater Photographers Information
Lady Elliot Island is well equipped for the needs of
underwater photographers and videographers in terms
of the plug points for charging strobes and batteries.
The crew are helpful in ensuring that equipment is
safely stowed on the dive boat, especially on the ride
out to the dive sites and back.
Fresh water rinses are provided at the dive centre.
Although there is a shop that sells some items such
batteries, it’s best to ensure that you bring everything
that you will need.
i
Other Useful Information - Books
Diving & Snorkeling – Australia’s Great Barrier
Reef (Lonely Planet) by Len Zell
Lady Elliot Island – Great Barrier Reef Australia
by Anthony Walsh
Guide To Sea Fishes Of Australia by Rudie H. Kuiter
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Jeremy & Amanda Cuff
2 Bishopstrow Court
Boreham, Warminster
Wiltshire, UK
BA12 9HL
Tel: 01985 214362
Email: [email protected]
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