1955-57 CHEVY IFS KIT INSTRUCTIONS

1955-57 Chevy Bolt-In IFS
Instructions
TOP VIEW
Bolt-in upper
balljoint
Lower A-arm steering
stops go toward the rear
BOTTOM VIEW
Upper coilover mount
uses stock shock mounting hole
Radiator
core
support
Rack mounting bracket uses the
same rear mounting holes as the
lower A-arm adapter bracket
Lower A-arm adapter bracket
bolts to existing stock mounting
holes, four holes on each side
Pressed-in lower
balljoint
Lower cross shaft holds
A-arm to frame mounted
adapter bracket
Two Allen bolts allow
separation of upper
A-arm for installation
of reusable original
upper A-arm cross
shaft
Four rack mounting bolts
Sway Bar mount
1 each side
1
2
Torque Specs
‘55-57 Chevy Bolt-in IFS Kit
All specs are in foot pounds = ft. lbs.
TOP VIEW
Torque specs common to both sides
End Caps
All 4
10
60
60
Top
B.J. Nut
60
60
15
70
50
30
BOTTOM VIEW
50
20
30
All 4
5
60
30
20
60
50
30
Lower
B.J. Nut
50
Read this First - Overview of the Installation
THE FIRST THING TO DO IS TAKE INVENTORY of the parts received. Get familiar
with the parts! The hardware list on the next page will list all fasteners by size and where they go.
You’ll need to use assembly lube or grease for installing the urethane bushings. We use Valvoline
#612 multi-purpose red grease. Loctite #609 is provided with this kit. Use it on all threaded fasteners.
REMOVING THE COIL SPRING
After you support the front of the car by the frame, at
least 24-inches off the ground, remove all suspension/steering components. The only trick is
removing the coil spring. Remove the shock first. We recommend putting a floor jack under the
lower A-arm and disconnecting the upper balljoint. Next, slowly let the lower A-arm down. This
will relieve most of the tension on the coil spring. A pry bar, through the spring, will help you move
the coil out of the lower A-arm seat, once the floor jack is lowered all the way down. Continue
removing all steering and suspension parts.
RETRIEVING THE UPPER A-ARM CROSS SHAFTS
You’ll need to do a couple of
pre-assemblies before you can start the installation. Assembling the upper and lower A-arms
can be done on the bench, but you’ll need to remove all original front suspension parts first and
retrieve the original upper A-arm cross shafts. For this trick go to the top of page 7. After you’ve
wire brushed and painted the two cross shafts, start the upper and lower A-arm sub-assemblies,
starting on page 5.
The first photo in the LOWER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY (pg 5) and the UPPER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY section (Lower pg 6) of the instructions will show you all the parts you’ll need to locate to do
your pre-assemblies. Refer to left column pg. 4, fastener size and location.
REMOVING THE STOCK UPPER A-ARM BUMP
STOPS can be done after all suspension/steering components are removed. On both sides
of the frame, under the upper A-arms, the factory has riveted a bracket to hold the rubber
bump stop. You’ll need to remove these brackets for full upper A-arm travel, with the new Jim
Meyer IFS system. Simply grind off the rivets
or drill them out. Some sanding and black
spray paint will dress the area.
REMOVE THE UPPER SHOCK MOUNT BUSHING around the edge of the hole where the
shock bolted to the top of the frame, while
you’re removing the bump stops. Working from
the engine compartment, a hammer and chisel
can be used to drive the edges of the bushing
towards the center of the hole. Then, knock it
out with a punch.
3
4
Parts Inventory Lists & Replacement Parts
55-56-57 Chevy I.F.S.
Hardware Kit
Quantity
Fastener Size
tener
55-56-57 Chevy I.F.S.
Replacement Parts
Fas-
Location
4
4
8
16
2
7/16NF X 1 1/4 GR8 Bolts - Front
7/16NF X 1 1/2 GR8 Bolts - Rear
7/16 NF Nylock Nuts
7/16 Hardened Washers
5/16 NC X 3/8 Set Screws
1
2
1
1
1
4
2
1
1
1/2 NC X 1 3/4 GR8 Bolt
1/2 SAE Flatwashers
1/2 NC Nylock Jam Nut
3/8 NC X 1 1/4 GR8 Bolt
3/8 NC X 1 1/2 GR8 Bolt
3/8 Washers
3/8 NC Nylock Nuts
10MM X 25MM BOLT
10MM Lockwasher
2
2
2
4
1/2NC X 4 Allen H.D. Bolt
1/2 AN Washer
1/2 Nylock Nuts
Spacers
4
4
4
5/16NF X 3/4 Countersunk H.D. Bolts
3/4 I.D. X .090 Th. Stainless Washers
Aluminum Shaft Caps
4
4
4
4
4
8
8
8
3/8 NF x 3/4 Socket Head Bolts
3/8 Stainless Washers
Aluminum (Shaft) Caps
1/2 NC X 1 1/4 Hex Head Bolt
1/2 NC Nylock Jam Nut
1/4 NF X 3/4 Bolts
1/4 NF Nuts
1/4 inch Lock Washers
2
2
4
4
2
2
1/2NC X 3 Hex Head Bolts
1/2NC Nylock Nuts
1/2SAE H.D. Washers
Rod End Spacers
1/2NF Jam Nuts
1/2 X 1/2 Chrome Moly Rod Ends
2
2
2
2
4
4
2
1/2NC X 2 1/4 GR8 Bolts
1/2NC Nylock Jam Nuts
1/2NC Nylock Nuts
1/2SAE Washers
1/2SAE H.D. Washers
Spacers Or Washers
Top Shock Mounts
1
1
4
Shock Spanner Wrench
609 Locktite
Urethane Ball Joint Boots
Lower
Control
Arm
Adapter
Application
Part#
Rotors
Calipers
70-78 Camaro 11” Rotor
Spindles
79-81 Camaro 11” Rotor
L. Ball Joints
79-88 Impala 12” Rotor TRW
#10277
TRW
#10268
Top Ball Joints
Rack
&
Pinion
Mount
Brand
Rack & Pinion
85-89 Buick Electra
TRW #15718R or
15737R
Coil Over Shocks QA1 (Hal) Corp. 11” Extended
Coil Springs
7x750 7x850
Caliper Banjo Bolt 10MM
Lower ‘A’
Arm Shock
Mount
Pivot
Shafts
Top ‘A’
Arms
P.S. Pump
71-74 Chevelle
70-74 Camaro
Front Brake Hoses 79-81 Camaro
Master Cylinder
Durex #6000 with
Metric Fitting
Bendix
#77225
67-76 Corvette Manual Bendix
Disc Brake
#11371
Rack & Pinion Steering Unit
85-92 BUICK ELECTRA - trw#15718R- Return port - 16mm
‘o’ ring - m16x1.5 thd. Pinion spline size-17mm double ‘D’Pressure port-18mm ‘o’ ring-M18x1.5 thd.
Tie Rod
Ends
Brake Parts List
Master Cylinder - Dual Chamber Bendix 11371 from 67-76
Corvette Manual Disc Brakes.
2 Brake Hoses - Bendix 77225 from 79-81 Camaro.
Top
Shock
Mount
1 Proportioning Valve
1 - 1/4” x 12” Brake Line
1 - 1/4 x 60” Brake Line
2 - Master Cylinder Fittings
1 - 1/4” Coupler
1 - 1/4” Plug
1955-57 Chevy Bolt-in IFS Instructions
1
LOWER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY
2
Set
Screw
Find these parts to assemble the lower A-arm. The
balljoint comes pressed-in.
Refer to the HARDWARE PAGE 4
for fastener sizes.
Grease both the bushings (inside and out) and
the holes on each end of
the lower A-arms. Use
assembly lube or wheel
bearing grease with a
small brush.
3
4
On the bottom of each
A-arm adapter bracket
is stamped “DR” for
drivers side and “PASS”
for passenger side.
Use only a plastic mallet or rubber hammer to
tap the shaft through the first 2 bushings.
Then, install a 3/4-inch diameter washer
between the
bushing and the
adapter bracket.
Continue to tap
the pivot shaft
through to the
next bushing.
Grease everything (inside and out) on
each side of lower arm. After the
bushings are greased and installed,
continue to grease the lower A-arm
pivot shaft, lower A-arm bracket-shaft
hole and inside of the bushings.
5
5
6
1955-57 Chevy Bolt-in IFS Instructions
LOWER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY - Con’t
6
Add 1 more
washer (same
size) at the
other end of
the lower Aarm adapter
bracket
between the
A-arm and
bracket.
8
7
Use the aluminum capshaft screw (5/16NF X 3/4
countersunk) to tap the
shaft through the last 1/4inch.
After the lower A-arm sub-assembly is together,
install the aluminum end caps and Loctite both 5/16
NF countersunk flathead screws in each end. Using
an Allen wrench on each end of the shaft (end
caps) will keep the shaft from turning. Next, find the
5/16NC X 3/8 set screw, Loctite it and install as
shown.
UPPER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY
Find these parts to assemble the upper A-arm.
The balljoint drops in and is
held by four 1/4-20 X 3/4inch bolts and Nylock nuts
(torque to 5 ft. lbs.). Reuse
the original cross shafts.
9
Two 5/8 id washers go
on the forward end of
the cross shaft, before
the removeable arm is
installed.
1955-57 Chevy Bolt-in IFS Instructions
UPPER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY - Con’t
Place the stock A-arm
in the vice, holding it
by the cross shaft.
Find a short length of
heavy wall tubing or
socket, a little bigger
than the bushing. A
small flat piece of
steel makes a good
hammering surface. Holding the cross shaft in the
vise, place the tube over the
bushing. The hammer will knock
the A-arm down away from the
bushing. Do this on one end only.
Clean-up and paint original
cross shaft.
11
10
13
Place the stock cross shaft in the rear section
of the upper A-arm first. Bushing goes on from
outside, then the stainless washer, aluminum
end cap. Next, install new 3/8 NF x 3/4 Socket
head bolts to the original cross shaft and
Loctite. Torque all four to 10 ft. lbs.
12
Place two 5/8 id washers on the forward end of
the cross shaft. Next, install the forward arm of
the A-arm, then push the bushing on the cross
shaft from the outside, through the A-arm.
14
This removeable forward arm of the upper A-arm assembly allows the cross shaft to be re-installed. Install this arm
after the cross shaft has been installed in the other arm.
Just like the other end, install the bushing from the outside end.
7
UPPER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY - Con’t
8
Install the two Allen cap screws and Nylock nuts
(by the balljoint). Torque both to 60 ft. lbs. Do
not install on car yet, unless you jump ahead and
follow the installation instructions.
15
If you use two Allen wrenches at the same time or one
Allen wrench and a drift pin in
one of the cross shaft holes,
the two 3/8 flat-head Allen
bolts and aluminum end
caps will go together
easier. Torque to
10 ft. lbs. and
be sure to
use the
thread locker
provided!
16
Installing Sub-Assemblies to the Chassis
Starting with the Lower A-Arms
You’ll be using the
same (8) holes that
you just removed
the stock IFS from.
Locate 8, 7/16NF X
1 1/4-inch long bolts
and Nylock nuts
and 16, 7/16 washers (one washer on
top and bottom).
17
19
The two rear holes on
each side will also hold
the rack bracket. Keep
the front bolts in finger
tight until the rack
bracket is installed,
then torque all 8 to 60
ft. lbs. Since the rear
bolts are at an angle,
the rack bracket needs
to be tight against the
crossmember for the
bolts to go in through Aarm bracket, rack
bracket and
crossmember.
18
Bottom view of stock front crossmember
20
After the rack bracket is installed, hang the
rack by the 4 mounting holes. Find 1, 1/2NC X
1 3/4-inch bolt with 1/2-inch washers top and
bottom with 1/2-inch Nylock nut, 1, 3/8NC X
1 1/4-inch long bolts, 1, 3/8 NC x 1 1/2-inch
long bolts with 3/8 washers top and bottom
with 3/8 Nylock nuts, and 1, 10MM X 25MM bolt
and 10MM washer, no nut here. Loctite all
threads and follow the Torque Page Specs.
INSTALLING LOWER A-ARM SUB-ASSEMBLY - Con’t
This is how the bottom of the crossmember
will look after the lower A-arm and rack
bracket has been installed. Sway bar tabs
on the A-arms should be pointing forward.
21
22
SWAY BAR TABS
Looking up at the bottom of the crossmember, the
10MM odd ball bolt is circled (no nut on this one). Be
sure to use thread locker. The 2, 3/8 bolts go on each
end. Torque ‘em!
Find and install the upper coilover
mounting bracket. The threaded end
goes into the stock upper shock mount
hole. Be sure to place a 1/2-inch washer
under the 1/2-inch Nylock nut and
torque to 60 ft.lbs. This bracket-end is
also used with the BB coil setup, except
no upper spring seat is used around the
coilover. The stock spring-seat in the
frame is used.
23
Looking down at the rear of the front crossmember,
shows the assembled rack bracket.
24
9
10
INSTALLING SUB-ASSEMBLIES TO THE CHASSIS - Con’t
After the upper coilover
bracket has been
installed, this view
looking up at the
bottom of the chassis shows the
coilover
mounted
in the
chassis.
25
Check the spring pre-load on your assembled
coilover. With the top of the spring seated into the
upper collar, thread the lower collar with stainless
washer (next to spring) against the spring. Using
the spanner wrench enclosed, thread the lower
collar 3/4-to 1-inch up the threads and tighten the
collar lock nut against the lower collar.
26
For BB installations, the same coilover
is used with a larger coil spring and
collar (shown). The larger coil seats
in the frame just like the stock
coil, while the bottom of
the spring seats on a
new larger collar
that offers all
the
adjustability
of a regular
QA1 coilover!
27
Now you can install the coilover in the lower Aarm. Be sure to install a bushing on either side
of the coilover when installing the 1/2NC X 4inch bolt. Use thread locker and install the
Nylock nut. Torque to 60 ft. lbs.
28
29
The spindle assembly needs no adjustments. We pack
bearing, install pads-adjust bearing pre-load! Just
install on the A-Arms. Place the pre-assembled spindle
assembly over the lower balljoint. Make sure the
urethane boot goes between the spindle and A-arm.
Torque this castellated nut to 70 ft. lbs. and install the
cotter pin.
INSTALLING UPPER A-ARMS ON THE CHASSIS
The washers on the upper A-arm cross shaft
helps to space the A-arms away from the frame.
On some chassis, the A-arm will hit the frame
mount. If the A-arm still hits the frame, use a
large Crescent wrench and slightly bend the edge
of the A-arm mount toward the rear. A 1/16-inch
clearance is all that is necessary.
30
31
32
33
Be sure the urethane balljoint boot goes between the spindle and the A-arm, then swing
the upper A-arm into the top of the spindle and
attach the castellated nut and cotter pin, and
torque to 60 ft. lbs.
Install the upper A-arm and nuts next. We
recommend a couple of washers on each side
of the cross shaft until you get to the frontend
shop. We usually measure the alignment shims
after the alignment and replace them with an
equal amount of washers so they absolutely
won’t fall out. You can do the same if you’d like.
11
12
INSTALLING SPINDLE ASSEMBLY & STEERING ENDS
34
The spindle, coilover, and
A-arms should all be
installed by now. Install the
tie-rod ends with Nylock
nuts. Find the 2, 1/2NC X 3inch long Allen head bolts
with Nylock nuts, 2, 1/2inch washers, 4, “hat”
washers for the rod ends.
Place a “hat” washer on
each side of the rod end,
placing the top of the hat
toward the rod-end ball for
total ball movement or
rotation. Place a 1/2-inch
flat washer under each
Nylock nut and don’t forget
to use thread locker!
Notice the bolt goes into
the steering arm from the
bottom. Torque to 50 ft. lbs.
35
Install the raised end of the
urethane bushings into the
holes as shown.
36
Looking at the bottom of
the chassis, install the
(optional) sway bar (until
bushings are slightly
compressed) to the front
tabs on the lower A-arms
with the weight of the
car on the tires. The
sway bar can go on top
or bottom of the A-arm
tab, depending on your
car’s stance! Find 2, 3/
8NC X 4-inch long hex
head bolts with Nylock
nuts, 4, 3/8NC X 1-inch
hex head bolts with
Nylock nuts and 4 flat
washers.
37
INSTALLING THE SWAY BAR TO CHASSIS
AND LOWER A-ARMS
38
A concave
washer goes
on the top and
bottom of the
sandwich.
39
With the weight of the car on the tires and the
ends of the sway bar connected to the lower Aarms, install the urethane bushings and sway bar
brackets around the 1-inch diameter sway bar.
Lift the assembly up to the frame and mark the
holes. Drill 2, 3/8-inch diameter holes in each
side. Torque to 30 ft. lbs.
CONNECTING THE STEERING LINKAGE
40
41
42
This is how your new steering linkage hooks up to the
bottom of your column. Either your old stock column
modified, new ididit or Flaming River column will need
a double “D” U-joint to mate with the standard linkage
shown below..
With stock ’55-57 Chevy exhaust manifolds, ’68-72
Chevy pickup Ram horn style, ‘vette, block hugger,
Sanderson’s BB1 or BB3 big block Chevy headers will
work with our standard linkage setup.
However, other headers (like some equal length
styles) may require your steering linkage to use a
support bearing to re-route it through the header
tubes, if they come out toward the inner-fender panel
too far.
When installing your steering linkage U-joints, make all Ujoint connections as shown! The connecting shafts that
enter the U-joints should be mounted flush on the inside!
Your steering can be severely limited or lock-up if the
connecting shaft protrudes into the U-joint travel area!
Loctite and tighten all set screws in the U-joint as tight as
possible and lock in place with the jam nut and check them
occassionally.
ä
43
13
14
CONNECTING THE STEERING SYSTEM - PUMP & HOSES
The GM gear box pump (provided) works excellent with our ’85-88
Buick Electra power rack. This same GM605 pump can be used with
this Buick rack if you are converting a 605 system over to the Buick
rack. The optional pump kit shown does not include the (optional)
double-groove V-belt crank pulley, however it will be needed if you
now have a single crank pulley. All kit components are available
separately.
44
45
Optional Pump Kit
NO ROCKET SCIENCE HERE! If you
use our optional hose kit, you can
not get the lines hooked up wrong! If
you have your own lines made and
they get hooked up backwards, the
car will self steer and you will not be
able to stop the steering wheel from
turning back-and-forth when the engine is running! At the back
of the power steering pump, the threaded fitting is the high
pressure line out and the push-on hose is the low pressure
return line.
CONNECTING THE BRAKE SYSTEM
Optional Brake Kit
46
REMOVE THE ORIGINAL MASTER CYLINDER and bolt the new dual
chamber M/C to the firewall using the 2 lower holes. Under the dash,
you’ll need to readjust the pedal-rod length to bring the pedal up
against the brake light switch.
ADJUSTING THE PROPORTIONING VALVE will
give you the braking balance between the
front discs and the rear drums or rear discs.
Turn the knob clockwise to decrease pressure to the rear. The proportioning valve has
about 8 turns lock-to-lock. Start (adjusting) with
the knob in the middle. This will be about 4 turns
from either end. Connect the proportioning valve to
the rear port shown in the photo. This places the
proportioning valve in the line to the rear drum brakes.
The banjo fitting for the front banjo style hoses are in the
calipers. All kit components are available separately.
CONNECTING THE BRAKE SYSTEM, Con’t
47
As you noticed in the brake kit photo on the
other page, a 60-inch length of 1/4-inch brake
line, a 1/4-inch union and 1/4-inch plug are
included. The original 1/4-inch supply line
from the original master cylinder should be
installed in the front port of the new dual
chamber master cylinder. In the rear master
cylinder port, install the short 1/4-inch line
with 2-90-degree bends in it and attach the
proportioning valve to the end of this short
line (like the photo) to the port marked “IN”.
Plug
ä
ä
ä
ä
Union
NEXT, install the 60-inch brake line in the
“OUT” port of the proportioning valve and route it to the right side of the frame just behind the rear of
the upper A-arm. Follow the old brake line path to the right side of the frame. Find the “T” fitting and
remove the original rear line and plug it with the 1/4-inch inverted flare plug provided. Next, attach the
new line to the rear line with the union provided. In review, the front line of the master cylinder should
go to the front brakes and the rear line from the master cylinder should be going to the rear brakes.
WHEN SETTING THE TOE-IN always measure
between the same tread on each wheel. We
recommend setting about an 1/8-inch toe-in
when you’re finished with the installation. First,
you’ll have to measure the back (of tires) between the treads and then the front using the
same tread as the rear. When the measurements
match, then you can set the front tread 1/8-inch
in.
48
15
16
JIM MEYER RACING PRODUCTS
WARNING: Installation of any component or kit should only be performed by persons
experienced in the installation and proper operation of SUSPENSION SYSTEMS. It is
also the responsibility of the person installing any SUSPENSION SYSTEM or kit to
determine the suitability of the component or kit for that particular application.
DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY
Purchasers recognize and understand that suspension systems and equipment, and all parts, inventory and
services manufactured and/or by JIM MEYER RACING PRODUCTS are exposed to many and varied conditions
due to the manner in which they are installed and used. Purchasers and Jim Meyer Racing Products consciously desire
to make their own bargain, irrespective of any court decision and purchasers agree upon good faith and in consideration for being allowed to purchase from Jim Meyer Racing Products said part or services. Purchasers expressly
acknowledge and understand that Jim Meyer Racing Products does not make any affirmation of fact or promise to
purchaser, which related to said parts, inventory, or services that becomes part of the basis of the bargain between Jim
Meyer Racing Products and purchasers. Nor does Jim Meyer Racing Products make, or cause to be made to purchaser
any description of the goods sold to purchaser, nor does Jim Meyer Racing Products make or cause to be made, a part
of the basis of the bargain with purchasers, any description of affirmation of fact concerning any sample or suspension
systems, and equipment inventory or service.
As further consideration for purchasers using Jim Meyer Racing Products suspension systems and equipment
any and all inventory and services, purchasers acknowledge that due to the differing conditions and circumstances
under which all equipment and parts are installed and used, purchasers are not relying on Jim Meyer Racing Products
skill or judgement to select or furnish the proper part or equipment. Purchasers expressly affirm they are relying upon
their own skill or judgement to select and purchase suitable goods.
Jim Meyer Racing Products makes no warranties whatsoever, expressed or implied, oral or written, to purchasers. There is no warranty of merchantability made to purchasers. Jim Meyer Racing Products further excludes
any implied warranty of fitness with respect to suspension system and equipment, any and all inventory and service.
It is expressly understood and agreed between purchasers and Jim Meyer Racing Products that as a part of
bargain between Jim Meyer Racing Products and purchaser, and in consideration of doing business with each other, all
purchasers take, select and purchase said suspension system, equipment, any and all inventory, or services from Jim
Meyer Racing Products “as is” and “with all faults” and Jim Meyer Racing Products shall always provide purchasers
with a full and complete opportunity to examine, at purchasers leisure and convenience, any suspension system and
equipment, any and all inventory, or services when purchasing or contemplating purchasing from Jim Meyer Racing
Products.
If, and in the event that purchasers expressly or impliedly cause representations, or statements or affirmations
of fact contrary to this disclaimer of all warranties, expressed or implied, then purchasers agree to indemnity and hold
harmless Jim Meyer Racing Products in the event of any claim, demand, or legal action against Jim Meyer Racing
Products by any purchaser.
Purchasers understand and agree that no officer, director, employee, or salesman of Jim Meyer Racing Products has any authority to make any statement contrary to the terms of this agreement. On the contrary, Jim Meyer
Racing Products disavows any statement contrary to what is herein above written.