September - Fine wine magazine

Transcription

I n s p i r at i o n a l w i n e k n o w l e d g e a n d t h e p e o p l e b e h i n d t h e d r i n k
Sep t e m be r
I N T E R N A T I O N A L
WebAuctio
FRANO MILOS
- WINEMAKER IN CROATIA sid 12
NATURAL HARMONY - IN SOUTHERN
GERMAN WINEMAKING sid 17
2013
n s p e c ia l
I N T E
R N A T
I O N A
L
WINE PRODUCTION ON
FOUR CONTINENTS sid 34
page 6 A WINE EQUILIBRIST IN A TROPICAL ENVIRONMENT page 12 FRANO MILOS - WINEMAKER IN CROATIA
page 17 NATURAL HARMONY - IN SOUTHERN GERMAN WINEMAKING page 28 GARDEN WINES WITH BODY & SOUL
page 34 Wine production on four continents page 39 LA CHABLISIENNE page 44 SWEDEN´S STATE OWNED OFFLICENSE CHAIN THE SYSTEMBOLAGET IS INCREASING ITS EMPHASIS UPON CONSUMER INFORMATION IN STORES page 46
THE AUTUMN BUDGET PROMISES RAISED TAXES
WebAuction Special: PAGE 52 ONLINE AUCTION OCTOBER 7 TO 9 STHLM PAGE 55 NETAUCTION 7-9 STHLM COMMENTS
BY PETER THUSTRUP OCTOBER 5TH SALE PAGE 59 ACKER MERRAL & CONDIT OCTOBER 26 SALE IN HONG KONG PAGE 54
SOTHEBY´S 5 OCTOBER SALES IN HONG KONG SOTHEBY´S MOËT & CHANDON SALE IN LONDON 13 NOVEMBER LEGENDARY
LATE OWNER OF PÉTRUS AND LATOUR Á POMEROL PAGE 68 SHANGHAI INTERNATIONAL WINE & SPIRITS SHOW 24 - 26
OCTOBER
notice
Argentina Comes to
Stockholm
Roberto Luka and Rogelio Rabino
were responsible for creating a magical evening in Stockholm’s Old Town. It
was all about tasting Finca Sophenias
white and red wines together with
some
Argentinian food. Unfortunately though, only
one of the wines
is available on the
Swedish market.
FINCA SOPHENIA
Malbec 2011, which
was launched on
June 1 at the Swedish
state-owned
off-license chain,
the
Systembolaget. Item No: 6611,
Price: 99 kr, Alc:
14.5%
Gary Baumgarten visits Stockholm
One of South Africa’s top producers of premium wines, Gary Baumgarten, CEO of Rupert Wines, made a lightning appearance
at Lisa Elmqvist in the Östermalmshallen
in Stockholm for a presentation of its premium segment.
The wines tested were Anthonij Rupert,
Optima and the Cape of Good Hope. Both
of them gave a lasting impression of the
high quality these wines represent. Perhaps a future investment? Let’s hope we see
them again in Sweden soon.
Learn more about these wines on www.rupertwines.com
Diebolt-Vallois´s Crown Jewel
– makes a world debut in Sweden
The Diebolt-Vallois family has chosen Sweden to become the first country in the
world to offer the highly acclaimed Champagne Diebolt-Vallois Fleur de Passion
2006 (99414).
On the 2nd September, 840 bottles of Champagne House’s pride and joy, took
their place in the Systembolaget’s exclusive range. Those who were there and
willing to pay 599 Swedish crowns were able to uncork a memorable taste
experience, which can only be described as delicate, complex and intense. For
those who can wait, they will get the most out of this champagne after a few
years cellaring.
Fine Wine - the on-line Magazine
”Life is too short to drink bad wine.”
The quotation is familiar to most people and is often used when fine wines are mentioned. But how does it really affect our behaviour when we’re preparing for a dinner party with
good friends? When it comes to food we prepare the very best we can afford. But what about when
it comes to buying the wine? Here in Sweden, the boulevard press are always recommending the
discount bag-in-a-box or the cheapest drinkable plonk. Time to make a change don’t you think?
In this issue of Fine Wine we will be travelling to the warm regions of southern Spain; we will become acquainted with new wines from Croatia and make a flying visit to Chablis. We also check out some southern
German ‘natural wine producers’ and visit a producer in South Africa who makes ‘Garden Wine’ with body and soul.
In our Web Auction Special we evaluate some of the lots in the upcoming online auction. Enjoy.
Ove Canemyr, Editor in chief
Fine Wine-the on-line magazine in a glass of its own!
www.FineWine.nu
Please feel free to share Fine Wine International with friends and acquaintances who are over 20 years old and who interested in Fine Wines.
Let us know of any interesting events, meetings and so on, in your part of the world. [email protected] We cannot accept responsibility
for unsolicited material, omissions or inaccuracies. Please quote freely from Fine wine, but we ask that you always reveal your source.
Editoral Office:
Ove Canemyr: Editor in Chief , Fine Wine Magazine/Trendsetter Box 24013, 104 50 Stockholm. Layout : Sophie L Slettengren, By Design AB,
English texts: Roger Brett, Broadcasting Arts. [email protected] Editing and Proofreading: Kristine Larsen [email protected]
Cover photo: Anne-Marie Canemyr
2
notice
Gay Wine is launched in
Uruguay
Elunda, Deon och Andrea
A Trio Of Winemakers
At a tasting of South African wines at
The JanÅke Wine Group in Stockholm
recently, there were no less than three
South African winemakers present:
Elunda Basson, senior winemaker at
Pongracz, Dean Boshoff, senior winemaker at Zonnenbloem and A Place
in the Sun, and Andrea Freeborough,
winemaker for Fleur du Cap.
From Pongracz there was a selection
that included a number of sparkling
wines -Pongracz Brut, Rosé, and Desiderius Pongracz Brut. Pongracz Brut
is stocked by the Swedish off-license
chain Systembolaget and the other
two can be specially ordered.
Zonnenbloem showed off their white
Zonnebloem Sauvignon Blanc (a big
seller at Systembolaget in BiB) and
their red Zonnenbloem Lauréat, both
2010 vintage.
Fleur du Cap presented, amongst
others, their Unfiltered 2010 and also
an unfiltered 2009 Merlot. Both are
available at the Systembolaget.
South African wines are gaining in
popularity and for most wineries the
Northern European market is the
largest and most important.
More about the wines available at
www.janake.se
Recently, it became final that Uruguay is
going to allow same-sex marriage . The
country’s President Jose Mujica of the
Extreme Left Wing party has welcomed
the bill, describing it as “Having Easter
already in May.” This makes Uruguay Latin America’s second country state after
the neighboring Argentina who have
also approved same-sex marriages .
And to manifest its happiness in this decision , the wine industry has jumped
on the band wagon. Because now it
has launched its very first Gay Wine.
The wine , which goes under the name
of Ithaca, will be sold in up-market bars
mainly in the capital of Montevideo.
_ “We do not mean that the wine is
only for gay people , but that the wine
is intended for a public that is generally
more open” , says Martín Guerra Vergara,
entrepreneur and promoter at a press
conference to the country’s press.
The Lily Bollinger Award
for 2013 is decided
This year’s top female sommelier is
Ulrika Ferlin from Mariefred. After a
tough final round yesterday in Stockholm the Lily Bollinger Award for
2013 was decided. Ulrika Ferlin can
now call herself “This Year Lily “ after
Lily Bollinger, the champagne widow,
who for decades raised the venerable
Bollinger champagne house to the
high reputation it enjoys today.
“I’m so happy that it went so well!
Hardest thing was the theory, and I
was very nervous as I stood there on
the stage but it all went well in the
end. Now I’ll digest this and then I suppose I’ll be eager to continue competing,” says the 22-year old Ulrika.
To celebrate her 75th birthday, the legendary Swedish
variety artist Lill-Babs will launch
her own wine and donate the profits to
charity.
The Lill-Babs Sauvignon Blanc is dry, fresh and fruity and
pairs perfectly with fish, seafood and chicken, or just to drink
as it is.
Lill-Babs Sauvignon Blanc is available through the Swedish
state-owned off-license chains Systembolaget ordering catalog, priced at 89 Swedish crowns, item # 75044.
Lill-Babs birthday is on the 9th March and all profits will go
to her own Lill-Babs Foundation which works to improve
people’s living conditions, and protect and enhance natural
and cultural resources.
F I N E W I N E o n yo u r R e a d e r Pa d
N o w ’s t h e t i m e t o f i l l u p yo u r r e a d e r p a d w i t h s o m e c o n t e n t .
Yo u c a n d o w n l o a d Fi n e Wi n e a s a Pd f f i l e a n d r e a d i t o n t h e r e a d e r.
P l e a s e p a s s t h i s o n t o f r i e n d s a n d a c q u a i n t e n c e s.
w w w. f i n e w i n e. n u
3
notice
The Douro Boys are celebrating ten years of joint
wine making
The small group exclusive winemakers in northern Portugal, called the Douro Boys
, are now celebrating ten years of joint production. To commemoratethis, they
have produced a red wine and a port where all the grapes come from their associated wineries. These are not just any old wineries by the way. They are amongst the
most emblematic in the area : Quinta do Vallado , Quinta do Crasto, Quinta Vale D.
Maria , Quinta do Vale Meao and Quinta de Nápoles . To name but just a few.
The project has made headlines in the winepress where the association was first
published a decade ago . It is rather surprising really because many of these producers were previously competitors to each other, and to some extent still are.
The wines are as follows: The Douro Boys Cuvée 2011 and Douro Boys Vintage
Port 2011, made i n only 750 magnum bottles each. Sales are through a wine auction in the Douro Valley on 13 September this year.
Behind the Douro Boys , we find producers Francisco Olazabal , Miguel Roquett ,
Francisco Ferreira , Dirk van der Niepoort and Cristiano van Zeller .
Spanish youth rejecting Wines
There is almost panic in the wine industry in Spain. Consumption has plunged
during the last two decades and now reports say that it has plummeted from 40
liters per person down to a mere 15 liters per capita per year . If this is true , then
numbers are extremely controversial , because it will mean that the Spanish wine
producers will have to exert themselves even more to focus upon the export market.
Experience tells that this is a not an easy road to take .
Right now the industry is about to launch a giant bet campaign towards the
younger generation. There will be “Round “Table discussions, and a series of seminars will be held , to highlight the burning question. While out in the country ,
most young people have long since switched to beer and cocktails. But even here,
there´s been a healthy switch towards low alcohol wines that end up in the Spanish shopping baskets instead of the more traditional wines .
But the industry is also casting an eye on the Nordic and UK market , where wine
consumption seems to be stable. Or, as in Sweden , where it has reached new
heights. Today , in Sweden we drink almost 30 liters of wine per person per year .
Distell / Cape Legends and CSR Policy program.
In June of this year, Carina Gous, manager of wine production at Distell / Cape Legends in South Africa, attended the JanÅke Wine Group together with Sue Birch of
WOSA (Wines of South Africa) to tell us more about CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility) and the attendant policies pertinent to this initiative.
Carina Gous
Su Birch
Prior to the merger between Distillers Corporation and The Stellenbosch Farmers
Winery there was already a policy in place dealing with social issues within the company structure. Carina explains that while progress has been made in this sphere,
many challenges remain. There is an expectation through CSR that issues such as
poverty, health, education and community development within the vineyard and
wine industries will be addressed.
Sue told me about her background, experience and their own initiatives in the context of building WOSA. This was a well-attended seminar in which many questions
was answered. If interested in more information please contact janåke.johansson@
janåke.se for more information.
4
Good news
for Connoisseurs
This autumn you have the possibility to buy rare bottles
at Systembolagets online auctions in collaboration with
Stockholms Auktionsverk at www.stadsauktion.se
7–9 of October starting at 1 pm
11–19 of November starting at 1 pm
9–11 of December starting at 1 pm
C294274_FineWine_180x240_SE+ENG.indd 2
2013-09-12 10:08
5
a balancing act
in a tropical
environment
Words & Pictures: Johan Franco Cereceda
Just a stone’s throw away from the Costa Tropical in southern Spain, wine cultivation is starting to establish itself. And the wines they are making are surprisingly good. Best of all is the
Horacio Calvente which has already attained international cult status for its white wine.
>>>
6
of place and it
proved difficult to contact them,
but after a few tries, eventually
someone at the Bodegas Horacio
Calvente pickd up the phone and
we agreed upon a date and time
for me to visit. I promised to call
the day before to confirm but
when I did they had completely
forgotten that I was coming!
It’s a sleepy kind
the small town is
the Fig Square, where Jörgen Wettervik and his wife Sandra have
established a restaurant selling
shrimp sandwiches. It has become
popular with the local Swedes
who have settled here in the tropical environment. Jörgen is familiar with the local wine producers
In the middle of
who are beginning to make their
presence felt.
is undoubtedly
one of the better. But the funny
thing is that there are more and
more winemakers who are proving it’s possible to make wine in a
tropical setting.”
“Horacio Calvente
Well, being flexible is a hallmark
of the Spanish, or so I thought!
When I arrived the following day
the owner, Horacio Calvente, was
not there – he’d forgotten, but he
promised to hurry up. And sure
enough, after a while waiting outside the little bodega, he came
screeching up in his car.
“I’ve lost a day this week - I thought
it was Thursday and it’s already
Friday,” he apologized.
The bodega is located ten minutes’
drive to the north of the Spanish seaside town of Almuñécar.
Many Swedes find their way here
during the winter months and
it seems like half the population
have apartments they can escape
to during the insanely hot summer months.
located in what is known
as the Costa Tropical which sports
a coastline worthy of the name.
It’s a pleasantly humid late July
afternoon and as the mercury rises towards the 40’s the humidity
is worthy of a steam room. They
grow bananas, chirimoya , mango
and avocado here, and just 20k’s
to the east in Montero there is a
rum distillery, using sugar from
the cane which they grow locally.
The city is
>>>
7
Previously, the entire southern
coast of Spain was known for its
fortified wines made from the
sweet Muscatel grape. Of course
in the Jerez area you would quench
your thirst with a dry fino. Interestingly, today more and more
producers are making dry wines red, rosé as well as white. And it is
the white wine that pours out of
Horacio Calventes’s winepress, for
both domestic and international
consumption. In a recent edition
of ‘1001 Wines you need to Drink
before you Die’, Calvente’s white
wine is included. Who would have
thought that just a few years ago?
lies in making a dry white wine,” he says,
when we eventually settle down
for a chat in the bodega. All
around us hang many animal trophies from his years of hunting.
“The major challenge
called Castillejos
which lies at around 1000 meters.
Up there we grow a few acres of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Tempranillo and Syrah. All four
are blended into the wine that
bears the Castillejos label. The
result is excellent for a wine positioned in the upper medium price
range.
“I have a vineyard
great and he is well
traveled, even though his happy
hunting grounds are in the vicinity. We are sitting at 200, perhaps
300 metres above sea level. It’s
still hot and very humid. Growing grapes in an environment like
this may seem like taking the risk
of a lifetime. It would make sense
to be up in the mountains further
inland. Like the Sierra Nevada
mountain range, with peaks above
3000 metres. And indeed, this is
where Horacio Calvente has his
vineyards.
His interest is
has a very different
climate which gives the fruit that
much needed acidity. It is very
steep, in places upwards of 45 degrees, and the barren soil is both
rocky and mineral-rich which
lends the wines a pleasant complexity.
The vineyard
no more than
4,500 kg per hectare, and only
the best fruit is selected so as to
maintain quality. Releasing a wine
The yield is low,
>>>
8
of ‘flexible character’ is not something you’d want to do.
destroy just about
everything that I’m trying to build
up,” says Horacio. “Today, the
name Horacio Calvente stands
for quality, despite, or perhaps in
spite of, the area where the wines
come from. To compromise the
quality would be disastrous. All I
have is my name as a guarantee of
quality.”
“No, it would
The area falls within
a DOP, Vino
de Calidad de Granada, but the
denomination is not well-known,
and many of the wines haven’t
yet attained the highest standard.
Horacio Calvente is nevertheless
pretty happy with the development.
” If you compare it to what it was
a few years ago, there have been
enormous improvements. When
you drank local wine in this region, say ten years ago, you never
knew quite what you had in the
glass - it was a bit of an adventure!
Today’s low quality considerably
higher than before.”
vente’s philosophy ensures that
production is restricted in spite of
glowing reviews, the international
acclaim and growing demand.
quality must improve before the area becomes
known for premium wines. Exposure to the Costa Tropical, and the
Costa del Sol to the west, is almost
infinite, and it’s there that Señor
Calvente wants his wines. There
are already several top restaurants
in the country that stock them and
he exports to dozens of countries,
but is always on the lookout for
new markets. The Swedish market
is particularly attractive, given the
Swedish colony in southern Spain
is still expanding.
to the dry white wine
in particular, the Calvente Guindalera. Made from Muscat, it is
known for its aromatic character and gentle acidity. The wine
is surprisingly fresh, with a large
dose of tropical fruitiness. Quite
brilliant in its simplicity and a
really exciting wine to go with
grilled monkfish accompanied by
mango chutney.
He believes the
Production is limited, with scarcely ten acres, which yields a few
hundred thousand bottles and the
bodega, in the small village of Jete
about 10 k’s north of Almuñécar,
has no room for expansion. Cal-
This applies
“This is my pride ,
the wine I work
with mostly. Making a dry, white
wine with good acidity to balance
a lot of fruit is a big challenge,” he
says, smiling. A smile that reveals
he knows he has succeeded.
have an amazing concentration, attributed partly to
the vines being pre-phylloxera,
meaning they are more than 120
The wines
>>>
9
Horacio Calventes wines:
years old and not grafted onto
American rootstock. The isolated
high-altitude location has made
this possible.
is far too restless a man to settle for this; he
has several projects in the pipeline
and has recently planted one hectare of Viognier. We are talking
about wine cultivation 1,500 metres above sea level. On the other
hand, his Petit Verdot Rosé has
become a hot topic among wine
aficionados in Spain as well as his
Horacio Calvente
Xate-O, a white wine Moscatel /
Viognier blend which is selling as
soon as the stock hits the shelves
in shops all along the Mediterranean coast.
experience the essence
of his vision, the Calvente Guindalera white and Castillejos red
are both excellent examples of
how surprisingly good wines can
come from a tropical setting. A
paradox in itself; what a surprise!
Should you
Xate-O, dry white, Moscatel de Alejandría and Viognier.
Simple, straightforward wine, aromatic with good fruit and a sprightly
acidity.
Pink-O, rosé a blend of Petit Verdot
and Tempranillo.
Sturdy, fruit-driven in more of a claret style wine than a lighter red wine.
There is a certain roughness and a
dominant cherry length.
Laguin-da, red, 55% Tempranillo,
45% Syrah.
Fruity, well-balanced, fresh with a little mineral character.
Guindalero Blanco, dry
Moscatel de Alejandría.
white,
Aromatic, complex in that peculiar
style in which the Muscat grape
dominates the aroma, while maintaining a good acidity on the palate
with a tropical fruit-oriented character and hints of minerality.
Guindalero Tinto, red, a blend of
Tempranillo, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.
Fruit-oriented flavour, a bit straggly
in style, with light jam-like elements
and a certain arduous finish.
Castillejos, red, 40% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15 % Tempranillo
& 10% Merlot.
Solidly exciting, good balance,
fruity. A well-integrated wine, complex with good acidity, peppery
with good length.
10
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11
frano milos–
winemaker with
his sights set on
plavac mali
TEXT: SUSANNE BERGLUND KRANTZ PHOTO: SUSANNE BERGLUND KRANTZ and FRANO MILOS
I am reporting from the beautiful world-heritage city of Dubrovnik in the southern-most
part of Croatia. Travelling on a local bus, I take in the stunning beauty of the Orika coastline
to Ston on the Peljesac peninsula, one hour north of Dubrovnik. This is home to winemaker
Frano Milos, known not only here but with a reputation that reaches far beyond Croatia’s
borders. Frano, together with his with daughter Franica, meets us at the station and from
there our journey continues in the family’s jeep, to their vineyards and cellar.
Frano Milos in the vineyard
>>>
12
Croatia’s southern coastline
CROATIA
the vineyards and in the wineries.
This country has a history of viticulture stretching back in time
to the ancient Greeks and Phoenicians. They helped take the
wine further west into Europe a
hundred years before the birth of
Christ. During Tito’s rule of Yugoslavia most of the cooperative
wineries disappeared, and the civil
war in the 1990s saw the demise
of many vineyards.
is divided into two
main regions; Continental Hrvatska, in the interior. This region is
divided into sub regions (like Slavonia, where many an Italian oak
cask originates) and these are further defined into smaller districts.
Here, behind the mighty mountain ranges, the climate is continental and white wines dominate
production.
are many wineries but
very few make premium wines
with a high price tag. EU entry
could possibly give the country’s
winemakers a boost and eventually we may get to enjoy some of
the best wines Croatian has to offer here in Scandinavia. The potential for quality is there, both in
is the coastal
region that includes offshore islands, and enjoys a varied Mediterranean climate. This region is also
divided into several sub-regions
- Istria and Dalmatia - which in
turn are divided into smaller districts. Several of the most notable
are located on the islands of Hvar
Today, there
The country
Primorska Hrvatska
and Korcula and on the Peljesac
peninsula . The vineyards of this
coastal region dominate with local
grape varieties in the hundreds,
such as the common blue Plavac
Mali and green Posip . In addition
to wine, they produce olive oil and
salt on the Peljesac peninsula, and
there is also a significant number
of oyster farms.
Frano MILOS
From picturesque Ston, with its
five kilometre long stone wall (a
fortification of historical significance), we drive to Milos’ vineyards in the bright sunshine and
summer heat. When we arrive
at the steep, rocky vineyard situated at high altitude, there is a
pleasant wind that fans us and
the temperature is naturally lower
>>>
13
than down in the valley. Light,
sunshine, heat and the winds
from the sea, and the mountains
to the west and the north makes
the area ideal for organic farming. Mildew poses no threat and
there’s no need for spraying. The
ground is stony, rich in limestone,
and well drained. There are both
old and newly erected stone walls
along the terraces to prevent erosion. Frano Milos owns 15 hectares with vines solely focused
up Plavac Mali. Some of these
were planted by Milos’s forebears. Plavac Mali is indigenous
to the southern Dalmatian coast
The village of Kingston with the
part of the wall visible in the background
and islands. Frano produces dry,
semi-dry, semi-sweet and sweet
wines from a hybrid grape which
is a cross between Crljenac and
Dobricic; both of these are local
varieties. Plavac Mali needs a lot
of sun and heat to ripen and the
thick skin protects it against intense sunshine and provides a lot
of concentrated colour, tannins,
and aromas.
The wines of this
grape give, at best,
very good aging potential. Frano
intervenes as little as possible
in the vineyard and strives only
wishes to develop his ancestor’s
Maturing Plavac Mali
ideal which is to harvest as fresh
and concentrated grapes as is possible. Biodiversity is clear through
numerous medicinal herbs (from
which the family produces special
teas) and many different animal
species, which is an important
part of Milos’s organic farming
philosophy. The winery is located
in the village of Ponikve were traditionally they use only old, large
barrels of Slovenian oak. Never
new oak, and never small casks, so
the character of the grape dominates. Milos also produces olive
oil from his own plantations of
Oblic and Past Rica varieties.
Frano Milos´s cellar
TIP
The Croatian coast is well worth a visit with its many islands. Many of the towns and villages are well kept and
quite beautiful. Dubrovnik is the jewel in the crown with
its medieval stone wall that embraces the old town with
its streets and shiny cobblestones. A visit to Lokrum Island, 20 minutes by boat from the port, is worth the effort.
The city was severely bombed during the war, but has
been reconstructed and renovated and is now on the UNESCO world heritage map. It’s more expensive here than
in the surrounding villages, but by Swedish standards is
most affordable. D’ Vino Wine Bar has a great range of
wines, a good selection of appetizers and if you buy one
with the wine you will pay regular Cash-and-Carry prices.
The Restaurant 360 degrees has lovely terrace, overlooking
the harbour where, in the evenings, you can sit beneath
the stars .The wine is from well-established wineries; in addition to Frano Milos there is Roxanich from Istria, Grgich
from the island of Korcula, and Zlatan Otok from Hvar.
>>>
14
the tasting
2012 ROSÉ
The new Franos wine selection, where premium
fruit of Plavac Mali grown
on high altitude vineyards, is used. Beautiful
and intense cherry-red
colour with strong aromas of fruit, minerality
and stony clay predominate. The palate is structured, with fresh acidity,
focused, full-bodied and
concentrated with minerality. The aftertaste is
long, elegant and balanced. Perfect
with grilled fish, roasted potatoes
and browned butter.
2009 PLAVAC
Basic wines of Plavac Mali
are styled as a premium
wines fermented with wild
yeasts and stored in large,
old Slovenian oak barrels.
Unfiltered and with minimal sulphur added.
It has a medium intensity
appearance with a ruby
red hue and grenadinetinged edge. The aroma is
fresh and clean with spice
and red berries. The palate
displays minerals and herbs with a
firm structure and tannin without being too aggressive. Pleasant and balanced in alcohol. Very harmonious.
An ‘everyday wine’ that can be served
chilled to accompany cheese or other
snacks.
2006 STAGNUM
Frano Milos’s pride. These
grapes are grown in 30-year
old terraced vineyard location. Wild yeast fermentation and large old Slovenian oak barrels contribute to
a fine end result. The wine
is unfiltered with minimal
sulphur added. Deep red
hue with developed, broad
grenadine-coloured edge.
The aromas are developed,
deep, complex, spicy and
herbaceous with dark fruit. The palate
is fruit-driven with noticeable alcohol,
still nicely integrated into the whole.
The texture is silky with ripe tannins
and balanced acidity. Hints of rosemary, licorice, allspice and mineral is
clear and experienced in layers. The
overall impression remains, which despite its youthfulness, reveals the further aging potential. A long aftertaste.
With such power and complexity, the
wine will pair well with slow-cooked
lamb, mushrooms, herbs and artichoke.
2003 STAGNUM
This vintage was very hot
in Europe and Frano was
extremely pleased with the
result. The wine was stored
for 5 years before bottling.
It has a ruby-red hue with
grenadine-coloured halo
around the core. The aroma is ripe with secondary
aromas of leather, tobacco
and spices. The mouth feel
is soft and ripe with tones
of fruit, mineral, tobacco and herbs.
The structure is noticeably steady with
marked but fine-boned tannins. Alcohol is integrated and balanced. The
aftertaste is long and harmonious. This
wine is great on its own, but goes well
with wild meat with mushrooms, root
vegetables or a mature cheese.
2007 STAGNUM
HALVSÖT
2007 STAGNUM
DESSERT WINE
Made of very ripe grapes
and residual sugar of 16
grams per liter. Deep rubyred hue. Aromas of licorice,
delicious cherries in chocolate, woody tones & pine. It
is intensely fruity on the palate, with a fresh acidity, tannin and balanced sweetness.
The aftertaste is long and
concentrated with little animal tones. Enjoyable with chocolate
that has a high cocoa content.
The fruit for this sweet wine
with 100 grams/l of residual
sugar is allowed to dry on the
vine as long as the weather
permits. They are then hung
up in a special room for a
further 2 months. The grapes
are then pressed in the timehonoured way by foot, and
after fermentation the wine
is stored in large, old oak barrels. Medium intensity ruby-red colour
tending towards grenadine. The aroma
is complex, smoky, with some minerality and hints of blue cheese. The taste is
slim and elegant despite the sugar but
overall balanced thanks to the slender
tannin structure. The acidity expresses
a certain freshness and the aftertaste is
an explosion of cherries.
The wine is a dessert in itself.
15
.
16
natural harmony
in southern german winemaking
PHOTO: Anne-Marie Canemyr
There is an exciting development occurring in the viniculture industry of Southern Germany with
the focus predominantly on Riesling. A number of producers are investing in the production of
biodynamic and organic wines.
established in
the Swedish market, but a number of smaller producers are now
looking for importers to take their
drier Rieslings into northern Europe.
Many are already
of these
wines can, at times, be difficult to
understand, but here is their VDP
classification:
The new classification
is the introductory
level to the quality division of premium wine producers. The grapes
VDP.GUTSWEIN
come from their own vineyards
and are managed according to the
strict standards required by the
VDP.
duced under optimal conditions
with no loss of quality for many
years. Only established regional
grapes may be used.
(local Wine) comes
from the best vineyards in a specific geographical area and contains only typical regional grape
varieties.
(High Grade)
consists of specially selected wines
from German vineyards of the
highest quality. Special terroir –
awarded for the environment and
optimal maturation, naturally
with quality-controlled regional
grape varieties that befit each winery best.
VDP ORTSWEIN
VDP ERSTE LAGE (1st class) come
from premium vineyards with
their own distinct character and
where fine wines have been pro-
VDP GROSSE LAGE
>>>
17
pretty easy to understand! Not always. We have visited a number of these producers
along the southern Rhine to try the
products and examine the extent to
which the production is either biodynamic or organic.
Well that seems
They all have one thing in common; they want to produce wines
of the highest quality without any
additives or pesticides being used.
Many go even further and use
plantings of different flowers and
herbs to achieve a balance in the
vineyards. Managed in this way,
they entice insects and birdlife
that take care of any parasites and
diseases that should not be there.
A diversity of bees and butterflies
are not only a feast for the eyes but
also for the vineyards. Some producers with slightly more difficult
conditions on steep slopes like to
use horses instead of machines and
thus have extra organic material to
enhance soil health.
The really biodynamic farmers use
cow horn mixed with cow dung.
This is dug into the soil when the
moon is in the right place at rate of
4 horns per hectare.
>>>
18
Whether or not this is effective,
we leave it up to the consumer to
decide, but we can conclude that
Rieslings from southern Germany
are very dry.
wines produced here are also sold But let’s start in
on the domestic market. With a Rheinhessen
few exceptions, they include The
Weingut Brüder Dr. Becker
Weingut Christmann which is already in great demand on the Scan- This a traditional biodynamic
grower who strictly follows the esdinavian market.
How will they promote these wines
tablished rules of Rudolf Steiner,
on the domestic market? The style
who is the ancestor of growers in
of this white wine has changed over
Vienna who spread their ideas at
the last few years, and most of the
the beginning of the last century.
11 Hectare in total. One of the first
organic producers in the 70’s.
www.brueder-dr-becker.de
Weingut Brüder Dr. Becker
>>>
19
Weingut Wittman
Classified as biodynamic since
2003. 25 Ha. Riesling and Pinot
Blanc. Producing a total of 150 to
200,000 bottles a year. 60% of production goes to domestic markets
and 40 % is exported.
www.wittmannweingut.com
>>>
20
Weingut Sander
Weingut Sander
Weingut Weinreich
A total of 25 ha. 250,000 bottles
per year. 85% sold on the domestic market and 15% is exported.
75% are white wines.
16 ha. 120,000 bottles a year.
80% sold on the domestic market,
20 % is exported.
Runs a restaurant business.
www.weingut-sander.de
www.weinreich-wein.de
Then we head down to The Rhineland Pfaltz region
>>>
Weingut Weinreich
21
Weingut Christmann
They have been Biodynamic growers since 2002, producing 140,000
bottles per year with a tradition
of making dry wines. As early as
1907 Riesling from the Pfaltz was
as costly as Bordeaux wines in restaurants in England for example.
40% is currently exported (mostly
to Sweden) and 60% consumed on
the premises.
Weingut Christmann
www.weingut-christmann.se
Weingut Pflüger
20 ha at the present time and a
production of 160,000 bottles per
year. 1970 saw the start of the transition to organic farming. 2010 Alexander took over from his father.
Today they are one of the few who
use horses on the vineyard slopes,
principally because they are so
steep but also to get a natural supply of manure.
www.pflueger-wein.de
>>>
Weingut Pflüger
w w w.vinlusenab.se
22
Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
Weingut Dr. Bürklin-Wolf
Hofgut Ruppertsberg
85 ha and 130,000 bottles a year.
1995 began the transition to organic wine production.
A restaurant offering organically
grown food and wine.
“In Germany we are waking up
our own terroir,” says Tom Benns
. In 2005 25 hectares was organic
but the volume is increasing year
by year.”
Culinary delicacies of a high standard, with premium quality wines.
www.dashofgut.com
www.buerklin-wolf.de
Hofgut Ruppertsberg
further west towards
the Middle Rhine and Geisenheim.
Time to drive
>>>
Fine Wines från Italen!
Se själv på www.wineoclock.se
Att beställa vin från Wine O´clock är helt lagligt och
bekymmersfritt. Sedan juni 2007 kan svenskar beställa vin från utlandet och få det hemlevererat. Svensk
Alkoholskatt och moms är redan inkluderat i priset.
23
At the Geisenheim Research Institute, we met Professor Dr. R andolf K auer
Geisenheim Research Institute, we met Professor Dr. Randolf Kauer who is responsible for
education and research on organic
wine. The institute has a reputation
for being the foremost research
and educational facility in Europe
in the cultivation and production
of organic wines. They have several hectares of experimental vines
At the
growing, which has been developed
extensively by the students themselves. ”The Farm as an organism”
and “Body, soul and wine” are two
Rudolf Steiner sayings that are often quoted here.
name of the organization
that works towards establishing
global guidelines for organic wine
production.
IFOM is the
production must
come from within if it is to function at all,” concludes Dr.Randolf.
“Organic wine
Mr. Ralph Dejas, CEO
of ECOVIN the largest German
association of organic farmers in
Germany.
We also met
>>>
24
Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn
Weingut Peter Jakob Kühn
Have been biodynamic growers for
10 years. He points out how important the moon phase is at harvest time. He also spreads 10 tons
of cow manure per hectare.
www.weingutpjkuehn.de
Weingut Ankermühle
A very high-class restaurant serving
their own wines, which was widely
used throughout the conference.
www.ankermuehle.de
>>>
25
Time for us to move on to Wiesbaden
for the start of this year’s sales and
to taste over 420 wines from the
2012 vintage.
www.vdp.de/en/vdp-die-praedikatsweingueter
time for a visit to Lorch
im Eheingau.
We also had
We also had time for a visit to Lorch im Eheingau
In conclusion, we want to emphasize that there is a big change going
on here in southern Germany. Not
only in terms of production, but
more as a result of organic production which is resulting in a very interesting development in the marketplace. For premium dry Riesling
wines.
Weingut Graf von Kanitz
Weingut Graf von K anitz
Wine has been produced here since
12th century. Not hard to believe
when you see all the old castles along
the steep banks that flank the river
Rhine.
The future and effects of climate
change will dictate what happens
next. Today, 7.1% or 6,900 Ha,
are under organic production in
Germany. How many will there be
tomorrow?
Weingut von Kanitz has 14 Ha of
vines and produces 75,000 bottles
a year.
Member of ECOVIN since 1991.
The head winemaker is Ian Kolbert.
www.weingut-graf-von-kanitz.de
26
Les Cailloux
Châteauneuf-du-Pape
2010
Art.nr. 79121
299 kr
Alc.5 % vol.
Producent: Lucien et André Brunel
Parker: 93 poäng
www.bravin.se
Alkohol är
beroendeframkallande
27
garden wines with
body and soul
PHOTO: DMZ
text britt karlsson PHOTO per karlsson, bkwine.com
Welcome to the DeMorgenzon
family in Stellenbosch, South Africa. Here, at 200-400 meters
above sea level, with magnificent views over Cape Town and Table Mountain, the Atlantic
and Indian oceans, lies the family Appelbaums Garden Wine Vineyards.
>>>
28
elevated position
here on the eastern and southern slopes of the Ribbokoop valley, we get the morning sun here
first. Hence the name DeMorgenzon – meaning ‘the morning sun’
in Dutch. And it is here in the
various micro-climate zones that
Grenache, Syrah and Mourvérdre
grapes thrive best and make up
the basis of the Rhone blend that
we create here,” says Carl van der
“Thanks to our
Merwe, chief winemaker at DeMorgenzon, as he makes a grand,
sweeping gesture with his hand.
In the early 1700’s
they were cultivating grapes of high quality here.
And the conditions that created
wines with a taste of the old world
were probably one of the reasons
why Wendy and Hylton Appelbaum bought the DeMorgenzon
property in 2003.
>>>
29
plan to create a biological diversity and immediately
they set about transforming the
vineyard. Within a few years they
reached their objective - wild flowers and herbs were allowed to flourish between the vines in the soils of
Oakleaf and Tukula, providing the
very best conditions for producing
DMZ Concerto wine. The varieties
growing on the 60 hectares were
specifically selected as being suitable for the microclimate here.
They had a
The name Concerto was given to the
wine for a simple, yet special, reason.
”At the end of the ripening process,
you give your grapes an extra dose
of music. But not just any old music. It has to be Baroque, and the
fruit responds to the music with
body and soul; this living organism is affected during the course of
maturation,” Carl continues convincingly.
This method of playing music to the
vines in the vineyards is also practiced in Italy and areas of South
America with great success.
of nature and the harmony of the music obviously gives
the fruit both body and spirit,
Wendy and Hylton are careful to
point out.
The harmony
>>>
30
both the terroir and
the body. It makes the wine flavourful, nuanced and balanced, with
the character of ripe plums, spices,
black pepper, violets and oak. “
“You can sense
12 months in French
oak casks also leaves an impression on the palate. The aim has
been to make an elegant wine in
a New World style that is a little
Storing for
fruitier, and combine it with Old
World elegance, thus providing a
structured and elegant wine for
the world market.
>>>
VINBANKEN
31
“ Our total production is about
500,000 bottles a year and our
main markets today are South Africa, USA, Holland and Belgium.
The Scandinavian will grow. To answer your question of which wine
is particularly suited to the food?
Why not elk steak with chanterelle
sauce, or beef Provençale, “ they say
with a smile.
provides the best of
both worlds and offers an experience that is out of the ordinary for
anyone visiting. Try the wine at
DeMorgenzon in Stellenbosch!
DMZ Concerto
Facts:
DMZ Concerto
Red wine in bottle
Area WO Stellenbosch, South Africa
Item nr in Sweden: 3156-01
Vintage 2012
Alcohol content 14.5%
Acid 5.60 g / l
Sugar 2:00 g / l
Price at the Systembolaget in Sweden: 119: Swedish Crowns (750ml)
Världspremiär för En Värld av Vin på nätet
All världens vinländer, regioner, viner och producenter i en dator nära dig.
Registrera dig gratis på www.envarldavvin.se. Välkommen hälsar Mikael Mölstad.
32
”bästa
mousserande
vin 2012”
en
finns äv ka
as
l
f
lv
a
h
på
65:-
”mest
champagnelika
mousserande
vinerna och
avsevärt
bättre”
RöttoRps bästa
mousseRande vineR
FYND!
”matigt bubbel
med intensiv
koncentration”
köp!
”fyndpris för
så mycket
kvalitet”
Pongrácz Brut
12%VoL, Art.nr 7628
750ML 109Kr / 375ML 65Kr
www.janake.se
Alkohol i samband med
arbete ökar risken för olyckor.
33
wine production on
four continents
PHOTO: Ove Canemyr/Hess Family Estate
Donald Hess has created an empire. His portfolio includes not only wine
but also real estate and modern art.
The empire is controlled from its HQ in Bern, Switzerland. Christoph J. Ehrbar, CEO of HESS Holdings, is also responsible for Peter Lehman in Australia
and Colomé in South America, which are two of the continents. The others
are The Hess Collection Winery in California and Glen Carlou in South Africa.
All of them are headed up by Timothy Persson. Both Christoph and Timothy
are married to Donald Hess and Ursula’s daughters.
Christoph.J.Ehrbar
>>>
34
you decided to make
wine in 4 different parts of the
world?” The question goes to
Christoph .
“Why have
being in the best locations on the continents where
opportunities exist to develop each
grape variety and thus increase the
potential to make better and better fine wines,” says Christoph .
“We have logistical considerations
to make over all of our different
markets within the organisation
and the majority of our sales are
made domestically, even if all our
wines are naturally exported to
“It’s all about
various parts of the world. We
have achieved a total sales increase
of 15% in recent years.”
The purely commercial part of
the business is secured by HESS
Holdings, which provides protection for the real estate and the
world-renowned art collection.
Donald Hess has also opened his
own museums with the art being
displayed in different parts of the
world where HESS Holdings operate.
if there will be more
continents of the Empire in the
future, the answer was:
When asked
“There are of course
major markets
in the making in the vicinity of
where we are located today, so certain evolution make take place in
that direction in the future,” says
Christoph with a smile.
at
one of the continents where
HESS Family
Estates are already in place.
South America,
specifically ArThibaut Delmotte
gentina, where
oenologist Thibault Delmotte is
Let’s
look
>>>
Amalaya Winery Argentina
35
Barossa landscape
Glen Carlou Winery SA
Old Barossa Shiraz Vine
responsible for the production of
Bodega Colomes´s wines for the
South American portfolio.
high altitudes, in the
shadow of the Andes, we have a
problem with drought in that
rain doesn’t flow down into the
valley very often, so you have to
rely on the river that runs through
the valley. Vineyard El Arenal, at
2,600 m above sea level, was the
first vineyard to planted by Donald Hess in 1999.
“Here in the
Colome Winery
involved in organic
farming, you shouldn’t irrigate too
much, so it is important to store
water in a dam so it’s always on
hand when you need it. There are,
of course, many birds and other
insects that help maintain balance
in the vineyards, so there’s no need
for pesticides and spraying.”
“When you’re
we face is with ants.
They are necessary, but they can
do more harm than good if there
are too many. Currently, intensive
efforts are underway to solve this
problem, which is by no means
unique in the production of organic wines, no matter where you
are in the world.”
“One problem
Thibault is very careful to describe
just how important balance in the
vineyard is, to get the high quality
fruit needed to supply premium
wines from Colomé.
>>>
36
Glen Carlou Vineyards SA
FACTS:
Argentina
South Africa
AMALAYA Tinto Calchaqui Valley
AMALAYA Blanco Calchaqui Valley
COLOMÉ Estate Malbec Calchaqui Valley
COLOMÉ Estate Torrontés Calchaqui Valley
GLEN CARLOU Chardonnay, Paarl
GLEN CARLOU Quartz Stone Chardonnay, Paarl
GLEN CARLOU Grand Classique, Paarl
GLEN CARLOU Gravel Quarry Cabernet Sauvignon, Paarl
Australia
California
HESS Select Chardonnay, Monterey
HESS Select Cabernet Sauvignon, North Coast
ARTEZIN Zinfandel Mendocino County
THE HESS COLLECTION 19 Block Cuvée Mount Veeder
THE HESS COLLECTION Chardonnay Napa Valley Su´skol
Vineyard
SEQUANA Dutton Ranch Pinot Noir, Green Valley of
Russian River
SEQUANA Sundawg Ridge Pinot Noir, Green Valley of
Russian River
PETER LEHMANN Portrait Cabernet Sauvignon,
Barossa Valley
PETER LEHMANN Portrait Shiraz, Barossa Valley
PETER LEHMANN Portrait Eden Valley Dry Riesling
PETER LEHMANN Layers Red, Barossa Valley
PETER LEHMANN Layers White, Adelaide Hills
PETER LEHMANN Clancy´s Red, Barossa Valley
PETER LEHMANN Mentor Cabernet Sauvignon,
Barossa Valley
PETER LEHMANN Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley
37
GULD.
IGEN.
De 30 vinrecensenterna
har sagt sitt: För andra året
i rad är Vila Santa Reserva
”Årets Röda Box” enligt
Allt om vin.
Vila Santa Reserva 2011 Portugal, 14 % vol Box, 3 liter, Art.Nr. 12507, 269 kr
Alkohol i samband med arbete
ökar risken för olyckor.
38
la chablisienne
Text & PHOTO Sofia Ander
“For us three hundred feet is nothing, but for Chablis it means everything!” Hervé Tucki, Brand
Ambassador, explained as he greeted us on our visit to La Chablisienne winery. “The soil here is
very complex and multi-dimensional. It is not so important what’s on top, but rather what lies
below the surface” he continues.
Burgundy in
France. From Burgundy to Chablis suddenly seems quite easy with
only white wine and a few premier
cru and grand cru to keep track of.
Of course it is much more complex than one might expect.
We are touring
Chablis itself consists of 6,800
hectares, 4,700 of which are in
grapes. La Chablisenne accounts for
approximately 1,200 acres, or 25%
of the region’s total production.
be a big undertaking
for a single winery or private vineyard. But for La Chablisienne this
is not a problem - it is a large cooperative, comprising more than
300 members.
This would
in 1923 during the
great depression. Europe was in
the throes of an economic crisis;
the wine industry in particular. A
It was started
number of winemakers decided to
join forces, making it easier to sell
their wines.
continued for
approximately 25 years. Members
gave their wines to La Chablisienne, who in turn took care of sales
to wholesalers and retail outlets.
This arrangement
Over time, La Chablisenne wanted
to make their make their own
wine and started buying fruit
>>>
39
from growers, and this business
arrangement continues to the present day.
La Chablisienne produces wines from
six of the seven Grand Cru estates,
which own most of Grenouille. It
also boasts the beautiful Château
Grenouille, where the winery holds
tastings and dinners. A beautiful
setting, it is surrounded by vineyards, and the Serien River which
flows through Chablis is also home
to lots and lots of frogs. Grenouille
is French for ‘frog’.
different wines produced in Grenouille. Le Fief de
Grenouilles, grown in clay and
limestone, it is aged one year on
lees in both oak barrels and steel
tanks.
There are two
comes
from rigorously selected grapes
from old vines. It is an intense
wine that cellars well.
The
Château
Grenouille
La Chablisienne owns 7.2
acres of land here, more than any
other winery in Chablis.
In all,
opinion on using oak
casks?” I ask.
“What´s your
“We like to use oak barrels, but
only to highlight and accentuate
the wine, not disguise or hide it,”
says Hervé.
All the wines are characterised by a
fine minerality and crispness, but
also good body and roundness.
take prededence over muscles with Chablis.
Especially in La Chablisienne.
Finesse and elegance
>>>
40
The seven Grand Cru
estates
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Les Clos
Les Preuses
Blanchot
Vaudesir
Grenouilles
Valmur
Blanchot
La Chablisenne produces over 30
white wines, ranging from Petit
Chablis to Grand Cru. Here is a
selection and their recent vintages.
Petit Chablis 2012
Classic Petit with fresh acidity, freshness, fine minerality and
lovely citrus tones.
Chablis La Peirrelée 2011
Chablis Premier Cru
Fourchaume 2011
An enticing wine with well-integrated oak and a lovely touch of spice.
Chablis Premier Cru
Vaulorent 2011
A well-rounded wine with a little
more body than usual. This wine
is something of an experiment
and a project for the new winemaker (who joined in 2011) who
allowed it to rest longer on less in
the barrel.
Vaulorent is adjacent to the Grand
Cru estate Les Preuses. This wine
is big and delicious, well-rounded
in its complexity, with hints of
spicy oak and delicate nuances of
yellow stone fruits.
Chablis Les Venerables Old
Vines 2011
Chablis Premier Cru Montée
de Tonnerre 2011
Young and tight at the present
time, but displaying good minerality and acidity in the background.
More austere than the previous
wines. Nevertheless it offers freshness, good acidity and slightly
peppery finish.
2011 was also a fine and settled
year, with wines that can be drunk
today but will also benefit from
cellaring.
Chablis Premier Cru La
Singuliere 2011
Chablis Grand Cru Les
Preuses 2010
Fresh, with good concentration and
hints of smokiness, green apples and
citrus.
2012 was a rainy and cold year,
with a meagre harvest.
Chablis Premier Cru
Vaillons 2011
A young wine; the oak is not yet
integrated. Stylish and elegant,
with pleasant crunchy tones and
yellow stone fruit.
2013 looks to be better, after a
sluggish start to the summer.
Complex with delicious fruit, smoky
with a minerality. Focused with
strong hints of yellow stoned fruit
and apples.
2009 was a warmer vintage which
gave us fruitier wines, ready to be
drunk relatively early.
2010 was an outstanding year,
with good acidity and a long life.
Chablis Grand Cru Château
Grenouille 2010
A very elegant and complex wine
from a fine 2010 vintage. Young
but already focused, with strong
hints of citrus, a little oak, spice
and toasted hazelnuts.
41
Hälften av alla som drunknar har alkohol i kroppen
42
43
changes at
systembolaget
Sweden’s state-owned off-license Chain, the Systembolaget, is increasing its emphasis on
consumer information in stores. This coincides with the introduction of their new range.
One of those responsible for drafting the new material is Hanna Frändh-Samuelsson . We
met at the Systembolaget’s retail outlet on Nybrogatan in downtown Stockholm for her to
explain what drove this decision.
“The new model has been in place
for the past year,” Hanna told me.
“We’ve been testing new ways of
presenting our products as well as
offering new information,”
things, there are
brochures pertaining to a variety of red and white wines, beers
and spirits and suitable pairing
with food. In this way staff can
help customers with recipe ideas,
which they take home along with
their other purchases.
Amongst other
it easier for everyone
working in the stores, because
here are the answers to many of
the questions customers usually
ask us,” says Hanna.
“This makes
are lots of and lots
of great recipes; they are really getting a bargain!”
“Actually, there
the stores has been
changed making it easier for customers to find their way around.
Countries are in alphabetical order, with the shelves well flagged.
Stock is displayed according to
The layout in
>>>
44
price. In this way, one can easily find a wine in the 100 Swedish
crown class (€10).
It is also easy to find wine, beer and
spirits on the shelves by following
the colour codes displayed around
the shops. These are the same colour codes for product groups that
were previously used in catalogues.
This new setup also makes it easier
for customers to find the more expensive wines, as they are now also
on display on the shelves.
that in the long term this
will help increase the consumption of the better premium wines,
something that will hopefully benefit everyone.
It is hoped
Time will tell whether the new transition is a success or not. The aim
of increasing customer awareness
instore is in line with what is happening in the major supermarket
chains in the country.
45
the autumn budget
promises raised taxes
text: Christopher Jarnvall
The Christian Democrat Party (who are part of a 4 party coalition) managed to push through
its demand to raise taxes on alcohol in this year’s autumn budget. It means a price increase
of 2 Swedish Crowns per bottle of wine and 40 öre on a bottle of beer. The spirits will only
increase marginally. This increase corresponds to a 7% increase on beer and wine while the
tax on spirits will go up by only 1%. It is estimated that government income will be boosted
by 730 million Swedish Crowns more per annum (€83.8 mill).
With a record-high Swedish crown,
especially against the Euro, those
halcyon days will become even
sweeter for German retailers along
the border with Scandinavia. It
wouldn’t be surprising if illegal
imports of alcohol becomes even
more profitable and increases in
volume. Already ‘vodka cars’ are
on the increase - cruising around,
selling indiscriminately to young
revelers. It’s a lucrative business
for criminal networks, where the
illegal alcohol trade is often a part
of a larger operation.
We all know what the position is;
nevertheless the Minister responsible is not particularly worried
that the increased taxes will lead
to increased smuggling. She argues that the Swedes have more
money to spend, hence the tax
increase.
>>>
46
Anders Borg, Chancellor of the
Exchequer, is satisfied. Unfortunately the Swedish alcohol policy
is not so much about social considerations but more about boosting the state’s coffers. Swedes may
actually have no difficulty in gaining access to alcohol despite the
government’s intentions, but the
Treasury is well aware that you
can’t raise taxes too much. If you
tighten the screws too much, legal
consumption will drop off.
- particularly young
people – will find ways to get hold
of cheaper alcohol. The “Vodka
Express” is open 24 hours a day,
seven days a week!
Many others
– everyone from the
temperance movement to the beer,
wine and spirits industry – are all
agreed that trading illegally in alcohol is evil, but proposed remedies vary. The industry itself advocates lower taxes and therefore
lower prices to restore commercial
volume to the legal market. The
temperance movement does not
want to sacrifice traditional Swedish alcohol policy but suggest that
the illegal market be combated by
increasing resources to the CusMany people
toms and Excise authorities and
the police force.
some effect, but
only in part. Sweden is not an
isolated island; it is positioned in
the middle of Europe’s traffic flow
and is, along with Norway, a very
profitable market for smugglers.
The smuggling won’t stop at our
borders. This is the reality we resigned ourselves to in 1995 when
we joined the EU.
This could have
Despite these increased taxes,
enough people will continue to
buy their alcohol legally, which
means 730 million Swedish
crowns- to the exchequer!
Why Is this then?
Well 730 million Swedish crowns
a year is not exactly peanuts. The
Chancellor’s original idea was to
raise taxes on beer and wine by
13% and on spirits by five percent. The Treasury Department
was made aware of the risks of doing this and these were highlighted by the high-profile crackdown
on smugglers from Germany and
Denmark into Sweden with cars
stuffed to the gunnels. In addi-
tion, a recently published HUI
report outlines the dangers of raising the price on alcohol too much.
The parties in the governing Alliance have differing opinions on
raising the tax. The Christian
Democrats and Liberals have been
in favour of a raise, usually citing
the effects of alcohol on public
health. However, the Conservatives, and particularly the Center
party held back, primarily to
study the implications for crossborder shopping, before deciding
upon a possible tax increase.
take into account the
rest of the world on this matter.
The Euro is at a record low level
compared to the Swedish crown
and the fact that Denmark recently lowered its beer tax as a counter-measure to the influx of German beer and to protect the Danish brewing industry all makes
it rather attractive to would-be
smugglers. This naturally concerns those who want an increase
in alcohol tax.
Sweden must
No radical decisions will be taken
in Sweden, at least not until a general election looms on the horizon.
47
N yhet !
Nu på Systembolagets hyllor
Le Bertille Rosso di
Montepulciano 2011
Artikel nummer 2380-01
Pris: 98 kr
Importör: VINLUSEN AB
www.vinlusenab.se
Alkohol är
beroendeframkallande
48
Våra medlemmar
Altia Sweden AB
Box 271 44, 115 28 Stockholm
115 28 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8) -557 790 00
Email: [email protected]
Homepage: www.altia.se
Berntson Brands
Torsgatan 13
111 23 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-610 06 90
Fax: +46 (8)-610 06 99
Homepage: www.berntsonbrands.se
Arcus Sweden AB
Birger Jarlsgatan 20
114 34 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8) -545 534 30
Fax +46 (8)-545 534 39
Homepage: www.arcus.no
Bergs Vinhandel
Skalldalsvägen 47
436 52 Hovås
Tel: +46 760002350
Email: marcus@bergsvinhandel.
Homepage: www.bergsvinhandel.se
Arvid Nordquist Vin och Sprithandel
Ekensbergsvägen 117
Box 1285
171 25 Solna
Tel: +46 (8)-799 18 00
Fax: +46 (8)-29 60 99
Homepage: www.arvid-nordquist.se
Bacardi AB
Wallingatan 2
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: 0+46 (8) - 566 480 00
E:mail: [email protected],
Homepage: www.bacardi.se
Backafallsbyn AB/ Spirits of Hven
Norreborgsvägen 55
260 13 Sankt Ibb
Tel: +46 (418) 44 99 99
Homepage: www.backafallsbyn.se,
www.hven.se
Bergslagens Destilleri
Pettersbergsvägen 2A
703 69 Örebro
Tel: +46 733 189 000
Homepage:
www.bergslagensdestilleri.se
Bibendum
Sandhamnsgatan 63
115 28 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-598 110 00
Homepage: www.bibendum.se
Bornicon & Salming AB
Holländargatan 17
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-32 02 20
Fax: +46 (8)-32 02 10
Homepage: www.bornicon-salming.se
Box Destilleri AB
Box Kraftverk 140
1872 96 Bjärtrå
Tel: +46 (70)552 78 28
Homepage: www.boxwhisky.se
Caro Vin AB
Box 24 005
104 50 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8)-505 515 00
Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96
Homepage: www.carovin.se
Cezar Group
Margaretetorp
266 98 Hjärnarp
Tel: +46 (431)-45 46 20
Fax: +46 (431)-45 46 44
Homepage: www.cezargroup.com
Concha Y Toro
Birger Jarlsgatan 2
114 34 Stockholm
Tel: +48 (8)- 505 667 60
Fax: +46 (8)- 505 65 299
Homepage: www.cytsweden.se
DIAGEO SWEDEN AB
St Eriksgatan 46A
Box 49 159
1oo 29 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-508 820 00
Fax: +46 (8)-729 00 49
Homepage: www.diageo.com
Darom AB Spirits & Liqueurs
Elbegatan 4-6
211 20 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40) 782 50
Homepage: www.darom.se
Domaine Wines & Spirits AB
Holländargatan 20
111 60 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-20 61 00
Homepage: www.domaine.se
>>>
49
Edrington Sweden AB
Luntmakargtan 45
102 47 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-440 83 00
Fax: +46 (8)-20 87 80
Homepage: www.edrington.se
Fondberg Sweden
Linnégatan 87D
115 23 Stockholm Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 555 292 00
Homepage: www.fondberg.se
Grythyttan Whisky
Ekeberg
705 98 Lillkyrka
Tel: +46 (19) 761 79 00
Homepage: www.grythyttanwhisky.se
Giertz Vinimport AB
Bredgränd 2
111 30 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-21 83 88
Fax: +46 (8)-21 33 82
Homepage: www.giertz.se
Granqvist Vinagentur AB
Vulcanön, Vulcans Väg 1
522 30 TIDAHOLM
Tel: +46 (502)-148 88
Fax: +46 (502)-158 88
Homepage: www.granqvist-vin.se
Handpicked wines
Prinz väg 19
142 66 Trångsund
Tel: +46 (8)-510 691 00
Homepage:
www.handpickedwines.se
Heba Food and Beverages AB
Box 142
372 22 Ronneby
Tel: +46 (457)-240 85
Fax: +46(457)-206 20
Homepage: www.heba.se
Heering
Regeringsgatan 111
Box 73 27, 103 90, Stockholm
Tel: +(8) 412 60 40
Homepage: www.heering.com
Henkell & Co
Hangövägen 29, positionen 4
115 42 Stockholm
Tel: +(8) 120 90 400
Homepage: www.henkell-sverige.se
Hermansson & Co
Sturegatan 6
Tel: +46 (8)-587 410 80
Fax: +46 (8)-587 410 89
Homepage: www.hermanssonco.se
Juvinum AB
Frihamnen, Magasin 6, uppg 2, 4 tr
115 56 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-663 18 81
Fax: +46 (8)-663 18 83
Kanon AB
Sågkärrsvägen 20
647 51 Åkers Stycke bruk
Tel: 0159-800 300
E-post: [email protected]
Hemsida:
www.gripsholmdistillery.com
Kiviks Musteri AB
Karakås
277 35 Kivik
Tel: +46 (414) - 719 00
Email:[email protected]
Homepage: www.akessonvin.se,
www.kiviksmusteri.se
LO Smith
Blombergs Säteri
533 93 Källby
Tel: +46 (0)- 510 54 20 14
Homepage: www.losmith.se
LO Smith
Blombergs Säteri
533 93 Källby
Tel: +46 (0)- 510 54 20 14
Homepage: www.losmith.se
Mackmyra Svensk Whisky
Hantverkargatan 5, hus 5
112 21 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-5560 25 80
Homepage: www.mackmyra.se
Malmköpings Nya Spritbolag
Landsvägsgatan 3
642 60 Malmköping
Tel: +46 157 201 90
Homepage: www.malmasb.se
Miguel Torres Sverige AB
Kungsgatan 87
112 27 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-545 833 91
Homepage: www.torres.se
Modern Wines AB
Linnegatan 87 D
Box 27225
102 53 Stockholm
Tel +46 (8)-10 33 66
Homepage: www.modernwines.se
NO1 Brands
Getingevägen 12
461 65 Trollhättan
Tel +46 (520)-48 05 40
Fax +46 (520)- 48 05 44
Homepage: www.no1.se
NIGAB
Energigatan 12
Box 10296, 434 23 Kungsbacka
Tel: +46 (300)-180 20
Fax: +46 (300)-121 53
Homepage: www.nigab.se
>>>
50
Oenoforos AB
Tel +46 (8)-651 09 95
Fax +46 (8)-651 09 96
Homepage: www.oenoforos.se
Pernod Ricard Sweden AB
Årstaängsvägen 19A
117 97 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-744 70 00
Email:
[email protected]
Homepage:
www.pernod-ricard-sweden.com
PhilipsonSöderberg
Sandhamnsgatan 62
115 28 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 598 112 00
Homepage:
www.philipsonsoderberg.se
Prime Wine Sweden
Södra Hamnvägen 9,
Hus K, Frihamnen
115 56 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-679 52 00
Fax: +46 (8)-679 52 13
Homepage: www.primewine.se
Purity Vodka AB
Kansligatan 1B
211 22 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40) 20 47 60
Homepage: www.purityvodka.com
Saturnus AB
Bronsyxegatan 11
Box 9040, 200 39 Malmö
Tel: +46 (40)-671 19 00
Fax: +46 (40)-671 19 39
Homepage: www.saturnus.se
Stellan Kramer AB
PO Box 111
102 12 Danderyd
Tel: +46 (8)-544 905 90
Fax: +46 (8)-544 905 99
Homepage: www.stellankramer.se
Spendrups Vin
Vårby Allé 39
143 40 Vårby
Tel: +46 (8)- 672 77 00
Homepage: www.spendrup.se
Spirits of Gold AB
Box 7350, 103 90 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8) 660 32 10
Homepage: www.spiritsofgold.com
The Absolute company
Årsta Ängsväg 19 A
117 97 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 744 73 53
Homepage: www.absolut.com
Treasury Wine Estate
Birger Jarlsgatan 55
111 45 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)- 696 96 00
Homepage: www.twegolbal.com
VinUnic AB
Regeringsgatan 109
Box 7471, 114 44 Stockholm
Tel: +46 (8)-660 84 15
Fax: +46 (8)-660 84 53
Homepage: www.vinunic.se
Fine Di
ning
I N T
E R N
A T I
O N A
L
DINING
sept emb
wine
er 2013
I N T
E R N
A T I
O N A
L
Välkommen som prenumerant på
Fi n e D i n
ing
Fine Dining
I N T
E R N
A T I
O N A
L
Vä lko mm
DINING
DINING
en til l
Fin e Di ni
ng
– he la vä
rld en s
mö te sp
lat s i Sv
er ig e
ine dining
I N T
E R N
A T I
O N A
L
Din egen tidning som handlar om just det – fine dining.
Kommer 4 gånger om året och till din egen mailbox om du vill.
Anmäl dig utan kostnad som prenumerant nu eller ge Fine Dining
till en god vän – en present som räcker hela året.
Skicka dina kontaktuppgifter och mailadress till: [email protected]
51
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Online auction Oct 7 to 9
By: Sören Nylund
The auction will feature approximately 400 lots, when collectibles come under the hammer in this autumn’s first
wine and whisky auction. The total volume of sold lots is
expected to realize €230,267 against an estimated value of
€207,240.
The September auction elicited strong interest in vintage
champagne. There were more than 100 lots of champagne
of various vintages and sizes. As an example, two bottles
Comtes de Champagne 1976 reached a price of €1,554
compared to the estimate of €690. Seven bottles of Dom
Pérignon 1980 went for £21,000, £7,000 more than the estimate. A case of 6 bottles of Bollinger Grande Année 1996
valued at €967 achieved a final price €1,610.
There are many more examples worth highlighting. Champagne of good vintage and with proven storage provenance saw the bids climbing; prices were far higher in Sweden than at other similar auctions.
The largest turnover was in red wines from Bordeaux. As
in all international auctions, sales of Bordeaux typically
account for 60-70% of total wines on offer. We’re seeing a
growing trade in wines from Champagne, Burgundy, Italy
and California. Swedish sales have generally been stable
and in some cases have exceeded the major international
auctions.
An example of this includes a large collection of Château
Mouton Rothschild. A total of 76 different vintages aroused
great interest in June 2013 with a lot containing four bottles (1945-1949) selling for €13,815 against an estimate of
€7,830.
Final prices in September 2013 leave us wondering if Chateau Lafite is heading back towards record price levels? A
>>>
52
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bottle of 1982 vintage went for €1,785. Even a 12-bottle
case of Chateau Lynch-Bages 2008 vintage reached €1,785
against an estimate of €968. 12 bottles of Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 1999 also achieved
€1,785, compared to the estimate of €828.
Very high prices for collectors’ whisky and other distillates of
odd vintages have been noted in Sweden. The same applies
to unique products in collectible limited editions which are
in great demand.
The Swedish auction market for fine wines in relation to the
major foreign markets is still quite small by comparison, but
it is growing every year. Global sales at beverage auctions
amount to in excess of €287 million. The three largest international players account for more than €172.7 million, while
in Sweden the annual turnover is around €1.8 million.
We have planned for additional beverage auctions this season with upcoming auctions between 7-9 October and 1113 November and the season finale on 9-11 December.
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In October we will see several interesting and unusual items
such as Dom Pérignon 1961 and 1964 in magnums. There
will be full cases of Pétrus 1987, Latour 1989, and even a
Romanee Conti 1978 single bottle along with several wines
from the same winery, DRC. Armand de Brignac Gold in a
6-litre bottle, known as a Methuselah, will be vying for attention alongside a wide selection of Californian wines
which include Harlan, Bond, Koningsgaard and Ovid.
On the spirits side we will see lots of Ardbeg whisky in
several varieties and vintages of Rare Malts Selection, and
some rare, old rum.
We offer valuations throughout the autumn. By completing the evaluation form, you can receive information about
the items that qualify as collectibles and also have them
appraised. We also have open evaluation days where you
are most welcome to come along to meet us and have your
bottles appraised for sale at auction.
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Peter Thustrup
Online auction Oct 7 to 9
Grands Échézeaux 1973
DRC, Côte de Nuits, Grand Cru
Stored in private cellar
Danish tax label
1 bottle
Soft and pleasant, but there may be a risk of oxidation. Pay
attention to the colour. To pay more than 3000 Swedish
crowns would be risky.
85/100
Estimate : €345
205969 - 2006 Romanée - Conti, DRC
Romanée - Conti 2006
DRC , Côte de Nuits , Grand Cru
Bottle No. 03731
1 bottle
Beautifully refined with perfect balance, extremely complex
with good length, but still young. Has not reached even 50
% of its potential.
95/100
Estimate : €520
205975 - 2006 Grands Échézeaux , DRC
Grands Échézeaux 2006
DRC , Côte de Nuits , Grand Cru
Bottle No. 06786
1 bottle
Relatively mellow, already very enjoyable with good
balance, dense fruit, fine tannins. Spicy with good length.
92/100,
Estimate: €460
200703 - Wine
1 bottle of 1975 Ch Mouton Rothschild
An aromatic Mouton, with its trademark blackcurrant flavour, this wine should be drunk soon. Tasted 17 times, most
testers awarded 87-90/100.
85/100
Estimate: €165
200709 - Wine
Classic, good fruit, charming perfumed nose, still relatively
tight - would benefit from being decanted an hour before.
Tested 12 times.
88-91/100
Estimate : €185
200715 - Wine
One of the best of 1984’s severe vintage. Mouton was successful, in that it is 95% Cabernet . Good classic Bordeaux
structure and some blackcurrant. Has softened, but a little
dry, relatively complex.
Tested 11 times and given 87-91/100
90/100
Estimate: €185
200727 - Wine
1 bottle of 1985 Ch Mouton Rothschild 1985
I’ve always liked the Mouton 1985. Not a pretentious wine,
but always damn good. Tried 13 times 90-94/100
Estimate : €230
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200728 - Wine
Tried repeatedly (20 times). From 1990 to 1993, this was my
favourite, with concentrated fruit and slightly dry tannins I
gave it 92-100/100. Over recent years it has become dry,
rigid and dull; still potentially a great wine but hard for me
to know what to think now. Maybe going through a difficult
period ?
90 + ? / 100
Estimate : €460
200731 - Wine
Good, but now a relatively hard Mouton, I find it difficult to
‘get into’ this wine. Not particularly complex, but clean with
some enjoyment. Tried 12 times 87-90/100
86/100
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202246 - Wine
1 bottle of Ch Margaux 1983
Deliciously soft and classy with ripe fruit; rather more refined than round and complex. Wonderful 1990-2005, but
since then I feel it has lost some fruit and complexity - this
may be due to the bottles I tried. Tasted 30 times 87-95/100
88/100
Estimate : €288
202248 - Wine
1 bottle Ch Haur Brion 1983
Beautiful and smoky, well-balanced with good concentration. Moderate complexity, it is pleasant without being
great, except for one bottle, tested in 2000, which was outstanding. I rated it 94/100.
Tried 7 times 86-94/100
89/100
200816 - 1982 Chateau Mouton Baronne Philippe
Château Mouton Baronne Philippe 1982
Really good, typical 1982, soft, mature, pleasant; a delightful
wine to enjoy with lunch.
88/100
Estimate : €485
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AUCTION OF FINE & RARE WINES
Saturday, OctOber 5th, 2013 ~ 10:00aM
“Acker Autumn”
at
Marea Restaurant, 240 Central Park South, New York
SEARCH AND BID ONLINE WWW.ACKERWINES.COM
TOLL FREE Tel: 877.ACKER.47 • Fax: 877.ACKER.24 • Email: [email protected]
October 5th Sale
By John Kapun
Lots 309 - 435 is our first anchor of the sale. This is a collection that extends well beyond
a single country. We’ll start with a nice dispute with which to get involved. It will be a long
time before the debate is settled about which Bordeaux vintage from the 2000s is the best.
Votes are represented by cases of 2005 Cheval Blanc, Cos,
Margaux and Latour plus 2009 Brane Cantenac, Hosanna,
Leoville Poyferre, Pontet Canet and Pape Clement on offer. Big time Burgundy makes its voice heard via cases
of 1988 La Tache, 1990 Clos de Tart, 1996 Vogue Bonnes
Mares plus bottles of 1993 and 2002 Drouhin Musigny,
1999 Roumier Musigny with many more gems beyond
these – take a look. Rhone is showcased by Beaucastel,
Pegau, Guigal, Rayas and Chave. Iconic Clos Ste. Hune
is offered. Shifting the dialogue from French to Italian
makes for a seamless transition. Some of the greatest
red wines I’ve drunk have come from Giacosa. There are
three vintages from the eighties of his wonderful Barbaresco Santo Stefano Riserva. Add in Voerzio, Dal Forno
and Gaja to make sure Italy’s brilliance is presented plus
Screaming Eagle, Harlan and a vertical of Grange and
you have a wonderful collection. Lots 309-435 has something for everyone!
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Our next featured collection, Lots 436–546 is from a man
with wonderfully definitive views on a range of subjects. It’s
tough to argue with what’s in his cellar. He wisely bought
parcels of 1995 Ducru, 1996 Pichon Lalande, 1998 and 1999
Guigal La Landonne, 2001 Jamet, 1998 Sorrel and 1990 Dom.
Those alone are persuasive choices, as are the Burgundies.
A case of 1988 Rousseau Chambertin and two cases of 1999
DRC Duval-Blochet in OWC are impressive, worthy of serious cellars. Lots from Leroy, Dujac, Roumier Dugat, DugatPy and d’Angerville reinforce this collector’s wisdom about
Burgundy. As do the white Burgundies, all from our favorite
grand and premier cru vineyards and winemakers - Coche,
Ramonet, Leflaive, Jadot, Niellon and Sauzet. Rare treasures
here amidst the white are two of the most famous Montrachets ever made: the 1996 DRC Montrachet and 1982 Ramonet Montrachet. Don’t miss a case of Clos Ste. Hune , one
of the few whites that competes with great white Burgundy.
The entire collection comes to us from professional storage
in England.
Our third featured collection is unique. It contains California
winemakers and estates that are secrets among insiders –
albeit only temporarily because the wines are that impressive. Lots 244-308 contain both a beautiful range of cutting edge and already famous west coast winemakers. Let’s
go around the room. Raise your hand if you have heard of
Thomas Rivers Brown, Luc Morlet, Martha McClellan, Aaron
Pott and Maggie Harrison? I see a few raised hands from
the star students. How about SQN, Colgin, Bryant, Screaming Eagle. Harlan (magnums), Kistler and Quilceda
special
Creek? That initial, less well-known group is headed where
those latter seven are today – fame and acclaim. You know
what the market does after that. This collection has all of
those mentioned plus other you do should get to know.
These won’t be insiders’ wines for long. And you already
know how wonderful their more famous colleagues are
among Lots 244-308.
Next we return to the motherland, France, via Lots 655-722
with wines justifiably famous for decades and longer…
such as 1949 Leroy Richebourg, 1969 DRC Richebourg,
1999 Mugnier Musigny, Roumier Bonnes Mares, rare Ramonet from the 1980s, Rayas, Beaucastel Hommage, Bonneau Celestins and Chave Cuvee Cathelin.
Beautifully cellared Champagnes such as the wonderful
1975 and 1990 Dom Perignon Oenotheque, and four vintages all in large format of Pol Roger Winston Churchill including its first vintage are plentiful too . This collector was
far from chauvinistic which is why you’ll find ten magnums
of Harlan, a superb Screaming Eagle vertical, Colgin and
SQN in quantity. Every wine in Lots 655-722 has been properly stored.
And we barely scratched the surface of the gems in this
auction. I’ll tempt you with a few of the greats. Petrus 1959
(1958 too), Vogue Musigny back to 1949 – an impressive
verticals - magnums of Dujac, many more great Burgundy
producers. Full cases of legends from Italy like Conterno
Montfortino and Bartolo Mascarello. More Giacosa (there’s
never too much ) and far more from that great land. There
is also a wealth of great, old Spanish wines including CVNE,
Lopez de Heredia and Vega Sicilia back to 1941.
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XXIX
October 26th in Grissini at the Grand HyattHotel,
HONG KONG
• A spectacular 24 vintage vertical of Romanée Conti (lot
512)
• A Lucky 8 case, vintage vertical of increasingly rare DRC
assortments (lot 513)
• An incredible 63-vintage vertical of Lafite (lot 349)
• A rare 40 vintage vertical of Petrus (lot 445A)
• A 68-vintage vertical of monumental Mouton (lot 349A)
• A 61-vintage vertical of the beautiful Chateau Margaux
(lot 445)
• A 23-vintage vertical celebrates every single vintage of
Masseto (lot 540)
• A monumental 10-vintage vertical of Sassacaia in Double
Magnums (lot 539)
• A near-complete 14-vintage vertical collection of Sassicaia in Magnums (lot 538A)
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SOTHEBY’S HONG KONG PRESENTS
TWO IMPORTANT SINGLE-OWNER
WINE SALES ON 5 OCTOBER
Hong Kong, 15 August 2013 Sotheby’s Hong Kong is pleased to announce the sales of another two important private wine collections on 5 October during its Autumn 2013 Sales
Series (4 – 8 October) at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre.
The two sales - A Magnificent Bordeaux Cellar and Important Burgundy and Bordeaux From A Private Cellar – will
offer a total of over 800 lots, expected to fetch HK$43 – 60
million / US$5.5 – 7.8 million*. In addition to the ex-cellar
sale of Domaine Clarence Dillon: Wines Direct from the Cellars of Château Haut-Brion – Château Quintus – Château La
Mission Haut-Brion on 4 October, these two private collections cover an impressive quantity of top mature Bordeaux
and rare Burgundy from the most coveted vintages, accompanied by strong selections of wines from Champagne, the
Rhône Valley, Italy and Australia.
A Magnificent Bordeaux Cellar
10 am, 5 October
This magnificent collection features 288 lots estimated at
HK$14 – 20 million / US$1.8 - 2.6 million. Topclass Bordeaux
– the five First Growths plus Château Cheval Blanc - from
the best vintages are available, such as 1982, 1986, 1989,
1990, 1995, 1996, 2000. Many of these are offered in parcel
quantities - 10 cases of Château Mouton Rothschild 2000, 8
cases of Château Cheval Blanc 2000 and 8 cases of Château
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Margaux 2000. For Sauternes lovers, there is also an impressive selection of Château d’Yquem from the most excellent
vintages over the past 30 years, such as 1975, 1988, 1990
and 2001. In addition, rare vertical selections of Vega Sicilia
Único spanning 5 decades (1941 - 1999) with labels signed
by Pablo Alvarez are also on offer.
Commenting on this Bordeaux cellar, Serena Sutcliffe, Master of Wine (M. W.), Head of Sotheby’s International Wine
Department, said: “This is a classic collection of stunning
wine, utterly desirable bottles of pristine provenance and
special
great appeal. One of the exciting elements of this collection
is the preponderance of legendary wines at their beautiful
maturity, absolutely ready to drink, after suitable ‘resting’
following delivery. One has only to look at the ‘forest’ of First
Growth 1982s to start salivating. Mature wines are rarely
available at restaurants, unless you bring your own, so it is
wise to stock up. And then there is the generous amount of
2000s at top level – do make sure your grandchildren and
great-grandchildren have something suitable to drink at
the turn of this century!”
SALE HIGHLIGHTS:
Château Haut-Brion
• 6 Lots: 1982 (12 bottles) – Est. HK$48,000 – 70,000 /
US$6,000 – 9,000
US$13,000 – 18,000
US$3,750 – 5,500
Château La Mission Haut-Brion
US$9,000 – 13,000
US$9,000 – 13,000
US$6,500 – 9,000
Château Lafite
• 4 Lots: 1981 (1 Imperial) – Est. HK$28,000 – 40,000 /
US$3,500 – 5,000
US$12,000 –17,000
US$10,000 –14,000
US$14,000– 19,000 (pictured right)
US$30,000– 50,000
Château Latour
US$7,000 – 9,500
US$10,000 – 14,000
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special
Château Margaux
• US$7,500 – 10,000
• US$5,000 – 7,000
• US$9,000 – 14,000 (pictured left)
Château Mouton Rothschild
• US$7,500 – 10,000
• US$8,500 – 12,000 (pictured on p1)
• 3 Lots: 2000 (1 Jeroboam) – Est. HK$80,000 – 110,000 /
• US$10,000 – 14,000
Château Cheval Blanc
US$8,500 – 12,000
US$3,750 – 5,500
US$7,500 – 11,000
Château d’Yquem
US$4,500 – 6,000
• 2 Lots: 1990 (24 half bottles) – Est. HK$36,000 – 48,000 /
US$4,500 – 6,000
Important Burgundy And Bordeaux From A Private Cellar
Approx. 12:30pm, 5 October
This is an exceptional collection of the finest Burgundy and
Bordeaux wines, alongside a superb selection from Champagne, Italy and Australia. Of particular note, significant parcel quantities of mature wines are being offered which are
rarely seen in any market. Over 500 lots estimated at HK$29
– 40 million / US$3.7 – 5.2 million will be featured.
Over 150 lots of rare red and white Burgundy from the region’s most celebrated wineries begin the auction, includ-
ing Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Domaine Leroy, Domaine Comte Georges de Vögué plus Henri Jayer, Domaine
Coche-Dury and Domaine Leflaive, among others. 250 lots
of Bordeaux provide collectors looking for significant quantities of top mature wines an exceptional opportunity with
1982 and 1990 - two of the best vintages of the 20th century
- creating the backbone of the collection. An unheard-of 46
cases of the legendary Château Haut-Brion 1989 highlight
the Bordeaux section with other important parcels includ-
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ing Château Mouton Rothschild 1982 (26 cases), Château
Cheval Blanc 1982 (12 cases), Château Margaux 1990 (12
cases), Château Latour 1990 (14 cases) and Château Le Pin
1990 (3 cases).
Top Rhône wines from Chave, Chapoutier, Rayas and Jaboulet follow plus excellent Champagne from Dom Pérignon
and Krug. Italy’s Super Tuscans are present in benchmark
vintages such 1990 and 1997, and Australia’s finest in the
form of Penfolds Grange and Clarendon Hills Astralis round
off the auction.
Talking about this important cellar of Bordeaux and Burgundy, Serena Sutcliffe, Master of Wine (M. W.), Head of
Sotheby’s International Wine Department, remarked: “This
great wine collection is all about pedigree and pleasure –
special
the two are intimately connected! The depth and breadth of
this starry array of names is breathtaking, but the bouquet
and flavours of the wines are celestial. It is extremely rare to
come across bottles, and cases, of this calibre and the quantities involved make one gasp. Many of Asia’s most enthusiastic and knowledgeable wine lovers were too young to buy
these vintages as ‘futures’, so a collection such as this presents a phenomenal opportunity to ‘catch up’ and acquire
them when they are at their show-stopping best.”
All wines were inspected by Sotheby’s experts at a professional storage facility in Bordeaux and were shipped to
Hong Kong via dedicated temperature controlled ocean
freight. Many of the wines in this sale were previously purchased from Sotheby’s auctions in New York and London.
SALE HIGHLIGHTS:
Burgundy
Domaine de la Romanée Conti:
• 4 lots: Echézeaux 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est.
HK$90,000 – 120,000/ US$12,000 – 15,000
• 1 lot: La Tâche 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est.
HK$320,000 – 480,000 / US$40,000 – 60,000
• 4 lots: Richebourg 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est.
HK$180,000 – 260,000 / US$22,500 – 32,500
• 1 lot: Romanée Conti 1990 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (6 bottles) –
Est. HK$600,000 – 850,000 / US$75,000 – 110,000 (pictured left)
• 2 lots: La Tâche 1996 Domaine de la Romanée Conti (12 bottles) – Est.
HK$200,000 – 280,000 / US$26,000 – 36,000
Henry Jayer: (pictured left)
• 1 lot: Echézeaux 1991 Henry Jayer (12 bottles) – Est. HK$240,000 –
360,000 / US$30,000 – 45,000
• 2 lots: Vosne Romanée, Cros Parantoux 1991 Henri Jayer (12 bottles) –
Est. HK$280,000 – 400,000 / US$35,000 – 50,000
Comte Georges de Vogüé:
• 1 lot: Musigny, Cuvée Vieilles Vignes 1990 Comte Georges de Vogüé (12
bottles) – Est. HK$50,000 – 70,000 / US$6,500 – 9,000
Domaine Leflaive:
• 3 lots: Bâtard Montrachet 1992 Domaine Leflaive (12 bottles) – Est.
HK$48,000 – 65,000 / US$6,000 – 8,000
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special
Sotheby’s to offer grand vintage
collection champagnes
direct from
the cellar
of moËt &
chandon
for sale at Sotheby’s London
on 13 November 2013.
Auction celebrates Moet & Chandon’s 270th Anniversary. Nearly a century of Champagne
vintages for sale at Sotheby’s London on 13 November 2013.
London – Continuing its tradition of bringing to market
rare and extraordinary wines. Sotheby’s is delighted to announce a sale wich celebrates Moët & Chandon’s 270th anniversary with an offering of Champagnes which span nearly
a century – from 2004 to 1914. Sotheby’s auction of Grand
Vintage Collection Champagnes direct from the cellars of
Moët & Chandon, in partnership with the legendary French
House, will take place at Sotheby’s London on 13 November
2013. This selection of Champagne has never previously left
Moët & Chandons 28 km of cellars in Epernay wher all the
wines have been stored since production. Each vintage has
been selected by Moet & Chandon’s Chef de Cave, Benoit
Gouez and Sotheby’s International Head of Wine, Serena
Sutcliffe MW.
The auction comprises 270 bottles of Blanc and Rose
Champagnes to celebrate the House’s 270 1 anniversary, together with 174 magnumsand three jeroboams, to
honour its foundation in 1743 by Claude Moet. The 74lots
will be offered in Sotheby’s sale of Finest & Rarest Wines and
overall, they are estimated to bring in excess of £100,000.
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Serena Sutcliffe MW, Worldwide Head of Sotheby’s Wine Department, said “We have never before heldan auction of this sca/e,
with such a selection of rare and fine Champagnes from one producer. /t is a truly historie range - one that offers you the chance
to step into the heritage of the Moet cellars. l tastedthe legendary
1914 with Beno/t earlier this year and it is superlative. Tasting such
a range of extraordinary Champagnes in perfeet condition in the
cellars where they have been lying for decades, some for near/y a
century, is something you wi/1 remember all your Iife.”
Benalt Gouez, Moet & Chandon’s Chef de Cave, comments,
“There are some incredible wines in this auction, which offers a
fantastic insight into Moet’s 270 year history. Some have been resting in our cellars since their ‘degorgement’ up to ten years ago and
show great rnaturity and complexity; but others from 1914, the
‘20s, ‘sos and ‘60s have been on their lees until their ‘degorgement’
earlier this year and show such a youthful character. 1914 wi/1 be
particular/y evocative: the harvest was brought forward due to the
war, and the wine took a Iong time to develop, but today it is truly
remarkable.”
Moet & Chandon, one of the first luxury brands, is celebrating
more than a quarter of a millennium as the world’s leading
Champagne. The founder’s pioneering grandson Jean RemyMoet was one of the most important figures in the history of
Champagne, introducing his family’s wine to the courts of Europe. The House’s legacy flourished and continu es to this day,
its name synonymous with tradition and pleasure. Soth eby’s sa
le marks a very special moment in its history.
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special
Sotheby’s to offer rare bootles
from the private cellar of Madame Lacoste-Loubat
Legendary late owner of
Pétrus and Latour à Pomerol
In London on 23 November 2013.
Unmissable opportunity to acquire a piece of Bordeaux history.
Pétrus and Latour à Pomerol reconditioned at the Châteaux especially for sale.
LONDON – Continuing its tradition of bringing to market
rare and extraordinary wines. Sotheby’s is delighted to announce a sale of the legendary Lacoste-Loubat cellar in its
London sale of Finest & Rarest Wines on 23 October 2013.
This private cellar is remarkable treasure trove of three fabulous Right Bank wines: Châteaux Pétrus, LaTour à Pomerol
and La Fleur, bottles that have been ‘sleeping’ for decades,
but are now released to wine connoisseurs around the
world. The collection, comprising over 300 lots, is being sold
to bebefit the Foundation ‘Le Foyer de Charité’ and is estimated to bring in excess of £800,000
In addition, the sale features a superb selection of Bordeaux
and Burgundy from a Connoisseur, which is expected to
realiseover £500,000.
The wines from the Private Cellar of Madame LacosteLoubat have been nurtured with care and, exceptionally,
in the case of Petrus and Latour a Pomerol, reconditioned
at the respective Chateaux: new labels and capsules have
been applied and all bottles are offered in new original
wooden cases.
Serena Sutcliffe MW, Worldwide Head of Sotheby’s Wine
Department, comments: “/t isanimmense privilege to bring
to auction the legendary Lacoste-Loubat Cellar. This is an
unrnissab/e opportunity to acquire a piece of Bordeaux history.
The vast majority of the wines are rnature and demanding to
be drunk and appreciated, just one of the many enormous
pleasures waiting to be experienced by wine lovers around the
globe.”
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Madame Lily Lacoste-Loubat inherited both Chateau
Petrus and Chateau Latour a Pomerol in 1961 from her
aunt, Madame Loubat, who had established the reputation of Chateau Petrus during and after the Second World
War. Tegether with these two great Pomerols, Madame
Lily Lacoste-Loubat also owned the St. Emilian Grand
Cru, Chateau La Fleur.
The range of Chateau Petrus encompasses vintages from
1945 to 1999 and formats from bottie to double magnum.
As Serena Sutcliffe MW notes, “it is especially rare to see
such a !arge selection of Petrus which, coming with this remarkable history and provenance, makes this sa/e unique”.
Star lots include a magnum and a bottie of Chateau
Petrus 1945, estimated respectively at £12,000-16,000 and
£4,400-5,000, and a magnum of Chateau Petrus 1949, whi
ch carriesan estimate £l,000-9,000.
The span of vintages of Chateau Latour a Pomerol is
even wider, from 1929 to 1995, available in bottles and
magnums. The mythical 1947 is just one of many outstanding of the fabled 1961 vintage carries an estimate of £40,000-50,000 for 12 bottles vintages on offer:
a four-bottie Iot is estimated to bring£3,800-4,800. A complete case of the fabled 1961 vintage carries an estimate of
£40,000-50,000 for 12 bottles (illustrated right), such a Iot
never before appearing at a Sotheby’s auction in London.
Collectors with a desire to campare the styles of Petrus
and Latour a Pomerol can ehoase between vintages such
as 1950, 1964 and 1990, all particularly delectable.
The sale provides a further treat for collectors with a wine
that is rarely seen at auction. Covering a mere 6.3 hectares,
Serena Sutcliffe says of Chateau La Fleur: “If everthere were
a ‘secret’, inside track wine, this is it!” A parce! of the 1959
vintage is estimated at £500-600 per 12-bottle case.
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68

September - Fine wine magazine

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