Eyecare Business Feb 2015

FEBRUARY 2015
Re-Building
BLOCKS
Today’s Frame Companies Restructure
Their House and Licensed Brands
DISPENSING
A FUN LOOK AT 20
“WHY ME” MOMENTS
ON THE EDGE
THE LATEST OPTIONS
AND ADVANCES IN
FINISHING EQUIPMENT
BONU
S
AR BAS
ICS
AND
CROSS
WO
PUZZL RD
E
plus! New Consumer Connection column—featuring Paco Underhill this month
EB
VEE PREVIEW
A Visionary Approach
to Optical
A preview of next month’s Vision Expo
a
ttendees of International Vision Expo East
(VEE), to be held March 19 to 22 at the Javits
Center in New York City, will fnd a revised
show foor and new education initiatives
planned to enhance their experience. This year’s VEE tagline
is, “Visionaries in Education, Fashion and Technology.” And,
once again, it will present an education program featuring
more than 330 hours of CE credits and an exhibit space that
will house exhibitors from around the globe showcasing the
latest in optical products and medical technology, as well as
contests, celebrity appearances, fashion shows, and more.
On the show foor, changes include The Galleria and The
Underground (housing fashion-forward collections from around
the world) being elevated to a new exhibit area on level three.
A Technology Theater opens on level one where attendees can
take advantage of the Retail and Wearable Technology tracks
of education and special “Tech Talks.” The Social Media Zone
remains a hub to monitor what’s trending at the conference, and
the Medical & Scientifc Theater hosts supplier-endorsed, free
education courses focused on clinical topics.
On the following pages we present a preview of what show
attendees can expect, from specifc promotions and demonstrations at booths to CE and other programming highlights.
To register and for a full schedule of CE, exhibitor listings,
foor maps, and a guide to all the special events and parties,
visit visionexpoeast.com.
What’s Happening in the Booths
1 A&A OPTICAL
Stop by the A&A Optical booth to catch a
glimpse of new show-stopping eyewear styles
from Jimmy Crystal New York, Alexander
Collection, XXL, Cruz, Jalapenos, Pez, and new
collections SeventyOne and Crocs Eyewear.
BOOTH: 3834
INFO: aaopticalco.com
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4
2 AIT
Two promotions will be happening at the
booth: 4.99% fnancing and a free airMAX
wet edger air purifcation system with any
new edging system purchase, and a free Applanation tonometer with any full ophthalmic
exam lane purchase.
BOOTH: 7041
INFO: aitindustries.com
2
5
4 ASPIRE EYEWEAR
Introducing Aspire, the next generation in
eyewear. Incorporating the latest in technology, advanced materials, and fashion,
Aspire Eyewear is a colorfully captivating
collection for today’s men and women.
BOOTH: G5734
INFO: aspireeyewear.com
3 ALTERNATIVE EYEWEAR
Come see great new clip-on designs in the
ClipTech line and fun summer sunglass styles
from OneSun. All qualifed purchases and
orders will receive a cash gift card.
BOOTH: 3775
INFO: alternativeeyes.com
5 BEST IMAGE OPTICAL, INC.
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Eye careB u s ine s s.c o m
February 2015
Find out how you can protect your profession, profts, and business by partnering
with Best Image Optical, a truly independent and Internet-free eyewear company. BOOTH: 4403
INFO: bestImageoptical.com EB
VEE PREVIEW
6 BRIOT USA
Briot, a divison of Luneau Technology, will be
showcasing the newest technology from Visionix, the VX 120. Stop by the booth for special
ofers for the Visionix VX 55 phoropter tablet
device, free giveaway items, edging system
specials, and special fnancing.
BOOTH: 7145
INFO: briot.com/usa
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6
7 CLEARVISION OPTICAL
ClearVision introduces the latest designs from
brands like BCBGMAXAZRIA, Cole Haan, and
IZOD, plus a preview of its latest innovation in
dilli dalli pediatric eyewear.
BOOTH: 4521
INFO: cvoptical.com
13
NEW FRAMES
8 COBURN TECHNOLOGIES
Silver
New additions to the diagnostic, coating, surfacing lines will be displayed: the Huvitz Ltd.,
the HOM-700 advanced surgical microscope,
the SGX Pro tabletop generator, and the new
Pinnacle Lite Polish. Also, a one-of-a-kind,
specially designed edger will be on sale.
BOOTH: 7519
INFO: coburntechnologies.com
Gun
7
Black
Brown
Polish Black
Matte Black
Matte Slate
Matte Gray
Matte Taupe
Transparent Red
9 COSTA
Register at the booth to win a pair of Costa Rx
sunglasses. Also, buy any combination of 12
pairs of Costa 580 or 400 sunglasses, get a free
pair of sunglasses up to $149 retail value. Buy
any combination of 20 pairs of Costa 580 or 400
sunglasses, get a pair of sunglasses up to $279
retail value.
BOOTH: 4302
INFO: costadelmar.com
www.thehoyafreeformcompany.com
12 FGX INTERNATIONAL
8
Corinne McCormack introduces a Sun
Rx collection for spring 2015. The debut
collection incorporates several iconic elements from the brand’s ophthalmic frame
line including Corinne’s exclusive leopard
pattern zyl and jewelry-inspired “X” seen in
the Expressway collection. BOOTH: 4335
INFO: 800-480-4846
9
10 ESSILOR OF AMERICA
Come see all the consumer advertising
planned for Varilux, Xperio UV, Crizal, and
Transitions. The new Varilux line and Xperio UV
colors will also be featured, as well as demonstrations of the latest in dispensing technology
with Visiofce and M’EyeFit.
BOOTH: 7235
INFO: essilor.com
13 HILCO
11 ESSILOR INSTRUMENTS USA
Stop by to see the latest technology in action.
Lens engraving demos with the Mr. Blue 2.0
fnishing system, non-contact tracing with
INESS T, as well as the digital measuring device
M’Eye Fit mirror.
BOOTH: 7135
INFO: essilorinstrumentsusa.com
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EyecareBu s in e s s. c o m
February 2015
Leader Rx Sunglasses are Hilco’s smart
optical solution to price barriers and optical limitations of 8-base wrap sunglasses.
It’s a combination of sporty wrap styling,
afordable pricing, and superior optics.
The 6-base lens adapter accommodates
standard lens processing for hassle-free
glazing.
BOOTH: 4621
INFO: hilco.com
14 HOYA
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HOYA DF and the Avantek Mounting
System will be launching their new Carbon
Fiber and TR90 frame designs at the show,
so stop by to see actual samples. HOYA DF
and Avantek won Best New Product awards
at Vision Expo East in 2012 and 2014.
BOOTH: 7103
INFO: thehoyafreeformcompany.com
EB
VEE PREVIEW
15 L’AMY AMERICA
15
Its latest style, the Nicole Miller Tomkins sunglass, embodies a vintage feel with retro shape
and vintage modern colors that is easy to wear
and glamorous.
BOOTH: 3834
INFO: lamyamerica.com
16 LEYBOLD OPTICS USA
The Leybold Optics group of Buhler is showcasing the Boxer 900, ofering labs unprecedented
productivity for the investment, and a compact
sputter coater (STAR) with many new innovations improving upon current oferings in this
market segment.
BOOTH: 7555
INFO: leyboldoptics.com
19
17 LIVE EYEWEAR
New Cocoons Fitover (OTG) Goggles feature an
anti-fog, dual-lens design to deliver exceptional clarity and performance in cold weather
conditions. Visit the booth for exclusive Vision
Expo specials!
BOOTH: 4409
INFO: cocoonseyewear.com
18 LUXOTTICA
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20
19 MARCHON EYEWEAR
Stop by the Marchon Eyewear booth to
see the new Flexon Sun Collection, the frst
memory metal sunwear entirely equipped
with PolarRepel lenses. The collection is
exclusively developed with ZEISS.
BOOTH: 4653
INFO: marchon.com
17
Luxottica launches the Michael Kors Spring
2015 eyewear collection that includes sleek
cat-eye shapes to cool, classic aviators and
bold, screen-siren geometrics, each designed
with the designer’s signature jet-set sensibility.
BOOTH: 3853
20 MARCOLIN
INFO: luxottica.com
18
Ermenegildo Zegna presents its new eyewear collection, produced and distributed
for the frst time by the Marcolin Group.
The new pieces perfectly embody the aesthetic principles of the brand, exalting its
pursuit of excellence and innovative spirit.
BOOTH: 3534
INFO: marcolin.com
CE GOES HIGH-TECH
A
ttendees will notice something
new about many of the courses at
Vision Expo East. A new approach
called crowd-sourced learning
increases classroom collaboration as students steer the conversation using interactive technologies to suggest speaker topics
and hone in on desired information.
Other education highlights include:
A Retail education track will provide a
fresh perspective on growing a brand, and
a Spectacle Lens Expert Track provides
expert level education all lenses and materials available in the marketplace.
The Technology Theater (booth 7876 on
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EyecareBu s in e s s. c o m
February 2015
•
•
•
•
Level 1) will host a variety of sponsored
programs on the latest products including:
A New Medical-Scientifc Approach to
Children’s Optical Frames session by Saflo,
Saturday at 1:30 p.m. Free.
A Global Contact Lens Forum ofering six
hours of programs of scientifc information
and business strategies. Free.
An enhanced medical track includes new
ocular wellness and sports vision tracks, as
well as imaging technology, and glaucoma.
A Spotlight series ofers early morning and
lunchtime sessions on relevant and business topics, including:
“More Than Meets the Eye: The
•
Evolution in Eyecare, Retail, and
Customer Service,” Friday, 1:30 p.m.,
led by retail market researcher Paco
Underhill.
“State of the Optical Industry
Address,” Friday, 7:15 a.m., led by
leading O.D.s and optical executives.
“Memorable Customer Service,” Saturday, 12:30 p.m., presented by The
Ritz-Carlton Leadership Center.
“Healthcare Reform Update,” Saturday, 1:30 p.m., led by two O.D.s in
collaboration with the AOA.
INFO: visionexpoeast.com/education/
highlights
•
•
•
EB
VEE PREVIEW
21 MATCH EYEWEAR
Visit Match’s new space, center foor, and to
see how easy it is to order your best-selling
Adrienne Vittadini, Danny Gokey, AV Studio,
Helium, Float Kids, and Aero styles on the new
Match Eyewear website, launching March 2015.
BOOTH: 3820
INFO: matcheyewear.com
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22 MOREL
28
Inspired by the Chloris grass, this Koali new
concept for 2015 echoes the movement of
the plant by colorfully playing with light and
depth.
BOOTH: G5443
INFO: morel-france.com
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23 NATIONAL OPTRONICS
Come see National Optronics’ sleek “X Line” of
fnishing equipment featuring the 7Ex edger,
3Bx blocker, and 4Tx. The 7Ex edger features
drilling and grooving technique that eliminates
unnecessary tool changes between processes.
BOOTH: 7121
INFO: nationaloptronics.com
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30
24 OGI EYEWEAR
27 PLAN “B” EYEWEAR
Innotec presents an innovative new style to the
Elements Collection, the Shaw. This P3 inspired
shape combines sleek German Wagner stainless steel and smooth matte Swiss TR-90 for a
modern look. It features a distinguished key
hole bridge and a fattering round lens shape.
BOOTH: G5727
INFO: innoteceyewear.com
Come see what’s hot for 2015 in the Glacée
collection and see the brand new luxury
men’s line, Staag Spectacles. All qualifed
purchases and orders will receive a cash
gift card.
BOOTH: 3775
INFO: planbeyewear.com
25 OPTEK INTERNATIONAL
Rudy Project has once again revolutionized the world of unbreakable sport lenses
with the next generation of ImpactX-2
lenses. See them and be stunned.
BOOTH: By appointment only.
Call Kenny Cox at: 949-370-3117, kcox@
gorace.pro
INFO: rudyprojectusa.com
28 RUDY PROJECT
Optek International will be demonstrating its
complete surfacing lab system, OASIS MAX.
Also featured will be the exciting new Shape
lens fnishing center and several Topcon edger
models. Special show pricing will be available.
BOOTH: 7227
INFO: optekinternational.com
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26 OPTIKAM TECH, INC.
29 SAFILO
Experience the OptikamPad, the unique electronic
dispensing solution that helps bring your practice
to the next level. Get a Canon SX130 Camera with
each purchase of the OptikamPad. BOOTH: 7028
INFO: optikam.com
Saflo USA will preview the Kids by Saflo
collection, which is aimed at the complex
and specifc needs of children and is based
on a medical-scientifc approach related to
all aspects of proper ft, performance and
aesthetics.
BOOTH: 3548
INFO: saflo.com
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30 SANTINELI INTERNATIONAL
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Eye careB u s ine s s.c o m
February 2015
The fnalists of Santinelli’s second annual
“Think Outside the Box-Edge” custom lens
design contest will be on display. Come
see what can be created with the ME Lens
Edger.
BOOTH: 7321
INFO: santinelli.com
EB
VEE PREVIEW
31 SCHNEIDER OPTICAL
Schneider Optical Machines will have its All-inOne Digital Surfacing lab set up at its booth for
all attendees to see. This complete unit allows
you to surface both free-form and traditional
lenses in one, easy-to-use machine with nonalloy blocking and a 3’x6’ footprint and.
BOOTH: 7369
INFO: schneider-om.com
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33
33 SERENGETI
32 SEIKO EYEWEAR
Come learn about free-form progressive (backsurfaced with wider felds) and single-vision
lenses in all popular materials, as well as Seiko
Titanium frames. New this year is the women’s
Flex Action titanium frames.
BOOTH: 7303
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INFO: seikoeyewear.com
Serengeti Spin to Win celebrates
the launch of the refreshed
Sport Collection. Serengeti is
giving away sunglasses and Rx
vouchers at the top of the hour,
from 11a.m. to 4 p.m.—stop by
for a chance to win.
BOOTH: 4735
INFO: serengeti-eyewear.com
34 SHAMIR INSIGHT
34
Learn all about Shamir’s new
proprietary AR Coating, Glacier
PLUS UV. Inspired by the unique
and impressive qualities of a glacier, this premium anti-refective
coating helps patients look their
best, see their best, and feel safe.
BOOTH: 7535
INFO: shamirlens.com
OWA TO HOST TWO EVENTS,
EB EDITOR TO BE HONORED
T
he Optical Women’s Association (OWA) will honor Amy
Spiezio, executive editor of
Eyecare Business magazine, and
Maureen Cavanagh, president of the
Vision Impact Institute, supported by
Essilor, for their contributions to optical industry.
They will be honored at the group’s
two events: the popular networking
event and a new Champagne Breakfast
event. The breakfast will be Thursday,
March 19 from 7:30 to 9 a.m. at the
New York Marriott Marquis, and the
traditional Star Award Ceremony and
Networking Event will be Friday, from 6
to 8 p.m. at the Calvin Klein showroom
at 654 Madison Avenue.
Hosted by Luxottica, the Champagne Breakfast will give attendees the
opportunity to hear from the honorees
as well as keynote speaker Holly Rush,
president of Luxottica Wholesale North
America.
Spiezio, the Pyxis award honoree, is
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Eye careB us in es s. co m
February 2015
the executive editor of Eyecare Business
magazine and has been with the publication for 13 years. She has served on
the OWA board for nine years, acting
as the secretary/treasurer for several
terms. Her tenure in the organization
has included involvement on many
committees, particularly communications, mentoring, and the programs
committee.
Cavanagh, the Pleiades award honoree, is a strong advocate for women in
leadership roles. She currently mentors
several women in business and was integral in the launch of the Diversity and
Inclusion initiative at Essilor. Cavanagh
has served as keynote speaker on topics
of inspiring change and was a guest on
the Power Hour radio show, advocating
on behalf of women taking control of
their own career development. Tickets to the breakfast are $35
(members and non-members), with
tables of eight available for $250.
INFO: opticalwomen.com
Amy Spiezi
o
Maureen Cavanagh
Holly Rush
35 SIGNET ARMORLITE
Stop by to hear how the KODAK
Clean’N’CleAR UV Lens takes eyecare
protection to a new level with an
E-SPF rating of 25. Check out the latest
upgrades in anti-refective coatings
and more.
BOOTH: 7115
INFO: signetarmorlite.com
36 SMITH
The Elise is launching at Vision Expo
East. The unique drop bridge and keyway nose detailing beautifully accent
its round lens shape, while luxurious
acetate materials bring the perfect
touch of style and color. Premium
spring hinges and beautiful wire-core
temples ensure all-day comfort in a
piece with style in spades. BOOTH: 3566
INFO: smithoptics.com
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40 VSP OPTICS GROUP
36
Stop by and meet otto. Representatives will
demonstrate the beam—otto’s patented
measurement technology—and other features, such as order processing, OfceMate
integration, and more.
BOOTH: 4724
INFO: vspopticsgroup.com
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37 SPY
Stop by SPY’s booth to check out a
touch of fair and strong lines. Fashioned from handmade acetate with
spring hinges, the Weston is a classic
shape ft for any face.
BOOTH: 4368
INFO: spyoptic.com
41 WESTGROUPE
WestGroupe’s style F-3529 from its Fysh UK
collection is a semi-rimless stainless steel
style with a holographic 3D efect. Available in four fabulous metallic colors, this
style comes in size 51-18-140.
BOOTH: 3621
INFO: westgroupe.com
38 SUPER SYSTEMS OPTICAL
TECHNOLOGIES
FastGrind is excited to announce
they will be ofering free pairs of
ADDvantage HD progressive lenses to
attendees who pre-register with Super
Systems and attend a live demonstration of the FastGrind system. To
pre-register for a demonstration, email
[email protected].
BOOTH: 7558
INFO: superoptical.com
42 WILEY-X
Wiley X, Inc., has launched a completely
new line of Rx-Ready Youth Force Sports
Protective Eyewear models for 2015,
providing a range of frame sizes, styles, and
colors to meet the needs of young athletes.
All Youth Force glasses can quickly change
from spectacles to goggles. BOOTH: 3921
INFO: wileyx.com
38
39 VANNI EYEWEAR
Visit the new Vanni Eyewear booth and
view the latest and creative approaches to merchandising your stores with
Vanni optical for 2015.
BOOTH: G5647
INFO: mydesigngallery.com
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43 YOUNGER OPTICS
39
Celebrate 60 years with Younger Optics
and learn about its latest lens innovations:
NuPolar Gradients, Transitions Signature FT28 in polycarbonate, Transitions
Drivewear in Trilogy Trivex, and Transitions
XTRActive in brown!
BOOTH: 7155
INFO: youngeroptics.com
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February 2015
EyecareBus ines s. co m
35
Editoral Series | BRAND OUTLOOK
BuildingREMIXED
blocks
Part 2 of our series explores how proprietary brands are reconstructing the market
BY AMY SPIEZIO
I
n today’s world, consumers are different
than ever before. What moves them to buy
is a totally new set of expectations, one that
doesn’t necessarily include brand names.
In part one of our series on brands in optical, we spoke with industry executives about the
state of licensed brands. For this installation of
the series, we speak with them about another,
growing side of frame portfolios: proprietary
brands.
Proprietary brands used to be no-name
discount options, but that’s changing as these
non-licensed collections increase in quality—
and profle. This shift is impacting manufacturing, and will impact retailers and consumers as
well. Proprietary brands can serve as a strong
foundation for ECPs’ inventory in a way that the
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EyecareBu s in es s.co m
February 2015
product couldn’t have in the past. These frames
offer greater variety, higher quality, and a level
of brand support that marks a change in the way
these products traditionally come to market.
“Contrary to the previous mindset of private
label management, this approach does not commoditize the manufacturers’ brands by offering
a comparable product at a signifcantly lower
price point,” says Meera Mullick-Kanwar,
author of “The Evolution of Private Branding.”
“This would undermine the value inherent in
the whole category and lower margins overall.”
New Construction
There is a growing trend in the industry to
re-jigger brand structures to have more business
building blocks come from proprietary brands,
evening out the house-to-licensed ratio of
products, and matching the direction of the
retail market overall.
“More private label ranges are being treated
as ‘real’ brands, as the quality rises and the trust
that consumers have in the retail brand translates into confdence to buy private label across
food and non-food categories,” notes Tim Eales,
director of strategic insights for IRI in the report,
“Private Label: Balancing Quality and Value.”
Rather than depending on name brand only,
he notes, consumers are thinking more about
how products meet their needs. “In the United
States, consumers have settled into a new normal, where they are buying the mix of national
and private label brands that provides the best
value for their own unique needs,” he says.
Building Lessons
In optical, the rise of proprietary brands
makes good sense for frame manufacturers,
as they invest deeply in product lines that will
never hop to other companies at the end of a
licensing agreement.
In fact, the way license owners are changing
their own distribution policies, looking to handle
all retail contact with consumers, is leading frame
companies to reconsider their business methods.
“Since 2010, retailers have been moving
toward omni-channel retailing, which is aimed at
providing a seamless customer experience, integrated across all channels both domestically and
internationally,” says Lois Herzeca and Howard
Hogan in “Fashion Law and Business: Brands and
Retailers.”
As a result, some frame companies are weighing options. “When eyewear companies see
brand owners such as Kering (which owns Gucci,
Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, and Puma, among
others) announce they will build their own eyewear distribution company and take their brands
back from their licensees, it gets everyone’s attention,” says Mike Hundert, CEO, Rem Eyewear.
Hundert predicts “a fundamental shift in the
historical notion that eyewear is nearly always
Thanks, But No Thanks…
There are companies who will always prefer the licensed life.
• EDUCATIONAL TOOL. Christopher Shyer, president of Zyloware, notes that
their proprietary license universe is small because they use brand names as an
educational tool for consumers and a selling tool for ECPs. “We’re not building
brands that create work for them. We’re trying to create brands that educate the
consumer more easily for them. We are primarily a fashion eyewear designer, and
that dictates that primarily we produce licensed product.”
He adds that Zyloware’s policy is, “in lieu of using proprietary brands, we have
licensed brands that fll a diferent, tier-pricing point of view.”
• WINNING PLAN. Arthur Jankolovits, president of New York Eye, stands by his
licenses. “We are strong supporters of licensing, it’s been very good to the company. We ofer licenses at value and upper-value price points instead of at luxury
price points.” With some of the company’s brands 20+ years old, the approach has
proven to be a winning plan. “The brands are mature and they are strong and we
don’t have any plans at this point to introduce new house brands,” he says.
• REACHING OUT. Kenmark has also committed to its licensed product
portfolio, says CEO Mike Cundif. “At this point, we do not foresee a change in
our approach to house brands. I still continue to see companies reaching out to
licenses, although a few companies have incorporated their propriety brands
very successfully.”
licensed to professional eyewear companies.
Among the considerations in response is the
wisdom of building house-named proprietary
brands that an eyewear company owns, which
cannot therefore be taken away after having
invested millions of dollars building its roots
and reputation in the eyewear category.”
In fact, he expects frame companies, his
own included, to increasingly embrace the
proprietary philosophy. “I anticipate an acceleration of building and marketing house brands
throughout our industry.”
Further development of proprietary brands
will drive a fuller spectrum of in-house attention to these collections in a way that has been
more typical for licensed collections. “I believe
we will see further development of proprietary
brands among companies,” says Peter Friedfeld,
executive vice president of ClearVision Optical.
“This means that the energy and resources once
devoted to building licensed brands will be put
in other areas, such as product and marketing,
crucial for building great house brands that have
a purpose in the market. People do respond to
and need great product and great design.”
And it’s not just support for today. “We are
approaching our proprietary brands with a
long-term, systemic brand-building strategy,”
says Saflo CEO Luisa Delgado, “We are developing, one-by-one, brand-building platforms and
February 2015
Eyec areBusiness.c om
47
Editoral Series | BRAND OUTLOOK
and distinctive marketing campaign ideas,
product, and commercial strategies, and fve
year roll-out plans with top and bottom line
objectives and clear building blocks.”
To move into its future without Gucci and
other Kering brands, Saflo has created a new,
multifunctional global brand management organization for brands, as well as a new corporate
marketing function rooted in consumer understanding and brand-building agency partnership
management.
Delgado notes, “these are new capabilities
for Saflo because our core strength has been
licensed brand management, equally demanding
but different in nature.”
Stacking Up Privately
Some companies stay out of the name game
entirely, opting to be their own brand builders.
“There are some frames that are house brands
and there are some that are just optical brands—
a Silhouette, a Lafont. These are optical brands,
you can’t classify them as house brands,” says
Mike Suliteanu, president of WestGroupe.
“For Silhouette, I don’t see a big change
precipitated by these changes because Silhouette
stands on its own right now with the Silhouette
name,” says Jan Cory, president of Silhouette
USA. “There is a quest out there in the marketplace for original eyewear brands with a really
limited distribution, that has character, that is
really authentic.
“Proprietary is a good word for us,” Cory
adds, “and that leads to a product that ECPs see
as very different and special, but also that is very
backed up by our service.”
A Big Block in the Stack
Gone are the days of house brands being a
fll-in factor for frame companies and something
to provide a low-price alternative to fll frame
boards. Look at Ray-Ban—the biggest eyewear
brand in the world—and the largest house brand
in optical.
“We have always had a very balanced portfolio approach at Luxottica,” says Holly Rush,
president, Luxottica Wholesale North America.
“An exceptionally strong proprietary offering of
the best-known brands in eyewear such as RayBan, Oakley, Oliver Peoples, and Persol, complimented by the most iconic and relevant fashion
and luxury brands, gives us the best possible
advantage to leverage on both tradition and
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EyecareBu s in e s s. c o m
February 2015
UNDER CONSTRUCTION:
Rebuilding Brand Structures
The are a number of factors forming the building blocks of change in the world
of licensed vs. proprietary brands.
BLOCK 1: RESPONSIVENESS FACTORS
When creating their own brands, frame companies can determine what goes into those brands without concerns about licensor
approval, which can create an environment that’s responsive to the
needs of dispensers and their patients frst.
“Clearly, with proprietary brands, we can work faster and may be
more responsive to the real market needs, as there is one less level
involved,” says Peter Friedfeld, executive vice president at ClearVision Optical. “So
while that may be an advantage, we still need to create the market for our house
brands, and make the same investments that we do for a licensed brand.”
The direct connection between frame company and retailer can also help in
terms of adding technology that is needed in the dispensary but is a total mystery
to a fashion licensor. “What the market can expect from private brands is the
capability to be more and more in touch with the technical requests of the market
frst of all,” says Giovanni Zoppas, CEO of Marcolin.
Christopher Shyer, president of Zyloware, notes that while his company is mostly
focused on licensed brands, it does have proprietary collections based on meeting
specifc niches that don’t necessarily have a license option but do have a group of
potential wearers. “If the opportunity is so much of a niche that it wouldn’t justify a
whole license brand opportunity, or if the product is so technically diferent that it
would be too narrow for a brand, then we’ll consider a proprietary brand,” he says.
BLOCK 2: CONSUMER FACTORS
Instead of fnding a brand that represents them, today’s shoppers
prefer the product ft them, regardless of the name. “In the United
States, consumers are not so concerned as to whether a product
is private label or brand. They seek the product portfolio that will
cover their specifc needs,” notes Tim Eales, director of strategic
insights for IRI, in the report, “Private Label: Balancing Quality and
Value.”
Indeed, a growing segment of consumers is rejecting the big names for the
craftsmanship and small-batch appeal of non-name brands. “House brands are
the biggest growth engine for the optical industry,” says Joseph Tallier, CEO of Ogi
Eyewear. “The end consumer is recognizing the high quality of house brands as
opposed to being victims of licensed names.”
In addition to the demand for independent style, some buyers also object to
spending money for a name. ClearVision’s Friedfeld says, “I do see a change in the
adoption rate of house brands in the market. Today’s consumers are very savvy,
and some just don’t want to pay for the ‘designer’ label. What they want today is
great design, great quality, as well as a relatable concept. The Internet, along with
the speed and accessibility of information, customization, and the ‘individualization of the consumer,’ has contributed to this change in attitude. As consumers
become more accepting of designed product as opposed to being driven by
licensed brand names, the market will follow.”
BLOCK 3: REBALANCING FACTORS
The growth of the Internet as a shopping destination and the growth
of the omni-channel corporate sales philosophy have created a situation that cuts the independent retailer out of the loop as well as the
independent frame maker getting pushed out by brand owners.
“It is only the proprietary brands, exclusively available at a specifc
retailer, that can be a magnet to draw people into its store versus others,
Editoral Series | BRAND OUTLOOK
trend and fully meet the needs of our customers
and the end consumer.”
And Luxottica isn’t the only company with a
signifcant stake in the proprietary brand game
already. “House brands are very important to
ClearVision,” says Friedfeld. “In fact, one of our
largest brands today is the ClearVision brand,
which will celebrate 50 years this year.”
ClearVision and other frame manufacturers use these collections to meet the desires of
an increasingly demanding buying public with
specifc needs.
Big private brands will continue, but those
that drill down to special interests are critical,
Eales adds. “So, while pockets of private label
and national brand growth exist, those pockets
are defned by unique needs and wants at a very
intimate level. Marketers must invest to understand these micro-level opportunities and tailor
their marketing story accordingly.”
Strategic Additions
ClearVision has created a collection of proprietary brands, “each a strategic addition to our
portfolio, from pediatric frames in our Dilli Dalli
collection, to our new high-tech/contemporary
brand, Aspire,” Friedfeld says. “As such, propriety brands have become more important based
on today’s market needs.”
The investment in this business has provided
healthy returns for many companies. “Marchon
has always approached its proprietary brands as
an integral part of our overall business strategy,”
says Claudio Gottardi, CEO, Marchon.
He notes that the company’s Global Collections have grown tremendously. “And we look
forward to continue investing/growing these
compelling opportunities. All offer unique and
different value propositions, and each brand
continues to deliver proftability to the bottom
line.” In fact, this year, Marchon will beef up
Flexon, Gottardi adds, launching a new sunglass
capsule for 2015.
Some companies are not as invested in this
approach, but they see its value. “We at Marcolin
have more than one private brand, but the most
important one in our portfolio is Web,” says
Giovanni Zoppas, CEO of Marcolin.
“Web comes from a heritage of technology. It
was launched the same year as Roberto Cavalli
and was a great success.” As that brand expands
through Europe and Asia and into the U.S.,
the company plans to continue looking at and
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EyecareBu s in e s s. c o m
February 2015
and accrue direct meaning and loyalty to the over-arching banner,” says Meera
Mullick-Kanwar, marketer and author of “The Evolution of Private Branding.”
“I think most of my competitors are going to try to balance—have some
licensed and not-so-licensed, or some licensed and some optical brands that they
are going to try to develop,” says Mike Suliteanu, president of WestGroupe.
“We have begun our journey to double the sales of our existing proprietary
brands, proftably, in the coming fve years,” says Saflo CEO Luisa Delgado. “Our
goal is to reach a healthy and long-term sustainable balance between our proprietary brands and licensed brands businesses. In total, proprietary brands can, by
2020, represent about 40% to 45% of our total sales.”
“Our house brand business is 35% of our gross revenue and we are looking to
increase to at least 50% over the next two to three years,” says Stephen Rappoport, president of L’Amy US.
BLOCK 4: SELF RELIANCE & GROWTH
Having a solid foundation of proprietary brands provides security
for the future as an anchor. ”We always make sure that our house brand
business is quite a large percentage of our overall company,” says Rappoport. “We have a very strong house brand business that is growing
and we will continue to invest in our own brands to grow to make sure
that our overall percentage of our gross revenues are satisfactory and
so we are not so reliant on one or two particular brands.”
It’s also a way to retain freedom of creativity, and that creates the option of
growing a company’s own products in the directions proven successful in the
feld and with innovations created by their own experts.
“It’s pretty scary to rely on a name,” says Suliteanu. “I wouldn’t want to change
the way we make frames to satisfy someone else’s opinion because you have to
get everything approved. As soon as you sign a license, that complete freedom of
creativity is restricted just because of that brand’s values and approval process.
So it would be a difcult decision [to add licensed brands].”
going more deeply into niche-driven proprietary
brands, he notes.
“We absolutely know that having at least one
private brand in the portfolio is very important,”
Zoppas adds. “If there would be opportunity
either to buy or make another private brand
grow up, we would pursue that because we
believe that’s also something important for the
industry.”
In the end, proprietary brands may very well
end up taking frame products to the next level
of quality and creativity as frame manufacturers
strive to catch shoppers’ attention. “Because I
don’t have that name to drive it, I do need that
extra little something on my frame,” Suliteanu
says. “I want someone to open up the sample
bag or their new pair of glasses, and I want a
smile on their face to say, ‘yeah, this is great, this
is refreshing.’”
Next month, Part 3 of this exclusive Eyecare
Business series looks at how license changes in
the frame universe are going to impact daily life
in the dispensary.
FRAME INTRODUCTIONS
What’s In? The latest in frame line extensions
A NEW DIMENSION
Anne Klein eyewear by Altair Eyewear introduces
the launch of the Petite collection. Anne Klein petite
sizes are designed for women with small or narrow
faces and delicate features. With seven new styles
and two size additions, this optical collection ofers
stylish, chic eyewear in both standard and specialty
sizing. Styles include the pictured AK5000, from the
Wild Eyes Collection, that reintroduces a top-selling
stainless steel frame in a new petite size. Warm hues
of mocha, navy, and plum complement a timeless,
wearable shape. Temples are etched with animal
print and the iconic Lion logo.
INFO: altaireyewear.com
SOFTER SIDE OF ALPHA
Morel releases Alpha 33, a women’s concept with
an all-acetate temple from the Lightec collection. The
minimalistic design of the brand is inspired by innovative
technology, company representatives note. All models in
the line are created with the Lightec’s tagline, “Stainless
Steel—Screwless—Lightweight,” in mind.
The handmade acetate is fnely worked in three layers
using color and processes for a shiny, intense exterior and
a brightly colored translucent, matte interior. The frame
is ftted with Morel’s exclusive patented screwless and
springless Alpha hinge system.
Alpha 33 is available in six contemporary shapes: three
full-rim acetate models and three semi-rimless stainless
steel models.
INFO: 800-526-8838, morel-france.com
WESTGROUPE
74
ALTERNATIVE EYEWEAR
COSTA
Onesun Sun-85 | 56/17-135 | Plastic |
Black (Polarized Black Lenses), Crystal
Latte (Polarized Brown Lenses) | Women
INFO: 888-399-7742, alternativeeyes.com
Rooster | Large ft | Co-injected Molded
Nylon | Blackout, Tortoise, Matte Black,
and White with Blue Costa Logo | Men
INFO: 800-447-3700, costadelmar.com
EyecareBu s in e s s. c o m
February 2015
KLiiK Denmark style K-527 | 51/18-140 |
Stainless Steel | Brown Turquoise, Red Melon,
Purple Black, and Black White | Women
INFO: 855-455-0042, kliik.com. For western states
within the U.S., contact Classique Eyewear at
866-604-5700 or classique-eyewear.com