BoB Marley Crag - Wolverine Publishing

MILITARY •WALL
BOB MARLEY
335
334 • PMRP
Bob Marley Crag
C
all
day
1
h
10 mins OK in rain
25 routes
.7
.8
Character
Once a ghost crag full of unfinished routes, hanging ropes, impossible projects, and a handful of short,
awkward roof climbs, this crag has now matured into one of the best in the Red for difficult, pumping rock
climbs. The attention started with the Petzl Rock Trip in 2007 where the longstanding project 50 Words for
Pump was listed as the men’s ultimate route. Some of the best climbers in the world threw themselves at
this beast, and Mickaël Fuselier ended up with the win, confirming a stiff grade of 5.14c. During the trip,
surrounding routes including No Redemption (5.13b), Ultra Perm (5.13c), and Sugar Magnolia (5.13d)
received more ascents in a week than they usually see in a year. A project was sent (MILF Money, 5.13b)
and a new tough line was bolted by Daniel DuLac (El Encuentro, 5.13b ). In 2008, visiting climber Joe
Kinder established a new line between 50 Words and Ultra Perm named Southern Smoke (5.14c) and even
left behind a direct start that is now one of the hot open projects in the Red.
The once-considered-awkward roof routes are now some of the most popular 5.11s and 5.12s around.
Dogleg still stands as the toughest 5.12a in the Red for the vertically challenged, but is now being overshadowed by a better-quality line that branches left after the original novelty start (Demon Seed, 5.12c).
As for easy lines, there’s still not much to be had. However, you probably have a better shot at convincing
your partner to come belay you on Ultra Perm just one more time, since a new trail now puts Drive-By
crag just a five-minute hike away. It’s safe to say that Bob Marley is no longer a ghost crag.
50 Words for Pump
How about 50 words for drama! A project for more
than a decade, this high-quality pumpfest finally
saw a first ascent during the 2007 Petzl Rock Trip.
The route reportedly has a scary and tough clip
in the crux section, which is how it was originally
climbed. Shortly after the FA, Mike Doyle added
two bolts slightly right of the original which prevented having to shift over to make the scary clip.
Some climbers thought this new sequence
brought the route down a letter grade and was
unnecessary, while others argued it now follows
the line of least resistance and the crux of a route
should not be clipping the bolt. This is similar to
what happened with 50 Bucks (Triple Sec) at Muir
Valley (is there something with the number 50
going on!?).
Adam Taylor of Lexington, KY, added even more
controversy to this route by smashing the new
hangers after his project draws were removed
and not replaced from the original bolts for a supposed photo shoot. The climbing blogs exploded
and rap artist Odub even put out a song expressing his strong opinion on the situation. As Steve
Petro once said, “Welcome to Ol’ Kentuck.”
2
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Approach
Drive 12.4 miles south on KY 11 from Miguel’s toward Beattyville. Turn right on KY 498. Drive 1.2
miles to a sharp right curve. Just beyond this curve,
take a sharp right on Bald Rock Road, a good gravel
road, and follow it slowly as it curves left toward a
house, staying left at the first intersection. After 0.3
miles the road turns to gravel and descends a steep
hill. The steep hill is usually drivable in a regular
car but you may have trouble getting back out in
wet or muddy weather. If you have doubts, climb
somewhere else – do not park at the top of the
hill as this area is used for access to oil company
equipment and you are liable to be towed. At the
bottom of the hill you will pass the parking area for
the Motherlode on the right. Remain on the road for
a total of 1.4 miles (0.6 miles past the Motherlode
parking) until you see a wooden sign indicating
the RRGCC parking area on the left. Park here and
walk back out to the road. Cross the road and head
straight up a gravel road for 0.2 miles to reach a trail
that cuts left and uphill to the wall.
Conditions
This crag is a dry, sandy beach. If it’s raining and
you can climb 5.12 or above, you’ll have a full day
of great climbing ahead of you here. The sun shines
directly on this wall, but the steep nature of most of
the routes puts you in the shade and your belayer
in the sun.
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1 Toker 5.11a HHHH
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22
23
v
Walk left from where the approach trail meets the cliff,
past the arete of Sugar Magnolia, to this route, which begins above a large boulder. Stand on the boulder to reach
the initial starting jug, then monkey over the roof to gain
a stance. Climb large plates to an overhanging finish.
70 feet. 8 bolts. FA Jason McCleanen, 2005.
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2 No Redemption 5.13b HHHH
24 25
On the opposing wall right of Toker is this superb technical line with long moves on quality rock.
70 ft. 9 bolts. FA Kenny Barker, 2006.
3 Sugar Magnolia 5.13d HHH
This prominent orange arete is just right of No Redemption. Crank through small edges, then angle left to the
arete and continue up the extremely thin face.
85 ft. 10 bolts. Andrew Gearing, 2006.
4 Demon Seed 5.12c HHHH
This excellent new addition shares the first five bolts and
long moves of Dogleg, then branches left when Dogleg
doglegs right. Climb through continuous long moves
on small holds using the ramp for feet. Requires full
attention and a big set of balls. You’ll need a 60-meter to
get down.
105 ft. 9 bolts. FA Andrew Wheatley, 2009.
5 Dogleg 5.12a HHHHH
Twenty feet right of Sugar Magnolia is a tall, vertical,
orange face with an obvious line of pockets marking
the beginning of this line and Demon Seed. Begin with
gigantic moves between horizontals to reach the sequential face above. Angle right to the anchors. The line of
bolts leading off left halfway up does not have a finish.
90 ft. 10 bolts. FA Unknown.
6 Beeper 5.11d About 20 feet right of Dogleg is an arete with a high
dihedral. Begin on the large boulders near its base. Grab
the arete and follow it over soft rock and up into a thin
crack. Continue up the crack to the anchors. Caution!
Rock turns to crap up high.
70 ft. 8 bolts. FA Keith Moll, 1996.
5
Dogleg
336 • BOB MARLEY CRAG
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7 MILF Money 5.13b HHH
v
See description opposite.
8 Granny Panties 5.12c HH
v
The bolted line just left of Tony’s Happy Christmas Crack.
Boulder through several bolts of quality moves, and finish
on easier choss to the chains. Bolt count approximate.
70 ft. FA Kenny Barker, 2007.
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9 Tony’s Happy Christmas Crack 5.8 HHHv
Just right of the previous line is an obvious hand crack in
a dihedral. Climb the crack to a set of anchors 35 feet up,
or continue over suspect rock and 5.11 climbing to the
anchors on Mas Choss.
80 ft. FA Jack Hume, Tony Tramontin, Steve McFarland,
Gene Hume, David Hume, 1994.
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10 Mas Choss 5.11c HHH
About 15 feet right of Tony’s Happy Christmas Crack
is this slab route with striated holds. Climb some tough
moves to a small roof. Move left at the roof and reach up
to a large flake. Continue up the face to the anchors.
80 ft. 7 bolts. FA Kellyn Gorder, 1996.
11 Route 22 5.12a HHH
Move 15 feet right from Mas Choss to the next slab
line. Climb the small edges and ledges up and right to a
reasonable stance. Angle a little left to a small overhang,
then power over thinning holds to the anchors.
80 ft. 7 bolts. FA Dave Hume, 1996.
9
Tony’s Happy Christmas Crack
12 Fifty Words for Pump 5.14c HHHHH
See introduction for the controversy surrounding this route.
Hike down and around the corner from the previous lines
and you’ll be standing directly beneath this huge, intimidating, steep beast. Good luck.
90 ft. 10 bolts. Equipped by Hugh Loeffler. FA Mickaël
Fuselier 2007.
13 Southern Smoke Direct HHHHH
Project. Climbs straight up through a desperate boulder
problem to join Southern Smoke at its second bolt. Currently an open project. Grade estimated at 5.14c or d.
100 ft. 11 bolts. Equipped by Joe Kinder.
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50 Words for Pump
14 Southern Smoke 5.14c HHHHH
This ultimate stamina route begins on the slab on which
Ultra Perm starts, but immediately transitions left onto
the face for 5.14a climbing up the relentlessly overhanging face to meet up with Ultra Perm just where the hard
climbing begins.
90 ft. 10 bolts. FA Joe Kinder, 2008.
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7 MILF Money 5.13b HHH
v
Tough boulder problem to 5.9 choss. The
line begins with tough pulls on very shallow
pockets, then cuts directly right to meet
up with climbing on sand for the remaining two-thirds of the route. The bolts may
feel awkwardly placed if they haven’t been
shifted around yet.
60 ft. 7 bolts. FA Sean McColl, 2007.
Greg Kerzhner. Photo Dan Brayack.
MILITARY •WALL
BOB MARLEY
339
338 • PMRP
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15 Ultra Perm 5.13d HHHHH
v
One of the best routes east of the Mississippi (or west,
for that matter). Begin on a boulder 20 feet right of the
previous line. Climb the initial face, then move left to an
overhanging wall. Enjoy a few bolts of confidence-building moves on big holds to prepare for the smackdown
that awaits. Dive into a tough boulder problem that
doesn’t seem to let up until you turn the lip. The size of
your fingers may be the difference between you marking
this “hard” or “soft” on your scorecard.
90 ft. 9 bolts. FA Dave Hume, 1997. Equipper: Chris Martin.
Dahlia Ojeda. Photo Keith Ladzinsky.
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15 Ultra Perm 5.13d HHHHH
v
See description above.
16 Horn 5.11d HHHH
v
Walk 30 feet around the corner to the next set of
steep lines in a large overhang. This is the first route
encountered and begins on a boulder. Grab pockets on
the heavily featured face and move left. Continue up the
face to anchors above the lip of a small roof.
50 ft. 5 bolts. FA Chris Martin, 1997.
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17 Flush 5.11d HHH
Start the same as the previous line but head straight up
and over the lip.
50 ft. 4 bolts. FA Chris Martin, 1997.
18 Velvet 5.11d HHHH
Ten more feet right is another steep line of pockets with
anchors just past the lip.
50 ft. 5 bolts. FA Chris Martin, 1997.
340 • BOB MARLEY CRAG
16 to 22 left to right
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Horn to ... Beef
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19 Tacit 5.12a HHHH
This route climbs a lot better than it looks. Move five
feet right of Velvet to the next line, which begins near
a crack above a boulder. Crank up the steep, pocketed
face to a roof. Creep out the roof on large holds and
pull past the lip to a good horizontal. Continue up past a
bulge to the anchors.
50 ft. 6 bolts. FA Porter Jarrard, 1997.
20 Reticent 5.12d HH
21 Blood Bath 5.12c HHHH
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22 Where’s the Beef? 5.12c HHHH
Move 10 feet right to the last route in this area of the
wall. Climb through steep pockets and crimps to a horizontal roof. Pull the roof, making use of sharp pockets,
then crank over the lip to a jug. Continue up easier face
to the anchors.
50 ft. 5 bolts. FA Chris Martin, 1998.
23 Bettavul Pipeline 5.12a HHHH
Five feet right of Tacit is the start to another pocketed line
leading to the large roof. Begin on a boulder and climb
through slightly sharp holds to the roof. Power through a
sequence of pockets in the roof to great holds just over
the lip. Move up the face on small edges to the anchors.
50 ft. 6 bolts. FA Porter Jarrard, 1997.
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22
20
v
Step 10 feet right from the previous climb to some small
boulders marking the beginning of this climb. Grab
pockets and head up the steep wall to a horizontal just
below the roof. Shake out and move through the roof to
good holds just past the lip. Continue up over a bulge on
the headwall to the anchors.
50 ft. 5 bolts. FA Chris Martin, 1997.
Next route right of Where’s the Beef. Begin near a pipeline
that was drilled from the top of the crag and missed by a
couple of feet at the bottom. Race up the steep wall on jugs.
55 ft. 5 bolts. FA Mark Johnson, Drew Cronan, 2006.
24 El Encuentro 5.13b HHH
If only it weren’t a water streak. Hike right about 150
feet from last route listed on the main wall. You’ll drop
down into the lowest part of the valley and up the other
side a bit until you see this gorgeous, slightly overhanging bolted face. Often wet. Bolted and climbed during
the Petzl Rock Trip 2007.
90 ft. 11 bolts. FA Daniel Du Lac, 2007.
25 Tikka Chance 5.9+ HHHH
Hike right about 150 feet from the last route listed on the
main wall. You’ll drop down into the lowest part of the valley and up the other side a bit until you see the first reasonable crack. Climb the crack and face to the lip of the wall.
90 ft. FA John Bronaugh, Jason Burton, 2002.