Get Noterized
Transcription
Get Noterized
Get Noterized by Ken Hulme Photo by Dasha courtesy of www.AndyRobinsonMusic.com Introduction “The more I play and teach the mountain dulcimer, the more I appreciate noter style playing. I started with this style, and months of picking out all those melodies on one string helped make me a strong byear player. That's a skill not usually developed as well in beginners who immediately go to chordmelody style playing. With practice and art, noter playing can be truly virtuostic.” -- Lois Hornbostel Noter & Drone is a very traditional technique of playing the Appalachian dulcimer as well as its European predecessors (hummel, épinette des Vosges, zitter). The technique dates at least as far back as the late 1500s. Noter & Drone is not just for playing "simple tunes with no chords," as someone once said to me. Listen to a hummel or épinette player perform European classical composers' material! Nor is Noter & Drone style only for DAA tuning. It is an effective and beautiful way to play all of the Modal Tunings in any key. You simply cannot get the "haunting whine" of traditional dulcimer ballad playing using fingers, no matter how hard your calluses get. Nor can you get really “zingy” slides. For fast fiddle tunes or slow and stately ballads nothing beats a noter slip-sliding from one end of the fretboard to the other. N&D is much more challenging than just playing chords, and so is not suited to everyone. It demands precise hand control – which requires practice to perfect. You also need to learn about Modes and Modal Tunings, and be comfortable re-tuning your instrument. The Naked Noter Popsicle sticks make good noters. fancy “Wildwood” noter Lurgan Celtic design Pyrex noter There are round noters and flat noters, and even ergonomic noters for folks with hand problems. Many players prefer a noter about the length and diameter of their index finger. Others prefer a tiny stick narrower than the tip of their finger. As with many things dulcimer, the order of the day is “whatever works best for you”. Noters can be made from wood, plastic, metal, glass or other materials. Different materials will give you different sounds. That’s part of the fun – exploring what kinds of sounds you get from what kinds of materials. Traditionally some noters were made from “river cane” and feathers. River Cane (Arundinaria gigantea), the native American bamboo, can still be found along the banks of the Kentucky and Illinois rivers and other streams in the South and Midwest and even into Texas and Oklahoma. Exotic bamboos have been planted almost everywhere in the continental US. Bamboo contains a lot of silica (glass), so it’s very hard, and may be the ideal noter material as it is also light, easy to work and readily available. “Nature’s plastic” - a large turkey or goose feather - gives you both a noter and a plectrum or pick. Choose a primary feather (the long one at the tip of the wing) or center tail feather. The large butt end of the feather becomes the noter. Cut it off just where it starts to change from hollow to solid white, and you’re ready to play. Wooden noters should be made from the hardest wood you can find. The birch dowels sold at lumber yards and hobby shops are barely hard enough. I find it sad that luthiers who charge many hundreds of dollars for their instruments include a nickel’s worth of cheap hardware store dowel for a noter, instead of something appropriate made from the same material as your dulcimer. Oak, cherry, walnut, hickory, and ash are hard enough to last quite a while. Teak, ebony, olive, mesquite, madrone, and padauk are more suitable (but less common) woods. A useful trick for “toughing up” a noter is to soak it overnight in a light penetrating oil such a 3-in-1 (don’t use vegetable oil). Very pretty noters can be made from exotic wood “knife scale” blanks that you see advertised on Ebay and other places. But don't run out and buy exotic hardwoods to make one or two noters unless you just have to! Ask your woodworking friends if you can scrounge in their scrap bins for suitable pieces of hard wood. Glass tubes or solid rods give notes an eerie sound, as do Apache tears and other forms of volcanic glass. Polished stones such as malachite and onyx make beautiful noters. Metal rods, tubes and bars are almost indestructible noters, although brass and copper will be notched by steel strings. Plastic finger splints, shade pulls, swizzle sticks, ballpoint pens, and a variety of tubing and flat stock make very ‘slippery’ noters if the plastic is hard enough. Flat noters are often made from ice cream sticks or tongue depressors, but like dowel they are not quite as hard as could be. They are readily made from a variety of flat stock with a saw and sandpaper. Up to a point, a heavier noter is better than a light one. I have one that is actually the mortar from my malachite molcajete (Mexican mortar & pestle). Its weight makes it fabulous for playing long sessions. Ergonomic noters are individually shaped to the hand or finger configuration of the user. Such noters may incorporate holes for anchoring fingers, bulges to fill palms, or extensions to compensate for lost digits. One simple ergonomic noter has a notch at the string end to prevent the noter from slipping into the middle drone(s). Another is the “noter bun” – a foam rubber and duct tape tube into which most of the noter slips – to take the strain off the noter hand during long sessions. Get A Grip On It! There are two basic ways to hold the noter – underhand and overhand. Neither is better than the other; they’re just different. The Underhand hold is sometimes called the Jean Ritchie method because it was illustrated in her landmark The Dulcimer Book © 1963. This "thumb on top" style is very useful if you have a tall (3/4" or more) fretboard, so your fingers can clear the soundboard. The knuckle of the index finger acts as a guide to keep the noter from going too deeply into strings. (This is the style you see Andy Robinson using at the top of this article.) However, many modern fretboards are only 1/2" – 5/8" tall, and most people have fingers thicker than that! That’s when the Overhand or Galax hold (used in the Galax, Virginia dulcimer playing style) is especially good. Overhand hold. Photo by Elaine VanDeWater Champion Galax style player Phyllis Gaskins using overhand hold on noter. Photo by Marie Shelton. "Hold the noter with the index finger on top, with the side of the end of the middle finger as a brace along the side of the fretboard for stability. Just enough of the noter protrudes to cover the strings..." — Mary M. Mason (student of Phyllis Gaskins), Noter & Quill, Mountain Dulcimer Southwest Virginia Style, © 1995 The Overhand hold works on both shallow and tall fretboards, and with the dulcimer in your lap or on a stand. It also provides good control of noter placement - almost as if the noter is a hard fingertip. As Mason points out, the middle finger also acts as a guide to keep the noter from extending into the middle strings. Editor’s Note: See Phyllis Gaskins’ Feb. ’05 DulcimerSessions article on Galax style noter playing, which includes free written music and a sound file: http://www.dulcimersessions.com/feb05/galax.html It’s Not What You Do, But How You Do It The noter should be parallel to the plane of the strings and at right angles to the fretboard, pressing close to the fret. This means your wrist must be relaxed and flexible as you move up the fretboard. To prevent “clicking and clacking and bumping sounds” the noter must be parallel to the plane of the fretboard. If the nose or tail of the noter comes down first, the result is a “bump” every time you cross a fret. If you have doubled melody strings this is even more important. If the noter isn’t parallel, either the inner or outer string may not be fully depressed, which can create some real discord! You can also get “speed bumps” if you’re pressing down too hard. White knuckles are NOT a requirement for good N&D playing!! The “speed bump” syndrome decreases as you get more comfortable with your noter. You’ll eventually relax your death-grip and start moving more fluidly. At the same time you’ll stop feeling a ‘clunk’ every time the noter crosses a fret. Start slow and work your speed up. We blithely talk about how easy it is to learn to play the dulcimer. And, comparatively speaking that’s true. But we must never forget that it does take playing experience. Forget “practice” – just “play”. Sliding Down the Fretboard of Life The most asked question about Noter & Drone style is "Do you have to pick the stick up and put it back down for each note, or can you just slide the stick along?" The answer, of course, is a resounding "Yes." Picking up between notes versus sliding between notes depends on the effect you want to create or the song employs. If you're trying to keep up with a fiddler, keeping the noter to the strings is the fastest way to play. If you want the song to sound more "stately" when fingerpicking or flatpicking, then by all means pick the noter up between notes. Work at just barely lifting the noter, so as not to waste time and energy moving broadly. While Hammer Ons and Pull Offs take a bit of practice when you finger dance, with a noter, they are simple and crisp – lift or push. An interesting effect is what I call Ghost Noting. Let's say the tab calls for you to play frets 3 5 and 7, with a strum at each fret. Instead, you could Ghost Note this phrase by strumming the 3, sliding to the 5 in tempo without a strum, then sliding to the 7 and strumming. You could even “ghost” both 5 and 7 and delay the strum till the next note. Similar to Ghost Noting are Sliding On or Sliding Off. Basically you play the wrong note and then slide up or down the fretboard to the right note – in the timing of the single note. Some people say I developed this technique because I had trouble remembering where a particular note was! That may have been true once, but now it’s just “my style”! After you've been playing Noter & Drone style for a while, you'll begin to notice that not all Drone Chords are melodious. As you play the scale, especially in Ionian Mode above the 7th fret, the Drone Chords sound less and less pleasing to the ear. An easy solution is to change the angle of attack; not of the noter, but of the pick on the strings. As you go up the scale, strum less and less of the mid and bass drones; so that by the time you pass the first octave, you're playing just the melody string(s). As you come down the scale, play more and more mid- and bass drone until you're playing all strings more or less equally. Come over to the Dark Side…pick up a stick and give Noter & Drone a try for a couple months. You may be glad you did! Here is a tablature arrangement of one of my favorite tunes to play Noter & Drone style. This traditional English folksong, dating back into the 1600s, is a beautiful noter & drone song played slowly and liltingly – no bum-ditties here – let there be spaces between the notes! In fact, I usually play this with older style single direction strums; no back-and-forth. When singing, the last eight bars are the Chorus. The tune has been used by the Royal Marines as a slow march, as a children’s TV show theme in Canada, and as a vehicle for political satire in several English elections! “Early One Morning” Ionian Mode (DAA tuning) Strummed Arranged by Ken Hulme Remember the vows, That you made to your Mary, Remember the bow'r, Where you vowed to be true, Chorus Oh Gay is the garland, And fresh are the roses, I've culled from the garden, To place upon thy brow. Chorus Thus sang the poor maiden, Her sorrows bewailing, Thus sang the poor maid, In the valley below. Ken Hulme’s Story Photo by Marie Shelton. In the early ‘70s I first heard eerie music coming from a small shop in Manitou Springs, CO, and followed it to discover the mountain dulcimer. Bud & Donna Ford still own Cripple Creek Dulcimer Company, where I eventually bought a kit to built my first instrument so that I could learn to play. Although I had some choir and glee club training in high school, I was otherwise musically self- taught for a number of years. In those days there were only a couple of books on playing dulcimer, and I had them both. I taught myself to play in Noter & Drone style, and have been playing that way ever since. Although the ‘70s was a period of dulcimer revival, it wasn’t until years later that I found others to play with regularly. I have since picked up a certain amount of music theory education “on the streets” as it were, from other dulcimer players and builders with whom I have associated. My play list includes several hundred Scots/Irish/English folk and dance tunes; medieval, renaissance, American folk and pop music from the Revolutionary War to Metallica, and tunes from other countries around the world. About 15 years ago I started building mountain dulcimers of my own design – a teardrop shape with a one-piece side. I have since branched out into building and learning to play several other relatively obscure folk instruments as well, including the Psalmodikon (a onestring fretted Swedish ‘fiddle’), wing-shaped Baltic Psalteries (from Finland, Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, etc.), a unique fretted zither invented in 1914 by Georg Stoessel of Cologne, Germany; and reconstructions of 5th - 9th Century European lyres of the type mentioned in Beowulf, found in burials in England and northern Europe. I also play Bass drum for Scottish pipe bands, and the middle eastern doumbek. I have played and taught children and adults privately, at dulcimer festivals and through clubs in Utah, Oregon, Kentucky, Arizona, Colorado, and most recently, the Republic of the Marshall Islands and now Florida. I have also helped organize clubs and festivals in several of those places. I can be contacted through my e-dress, [email protected] Ken Hulme