Hot by Hair`s How March/April 2014


Hot by Hair`s How March/April 2014
Paintbox | Candy Queens
Debut | Paintbox
Candy Queen
Sharing one of her Candy
Queens color confections
with HOT readers, Danielle
Keasling, stylist and owner
of Salon Karma, creates a
melting of purple candy
floss for spring.
Berry Delicious
From the catwalks to the crosswalks, vibrant plum and purple shades are
making bold statements for spring. Fashion-forward and nailing the
hottest trends, Scruples introduces the Blackberry Series from TRUE
INTEGRITY Opalescent Crème
Colour. The collection, which features
a vibrant purple base, includes 3VR,
4VR and 5VR. When used with TRUE
INTEGRITY Conceal levels 3 to 6,
100% gray coverage is achieved.
Added benefits: All TRUE INTEGRITY
shades are formulated with a nutrientrich botanical blend and Scruples’
exclusive Protective Barrier Complex
to safeguard color molecules and
deliver a deeper penetration of color.
Photographer: Candace Perry; Hairstylist and Colorist: Danielle Keasling;
Hair Assistant: Lauren Ajlani; MUA: Emily Sanders
Step 2 Treat hair with Matrix
Total Results Pro Solutionist 5+
Protopak Restructurizing Treatment
(protein strengthener). Rinse,
cleanse and dry hair.
Step 3 Matrix SOCOLOR, 1½ oz.
Clear, ½ oz. 3VR (Darkest Brown
Violet Red) + 2 oz. 10-volume
cream developer: Paint from roots
to mid-shafts.
Step 4 Matrix SOCOLOR, 2½ oz.
Clear, ½ oz. 3VR + 2 oz. 10-volume
cream developer: Paint from midshafts to ends.
Step 5 Do frequent test strands
until you achieve the desired
results. Rinse thoroughly, lightly
cleanse and condition.
HOT March/April 2014
Paint Tools
Product Club introduces a comprehensive balayage tool collection
to make your freehand color applications a breeze. It includes:
Balayage Brush with the perfect bristle length and strength for
freestyle painting; Balayage Paddle with an ideal shape and size
for freehand techniques and a durable hardwood handle; Balayage
Boards with one straight edge and one contoured edge for more
artistic techniques; and
Balayage Film to protect
against color bleed when
doing color blocking or
freestyle applications.
(Note: Product Club
has also just released its
Highlighting Between the
Lines DVD series, which
features a total of six
techniques. The series is part
of our HOT Gifts giveaway
program on page 12. Enter
to win one of six sets valued
at $149 each.)
March/April 2014
Courtesy of Scruples
Step 1 Prelighten with Matrix Light
Master. Roots: 2 scoops lightener +
2 oz. 20-volume cream developer.
Midshafts to ends: 2 scoops
lightener + 2 oz. 30-volume cream
developer. Lift to a uniform pale
yellow. Rinse and lightly cleanse.
Tails | Bells, Brides and Beauty
Bells, Brides and Beauty | Tails
First Impressions
In today’s world, introductions to your bridal services begin online.
By the time a bride contacts your
salon for a consultation appointment,
she’s already researched your
business online. She knows at least
a few things about your wedding
programs, your work and what
brides have posted about you and
your salon on review sites. If you’re
aren’t receiving a flood of inquiries
about bridal services, you need to
take a serious look at how your
online presence can be improved.
Here are a few suggestions for
you to consider:
Do you hear the rustle of satin and lace?
As predictable as flowers in spring, the
wedding season and all of its glorious brides
have arrived. Are you prepared to earn your fair
share of this year’s bridal business? To bolster your
chances of having a busy and profitable wedding season,
HOT editors combed the country in search of the best tips and
tricks of topnotch wedding specialists! Here’s what they had to say.
HOT March/April 2014
Style and Makeup by Wedding Tresses; Photo courtesy of Fusion Studio
Go ahead and
make her day—and
yours—with these
gems of advice.
Photographer: Zoe Christou Welsh; Hairstylist: Danielle Keasling; MUAs: Lauren Ajlani and Ms Rita Janay
Bells, Brides
and Beauty
• Actively post about brides, bridal
services and wedding trends on
social sites like Facebook, Twitter
and Instagram.
• Create a dedicated wedding
section on your website that’s
filled with useful information and
pictures. Regarding the latter, refrain
from posting snapshots that a
bridesmaid took with her iPhone,
as they could actually deter brides
from calling your salon. Instead, only
post professional wedding pictures
of your work.
• Promote catering services during
brides’ beauty services. We have
menus from several neighboring
restaurants, which brides can
choose from in advance of their
big day. This not only makes their
appointments more festive, but
also prevents the wedding party
from being on edge due to too
much bubbly and not enough
food. (
March/April 2014
Tails | Bells, Brides and Beauty
Bells, Brides and Beauty | Tails
Sherri Jessee uses simple rope braids
and soft curls to create a salonworthy style for brides.
Photog: Nathan Mays; Hairstylist and MUA: Sherri Jessee (SherriJessee.
com); Model: Melanie Blankenship; Fashion: The Bridal Path
“When doing hair and makeup for bridal editorials, I usually create
looks that are larger-than-life by working with extreme textures
and super-tight curls. Although these images can be gorgeous
and inspiring to hair and makeup artists, real brides usually prefer
toned-down versions for their weddings. My goal for Romantic
Bride was to create a beautiful yet very realistic photo shoot.
Starting with a base of soft curls and twisted braids, I crafted a
simple, romantic shape accented by delicate makeup and subtle
accessories.” Sherri Jessee (
(Note: View pages 72-75 for more “real” bridal technicals by
Sherri Jessee.)
1 Set hair with a 1¼” curling iron. Lightly brush out with your
fingers before teasing the crown area. Create 3 rope braids on
each side of the head.
2 Including the top rope
braid, sweep the hair in
this area to the back/
center of the head, twist
and pin as shown.
3 Repeat instructions
in Step 2 until all 6
rope braids and the
corresponding hair sections have been
swept back, twisted and
pinned in place.
4 Take enough hair from the
side of the nape to create a
thicker rope braid. Cross over
and back, and pin on each
side. Use one more pin to
tuck and secure the braid at
the back/center of the head.
HOT March/April 2014
Enhance Her Personal Style: If you take a bride too far outside of her comfort zone—even
if she asks you to do it—chances are she won’t be happy with the results. Instead, offer her
alternatives that start with her personal style and then make it more glamorous and beautiful.
Wet-to-Dry Styles: Instead of trying to save time by having the bride arrive with dry, readyto-style hair, start her appointment with a shampoo and treatment to help volumize, smooth or
provide heat protection. This not only allows you to prep her hair as you see fit, but also do a
blow-dry service that builds a strong foundation for the finished style.
Hair Additions: The voluminous styles that are so popular right now can rarely be done by
simply using a bride’s natural tresses. Hair additions not only make lush braids and chignons
possible, but they also save time while making your work look even better. In addition to doing
extension services or ordering a bride’s hair additions prior to her big day, we also keep a
variety of braided extensions on hand to enhance any wedding style—including those worn by
bridesmaids—in a matter of minutes.
Top Volume: Use a micro-crimper at the crown to build lasting volume by ironing the hair from
the root out to 1.5” of the hair shaft. Let the hair cool and then brush out the crimped area to
diffuse the volume. By the time the style is finished, the crimped area will be covered up and
completely undetectable. (
Photographer: Zoe Christou Welsh; Hairstylist: Danielle Keasling; MUAs: Lauren Ajlani and Ms Rita Janay
Romantic Bride
March/April 2014
Last Word | Special Occasion Styles
Special occasion styles can not only create a new revenue
stream for your salon, but also enhance your bottom line.
Photographer: Candace Perry; Hairstylist: Danielle Keasling; MUA: Lauren Ajlani
Danielle Keasling, salon owner, stylist, extensionist, and makeup artist
Like all owners, I’m always looking for ways to improve my salon’s profitability. After
all, once you factor in overhead, commissions, taxes, and product costs, our net
gain from high-ticket services like color is still slim.
I’ve found that the only solution to low profit margins is to focus your marketing
efforts on high-profit services. Haircuts certainly fall in this category, but with so
many women wearing their hair longer and more textured these days, we’re doing
fewer haircuts per week than we did even five years ago. What is in vogue and
offers a respectable profit margin is the modern approach to really dressing hair.
I’m not suggesting that you convert part of your salon to a blow-dry bar, but
rather that you embrace hairdressing as part of your culture and expertise. This is
particularly important when it comes to special occasion styles, which take time
to master, ongoing practice to improve quality and speed and a true passion for
hairdressing. We’ve done this in our salon and the results have been
extremely beneficial to our culture and profitability, and the
quality of clients that are attracted to our business.
Once you commit to this service category, it’s so
important to broadcast it to the world. Why? Most of
your clients weren’t raised in an era when styling appointments were the norm.
If you don’t tell them that you offer amazing special occasion styles, they may
not even realize that you do these services. Get the word out by talking about
them behind the chair, do simple styling techniques on long-haired clients as
part of their regular services; have pictures of your work on the walls and on your
website, as well as Pinterest and Instagram; and redesign your menu to highlight
special occasion styles. You’ll also need to host ongoing workshops that focus
on braiding and upstyle techniques, as well as different ways to work with hair
additions. Creating a digital or paper “red carpet” look book that highlights work
done by your staff, is also a must.
Once you or your staff become proficient at braided styles, for instance,
they can be done (with a shampoo and blow-dry) in about 45 minutes. The
key is practice. Once you start braiding a lot, it’s possible to do them quickly
without feeling like you’re rushing through your work. Reaching this point is where
profitability comes into play. An upstyle or braided ’do is extremely inexpensive in
terms of service costs and quite high in terms of productivity.
(Note: Danielle Keasling is the successful owner of Salon Karma in
South Carolina. She has a booming special occasion hair business,
including wedding services. Read more about Keasling and her tips
for bridal styles on pp. 64-67.)
HOT March/April 2014