Gay Canada Guide R Shirley Editor
Transcription
Gay Canada Guide R Shirley Editor
Published since 2002 | Spring – Summer 2005 www.gaycanadaguide.com gaycanadaguide dition 2005 TM E PARTY PLANNER: L MONTRÉA helps you out! Proudly supported by Discover our true nature 4, Vancouver See for yourself See why Conde Nast Traveler magazine ranks Vancouver as the #1 ‘Best City in the Americas’ and within the top 3 most liveable cities in the world. tourismvancouver.com/gcg gaycanadaguide dition 2005 in this issue Spring – Summer 2005 editor’s TM E thoughts 4, Where’s the best place? As I travel the world people ask what Canadian destination is best for gay travellers. In this issue 4 6 News and deals It’s a question I can’t answer easily. To Americans I simply say, “most anyplace in Canada is gay-friendlier than most parts of the U.S.” I’ve lived in the U.S., and I believe that. 48 Perfect Gay Hours: Toronto Canada’s biggest city has loads for the gay traveller – but what if you’ve only got a two-day layover? 8 Studies show that gay travellers spend billions of dollars each year.* Wine, Wonders and Song Think Niagara is all about falls? Think again. The region might steal your heart. 10 8 Proud to be Cowtown Calgary has Canada’s hottest economy, and some of Canada’s hottest men. And you just might see a Stetson or two. 12 Tying the Gay Knot The dream of gay marriage is reality in Canada. Here’s how to do it – and where to find your very own gay wedding planner. 16 Getting out of the Ottawa Heat The politics are hot. The weather is hot. The bodies on the canal are hot. How to handle all this heat in Canada’s capital city. 18 10 OutGames Special: The Right to be Equal Famed Olympic swimmer Mark Tewksbury shares his thoughts on preparing for the 1st World Outgames Montréal 2006. 20 Totally-gay isn’t the way most of us travel. So Gay Canada Guide looks at all sorts of places and experiences from a gay traveller’s perspective. We continually strive to keep you up to date on the totally gay stuff, but we know that you want other gay perspectives, too. So enjoy unique gay views in this issue on places like P.E.I. and Ottawa. And remember: the only way a place becomes more gay-friendly is for you to travel “out.” Let them know who you are. And gradually we’ll have more and more “best places to go.” The Big Gay Party: Montréal Polish up your French and let Montréal help you create your own kind of fun. 23 Where should we spend that kind of money in Canada? We have a lot of choices. We can travel exclusively gay, visiting only the “gayest” spots. We can blend into the mainstream. Or we can mix it up – perhaps staying at a gay B&B and playing at a mainstream ski resort, which is what most of us do most of the time. – Randall Shirley P.E.I. – Pride on Edward Island Join humourist Richard Burnett for a gay look at Canada’s smallest province. Publisher: Alan Beck, Columbia Fun Maps Ph: 973-275-1700 Email: [email protected] Editor: Randall Shirley Ph: 778-389-2246 Email: [email protected] Advertising: Michael Wile, East Ph: 416-531-1483 Email: [email protected] John Boychuk, West Ph: 604-339-1265 Design: Susan Elliott, McGill Design Group, Australia www.mcgilldesigngroup.com 20 *See story, page 19 Cover photograph: Randall Shirley Model: Urban Cowboy Kev Visit us: www.gaycanadaguide.com Gay Canada Guide presents travel from an objective perspective. Our writers occasionally travel as guests of tourism bureaus or organizations mentioned. We gratefully acknowledge their assistance. Copyright 2005. This publication may not be reproduced in anyway without permission from the publisher, Columbia Fun Maps. No responsibility is accepted by the publisher for the accuracy of information in any part of the text or advertisements in this publication. Photographs used to illustrate editorial or advertisements do not necessarily depict the behaviour or sexuality of those photographed. Gay Canada Guide is published twice yearly and distributed in North America and Australasia with assistance from the Canadian Tourism Commission. WE ARE PROUD TO SPONSOR RENDEZ-VOUS MONTRÉAL 2006. Discover our true nature N ew s & dea L s Attn: Singlet and Speedo Lovers The Pride of Canada Pride celebrations take place all across Canada from spring to early fall. While the big cities host famously huge parties, the efforts of smaller communities can be just as interesting, rewarding, and fun. Be proud wherever you’re going… Charlottetown, PEI, July 9-16 Ottawa, ON, July 1-11 Halifax, NS, July 18-24 Saskatoon, SK, June 10-18 Saint John, NB, July 18-24 Calgary, AB, June 1-12 Montréal, QC, July 25-31 Edmonton, AB, June 17-26 London, ON, July 1-10 Cambridge, Guelph, Kitchener/Waterloo, ON, May 28-June 5 Hamilton, ON, June 12-19 Toronto, ON, June 20-26 Winnipeg, MB, June 2-12 Okanagan, BC, June 18-25 Vancouver, BC, July 23-31 Victoria, BC, July 3 Visit gaycanadaguide.com for web links to these Pride events. On Your Knees… …in prayer, that is! Rub shoulders with over 1,000 faithful from all over the globe in Calgary, July 21-26, 2005. The worldwide “general conference” of the largely gay Metropolitan Community Church will be held in the city’s downtown core. The Hyatt & Fairmont Palliser are official hotels. Events will take place in the hotels and Calgary’s performing arts centre. The conference will celebrate the leadership of the Church’s founder – and a legend in the gay community – Rev. Troy Perry, who is retiring. The conference will be followed by a three-day birthday celebration for Rev. Perry in Banff. Hallelujah! www.mccchurch.org 4 gaycanadaguide 2005 Frontrunners (gay & lesbian running groups) generally meet at a pre-set location on a Saturday morning (sometimes Sundays, and sometimes a weeknight), go for a trot, and then go for brunch. You’ll find Frontrunners in Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto, Peterborough, Ottawa, Montréal, and Halifax. Visit www.frontrunners.org for more info. Gay Swim Clubs/Teams are also all across the country. Don’t go just to look—get in the pool and get in shape! Swim clubs/teams can be found in Vancouver, Calgary, Edmonton, Toronto, Montréal, and Moncton. See www.igla.org. Also, check out Toronto’s gay bowling tourney at www.mapleleaf classic.com, and Toronto gay softball at www.gaysoftball.ca. Group is Fun! All gay group travel in Canada? You bet. Contrary to popular belief, gay cruises are not floating bathhouses, and not everyone on an all-gay trip is 26 with a perfect body. They’re incredibly diverse, and attract guests from all over the world. Check out these 2005 Canadian highlights, and call your travel agent: Parkas and Speedos. Atlantis Events brings an allgay Alaska cruise to Canada this August. The ship, Celebrity Infinity, starts (August 21) and ends the 7-night cruise in Vancouver. Mountie Mountains. Coda Int’l Tours (July 3, Aug. 14) and Alyson Adventures (July 30) both have all-gay Canadian Rockies adventures. You’ll hike, bike, canoe, or raft. You might expect to see Dudley Do-Right come riding by in Canada’s mountain paradise. Girls Gone Wild. Olivia Vacations takes women only hiking and exploring in spectacular Banff and Jasper National Parks, August 15-20. Newfound-fun in Newfoundland. Toto Tours has chartered the small sailing ship Concordia for their all-men adventure cruise through the beautiful fjords and shoreline of eastern Canada, July 29 – August 6. PIC: TOURISM VANCOUVER PIC: ODETTE PELLETIER / TOURISME QUEBEC It’s easy to stay in shape and meet people when you travel in Canada – and it’s not cruising at the gym! The gay/lesbian sports groups listed below love to have visitors. PIC: ALBERTA ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT Two Ski Weeks! Ok, it’s a bit early for skiing. But since you might already be planning next winter’s holidays, you’ll want to know that Canada now has two gay ski events—the long running “Altitude” (www.outontheslopes.com) at Whistler, near Vancouver (late January), and the newer “Powder & Pride” (www.ubproductions.com) at Lake Louise, near Calgary (early April). Mais Oui! Montréal OutGames Pulls Them In With less than 500 days to go to the first ever OutGames, Montréal organizers have surpassed 4,000 registrants from 85 countries! From aerobics to wrestling, and choirs to square dancing, this festival of sport and culture is guaranteed to be like none before it! Packages have been created by travel organizers from all over the globe to help you get there and put a roof over your head. There’s still time for you to sign up and be part of this exciting event. Just visit www.montréal2006.org for all the details. Do they have rainbow flags on the bumper? Renting a car has often been frustrating for gay couples, since the rental companies treated us as two separate individuals, and usually required an additional driver fee. Avis has changed all that. Rent with them, and your partner is automatically included as an extra driver. Avis considers “life partner” equal to spouse, and their website notes “The above additional drivers are considered ‘authorized drivers’ and need not be present at the time of rental nor do they need to sign an additional driver form.” www.avis.com. Kudos also go to Hertz for making us equal (although just like straights, you’ll need to be a member of their renter’s club). The other rental companies aren’t as straight forward. If you choose to reserve with them, ask about their policies, and tell them you expect your life-partner or same-sex-spouse to be automatically included as an additional driver at no charge. Pope to Appear at Same Sex & Marriage Show Check out everything gay, including a special section on same-sex marriage, at the Same Sex Show, complete with wedding fashion shows, and even an appearance by singer Carole Pope. The show runs June 23–24, 2005 during Pride, at the Toronto Metro Convention Centre. Check www.samesexshow.com. We strive for accuracy in our information. However, Gay Canada Guide assumes no responsibility for the accuracy of dates, times, venues, or prices that may be listed. Times change. Prices go up. Organizations cancel events. Call, email, or check an organization’s website before confirming your travel plans. We apologize to any community not listed. Please send information on future news and events to [email protected]. The information in this section is provided free, based on our research. Gay Canada Guide doesn’t endorse any travel provider. Discover Canada by train To visit places of epic beauty and discover how inspiring this country truly is, come aboard VIA Rail Canada. With huge picture windows, panoramic dome cars and cosy accommodations, VIA trains bring you the best of Canada in comfort and style. Call your travel agent or visit www.viarail.ca for more details. For details, visit us at www.viarail.ca, contact your travel agent or call VIA Rail Canada at 1 888 VIA-RAIL (1 888 842-7245) TTY 1 800 268-9503 (hearing impaired) TM Trademark owned by VIA Rail Canada Inc. DAY ONE 3.00p.m. Arrive at Toronto Pearson International Airport. Strangely, taxis aren’t allowed to pick up at the airport, so catch a limo to town. They work on flat rates – be sure you confirm your rate with the driver. 11:00p.m. Continue your evening of refined taste at Statler’s, Toronto’s only gay piano bar, (471 Church). It’s more of a sit-and-listen than a sing-along place, and the talent has never wowed me. But it’s a pleasant spot to reminisce about the excellent theatre you’ve just seen. Home early for bed, because tomorrow is a Big Girl Day! 3:45p.m. Check in at Gloucester Square Inns, (aka Cawthra Square) in the heart of Toronto’s Gay Village (rates start at $125/night). This elegant property comprises three different Victorian houses, well known among Torontonians (www.gloucestersquare.com). Host Ric Tremain has lovingly restored the common areas and filled them with period furnishings. If B&Bs aren’t your thing, there are excellent gay-friendly mainstream hotels nearby. Call ahead to Fire On The East Side (6 Gloucester St.) for a dinner reservation. 4:30p.m. Take a twirl around the Gay Village, centred around Church and Wellesley streets. You’ll find a solid assortment of bars, shopping, coffee shops and by-the-slice pizza joints. It’s a friendly neighbourhood where you’ll be comfortable holding hands. If it’s a weekday, you’ll be just in time to see the locals parade home from work. 6:00p.m. After a quick freshen-up, dinner is just down the street from your inn. The food at Fire On The East Side is both upscale and down-home. The quality is excellent at very reasonable prices. Your entrée will be substantial. The meat loaf is delicious. DAY TWO 8:00a.m. Off to bustling St. Lawrence Market for breakfast. If you’re there on a weekend, there’ll be lots of pretty boys and girls to cruise. The market is over 100 years old, and is in a fabulous brick barn-like building. Have sit-down breakfast at Paddington’s Pump, or nibble your way vendor-by-vendor, with fresh baked goods, fruit, cheese, and such. There’s also plenty of crafts and local bric-a-brac for sale. 9:30a.m. Outside the market, walk west on Front Street to admire Toronto’s “Flatiron” building. It’s about half the size of NYC’s, but creates a perfect spot for picture-taking with the CN Tower and Toronto’s skyline in the background. Close by is the Hockey Hall of Fame (30 Yonge St.), which may get you lesbians excited (if they had locker room films the 48 PERFECTLY GAY HOURS IN TORONTO Join editor Randall Shirley for a quick visit to Canada’s most populous city. 8:00p.m. Grab a cab, and head to the theatre (you reserved tickets weeks ago, right?). Toronto claims to be the third theatre capital of the Western World, behind New York and London. Generally, there are 2–3 Broadway-scale musicals playing at any given time, and they are excellent. Top rate musicals coming up this summer season include Evita and Les Miserables (www.mirvish.com), and Ain’t Misbehavin (www.canstage.com). 6 gaycanadaguide 2005 A gay man could hardly have created more camp than you’ll find at Honest Ed’s – a true Toronto institution. boys would like it too). The guys might prefer the many antique shops along nearby Queen Street East. 10:30a.m. Walk to Union Station, where you can go underground to the CN Tower, and shell out $19 for a spine-tingling ride to the top of the world’s tallest structure. On a clear day, you can see forever, or at least to America. Don’t miss the glass floor where you can look straight down 1,122 feet. You’ll see the Toronto islands nearby in Lake Ontario – high-power binoculars will let you see the naked bodies on Hanlon’s Point Beach. Noon Low-carb beer and chicken Caesar salad at one of many Queen’s Quay restaurants, at an outdoor café overlooking furnishings, Red Tea Box (696) where you’ll ogle spectacularly decorated cakes, and Cabaret (672), a glorious consignment shop where you’ll find those Rock Hudson silk PJs you’ve been longing for. Each of these is truly unique and worth exploring. Take a break at Dufflet’s dessert shop (787), home of Toronto’s finest sweet treats. 3:30p.m. Art Gallery of Ontario (317 Dundas, known locally as the AGO). This stately structure is being doubled in size, with architecture by Frank Gehry. Spectacular. 4:45p.m. Walk to nearby 50 Bloor Street West, one of Toronto’s swishy shopping zones. If the weather’s nasty, head into the underground level of shopping. Enjoy a cappuccino at Holt Renfrew’s swank coffee bar. Zara (the European Gap) might just have a little frock you need. 6:00p.m. Cab to the Village. You’re headed OUT tonight, so make sure you’ve got the wardrobe! Continue your search for the perfect outfit at Out On The Street (551 Church). This is a great clothing store with adult supplies in the basement (amazingly low lube prices!), not to mention cute staff. 7:00p.m. Dinner in the Village at Zelda’s (542 Church). This Toronto institution serves up a value-priced meal – not haute, but filling. Fare is burgers, sandwiches, salads, and such. Zelda’s hosts a lot of drag shows of varying quality. Sometimes they’re hilarious, sometimes you just want to gulp down your burger and run. 8:30p.m. Thirty-minute disco nap, a shower, and a costume change. Lake Ontario and the marina. There are lots of good food choices along the quay, and it’s a great spot to relax. 1:00p.m. Choose an option: sun or shop. For sun, you head to the above-mentioned Hanlon’s Point Beach where you can shed your clothes and discreetly ogle and be ogled. It’s a mixed nude beach, but the gay quotient is very high. Shop option: Catch a cab to Queen Street West (at University), for eclectic shopping. Especially fun are Morba (665 Queen St. W.) selling an amazing assortment of 60s and 70s retro 10:00p.m. Your bar crawl begins at Woody’s. Their distinct black awning is a regular feature on Queer As Folk. It’s friendly, and if you spot someone you like, that may determine your next bar (or if you need one). Dancing at Fly? Leather at Black Eagle? Or perhaps Remington’s (377 Yonge), Toronto’s gay strip bar. Bring lots of cash – there’s plenty of hotties here working for your tips. (A private “dance” will cost you $20+). Now it’s really late. If you’re of such a mind, several bathhouses are nearby. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDALL SHIRLEY EXCEPT PRIDE SHOT TAUB/ONTARIO TOURISM & PIC OF ZELDA BY BRUCE MACNEIL. Is that the CN Tower… or is Toronto just happy to see you?! DAY THREE 9:30a.m. Drag your sorry butt out of bed and check out. Have the Inn keep your luggage. Now cure your hangover with a mimosa and eggs benedict at Hair of the Dog (425 Church). 10:30a.m. Catch a cab to 581 Bloor where you’ll experience the campiest spot ever created by a straight guy: Honest Ed’s. It’s a shopping extravaganza. They sell everything, although most of it won’t be up to your standard. It is absolutely hilarious and loads of fun … for about 15 minutes, after which you walk (or cab) quickly on to a gay man’s dream: the nearby Bata Shoe Museum. 11:30a.m. Spend an hour in fantasyland as you view Bata’s spectacular collection of shoes throughout history, including pairs worn by Marilyn Monroe and Elton John. 12:30p.m. Get a quick lunch at Five Alarm Diner (555 Church), a gay nod to the fire station. Fun. 1:30p.m. Grab your bags, and catch a cab to the airport. Check in for your flight, then spend a few minutes absorbing Pearson International’s sparkling new masterpiece, Terminal One. It ran millions over budget but in the strangely competitive world of airport architecture, it’s up there with the best. 3:00p.m. Sleep soundly on the plane home! t You’ll never get lost with Columbia Fun Maps’ Toronto Edition! gaycanadaguide 2005 7 WINE, WONDERS AND SONG NIAGARA HAS IT ALL The popularity of the sleeper hit Sideways has made California’s wine country one of the “must-see” locations on a trip to the WestCoast. Canada’s own wine country, nestled in the heart of the Niagara region between Toronto and the CanadaU.S. border also boasts an impressive number of wineries, and unique vintages all of its own. By Heather Donaldson W ith fabulous spas, fantastic dining, professional theatre and gracious bed and breakfast accommodations to stop at along the way, Ontario’s wine country is no less inviting than its American cousin. Winston Churchill called his trip down the Niagara Parkway in the 1930s “the prettiest drive in Canada.” Spanning some 45 kilometres from Fort Erie, Ontario, where the Peace Bridge crosses the Niagara River to Buffalo, New York, down to Niagara-on-theLake, the drive features elegant homes, picturesque fruit stands, beautiful scenery and some of the country’s top wineries and bed and breakfasts. Niagara-on-the-Lake bears a stunning resemblance to the English countryside, and has the quaint antiquity of St. Andrews in Scotland. Fantastic golfing, art galleries, the Shaw Festival Theatre and epicurean treasures (the Prince of Wales Hotel, while pricey, is an absolute must, 8 gaycanadaguide 2005 even if it’s just for a quick break from the shops or an after-show drink), makes Niagara-on-the-Lake one of the most popular day trips for people visiting southern Ontario. Spa getaways feature “a deux” treatments for couples, allowing for some together time before a leisurely stroll through the Old Town, a night at the Shaw, or taking a trip down the Parkway to try their luck at the Niagara Fallsview Casino Resort. Driving from Detroit or Chicago? Consider a stop to sample the wine at Canada's southernmost point, Pelee Island, in the middle of Lake Erie. www.peleeisland.com Although it is a community staunchly rooted in tradition and its Germanic Mennonite roots, Niagara-on-the-Lake has become one of the most popular destinations for gay and lesbian travellers who want to take a break from the fast pace of Toronto, or the carnival-like atmosphere of Niagara Falls. And with good reason, said Eva Kessel, who owns and operates the Grand Victorian B&B on the Niagara Parkway just a few minutes outside of town. “They seem to co-exist quite happily,” she said of the two seemingly opposing lifestyles. “There’s a really active gay community here, and there are many things in town specifically for gay visitors. I’ve heard there are even a couple of gay B&Bs.” Kessel may be coy about naming her competition, but she’s not shy about saying why she has drawn more gay travellers to her sprawling Victorian mansion in the past year. “I think the gay couples who have stayed here have stayed because of the privacy,” she said. “I think B&Bs are very attractive for the gay community, because it’s a very private, very intimate atmosphere.” The same applies to the gay and lesbian weddings she has hosted. “I think for many people, gay weddings are still very unusual, and so for a (gay) couple to have a private wedding, a B&B is a very good choice,” Kessel said. “I think doing a gay or lesbian wedding in a setting like this instead of in a commercial hotel is a great option, because the couple isn’t sharing the venue with 300 other hotel guests who may point and look at them. It takes away the gawk factor.” And it doesn’t hurt that Kessel’s significant other, Klaus Reif, runs Reif Estate Winery right next door. Tour Ontario's wineries such as Pelee Island, sample decadent cuisine, and catch brilliant theatre at the Shaw Festival ... all in one day! and they didn’t have to go far to sample the wines,” she said. “Plus we work with a number of chefs, so they were able to get fantastic meals.” Inside the Old Town is the Shaw Festival, currently gearing up for its 2005 season, which begins in May. Nineteenth and 20th century plays by George Bernard Shaw such as Pygmalion are the theatre’s mainstays, but the works of his contemporaries are also regular features. Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest has met to rave reviews, and this year, Shaw’s You Never Can Tell and Major Barbara, Somerset Maugham’s The Constant Wife and musical revivals of Gypsy, and Happy End by Kurt Weill and Bertold Brecht are among the 10-show lineup. With 12 generations of winemaking behind him, Reif brought his German roots to Canada to start a winery in Ontario’s wine region, and now specializes in some of the top VQA (Vintner’s Quality Alliance, wines made with 100 per cent Ontario-grown grapes) table wines in the world. He’s garnered dozens of awards, including the Best Canadian Winery award at the International Wine and Spirit competition in London, England in 2002, three years after VinItaly bestowed Reif Estates with the same honour. Kessel said the two gay weddings she performed hinged in no small part on the proximity of the winery, and the quality of the wines. “Both told us that the success of their wedding, and their reason for choosing us for the setting, is because Klaus is right next door Kessel said many of the gay patrons who have stayed with her have enjoyed nights or afternoons at the Shaw, followed by meals at the Prince of Wales, Queens Landing and other fine-dining establishments in Town. “I think many of the gay people who visit Niagara-on-the-Lake enjoy the thriving arts community, and enjoy nights out at the theatre,” Kessel said. “From what I’ve seen, they have larger disposable incomes, so they aren’t afraid to invest a couple of hundred dollars a person to have a nice evening out with dinner and a show. Plus they are very discerning, so a night out at the Shaw for them is a very nice experience.” t Heather Donaldson is a Niagara region writer. PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ONTARIO TOURISM Why can’t hotels read my mind? Learn the true meaning of extra sensory perceptions... luxurious bedding turned down 'just so', hard-to-find theatre tickets appearing magically at the door, exquisite cuisine uncovering hidden passions, your favourite shops materializing mere steps away. With a weekend package at the Met, this intuitive blend of luxury and leisure has never been so attainable. Visit www.metropolitan.com. 10% off M E T R O P O L I TAN TORONTO the lowest available rate with a room upgrade* 108 CHESTNUT STREET TORONTO C A N A D A T 1 800 668 6600 www.metropolitan.com * Quote Code PROGCG when booking . Rate is valid until December 30, 2005. Subject to availability. Rates do not apply to groups or volume contracted rates. Taxes and gratuities are not included. CALGARY’S “ C O S M O P O L I TA N C O W B O Y S ” While cowboys, the Wild West, and oil wells still dominate the images of Calgary, this booming prairie city has developed a true “cosmopolitan cowboy” flavour. In Calgary, you’ll even find gay cowboys drinking cosmopolitans! By Todd Hirsch ig a little deeper past Calgary’s smallc conservative veneer and you’ll find a thriving gay and lesbian community. With the city’s population having nearly doubled over the past thirty years (now pushing one million), Calgary’s cultural and social diversity has really expanded. D Unlike other large cities, Calgary’s gay community is not anchored by an obvious street or “village”. In Calgary, it is much more subtle. But like all good things in life, it takes a bit of effort to find, and it’s worth it when you do. The world-famous Calgary Stampede is usually the first thing that comes to mind when people think of Calgary. This year’s Stampede is July 8-17 and offers some of the best rodeo action (and chances to view nice butts in Wranglers!) in the world. The Stampede tends to overshadow anything 10 gaycanadaguide 2005 else happening in the city for 10 days, and hotel rooms are tough to find. But while it is a great party and most local gays hit at least one night of Stampede, there’s an entirely different rodeo for Calgary’s gay world: the Canadian Rockies International (Gay) Rodeo, July 1-3. You’ll see the Wrangler butts of the Stampede, but in a gay format! It’s put on by the Alberta Rockies Gay Rodeo Assoc., ARGRA (www.argra.org), and like the Stampede, visitors come from across Canada and the U.S. These guys and gals are the real thing. Real cowboys, real boots, real hats! The weekend takes place on a real ranch at Symon’s Valley, just north of the city. In addition to the buckin’ broncs, there’s camping (the mind reels), dining, and lots of dancing. It’s an amazing time to experience sizzlin’ hot cowboys in action. Not only does ARGRA host a major rodeo, they hold monthly dances throughout the year – complete with country music and line dancing earlier in the evenings. You’re guaranteed to find a cutie who will take you twirlin’. But what about the “cosmopolitan” side? The eating, drinking, clubbing and shopping scene in Calgary offers some great choices for gays and lesbians visiting the city. If you need a shopping fix, Calgary’s downtown has everything you need. A series of shopping centres are connected by above-ground walkways (called Plus 15s). You’ll find department stores and all the usual chains. If the weather’s good, lovely Stephen Avenue Mall can be peoplewatching heaven. For funkier shopping, 17th Avenue has interesting shops all along. You might enjoy a visit to Priape (1322 – 17 Ave SW), for all things gay – especially club wear, leather, and a huge assortment of “reading materials.” Calgary’s restaurants have earned high praise for interesting use of local wild game and produce. While there really isn’t a “gay restaurant” there are several excellent, gay-friendly spots (most of the staff and clientele are gay anyway, so no one cares if you lose control and brush your partner’s hand while reaching for the salt). A few of the best are Divino Wine & Cheese Bistro (113 – 8 Ave SW), Brava Bistro (723 – 17 Ave SW), The Living Room (514 – 17 Ave SW), and Gypsy (817 – 1 St SW). All have excellent menus, stylish decor, and servers that are easy on the eyes! Reservations are highly recommended. So it’s that awkward time around 10:30 p.m., when dinner is over but it’s too early for dancing. Calgary has some great places for “the first drink” before you hit the clubs. (Love it or hate it: Calgary bars allow smoking). Try The Backlot (209 – 10 Ave SW) for an unpretentious, gay pub setting. It has two (smallish) levels, a pool table upstairs, and a cute little patio when weather is good. Martini bar Ming (520 – 17 Ave SW) is more stylish but not exclusively gay. Money Pennies (1742 – 10 Ave SW) is a lesbian institution in the city, with casual, rustic ambiance and karaoke some nights of the week. Calgary’s newest gay dance venue, The Twisted Element (1006 – 11 Ave SW) has scored bigtime with the clubbers. It’s definitely on the twink end of the spectrum, but still attracts a good mix of people. For the largest crowd, the cutest guys, and the most energy, you can’t beat it. Get there before 11p.m. or you will have to queue. Metro Boyztown (213 – 10 Ave SW ) plays a variety of club, house, and techno music, but has lost a lot of its crowd lately to The Twisted Element. As a way of gaining back some of its market share, Boyztown has recently introduced “Fever,” a well-needed after-hours party on Saturdays. It starts at 11p.m. but goes until long after the other bars close. No alcohol and an $8 cover charge after 2a.m. Detour (318 – 17 Ave SW) has perhaps the coolest, edgiest music in the city and by far the most interesting venue with two dance floors (each with its own DJ). But much of the clientele Calgary’s Stephen Avenue Mall is full of hotties at lunchtime! seems to be straight, 18-year-old girls. It seems that the cool factor has worked to the disadvantage of Detour. The Calgary Eagle (424a – 8 Ave SE) fashions itself as a bear and/or leather bar. No dancing, and the music volume actually permits conversation. The crowd is older and relaxed. While leather or military outfits are not mandatory, don’t show up in Dockers and a turned-up collar pink Polo shirt. Jeans and a tshirt are perfectly acceptable. It’s in a rough part of town, though, and sometimes cabs are hard to get in that neighborhood, so watch out. For ongoing events in Calgary, the Apollo, Friends in Sports group offers year-round opportunities to meet others and get active. They offer activities like badminton, volleyball, curling (sort of shuffleboard on ice), and golf. Best of all, if you want a day hike in the nearby Rockies – and you should – their hiking group would be glad to take you along. Apollo also sponsors a huge gay sports festival, called the Western Cup, every Easter weekend. Many of Apollo’s events are open to drop-in guests (www.apollocalgary.com). Whether you’re after cosmopolitans, cowboys, or both, you’ll find them in this booming prairie city. t Calgary writer Todd Hirsch is a suit-wearing economist by day. He admits to owning a cowboy hat and a pair of boots. Check out Columbia Fun Maps’ new Calgary/Alberta map! CALGARY COMES WAY OUT No one can quite explain it, but Calgary is bursting out of its conservative closet this year by hosting three major, international gay conferences. The International General Conference of the Metropolitan Community Church/MCC (see news item, page 3). The International Gay Rodeo Convention, October 20–23, 2005. ARGRA is the host association for this event. The International Gay Bowlers Organization (IGBO). The IGBO Mid-Year 2005 Event (November 8–14) will include the IGBO board meetings, lots of tournaments, socializing, and a big dance at the Calgary Westin Hotel. The event celebrates the IGBO’s 25th anniversary PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY ALBERTA TOURISM. COWBOY PHOTO BY RANDALL SHIRLEY. THE PERFECT CALGARY TRIP “Should I go to the Stampede or the Gay Rodeo?” It’s a frequent question. The best answer: both! The Gay Rodeo is always the first weekend in July (Canada Day holiday, and handy for Americans, too), and the Stampede always starts the following weekend. So catch the Gay Rodeo, spend a week exploring nearby national parks like Banff, and return to Calgary for the start of Stampede before catching your flight home. – Ed. gaycanadaguide 2005 11 By Margaret Webb Let me just start by saying that I am very, very concerned about this gay marriage thing. To bone up on research for this article (and hey, I admit it, my girl and I, we’ve been thinking…), I went to a gay wedding expo in Toronto. The first thing I encountered was a big hairy dufus of a straight guy telling me he was a gay wedding planner. “Er…well…” he mumbled, he wasn’t gay and he wasn’t exactly a wedding planner either. His wife runs the wedding business, eh. And, no, they’ve never done a same-sex wedding, but they’d sure like to get in on the business. So, I asked, what are gay couples looking for in a wedding? Tying the GayKnot “Ah,” he responded, relieved by my slow-pitch question, that’s easy! “Gay couples want pretty much the same thing as straight couples.” See what I’m worried about? Why on earth would I have divorced my husband and spent a year on the therapist’s couch if I simply wanted the same thing? Gay activists and lavender lawyers have won the right for gays to marry in the provinces of British Columbia, Ontario, Quebec, Saskatchewan, and the Yukon. Our federal politicians have, hopefully, but a few T’s to cross to extend the right to gays nationally. The last task falls to us regular, silly-in-love gay folks. We must turn this stale, tired and all-too-traditional institution on its square head and make it into something fabulous, personal, romantic, and, oh, I don’t know, queer. Or, I ask you, why bother? Lucky for us, getting married in Canada can be as scintillating as your Wilde imagination can conjure – thanks to a few pink pioneers. They readily offered up tips on how to get hitched in our three gayest provinces. BRITISH COLUMBIA Imagine getting married under a 1,000-yearold rainforest cedar. Or on the gay end of Vancouver’s famous Wreck Beach (clothing optional). Or at the top of Vancouver’s Grouse Mountain, a ski hill in the city. Taylore Darnel and Daiana Leask, partners in life and in Belles and Balls, 12 gaycanadaguide 2005 (www.bellesandballs.com) have been planning same-sex weddings in BC for the past year (prior to that, Darnel worked as a straight wedding planner for 15 years). They say most of their gay clientele are attracted to BC for its incredible nature. On the legal side, with identification (preferably a passport), you can obtain a marriage license in about 20 minutes, for C$100, at the Office of Vital Statistics and, for about another $150 or so, be married by either a gay or gay friendly clergy or marriage commissioner. Then there’s the bash. Belles and Balls have transformed a mansion for a Cole Porter-themed wedding and a hotel room into a chapel for two American men with just $1,500 to spend. For the honeymoon, Belles recommends hiking, kayaking or killer-whale watching in the Queen Charlotte Islands; a sipping tour of the Okanagan wine region; a car trip through the Rockies or skiing or mountain biking at Whistler Ski Resort. ONTARIO Ontario became the first province to sanction gay marriage, in 2003. Rita Leonard and Paula Rutledge of Pride Bride (www.pridebride.com) are based in Winnipeg but have planned hundreds of weddings all over Canada, including Ontario. Their motto is to help couples do their own thing, where they want to do it, then to arrange gay-owned or gay friendly vendors to help pull off the ceremony. They helped a gay couple tie the knot on a yacht, two cowboys get married home-onthe-range and, one of their favourites, two small-town gals get married in their small home town – Pride Bride ran block on homophobic vendors and sussed out the friendlies. Toronto – Canada’s largest city and the most multicultural place on this planet – offers sophisticated big city fun. With passport identification, you can obtain a marriage license at Toronto City Hall for C$130 and get married at City Hall for $155 (416-363-9248) or by gay or gay friendly clergy (Pride Bride has a list). Top left: Emma and Beryl came from the UK to tie the knot overlooking Vancouver’s English Bay…doesn’t get more romantic than this! PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID ELLINGSEN Above: Lance and Alex used Belles & Balls to help plan their Canadian wedding. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JANET RERECICH / WWW.IMAGEMATTERS.CA For the honeymoon, Pride Bride recommends staying at a gay-owned bed and breakfast inn. Pride of Niagara (www.prideinn.com) is located in the world honeymoon capital of Niagara Falls. Cedar Stone is a rural retreat just outside of Toronto, handy to hiking trails on the Niagara Escarpment. Consider also a stay right in the heart of Toronto, the Sheraton City Centre or Day’s Hotel welcome you. French offers the romance; Quebec’s civil code legal system throws up the road blocks, for both straight and gay couples. Lawyer Louis Charron can help out-of-town couples through the legal red tape and, as president of Quebec’s Gay and Lesbian Chamber of Commerce, also recommend gay vendors to organize the ceremony, party and honeymoon. He’s had so many requests for help that he’s becoming a wedding consultant by default The chief obstacle for out-of-towners getting married in Quebec is the province’s legal system. Couples must meet with a notary to fill out a questionnaire and file notice of marriage banns for 20 days before getting married. That means two trips to Quebec or a very long stay. QUEBEC For the honeymoon, Quebec offers plenty: a romantic stay in old Quebec City, the only fortified city in North America; adventure thrills (kayaking, canoeing, mountain climbing, skiing) in mountain ranges just north and south of the city; or a relaxing stay at the province’s plethora of romantic country inns. Everywhere feels gay friendly here. t There’s no more romantic – or difficult – place to be married in Canada. Being predominately Toronto writer Margaret Webb can get married without leaving town. Canada. It’s a huge, diverse country with gays and lesbians throughout. Look closely. You’ll find gay fishermen in the Maritimes, gay farmers in the prairies, and gay cowboys in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains. Capital: Ottawa, Ontario General Gay Canada Websites: www.gaycanadaguide.com www.gaycanada.com www.queercanada.ca www.travelcanada.ca www.travelgaycanada.com www.cglcc.ca (Canadian G&L Chamber of Commerce) Largest Cities: Toronto, Ontario (pop. 4.6 million) Montreal, Quebec (pop. 3.4 million) Vancouver, British Columbia (pop. 2 million) Ottawa, Ontario (pop. 1 million) Calgary, Alberta (pop. 930K) Edmonton, Alberta (pop. 930K) Population: 31.6 million (at 10%, that’s over 3 million gay & lesbian Canadians!) Area: Over 9,000 kilometers from east to west. PIC: TOURISME QUEBEC GayCanada Canada Facts Quebec The North YUKON TERRITORY There’s plenty to do in Canada. Virtually all regions offer amazing outdoor possibilities. The cities offer excellent cuisine, theatre, music, shopping, sports teams, and nightlife. Each region has its own variety of pride festivals and other gay events. Canada is among the world’s most gay-friendly countries. That’s not to say everyone is super friendly. But in general, Canadians are far more tolerant of different opinions and beliefs than many other Western nations. Canada often leads the world on gay-positive laws, including marriage and immigration for same-sex partners of Canadians. NUNAVUT Whitehorse NORTHWEST TERRITORIES Yellowknife Ontario BRITISH Churchill COLUMBIA ALBERTA SASKATCHEWAN MANITOBA Edmonton British Columbia Banff Okanagan Calgary Saskatoon Vancouver The most populous province in Canada, Ontario is home to the nation’s capital and largest city. The Toronto region is a megacity, with a thriving gay village (Church Street). Farther south is the spectacular Niagara region, with wineries, charming Niagara-on-the-Lake, and the Falls. The province borders four Great Lakes, and is peppered with friendly small towns and “Cottage Country.” Stratford is home to a world-renowned summer theatre festival. General: www.ontournet.com Toronto: www.torontotourism.com, www.torontopronto.com, www.gayguidetoronto.com Ottawa: www.ottawatourism.ca, www.gayottawa.com London: www.londontourism.ca Central Ontario: www.centralontario.com Niagara O.T.L: www.niagaraonthelake.com St. John’s QUEBEC Prince Edward Island NEW BRUNSWICK K Quebec City Winnipeg NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR Goose Bay Regina Victoria PIC: TOURISM VANCOUVER/JOHN SINAL This province features a wide variety of landscapes – semi-arid desert, rugged mountains, lush rainforest, and stunning coastline. In the “interior,” you’ll find the gayfriendly Okanagan region, peppered with lakes and wineries. The coast features Vancouver – among the world’s most beautiful and gay friendly cities. Vancouver is a rare place where mountains meet ocean. Farther west is huge Vancouver Island with lovely Victoria. The area includes many smaller islands that are fun to explore, and gay-friendly. General: www.hellobc.com Vancouver: www.tourismvancouver.com, ww.vanpride.bc.ca www.gayvancouver.net Victoria: www.tourismvictoria.com, www.victoriapride.com Okanagan: www.gayokanagan.com/ Quebec is an anomaly. It’s part of Canada, but has a very distinct French-Canadian culture. French is the official language, but many Quebecois will move easily between English and French. The people are fun-loving, generally very gay-friendly, and proud of their distinct culture. Montréal and Quebec City (a little slice of Europe) are the two major centres. The province also offers ample opportunities for skiing, fishing, and hiking. You’ll find a great assortment of gay businesses and bars, especially in Montréal. Montréal will host the First OutGames sport and culture festival in 2006. General: www.bounjourquebec.com Quebec City: www.quebecregion.com Montréal: www.tourisme-montréal.org, www.diverscite.org, www.montréal2006.org, www.bbcm.org Much of Canada’s land is in the areas of the Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut. There are small communities in these regions, and it’s important to note that gay marriage is now available in the Yukon. Visit www.travelcanada.ca Fredericton Fredericton n NOVA SCOTIA Halifax ONTARIO Montreal The Prairie Provinces There’s a lot to do in the “flat” part of Canada! The prairies provinces are Manitoba, Saskatchewan and Alberta. Winnipeg, Manitoba, recently had an out gay mayor. Alberta is the most populated. Calgary is home to Canada’s only gay rodeo while Edmonton hosts North America’s original fringe theatre festival, always with gay content. Alberta: www.travelalberta.com, www.gaycalgary.com, www.pridecalgary.ca, www.edmontontourism.ca, www.prideedmonton.org, www.gayedmonton.com Manitoba: www.travelmanitoba.com, www.gaypridewinnipeg.com, www.gaywinnipeg.com Saskatchewan: www.sasktourism.com, www.saskatoonpride.ca Ottawa Toronto The Atlantic Region Canada’s far east is where the country began. It includes the provinces of Nova Scotia, Newfoundland & Labrador, Prince Edward Island and New Brunswick. Gay life in the Maritimes is not as visible as we might like, but does exist. Nova Scotia: www.novascotia.com, www.halifaxpride.com New Brunswick: www.tourismnewbrunswick.ca Newfoundland & Labrador: www.gov.nf.ca/tourism Prince Edward Island: www.peiplay.com, www.peipride.com PIC: TOURISME MONTRÉAL PIC: TOURISME QUEBEC You’ll find Columbia Fun Maps for many Canadian destinations. Listings here are at the editor’s discretion, based on quality information for the area. No organization has paid for this listing or received the listing in return for any compensation Getting Out of the Ottawa Heat You could do worse than spend a couple of days in Ottawa. Enough time for some good meals, a check of the sights, a night out, and there’s always a chance to get the political scoop (a different kind of Ottawa heat!). By Greg McKiel o what if the temperature hits 35C – those late-afternoon thunderstorms in the daily forecast rarely happen. Pack a hat and sunscreen, maybe an umbrella, stay central, and splurge on a few short cab rides when the going gets sticky. You’ll stay cool and dry on the wellair conditioned interiors of Canada’s capitol city. S Whether you’re here on business or pleasure, it’s great not having to cook or make the bed for a couple of days. Speaking of which, where are you staying? You’re staying at ARC The.Hotel, (140 Slater St.). Because it’s nice, smart people stay there and it’s smack in the middle of downtown. Who knows, maybe you’ll bump into a celeb. ARC The.Hotel is Ottawa’s first boutique hotel. You’d never know it used to be a Hojo’s with a basement full of underage drinkers. They bulldozed the interior a couple of years ago and installed low-key Euro style. The place is compact, the staff savvy and if you decide to stay in one evening, Corey might be making cocktails. This guy is amazing – he has the best memory for names and what a person likes to drink. He probably knows a lot more about the Ottawa who’s-who than he admits, but it’s always worth asking. Done with Corey, you head upstairs and order something from the hotel’s comfort food menu, jump in the tub and call it a night. Out and about by day you go by Parliament Hill. Not because it’s en route, but because you’re a bit of a history-politics buff and it’s the place to start. It is also an impressive amount of stone and copper made into, well, important buildings. Plus, you can set your watch by the clock. For a close look, catch the last tour of the afternoon when you can chat up the attractive young guide with less competition. Ask something challenging, like: “Is there anything relevant to, say, gay and lesbian culture?” If you’re directed to the work of Canada’s first female stonemason, you might have to come up with something harder. Are the nuts complimentary? The barman’s looking at you funny. You’ve just brushed your fingers across Senator Lynch-Staunton’s rear-end. The end of a day calls for a drink at Zoe’s, Chateau Laurier (1 Rideau St.), next door to Parliament Hill in the Chateau Laurier, another stone and copper landmark. On your way to “the Chadeau” as it is affectionately called, you’ll pass over the Bytown Locks, which shuttle boaters from the Rideau Canal to the Ottawa River. The canal may be a skating rink in winter but the summer version is a rollerblader/ cyclist/jogger’s paradise, with paved pathways stretching from end-to-end on both sides – perfect for catching beautiful people in motion. Zoe’s café-bar is a grand space. Mill about the bar area nodding and smiling, rub elbows with the pushy and powerful. Questions flood your mind. Why do so many female MPs wear red blazers? Are the nuts complimentary? The barman’s looking at you funny. You’ve just brushed your fingers across Senator LynchStaunton’s rear-end. While it’s important to get to the bottom (so to speak) of things political, it may be time to hit D'Arcy McGee’s (44 Sparks St.) on the way back to the hotel. D’Arcy McGee’s pub is one of the political set’s fave drinking spots. It must be its location just steps from The Hill at the top of the Sparks Street Mall . Murray Street in the Byward Market, our year-round public market, and get a table in the window of Khao Thai. Think salmon cooked inside a coconut shell. But don’t think about eating the shell because there are countless places for coffee and dessert right out the door. “The Mall” was Canada’s first pedestrian walkway reclaimed from a street (back then it was novel to stroll onto a road without getting hit by a car). Again, mill about the bar area. Younger, better looking, and poorer than Zoe’s, this crowd plays on the front lines. You may bump into a gay Cabinet Minister or two, but the only ones counting are still in the closet. Thursdays are best for eavesdropping – it’s last call before Members of Parliament head back to their home ridings (Canada’s name for electoral districts) for the weekend. But pay attention; the place is always packed and people communicate in yells. Expect your own butt to be accidentally contacted. You’ll eventually want a drink and some music. Go to The Lookout (41 York St.) anytime, but Thursday is boys’ night and Friday is girls’ night. There, you can dance and, before 11 p.m., it’s possible to converse with people. After that, squeeze your body into the bar area and speak directly into the mouth of the person next to you. “Hey, weren’t you at Zoe’s earlier?” Careening back to the hotel you can’t miss Helsinki Lounge & Disco (15 George St.), where the happy atmosphere, quality music and great looking unbiased crowd leave you wondering if it really isn’t a gay bar. No prob, by blending DJs, drag shows, go-go boys and go-go girls they devised “HUMP” on Wednesdays, the best way for GLBTs to celebrate making it to midweek in the Nation’s Capital. Ottawa is mostly casual so don’t expect your AX jeans to get the bum’s rush at a restaurant. Head down Bank Street, longabandoned by banks, and into The Buzz (374 Bank St.). It’s in the heart of Ottawa’s 1.5 block-long gay village. Beyond the friendly bar (especially on half-price martini Wednesdays) energetic servers bound up from the subterranean kitchen carrying eclectic, affordable bistro fare. Alternately, cross a few streets to Bronson Avenue for South African specialties at Stone Face Dolly’s (479 Bronson Ave.), a former diner where Dolly barked commands like “Sonny! Move to that table of three, I need your seat!” Now, you can count on a warm greeting, a blackboard full of ideas, sound wine advice and lush desserts, all at decent prices. Or walk down to God, is it that time already? You thought you’d end up watching the Shopping Channel. It’s almost flight time. You made a bunch of new friends and you even got the political scoop and the poop. And, you accomplished all of this on the inside, out of the heat. Next time bring skates, cruise the canal and celebrate gay Ottawa outdoors! t Greg lives in Ottawa. If you spot him spending too much time at Zoe’s, tell him an MP needs his seat. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ONTARIO TOURISM, TOP: MACDONALD, BOTTOM 3: ST. JACQUES gaycanadaguide 2005 17 THE RIGHT PLACE TO BE EQUAL By Mark Tewksbury As the 1st World Outgames Montréal 2006 comes nearer, Mark will to share his thoughts on the process, and the remarkable reasons that you, and everyone you know in the gay world should be planning to attend this amazing, re-built version of gay sport and festival. You’ll find Mark’s thoughts in each issue of Gay Canada Guide. Learn more about the events at www.montréal2006.org. Monday morning. The sky is perfect blue, summer is in the air. Lucky me. I have to go to a working breakfast. I had thought the meeting started at 9, so I was a bit surprised when I arrived at 8:45 and the tables were all full. Oops! Breakfast was already being served. Since I was up, I took the opportunity to be introduced to some people. As I slowly made my way around the room – the indoor courtyard of the beautiful, historic Montréal City Hall – I became overwhelmed by the people I was meeting. A human rights activist from Pakistan. A woman from Chile. A judge from New York. Representatives from China. Brazil. Britain. France. Mexico. Country after country, group after group. Finally, I sat down to catch my breath. After loading my plate with some fruit, cheese and bread I became better acquainted with my tablemates. On one side sat Ms. Joke Swiebel, Dutch member of the European Parliament since 1999. On the other sat the Honourable Madame Justice Claire Heureux-Dubé, retired judge of the Supreme Court of Canada. Needless to say, the conversation was stimulating. We spoke of Montréal. People from all parts of the world love coming to this city. The night before a group had taken a long walk and had a meal in Old Montréal. It was charming and romantic in spite of all the activity. I agree! Not long ago my boyfriend and I took a walk – and a nap! – on the banks of the docks. Even with concert and science fair mayhem around us we were very comfortable resting together on the grass. There is something magical about this part of Montréal in the summer, and also the fall. Conversation moved to how unique Montréal is in another aspect, that it was a city that could bring us all together for breakfast. I was with members of the international steering committee for the human rights conference, The Right To Be Different, which will be held as part of the 1st World Outgames Montréal 2006. 3,000 participants from over 100 countries are expected to participate in the conference. I was reminded that there are very few places Experience great atmosphere, friendly service and an unforgettable winter holiday! Escape to incredible snow & award winning ski-in, ski out convenience... in the world where the kind of support needed to host a conference of this size could be found. The mayor himself told the committee he is “convinced that this conference will make a positive contribution to the evolution of human rights.” Sometimes you travel to relax, unwind, to find an adventure. Sometimes you travel for work, to volunteer, to play sport. Travelling, seeing the world and getting different perspectives are great ways to grow. As is being a part of something that brings the whole world to one place, which is starting to take real shape here in Montréal. Madame Justice told me why she was involved that morning. “We all have the right to be EQUAL,” she said. Damn right! This Monday morning breakfast meeting would not soon be forgotten. t Mark Tewksbury is a three time Olympic Medallist, seven-time world record holder in swimming who now lives in Montréal where he is Co-President of the 1st World Outgames Montréal 2006. MARK TEWKSBURY, IMAGE BY WWW.STUDIOPHOTOFUSION.COM 1-800-663-2772 www.bigwhite.com 1-800-663-4431 www.skisilverstar.com Queers are never short on opinions. You’ve proven that again with the amazing response to the first ever survey about gay/lesbian travel to and within Canada. The survey was a joint venture between Gay Canada Guide and the Canadian Tourism Commission, and was handled by worldwide accounting and consulting firm Grant Thornton LLP. You gave your opinion • 847 respondents (85% gay men) opted into the survey, demonstrating a tremendous interest in gay Canadian travel. • 86% of gay travellers are more likely to support a business that’s known to be gay-friendly. Gay ownership is not as important as gay “friendliness.” • 37% take 4–6 vacations per year, defined as leisure trips with one or more nights away from home, although 60% of us say the average length of our leisure trips is 4–9 nights. • 21% take a staggering seven or more vacations per year • 39% travel to/within Canada for Gay Pride events. 10.5% identify gay nightlife as our favourite travel activity. Sunbathing/beach comes in second at 10.4%. Visiting historical sites gets 9.6%, community events 8.9%, and shopping 8.7%. These numbers show we’re far more diverse in our interests and activities than many people may expect. • A whopping 51% plan to attend Rendezvous Montréal/OutGames 2006. • 51% of non-Canadian respondents say the ability to legally marry in Canada attracts them to visit (see story, page 12). • Canada’s most gaily visited cities, in order of most visited: Montréal, Toronto, Vancouver, Quebec City, Niagara Falls, Calgary. The results show that gay travellers are constantly on the go, and that Canada continues to be a very desirable gay travel destination. Recent study results by Community Marketing, Inc. in the U.S. demonstrate that gay American travellers are spending U.S. $54 billion per year, and that over 80% of gay men have a valid passport (vs. 29% of the general population). PHOTOGRAPHY COURTESY OF TOURISM VANCOUVER gaycanadaguide 2005 19 THE BIG GAY PARTY: Montréal By Randall Shirley “Where is Canada’s gayest city?” It’s a question I hear over and over. It’s a hard question, because each of this country’s cities offers a different gay experience. But when the Bad Boys’ Club throws a party, the answer is easy: Montréal. Montréal is a spectacular, gay-friendly city any time of year. They’ve loaded the summer with outdoor festivals, autumn is ablaze with colour, and winter is the perfect time for the famed “underground city.” And of course, you get incredibly hot Montréal men and women to ogle in every season. But add in those Bad Boys, and Montréal becomes something else entirely. It gets gayer. Nobody seems to mind a few thousand extra homos hitting town for a few days, several times a year. Upcoming 20 gaycanadaguide 2005 Bad Boys’ Club parties include “Twist” during Montréal Pride (July 25-31) and the main event, “Black & Blue,” (Oct. 511, www.bbcm.org). If they’re planning anything like the 2004 event, you can bet Black & Blue will be an eye-popper. If you’re not the baddest boy, pick anytime to create your own style of Montréal party. The gay village along eastern rue Ste Catherine est has plenty of restaurants and bars to make you feel like you went to a party. And if the only reason you’d go to a party in the first place is for a chance to see hot guys in scant clothing, pop into Campus (1111, rue Ste Catherine est). A tamer option is up the street at Sky Pub (1474 rue Ste Catherine est). The biggest problem with party time is too many party-goers play all night and miss Montréal’s spectacular daytime options. It’s well worth the effort to tuck in a little early so you can explore some of Montréal’s superb sights. If art interests you, check out the Montréal Museum of Fine Arts (www.mmfa.qc.ca). If you don’t care about art, the museum is worth a peek for its blend of modern and traditional architecture. Nearby you’ll find the truly original home of the smoked meat sandwich. Ben’s Deli started it all and Below left: Even the street signs get in on Montréal’s gay party. Below middle: Montréal's street merchants offer a rainbow of colourful items. Selection is best in the morning when you're probably just going home.... Below: Old Montréal meets new tapas at swank Verses. No matter what your play vs. tourism schedule, you’ll need a spot to sleep. Montréal has no shortage, and most places in the city core make for easy walking distance to The Village, shopping, and great dining. A solid option is the delightful and very hip Hotel Gault, in gentrified Old/Vieux Montréal (www.hotelgault.com). This place puts a whole new spin on the phrase “It’s fun to stay at the YMCA.” Hotel Gault is in the building where Canada’s YMCA’s were first created. Not to worry – the only Village People in sight will be you and your date. Just around the corner is all the charm of the old city, with loads of mainstream places to eat and drink. But this is Montréal, you’ll feel very comfortable. The tapas and martinis at Verses are outstanding (100 SaintPaul Street Ouest). Montréal gives you all the party supplies you need. And as long as you’re there, Montréal will be Canada’s gayest city. So, bad boys (and girls), when you’re ready for a truly gay party – even if it’s simply one of your own making – Montréal gives you all the party supplies you need. And as long as you’re there, Montréal will be Canada’s gayest city. t Navigate the city with ease using Columbia Fun Maps’ Montréal edition. PHOTOGRAPHY BY RANDALL SHIRLEY PIC: TOURISM QUEBEC still serves the sandwich the way it’s meant to be. They’re greasy and absolutely divine (990 De Maisonneuve Blvd. Ouest). After lunch, you’re not far from Mount Royal, locally called The Mountain. A stroll up will work off the calories (in case you’re headed out for a shirtless night), and reward you with the postcard-perfect view of Montréal’s skyline. In addition to The Village, Montréal has other sublime neighbourhoods for an afternoon stroll, shop, and coffee. Rue St. Denis in the Plateau neighbourhood is the perfect spot for just such delights. MORALITY CUTS In Parc Montréal (the park that takes up much of The Mountain), you might notice swaths of trees and bushes cut away. These are locally known as “morality cuts,” and believe it or not, they’re there to prevent sex in the bushes. Of course, if you take such risks, locals advise that “boys with girls go up the hill, boys with boys go down the hill.” P.E.I. Pride on Edward Island “There are only two things to do in Prince Edward Island – sex and fishing – and you can’t fish in winter,” the owner of the Bouquet Point, P.E.I., cottage I stayed in told me one evening. And, dammit, the man wasn’t kidding. This, in the land the Mi’kmaq Indians once called “Abegweit” – for “Home cradled on the waves” – before white folk kicked them out. It’s been downhill ever since and, darling, let me tell you why: highwaycode obeying islanders are lazily content to obey preposterous 40- to 80- kilometre speed limits (and boy, did they grip their steering wheel when I showed them how we drive in Quebec). Then, when there are road signs there are no street lamps, and almost all the bridges here would remind Ted Kennedy of Chappaquiddick. When they’re not playing country music on the radio,they’re reading obits 24/7 (I kid you not)... Lovely Prince Edward Island isn’t Canada’s gayest spot – but as Montréal humourist RICHARD BURNETT discovers, it’s still a gorgeous place to visit with local dykes, drag queens, and plenty of pride if you’re keen to go. Simon Corneau filed a discrimination complaint? “That’s the custom that we are used to,” Beach View B&B owner Dagmar Cepica quipped at the time. “The bed is shared by people – by married people of the opposite sex – or possibly by relatives that have a reason to do so.” Of course, the week I was there I arrived smack in the middle of Harley Davidson’s annual international Harley Owners Group (HOG) biker rally, which drew 3,500 easy riders and bear-hugging Harley chicks from across the Americas, not to mention the 14,000-strong, annual national Scouts Canada Jamboree at Cabot Beach Provincial Park. (By the by, Scouts Canada, unlike Big Brothers Canada, still doesn’t unequivocally state it welcomes gay leaders.) Of course, there isn’t one gay bar on the entire island, so there was no escape. But providence was looking over me, and there was gay life to be found: Charlottetown’s Story continued on page 25. Right: The romantic waters of P.E.I. are postcard perfect. Perhaps you’ll find a gay seaman. Below: Evocative names such as Savage Harbour, Naufrage Harbour, North Rustico and Shipwreck Point enable visitors to better understand the daily reality of today’s fishermen. Probably best to keep your gay fisherman fantasies to yourself, though… You must also buy your Moosehead at the beer store and can only return your empties to some island-wide depot out in the sticks; it costs $3.82 to call Charlottetown from Summerside (just 50 kilometres away) on a pay phone; and when they’re not playing country music on the radio, they’re reading obits 24/7 (I kid you not). But, you say, what did I expect in a province where a Stratford bed and breakfast decided to close its doors rather than allow gay couples to stay there, as the P.E.I. Human Rights Commission ruled after Montréal couple Jean Bédard and gaycanadaguide 2005 23 Vancouver’s Out T.V. Star Out T.V. personality Bill Mantas just wrapped the first season of Pink Planet, a gay travel series, on Vancouver’s CityTV. Season two is in the works. Here’s what Bill says is best about his town – Vancouver. “I’m a big city guy. I need a large, cosmopolitan city around me, which Vancouver is. I love its mix of mountains and ocean. I think it’s one of the prettiest cities in the world.” Best Food: “The Asian influence means you get some amazing sushi, great Indian food. A mix of eastern influences and western cooking techniques. It’s a very foody town. We’re completely comfortable as a gay couple in Vancouver restaurants. My favourite restaurant is Vij’s (Indian/French fusion), and second is Shiro sushi – the best I’ve ever had.” Best Bar: “I love a gay bar on Davie Street called Oasis. It’s a great spot to have appetizers, drinks and good conversation. When I have family or friends visiting – who are perhaps straight – I take them there.” Best Stroll: “Hold your partner’s hand and go for a stroll on the seawall. You’ll feel completely comfortable. It’s a beautiful walk that lets you see the city and the ocean.” Best Weekend Getaway: “Whistler. The mountains are so majestic they’ll take your breath away. Vancouverites kind of consider Whistler part of our city.” Catch Season #1 of PinkPlanet at a new time! Starting June 6th Pink Planet will air Mondays at 11:35p.m. PST and Saturdays at 11:30p.m. on Vancouver’s CityTV and on satellite services: Bell Expressvu, 260 and Star Choice, 359. More info at www.pinkplanet.tv PHOTOGRAPHS OF BILL MANTAS BY WILLIAM JANS, OTHERS COURTESY OF TOURISM VANCOUVER P.E.I.– pride on edward island VANCOUVER Robson Street Location Story continued from page 23. Gay and Lesbian Pride Week kicked off that week with a karaoke night at the Kinsman Centre and mini-golf at the Sherwood Greens Driving Range. Since golf isn’t my thing, I decided I’d best attend a social at the Beanz coffee house a couple of nights later. There I was truly awestruck by the island’s incredibly brave Pride organizers who told me the Abegweit Rainbow Collective organizes monthly dances at the Charlottetown Delta Hotel. “We tried to open a gay bar in town last year but it wasn’t the proper location,” explained thirtysomething veteran activist Wayne McQuaid who, when I asked what the proper location is, cracked, “Out of the city!” “People here are too closeted,” said Pride organizer Libby Ramsay, pointing out most queer islanders are still afraid of being spotted walking into a gay club. “The numbers attending our dances have gone up from 80 to 200, so the more gay couples are in the paper, the safer it becomes for them.” “No flash photography for the safety of the people on the stage,” hostess Barbie Bendover told an audience of diesel dykes, teenage fag hags and their cute gay boyfriends. McQuaid and Ramsay aren’t kidding. When a Pride parade was held here back in ‘95 bystanders pelted 80 marchers with rotten fruit and vegetables. So this time diesel-dyke, march coordinator Robbie Venoit – who runs Charlottetown’s all-dyke courier company – arranged for a police escort for the parade. Venoit told me she was “optimistic” their march would draw “over 100 participants. We already have 15 groups and six cars.” All this costs money, of course – $5,000 to be precise. At the start of the weeklong festivities organizers had only raised $950, including $250 from Bacardi Rum. So my sister Jennifer, cousin Audrey and I each paid $8 to attend the first annual Ms. Gay Atlantic Canada Pageant at the Delta Hotel on the Friday night. “No flash photography for the safety of the people on the stage,” hostess Barbie Bendover told an audience of diesel dykes, teenage fag hags and their cute gay boyfriends, not to mention a healthy contingent of denim-clad, gay he-men (one, excuse the pun, sported a ZZ Top beard). Now, while these Maritime queens don’t come anywhere near the girls in Priscilla, Queen of the Desert, what they lacked in delivery they sure made up for in sheer stockings and courage (the winner was Amber Williams, who won a $100 worth of Faces makeup). And most stuck around for the dance afterwards, hoping to meet Mr. or Ms. Right (Now). Which brings me to P.E.I.’s fictional heroine, Anne of Green Gables. Like my Charlottetown barber told me as he was shaving my head, “Everybody here is sick of Anne of Green Gables. But when they came out with Anne of Green Gables license plates a few years ago, that was the last straw.” The Best of Both Worlds Well, I figure I’m the biggest diva to hit the island since, well, Anne herself. Just ask any islander behind a wheel. Now, I wonder, will they write a book about me? And if they do, shall I meet my own Prince Charming and live happily ever after? I’m no fool, of course – there is no such a thing as happily ever after. But we all have good days, and queer islanders had theirs the next day when over 200 people marched in the Pride parade without being jeered or pummelled with rotten fruit. “They did a good job of it, for a province like this,” one onlooker told the local Guardian daily newspaper. I’m sure Canada’s fathers of Confederation, who forged this great nation on the very spot where the parade began, just outside historic Province House in downtown Charlottetown, would have been proud, too. t Richard Burnett is Editor-at-Large of Montréal’s Hour magazine where he writes “Three Dollar Bill,” a column on gay life across Canada and around the world. www.hour.ca. When you visit P.E.I., be sure to tell them Richard sent you! PHOTOGRAPHY: TOURISM PEI / JOHN SYLVESTER www.bluehorizonhotel.com Exceed Your Expectations Large Corner Rooms with Balconies Spectacular Views Free High Speed Internet Access Indoor Pool • Sauna • Jacuzzi • Treadmills Tel: 604-688-1411 Fax: 604-688-4461 1225 Robson St. Vancouver BC gaytravelclassifieds.com CANADA: National CANADA: Ontario Pride Enterprises Limited Toronto Woody’s and Sailor The natives are friendly – but do you speak the language? Gay travel marketing and consulting services to ensure success. Ph: 1+604-789-8226. E-mail: [email protected] Canadian Gay & Lesbian Chamber of Commerce Promoting equality and improving opportunities for GLBT owned/operated/friendly businesses and professionals while expanding markets and values. Web: www.gclcc.ca CANADA: Vancouver Blue Horizon Hotel Spectacular views of Vancouver. Large corner rooms with balconies. Centrally located, Ph: 604-688-1411. Web: www.bluehorizonhotel.com CANADA: Montreal Delta Montreal Hotel Friendly and comfortable hotel located in the heart of downtown. Oversized rooms, indoor pool and workout centre. Ph: 514-286-1986. Web: www.deltamontreal.com. Two of Torontos hottest bars conveniently located in the gay village. Ph: 416-972-0887. Web: www.woodystoronto.com The Black Eagle Toronto Torontos original leather-denim cruise bar. Two levels, three bars. Heated smoking patio. Ph: 416-413-1219. Web: www.blackeagletoronto.com House on McGill Village Rainbow Restaurant A sunny patio and excellent Mediterranean and Canadian cuisine. Ph: 416-961-0616 Play on Church Hot Latin men at Canada’s premiere Latin dance club. Ph: 416-963-8251. Web: www.playonchurch.com Statlers Live music seven nights a week. Ph: 416-925-0341. Web: www.statlers.ca Dundas Square Hotel Comfortable, affordable and downtown. Ph: 416-703-3939. Web: www.dundashotel.com Dundonald House Centrally located at the heart of the gay village. Parking, sauna, hot tub and more. Ph: 416-961-9888 or 1-800-260-7227. Web: www.dundonaldhouse.com Canadians often wonder about the history of Gay Canada Guide. “How can it say Edition 3 or 4 on the cover when I don’t recall seeing editions one and two?” Simple – the first two editions were created for the international travel market, and distributed at travel events around the world. Once a few Canadians saw the publication, it was obvious that the home crowd was also hungry for a top rate, gay travel magazine. So, beginning with Edition 3, we began offering Canadas premier gay travel magazine within Canada. 26 gaycanadaguide 2005 An award-winning, 4-season. Pet-friendly resort in the Kawarthas, 1.5 hours N-E of Toronto. Smoke-free, fully-equipped, 1- and 2-bedroom cottages and Deluxe Kawartha Suite intimately arranged along the lakeshore of Katchewanooka Lake. Fireplaces, private outdoor hot tubs, gorgeous lake views. Swim, boat, hike, x-country ski, relax. Close to village shops, restaurants, natural beauty, attractions and culture. Toll-Free North America.: 1-866-525-3343 Web: www.lakeedge.com Charming Victorian townhouse accommodation in Toronto’s gay village. Ph: 416-351-1503. Web: www.mcgillbb.ca Just like you, we’ve been around… HUGE thanks to the following Canadian and American businesses for welcoming the first major North American distribution of Gay Canada Guide (Edition 3): Lakefield Lake Edge Cottages Gay Canada Guide is now published by Columbia Fun Maps (CFM), the worlds leading producer of G&L destination maps. Youll find CFM maps free in many cities. For a full listing of distribution spots, or to order maps, contact CFM at www.funmaps.com. Alan Beck, executive publisher, is delighted to welcome Gay Canada Guide to the CFM family. “It’s a natural fit for us,” he says. “We’ve been mapping the gay world for years, and with Canada being the premier gay destination, were delighted to join the Canadian Tourism Commission and other organizations to provide the finest gay travel magazine.” Vancouver Little Sisters Bookstore Regina Outside Bar & Lounge Calgary With the Times (4th Street) McNally Robinson Downtown Priape Winnipeg McNally Robinson Portage Pl. Edmonton Audreys Bookstore Woodys Pub Saskatoon Headquarters Bar & Lounge Divas London, ON Pride Library, UWO Toronto 519 Community Centre Hair of the Dog Rainbow High Vacations Zeldas Ottawa After Stonewall Books Montréal Bad Boys Club Events (Black/Blue, etc.) Rendezvous Montréal/Outgames Events Los Angeles & San Francisco A Different Light Bookstore Philadelphia Giovannis Room Books Washington, D.C. Candidas World of Books *Note – we are now part of the Columbia Fun Maps company, expanding our North American availability to all major cities. We also continue distribution at gay travel expos. They’re a lot of fun. Check out www.CommunityMarketingInc.com for info on these events. 1ST WORLD OUTGAMES 6 0 0 2 N I P I R T YOUR BEST 16,000 PARTICIPANTS – OVER 100 COUNTRIES Register for your Sport or Cultural activity or for the International Conference now! 35 sports, 4 cultural activities featured, The Right to Be Different International Conference for the advancement of LGBT Rights,Opening and Closing Ceremonies,Opening and Closing parties. Come to compete hard and furious and enjoy everything there is to enjoy.World class facilities, a great friendly city and much more. The one international Rendez-vous you don’t want to miss! R e gis te r a t www.mo n tr e a l20 0 6 .o r g PLEASE SEE OUR WEBSITE FOR THE TOUR OPERATOR IN YOUR COUNTRY Shouldn’t you get out more? BE YOURSELF. BRING A FRIEND. Mount Royal Park, Montréal, Québec ©Tourisme ©Tourisme Québec, Linda Turgeon Afternoon adventures ord adventures in Whistler, Whistler, B.C. ©Allan Crawf Crawford Québec City Summer Festiv Festiv al, Québec Performers: erformers: CHAMADE Friche Friche théâtre urbain ©Louise Leblanc Distiller y District, Toronto, oronto, Ont ario © Ont ario Tourism Canada. There is no better place to be out and about. Celebrate life and love with us. Experience diversity, in all of its natural splendor and cultural richness. Reach for the sky, dance the night away, dine like royalty. Be embraced - just as you are. Visit www.ComeSeeCanada.com/OutAndAbout Shopping in Vancouver ancouver,, British Columbia ©Tourism ©Tourism Vancouver/John ancouver/John Sin al