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Top 10 New American Gins
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In Gin / By Drink Spirits / 9 January 2013 / 42 comments
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Top 10 American Gins
Up to just a few years ago, when someone referred to gin, they probably were referring to the the juniper-‐forward London Dry
style of gin. For a very long time, this style of gin was gin. By definition, to be a gin (rather than a flavored vodka), a gin must
have juniper as its dominant flavor note. In the London Dry style of gin, juniper is the star and the other botanicals in the mix
(often including orris root, cassia bark, bitter orange, liquorice, angelica, and coriander) are dialed back as supporting
characters. This style of gin works great when it’s paired with good tonic water, which is plentiful in Europe.
In the United States, tonic water is a much different animal. The FDA limits the level of quinine (the bittering agent in tonic)
and US tonics often use high fructose corn syrup as a sweetener (rather than sugar in Europe). To make matters more
complicated, because of high alcohol tax, many of the London Dry gins in Europe (especially the UK) are sold at a lower proof
than in the US. When you pair a higher proof gin that has assertive juniper with subpar tonic water, you get a drink that has
turned off generations of American drinkers to the gin category.
American Gin came about as an answer to this problem. Philadelphia Distilling’s Bluecoat Gin was one of the first craft gins on
the market and was the spirit which kicked off a new breed of gin. This “American Style” gin was based on the idea that if you
increase the intensity of the other botanicals in gin, you get a much more balanced and enjoyable spirit. This philosophy was
codified by Bartender Ryan Magarian, who penned an influential piece, New Western Gin Defined, and helped launch Aviation
Gin, a benchmark for this style.
The philosophy of “botanical democracy” expanded beyond US borders with notable gins like Hendricks and Nolets embracing
non-‐traditional botanicals and balance with juniper. The gin market has exploded with so many great gins that we could have
pages and pages of them on a best list. But since this gin revolution really had its roots in America, we thought we’d round up
the Top 10 American Gins (including one from Canada).
#1 Leopold’s American Small Batch Gin (80 proof) – When it comes to botanical democracy, no gin embraces this philosophy
with stronger zeel than Leopold’s. Most gins are made by steeping botanicals in neutral grain spirit and then distilling them.
Alternatively, botanicals can be put in a botanical basket in a still so the alcohol vapors permeate them before condensing and
becoming a liquid. Instead of distilling all the botanicals at once, which is how most gins are produced, the Leopold Bros. distill
each botanical individually. This means the final gin is a careful blend of distilled botanicals assembled in a supremely
complicated process. If that weren’t enough, the Leopold Bros. don’t use neutral spirits as the base for their gin; instead, they
separately distill fermented wheat, potato, and barley into a blended base spirit. It’s a painstaking process but the result is
nothing short of stunning. Leopold’s Gin is inviting from the start with a nose that exquisitely balances sweet orange, floral
orris root, and piney juniper. There’s no edge to the nose, no bite, and the aromas come together to remind us of the smell
you get from river rocks surrounded by pine trees. There’s an absolute elegance to the entry of Leopold’s Gin, the polar
opposite of assertive but without sacrificing flavor. The entry is light and delicate with sweet orange and flowery orris.
Juniper, cardamom, and coriander come in right behind the light and sweet notes in a symphony of spice. All of these elements
come together in the midpalate which manages perfect balance. The spice begins to subside at the end of the midpalate and
becomes more of a suggestion on the finish, which is mostly floral and citrus. Leopold’s American Small Batch Gin isn’t just one
of the finest of the craft gins, it’s one of the best craft products on the market. (Leopold Bros., Denver, CO)
#2 Berkshire Mountain Distillers Greylock Gin (80 proof) – Although the distillery classifies the Greylock Gin as a London Dry
style gin, it’s defined more by the integration of botanicals over the dominance of juniper. Juniper pine is clearly present on
the nose, but it’s the lemon and orange notes that really jump out of the glass. Also, underneath the juniper is clear coriander
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and pepper spice that all come together for a deeply integrated and aromatic nose. The entry for Greylock Gin is nothing short
of astounding – there’s nothing assertive or singular about this gin. Sweet citrus leads the pack as a top note with juniper
following quickly behind, along with a bottom note of pepper and coriander. The way these flavors present is layered rather
than sequential, creating immense complexity that you just don’t find in many gins. The mouthfeel is perfect and manages a
balance between soft, fine, and light. The midpalate is a further exploration of flavor integration with all the flavors
intensifying almost equally. The juniper and pepper spice peak but they are in lockstep with sweet citrus and an earthy
undertone. The finish maintains all the flavors from the midpalate in a long and pleasant finish. Greylock Gin is easily sipped
neat. Although the flavors are intense, the delivery of them is so elegant and well crafted that there isn’t even the suggestion
of harshness. Greylock Gin is an amazing gin and is not only one of the best of the American Gins, it’s one of the best gins,
period. (Berkshire Mountain Distillers, Great Barrington, MA)
#3 Schramm Gin (88 proof) – Although technically a “Canadian Gin”, Schramm Gin typifies some of the best of American Gin
with a botanical mix that includes hops and rose hips. Schramm Gin has a true symphony of aromas in the nose including
juniper, orange peel, coriander, and hops. All the astringent notes really stand out in the nose and come together excellently.
The entry is full with a clear, starchy feel to the opening. As with the nose, the more astringent notes open things up with
juniper, orange peel, and coriander. As it moves to the midpalate, the rosemary notes act as a transition to more of the warm
notes, and as things open up we get more cinnamon, angelica, and hops. The undercurrent of the sweet elements from the
potato base sneak in at the midpalate, almost as if it’s there to accompany the cinnamon. There’s a slight juniper kick towards
the very end that leads to a long finish, with lingering rosemary and hops. Schramm Gin is one of the best sipping gins on the
market and is superb neat or on the rocks (Pemberton Distillery, Pemberton, BC)
#4 Aviation Gin (84 proof) – From the moment you smell the nose of Aviation Gin, you know you’re in for something different.
There’s definitely juniper and pine on the nose but it’s backed up with soft sweet orange, lush lavender, and earthy
cardamom. The entry is soft and round, delivering a beautiful wide botanical medley of flavors. Juniper is there but cardamom
is its equal companion. The spice notes in Aviation are multidimensional with caraway, anise, and just a hint of pepper there
right behind the juniper and cardamom. Above all this is a nice light lavender floral note that ties very well with the more
herbal tones. The combination of flavors is fantastic. The finish is soft and easy without much heat, with cardamom and
lavender lingering on the palate. Unlike Leopold Bros. and Schramm gins, Aviation really shines best when mixed. Aviation Gin
sings with citrus and honey in the Bees Knees and is a soul mate to Creme de Violette in the Aviation. Aviation Gin one of the
gins that really helped codify the category for American Gin and it’s one of the best. (House Spirits Distillery, Portland, OR)
#5 Bluecoat American Dry Gin(94 proof) – Philadelphia Distilling deserves a lot of credit for helping revolutionize the gin
category. It was their Bluecoat American Dry Gin that really helped solidify the new American style of gin. Unlike London Dry
gins that lead with juniper on the nose, Bluecoat Gin leads with citrus including lemon, orange, and lime. Juniper is there, but
it’s underneath the citrus blast and it’s accompanied by orris root and coriander. The entry is an explosion of flavor with strong
citrus and juniper. The citrus here has a nice bittersweet quality which pairs well with the savory pine of the juniper at the
same level of intensity. Other traditional gin botanicals are here as well, like coriander, but there seem to be some
unconventional notes as well like chamomile. There’s also a grain note from the base spirit in the mix which adds a nice
dimensionality. As with many other well-‐crafted gins, Bluecoat only intensifies in the midpalate and all the flavor notes come
together. The finish is long with juniper, black pepper, and strong citrus lingering on the palate. Mixed, Bluecoat’s citrus notes
intensify even more, making it a good choice for tonic as well as many of the citrus-‐forward gin cocktails like the Aviation. It’s
also superb in a Bramble. (Philadelphia Distilling, Philadelphia, PA)
#6 Greenhook Ginsmiths American Dry Gin (94 proof) – Juniper naturally has a floral quality to it and Greenhook Ginsmiths
American Dry Gin plays off of that quality by adding elderflower and chamomile to the mix. The nose of Greenhook is all about
these flowers and leads with strong, sweet elderflower, and sandwiched underneath are juniper and cinnamon in equal parts.
As you dig past these notes the chamomile begins to emerge. The entry is very floral with the elderflower and chamomile
leading the charge. Juniper and cinnamon are right behind with spicy black pepper underneath. Everything intensifies in the
midpalate with the spice ramping up to overtake the floral notes. The finish is nice and long with good spice and subtle floral
undertone. Chamomile pops up in the botanical mix of a few gins, but elderflower isn’t as common. The sweet floral qualities
of the elderflower really complement the spicier pine and black pepper notes from the juniper. The cinnamon is also a really
nice complement on the spice side and it’s stronger here than with other gins we’ve tried. Chamomile seems to be the binding
agent that bridges the gap between the sweet flower and spicy juniper, and pulls everything together. Greenhook Ginsmiths
American Dry Gin is another great example of the new face of gin with a botanical mix that not only supports the juniper but
explores the possibilities of mixing it with other compatible botanicals of the same intensity. (Greenhook Ginsmiths Brooklyn,
NY).
#7 New Deal Portland Dry Gin, Recipe 33 – While many New American Gins use a blend of botanicals, Recipe 33 only uses
juniper berries to get its flavor, a remarkable achievement considering the flavors it delivers. On the nose there’s a hint of
honey with distinct lemon-‐lime notes paired with fresh evergreen. On the entry the gin expands to a wide flavor of sweet pine
with citrus undertones and cool mint. The finish is quick but leaves your mouth very cool with a lingering subtle juniper flavor.
Expertly distilled, Recipe 33 is a reductionist approach to classic gin done in a very modern way. It’s an excellent gin and ideal
for people drawn to gin for the bright pine and evergreen flavors. (New Deal Distillery, Portland, OR)
#8 Voyager (84 Proof) – Voyager impressed us as an exceptionally solid gin and one of our top choices as an alternative to
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London Dry Gin in cocktails. Voyager’s nose has strong citrus notes like fresh lime, with pine, white pepper, lemon, eucalyptus,
and cardamom. It has a lovely evergreen entry which is big and wide, more like pine needles than juniper. Voyager has a
wonderful balance of sweet and savory with lemon notes, pepper, and cardamom supporting the pine. It has a medium finish
that is a little peppery and then ends very lemony. Voyager isn’t as complex as Leopold’s or Aviation, but its bold entry and
expansive taste make it an ideal gin for cocktails. (Pacific Distillery, Woodinville, WA)
#9 FEW Aged Gin (93 proof) – Aged gin isn’t anything new – there’s a long tradition of it, especially in Europe – but it’s been
extremely uncommon in the United States. For their FEW Aged Gin, FEW Spirits looked to oak as a companion note to the
juniper in their gin. FEW Aged Gin is dramatically different from their other gins, as it has a greatly stripped-‐down botanical
mix to focus on the interaction between juniper and oak. The nose on FEW Aged Gin is so heavy oak, it would be easy at first
smell to mistake this gin for a whiskey. Many of the traditional oak barrel notes lead on the nose including sawdust, oak spice,
marzipan, and vanilla. Juniper is there but it’s a supporting note. Underneath it all are some fruity notes from the base spirit
including crisp green apple. From the nose we feared that FEW Aged Gin was over-‐oaked but the entry reveals a true
integration between oak and juniper. Deep oak spice mixes with juniper pine on a bed of vanilla and caramel. As with other
American style gins, there are other flavors on par with the juniper, but here it’s oak, which provides an intense and alluring
fusion of flavors. The spice is sandwiched between the sweeter notes from the barrel and the base spirit, creating a lovely
complexity that draws us back again and again. The finish is medium long with spicy oak and juniper with an undertone of
vanilla. FEW Aged Gin is very much a sipping gin but also does well in a Negroni or standing in for whiskey in a Manhattan.
#10 Dry Fly Gin – (80 proof) – A distinctly different style of gin, Dry Fly has thrown out the rule book and taken an entirely
different approach to gin. The nose on Dry Fly Gin is huge green apple, strawberry, confectioner’s sugar, and honeysuckle
flowers, and back – way, way back in the background – is just a hint of pine. The taste is apple, pepper, peach, vanilla, wheat,
nectarine, and lime peel. The finish is pretty quick and leaves your mouth very cool and clean. We like Dry Fly’s Gin but it’s
the kind of spirit which will get people arguing as to whether or not it’s actually a true gin. Either way, it’s an exciting entry
into this space and an interesting New American Gin. (Dry Fly Distilling, Spokane, WA)
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Tags: aviation, bluecoat gin, dry fly, Few, greenhook ginsmiths, greylock gin, leopold's, Micro Distillery, new american gin,
portland gin, small batch, voyager
About the author: Drink Spirits
Drink Spirits is written by +Geoff Kleinman and edited by Heather Kleinman. All spirits reviewed are tasted by a panel of
tasters.
Website: http://www.drinkspirits.com
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42 Comments
Mary Bartlett
on Sep 15, 2010
at 4:17 pm
I’m surprised by your results. Was it a blind tasting? What gins did you taste?
Reply
Geoff K
on Sep 15, 2010
at 4:25 pm
Yes it was blind. We taste everything blind. What surprises you?
Reply
Oliver
on Dec 29, 2010
at 5:37 pm
I think that the Aviation Gin is fantastic. I made a great drink called an Opal with it. It’s got some great herbal flavors and
shows its historical roots. How does one get involved in these tastings?
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Reply
Mark
on Sep 17, 2011
at 6:45 pm
I recently tried the Aviation Gin in a number of classic cocktails including a Martini (in one evening I might add). I was
very impressed with the complexity of botanical flavors. I was also happy that I wasn’t hurting the next day. I tried the
Junipero the same evening which was on the other end of the spectrum of flavors with heavy Juniper notes, not my style
but agree its a great product.
Reply
jellydonut
on Nov 18, 2011
at 2:12 pm
Have you tried Death’s Door?
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Nov 18, 2011
at 2:23 pm
Yes we have.
Reply
Jon
on Apr 14, 2012
at 9:25 pm
What are your thoughts on Sound Spirits and their Ebb + Flow Gin?
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Apr 14, 2012
at 10:02 pm
We’ve only had the aged version from a test batch, but we loved what we tasted.
Reply
Martini Lover
on Jun 18, 2012
at 8:12 pm
Just tried Leopold. What part of “wet cement” makes a good gin? I couldn’t put my finger on it, but I think you captured
it (I was thinking wet paper/cardboard as well). It seems a bit dull. I think I’ll stick with Junipero (or Beefeater) for a
proper martini.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jun 18, 2012
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at 10:36 pm
It’s really a style thing. Leopold is more New American Gin style, in the same universe as Plymouth Gin. But
according to your taste it seems like you like Juniper. So Beefeater, Junipero and Tanqueray are all great for that
taste profile.
Reply
Karen Young
on Jul 11, 2012
at 9:24 pm
I’ve found a couple of Midwestern gins that are pretty good: Pickney Bend from New Haven, MO, and an outstanding and
unique selection, the Barrel Aged Gin from Corsair in Nashville/Bowling Green. Pickney Bend smells identical to Sapphire
but the taste is buttery and smooth and lingers on the tongue. The Barrel Aged Gin is really amazing. They age it in the
whiskey barrels and the flavor is so rich and deep and complex. If you haven’t had a chance to sample these see if you
can.
Reply
Kristen
on Jan 09, 2013
at 1:24 pm
Did you find the St. George gins too rogue to be included in this list?
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 09, 2013
at 2:47 pm
Too rogue or too rough?
Reply
Kristen
on Jan 09, 2013
at 4:39 pm
Rogue. But if you find them rough, that is answer enough. I was just curious.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 09, 2013
at 4:57 pm
We tasted the Rye Gin at a group tasting that included a lot of other spirits. Wasn’t blown away by it but
it’s really not a fair environment to evaluate a spirit. We’ve heard from them about getting samples so
hope to review them at a future date.
Reply
Limey
on Jan 09, 2013
at 2:41 pm
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Have you tried the Catoctin Creek Organic Watershed Gin from Virginia? What do you think of that one?
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 09, 2013
at 2:46 pm
We haven’t yet. Thanks for the recommendation, we’ll look for them.
Reply
Limey
on Jan 09, 2013
at 3:43 pm
It’s quite interesting. Floral and green.
Reply
Collin
on Jan 09, 2013
at 3:08 pm
I’m a fan of Leopold’s and Plymouth. I recently tried something called Hayman’s Old Tom, which I quite like. Tastes like
gin, but with a smoothness to it. I think Old Raj is pretty good, too.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 09, 2013
at 3:13 pm
Hayman’s and Old Raj are great. They didn’t make this list as it’s American Gins. But we are hard at work on our Top
Gins list overall.
Reply
Coltrane
on Jan 09, 2013
at 3:13 pm
Solid list, love the St. George Terroir though.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 09, 2013
at 3:13 pm
The NE Rep from them sent us a note after we published this list saying they wanted to get us samples…
Reply
Eric
on Jan 09, 2013
at 11:32 pm
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We really like Cardinal gin out of Kings Mountain, NC. They’ve been around a couple years and have only recently
expanded out of the Carolinas. We’ll need to try several of those from your list, though.
Reply
Harry
on Jan 10, 2013
at 12:16 am
I am not certain what you all consider “new”, but Ransom Cellars Old Tom Gin is excellent. Also, I see someone
mentioned Death’s Door which I also enjoy. There are a couple of great gins from the Midwest. The good folks at
Valentine in Michigan also make a wonderful gin as well as the folks at New Holland with their Knickerbocker Gin. Cheers.
Reply
Alan
on Jan 10, 2013
at 2:33 pm
I am surprised you missed Crater Lake Gin from Bendistillery in Bend, Oregon. They have been around since 1996 and, I
think, are the grandfather of the new American gin style. I am a huge fan of classic, Prohibition era cocktails and Crater
Lake is the best gin I have found that is in the style of what was being made in this country back then.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 10, 2013
at 2:39 pm
Oh we didn’t miss it. Crater Lake is a compounded or “bathtub” gin and so it didn’t rank in our top 10.
Reply
Jaco
on Jan 10, 2013
at 10:02 pm
Did you get around to trying the Leopold Bros overproof Navy strength gin? That is over 110 proof I believe (don’t have
the bottle in front of me), but it’s really quite fantastic to me, both straight, in cocktails, or just with a bit of tonic and
lime. I’d be curious as to where it places on your list if you’ve tried it.
Reply
Red
on Jan 21, 2013
at 3:25 pm
So the tasting review is not blind! You throw out Crater Lake Gin because you call it a bathtub gin? But it still tastes great!
Regardless of how it is made it is good. The Desert Juniper Gin is similar but lower alcohol and I see it has won a gold
medal at the San Francisco world spirits. Do you discount that one as well? You leave in Dry Fly Gin which by your own
account is barely classified as gin because of all the other stuff that goes into it. A gin, to be called a gin, must have the
predominate flavor of Juniper. Desert Juniper and Crater Lake Gin both use real Juniper Berries so not sure how you
would eliminate these from your list? They are the best gins I have ever tasted.
Reply
Drink Spirits
on Jan 21, 2013
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at 6:56 pm
Often our reviews are done blind, but a top 10 list brings together everything we’ve reviewed or tasted and we
judge which are the best. I’m glad you like Desert Juniper and Crater Lake Gin. Our take on these gins shouldn’t
detract from your enjoyment. We suggest however you try some of the gins on this list as we’re convinced you’ll
enjoy them even more than the two compounded gins from Bend Distillery.
Reply
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