beat street

Transcription

beat street

B E A T SA TU T URM NE 2 E0 1 T7
An ode to rainy sidewalks,
black turtlenecks & smoky
village cafes...
CI ND Y SH ERMAN
Cindy Sherman’s early work, Film Stills, captures female stereotypes with a vaguely beat,
early 60s aesthetic
J E A N SE B E RG
American actress Jean Seberg, star of
Godard’s “Breathless”, exemplified the
gamine style of the early 60s with her
pixie cut, bulky sweater & skinny pants.
J U L I ET T E GR ECO
French chanteuse Greco
earned the nickname
“la muse de l’existentialisme”; She was known for
her chic bohemian style,
shocking audiences with
her winged eyeliner, “black
trousers, her bare feet
slipped into
golden sandals”.
C HA RLOT TE
G A I N SB OURG
Gainsbourg,
daughter of
Jane Birken
& Serge
Gainsbourg,
projects a
mix of French
nouvelle
vague chic &
modern day
androgynous
cool.
APAC HE D A N C E R
PAT TI SM I TH
P UN K G ODDE SS
Apache (Ah-Pahsh)
dancing involved
fake violence
between partners;
the woman often
wore slit skirts and
fishnet stockings. A
modern-day example
of the dance is found
in Pink’s “Try” video.
Patti Smith, with her choppy
bangs, tees & jeans, has long
channeled beat poet heroes
like Allen Ginsberg, William
Burroughs & earlier French
symbolist Arthur Rimbaud.
STRE E T ST YLE
Simple black tops, shiny black pants
or miniskirts, & bulky sweaters
ART S MITH JEWELR Y
Greenwich Village jeweler
Art Smith helped define
the arty beat aesthetic. He said “Jewelry is
a ‘what is it?’ until you
relate it to the body.”
BEAT STREET
ANATOMY
of a L O O K
Public School
Pale blue for faded
denim & heathered
sweaters
PANTONE 1029
Dark wine for knits &
sweaters or mixed in
plaids
PANTONE 1029
Rainy day gray for
sweatshirts & faded
blacks
BEAT STREET
COLOR
STORY
PANTONE 1029
True black for everything, including shiny
patent pants
PANTONE 1029
Lipstick red for buffalo
plaids & leather items
PANTONE 1029
Softest baby fawn,
knits or suede jackets
PANTONE 1029
Luscious pink-cast
caramel for trenchcoats
& easy corduroy or
canvas items
PANTONE 1029
Yigal Azrouel
BEAT STREET / FALL-WINTER 2017 / MINTMODA
+
Anna Karenina, nouvelle vague muse to Goddard
+
Debbie Harry, punk goddess
=
Warsan Shire, poet, lyrics for Beyoncé Lemonade
BEAT STREET
FORMULA
LOOK
Nouvelle Vague Muse meets Punk Goddess at an midnight
poetry slam
WHO DID IT BEST
Acne, Alexander Wang, Courreges,
TREND
Black basics worn with arty attitude
TRIBE
Sophisticate & Rebel
TOTEMS
Black Turtleneck / Black Leather Jacket / Slit Skirt / Flats
RITUALS
Always has a Kerouac paperback in her handbag
Cuts her bangs daily
Wears fishnets whenever possible
CORE VALUES
Individuality, Anti-establishment, Art is Life
A.F. Vandevorst
BEAT STREET
KEY
LOOKS
It's a distillation
of female rebels:
Mod, Beat, Teddy Girl,
Punk, Grunge
Couregges
Isabel Marant
Françoise
Hardy
Te ddy
G i rl s
French 60s Yé-yé
singer who continues to inspire
with her timeless
beat style
1950s/60s UK
girls with tough
proto-punk style
that fused dandy
with rocker
Anthony Vaccarello
N21
B e at
C hi c k
G ru n ge
G odde ss
Beat girls wore
simple boat-neck
tops, black capri
pants & ballet
flats
Courtney Love
exemplifies the
post-beat, postpunk DIY mix of
sex, innocence &
grit
BEAT STREET / PATTERN
WRITTEN WORD
... brave souls who put their
messages out there
Christopher Kane
Gucci
Puma x Rihanna
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Each x Other
Alexander Wang
Gothic type / Graffiti drips / Handwritten looks / Glitchy type / Printed, screened or intarsia / Back placement
BEAT STREET / TRIMS
PIERCING
MIND
...wearing non-precious
anti-jewelry culled from the
Damir Doma
J. W. Anderson
Sibling
rough & mundane... grommets,
safety pins, staples, hammered
Christopher Kane
Alexander Wang
Opening Ceremony
Pierced effects as embellishment / Earring-type hoops for sweaters, closures, hems / Safety pins / Staples
BEAT STREET / DETAILS
(UN)CENSORED
... subverting the symbols of
censorship, appropriating
irony of 80s club invites...
Aquilano Rimondi
Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang
Gabriele Colangelo
Milly
Teatum Jones
A band of black / Sheer & opaque mixes / Dimensional effects / Bandeau bras under sheer tops
BEAT STREET / SWEATERS
MOCK OUT
It's about the iconic
turtleneck, ever reinvented,
ever the symbol of beat
Off White
Loewe
Acne
Barbara Casasola
Cedric Charlier
Nina Ricci
Beatnik black turtleneck, updated / Super snug & stretchy / Mesh versions / Draped necklines / Sculpted hems
bohemianism
BEAT STREET / SWEATERS
THE FUZZ
Or running for shelter under
a big fuzzy sweater...
Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini
R13
Alexander Wang
Milly
PPQ
Louis Vuitton
Brushed yarns / Large gauge for sheer effect / Pierced details / Off-shoulder / Short-sleeved / Active stripes
BEAT STREET / WOVEN SHIRTS
SHIRT FORM
It's about the poetry of the
plain, the beat of the basic...
AF Vandervost
Anthony Vaccarello
1205
Celine
Paul Smith
Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Classic or experimental shapes / Roomier fits / Dropped shoulder seams / Point collars / Crisp or silky
it's about plain jane for day &
cool chick for night
Ports 1961\
Mara Hoffman
Paul Joe
Shirtdresses evolve / Sheer overlayer / Sleeve interest /
Fitted sheaths in knits or wovens / Below-knee lengths with slits or openwork
BEAT STREET / DRESSES
SHIRTS +
SHEATHS
Miu Miu
Proenza Schouler
Opening Ceremony
BEAT STREET / SKIRTS
APACHE
DANCE
It's about the daring slash
of leg, anytime
David Koma
Ports 1961
Versace
Slit skirts / Asymmetric cuts / Extra long or to knee / Zipped patent / Worn with sneakers or flats for casual attitude
BEAT STREET / PANTS
SECOND
SKIN
... or the hot-tar sheen of
shiny black pants
BEAT STREET
Manuel Facchini
Carven
PPQ
Leather pants, matte or shiny, as new basic / Stretchy second-skin fit / Hi-gloss trouser / Glossy leggings / Zip hems
BEAT STREET / OUTERWEAR
TRUCK STOP
... Denim truckers found in
thrift shops, the more
beat-up the better
BEAT STREET
Lutz Huelle
Alexander Wang
R13
Trucker jackets, endlessly reinvented / Deconstructed approach / Bleached & distressed / Ratty fur lining is new
BEAT STREET / ACTIVE
PARKA
BENCH
... or sturdy parkas, always
practical & not too showy.
BEAT STREET
Acne
Balmain
Opening Ceremony
Parkas as the “it” outerwear / Timeless shapes / Crinkled leather or weather-proof cottons / Vintage active / Snaps
BEAT STREET / OUTERWEAR
WET
PAVEMENT
... It's about the shine of
wet pavement after a
rainy city night...
BEAT STREET
Xuly Bet
Antonio Berardi
Lanvin
High shine black surfaces for outerwear / Parkas or trenches / Leather, nylon, neoprene / Edgy yet elegant
It's giving each thing
value according to where
you found it & where
it's been
Acne
Alexander Wang
Loewe
Balmain
Alexander Wang
Isabel Marant
Tiny modernized cat-eyes / Weed print bag / Bucket shapes / Safety pins or chains / Wide belts are key
PPQ
BEAT STREET / ACCESSORIES
FOUND OBJECTS
... It's about walking the
same streets where the
legends walked before
Kenzo
you, adding your story
to theirs...
Altuzzara
Alexander Wang
Carven
Jason Wu
Classic with an edge / Block heels uptrend / Pointy toe pumps / 50s-60s meets 80s Punk sensibility
AF Vandervost
mportant
IsabelPerson
Marant
BEAT STREET / ACCESSORIES
KICK ASS
BEAT STREET / BEAUTY
IMPERFECT
ME
It's about the DIY beauty the
human gesture, the hand-drawn
Opening Ceremony
Isabel Marant
Burberry Prorsum
line, the self-chopped bang, the
steady, unflinching gaze....
Simone Rocha
PPQ
Kenzo
Pompadours for Teddy Girl style / Choppy bangs / Unpolished, DIY approach / Heavy wings / Glossed lips
MUST-HAVE
FLATS
Handknit sweater / Cocktail Sheath / Recut aviator / Slouchy pants / Flare skirt

beat street

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