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“S
cottish pattern and
tartan are all over the world so
it’s a strong identity which
everybody likes, uses and copies”
Karl lagerfeld
1
The fantastical
hand-crafted
jewellery inspired
by the Renaissance
THE show
highland
hot
in
From the designers, the jeans and the
models, to sari style, pop prints and
Parisian romance... Bazaar looks
ahead to the new season’s
unmissable fashion moments
chanel pre-fall 2013
Last month Sally Matthews took a journey
back in time as Chanel hosted its regal,
pre-fall collection in Scotland, for one of
the most majestical shows to date
Feathered fancies at
Chanel pre-fall 2013
n an icy cold December evening, among the looming ruins of
Linlithgow Palace in Scotland, Chanel showcased its magical
‘Métiers d’Arts: Paris-Edimbourg’ collection to a wrapped-up
fashion crowd, flown in from all over the world. Lying just outside
Scotland’s capital, Edinburgh, the palace was the birthplace of Mary,
Queen of Scots and provided the dramatic backdrop for the Scottish
inspired-show and one of the fashion highlights of 2012.
Lit up by flaming braziers and flickering candles shining light on
the crumbling walls, it was like stepping back into the 16th century.
We made our way to the palace’s great hall and chapel (now open to
the elements after being burnt down in 1746), where hot drinks and
tartan blankets, embossed with interlocking
Cs and Scottish thistles, sat waiting for
us on our benches. As if on cue, a flurry of
snow began to fall from the night sky
as Scottish model Stella Tennant stepped
out from among the ruins draped
in oversized knitwear and red plaid.
As expected from the destination, swathes
of luxe tartan, rich cashmere and tweed
ensued punctuated with stiff, pussy-bow
blouses and lashings of detailed ➤
chanel pre-fall 2013
O
WORds: sally matthews. BENOIT PeVERELLI
What’s
fling
Bazaar’s fashion
editor, Sally
Matthews, wrapped
up at the show
January 2013| Harper’s BAZAAR|35
news
The
Models backstage
adorned in
fabulous jeweller
Handsome bagpipers piped
guests from the show to the
Scottish banquet
Linlithgow Palace:
the stunning setting
for the Métiers
d’Arts show
Karoline
Bjornelykke
Anastasia
Ivanova
Christian Louboutin’s cheeky
fur touches looked perfect for
Michael van der Ham’s S/S13
FURRY
SHOES
Chanel sets the
trend for a spring/
summer full of fur
Chanel’s yeti like
walking shoes for
pre-fall 2013
36 | Harper’s BAZAAR | January 2013
“I
Chanel’s gloves
stylishly topped
off the look
don’t think in this presentation stilettos would
do well. This was an anti-stiletto collection”
embellishment. “Chanel discovered tweeds
and knits and all those things here,” Karl
Lagerfeld says, referring to his choice of
location and Coco Chanel’s time spent in
Scotland with her lover, the Duke of
Westminster. “Chanel also just bought Barrie
[a Scottish cashmere and knitwear company]
because nobody else can make better sweaters
than they do,” he added.
As with all Métiers d’Arts collections, the
show paid homage to the skill and
craftsmanship of the Chanel ateliers, featuring
everything from intricate beading and
embroidery to delicate knitwear, feather-work
and magnificently imagined jewellery. “It’s the
inspiration of Renaissance jewellery but done
in a very modern way and some are not even in
stones, they are in feathers and the most
unbelievable materials,” said Karl of the pieces
in the collection, which one could imagine
sitting proudly on lords and ladies of the glen.
karl lagerfeld
“It’s like we played with an idea but the idea is
taken to different places where it never came
from. We want to continue with new things
but with the tradition and craftsmanship of the
past,” he muses on the collection.
As with the fashionable audience, who were
advised to leave their gravity defying heels at
home in favour of something a little easier to
walk in (due to the windy walk from show
to dinner), the collection’s shoes were also flat,
as Karl opted for lace-up walking-style shoes
over heels. “This was an anti-stiletto collection”
Karl laughs. “I like the ease of the flat shoes with
the over-sophisticated look. For me it’s a kind of
romantic look with a touch of cool to it.”
Pale-skinned beauties such as Cara
Delevingne, Stella Tennant and Edie Campbell
looked doll-like as they tramped the stony
parameter of the palace’s great hall. Their
make-up and hair brought to life images of
Mary, Queen of Scots as make-up artist Peter
BENOIT PeVERELLI. JASON LLOYD-EVANS
Céline’s fluffy red pumps
made a statement on
the S/S13 catwalk
Cashmere knits were
made by Scotland’s
Barrie knitwear company
Stiff pussy-bow
blouses were
finished with
brooches and pearls
Phillips made their alabaster skin look
flushed, as if they had arrived fresh from
walking the rolling hills and glen, while hair
had been carefully crimped and braided for an
aristocratic feel and garnished with jewelled
headpieces, dreamt up by Scottish hair stylist
Sam McKnight.
The finale was an ethereal affair as wine
and moss-coloured tartans were replaced with
romantic ivory looks embellished with lace,
feathers and beading for a beautifully haunting
close to the show.
The show was then followed by a magical
torch-lit walk from the palace ruins, which
stood flood-lit in the background, to the
Scottish banquet taking place in an aweinspiring marquee. A row of kilt-clad bagpipers
stood on the misty hills piping us towards
dinner, where we were all treated to a royal
Scottish feast with fashion’s king, Karl
Lagerfeld, holding court. “I think Scotland
was, without knowing and asking for that
much, a big fashion influence,” Karl
finished. “Scottish pattern and tartan are
all over the world so it’s a strong identity
which everybody likes, uses and copies.”
With a pre-fall collection and journey as
captivating as this, haute highland
fashion is definitely worth investing
in for 2013. ■
Rouge
allure
To fit the Scottish
setting, redheads
ruled the runway
Edie
Campbell
Codie
Young
January 2013| Harper’s BAZAAR|37