His kind of Chinatown
Transcription
His kind of Chinatown
full page ad Where do Rick Bayless and other top Chicago chefs go when they crave tasty, unpretentious grub? We follow seven of them to their favorite ethnic enclaves and get them to dish on the city’s best, most authentic cheap eats. photography by Tim Klein His kind of Chinatown Italian for beginners Chef Calvin Soh of Shanghai Terrace reveals how to shop & eat in the Asian haven without getting your duck cooked. hand-carved wooden mooncake molds used for traditional (2161 S China Pl, 312-791red-bean filled pies, as well as Chinese dim sum rolling pins. 0888), where he scarfs down When it comes to cleavers, he swears by the ultra light and mini mooncakes & the flaky, sharp blades made by Chan Chi Kee, which he can find in sweet-and-savory egg cakes Chicago only at this shop. “Every Chinese chef knows this with a pickled duck egg hidBy Lisa Shames brand,” he says. den inside. But Soh doesn’t For the best Peking duck in the city—after his own, of go too far overboard on the No matter how low the buying power of the U.S. dollar course—Soh heads toward the end of the block to Tao Ho Yee sugar. “An important part of goes, it’s still a heck of a lot cheaper to buy exotic Asian inFood Co. (2422 S Wentworth Ave, 312-225-9828). What the food is to create a comfortgredients in Chicago than in Singapore. At least that’s how miniscule takeout shop lacks in decor, it more than makes able feeling after the meal is Calvin Soh sees it. He should know: As chef de cuisine at up for with the quality of its duck, which is served at the eaten,” he says. Shanghai Terrace, the fine-dining restaurant in The Peninsula Ritz-Carlton and Four Seasons. As if to prove Soh’s point, the Chicago known for its authentic Shanghai and Cantonese shop turns out to have already sold out by early afternoon. cuisine, this Singapore native is no stranger to birds’ nests, Lesson learned: Arrive early in the morning (8am) or at wild ginseng and dried abalone. To find these and more fanoon—the shop cooks its ducks in two daily shifts. Better miliar Asian items—whether it’s for the Shanghai Terrace’s yet, call a day ahead and reserve one. regular menu, a traditional banquet feast in a private dining Sometimes even Peking duck isn’t enough to cure Soh’s room or even his home kitchen—Soh heads to Chinatown. homesickness, so when the pangs hit hard, he heads to When he arrived in Chicago a year and a half ago, Penang (2201 S Wentworth Ave, 312-326-6888). “This is fresh from working as chef de cuisine at the Raffles Hotel where I can find food that’s most similar to what I could eat Singapore, where he was also responsible for its culinaryback home,” he says. Here among the Tiki lounge decor, he academy cooking classes, Soh learned about the best spots in always orders roti canai, an Indian-style pancake he often Chinatown from the experts: his cooks. After scoring insider ate for breakfast growing up (“It’s crispy and retips on the best stores, restaurants and markets, and followally nice with curry sauce”); the chicken and beef HERB APPEAL The bah kut teh (pork soup) at ing up on his intel with frequent visits, Soh says proudly, “I satay; popia, a Malaysian spring roll; and bah kut Penang is rich in healthy greens and spices. know Chinatown better than most locals.” teh, an herb-rich pork rib consommé. He’s such a regular at Ten Ren Tea and Ginseng Co. (2247 Chinatown Market (2121 S Archer Ave, 312S Wentworth Ave, 312-842-1171) that he often hangs out 881-0068) is the place to hit for the freshest live seafood and there on his day off, chatting with the owner-manager—Mr. fish, Soh says. He especially likes the black grouper, sea snails— Fine to you. “I love to spend time with him to learn his se“You need to clean them well & soak overnight”—and geoduck, crets about tea,” Soh says, like how to tell the difference bea type of clam—“It’s ugly, but really great for sashimi.” When tween spring and winter harvests (tip: Spring-harvested tea is preparing live eel (assuming it doesn’t escape from the plastic Ten Ren Tea and Ginseng Co. better, as the flavors are more delicate). “I’ve learned how to bag you take it home in), Soh recommends placing the squirmy Osmanthus Oolong tea, $139/lb buy tea from him.” Among the large, copper-colored canisters, snakelike fish on a cutting board and driving a nail through (about 69 cents per cup); Soh points to Osmanthus Oolong tea as one of his favorites. each end of its body to keep it from slithering to freedom. Not Jasmine Beauty Ring tea, $25/4oz The $139-per-pound price might induce sticker shock, but into cutting up a live eel? Squeamish types can opt for the mara pound of tea brews 200 cups. “When I’m stressed out in ket’s cleaning and cutting services, Soh notes. Fat Lee Grocers the restaurant, I make a pot of this to help me relax,” Soh For the rest of his shopping list, Soh crosses the street to Sun dried black beans, $1.20 says. The glass jar of prepackaged Jasmine Beauty Ring tea the open-air mall on Archer Avenue. At Yin Wall City Inc. Woks ’N’ Things also catches his eye, but he says it’s better to buy loose tea to (2112 S Archer Ave, 312-225-2888), Soh runs around like Mooncake molds, $3.95–$20.95; guarantee its purity. a kid in a candy store, except instead of sweets, he’s droolDim-sum rolling pins, $3.95; Next door at Fat Lee Grocers (2243 S Wentworth Ave, ing over exotic herbs and dried seafood (a common pairChan Chi Kee cleavers, $40–$46 312-881-9289), Soh heads to the back of the tiny store and ing in Hong Kong, he says), including a large variety of birds’ Tao Ho Yee Food Co. grabs a yellow can of Sun brand dried black beans, which he nests, dried mushrooms, pickled vegetables and dried abaloDuck, $13.50 whole; $6.50 half uses to season and marinate meat. “If you use these black ne. Reaching his hands into barrels of dried ginseng, he rePenang beans, you don’t need to use salt or sugar,” he says. Across veals the best varieties come from—of all places—Wisconsin. Roti canai the street at Woks ’N’ Things (2234 S Wentworth Ave, 312“I think all Asian people know this,” he says. The birds’ nests (Indian-style pancake), $3.50; 842-0701), Soh demonstrates how Asian chefs measure inare made from the saliva of cave-dwelling swifts (swallowChicken and beef satay, $6.50; gredients with a ladle and how to use one to carry a hot or like birds) in China (Grossed out? Soh compares the process Popia heavy wok: Take the round end of the ladle and insert it perto that of honey-producing bees). Though they’re expen(Malaysian spring roll), $5.95; pendicular to the handle inside of the wok until it catches, sive here—think $220 an ounce and up—they still cost half Bah kut teh (pork consommé), helping to distribute the weight. Soh also points out some what they would in Singapore, & are known as a “secret for $7.25–$15 Oriental beauty,” believed to enhance the skin when eaten, Chinatown Market Soh says. (After two days of soaking and double-boiling the Black grouper, $16.99/lb; nests, Soh creates a chilled dessert soup for the restaurant with Sea snails, $3.99/lb; ginseng and Chinese red dates.) Looking to make a flavorful riGeoduck, $19.95/lb; sotto or soup? Soh recommends throwing a small handful ($8 Eel, $8.99/lb worth) of dried scallops into the pot (soak them first in water Yin Wall City Inc. to rehydrate). “You don’t need to use a lot because the flavor is Dried ginseng $49.50–$475/lb; more concentrated and intense,” he says. Birds’ nests, $220/oz and up; Like many of Chicago’s foodies, when Soh craves Dried scallops $68.50/lb Chinese food he heads to Tony Hu’s restaurants, including Lao Shanghai (2163 S China Pl, 312-808-0830)—Soh’s a Lao Shanghai big fan of its xiao long bao or “juicy buns”—and Lao Beijing Xiao long bao (“juicy buns”), $4.95 (2138 S Archer Ave, 312-881-0168). “For Chinese food in Captain Café & Bakery Chinatown, chef Tony is the best,” he says. Mini mooncakes, 55¢ each; Just like any great dinner, a Chinatown tour should end Egg cakes, 70¢ each SOMETHING FISHY Soh grabs a handful of with something sweet. Soh goes to Captain Café & Bakery THE TAB dried scallops at Yin Wall City Inc. A f ine-dining Italian chef steps out of his glass castle to gather fuel on Harlem Avenue. By Heather Shouse “Where else are you going to find this kind of cheese?” Tony Mantuano asks no one in particular as he holds up a fat, strawyellow wedge plucked from a case at Caputo’s Cheese Market (1931 N 15th Ave, Melrose Park, 708-450-0469). When a guy like Mantuano gets excited about cheese, you know it’s good stuff. As chef-partner of Mag Mile gem Spiaggia, Mantuano personally oversaw the addition of a “cheese cave,” or climatecontrolled display case, and remains intent on schooling finediners on top-notch Italian products. “Nowhere, that’s where,” he continues, answering his own question, cheese still aloft. “Vacche rose, or red cow, from Parmigiano-Reggiano will break the bank. So Caputo found this red-cow cheese produced in Latvia. It’s $4.49 a pound, and it’s delicious.” Though the cheese market is a hefty detour west from the Italian enclave of Harlem Avenue, it’s always the first stop Mantuano makes when coming to the area. “Hey, where’s your dad?” he asks Natale Caputo, son of the market’s founder, Pasquale. “Where else? In Italy,” Caputo replies. The cheesemonger and chef stroll the store and Mantuano picks up his favorite finds: Locatelli pecorino (“a great brand for the money; shave over pasta,” he says); Sardinian Nuraghe (“delicious sheep’s milk”); and Monte Caputo (“They have it made just for them, it’s like a Crotonese table cheese, lightly sweet and salty”). After a quick stop in the cheesemaking room, where Caputo lets the chef grab little bocconcini of still-warm mozz from the production line, Mantuano heads for Harlem’s main drag, where a handful of Italian-run specialty shops and cafés remain even after the scattering of the area’s southern Italian immigrants. Caputo’s Grocery (2560 N Harlem Ave, 708-4530155) is a quick stop for cheap Italian produce (and it’s owned by a relative of the Melrose Park cheesemongers). Mantuano points out good deals on Andy Boy Farm’s rapini, cubanelle frying peppers and fresh fava beans, as well as pork belly for $2.69 a pound (“Apparently, no one told them it was in vogue”). But he scoffs at the basic supermarket-quality fish selection. For seafood around these parts, there’s no substitute for Mercato del Pesce (2623 N Harlem Ave, 773-889-7909). He’s talking up the shop’s mackerel as he enters, but it’s clear he’ll buy whatever looks good. Italian is spoken rapid-fire among two olive-skinned women and the fishmonger while Mantuano examines the case lined with sardines, baby octopus, red mullet, orata (dorade), spigola (striped bass), baby shark and fat clusters of mollusks in a few shapes and sizes. “I have no idea where they’re getting some of this stuff, and they’ll never tell me in a hundred years,” Mantuano jokes, loud enough for owners Dominick Conenna and Vince DeVito to hear. A little more friendly banter, and Mantuano’s ready for lunch. “If I’m with the family, I’ll go to Caponie’s (3350 N Harlem Ave, 773-804-9024) for a pretty good Italian-American pizza cooked in a wood-burning oven,” Mantuano confides. But today, there’s a Diavolo sandwich at Riviera Italian Foods (3220 N Harlem Ave, 773-637-4252) with his name on it. Behind the counter in the back of the small deli, owner Carmelo Pugliese builds Mantuano’s sandwich with nothing but foods he makes himself, stacking spicy soppressata, coppa, fresh mozzarella and chunky giardiniera onto a torpedo roll while the chef scans the aisles for Giuseppe Cocco noodles, his preferred brand of dry pasta. Pugliese’s wife, Caterine, insists Mantuano take a twinewrapped log of soppressata, and throws in a container of rosso marina, tiny ice fish in fiery brine traditionally spread on bread. Just as Mantuano’s finishing off the sandwich at a sidewalk table in front of the adjacent “social club” Societa San Pietro & Paolo (3222 N Harlem Ave, no phone), a silver-haired guy wearing a T-shirt with a map of Italy pops his head out of the bar and insists Mantuano come in for an espresso. The guy introduces himself as “Nicky,” and motions to the man behind the tiny bar who’s digging into a little soppressata of his own. “Hey, Rocky, pull a couple,” and in minutes tiny cups of espresso appear. Mantuano’s impressed by the brew and learns the beans come from nearby Caffe Italia (2625 N Harlem Ave, 773-8890455). “This would be perfect with those sesame-seed cookies across the street,” Mantuano says, motioning to Palermo Bakery (3317 N Harlem Ave, 773-777-5957). “They make them the best, browned and crisp.” “The best,” Nicky boasts, “is this soppressata from Carmelo next door.” He motions to the sliced-into sausage lying on butcher paper on the bar. As if on cue, Carmelo appears, still in his apron, and looks sheepish as the men in the bar brag about him loudly. Nicky turns to Mantuano and bellows, “You’re a chef so you know your stuff, so tell him, isn’t this stuff the best?” THE TAB Ghareeb Nawaz Chicken biryani, $4.35; Paratha rolls, $3.25 Fresh Farms Mango powder, $1.29; Kalonji seeds, $5.99; Karelas, $1.49/six-pack Kamdar Plaza Dhokla, $4.99/lb; Khandvi, $7.99/lb Tahoora Halwa puri breakfast, $4; Rasmalai, $6.75/lb Sabri Nehari Nehari, $8.49; Moong dal, $6.99 JK Kabab Seekh kebab, $7.49 Khan B.B.Q. Chicken pulao, $7 Lahore Food & Grill Chicken charga, $6 Devon Intervention Two chefs–one Pakistani, the other from Bangladesh—devour Little India’s specialty groceries, sweets & handheld eats. By Heather Shous It’s a few minutes after 10am, and heads for first,” Ameen says, walking toward Mohammad Islam is chugging chai tea while shelves in the back that groan from the weight eyeing the door of Fresh Farms Market (2626 of ultra-ripe produce. “It’s supercheap but you W Devon Ave, 773-764-3557), seemingly have to use it right away,” she explains, and planning a quick getaway to an adjacent snack grabs a pack of what look like craggy, knobshop. Islam and his wife, Malika Ameen, are by zucchini, explaining they’re karelas (bitter the owners and chefs of River North’s Aigre gourds) that are traditionally split lengthwise, Doux, but they aren’t shopping at their favorsalted to extract some of the bitterness, then ite Devon Avenue market with the restaurant stuffed with spiced ground beef, fried and addin mind. They’re picking up Indian specialed to a tomato-based sauce. ties for their three kids, a brood that’s alAfter paying, Ameen heads a few doors ready developed quite a palate from growing down to catch up with her husband, who’s up with a Pakistani-American mother and a Bangladeshi father, both chefs. SHELF HELP Malika Ameen and her husband, “I have low blood sugar, I tell you,” Mohammad Islam, shop for their international Islam jokes. “I made Malika stop at household at Fresh Farms Market. Ghareeb Nawaz (2032 W Devon Ave, 773-761-5300) before we came here for one of their paratha rolls filled with omelette.” He found the flaky breakfast wrap on a tip from Ameen’s father, an immigrant from Pakistan. (Dad’s a big fan of Ghareeb’s chicken biryani, a seasoned rice dish, and handheld paratha wraps, especially those stuffed with slightly charred beef.) Ameen fills her cart with colorful packages of dried mango powder (labeled amchur, which adds sour punch to soups and sauces) and jetblack kalonji seeds that she uses to impart a nutty, peppery flavor when pickling. “This is the part of the store my mom already charming the women behind the counter at Kamdar Plaza (2646 W Devon Ave, 773-338-8100), inquiring in Urdu when the next batch of dhokla will be pulled from the oven. Kamdar is the best place in town for this savory, spongy, steamed cake of gram flour and yogurt native to the Gujarat area of India. “They’re the only people who make it right,” Islam claims. “That, and khandvi, another Gujarati specialty made with similar ingredients but rolled thin like a tiny crêpe and topped with cilantro, chiles and mustard seeds.” Nearby sweet shop Tahoora (2345 W Devon Ave, 773743-7272) is the couple’s preferred weekend brunch spot, when the counter-service snack shop/bakery offers a classic breakfast plate of halwa (semolina cooked with clarified butter), puri (puffy fried breads), chole (chickpea curry) and aloo saag (potatoes and spinach) with raita (yogurt) and achar (pickle). But since it’s a weekday, they settle on rasmalai, fluffy sweetcheese dumplings swimming in thick, snow-white milk that both agree Tahoora does best. They still need to grab lunch, so Ameen considers her father’s favorites nearby. “We go to Sabri Nehari (2502 W Devon Ave, 773743-6200) for this Pakistani dish nehari, tender beef in a rich gravy. It’s very homestyle there. We get that, the moong dal, yellow lentils with curry leaves and mustard seeds,” she says. Continuing the roll call of options with her husband, she contemplates JK Kabab House (6412 N Rockwell St, 773-761-6089) for its excellent seekh, grilled kebabs of spiced ground beef, then Khan B.B.Q. (2401 W Devon Ave, 773-274-8600), preferred on Fridays when the stewlike chicken pulao is served, and Lahore Food & Grill (2114 W Devon Ave, 773-761-4919), a cabbie joint that “Dad loves for the juicy, spicy fried chicken charga.” The mere mention of fried chicken sets Islam in motion toward Lahore. Apparently a decision has been made, and father knows best. Pork Patrol COUNTER CULTURE Bayless takes a breather in front of a bowl of goat consommé and a plate of tacos at Birriería Reyes de Ocotlan. Frontera Grill’s Rick Bayless gets spicy with snacks (and an unbeatable tres leches cake) in Pilsen. By David Tamarkin Somewhere along the line, between running his restaurants, making public appearances, writing his cookbooks and filming his television show, Rick Bayless has learned how to talk expertly with a mouth full of carnitas. “There are two flavor profiles in Mexican food,” he says between bites of a taco at Don Pedro Carnitas (1113 W 18th St, 312-829-4757): home food and street food. “Street food almost always has this super well-cooked fatty element in it that is completely balanced by straight, bright acid.” He squeezes some lime on his taco. “When Mexicans go to Europe, they’re just incredulous. There is nothing to balance all that heaviness. They consider it a really super one-dimensional cuisine. They’re always reaching for a lime or a pickle or something—an acid.” He swallows, takes another bite. “The street-food balance in Mexico is very much about the fatty [being] as strong as the acid. And that’s why all the salsas in Mexico are not based on tomatoes, they’re based on tomatillos. Because they’re hugely more acidic.” He eyes the bottles of tomatillo salsa on the table, glances at the plate of pork in front of him. He reaches for the salsa but stops himself. “I shouldn’t do this, because I’m going to get too full, but it’s really good,” he says. He stands up. “Have you seen the copper pots in back?” As much as Bayless loves the carnitas here, he loves the handmade copper pots they’re made in almost more. In the back of the restaurant, there are three Jacuzzi-sized pots, bubbling wildly, the ears and snouts of pigs rising to the top. Bayless looks at the pots with a mixture of hunger and awe but finally manages to turn away. On his trips to Pilsen, carnitas are just the beginning. Rick Bayless He heads west. He passes flower shops and bakeries, but doesn’t even slow down to glance in the windows. He’s focused on his next taco, and when he takes a seat at the counter of Birrería Reyes de Ocotlan (1322 W 18th St, 312-733-2613), he orders three: one cabeza, a mixture of cheeks, jowls and other Caputo’s Cheese Market meat from the head of a cow; Latvian red-cow one lengua, chopped beef cheese, $4.49/lb; tongue; and one of the eponLocatelli pecorino, $8.99/lb; ymous birria—a fat taco overSardinian Nuraghe, $3.99/lb; stuffed with juicy, shredded Monte Caputo, $4.49/lb goat meat. Caputo’s Grocery Bayless knows some peoRapini, $2.99/lb; ple have problems with goat. Cubanelles, 79¢/lb; The city banned it from the Fava beans, 99¢/lb; Maxwell Street Market, and Pork belly, $2.69/lb customers at his restaurants Mercato del Pesce are often shocked when they Orata, $7.99/lb; read the word goat on the Spigola, $7.99/lb menu. “[To them,] it’s as biRiviera Italian Foods zarre as saying ‘cat tacos,’ Diavolo sandwich, $3.50; or something like that,” he Giuseppe Cocco pasta, $2.49/8.8oz says. But he can’t get enough of the stuff. He takes turns Societa San Pietro & Paolo noshing on all three of the Espresso, $1.50 tacos, ignoring for the moPalermo Bakery ment the bowl of consomSesame-seed cookies, $6.89/lb mé—made with the savory goat drippings—that sits THE TAB steaming to his right. It’s a thin but lush soup, and earlier Bayless had taken dried chiles and cracked them, sprinkling the shards into the broth. But the consommé fills a need he doesn’t have right now. “Practically everything served in a taquería at some point or another can be a hangover cure,” he says. “The thing is, if you put a lot of these chiles in there, chiles do that thing that speeds up your heart rate and it gets your blood flowing faster, and usually that will help a hangover.” He samples a couple spoonfuls of soup and pushes it away. The tacos are only half eaten, but he’s already on the move again—there’s more to be consumed. On the way to Restaurant La Casa Del Pueblo (1834 S Blue Island Ave, 312421-4664), Bayless puts in a good word for that Mexican institution, the grocery-store eatery. “If you have a Mexican grocery near you, the taquería that’s inside of that place is really a good bet, typically,” he explains. La Casa is next door to its grocery-store counterpart, and is not so much a taquería as it is a fonda—a Mexican diner. All kinds of homestyle Mexican dishes are displayed cafeteria-style, including tortas de camaron (fried shrimp patties) and chicharrónes en salsa verde (pork rinds that have been soaked in a green-chile sauce). All of it is “super homey,” Bayless says. Though he admits that the chicharrónes are “an acquired taste.” Hankering for cecina—a jerkylike dried beef—and thoroughly sick of tacos by this point, Bayless makes his next stop Taquería Cardona’s (1451 W 18th St, 312-492-8059). There, he reads on the menu that the cecinas are made from sirloin. He’s incredulous. Calling over the server, he fires off some questions in Spanish. She agrees that the cecina is definitely not sirloin, but more likely a cut from the round. And, she adds proudly, it’s cured in-house. Bayless orders a huarache, a flat oval of masa (tortilla dough) topped with cecina. At the same time, somebody else in the restaurant orders a mango agua fresca, and the server heads directly to a blender, pureeing the sweet, fresh mango and pouring it into a square goblet. When the huarache is served, it’s covered in iceberg lettuce—probably an American addition, Bayless says—but that does little to interfere with the intricate beefy and briny flavor of the chopped cecina. Soon, he’s on his way to Kristoffer’s Cafe (1733 S Halsted St, 312-829-4150), a coffee shop/bakery he has been tipped off to by a friend. The tres leches cake is rumored to be great, but now, looking at the menu, Bayless is a little dubious. There are all kinds of three-milks (condensed, evaporated and regular) cake here, some in sacrilegious variations—flavors like eggnog, caramel, piña colada and Kahlua. “Here in the United States we tend to want 31 flavors of everything,” he mutters. But when he sees that Kristoffer’s serves chocoflan, he practically melts. “Chocoflan,” he says longingly. “I didn’t see that!” Bayless is more than familiar with chocoflan, though in his world it’s called pastel imposible (impossible cake). The dish conglomerates chocolate cake and flan, but here’s the impossible part: Though the cake starts at the bottom of the pan, and the flan on top, the two flip-flop during the baking process, resulting in a pastel where the chocolate is on top and flan is on the bottom. It’s a huge hit on Bayless’s TV show, so he has to try a piece here, as well as a slice of traditional tres leches and—what the hell—a Kahlua- full page ad flavored slice, too. He swoons at the first taste of chocoflan. And the tres leches—it isn’t good, it’s more than good. It is sumptuous without being soggy, satisfying without being overly sweet. Bayless sits at the table and falls into deep thought, forking cake into his mouth in silence. Finally, he walks up to the counter and asks to speak to the couple who own the place. He doesn’t have to introduce himself—they’ve been excited since he walked in. Now, as he gets ready to address them, they hold on to each other in nervous anticipation. “I’ve eaten a lot of tres leches in Mexico,” he tells them. “And this—this is the best one I’ve ever had.” THE TAB Don Pedro Carnitas Carnitas taco, $1.50 each Birrería Reyes de Ocotlan Tacos, $1.50–$2.35; Consommé, $1.60 Restaurant La Casa Del Pueblo Torta de camaron, $1.95; Chicharrónes, $6.95 Taquería Cardona’s Huaraches, $4.20; Agua fresca, $1.99 Kristoffer’s Cafe Cakes, $4.25/slice Salam Meet in the Middle ... East The gents from Alhambra Palace show us what to eat, where to shop and how to be treated like royalty on Kedzie Avenue. By David Tamarkin When Kher Albourine and Dino Morched—the chef and general manager, respectively, of Alhambra Palace —walk into Salam (4636 N Kedzie Ave, 773583-0776), it’s just to grab a kabob or two, and maybe a plate of hummus. They don’t expect to dip into baba ghanoush, or tear open fresh spinach pies. They don’t plan to get kibbeh, football-shaped bulgar-wheat dumplings stuffed with ground beef, or freshly fried falafel. But despite their mild protests, food keeps coming. Albourine eschews forks for the meal—he rips pita bread instead, dipping it into the hummus and grabbing a morsel of meat. The falafel, he says, is fresh, noting that it’s only good for ten to 15 minutes after it’s fried. “You don’t like it if it’s cold,” Albourine warns. Same thing with the shawarma. “It’s not like gyros,” says Morched, who used to work in Greektown and would watch in horror as trucks delivered frozen gyro meat to restaurants. “They make it here.” As he says this, a meat pie is dropped off at the table. Morched tries to explain the influx of unordered food as a tenet of Middle Eastern culture. In his homeland of Morocco, “Whatever you have cooked, you give it [to the guest]. That’s how deep the hospitality is.” It’s a nice theory, but it ignores one key fact: When Morched walked into the place, he was immediately greeted by an acquaintance, who turned out to be the manager. The same acquaintance refuses to let the gentlemen pay for their meal when they leave to go next door to Nazareth Sweets (4638 N Kedzie Ave, 773-463-2457). But as the men gaze at a pastry case of flaky desserts, Morched’s theory gains traction. “Close your eyes and pick [any pastry] and it will be the right thing,” he says. It turns out he doesn’t have to pick anything. The owners grab various housemade sweets— sticky baklava stuffed with pistachios, rich kunefe, a pastry made with sweet cheese—and push them across the counter. The men laugh and talk as if they’ve known each other for years, and once again the customers exit without having to dig into their wallets. You’d never guess they’d met the owners minutes ago. “Talk about hospitality!” Morched says. “You see how you don’t have to ask anybody. If you go to a grocery store, it will be the same thing.” To illustrate his point, they head to Andy’s Fruit Ranch (4733 N Kedzie Ave, 773-5832322). Walking the aisles, the men point out good deals on Middle Eastern staples (like three-liter tins of Sultan olive oil for $26.99), warn against the terrible flavor of canned hummus and point out the brands they trust, such as the dry goods by Ziyad (they use this couscous in their restaurant). Finally, Morched sees one of the store’s clerks. “Hello, my friend!” Morched says, putting his arm around the man and chatting him up in Arabic. The clerk listens intently, but then confesses, “I don’t know what you’re saying.” Morched looks confused. “You’re not Middle Eastern?” “I’m Italian,” the clerk says. But that’s okay. Morched finds other friends at Al Khayameih Bakery (4738 N Kedzie Ave, 773-583-3077) across the street. There, a huge oven stands near the front windows, breathing hot air into the place and baking dozens of cheese pies; various Middle Eastern breads like pita and its thinner cousin, lavash, lie in still-warm bags on the floor. Just up the street, at Farm Meat Market (4810 N Kedzie Ave, 773-588-1266), Morched and Albourine are again treated like stars. “This is the freshest meat in town. They don’t freeze anything,” Morched says. The two don’t even pretend to buy anything. They just wander around, pointing at the lamb, the kidney, the liver. “Thank you,” Morched says to the owner as he walks out. “For you?” the owner replies, beaming, “No problem.” Hummus plate, $4.99; Baba ghanoush, $4.99; Shawarma sandwich, $5; Spinach pie, $1.69; Meat pie, $1.69 Nazareth Sweets Baklava, $7.50/lb; Kunefe, $3 each Al Khayameih Bakery Pita and lavash, $1.60 per 10 ROYAL TREATMENT Chef Albourine of Alhambra Palace gets treated like a king at Salam. Comfortably ’Nam Argyle Street’s encased meats & fragrant herbs bring back sweet Saigon memories for Viet Bistro’s transplanted chef. By Julianne Will Foodies know Dan Nguyen as the chef who ran the upscale restaurant Pasteur with his brother, Tuan, then closed that in 2007 to open Viet Bistro (1346 W Devon Ave, 773465-5720) with his wife, Kim. But few may realize Nguyen made a living on oil rigs before moving on to cooking oil. After studying petroleum engineering in college, Nguyen worked on an off-shore operation near Louisiana. Eventually Nguyen’s mother asked him to help his brother in the restaurant business in Chicago, so in 1986 he braved the cold and came north. Here, at least, he can find the tropical flavors of hot Saigon, where he was born and lived until the fall of the city in 1975. “I need this for my restaurant,” Nguyen says as he digs through the lemongrass, a tropical herb, at Tai Nam Food Market (4925 N Broadway, 773-275-5666). He chooses fat stalks: Nguyen grinds the pale bottom of the lemongrass in a food processor and stir-fries it with meat. He chops the tough, narrow stems and simmers them in soup. “It’s very versatile,” he says of the lemongrass, gesturing with a handful of stalks. Tai Nam is one of his favorite places for produce. “They have a lot of stuff to offer their customers fresh,” Nguyen says. While Nguyen shops for bulk items for Viet Bistro at a restaurant-supply center, he comes to Tai Nam to pick up small quantities of whatever he’s run out of. It’s inexpensive and, perhaps just as important to him, the market offers parking. Mien Hoa Market (1108 W Argyle St, 773334-8393) is another solid choice, Nguyen says. Here, he can find galangal, which is similar to ginger root. He might also pick up some bok choy, kaffir lime leaves or tamarind. On the opposite side of the street, the brownish-orange color of the roast duck hanging in the window of Sun Wah Vietnamese BBQ (1134 W Argyle St, 773-769-1254) suggests the restaurant doesn’t use much red dye in its hoisin sauce, Nguyen says. Even better, “the taste is just like back home.” Nguyen likes to pop in, place his roast-duck order to go, then wait outside until it’s chopped and ready; otherwise, he says, you end up smelling like duck. Nguyen cooks all day, so he lets someone else do the work on his day off. One of his favorite restaurants is Dong Kinh Pho (1129 W Argyle St, 773-271-2199). “I normally order something that I’m too lazy to cook at my place,” Nguyen says. “They offer really, really authentic food.” He might be a bit biased—the restaurant is run by one of his former staffers. Rashed Islam, Nguyen’s front-of-house manager and sommelier at Viet Bistro, joins him for lunch, noting the jicama in the spring rolls is cut to just the right thickness. Nguyen chooses the seafood rice stick noodles soup, No. 49. It’s served with bean sprouts, basil leaves, hot peppers and a wedge of lime so you can season the soup to taste. And no meal is complete without a glass of iced coffee, made with chicory and richly sweetened with condensed milk. If he wants something simple, Nguyen might slip next door to the Chiu Quon Bakery (1127 W Argyle St, 773-907-8888). Glass cases hold all kinds of temptations: steamed buns with barbecued pork or cabbage and a bean-paste cake for dessert. There’s seating, but Nguyen often gets his treats to go. He can find even more tempting take-out items at Ba Le (5018 N Broadway, 773-561-4424), the closest thing to a deli on this stretch of Argyle. Chicken, meatball or pork-skin sandwiches (banh mi) on baguettes are topped with daikon, grated carrots and cilantro or mint. Islam also likes the Bach Cuc–brand prepackaged curry beef jerky the deli stocks, which is marinated in five spices, making it soft and crumbly rather than chewy. Nguyen points out the Vietnamese spiced pâtés and sausages in the cooler: “This is how [the Vietnamese] took the French concept of sausage and made it their own,” he says. Nguyen also recommends the che ba, three-bean drinks from the cooler, sweetened with coconut milk. If you’re drinking it on the spot, the people behind the counter will add shaved ice. When you can get a concoction like this, why would you ever order another plain iced latte? GOOD GRASS Nguyen grabs some lemongrass at Tai Nam Food Market. THE TAB Tai Nam Food Market Lemongrass, $1.09/lb Mien Hoa Market Galangal (frozen), $5.50/lb Sun Wah Vietnamese BBQ Roast duck, $7.25 medium; $13.50 large Dong Kinh Pho Spring rolls, $3; Seafood rice stick noodles soup, $7.50; Iced coffee, $3 Chiu Quon Bakery Steamed buns (pork or cabbage), 95¢ each; Bean-paste cake, 95¢ each Ba Le Banh mi sandwich, $2.95–$3.25; Bach Cuc beef jerky, $17.50/lb; Che ba bean drink, $2.95 Cruising for kimchi For the best fermented veggies, blood sausage & fried chicken, Le Lan’s chef insists a trek to Niles is worth your while. By Julianne Will Bill Kim may be about to open pan-Asian noodle shop Urban Belly in Logan Square, but his stomach remains loyal to his mom’s Korean dishes. Because he’s the chef at upscale FrenchAsian restaurant Le Lan, she’s tried to add some American touches to her cooking. But he’s having none of it. “I want Korean food,” he says. “I just want something very simple.” Take kimchi, a quintessential Korean dish of fermented vegetables—often napa cabbage, radishes and hot peppers. For the best, he suggests a trip to Super H Mart (Civic Center Plaza, at Oakton St and Waukegan Rd, Niles, 847-5811212), Niles’s big-box answer to a swelling Asian suburban population. There, it’s easy to discern variations in rows of glass jars. Vibrant greens mean fresh kimchi, he says; a slight brownish hue is a sign of age, which gives the fermented vegetables a stronger, tangier taste. “Koreans are very fussy about their kimchi.” “You don’t see a lot of Korean stores that have their own tofu department,” Kim says as he peers into the open kitchen near the back of the store. But even tofu addicts should stay away from Super H Mart on Sundays if they’re hoping to get in and out quickly---—the place is jumping. “If you’re Korean,” Kim says, “eventually you’ll run into someone you know.” In one of the little shops inside Super H QUITE A SPREAD Le Lan’s chef, Bill Kim, enjoys some Mart surrounding the grocery, you can inkalbi, (marinated short ribs) at Arirang in Niles. dulge in hot, double-fried chicken at Toreore’s Chicken and Joy (847-965-0311). Kim orders the No. 1, marinated fried chicken, a 14-piece blood sausage. Slices dipped in seasoned salt feast with shredded daikon radish on the side. go down like cheese fries at the ballpark and “I love the pickled radish, which provides a light taste more like ramen noodles than pork blood. touch to a heavy dish,” he says. Kimchi comes standard, but other sides vary, Kim Just around the corner at the same strip mall says. Cool, gelatinous squares of bean-curd jelly, lies grilled-meat mecca Arirang Korean BBQ (741 for example, are “not as refreshing in the winter Civic Center Dr, 847-966-7072). Kim loves the as in the summer.” kalbi, or marinated short ribs. “Sometimes people For the closest thing to Korean street food, get irritated when they have to cook [their own Kim recommends checking out Chingoojib food at the table],” Kim says as he unrolls the (9098 N Golf Road, 847-759-8880). “It takes meat with tongs and grills over a gas flame built me back to my childhood,” he says. “I was only into the table. When you order a main dish— seven in Korea when I got to taste my first street meat, stew, fish or noodles—waitresses deliver food. It was spicy rice cake with veggies,” which banchan, a herd of colorful sides including napa- is $10.90 at Chingoojib. The dish is a stew of cabbage kimchi, radish kimchi, spinach tofu, fish chicken stock, Korean chili paste, mushrooms, cakes and seasoned cucumbers. pine nuts and vegetables with rice cakes (think Next, Kim investigates the new Assi Plaza Korean gnocchi). International Food Store (8901 N Milwaukee Ave, When he wants something on the sweet847-470-9450), and finds Mae Ploy (his favorite er side, Kim stops by the appropriately named brand of sweet chili sauce) and the most versatile Bakersville (8357 W Golf Road, 847-966-0404), brand of coconut milk (Chaokoh). Assi also sells a Korean bakery. He goes for the custard bread, refrigerators designed for kimchi, Kim points out. the rich-but-light pound cake, the butter-andA fridge just for kimchi? “Oh, yeah,” he says with sugar bread and the sweet bean-paste egg bread. a laugh, “kimchi will stink up your cooler.” There’s no smell in the air here other than sweet, It’s too early for karaoke when Kim stops by baked goodness, so even those who can’t get past Jang Chung Dong (9078 W Golf Rd, 847-768the odor of kimchi elsewhere are sure to find 5884), but he sings the praises of the restaurant’s something appealing. full page ad THE TAB Super H Mart Fresh kimchi, $6.49/32oz; Housemade tofu, $1.29 Toreore’s Chicken and Joy Fried chicken, $18.65/14 pieces Arirang Korean BBQ Kalbi, $16.99 Assi Plaza Internat’l Food Store Mae Ploy sweet chili sauce, $3.45; Chaokoh coconut milk, 75¢ Jang Chung Dong Blood sausage, $9.99 Chingoojib Spicy rice cakes with veggies, $10.90 Bakersville Custard bread, $1.25; Pound cake, $1.40; Butter-and-sugar bread, $1.35; Sweet bean-paste egg bread, $1.45 each ♪ –★– A Girl Called Eddy A Girl Called Eddy { Anti } It doesn’t really begin this way, but the Burt Bacharach influence flourishes on this self-titled debut from A Girl Called Eddy. And if you’re reading this and you don’t know who Burt Bacharach is, stop what you’re doing, walk over to your computer, and find out. Eddy {née Erin Moran}, with the production help of Pulp guitarist Richard Hawley, has managed to forge a simply beautiful album. Her voice is rich and low, capable of achieving wide range and expressing emotion on each of the 11 self-penned songs. Think Karen Carpenter, Dusty Springfield, Aimee Mann, Chrissie Hynde. The disc opens with the masterfully arranged “Tears All Over Town” about what other than a fallen relationship. Then Eddy’s dusky voice laments on the melancholy “Kathleen,” tied with lovely ribbons of strings to match the feeling, which lend themselves to the albums first taste of Bacharach-like horn, blue and moody. The pop overtures of “The Long Goodbye” feel somewhat out of place among the rest of the album’s tracks; though lyrically as smart as other cuts, the jingle-jangle tempo and background oohooh-oohs seem almost an attempt to brighten an album that doesn’t need brightening. “Somebody Hurt You” begins the fireside spiral, and from there on out, it’s all Burt-but-not-Burt from this selftaught pianist. Eddy is able to boast Nick Cave and Tom Waits as labelmates, and such company affords freedom to be dark and to stay that way for as long as you like. A Girl Called Eddy is a disc for sharing during intimate suppers with friends and for romantic rainy evenings spent inside. — Jackie Oh The Arcade Fire –★– The Arcade Fire Funeral { Merge } Montreal’s Arcade Fire recall the kitchen sink approach of the Elephant Six collective, tossing in strings, accordion, & march -ing band percussion amongst myriad of instrumentation. But while bands in the E6 often jammed ailesly, The Arcade Fire focus on concision, honing in on the arrangements instead of hovering around them. The four-part suite “Neighborhood” gives the record an underlying concept, but it’s a loose, rather inscrutable one. The songs comprising “Neighborhood” are all separate entities, covering some disparate ground, notably the Sister Lovers piano-driven melody of “Tunnels” and the electrified Roxy Music glam preening of “Power Out.” While “Neighborhood” frames the record, centerpiece “Crown of Love” elevates the album to another level, serving as the record’s crown jewel. Buttressed by a funereal violin & Regine Chassagne’s breathy backing vocals, the song has a woozy, vertiginous feel that recalls the orch-pop experimeation of Bright Eyes’ Lifted. Frontman Win Butler’s vocals reach an arresting emotional peak on the track, sounding not unlike Will Sheff of Okkervil River, a modern act that mines similar territory as The Arcade Fire. What’s so impressive about Funeral is how vital it sounds. It literally feels out of the bounds of time, majestically dislocated in much the same way as Neutral Milk Hotel’s In the Aeroplane Over The Sea. From the EPs A Girl Called Eddie -126- The Hong Kong Rock the Faces { Etherdrag } STARTING OFF BY COMING UP FROM THE New York Underground playing the party scene, the Hong Kong have recently come into the “It List” status by catching the eyes of many industry types as well as Rolling Stone scribe David Fricke. It wasn’t long before they hit the stage anachronistic piano plinks that open the record to the crashing My Bloody Valentine–esque wash of white noise that closes it, Funeral is an impressionistic, highly affecting record imbued with a level of soul rarely found in contemporary music. attracting a semblance of the appreciation they’re finally getting {and which they’ve probably deserved all along}. The final, and most important, reason is simple: Their new record — a re-release of their self-titled — John Everhart 2002 debut — is really, really good. Asobi Seksu takes some time to grow on you. It took three lisAsobi Seksu tens before the songs { Friendly Fire began to haunt my Recordings } head — now, call me There are three big addicted. The album is reasons to like — if a mishmash of sounds not love — NYC fourand influences. In “Stay” some Asobi Seksu. For and “It’s Too Late,” the one, their name means group evokes the hazy “play sex” in Japanese. dreampop of Lush and For another, they’ve Cocteau Twins. The joyworked their butts off, ful noise and quirky, replaying New York’s peated mantra in “Asobi dingiest dives for two Masho” bring to mind years in the hopes of old-school Cibo Matto. –★– Asobi Seksu of New York City’s most popular venues, opening up for the likes of Luna and the Ravonettes. The Hong Kong’s debut, Rock the Faces, is a collection of seven indie-pop, new wave songs that exude a Phil Spector wall-of-sound fuzz behind a hooky melody and angelic Debbie Harry–like vocals. In fact, a trashy stripped-down Blondie would be a good comparison. The sound is late-’70s raw yet pretty, dirty garage yet perfect pop, with vocalist Catherine Culpepper holding the songs together. While the record definitely starts out much stronger than it finishes off (“Mazerati” and “Rock the Faces” being the two gems of the release), it is obvious that this band has something good going that is sure to develop with future releases. — Maria Catamero ▄ “Walk on the Moon” has a heart-tugging feel, a lá Ida and Rainer Maria; the lyrics, too, paint a picture of emolite angst: “I’m swimming in grey / Let them all walk away / I’ll be left with the shame.” And at other times, the foursome fall headfirst into the agonized dissonance of My Bloody Valentine. Like Blonde Redhead’s Kazu Makino, Seksu’s singer-keyboardist Yuki has a gentle, swirly voice that jumps easily from Japanese to English. Her delivery is enchanting, transforming from sigh to whisper to pained groan without missing a beat. It’s obvious that she feels every word she sings. Overall, Asobi Seksu has created a lovely record, both driving and dreamy — call it elegant noise. — Laura Barcella –★– Carla Bruni Quelqu’un M’a Dit { V2 } Supermodel sighting! Oh, yes, time to gather round for the obligatory cynical model turned musician review. After modeling for the likes of Jean-Paul Gaultier and appearing on the cover of Vogue, French model Carla Bruni left her highly successful career on the runway in order to focus on her music. Normally, such pretty people make for disposable rock stars {think Keanu Reeves} but surprisingly enough, Bruni’s debut, Quelqu’un M’a Dit, isn’t half-bad. Nor did it do too badly, going gold in a handful of European countries such as Spain and Germany. So if you’re intrigued to hear some new French pop and harbor a secret love for Françoise Hardy {comparing the two isn’t far off mark}, this disc might do well with you too. Quelqu’un M’a Dit is chock full of the acoustic singer-songwriter sound. Stripped to just a girl with guitar, the record is a subtle and somber affair, alternating from pretty folk to whispery pop with jazz undertones. Although it’s been a decade since I last had the opportunity to use my French for more than viewing the latest Isabelle Huppert film, the fact that I could follow some of the tracks might suggest a lyrical simplicity of its own that is a match for the unadorned arrangements. Bruni’s no Rickie Lee Jones {an influence she cites}, but luckily for her, she’s no Milla Jovanovich either. — Kim Newman –★– Cemetery Love Club 4 a.m. { Self-released } At first glance at their name, one might mistake Cemetery Love Club for the latest in electro-new wave, but the duo’s first album, 4 a.m., proves otherwise. With just one guitar, Katie Kovacich’s petal-soft voice, a bass, and the occasional drum beat, Cemetery Love Club create some of the sweetest sleepy indie rock since Rebecca Gates. Joined by her sweetheart, Ryan Blackmore, Kovacich claims, “We’re super in love and happy…but the music doesn’t reflect that.” That may be, but the lyrics on “Volvo” seem to tell another story: “Yes it’s all my fault / I work seven days a week / I’m going out all night / It’s no wonder I feel under / But there’s so much to do / And I don’t want to waste a minute / Time is short and precious / I won’t lose, I won’t lose.” If hidden passion like this doesn’t tickle your fancy, perhaps the eerie “Winter Girl” will do it for you, where you can almost hear a chilling wind blow over Kovacich’s shoulder as she sings into the mic; take that and add a guitar that pricks like bony fingers creeping down your spine, & you would swear they were standing in the midst of a graveyard. Though a valiant effort was put forth by Kovacich and Blackmore, it is obvious that this is their first time recording. It will be interesting to see what becomes of “the world’s most in-love couple” {as California’s Arcata Eye puts it}, but for now you can look past the production quirks and savor every last eerie drop of 4 a.m. — Jim Keller –★– The Fiery Furnaces Blueberry Boat { Rough Trade } Halfway through this New York duo’s second record, you’ll wish you were watching the whole production performed live, at a cozy community theater with enough players to fill in for the pirates, polar bears, tigers, pill-poppers, kidnappers, and myriad nefarious characters who turn up throughout the album. Matthew & Eleanor Friedberger’s Blueberry Boat sounds less like a rock album and more like some bizarre musical put on by Random Top 10 Rachel Gowell’s favorite stuff in life Best known as a member of the shoegazer band Slowdive and its spin-off band, Mojave 3, Rachel Goswell adds a new credit to her resume: solo artist. In the summer, she released her meticulously crafted debut album, Waves Are Universal. — A.S. 1. UNCONDITIONAL LOVE OF MY SOULMATE. What a revelation to have a partner who makes me laugh and accepts me for who I really am. I went through my 20s in a haze of panic attacks and just general bad stuff. There was a point where I didn’t think I would make it to the age of 30. I’m 33 now and I must say, fucking relieved that my life has changed in so many positive ways. Unconditional love gives me the strength to get through anything life throws at me. 2. GIN & TONIC. Need I say more? 3. JONI MITCHELL is an incredible artist and a huge inspiration. Absolute respect from the heart. 4. MEDITATION & CHI KUNG is a necessity for me. Keeps me focused on what’s important in life. 5. THE MINI COOPER is my favourite car. I learnt to drive in this car. I failed my test at the age of 18 and never bothered to take it again. One day I will pass my test and I will buy myself a Mini Cooper. 6. CATS HAVE ALWAYS BEEN IN MY LIFE. I have a beautiful black cat called Choccy who is now 13 years old. When she’s pissed off, she huffs like a human. She’s hilarious. 7. MY FAMILY. We’ve been through ill health this year, resulting in three out of four of us being in hospital. Everyone has to deal with horrible stuff at some point in life, and this year has definitely been our turn on that score. But we have come through it all stronger and with such a close bond. 8. GARDENING. I got bitten by this bug a good five or six years ago. I love gardening. I love the complexity of nature and watching plants grow and flowers bloom. Trees. Wow. I could talk about this subject for hours and not get bored. I have already studied horticulture at college but know that at some point in my life I will take it much further, hopefully to degree level. 9. BEING BY THE SEA feels like I’m at the end of the earth and gives me a sense of peace I don’t get anywhere else. 10. LIFE & DEATH IN SHANGHAI by Nien Cheng. I read this book many years ago and it had a profound impact on me. This lady is a true inspiration, and I thoroughly recommend this book. supermodel turned siren, Carla Bruni ...stop starring... -127- WHAT EVERY DESIGNER line Pro Draw ing Boa rd – 5. 00 .O th er bo oks st a rt a t $9 9.00 $90 .00 SHOULD sp ira tio n DSLR Camera Canon Rebel Tli. 15.1 mpx From $849.00 - 899.00 In HAVE 12 :$ ed ur May t pic GRAPHIC Design Software Single programs for students start at $99.00. {JouneyEd. com} For professionals software packages are a litle more costly... there’s a comma in the price. de Gui Geo Pocket Sketchbook & Daily Planner $12.00 {Carry it as if it were cash... it just might become that.} – oks lor Bo Pantone Co Broadband Internet Access... A MUST. External Hard drive. backup backup backup backup backup backup backup backup backup I can’t stress it enough. Fashionable eyewear from $118.00 to $675.00 at coolframes.com Whether you’re a first year student or a designer who has been working for a decade, here are a few items you’ll want to add to your design arsenal... and some you might ask for as a gift. Colo rS color canner – M scan ner a ustek 11 s low x as $1 17 USB fl a 70.0 0 on tbed ebay . Digital Tablet for drawing or painting right into your computer. Wacom’s new Intuos 4 is available in two versions... right AND left handed! {‘bout time} Small tablet starts at $199.00 the large tablet {pictured} is priced at $400.00. Left-handed large Intuos 4 by Wacom. Prismacolor Markers Set of 24 as low as $47.24 (Dick Blick) Ergonomic Desk Chair Pick the one that is best for you (because you’re going to be using it a lot. A B Transformers’ Decepticon Ravage: Transforms from 2 GB Flash Drive [A] into Decepticon Panther Ravage [B]. You know it’s too cool... $42.00 101 STUDENT DESIGN.COM 25
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