Late Period Chemises Chemises, Smocks, and Camicias for

Late Period Chemises Chemises, Smocks, and Camicias for late period garments THL Medb ingen Echuid [email protected] Introduction: Chemises were an essential part of a late period wardrobe. Worn against the skin, they absorbed sweat and oils and helped to keep outer garments clean. Period wardrobe accounts tell us that chemises and smocks were often made of linen or linen/cotton blends. For both men and women, smock patterns were very similar. From a patterning and construction perspective, the main difference is going to be the dimensions of the pattern and whatever details you would like to add to emulate a specific style or region. Patterning: A basic late period chemise can be constructed entirely from rectangles. The following pattern diagrams will show you how to create a basic chemise or camicia, as well as a high neck Elizabethan smock, as seen below. I have left the numbers for my own dimensions for reference. I am 5'4” and about a US size 4/6, and if you are close to my size, you are welcome to use this as is to save yourself some work. I am also including instructions on how to get these measurements yourself. Body – 38x28 is my desired length and width. To attain your length, measure from neckline to where you would like your hem. You probably want it to go at least to your thigh, but there is no rule as to where exactly it must end. Mine goes just below my knees. For width, you just have to decide how wide you want your chemise. It should be at least a little wider than your bust, but you also need to make sure it is wide enough to accommodate leg movement, depending on how long you make it. Sleeves – 30x25 is my desired length and width. To attain your length, measure from shoulder/neckline to your wrist, and put some slack into your tape measure so you have enough fabric to gather. It's normally just a few inches more than your actual length. For width, it is as wide as you want it. Neck band – 38­40 is my width, varied for different styles. Just measure the width you want for your neckline. Cuffs – 10 is my width. Measure your wrist and add a couple inches. *Note: Cuffs are optional. Many Italian portraits clearly show camicias with loose sleeves. Gussets – 6 is a pretty good size. When patterning for multiple sizes, I have gone as high as 8, but I often use 6 inches for most sizes. Front and back – 42x18 is my length by width. To get your length, measure how long you want your smock. For width, make sure it is slightly larger than your bust. Side gores – 28x13 is my length by width. To get your length, measure from where you want the gore to start, and go to your bottom hem. For width, this is really up to how wide you want it to be, but you want to make sure you have room to move your legs underneath. Sleeves – as above Sleeve gussets – as above Neck gussets – These are inserted into the shoulder seams just inside the collar, as shown in the diagram. You can certainly make a high neck smock without them. I have done it both ways, and they both work just fine. It is certainly easier to leave them out. Cuffs – as above Ruffles – These are optional. I make mine 3x the width of the cuff I am attaching them to. You must make them at least twice the width in order to have them look right. If you want to do proper box pleats, you need a 3x measurement. Sewing Instructions: Basic chemise: 1. Sew one side of each gusset to the top of each sleeve. 2. Sew the adjacent side of each gusset to the other side of the sleeve. 3. Sew the sleeve side seams. Leave some open at the bottom if you would like tight fitting gathered sleeves. You should now have tubes with extra pointy bits on the sides of the tops. 4. If you have left the bottom of your sleeves open, hem the edges. 5. Sew each sleeve to the front of your chemise. Let a few inches of chemise body overlap with your sleeve, as in the diagram above. 6. Sew the other side of your sleeves to the chemise back, as you did the front. 7. Sew the chemise side seams. 8. Sew the neck band into a circle (unless you would like a band that ties in front, in which case, leave it open and hem the edges). If you have cuffs, repeat with cuffs. 9. Gather or pleat the neckline into the neck band. Repeat with cuffs. 10. Fold the neck bank over twice to the back and stitch down. This should look much like attaching bias binding. Repeat for cuffs. 11. Hem your chemise. If you have open sleeves, hem them too. Elizabethan high neck smock: 1. Sew your shoulder seams. If you have neck gussets, attach them first. 2. Attach the side gores to the sides of your smock. 3. Sew one side of each gusset to the top of each sleeve. 4. Sew the adjacent side of each gusset to the other side of the sleeve. 5. Sew the sleeve side seams. You should now have tubes with extra pointy bits on the sides of the tops. Leave a bit open at the bottom of each sleeve. 6. Hem the opening you just left at the bottom of each sleeve side seam. 7. Sew each sleeve to your smock. You will need to include some gathers or pleats. Be sure to center the sleeves on the shoulder seams. 8. Sew the side seams of your smock. 9. To create ruffles, fold the strips of fabric in half and sew them together. Turn right side out. Gather or pleat them into one side of each cuff. 10. Baste the ruffles onto the cuffs. 11. Sew the other side of each cuff, right sides together, to the side with the ruffle. Sew the sides as well as the top. Include ribbons in the side seams if desired. Turn right side out. 12. Sew one side of each cuff to your sleeves and neck, gathering sleeves and neck to fit the cuffs. 13. Fold under the wrong side of each cuff and stitch it down. 14. Hem your smock.