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Toronto
2004
by Hilary Davidson
Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s:
“Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.”
—Booklist
“Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.”
—Glamour Magazine
“Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.”
—Des Moines Sunday Register
“Comprehensive and includes information about the many festivals—from beer
to literature—that Toronto hosts each year.”
—The Washington Post
About the Author
Toronto native Hilary Davidson now calls New York City home, thanks to her persuasive Manhattan-born husband, Daniel. She is a contributing editor at Chatelaine
magazine and writes for Martha Stewart Weddings, Executive Traveler, Wedding Bells,
Glow, Discover, and Pages. She is also a contributor to Frommer’s Canada. She can
be reached at [email protected].
Published by:
Wiley Publishing, Inc.
111 River St.
Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
Copyright © 2004 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107
or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written
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317/572-4447, E-Mail: [email protected].
Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of
John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered
trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the
property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with
any product or vendor mentioned in this book.
ISBN 0-7645-4060-2
ISSN 1047-7853
Editor: Myka Carroll
Production Editor: Bethany André
Cartographer: John Decamillis
Photo Editor: Richard Fox
Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services
Front cover photo: A view of Toronto’s skyline and harbor
Back cover photo: Hockey Hall of Fame statue
For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support,
please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800/762-2974,
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Manufactured in the United States of America
5
4
3
2
1
Contents
1
List of Maps
vi
What’s New in Toronto
1
The Best of Toronto
3
1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto
Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
2 Best Hotel Bets . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
2
Planning Your Trip to Toronto
1 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . .12
2 Entry Requirements &
Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
3 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar
& the British Pound . . . . . . . . .15
What Things Cost in Toronto . . .17
4 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Toronto Calendar of Events . . . .18
Jump Up! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
5 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .23
6 Health . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
The SARS Story . . . . . . . . . . . .25
3
Getting to Know Toronto
1 Orientation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
Underground Toronto . . . . . . . .44
The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .44
4
Where to Stay
1 Downtown West . . . . . . . . . . .55
2 Downtown East . . . . . . . . . . . .65
Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .66
3 Midtown West . . . . . . . . . . . . .68
3 Best Dining Bets . . . . . . . . . . . .8
The Best of Toronto Online . . . . .9
12
7 Specialized Travel Resources . . .25
Wedded Bliss for Gay &
Lesbian Couples . . . . . . . . . . . .27
8 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . .28
9 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . .30
Frommers.com: The Complete
Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . .32
10 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
11 Packages for the Independent
Traveler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
12 Tips on Accommodations . . . . .38
13 Recommended Reading . . . . . .39
40
2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Fast Facts: Toronto . . . . . . . . . .50
54
4 Uptown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
5 The East End . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
6 At the Airport . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
iv
CONTENTS
5
Where to Dine
1 Restaurants by Cuisine . . . . . . .80
2 Downtown West . . . . . . . . . . .84
Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .93
3 Downtown East . . . . . . . . . . . .96
Savory Surfing . . . . . . . . . . . . .98
4 Midtown West . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Great Greasy Spoons . . . . . . .107
6
City Strolls
Walking Tour 1: Chinatown
& Kensington Market . . . . . . . .153
Walking Tour 2:
Harbourfront . . . . . . . . . . . . . .158
8
Shopping
1 The Shopping Scene . . . . . . . .171
2 Great Shopping Areas . . . . . . .171
3 Shopping A to Z . . . . . . . . . . .172
9
5 The East End . . . . . . . . . . . . .108
Sleepless in Toronto: What to Do
When the Midnight Munchies
Attack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .109
6 Uptown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
Vegetarian Delights . . . . . . . .114
7 North of the City . . . . . . . . . .115
What to See & Do
Suggested Itineraries . . . . . . .117
1 The Top Attractions . . . . . . . . .118
Great Toronto Vistas . . . . . . . .126
Where to Eat When You’re
Going to . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130
2 More Museums . . . . . . . . . . .131
Pssst . . . Want in
on a Secret? . . . . . . . . . . . . .132
3 Exploring the
Neighborhoods . . . . . . . . . . .133
4 Architectural Highlights . . . . . .135
7
75
Toronto After Dark
1 The Performing Arts . . . . . . . .196
2 The Club & Music Scene . . . . .206
3 The Bar Scene . . . . . . . . . . . .210
Cueing Up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210
Hotel Bars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .213
117
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
Historic Buildings . . . . . . . . . .138
For Sports Fans . . . . . . . . . . .140
Markets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Parks, Gardens &
Cemeteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . .141
Especially for Kids . . . . . . . . . .142
Organized Tours . . . . . . . . . . .144
Outdoor Activities . . . . . . . . . .146
Spas & the City . . . . . . . . . . .148
Spectator Sports . . . . . . . . . . .151
153
Walking Tour 3: The Financial
District . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .160
Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence
& Downtown East . . . . . . . . .166
171
The Best Bargains . . . . . . . . .180
Same Time Next Year . . . . . . .191
196
4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene . . . .214
5 Cinemas & Movie Houses . . . .215
6 Coffeehouses . . . . . . . . . . . . .215
Sweet Treats: Toronto’s
Dessert Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . .216
v
CONTENTS
10 Side Trips from Toronto
218
1 Stratford . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .218
2 Niagara-on-the-Lake &
Niagara Falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227
Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake
Wineries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .228
A Family Adventure . . . . . . . . .238
Niagara Parkway Commission
Restaurants . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240
3 The Muskoka Lakes . . . . . . . .240
Rest, Relax, Recharge . . . . . . .247
4 Hamilton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248
Appendix: Toronto in Depth
252
1 History 101 . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
Dateline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .252
2 Toronto Today . . . . . . . . . . . .260
Index
General Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
Accommodations Index . . . . . . . . .271
261
Restaurant Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .271
List of Maps
Metropolitan Toronto 4
Underground Toronto 42
The TTC Subway System 47
Where to Stay in Downtown
West 57
Where to Stay in Downtown
East 59
Where to Stay in Midtown &
Uptown 60
Where to Dine in Downtown 76
Where to Dine in Midtown West &
Uptown 78
Where to Dine from Chinatown to
Bloor Street 81
What to See & Do in
Downtown 120
What to See & Do in
Midtown 122
Walking Tour 1: Chinatown &
Kensington Market 155
Walking Tour 2: Harbourfront 160
Walking Tour 3: The Financial
District 163
Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence &
Downtown East 167
Midtown Shopping: Bloor/
Yorkville 173
Downtown Shopping: Queen Street
West & West Queen West 174
Downtown After Dark 198
After Dark from Chinatown to
Bloor Street 201
Side Trips from Toronto 219
Stratford 221
Niagara-on-the-Lake 229
Niagara Falls 239
The Muskoka Lakes Region 241
Hamilton 249
Acknowledgments
Many, many thanks to my editor, Myka Carroll, whose talent, wit, and good sense made
working on this book a pleasure. Thanks are also owed to the rest of the Frommer’s team,
who worked their usual magic in transforming a manuscript into a book. I am also grateful to my mother, Sheila Davidson, who is always ready to help and yet never makes me
feel guilty for taking advantage of her highly skilled—yet unpaid—labor. Finally, I owe a
heartfelt thanks to my husband, Dan, whose sense of humor and tireless enthusiasm carried me throughout this project.
An Invitation to the Reader
In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants,
shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share
the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed
with a recommendation, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to:
Frommer’s Toronto 2004
Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5744
An Additional Note
Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is
especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held
responsible for the experiences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us,
however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a
close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.
Other Great Guides for Your Trip:
Frommer’s Canada
Frommer’s Montréal & Quebec City
Frommer’s Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island
Frommer’s Ottawa with Kids
Frommer’s Toronto with Kids
Frommer’s Star Ratings, Icons & Abbreviations
Every hotel, restaurant, and attraction listing in this guide has been ranked for quality,
value, service, amenities, and special features using a star-rating system. In country, state,
and regional guides, we also rate towns and regions to help you narrow down your choices
and budget your time accordingly. Hotels and restaurants are rated on a scale of zero (recommended) to three stars (exceptional). Attractions, shopping, nightlife, towns, and
regions are rated according to the following scale: zero stars (recommended), one star
(highly recommended), two stars (very highly recommended), and three stars (must-see).
In addition to the star-rating system, we also use seven feature icons that point you
to the great deals, in-the-know advice, and unique experiences that separate travelers from
tourists. Throughout the book, look for:
Finds
Special finds—those places only insiders know about
Fun Fact
Fun facts—details that make travelers more informed and their trips
more fun
Kids
Best bets for kids and advice for the whole family
Moments
Special moments—those experiences that memories are made of
Overrated
Places or experiences not worth your time or money
Tips
Insider tips—great ways to save time and money
Value
Great values—where to get the best deals
The following abbreviations are used for credit cards:
AE American Express
DISC Discover
DC Diners Club
MC MasterCard
V Visa
Frommers.com
Now that you have the guidebook to a great trip, visit our website at www.frommers.com
for travel information on more than 3,000 destinations. With features updated regularly,
we give you instant access to the most current trip-planning information available. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the best prices on airfares, accommodations, and car
rentals—and you can even book travel online through our travel booking partners. At
Frommers.com, you’ll also find the following:
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Online updates to our most popular guidebooks
Vacation sweepstakes and contest giveaways
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What’s New in Toronto
T
oronto—or “Hollywood North,” as
some wags would have it—is brimming with energy these days. Here’s a
quick look at what’s happening now.
PLANNING YOUR TRIP While
there are some new discount airlines
flying into Toronto, such as WestJet
(www.westjet.ca) and JetsGo (www.
jetsgo.net), Air Canada (www.air
canada.ca) is still the major player. It’s
Canada’s only national airline, and it
operates direct daily flights from most
major U.S. cities and from many
smaller ones. Air Canada’s response to
the discount competition has been to
launch a new division called Tango
(www.flytango.com). It’s a cheaper,
no-frills service that operates from
Toronto’s Pearson International Airport, but it only flies to Canadian
cities.
Speaking of the airport, there are
major changes afoot: The grand new
terminal is almost complete, and
when it opens for business in late
2003, it will replace the gloomy Terminals 1 and 2. In the meantime, try
to ignore the messy rerouting of traffic
at the airport. See “Orientation” in
chapter 3 for complete details on
transportation from the airport to
downtown Toronto.
WHERE TO STAY Toronto’s fine
selection of hotels has just gotten better: Two gorgeous new boutique hotels
opened for business in 2003. The
SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, 318
Wellington St. W. (& 800/6686600), is a serene spot that blends
elegance and technology (not an easy
feat). The Hôtel Le Germain, 30
Mercer St. (& 866/345-9501), is the
chic and glamorous offering from the
Québec-based Groupe Germain. Both
offer top-notch service that will make
you want to come back again and
again. See chapter 4 for full reviews.
And good news for spa-lovers:
Some of the very best spas in the city
are located in hotels, such as the Victoria Spa at the Crowne Plaza, the
Stillwater Spa at the Park Hyatt, and
the Elizabeth Milan Hotel Day Spa
at the Fairmont Royal York. See “Spas
& the City” in chapter 6 for details.
WHERE TO DINE Foodies, take
note: 2003 was a banner year for
restaurant openings in Toronto. My
personal favorite is Brassaii, 461 King
St. W. (& 416/598-4730), a bistro
that blends excellent food with fine
service and a stunning setting—and
its prices are quite reasonable.
Other new notables include
Xacutti, 503 College St. (& 416/
323-3957), which is adding a dash of
Indian spice in Little Italy; Blowfish
Restaurant & Sake Bar, 668 King St.
W. (& 416/860-0606), for top-notch
sushi; Wish, 3 Charles St. E. (& 416/
935-0240), an inspiring little gem of
a bistro; the Colony Kitchen, 157
Bloor St. W. (& 416/591-9997), an
Asian-inspired restaurant located in—
you won’t believe it—the basement
of Club Monaco’s flagship store;
and Lolo, 619 Mount Pleasant Rd.
(& 416/483-8933) a down-to-earth
bistro with heavenly food. See chapter
5 for full reviews.
2
W H AT ’ S N E W
WHAT TO SEE & DO There’s
good and bad news. On the positive
side, some Toronto museums are
expanding so that they can show off
more of their fantastic collections. The
bad news is that much of the renovation work will be done in 2004. The
most notable is the Royal Ontario
Museum, which is staying open
throughout the year but with a limited
number of galleries. The George R.
Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art
will be closed for much of the year.
By the way, Toronto-bound parents
will find lots to keep small fry entertained if they consult a new website:
www.helpwevegotkids.com. See chapter 6 for more information.
SHOPPING The Canadian dollar
is still on the weak side, which is a
boon to U.S. and overseas shoppers.
Not that you should need further
inducement to stop in at the unique
local shops, including only-inToronto spots like Peach Berserk and
Fashion Crimes (for women’s fashions), Decibel (for men’s), Mink (for
jewelry and accessories), and Mabel’s
Fables (for children’s books and toys).
If you only have a short time to shop
while you’re in town, turn your sights
to West Queen West, an up-andcoming neighborhood where you’ll
find independent clothing boutiques,
housewares shops, and antiques boutiques. See chapter 8 for details.
AFTER DARK Toronto has recently
gained some new places to keep itself
(and you!) entertained. One is the
newly revived Carlu theater on the seventh floor of College Park. The longawaited Yonge-Dundas Square—a
new venue for open-air concerts right
in the heart of downtown—opened up.
Another attraction is The Distillery
Historic District, which is now home
to the Dancemakers and the Native
Earth performing arts groups. See
chapter 9 for complete details.
SIDE TRIPS One of the most
exciting destinations in Ontario is the
Muskoka region, which is just 90
minutes away from Toronto. It boasts
excellent resorts, fine food, outdoor
sports (golf and boating are the two
most popular), and soothing spas. See
chapter 10 for complete details.
1
The Best of Toronto
hances are that even if you’ve never set foot in Toronto, you’ve seen the city a
C
hundred times over. Known for the past decade as “Hollywood North,” Toronto
has stood in for international centers from European capitals to New York—but
rarely does it play itself. Self-deprecating Torontonians embody a paradox:
Proud of their city’s architectural, cultural, and culinary charms, they are unsure
whether it’s all up to international snuff.
After spending a single afternoon wandering around Toronto, you might
wonder why this is a question at all. The sprawling city boasts lush parks,
renowned architecture, and excellent galleries. There’s no shortage of skyscrapers, particularly in the downtown core. Still, many visitors marvel at the number of Torontonians who live in houses on tree-lined boulevards that are a walk
or a bike ride away from work.
Out-of-towners can see the fun side of the place, but Torontonians aren’t so
sure. They recall the stuffiness of the city’s past. Often called “Toronto the
Good,” it was a town where you could walk down any street in safety, but you
couldn’t get a drink on Sunday.
Then a funny thing happened on the way through the 1970s. Canada loosened its immigration policies and welcomed waves of Italians, Greeks, Chinese,
Vietnamese, Jamaicans, Indians, Somalians, and others, many of whom settled
in Toronto. Political unrest in Quebec drove out Anglophones, many into the
waiting arms of Toronto. The city’s economy flourished, which in turn gave its
cultural side a boost.
Natives and visitors alike enjoy the benefits of this rich cultural mosaic. More
than 5,000 restaurants are scattered across the city, serving everything from simple Greek souvlaki to Asian-accented fusion cuisine. Festivals such as Caribana
and Caravan draw tremendous crowds to celebrate heritage through music and
dance. Its newfound cosmopolitanism has made Toronto a key player on the arts
scene, too. The Toronto International Film Festival in September and the International Festival of Authors in October draw top stars of the movie and publishing worlds. The theater scene rivals London’s and New York’s.
Toronto now ranks at or near the top of any international urban quality-oflife study. The city has accomplished something rare, expanding and developing
its daring side while holding on to its traditional strengths. It’s a great place to
visit, but watch out: You might just end up wanting to live here.
1 Frommer’s Favorite Toronto Experiences
• Dining Alfresco on One of the
City’s Endless Patios: Any piece
of sidewalk might be appropriated
for open-air dining at any time. If
you can’t beat ’em, join ’em. See
chapter 5.
• Cafe Hopping at Trattorias in
Little Italy: Several magazines
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F TO R O N TO
4
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F R O M M E R ’ S FAV O R I T E TO R O N TO E X P E R I E N C E S
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Toronto Island
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TORONTO
ISLANDS
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TTC Subway
6
•
•
•
•
•
•
have zeroed in on this neighborhood as one of the haute-est spots
in North America. Trendy, yes,
but it’s also a fun area for stopping
by the many cafes and wine bars,
and for dining on outstanding
food. See chapter 5.
Staying Up Until the Wee Hours
in Greek Tavernas: No one’s saying that Toronto is a city that
never sleeps, but you can make
such a claim about lively-at-allhours Greektown. At 4am, upbeat
bouzouki music can still be heard
along the Danforth. See chapter 5.
Hanging Out at Harbourfront
Centre: There’s always something
going on—the International Festival of Authors, art exhibits, cultural celebrations, and the Toronto
Music Garden, just to name a few.
See p. 180
Picnicking on Centre Island:
Hop on the ferry and escape to the
islands. From across the water,
you’ll see the city in a whole new
light. See “The Toronto Islands”
on p. 44.
Swinging from the Henry
Moore Sculptures at the Art
Gallery of Ontario: The British
sculptor Henry Moore so loved
Toronto that he bestowed his
greatest works on this museum.
Kids have been known to swing
from the gigantic works in front
of the gallery. See p. 124.
Viewing the World from the Top
of the CN Tower: Most Toronto
natives say they’ve never gone to
the top of their most famous landmark. It’s a pity, because the view
is inspiring. On any reasonably
clear day, you can see Niagara
Falls. See p. 125.
Exploring the Wonders of the
World at the Ontario Science
Centre: You don’t have to be a tyke
to appreciate the amazing interactive displays about biology, ecology,
and technology. See p. 128.
• Taking in a Game at SkyDome or
the Air Canada Centre: SkyDome
is home base for the Toronto Blue
Jays baseball team. The Air Canada
Centre is where the Maple Leafs
(hockey) and the Raptors (basketball) play. Torontonians love their
teams and come out to support
them in droves. See p. 140.
• Wandering
Through
the
Riverdale Farm: In case you need
more proof that Toronto is a very
green city, it has a working farm in
its midst. Cows, sheep, pigs, goats,
and other critters call it home. See
p. 144.
• Treasure Hunting for Vintage
Clothing in Kensington Market:
How can one small area have a
dozen vintage-clothing vendors?
And how do they keep prices low
and quality good? Haphazard
Kensington Market is a joy for
bargain hunters. See “Walking
Tour: Chinatown & Kensington
Market” in chapter 7 and p. 192
in chapter 8.
• Shopping (or Window-Shopping)
in Chic Yorkville. Once home to
the city’s bohemian community,
Yorkville is an enclave of exclusive
shops, art galleries, and upscale
cafes. See “Great Shopping Areas”
in chapter 8.
• Checking Out Local Theater:
Toronto likes its blockbuster
shows: Show Boat and Ragtime got
their start here before heading to
Broadway. Offerings from the
CanStage Company, the Tarragon
Theatre, and the Lorraine Kimsa
Theatre for Young People are consistently excellent, too. See “The
Performing Arts” in chapter 9.
• Busting a Gut at a Comedy Club.
Maybe it’s something in the water:
Toronto has produced more than
its share of top-notch comedians,
including the shagadelic Mike
Myers, Jim Carrey, Dan Aykroyd,
and the late John Candy. Check
B E S T H OT E L B E T S
7
Impressions
In the eyes of the rest of the country Toronto is a kind of combination
Sodom and Mecca.
—Pierre Berton (1961)
out local talent or international
stand-up stars at one of the many
comedy clubs. See “The Club &
Music Scene” in chapter 9.
• Day-Tripping for Festivals and
Falls: Niagara-on-the-Lake is
Ontario’s wine country, and home
of the Shaw Festival; it’s less than a
half-hour drive away from Niagara
Falls. Picturesque Stratford has
its own theater festival. See “Stratford” and “Niagara-on-the-Lake &
Niagara Falls” in chapter 10.
2 Best Hotel Bets
• Best Historic Hotel: The
(gloved) hands-down winner is Le
Royal Meridien King Edward,
37 King St. E. (& 800/5434300), which was built in 1903
and in the past few years has been
restored to its former glory. The
lobby, with its pink marble
columns and ornate frescoes, has
seen the crème de la crème of society trot through over the years. In
the 1960s, the Beatles holed up in
the King Eddy while 3,000 fans
stormed the lobby. See p. 66.
• Best for a Stylish Stay: The
Hôtel Le Germain, 30 Mercer
St. (& 866/345-9501), one of
Toronto’s new boutique hotels, is
a stunner, with its dramatic design
and lots of artwork in public and
private spaces alike (even the elevators!). See p. 55.
• Best for Tech-Lovers: The SoHo
Metropolitan Hotel, 318 Wellington St. W. (& 800/668-6600),
makes the best use of technology
I’ve ever seen at a hotel. It’s as if the
designers compiled a list of all of
the most frustrating aspects about
staying in a hotel room and
resolved to fix them. And they succeeded! See p. 56.
• Best for a Romantic Rendezvous:
The Park Hyatt Toronto, 4
Avenue Rd. (& 800/233-1234),
has it all: a beautifully renovated
Art Deco building, top-notch service, and one of the best views in the
city from the rooftop terrace
lounge. This is the place to relax
and let yourself be pampered. See
p. 69.
• Best for Families: The Delta
Chelsea, 33 Gerrard St. W.
(& 800/243-5732), is a longtime
family favorite, and in 2003 it further enhanced its standing by
introducing the Family Fun Zone,
which includes a playroom with
live bunnies and fish, a video
arcade, and a waterslide. It also
offers children’s programs, a daycare center, and kid-friendly
restaurants. There are two pools,
one for tykes and one for adults,
and many rooms have refrigerators or kitchenettes. See p. 64.
• Best for Business Travelers: The
Metropolitan Hotel, 108 Chestnut St. (& 416/977-5000), is just
a few minutes from the Financial
District, and its amenities are
competitive with those of its
pricier competitors. Features
include a 24-hour business center
and in-room amenities such as
fax/modem hookups, large work
desks, and cordless two-line
phones. The restaurants, Hemispheres and Lai Wah Heen, are
8
favorite sites for business lunches.
See p. 58.
• Best Moderately Priced Hotel:
Given the location and amenities,
it’s hard to beat the Delta Chelsea,
33 Gerrard St. W. (& 800/2435732), for price. Close to the
Eaton Centre, Chinatown, and the
Financial District, double rooms
start at C$129 (US$90) per night.
See p. 64.
• Best Budget Accommodations:
Victoria University, 140 Charles
St. W. (& 416/585-4524), rents
out its student residences from
mid-May to late August. It’s in an
excellent location, with simple
rooms and great facilities, including tennis courts and a pool. All
this for C$66 (US$46) a night.
See p. 71.
• Best Service: At The Sutton Place
Hotel, 955 Bay St. (& 800/2683790), ask and you shall receive.
The high staff-to-guest ratio means
that there’s always someone around
to do your bidding. See p. 70. You
also won’t lack attention at the
Four Seasons Hotel Toronto,
21 Avenue Rd. (& 800/268-6282;
p. 68), or the Park Hyatt Toronto,
4 Avenue Rd. (& 800/233-1234;
p. 69).
• Best Hotel Dining: This is a threeway tie: The Hilton Toronto’s very
grand dining room, Tundra
(& 416/860-6800; p. 86), is a
treat for all the senses. But so are
the Fairmont Royal York’s new
offering, Epic (& 416/860-6949;
p. 88), and the Park Hyatt’s restaurant, Annona (& 416/924-5471;
p. 101).
• Best Gay-Friendly Hotel: Everyone comes to the Howard Johnson
Selby Hotel & Suites, 592 Sherbourne St. (& 800/387-4788). In
a Victorian building in a predominantly gay neighborhood, this hotel
draws gay, lesbian, and straight
travelers with Belle Epoque style
and individually decorated rooms.
See p. 70.
• Best for Travelers with Disabilities: The Fairmont Royal York,
100 Front St. W. (& 800/4411414), looks monolithic but it
pays a lot of attention to accessibility. The adaptations accommodate wheelchair users, the visually
impaired, and the hearing
impaired. See p. 58.
3 Best Dining Bets
• Best New Restaurant: 2003 saw
some stiff competition for the title,
with lots of new restaurants opening for business, but the winner is
Brassaii, 461 King St. W. (& 416/
598-4730), a stylish bistro with
excellent food, top-notch service,
and wallet-friendly prices. See
p. 90.
• Best for a Business Lunch: A
sure bet is Canoe Restaurant &
Bar, in the Toronto Dominion
Tower, 66 Wellington St. W.
(& 416/364-0054), a see-and-beseen spot for local and visiting
power brokers. See p. 85.
• Best for a Celebration: The atmosphere at Blowfish Restaurant &
Sake Bar, 668 King St. W. (& 416/
860-0606), is lively every night.
The mix of the glamorous dining
room, fine sushi, and a cool crowd
gives the restaurant its edge. See
p. 87.
• Best for a Romantic Dinner: I’m
the first to admit that I’m biased,
but the Rosewater Supper Club,
19 Toronto St. (& 416/214-5888),
is my idea of perfect romance (this
restaurant was where my husband
proposed to me). Relax and let the
pampering begin. See p. 97.
• Best Decor: Monsoon, 100 Simcoe St. (& 416/979-7172), has an
award-winning interior design by
Toronto firm Yabu Pushelberg.
BEST DINING BETS
The brown-on-black setting steals
attention from the impressive
kitchen. See p. 86. Upstart Rain,
19 Mercer St. (& 416/599-7246),
is easy on the eye, but good luck
getting in—even pop diva Nelly
Furtado couldn’t do it. See p. 89.
• Best View: Forget the obvious
choice (360 Revolving Restaurant, in the CN Tower, 301 Front
St. W.; p. 86). Instead, dine at
Scaramouche, 1 Benvenuto Place
(& 416/961-8011), which has a
far more elegant perspective. Its
floor-to-ceiling windows overlook
the downtown skyline. See p. 111.
• Best Wine List: The international
selection Centro, 2472 Yonge St.
(& 416/483-2211), is hard to
beat. The basement is a wine
bar with Italian, Californian, and
9
Australian vintages by the glass;
upstairs, the dining room boasts
more than 600 bottles from
around the world. Prices range
from C$32 (US$22) into four figures. See p. 110.
• Best Bistro: Bistros often do well
with comfort foods, but Biff ’s,
4 Front St. E. (& 416/860-0086),
serves up modern takes on classic
dishes; its setting goes beyond
comfortable to luxury. See p. 96.
• Best Italian: Il Posto Nuovo, 148
Yorkville Ave. (& 416/968-0469),
serves fine modern Italian cuisine
in elegant digs—and the efficient,
knowledgeable wait staff makes
everyone feel at home. See p. 101.
• Best Portuguese: Standing alone
on Italian-dominated College
Street, Chiado, 484 College St.
The Best of Toronto Online
How did anyone ever plan a trip without the help of the Internet? It’s
hard to imagine now, given the wealth of information available
online. But not all sites are created equal, so before you get ensnared
in the Web, point and click on these gems.
• Toronto.com (www.toronto.com) boasts articles on arts and culture
as well as a hotel directory, restaurant reviews, community news,
and events listings. One of its best features is its extensive use of
photographs.
• City of Toronto (www.city.toronto.on.ca) is the official municipal
guide to Toronto, a straightforward source of practical information
peppered with profiles of fun places to visit and announcements of
festivals, free concerts, kids’ events, and more.
• Girl Talk Toronto: A Mini City Guide (www.journeywoman.com/
girltalk/toronto.html) runs the gamut from the serious (transit safety)
to the frivolously fun (the best places to shop for shoes). This userfriendly site also highlights arty spots, off-the-beaten-path attractions, and the best places for brunch, all from a female perspective.
• Green Tourism Association (www.greentourism.on.ca) is an excellent
resource for eco-friendly travelers. There’s information about car-free
transportation, outdoor activities and sports, and healthy dining.
• Toronto Life (www.torontolife.com) has extensive restaurant listings, as well as links for events, activities, and nightlife.
• Toronto Star (www.thestar.com) includes everything from theater
and concert reviews to local news and weather conditions.
10
•
•
•
•
•
•
(& 416/538-1910), serves modern
Portuguese cuisine. The seafood is
flown in daily. See p. 88.
Best Greek: The cooking at Pan
on the Danforth, 516 Danforth
Ave. (& 416/466-8158), will
convince you that Pan was really
the god of food. This is Greek
cuisine updated with panache; see
p. 108. Watch out for the midtown restaurant Gus (1033 Bay
St.; & 416/923-8159) as a challenger; see p. 103.
Best Out-of-Towner: Talk about
catching on like wildfire—the
new restaurant Wildfire, at Taboo
Resort up in the Muskoka region
(& 705/687-2233), is a work of
art. Give yourself over to the
genius chef by having one of the
four-, five-, or 11-course tasting
menus. See p. 246.
Best People-Watching: Across
from the Sutton Place Hotel is
Bistro 990, 990 Bay St. (& 416/
921-9990), where everyone in
Toronto but me has made a
celebrity sighting. (I’m too busy
enjoying the delicious food.) See
p. 100.
Best Value: Once again, first prize
to Brassaii, 461 King St. W.
(& 416/598-4730), a stylish new
bistro that’s got it all. An honorable mention goes to Messis, 97
Harbord St. (& 416/920-2186),
which has been a training ground
for some of the best chefs in
Toronto. See p. 90 and 104.
Best for Kids: Millie’s Bistro,
1980 Avenue Rd. (& 416/4811247), is a family favorite with
sunny dining rooms and a special
children’s menu; see p. 112. A
more casual choice would be the
deli-style Shopsy’s (33 Yonge St.;
& 416/365-3333); see p. 100.
Best Steak House: Barberian’s,
7 Elm St. (& 416/597-0335), has
boosted the level of protein in
Torontonians’ diets since 1959.
•
•
•
•
•
•
It also serves great martinis and
desserts, but what everyone comes
here for is the meat. See p. 84.
Best Pizza: A cubbyhole-size
eatery in midtown, Serra, 378
Bloor St. W. (& 416/922-6999),
makes thin-crust pizzas laden with
gourmet ingredients. See p. 107.
Best Sushi: Hiro Sushi, 171 King
St. E. (& 416/304-0550). Chef
Hiro Yoshida offers up classically
prepared sushi as well as a few
unique specialties; see p. 97. But
there is competition from Blowfish Restaurant & Sake Bar, 668
King St. W. (& 416/860-0606);
see p. 87.
Best Afternoon Tea: A very tough
call. Afternoon tea in the lobby
lounge at the Le Royal Meridien
King Edward Hotel, 37 King St.
E. (& 416/863-3131), has been
called the most authentic English
tea, and it is divine; see p. 66. But
I am partial to the phenomenal
lavender-and-rose-infused Rooibos Provence tea that you’ll find at
Annona at the Park Hyatt,
4 Avenue Rd. (& 416/924-5471).
See p. 101.
Best Alfresco Dining: The lovely
patio at Biff ’s, 4 Front St. E.
(& 416/860-0086), is just about
perfect. Set well back from the
street, it affords terrific peoplewatching possibilities. See p. 96.
Best If You Have Only One
Meal in Toronto and Price Is No
Object: While I hate to go along
with the crowd, the common wisdom is on the money with North
44, 2537 Yonge St. (& 416/4874897). Great food, great staff,
great setting. See p. 111.
Best If You Have Only One Meal
in Toronto and Price Is an
Object: Look no further than
Brassaii, 461 King St. W. (& 416/
598-4730). For all of the reasons
listed above in “Best New Restaurant.” See p. 90.
BEST DINING BETS
• Best Chinese: Lai Wah Heen, at
the Metropolitan Hotel, 110
Chestnut St. (& 416/977-9899),
serves deluxe Cantonese and
Szechwan specialties, including a
variety of shark’s fin soups and
abalone dishes. It features several
good-value prix-fixe specials at
lunch and dinner. See p. 89.
• Best Brunch: Who needs bacon
and eggs when you can have torta
rustica with layers of ricotta, mozzarella, leeks, peas, and smoked
11
trout? This and other glamorous
offerings are available at Agora, at
the Art Gallery of Ontario, 317
Dundas St. W. (& 416/977-0414).
See p. 87.
• Best Desserts: Dufflet Rosenberg
bakes up a storm at Dufflet Pastries, 787 Queen St. W. (& 416/
504-2870). You’ll find her name
on the dessert list at some of the
city’s top restaurants. See “Sweet
Treats: Toronto’s Dessert Cafes”
on p. 216.
2
Planning Your Trip to Toronto
hether you’re traveling on a whim or charting your course months in
W
advance, it’s important to do some planning to make the most of your trip. You
may already be asking how you’ll get there and how much it will cost. There are
many different sides of Toronto, so you’ll need to figure out what kind of trip
you want. This chapter will help you find the answers.
1 Visitor Information
FROM NORTH AMERICA
The best source for Toronto-specific
information is Tourism Toronto,
Metro Toronto Convention & Visitors Association, 207 Queens Quay
W., Suite 590, Toronto, ON M5J 1A7
(& 800/363-1990 from North America, or 416/203-2600; www.toronto
tourism.com). Call before you leave
and ask for the free information package, which includes sections on accommodations, sights, and dining. Better
yet, visit the website, which includes all
of the above plus up-to-the-minute
events information.
For information about traveling in
the province of Ontario, contact
Tourism Ontario, P.O. Box 104,
Toronto, ON M5B 2H1 (& 800/
ONTARIO or 416/314-0944; www.
travelinx.com), or visit the travel center in the Eaton Centre on Level 1 at
Yonge and Dundas streets. It’s open
Monday through Friday from 10am to
9pm, Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm,
and Sunday from noon to 5pm.
Canadian consulates in the United
States do not provide tourist information. They will refer you to the offices
above. Consular offices in Buffalo,
Detroit, Los Angeles, New York, Seattle, and Washington, D.C., deal with
visas and other political and immigration issues.
FROM ABROAD
The following consulates can provide
information or refer you to the appropriate offices. Consult Tourism
Toronto (see “From North America,”
above) for general information. For a
list of Canadian consular offices around
the world, visit www.dfait-maeci.
gc.ca/world/embassies/cra-en.asp.
U.K. and Ireland: The Canadian
High Commission, MacDonald
House, 1 Grosvenor Sq., London
W1X 0AB (& 0207/258-6600; fax
0207/258-6333).
Australia: The Canadian High
Commission, Commonwealth Avenue,
Canberra, ACT 2600 (& 02/62733844), or the Consulate General of
Canada, Level 5, Quay West, 111
Harrington St., Sydney, NSW 2000
(& 02/9364-3000). The consulate
general also has offices in Melbourne
and Perth.
New Zealand: The Canadian
High Commission, 3rd floor, 61
Molesworth St., Thomdon, Wellington (& 04/473-9577).
South Africa: The Canadian High
Commission, 1103 Arcadia St., Hatfield 0083, Pretoria (& 012/4223000). The commission also has offices
in Cape Town and Johannesburg.
E N T RY R E Q U I R E M E N T S & C U S TO M S
13
2 Entry Requirements & Customs
FOR AUSTRALIAN RESIDENTS
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS
Only a passport is required for entry
into Canada—no visas or proof of
vaccinations are necessary. Canadian
airports have been screening travelers
for SARS, but this is done via a noninvasive thermal scan.
Safeguard your passport in an
inconspicuous, inaccessible place like
a money belt and keep a copy of the
critical pages with your passport number in a separate place. If you lose your
passport, visit the nearest consulate of
your native country as soon as possible
for a replacement.
FOR U.S. RESIDENTS Whether
you’re applying in person or by mail,
you can download passport applications from the U.S. State Department
website at http://travel.state.gov. For
general information, call the National
Passport Agency (& 202/647-0518).
To find your regional passport office,
either check the U.S. State Department
website or call the National Passport
Information Center (& 900/2255674); the fee is 55¢ per minute for
automated information and $1.50 per
minute for operator-assisted calls.
FOR U.K. RESIDENTS To pick
up an application for a standard
10-year passport (5-year passport for
children under 16), visit your nearest
passport office, major post office, or
travel agency or contact the United
Kingdom Passport Service at
& 0870/521-0410 or search its website at www.ukpa.gov.uk.
FOR RESIDENTS OF IRELAND
You can apply for a 10-year passport at the Passport Office, Setanta
Centre, Molesworth Street, Dublin 2
(& 01/671-1633; www.irlgov.ie/
iveagh). Those under age 18 and over
65 must apply for a €12 3-year passport. You can also apply at 1A South
Mall, Cork (& 021/272-525) or at
most main post offices.
You can pick up an application from
your local post office or any branch of
Passports Australia, but you must
schedule an interview at the passport
office to present your application
materials. Call the Australian Passport Information Service at & 131232, or visit the government website
at www.passports.gov.au.
FOR NEW ZEALAND RESIDENTS You can pick up a passport
application at any New Zealand Passports Office or download it from their
website. Contact the Passports Office
at & 0800/225-050 in New Zealand
or 04/474-8100, or log on to www.
passports.govt.nz.
CUSTOMS
W H AT YO U C A N B R I N G
INTO CANADA
Most customs regulations are generous,
but they get complicated when it comes
to firearms, plants, meat, and pets. Fishing tackle poses no problem (provided
the lures are not made of restricted
materials—specific feathers, for example), but the bearer must possess a nonresident license for the province or
territory where he or she plans to use it.
You can bring in free of duty up to 50
cigars, 200 cigarettes, and 200 grams of
tobacco, provided you’re at least 18
years of age. You are also allowed 40
ounces (1.14ml) of liquor or 1.5L of
wine as long as you’re of age in the
province you’re visiting (19 in Ontario).
There are no restrictions on what you
can take out. But if you’re thinking of
bringing Cuban cigars back to the
United States, beware—they can be
confiscated, and you could face a fine.
For a clear summary of Canadian
rules, write for the booklet I Declare,
issued by the Canada Customs and
Revenue Agency (& 800/461-9999
in Canada, or 204/983-3500; www.
ccra-adrc.gc.ca).
14
C H A P T E R 2 . P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P TO TO R O N TO
W H AT YO U C A N
TA K E H O M E
Returning U.S. citizens who have
been away for at least 48 hours are
allowed to bring back, once every 30
days, $800 worth of merchandise
duty-free. You’ll be charged a flat rate
of 4% duty on the next $1,000 worth
of purchases. Be sure to have your
receipts handy. On mailed gifts, the
duty-free limit is $200. With some
exceptions, you cannot bring fresh
fruits and vegetables into the United
States. For specifics on what you can
bring back, download the invaluable
free pamphlet Know Before You Go
online at www.customs.gov. (Click
on “Travel,” and then click on “Know
Before You Go.”) Or contact the U.S.
Customs Service, 1300 Pennsylvania
Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20229
(& 877/287-8867) and request the
pamphlet.
U.K. citizens returning from a nonEU country have a customs allowance
of: 200 cigarettes; 50 cigars; 250 grams
of smoking tobacco; 2 liters of still
table wine; 1 liter of spirits or strong
liqueurs (over 22% volume); 2 liters of
fortified wine, sparkling wine or other
liqueurs; 60cc (ml) perfume; 250cc
(ml) of toilet water; and £145 worth of
all other goods, including gifts and
souvenirs. People under 17 cannot
have the tobacco or alcohol allowance.
For more information, contact HM
Customs & Excise at & 0845/0109000 (from outside the U.K., 020/
3 Money
CURRENCY
Canadians use dollars and cents, but
with a distinct advantage for U.S. visitors—the Canadian dollar has been
fluctuating between 65 and 70¢ in
U.S. money, give or take a couple of
points’ daily variation. In effect, your
American money gets you 30% more
the moment you exchange it for local
currency, and because the nominal
8929-0152), or consult their website at
www.hmce.gov.uk.
The duty-free allowance for Australian citizens is A$400 or, for those
under 18, A$200. You can bring in
250 cigarettes or 250 grams of loose
tobacco, and 1,125 milliliters of alcohol. If you’re returning with valuables
you already own, such as foreign-made
cameras, you should file form B263. A
helpful brochure available from Australian consulates or Customs offices is
Know Before You Go. For more information, call the Australian Customs
Service at & 1300/363-263, or log
on to www.customs.gov.au.
The duty-free allowance for New
Zealand is NZ$700. Citizens over 17
can bring in 200 cigarettes, 50 cigars,
or 250 grams of tobacco (or a mixture
of all 3 if their combined weight doesn’t
exceed 250g); plus 4.5 liters of wine
and beer, or 1.125 liters of liquor. New
Zealand currency does not carry
import or export restrictions. Fill out a
certificate of export, listing the valuables you are taking out of the country;
that way, you can bring them back
without paying duty. Most questions
are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and
Customs offices: New Zealand Customs
Guide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For
more information, contact New
Zealand Customs, The Customhouse,
17–21 Whitmore St., Box 2218,
Wellington (& 04/473-6099 or 0800/
428-786; www.customs.govt.nz).
prices of many goods are roughly on
par with those in the United States,
the difference is real, not imaginary.
Sales taxes are higher, though you
should be able to recoup at least part
of them (see “Taxes” under “Fast
Facts: Toronto,” in chapter 3).
Paper currency comes in $5, $10,
$20, $50, and $100 denominations.
(The $1,000 bill is being phased out.)
MONEY
Coins come in 1-, 5-, 10-, and 25cent, and 1- and 2-dollar denominations. The gold-colored $1 coin is a
“loonie”—it sports a loon on its “tails”
side—and the large gold-and-silvercolored $2 coin is a “toonie.” If you
find these names somewhat, ah, colorful, just remember that there’s no
swifter way to reveal that you’re a
tourist than to say “one-dollar coin.”
It’s a good idea to exchange at least
some money—just enough to cover
airport incidentals and transportation
to your hotel—before you leave home,
so you can avoid the less-favorable
rates you’ll get at airport currency
exchange desks. Check with your local
American Express or Thomas Cook
office or your bank. American Express
cardholders can order foreign currency
over the phone at & 800/807-6233.
It’s best to exchange currency or
traveler’s checks at a bank, not a currency exchange, hotel, or shop.
ATMS
The easiest and best way to get cash
away from home is from an ATM
(automated teller machine). The
Cirrus (& 800/424-7787; www.
mastercard.com) and PLUS (& 800/
843-7587; www.visa.com) networks
span the globe; look at the back of
15
your bank card to see which network
you’re on, then call or check online for
ATM locations at your destination. Be
sure you know your personal identification number (PIN) before you leave
home and be sure to find out your
daily withdrawal limit before you
depart. Also keep in mind that many
banks impose a fee every time a card is
used at a different bank’s ATM, and
that fee can be higher for international
transactions (up to $5 or more) than
for domestic ones. On top of this, the
bank from which you withdraw cash
may charge its own fee.
TRAVELER’S CHECKS
Traveler’s checks are something of an
anachronism from the days before the
ATM made cash accessible at any
time. However, keep in mind that you
will likely be charged an ATM withdrawal fee if the bank is not your own,
so if you’re withdrawing money every
day, you might be better off with traveler’s checks—provided that you don’t
mind showing identification every
time you want to cash one.
You can get traveler’s checks at
almost any bank. American Express
offers denominations of $20, $50,
$100, $500, and (for cardholders
only) $1,000. You’ll pay a service
The Canadian Dollar, the U.S. Dollar & the British Pound
The prices quoted in this guide are in Canadian dollars, with the U.S. equivalent in parentheses. The exchange rate we’ve used is $1.40 Canadian to $1
American. The conversion rate for the British pound is $2.20 Canadian.
Here’s a quick table of equivalents:
C$
U.S. $
British £
1.00
.70
.45
5.00
3.50
2.25
10.00
7.00
4.50
20.00
14.00
9.00
50.00
35.00
22.50
80.00
56.00
36.00
100.00
70.00
45.00
16
Tips Spending American Cash
If you spend American money at Canadian establishments, you should
understand how the conversion is calculated. Many times, especially in
downtown Toronto, you’ll see a sign at the cash register that reads U.S.
CURRENCY 50%. This 50% is the “premium,” which means that for every
U.S. greenback you hand over, the cashier will consider it $1.50 Canadian.
For example, for a $15 tab you need pay only $10 in U.S. currency.
charge ranging from 1% to 4%. You
can also get American Express traveler’s checks over the phone by calling
& 800/221-7282; Amex gold and
platinum cardholders who use this
number are exempt from the 1% fee.
Visa offers traveler’s checks at
Citibank locations nationwide, as well
as at several other banks. The service
charge ranges between 1.5% and 2%;
checks come in denominations of $20,
$50, $100, $500, and $1,000. Call
& 800/732-1322 for information.
AAA members can obtain Visa checks
without a fee at most AAA offices or by
calling & 866/339-3378. MasterCard
also offers traveler’s checks. Call & 800/
223-9920 for a location near you.
Foreign currency traveler’s checks
are useful because they’re accepted at
locations such as bed-and-breakfasts
where dollar checks may not be, and
they minimize the amount of math you
have to do at your destination. American Express, Visa, and MasterCard all
offer checks in Canadian dollars.
If you choose to carry traveler’s
checks, be sure to keep a record of
their serial numbers separate from
your checks in the event that they are
stolen or lost. You’ll get a refund faster
if you know the numbers.
CREDIT CARDS
Credit cards are a safe way to carry
money, they provide a convenient
record of all your expenses, and they
generally offer good exchange rates.
You can also withdraw cash advances
(often with an astronomical interest
rate) from your credit cards at banks or
ATMs, provided you know your PIN.
If you’ve forgotten yours, or didn’t
even know you had one, call the number on the back of your credit card
and ask the bank to mail it to you—it
usually takes 5 to 7 business days. Your
credit-card company will likely charge
a commission (1% or 2%) on every
foreign purchase you make, but don’t
sweat this small stuff; for most purchases, you’ll still get the best deal with
credit cards when you factor in things
like ATM fees and higher traveler’s
check exchange rates.
Some credit card companies recommend that you notify them of any
impending trip abroad so that they
don’t become suspicious when the
card is used numerous times in a foreign destination and your charges are
blocked. Even if you don’t call your
credit-card company in advance, you
can always the card’s toll-free emergency number if a charge is refused—
a good reason to carry the phone
number with you. But perhaps the
most important lesson here is to carry
more than one card with you on your
trip; a card might not work for any
number of reasons, so having a backup
is the smart way to go.
WHAT TO DO IF YOUR WALLET
IS LOST OR STOLEN
Be sure to block charges against your
account the minute you discover a
credit card has been lost or stolen;
almost every credit-card company has
an emergency toll-free number to call.
They may be able to wire you a cash
MONEY
advance off your credit card immediately, and in many places, they can
deliver an emergency credit card in a
day or two. The issuing bank’s toll-free
number is usually on the back of your
credit card—though of course, if your
card is gone, that won’t help you unless
you recorded the number elsewhere.
Citicorp Visa’s U.S. emergency
number is & 800/336-8472. American Express cardholders and traveler’s
check holders should call & 800/2217282. MasterCard holders should call
& 800/307-7309. Otherwise, call the
toll-free number directory at & 800/
555-1212.
After you’ve contacted your creditcard company, be sure to file a police
report. Odds are that if your wallet is
gone, the police won’t be able to
recover it for you. However, it’s still
17
worth informing the authorities. Your
credit-card company or insurer may
require a police report number or
record of the theft.
If you need emergency cash over the
weekend when all banks and American
Express offices are closed, you can have
money wired to you via Western
Union (& 800/325-6000; www.
westernunion.com).
Identity theft or fraud are potential
complications of losing your wallet,
especially if you’ve lost your driver’s
license along with your cash and credit
cards. Notify the major credit-reporting
bureaus immediately; placing a fraud
alert on your records may protect you
against liability for criminal activity.
The three major U.S. credit-reporting
agencies are Equifax (& 800/7660008; www.equifax.com), Experian
What Things Cost in Toronto
Taxi from the airport to downtown
Subway/bus from the airport to downtown
Local telephone call
Double at the Park Hyatt (very expensive)
Double at the Delta Chelsea (moderate)
Double at Victoria University (inexpensive)
Two-course lunch for one at Stork
on the Roof (moderate)*
Two-course lunch for one at Kalendar (inexpensive)*
Three-course dinner for one at
North 44 (very expensive)*
Three-course dinner for one at Goldfish (moderate)*
Three-course dinner for one at
the Rivoli (inexpensive)*
Pint of beer
Coca-Cola
Cup of coffee
Roll of ASA 1100 Kodacolor film, 36 exposures
Admission to the Royal Ontario Museum
Movie ticket at a Silver City multiplex
Ticket for the Royal Alexandra Theatre
* Includes tax and tip, but not wine.
US$
24.50
6.80
.17
158.00–349.00
90.00–238.00
46.00
15.00
10.60
50.40
28.30
16.30
3.50
1.00
1.00
5.40
6.80
7.50
17.00–85.00
18
(& 888/397-3742; www.experian.
com), and TransUnion (& 800/6807289; www.transunion.com). For more
information about identity theft and
how to protect yourself, check the Federal Trade Commission’s website at
www.ftc.gov or www.consumer.gov/
idtheft.
4 When to Go
THE CLIMATE
Paris may be most delightful in springtime, but Toronto is truly sublime in
the fall. It’s my favorite time of year for
a number of reasons: The climate is
brisk but temperate, the skies are
sunny, the countless city parks are a riot
of color, and the cultural scene is in full
swing. Another great time to see the
city—if you don’t mind some snow—is
December, with nonstop holiday festivities. I can also make good arguments
for visiting in spring or summer, but I
do feel it’s my duty to warn you away in
January: The temperature can be
unbearably cold, and there’s less to do.
Finally, if you’ve lost all forms
of photo ID, call your airline and
explain the situation; they might allow
you to board the plane if you have a
copy of your passport or birth certificate and a copy of the police report
you’ve filed.
Never mind what the calendar says;
these are Toronto’s true seasons: Spring
runs from late March to mid-May
(though occasionally there’s snow in
mid-Apr); summer, mid-May to midSeptember; fall, mid-September to
mid-November; winter, mid-November to late March. The highest recorded
temperature is 105°F (41°C); the lowest, –27°F (–33°C). The average date of
first frost is October 29; the average
date of last frost is April 20. The wind
blasts from Lake Ontario can be fierce,
even in June. Bring a light jacket or
cardigan.
Toronto’s Average Temperatures °F (°C)
Jan Feb Mar Apr May June July Aug Sept
Oct Nov Dec
High 30 (1) 31 (1) 39 (4) 53 (12) 64 (18) 75 (24) 80 (27) 79 (26) 71 (22) 59 (15) 46 (8) 34 (1)
Low 18 (8) 19 (7) 27 (3) 38 (3) 48 (9) 57 (14) 62 (17) 61 (16) 54 (12) 45 (7) 35 (2) 23 (5)
HOLIDAYS
Toronto celebrates the following holidays: New Year’s Day (Jan 1), Good
Friday and Easter Monday (Mar or
Apr), Victoria Day (Mon following
the third weekend in May), Canada
Day (July 1), Civic Holiday (first Mon
in Aug), Labour Day (first Mon in
Sept), Thanksgiving (second Mon in
Oct), Remembrance Day (Nov 11),
Christmas Day (Dec 25), and Boxing
Day (Dec 26).
On Good Friday and Easter Monday, schools and government offices
close; most corporations close on one
or the other, and a few close on both.
Only banks and government offices
close on Remembrance Day (Nov 11).
TORONTO CALENDAR
OF EVENTS
January, February, March, and April are dominated by trade shows, such as the International Boat and Automobile shows, Metro
Home Show, Outdoor Adventure Sport Show,
and more. For information, call Tourism
Toronto (& 800/363-1990 or 416/2032600; www.torontotourism.com).
January
Chinese New Year Celebrations,
downtown. 2004 is the year of the
monkey. Festivities include traditional and contemporary performances of Chinese opera, dancing,
music, and more. For Harbourfront celebration information,
call & 416/973-3000 or visit www.
harbourfront.on.ca; for SkyDome,
TO R O N TO C A L E N DA R O F E V E N T S
19
Tips Don’t Forget the Sunscreen
Because of Canada’s image of a land of harsh winters, many travelers
don’t realize that summer can be scorching. “The UV index goes quite
high, between 7 and 10, in Toronto,” says Dr. Patricia Agin of the Coppertone Solar Research Center in Memphis. “It’s the same as in New York,
Boston, Chicago, or Detroit.” A UV index reading of 7 can mean sunburn,
so don’t forget to pack your sunscreen and a hat, especially if you’re planning to enjoy Toronto’s many parks and outdoor attractions.
call & 877/666-3838 or check
www.skydome.com. The new year
starts on January 22.
February
Winterfest, Nathan Phillips
Square, Yonge and Eglinton, and
Mel Lastman Square. This 3-day
celebration spreads over three
neighborhoods. It features ice-skating shows, snow play, midway rides,
performances, ice sculpting, artsand-crafts shows, and more. For
information, call & 416/338-0338
or visit www.city.toronto.on.ca.
Usually around Valentine’s Day.
Toronto Festival of Storytelling,
Harbourfront. Now in its 26th year,
this event celebrates international
folklore, with 60 storytellers imparting legends and fables from around
the world. For information, call
& 416/973-3000 or check www.
harbourfront.on.ca. Last weekend
of February.
March
Canada Blooms, Metro Toronto
Convention Centre. At this time of
year, any glimpse of greenery is welcome. There are 2.5 hectares
(6 acres) of indoor garden and
flower displays, seminars with
green-thumb experts, and competitions. For information, call & 416/
593-0223 or visit www.canada
blooms.com. Usually the second
week of March.
St. Patrick’s Day Parade, downtown. Toronto’s own version of the
classic Irish celebration. For information, call & 416/487-1566.
March 17.
April
Blue Jays Season Opener, SkyDome. Turn out to root for your
home-away-from-home team. For
or visit www.bluejays.ca; for tickets,
which usually aren’t too hard to get,
call & 888/654-6529. Mid-April.
The Shaw Festival, Niagara-on-theLake, Ontario. This festival presents
the plays of George Bernard Shaw
and his contemporaries. Call
& 416/690-7301 or 905/468-2172
or visit www.shawfest.com. MidApril through October.
Sante—The Bloor-Yorkville Wine
Festival, Yorkville. This 4-day
gourmet event brings together
award-winning Ontario vintages,
food by top-rated chefs, and live
jazz. For information, call & 416/
504-3977. Last weekend in April.
May
Milk International Children’s
Festival, Harbourfront. This is a
9-day celebration of the arts for
kids—from theater and music to
dance, comedy, and storytelling.
For information, call & 416/9733000 or visit www.harbourfront.
on.ca. Usually starts on Mother’s
Day (second Sun in May).
The Stratford Festival, Stratford,
Ontario. Featuring a wide range of
contemporary and classic plays, this
20
festival always includes several
works by Shakespeare. Call & 800/
567-1600 or 416/364-8355 or
check www.stratford-festival.on.ca.
Early May through October.
June
Harbourfront Reading Series,
Harbourfront. Now in its 30th year,
this festival celebrates the best of
Canadian literature. Top writers
such as Timothy Findley, Anne
Michaels, and Barbara Gowdy read
from their latest works. For information, call Harbourfront at & 416/
973-3000; for tickets, call & 416/
973-4000 or go to www.harbour
front.on.ca. Readings go on through
most of June.
North by Northeast Festival, citywide. Known in the music biz as
NXNE, the 3-day event features
rock and indie bands at 28 venues.
For information, call & 416/4690986 or visit www.nxne.com. June
10 through 12, 2004.
Toronto International Festival
Caravan, citywide. This popular
9-day event is North America’s
largest international festival. It features more than 40 themed pavilions, craft demonstrations, authentic
cuisine, and traditional dance performances by 100 cultural groups.
For information, call & 416/9770466. Usually the third and fourth
weekends of June.
Symphony of Fire, Ontario Place.
This international fireworks competition is set to music and draws
2 million people to the waterfront.
Six shows take place, on several
Saturdays and Wednesdays. For
information, call & 416/4423667; for tickets for waterfront
seating, call & 416/870-8000.
Mid-June through July.
Taste of Little Italy, College Street
between Euclid and Shaw streets.
Restaurants, craftspeople, musicians,
and other performers put on displays
during this 2-day festival for the
whole family. For information, call
& 416/531-9991. Mid-June.
International Dragon Boat Festival, Centre Island. More than 160
teams of dragon-boaters compete in
the 2-day event, which commemorates the death of the Chinese
philosopher and poet Qu Yuan. For
or visit www.dragonboat.com. Third
weekend in June.
Gay & Lesbian Pride Celebration,
citywide. A week of events, performances, symposiums, and parties
culminates in an extravagant Sunday parade. For information, call
& 416/92-PRIDE or 416/9277433, or visit www.pridetoronto.
com. Late June.
Downtown Jazz Festival, citywide.
Sponsored by tobacco giant du
Maurier until 2003, when federal
legislation prohibited the company
from further involvement, the
future of this Toronto tradition is
uncertain at press time. Hopefully
another sponsor will step in to support this 10-day festival that showcases international artists playing
every jazz style—blues, gospel,
Latin, African, traditional—at 60
venues. For information, check out
www.tojazz.com. Late June.
July
Canada Day Celebrations, citywide. July 1, 2004, marks the
nation’s 137th birthday. Street parties, fireworks, and other special
events celebrate the day. For information, contact Tourism Toronto
(& 800/363-1990 or 416/2032600; www.torontotourism.com).
Weekend of July 1.
The Fringe—Toronto’s Theatre
Festival, citywide. More than 90
troupes participate in this 10-day
TO R O N TO C A L E N DA R O F E V E N T S
festival of contemporary and experimental theater. Shows last no more
than an hour. For information, call
& 416/534-5919 or visit www.
fringetoronto.com. First week of
July.
Great Canadian Blues Festival,
Harbourfront Centre. Toronto
shows that it’s got soul in this 3-day
festival of Canada’s best blues musicians. In case the rhythm isn’t
enough to catch you, the Blues Festival coincides with a lip-smacking
BBQ fest, also at Harbourfront. For
information, call Harbourfront at
& 416/973-3000; for tickets, call
& 416/973-4000 or visit www.
harbourfront.on.ca. Second weekend in July.
Molson Indy, the Exhibition Place
Street circuit. One of Canada’s
major races on the IndyCar circuit.
Away from the track, you’ll find live
music and beer gardens. For information, call & 416/922-7477 or
visit www.molsonindy.com. Third
weekend in July.
Caribana, citywide. Toronto’s version of Carnaval transforms the city.
It’s complete with traditional foods
from the Caribbean and Latin
America, ferry cruises, picnics, children’s events, concerts, and artsand-crafts exhibits. Call & 416/
465-4884 for more information or
check www.caribana.com. Late July
through early August.
August
Festival of Beer, Fort York. More
than 70 major Ontario breweries
and microbreweries turn out for
this celebration of suds. There’s also
a wide selection of food from local
restaurants and live music of the
blues, swing, and jazz persuasions.
For information, call & 416/6987206. First weekend in August.
Canadian National Exhibition,
Exhibition Place. One of the world’s
21
largest exhibitions, this 18-day
extravaganza features midway rides,
display buildings, free shows, and
grandstand performers. The 3-day
Canadian International Air Show
(first staged in 1878) is a bonus. Call
& 416/393-6000 for information
or visit www.theex.com. MidAugust through Labour Day.
Tennis Masters Canada/Rogers
AT&T Cup, National Tennis Centre at York University. These two
international tennis championships
(the former is for men, the latter for
women) are important stops on the
pro tennis tour. They attract players
such as Sampras, Agassi, Seles, and
the Williams sisters. In 2004, the
men play in Toronto and the
women in Montréal. In 2005,
they’ll alternate. For information,
call & 416/665-9777 or visit www.
tenniscanada.com. Mid- to late
August.
September
Toronto International Film Festival, citywide. The stars come out for
the second-largest film festival in the
world. More than 250 films from 70
countries are shown over 10 days.
For information, call & 416/968FILM or log on to www.e.bell.ca/
filmfest. Early September.
PGA Tour Canadian Open, Glen
Abbey Golf Club, Oakville.
Canada’s national golf tournament
(& 905/844-1800) has featured
the likes of Greg Norman and Tiger
Woods in recent years. It’s almost
always held at Glen Abbey, though
Montréal played host in 1997. First
or second weekend of September.
Word on the Street, Queen Street
West between Simcoe Street and
Spadina Avenue. This street fair celebrates the written word with readings, discounted books and
magazines, and children’s events.
Other major Canadian cities hold
22
similar events on the same weekend. For information, call & 416/
504-7241. Last weekend in September.
Muskoka Autumn Studio Tour,
Muskoka region, Ontario. This year
marks the 26th anniversary of this
2-day arts festival, which invites
travelers to visit the studios of local
artists and craftspeople. For information, check out www.muskoka.
com/tour. Late September.
October
Oktoberfest, Kitchener–Waterloo,
about 1 hour from Toronto. This
famed 9-day drinkfest features cultural events plus a pageant and
parade. For information, call & 519/
570-4267 or visit www.oktoberfest.
ca. Mid-October.
International Festival of Authors,
Harbourfront. This renowned
11-day literary festival is the most
prestigious in Canada. It draws
more than 100 authors from 25
countries to perform readings and
on-stage interviews. Among the
literary luminaries who have
appeared are Salman Rushdie, Margaret Drabble, Thomas Kenneally,
Joyce Carol Oates, A. S. Byatt, and
Margaret Atwood. For information,
call Harbourfront at & 416/9733000; for tickets, call & 416/9734000 or visit www.harbourfront.
on.ca. Third weekend of October.
Toronto Maple Leafs Opening
Night, Air Canada Centre. Torontonians love their hockey team, so
securing a ticket will be a challenge.
For information, call & 416/2161700; for tickets, call & 416/8725000 or visit www.torontomaple
leafs.com. Mid-October.
The Old Clothing Show & Sale,
Exhibition Place. Everything from
Jazz Age flapper frocks to Austin Powers–like ’60s suits, all under one roof.
For information, call & 416/4101310. Third weekend of October.
November
Royal Agricultural Winter Fair
and Royal Horse Show, Exhibition
Place. The 12-day show is the
Moments Jump Up!
One of the undisputed highlights of summer in Toronto is the annual
Caribana festival. Created in 1967 as a community heritage celebration
to tie in with Canada’s centennial, Caribana has become North America’s largest street festival, drawing more than a million visitors from
North America, Britain, and the Caribbean each year. Originally based
on Trinidad’s Carnival, the festival now draws on numerous cultures—
Jamaican, Guyanese, Brazilian, and Bahamian, to name a few—for its
music, food, and events.
During the 2 weeks that it runs, you will see the influence of Caribana around the city. It starts with a bang (literally, as there are steel
drums involved) at Nathan Phillips Square in front of Toronto City Hall,
with a free concert that features calypso, salsa, and soca music. In the
days that follow, there are boat cruises, dances, and concerts; the King
and Queen Extravaganza, which showcases some of the most amazing
costumes you could hope to see; and an arts festival. The highlight is
the Caribana Parade, which brings together masquerade and steeldrum bands, dancers, and floats for a memorable feast for all the
senses. This is one party you just can’t miss.
T R AV E L I N S U R A N C E
largest indoor agricultural and
equestrian competition in the
world. Displays include vegetables
and fruits, crafts, farm machinery,
livestock, and more. A member
of the British royal family traditionally attends the horse show. Call
& 416/393-6400 or check www.
royalfair.org for information. MidNovember.
Santa Claus Parade, downtown. A
favorite with kids since 1905, it features marching bands, floats, clowns,
and jolly St. Nick. American visitors
are usually surprised that the parade’s
in November, but it’s better than
watching Santa try to slide through
slush. For information, call & 416/
249-7833 or visit www.city.toronto.
on.ca. Third Sunday of November.
One-of-a-Kind Craft Show & Sale,
Exhibition Place. More than 400
craft artists from across Canada display their unique wares at this 11-day
show. For information, call & 416/
960-3680 or visit www.oneofakind
show.com. Last weekend in November through early December.
Cavalcade of Lights, Nathan
Phillips Square. During this holiday
celebration, lights decorate trees in
23
and around Nathan Phillips Square,
parties and performances take over
the skating rink, and ice sculptures
decorate the square. Visit www.city.
toronto.on.ca for more information. Late November through
December 31.
Canadian Aboriginal Festival,
SkyDome. More than 1,500 Native
American dancers, drummers, and
singers attend this weekend celebration. There are literary readings, an
arts-and-crafts market, and traditional foods. Call & 519/751-0040
or visit www.canab.com. Last weekend in November.
December
First Night Toronto and New
Year’s Eve at City Hall. First Night
is an alcohol-free family New Year’s
Eve celebration. A button
(C$8/US$5.60) admits you to a
variety of musical, theatrical, and
dance performances at downtown
venues. In Nathan Phillips Square
and in Mel Lastman Square in
North York, concerts begin at
around 10pm to usher in the
countdown to the new year. Visit
www.city.toronto.on.ca for more
information. December 31.
5 Travel Insurance
Check your existing insurance policies
and credit-card coverage before you
buy travel insurance. You may already
be covered for lost luggage, cancelled
tickets or medical expenses. The cost
of travel insurance varies widely,
depending on the cost and length of
your trip, your age, health, and the
type of trip you’re taking.
TRIP-CANCELLATION INSURANCE Trip-cancellation insurance
helps you get your money back if you
have to back out of a trip, if you have
to go home early, or if your travel supplier goes bankrupt. Allowed reasons
for cancellation can range from sickness
to natural disasters to the State Department declaring your destination unsafe
for travel. (Insurers usually won’t cover
vague fears, though, as many travelers
discovered who tried to cancel their
trips in October 2001 because they
were wary of flying.) In this unstable
world, trip-cancellation insurance is a
good buy if you’re getting tickets well
in advance—who knows what the state
of the world, or of your airline, will
be in 9 months? Insurance policy
details vary, so read the fine print—and
especially make sure that your airline
or cruise line is on the list of carriers
covered in case of bankruptcy. For
24
information, contact one of the following insurers: Access America (& 866/
807-3982; www.accessamerica.com);
Travel Guard International (& 800/
826-4919; www.travelguard.com);
Travel Insured International (& 800/
243-3174; www.travelinsured.com);
and Travelex Insurance Services
(& 888/457-4602; www.travelexinsurance.com).
MEDICAL INSURANCE Most
health insurance policies cover you if
you get sick away from home—but
check, particularly if you’re insured by
an HMO. With the exception of certain HMOs and Medicare/Medicaid,
your medical insurance should cover
medical treatment—even hospital
care—abroad. However, most out-ofcountry hospitals make you pay your
bills up front, and send you a refund
after you’ve returned home and filed
the necessary paperwork. And in a
worst-case scenario, there’s the high
cost of emergency evacuation. If you
require additional medical insurance,
try MEDEX International (& 800/
527-0218 or 410/453-6300; www.
medexassist.com) or Travel Assistance
International (& 800/821-2828;
www.travelassistance.com; for general
information on services, call the company’s Worldwide Assistance Services,
Inc., at & 800/777-8710).
LOST-LUGGAGE INSURANCE
On international flights (including
U.S. portions of international trips),
baggage is limited to approximately
$9.07 per pound, up to approximately
$635 per checked bag. If you plan to
check items more valuable than the
standard liability, see if your valuables
are covered by your homeowner’s policy, get baggage insurance as part of
your comprehensive travel-insurance
package or buy Travel Guard’s “BagTrak” product. Don’t buy insurance at
the airport, as it’s usually overpriced. Be
sure to take any valuables or irreplaceable items with you in your carry-on
luggage, as many valuables (including
books, money and electronics) aren’t
covered by airline policies.
If your luggage is lost, immediately
file a lost-luggage claim at the airport,
detailing the luggage contents. For
most airlines, you must report
delayed, damaged, or lost baggage
within 4 hours of arrival. The airlines
are required to deliver luggage, once
found, directly to your house or destination free of charge.
6 Health
While Toronto has excellent doctors
and some fine hospitals, it’s common
sense to prepare for the trip as you
would for any other. Although the
World Health Organization declared
that SARS had been contained in
summer 2003, it’s still advisable to
avoid Toronto hospitals except in cases
of emergency (the only cases of SARS
transmission in Toronto were in hospitals and other health-care centers).
B E F O R E YO U G O
If you worry about getting sick away
from home, consider purchasing medical travel insurance and carry your
ID card in your purse or wallet. In
most cases, your existing health plan
will provide the coverage you need.
See the section on travel insurance
above for more information.
If you suffer from a chronic illness,
consult your doctor before your departure. For conditions like epilepsy,
diabetes, or heart problems, wear a
Medic Alert Identification Tag
(& 800/825-3785; www.medicalert.
org), which will immediately alert
doctors to your condition and give
them access to your records through
Medic Alert’s 24-hour hot line.
Pack prescription medications in
your carry-on luggage, and carry prescription medications in their original
S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S
25
The SARS Story
SARS hit Toronto hard in 2003, though not in the way most people
think. The tourism industry was devastated by the World Health Organization warning against travel to the city, and by the many conferences and performances that were cancelled in its wake. While
Toronto was undoubtedly the hardest-hit city outside of Asia, the SARS
outbreak was limited to health-care facilities. Not a single person
picked it up at a restaurant, at the theater, on the subway, or in any
other spot a visitor might frequent. Furthermore, at the time of this
writing, Toronto’s number of SARS cases was under review, as it was
discovered that several people with pneumonia had been grouped in
with the SARS stats.
This is a drawn-out way of saying that the SARS story in Toronto was
blown completely out of proportion. It’s one of the safest cities you
could visit in North America. And while the famous folks who cancelled their trips got the media attention, many stars came to Toronto
despite the SARS hysteria. These levelheaded luminaries include Colin
Farrell, Sophia Loren, Gene Hackman, Ray Romano, and Amy Tan. A
special mention should go to Toronto’s own Mike Myers, who turned
serious on a Tonight Show appearance last May to encourage Americans to visit his hometown.
containers, with pharmacy labels—
otherwise they won’t make it through
airport security. Also bring along
copies of your prescriptions in case
you lose your pills or run out. Don’t
forget an extra pair of contact lenses or
prescription glasses. Carry the generic
name of prescription medicines, in
case a local pharmacist is unfamiliar
with the brand name.
Contact the International Association for Medical Assistance to Travelers (IAMAT) (& 716/754-4883 or, in
Canada, 416/652-0137; www.iamat.
org) for tips on travel and health concerns and lists of local doctors. If you
get sick, consider asking your hotel
concierge to recommend a local doctor—even his or her own. You can also
try the emergency room at a local hospital; many have walk-in clinics for
emergency cases that are not life-threatening. You may not get immediate
attention, but you won’t pay the high
price of an emergency room visit.
7 Specialized Travel Resources
and trolleys are not accessible, but the
FOR TRAVELERS WITH
city operates Wheel-Trans, a special
DISABILITIES
Toronto is a very accessible city. Curb
cuts are well made and common
throughout the downtown area; special parking privileges are extended to
people with disabilities who have special plates or a pass that allows parking
in “No Parking” zones. The subway
service for those with disabilities. Visitors can register for this service. For
information, call & 416/393-4111 or
visit www.city.toronto.on.ca/ttc.
The Community Information
Centre of Metropolitan Toronto, 425
Adelaide St. W., at Spadina Avenue,
26
Toronto, ON M5V 3C1 (& 416/3920505), may be able to provide limited
information and assistance about
social-service organizations in the city.
It does not have specific accessibility
information on tourism or hotels. It’s
available weekdays from 8am to 10pm,
and weekends from 10am to 10pm.
Other organizations that offer assistance to disabled travelers include
MossRehab (www.mossresourcenet.
org), which provides a library of accessible-travel resources online; the Society for Accessible Travel and
Hospitality (& 212/447-7284; www.
sath.org; annual membership fees $45
adults, $30 seniors and students),
which offers a wealth of travel resources
for all types of disabilities and informed
recommendations on destinations,
access guides, travel agents, tour operators, vehicle rentals, and companion
services; and the American Foundation for the Blind (& 800/232-5463;
www.afb.org), which provides information on traveling with Seeing Eye dogs.
FOR SENIORS
Mention the fact that you’re a senior
citizen when you make your travel
reservations. Some hotels and many
city attractions grant senior discounts;
bring a form of photo ID.
Members of AARP, 601 E St. NW,
Washington, DC 20049 (& 800/
424-3410 or 202/434-2277; www.
aarp.org), get discounts on hotels, airfares, and car rentals. AARP offers
members a wide range of benefits,
including AARP The Magazine and a
monthly newsletter. Anyone over 50
can join.
Also look into the fun courses
offered in the Toronto region at
incredibly low prices by Elderhostel
(& 877/426-8056; www.elderhostel.
org). Elderhostel arranges study programs for those 55 and over (and a
spouse or companion of any age);
many courses include airfare, accommodations in university dormitories
or modest inns, meals, and tuition.
Another great resource is Wired
Seniors (www.wiredseniors.com).
Travelers aged 50 and over will appreciate this site, which lists accommodations and tours geared toward mature
visitors (click on “Senior Friendly
Web Sites” and enter “Toronto” in the
search box). The discounts section (in
“Seniors Discount Mall”) lists special
savings and deals.
FOR FAMILIES
The family vacation is a rite of passage
for many households, one that in a
split second can devolve into a
National Lampoon farce. But in
Toronto, a city that boasts a plethora
of family-friendly sites, such as the
Ontario Science Centre, the Children’s
Own Museum, and the Toronto Zoo,
you’ll find that a family trip really can
offer something for everyone.
For more suggestions on family and
kid-oriented entertainment in Toronto,
see “Frommer’s Favorite Toronto Experiences” in chapter 1 and “Especially
for Kids” in chapter 6, or pick up a
copy of Toronto Life, a local magazine
that has an excellent kid’s section and
events listing.
Other helpful features in this guide
include “Family-Friendly Hotels”
(p. 66) and “Family-Friendly Restaurants” (p. 93). The “Shopping” chapter
includes great suggestions for children’s
clothes and toys, and Indigo Books
Music & More (p. 179) often offers
events for kids. For even more tips,
pick up a copy of Frommer’s Toronto
with Kids.
Familyhostel (& 800/733-9753;
www.learn.unh.edu/familyhostel)
takes the whole family, including kids
ages 8 to 15, on moderately priced
domestic and international learning
vacations. Lectures, field trips, and
sightseeing are guided by a team of
academics.
You can find good general vacation
advice on the Internet from sites like
the Family Travel Network (www.
familytravelnetwork.com); Traveling
S P E C I A L I Z E D T R AV E L R E S O U R C E S
Internationally with Your Kids
(www.travelwithyourkids.com), a comprehensive site offering sound advice
for long-distance and international
travel with children; and Family Travel
Files (www.thefamilytravelfiles.com),
which offers an online magazine and a
directory of off-the-beaten-path tours
and tour operators for families.
FOR STUDENTS
The key to securing discounts and
other special benefits is to arm yourself with an International Student
Identity Card (ISIC), which offers
substantial savings on rail passes, plane
tickets, and entrance fees. It also provides you with basic health and life
insurance and a 24-hour help line.
The card is available for $22 from
STA Travel (& 800/781-4040, and if
you’re not in North America there’s
probably a local number in your country; www.statravel.com), the biggest
student travel agency in the world. If
you’re no longer a student but are still
under 26, you can get a International
Youth Travel Card (IYTC) for the
same price from the same people,
27
which entitles you to some discounts.
(Note: In 2002, STA Travel bought
competitors Council Travel and
USIT Campus after they went bankrupt. It’s still operating some offices
under the Council name, but
it’s owned by STA.) Travel CUTS
(& 800/667-2887 or 416/614-2887;
www.travelcuts.com) offers similar
services for U.S. residents. Irish students should turn to USIT (& 01/
602-1600; www.usitnow.ie).
If you’d like to meet other students,
you’ve come to the right place. Toronto
has several major colleges in addition to
the sprawling University of Toronto.
The largest university in Canada, with
more than 50,000 students (41,000
full-time), the University of Toronto
offers many year-round activities and
events that any visitor can attend—lectures, seminars, concerts, and more.
U of T Day is usually celebrated in the
middle of October. The university
holds an open house for the community and celebrates with a children’s fair
and the annual homecoming football
game and parade. Call & 416/9788342 for more information, call
Wedded Bliss for Gay & Lesbian Couples
Because same-sex marriage became legal in Ontario in 2003, Toronto is
a popular spot for gay and lesbian couples to marry (in fact, the Gay
Pride celebrations in June 2003 included many newlywed couples). If you
want to get married in Toronto, it’s pretty simple: Go with your partner
to the Registrar General’s office at 900 Bay St. (at Wellesley), bring ID
(including your passport and birth certificate), pay a small fee, and the
marriage license will be yours; there’s no residency requirement. See
www.city.toronto.on.ca for details and an application form that you can
download. For help organizing a wedding beyond the confines of City
Hall, check out the wedding planner pages at www.toronto.com.
If you’re traveling from the U.S. to tie the knot, you should be aware
that although Canada and the U.S. have a reciprocal treaty that specifically agrees to recognize marriages that take place in either country, the
treaty predates the recent changes in Ontario that made gay marriage
legal. At this point, it’s unknown what the legalities really mean in practice when a newlywed gay American couple returns home to Texas.
28
416/978-5000 for campus tours, or
visit www.utoronto.ca.
FOR WOMEN
Women Welcome Women World
Wide (5W) (& 203/259-7832; www.
womenwelcomewomen.org.uk) works
to foster international friendships by
enabling women of different countries
to visit one another (men can come
along on the trips; they just can’t join
the club). It’s a big, active organization,
with more than 3,000 members from
all walks of life in some 70 countries.
Safety and Security for Women
Who Travel, by Sheila Swan Laufer
and Peter Laufer (Travelers’ Tales,
Inc.), offers commonsense advice and
tips on safe travel. Journeywoman
(www.journeywoman.com) is a lively
travel resource, with a “GirlTalk
Guide” to Toronto, and a free e-mail
newsletter.
FOR GAY & LESBIAN
TRAVELERS
Toronto has a large gay population,
estimated at about 250,000. Community life is centered north and south of
the intersection of Church and
Wellesley streets.
8 Planning Your Trip Online
SURFING FOR AIRFARES
The “big three” online travel agencies,
Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, and
Orbitz.com sell most of the air tickets
bought on the Internet. (Canadian
travelers should try Expedia.ca and
Travelocity.ca; U.K. residents can go
for Expedia.co.uk and Opodo.co.uk.)
Each has different business deals with
the airlines and may offer different
fares on the same flights, so it’s wise to
shop around. Expedia and Travelocity
will also send you e-mail notification
when a cheap fare becomes available
to your favorite destination. Of the
smaller travel agency websites, SideStep (www.sidestep.com) has gotten
the best reviews from Frommer’s
Gay and lesbian travelers can pick
up a copy of the biweekly Xtra! It’s
available free at many bookstores,
including the Glad Day Bookshop,
598A Yonge St., second floor (& 416/
961-4161; www.gladdaybookshop.
com). It’s open Monday to Wednesday
from 10am to 6:30pm, Thursday and
Friday from 10am to 9pm, Saturday
from 10am to 6pm, and Sunday from
noon to 6pm. To receive a copy of Xtra!
ahead of time, write to 491 Church St.,
Suite 200, Toronto, ON M4Y 2C6
(& 416/925-6665; www.xtra.ca).
For information on upcoming
events, call Tel-Xtra (& 416/9259872). Another resource is Gay
Toronto
(www.gaytoronto.com),
which lists gay-friendly restaurants,
bars, nightclubs, guesthouses, travel
agencies, and other businesses and
organizations.
The International Gay & Lesbian
Travel Association (IGLTA) (& 800/
448-8550 or 954/776-2626; www.
iglta.org) is the trade association for the
gay and lesbian travel industry, and
offers an online directory of gay- and
lesbian-friendly travel businesses; go to
their website and click on “Members.”
authors. It’s a browser add-on that
purports to “search 140 sites at once,”
but in reality only beats competitors’
fares as often as other sites do.
Also remember to check airline
websites, especially those for low-fare
carriers, whose fares are often misreported or simply missing from travel
agency websites. Even with major airlines, you can often shave a few bucks
from a fare by booking directly
through the airline and avoiding a
travel agency’s transaction fee. But
you’ll get these discounts only by
booking online: Most airlines now
offer online-only fares that even their
phone agents know nothing about.
For the websites of airlines that fly to
P L A N N I N G YO U R T R I P O N L I N E
29
Tips Air Canada CyberDeals
One site that’s particularly worth checking out is Air Canada (www.air
canada.ca). On Wednesday, it offers deeply discounted flights to Canada for
that weekend. You need to reserve on Wednesday or Thursday to fly on Friday (after 7pm only) or Saturday (all day) and return on Monday or Tuesday
(all day). Once you register with Air Canada’s Web Specials page, you’ll
receive an e-mail every Wednesday about available discounts.
and from your destination, go to
“Getting There,” later in this chapter.
Great last-minute deals are available through free weekly e-mail services
provided directly by the airlines. Most
of these are announced on Tuesday or
Wednesday and must be purchased
online. Most are only valid for travel
that weekend, but some can be booked
weeks or months in advance. Sign
up for weekly e-mail alerts at airline
websites or check mega-sites that compile comprehensive lists of last-minute
specials, such as Smarter Living (www.
smarterliving.com). For last-minute
trips, site59.com in the U.S. and last
minute.com in Europe often have better deals than the major-label sites.
If you’re willing to give up some control over your flight details, use an
opaque fare service like Priceline
(www.priceline.com; www.priceline.co.
uk for Europeans) or Hotwire (www.
hotwire.com). Both offer rock-bottom
prices in exchange for travel on a “mystery airline” at a mysterious time of day,
often with a mysterious change of
planes en route. The mystery airlines are
all major, well-known carriers—and the
possibility of being sent from Philadelphia to Chicago via Tampa is remote;
the airlines’ routing computers have
gotten a lot better than they used to be.
But your chances of getting a 6am or
11pm flight are pretty high. Hotwire
tells you flight prices before you buy;
Priceline usually has better deals than
Hotwire, but you have to play their
“name our price” game. If you’re new
at this, the helpful folks at Bidding
ForTravel (www.biddingfortravel.com)
do a good job of demystifying Priceline’s prices. Priceline and Hotwire are
great for flights within North America
and between the U.S. and Europe. But
for flights to other parts of the world,
consolidators will almost always beat
their fares.
SURFING FOR HOTELS
Shopping online for hotels is much easier in the U.S., Canada, and certain
parts of Europe than it is in the rest of
the world. If you try to book a Chinese
hotel online, for instance, you’ll probably overpay. Also, many smaller hotels
and B&Bs—especially outside the
U.S.—don’t show up on websites at all.
Of the “big three” sites, Expedia may
be the best choice, thanks to its long list
of special deals. Travelocity runs a
close second. Hotel specialist sites
hotels.com and hoteldiscounts.com
are also reliable. An excellent free program, TravelAxe (www.travelaxe.net),
can help you search multiple hotel sites
at once, even ones you may never have
heard of.
Priceline and Hotwire are even better for hotels than for airfares; with
both, you’re allowed to pick the neighborhood and quality level of your hotel
before offering up your money. Priceline’s hotel product even covers Europe
and Asia, though it’s much better at
getting luxury lodging for moderate
prices than at finding anything at the
bottom of the scale. Note: Hotwire
overrates its hotels by one star.
30
SURFING FOR RENTAL CARS
For booking rental cars online, the best
deals are usually found at rental-car
company websites, although all the
major online travel agencies also offer
rental-car reservations services. Priceline
9 The 21st-Century Traveler
INTERNET ACCESS AWAY
FROM HOME
Travelers have any number of ways to
check their e-mail and access the
Internet on the road. Of course, using
your own laptop—or even a PDA or
electronic organizer with a modem—
gives you the most flexibility. But even
if you don’t have a computer, you can
still access your e-mail and even your
office computer from cybercafes.
W I T H O U T YO U R O W N
COMPUTER
It’s hard nowadays to find a city that
doesn’t have a few cybercafes. Although
there’s no definitive directory for
cybercafes—these are independent
businesses, after all—three places to
start looking are at www.cybercaptive.
com, www.netcafeguide.com, and
www.cybercafe.com. See also “Internet
and Hotwire work well for rental cars,
too; the only “mystery” is which major
rental company you get, and for most
travelers the difference between Hertz,
Avis, and Budget is negligible.
Access” under “Fast Facts: Toronto” in
chapter 3.
Aside from formal cybercafes, most
youth hostels nowadays have at least
one computer you can use to get onto
the Internet. And most public
libraries across the world offer Internet access free or for a small charge.
Avoid hotel business centers, which
often charge exorbitant rates.
Most major airports now have Internet kiosks scattered throughout their
gates. These kiosks, which you’ll also see
in shopping malls, hotel lobbies, and
tourist information offices around the
world, give you basic Web access for a
per-minute fee that’s usually higher
than cybercafe prices. The kiosks’
clunkiness and high price means they
should be avoided whenever possible.
To retrieve your e-mail, ask your
Internet Service Provider (ISP) if it
Frommers.com: The Complete Travel Resource
For an excellent travel-planning resource, we highly recommend Frommers.com (www.frommers.com). We’re a little biased, of course, but
we guarantee that you’ll find the travel tips, reviews, monthly vacation
giveaways, and online-booking capabilities thoroughly indispensable.
Among the special features are our popular Message Boards, where
Frommer’s readers post queries and share advice (sometimes even our
authors show up to answer questions); Frommers.com Newsletter, for
the latest travel bargains and insider travel secrets; and Frommer’s
Destinations Section, where you’ll get expert travel tips, hotel and dining recommendations, and advice on the sights to see for more than
3,000 destinations around the globe. When your research is done, the
Online Reservations System (www.frommers.com/book_a_trip) takes
you to Frommer’s preferred online partners for booking your vacation
at affordable prices.
T H E 2 1 S T- C E N T U R Y T R A V E L E R
has a Web-based interface tied to your
existing e-mail account. If your ISP
doesn’t have such an interface, you can
use the free mail2web service
(www.mail2web.com) to view and
reply to your home e-mail. For more
flexibility, you may want to open a
free, Web-based e-mail account with
Yahoo! Mail (http://mail.yahoo.com).
(Microsoft’s Hotmail is another popular option, but Hotmail has severe
spam problems.) Your home ISP may
be able to forward your e-mail to the
Web-based account automatically.
If you need to access files on your
office computer, look into a service
called GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc.
com). The service provides a Webbased interface for you to access and
manipulate a distant PC from anywhere—even a cybercafe—provided
your “target” PC is on and has an
always-on connection to the Internet
(such as with Road Runner cable). The
service offers top-quality security, but if
you’re worried about hackers, use your
own laptop rather than a cybercafe to
access the GoToMyPC system.
W I T H YO U R O W N
COMPUTER
Major Internet Service Providers (ISP)
have local access numbers around the
world, allowing you to go online by
simply placing a local call. Check your
ISP’s website or call its toll-free number and ask how you can use your current account away from home, and
how much it will cost.
If you’re traveling outside the reach
of your ISP, the iPass network has dialup numbers in most of the world’s
countries. You’ll have to sign up with
an iPass provider, who will then tell you
how to set up your computer for your
destination(s). For a list of iPass
providers, go to www.ipass.com and
click on “Reseller Locator.” Under
“Select a Country” pick the country
that you’re coming from, and under
“Who is this service for?” pick “Individual”. One solid provider is i2roam
31
(& 866/811-6209 or 920/235-0475;
www.i2roam.com).
Wherever you go, bring a connection kit of the right power and phone
adapters, a spare phone cord, and a
spare Ethernet network cable. The electrical current is the same as in the
United States—110 volts, 50 cycles AC.
Most business-class hotels throughout the world offer dataports for laptop modems, and a few thousand
hotels in the U.S. and Europe now
offer high-speed Internet access using
an Ethernet network cable. You’ll have
to bring your own cables either way, so
call your hotel in advance to find out
what the options are. Many businessclass hotels in the U.S. also offer a
form of computer-free Web browsing
through the room TV set. We’ve successfully checked Yahoo! Mail and
Hotmail on these systems.
If you have an 802.11b/Wi-fi card
for your computer, several commercial
companies have made wireless service
available in airports, hotel lobbies, and
coffee shops, primarily in the U.S.
T-Mobile Hotspot (www.t-mobile.
com/hotspot) serves up wireless connections at more than 1,000 Starbucks
coffee shops nationwide. Boingo
(www.boingo.com) and Wayport
(www.wayport.com) have set up networks in airports and high-class hotel
lobbies. IPass providers (see above)
also give you access to a few hundred
wireless hotel lobby setups. Best of all,
you don’t need to be staying at the
Four Seasons to use the hotel’s network; just set yourself up on a nice
couch in the lobby. Unfortunately, the
companies’ pricing policies are byzantine, with a variety of monthly, perconnection, and per-minute plans.
Community-minded individuals
have also set up free wireless networks in major cities around the
world. These networks are spotty, but
you get what you (don’t) pay for. Each
network has a home page explaining
how to set up your computer for their
32
Online Traveler’s Toolbox
Veteran travelers usually carry some essential items to make their trips
easier. Following is a selection of online tools to bookmark and use.
• Visa ATM Locator (www.visa.com), for locations of PLUS ATMs
worldwide, or MasterCard ATM Locator (www.mastercard.com), for
locations of Cirrus ATMs worldwide.
• Intellicast (www.intellicast.com) and Weather.com (www.weather.
com). Gives weather forecasts for Toronto and other cities around
the world.
• Mapquest (www.mapquest.com). This best of the mapping sites lets
you choose a specific address or destination, and in seconds, it will
return a map and detailed directions.
• Universal Currency Converter (www.xe.com/ucc). See what your dollar
or pound is worth in more than 100 other countries.
• Travel Warnings (http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html, www.
fco.gov.uk/travel, www.voyage.gc.ca, www.dfat.gov.au/consular/
advice). These sites report on places where health concerns or unrest
might threaten American, British, Canadian, and Australian travelers. Generally, U.S. warnings are the most paranoid; Australian
warnings are the most relaxed.
particular system; start your explorations at www.personaltelco.net/
index.cgi/WirelessCommunities.
USING A CELLPHONE
The three letters that define much of
the world’s wireless capabilities are
GSM (Global System for Mobiles), a
big, seamless network that makes for
easy cross-border cellphone use
throughout Europe and dozens of
other countries worldwide. In the U.S.,
T-Mobile, AT&T Wireless, and Cingular use this quasi-universal system; in
Canada, Microcell and some Rogers
customers are GSM, and all Europeans
and most Australians use GSM.
If your cellphone is on a GSM system, and you have a world-capable
phone such as many (but not all) Sony
Ericsson, Motorola, or Samsung models, you can make and receive calls
across civilized areas on much of the
globe, from Andorra to Uganda. Just
call your wireless operator and ask for
“international roaming” to be activated
on your account. Unfortunately,
per-minute charges can be high—usually $1 to $1.50 in Western Europe and
up to $5 in places like Russia and
Indonesia.
World-phone owners can bring
down their per-minute charges with a
bit of trickery. Call up your cellular
operator and say you’ll be going
abroad for several months and want to
“unlock” your phone to use it with a
local provider. Usually, they’ll oblige.
Then, in Toronto, pick up a cheap,
prepaid phone chip at a mobile phone
store and slip it into your phone.
(Show your phone to the salesperson,
as not all phones work on all networks.) You’ll get a local phone number in Toronto—and much, much
lower calling rates.
Otherwise, renting a phone is a
good idea. While you can rent a phone
from any number of overseas sites,
including kiosks at airports and at carrental agencies, we suggest renting the
GETTING THERE
phone before you leave home. That
way you can give loved ones your new
number, make sure the phone works,
and take the phone wherever you go.
But phone rental isn’t cheap: You’ll
usually pay $40 to $50 per week, plus
airtime fees of at least a dollar a
minute. Be sure to shop around.
Two good wireless rental companies
are InTouch USA (& 800/872-7626;
www.intouchglobal.com) and RoadPost (& 888/290-1606 or 905/2725665; www.roadpost.com). Give them
your itinerary, and they’ll tell you
what wireless products you need.
InTouch will also, for free, advise you
10 Getting There
BY PLANE
Wherever you’re traveling from, always
shop the airlines and ask for the lowest
fare. You’ll have a better chance of landing a deal if you’re willing to be flexible
about when you arrive and leave.
You may be able to fly for less than
the standard advance (APEX) fare by
contacting a ticket broker or consolidator. These companies, which buy
tickets in bulk and sell them at a discount, advertise in the Sunday travel
sections of major city newspapers. You
may not be able to get the lowest price
they advertise, but you’re likely to pay
less than the price quoted by the
major airlines. Tickets purchased
through a consolidator are often nonrefundable. If you change your itinerary after purchase, chances are you’ll
pay a stiff penalty.
FROM THE U.S. Canada’s only
national airline, Air Canada (& 888/
247-2262; www.aircanada.ca), operates direct flights to Toronto from most
major American cities and many
smaller ones. It also flies from major
cities around the world and operates
connecting flights from other U.S.
cities.
Among U.S. airlines, American
(& 800/433-7300; www.aa.com) has
33
on whether your existing phone will
work overseas; simply call & 703/
222-7161 or go to http://intouch
global.com/travel.htm.
For trips of more than a few weeks
spent in one country, buying a phone
becomes economically attractive,
as many nations have cheap, noquestions-asked prepaid phone systems.
Stop by a local cellphone shop and get
the cheapest package; you’ll probably
pay less than $100 for a phone and a
starter calling card. Local calls may be as
low as 10¢ per minute, and in many
countries incoming calls are free.
daily direct flights from Chicago,
Dallas, Miami, and New York. United
(& 800/241-6522; www.united.com)
has direct flights from Chicago, San
Francisco, and Washington (Dulles);
it’s a code-share partner with Air
Canada. US Airways (& 800/4284322; www.usairways.com) operates
directly into Toronto from a number
of U.S. cities, notably Baltimore, Indianapolis, Philadelphia, and Pittsburgh.
Northwest (& 800/225-2525; www.
nwa.com) flies direct from Detroit and
Minneapolis. Delta (& 800/2211212; www.delta.com) flies direct
from Atlanta and Cincinnati.
FROM ABROAD There’s frequent
service (direct and indirect) to
Toronto from around the world.
Several airlines operate from the
United Kingdom. British Airways
(& 0845/773-3377; www.ba.com)
and Air Canada (& 08705/247-226)
fly direct from London’s Heathrow
airport. Air Canada also flies direct
from Glasgow and Manchester. Virgin
Atlantic (& 01293/747-245; www.
virgin-atlantic.com) has direct flights
out of Gatwick airport.
In Australia, Air Canada (& 02/
9286-8900) has an agreement with
Qantas and flies from Sydney to
34
Toronto, stopping in Honolulu. From
New Zealand, Air Canada (& 09/
379-3371) cooperates with Air New
Zealand, scheduling on average three
flights a week from Auckland to
Toronto, via Honolulu, Fiji, or both.
From Cape Town, South Africa,
Delta (& 011/482-4582 in South
Africa) operates via New York; Air
Canada (& 011/875-5800) via
Frankfurt; and South African Airways (& 021/254-610; www.saa.co.
za) via Miami or New York. Several
airlines fly from Johannesburg,
including British Airways (& 011/
441-8600) via Heathrow and South
African Airways (& 011/333-6504)
via Miami or New York.
GETTING THROUGH
THE AIRPORT
With the federalization of airport
security, security procedures at U.S.
airports are more stable and consistent
than ever. Generally, you’ll be fine if
you arrive at the airport 2 hours
before an international flight; if you
show up late, tell an airline employee
and you’ll probably be whisked to the
front of the line.
Bring a current, governmentissued photo ID such as a driver’s
license or passport; you’ll need to
show it at the security checkpoint, and
your ID at the ticket counter or the
gate. (Children under 18 do not need
photo IDs for domestic flights, but
the adults checking in with them need
them.)
Security lines are getting shorter, but
some doozies remain. If you have trouble standing for long periods of time,
tell an airline employee; the airline will
provide a wheelchair. Speed up security
by not wearing metal objects such as
big belt buckles or clanky earrings. If
you’ve got metallic body parts, a note
from your doctor can prevent a long
chat with the security screeners. Keep
in mind that only ticketed passengers
are allowed past security, except for
folks escorting disabled passengers or
children.
Federalization has stabilized what
you can carry on and what you can’t.
The general rule is that sharp things
are out, nail clippers are okay, and
food and beverages must be passed
through the X-ray machine—but
security screeners can’t make you
drink from your coffee cup. Bring
food in your carry-on rather than
checking it, as explosive-detection
machines used on checked luggage
have been known to mistake food
(especially chocolate, for some reason)
for bombs. Travelers in the U.S. are
allowed one carry-on bag, plus a “personal item” such as a purse, briefcase,
or laptop bag. Carry-on hoarders can
stuff all sorts of things into a laptop
bag; as long as it has a laptop in it, it’s
still considered a personal item. The
Transportation Security Administration (TSA) has issued a list of
restricted items; check its website
(www.tsa.gov) for details.
In 2003, the TSA phased out gate
check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with E-tickets and without
checked bags can still beat the ticketcounter lines by using electronic
kiosks or even online check-in. Ask
your airline which alternatives are
available, and if you’re using a kiosk,
bring the credit card you used to book
the ticket. If you’re checking bags, you
will still be able to use most airlines’
kiosks; again call your airline for
up-to-date information. Curbside
check-in is also a good way to avoid
lines, although a few airlines still ban
curbside check-in entirely; call before
you go.
At press time, the TSA is also recommending that you not lock your
checked luggage so screeners can
search it by hand if necessary. The
agency says to use plastic “zip ties”
instead, which can be bought at hardware stores and can be easily cut off.
GETTING THERE
F LY I N G F O R L E S S : T I P S
FOR GETTING THE BEST
A I R FA R E
Passengers sharing the same airplane
cabin rarely pay the same fare. Travelers who need to purchase tickets at the
last minute, change their itinerary at a
moment’s notice, or fly one-way often
get stuck paying the premium rate.
Here are some ways to keep your airfare costs down.
• Passengers who can book their
ticket long in advance, who can
stay over Saturday night, or who
fly midweek or at less-trafficked
hours will pay a fraction of the
full fare. If your schedule is flexible, say so, and ask if you can
secure a cheaper fare by changing
your flight plans.
• You can also save on airfares by
keeping an eye out in local newspapers for promotional specials
or fare wars, when airlines lower
prices on their most popular
routes. You rarely see fare wars
offered for peak travel times, but if
you can travel in the off-months,
you may snag a bargain.
• Search the Internet for cheap
fares (see “Planning Your Trip
Online,” earlier in this chapter).
• Consolidators, also known as
bucket shops, are great sources for
international tickets, although
they usually can’t beat the Internet
on fares within North America.
35
Start by looking in Sunday newspaper travel sections; U.S. travelers should focus on The New York
Times, Los Angeles Times, and
Miami Herald. For less-developed
destinations, small travel agents
who cater to immigrant communities in large cities often have the
best deals. Beware: Bucket shop
tickets are usually nonrefundable
or rigged with stiff cancellation
penalties, often as high as 50% to
75% of the ticket price, and some
put you on charter airlines with
questionable safety records.
Several reliable consolidators are
worldwide and available on the
Net. STA Travel (& 800/7814040; www.statravel.com) is now
the world’s leader in student travel,
thanks to their purchase of Council Travel. It also offers good fares
for travelers of all ages. Flights.
com (& 800/TRAV-800; www.
flights.com) started in Europe and
has excellent fares worldwide. Air
Tickets Direct (& 800/7783447; www.airticketsdirect.com) is
based in Montréal and leverages
the currently weak Canadian dollar
for low fares; it’ll also book trips to
places that U.S. travel agents won’t
touch, such as Cuba.
• Join frequent-flier clubs. Accrue
enough miles, and you’ll be
rewarded with free flights and elite
status. It’s free, and you’ll get the
Travel in the Age of Bankruptcy
At press time, a major U.S. airline was struggling in bankruptcy court and
most of the rest weren’t doing very well either. To protect yourself, buy
your tickets with a credit card, as the Fair Credit Billing Act guarantees that
you can get your money back from the credit-card company if a travel supplier goes under (and if you request the refund within 60 days of the bankruptcy.) Travel insurance can also help, but make sure it covers against
“carrier default” for your specific travel provider. And be aware that if a U.S.
airline goes bust mid-trip, a 2001 federal law requires other carriers to take
you to your destination (albeit on a space-available basis) for a fee of no
more than $25, provided you rebook within 60 days of the cancellation.
36
best choice of seats, faster response
to phone inquiries, and prompter
service if your luggage is stolen,
your flight is canceled or delayed,
or if you want to change your seat.
You don’t need to fly to build frequent-flier miles—frequent-flier
credit cards can provide thousands of miles for doing your
everyday shopping.
BY TRAIN
Amtrak’s “Maple Leaf ” service links
New York City and Toronto via
Albany, Buffalo, and Niagara Falls. It
departs daily from Penn Station. The
journey takes 113⁄ 4 hours. From
Chicago, the “International” carries
passengers to Toronto via Port Huron,
Michigan, a 121⁄ 2-hour trip. Note that
these lengthy schedules allow for
extended stops at customs and immigration checkpoints at the border.
Both trains arrive in Toronto at Union
Station on Front Street, 1 block west
of Yonge Street, opposite the Fairmont
Royal York Hotel. The station has
direct access to the subway.
To secure the lowest round-trip fares,
book as far in advance as possible, and
try to travel midweek. Seat availability
determines price levels; the earlier you
book, the more likely you are to land a
lower fare. Sample fares (for use as
guidelines only), depending on seat
availability: from New York, US$65 to
$99 one-way or US$130 to $198
round-trip; from Chicago, US$98 oneway, US$108 to $196 round-trip.
Prices do not include meals. Always ask
about the availability of discounted
fares, companion fares, and any other
special tickets. Call Amtrak at
& 800/USA-RAIL or 800/872-7245,
or visit www.amtrak.com.
BY BUS
Greyhound (& 800/231-2222; www.
greyhound.com) is the only bus company that crosses the U.S. border. You
can travel from almost anywhere in the
United States. You’ll arrive at the
Metro Coach Terminal downtown at
610 Bay St., near the corner of Dundas
Street.
The bus may be faster and cheaper
than the train, and its routes may be
more flexible if you want to stop along
the way. Bear in mind that it’s more
cramped, toilet facilities are meager,
and meals are taken at somewhat
depressing rest stops.
Depending on where you are coming from, check into Greyhound’s
special unlimited-travel passes and discount fares. It’s hard to provide sample
fares because bus companies, like airlines, are adopting yield-management
strategies, causing prices to change
from day to day.
BY CAR
Crossing the border by car gives you a
lot of options—the U.S. highway system leads directly into Canada at 13
points. If you’re driving from Michigan, you’ll enter at Detroit–Windsor
(I-75 and the Ambassador Bridge) or
Port Huron–Sarnia (I-94 and the
Bluewater Bridge). If you’re coming
from New York, you have more
options. On I-190, you can enter at
Buffalo–Fort Erie; Niagara Falls,
N.Y.–Niagara Falls, ON; or Niagara
Falls, N.Y.–Lewiston. On I-81, you’ll
cross the Canadian border at Hill
Island; on Rte. 37, you’ll enter at
either Ogdensburg–Johnstown or
Rooseveltown–Cornwall.
From the United States you are
most likely to enter Toronto from the
west on Hwy. 401 or Hwy. 2 and the
Queen Elizabeth Way. If you come
from the east via Montréal, you’ll also
use 401 and 2.
Here are approximate driving distances to Toronto: from Boston,
911km (566 miles); Buffalo, 155km
(96 miles); Chicago, 859km (534
PA C K A G E S F O R T H E I N D E P E N D E N T T R AV E L E R
miles); Cincinnati, 806km (501
miles); Detroit, 379km (236 miles);
Minneapolis, 1,564km (972 miles);
New York, 797km (495 miles).
Be sure you have your driver’s
license and car registration if you plan
to drive your own vehicle into
Canada. It isn’t a bad idea to carry
37
proof of automobile liability insurance, either.
If you are a member of the American
Automobile Association (AAA), the
Canadian Automobile Association
(CAA) Central Ontario Branch in
Toronto (& 416/221-4300; www.caa.
ca) provides emergency road service.
11 Packages for the Independent Traveler
Before you start your search for the
lowest airfare, you may want to consider booking your flight as part of a
travel package. Package tours are
not the same thing as escorted tours.
Package tours are simply a way to buy
the airfare, accommodations, and
other elements of your trip (such as
car rentals, airport transfers, and
sometimes even activities) at the same
time and often at discounted prices—
kind of like one-stop shopping. Packages are sold in bulk to tour
operators—who resell them to the
public at a cost that usually undercuts
standard rates.
One good source of package deals is
the airlines themselves. Most major
airlines offer air/land packages, including American Airlines Vacations
(& 800/321-2121; www.aavacations.
com), Delta Vacations (& 800/2216666; www.deltavacations.com), Continental Airlines Vacations (& 800/
301-3800; www.coolvacations.com),
and United Vacations (& 888/8543899; www.unitedvacations.com). Several big online travel agencies—Expedia.com, Travelocity.com, Orbitz.com,
Site59.com, and Lastminute.com—also
do a brisk business in packages. If you’re
unsure about the pedigree of a smaller
packager, check with the Better Business Bureau in the city where the company is based, or go online at www.bbb.
org. If a packager won’t tell you where
it’s based, don’t fly with them.
Travel packages are also listed in the
travel section of your local Sunday
newspaper. Or check ads in the national
travel magazines such as Arthur Frommer’s Budget Travel Magazine, Travel &
Leisure, National Geographic Traveler,
and Condé Nast Traveler.
Package tours can vary by leaps and
bounds. Some offer a better class of
hotels than others. Some offer the
same hotels for lower prices. Some
offer flights on scheduled airlines,
while others book charters. Some limit
your choice of accommodations and
travel days. You are often required to
make a large payment up front. On
the plus side, packages can save you
money, offering group prices but
allowing for independent travel. Some
even let you add on a few guided
excursions or escorted day trips (also
at prices lower than if you booked
them yourself ) without booking an
entirely escorted tour.
Before you invest in a package tour,
get some answers. Ask about the
accommodations choices and prices
for each. Then look up the hotels’
reviews in a Frommer’s guide and
check their rates for your specific dates
of travel online. You’ll also want to
find out what type of room you get.
If you need a certain type of room, ask
for it; don’t take whatever is thrown
your way. Request a nonsmoking
room, a quiet room, a room with a
view, or whatever you fancy.
Finally, look for hidden expenses.
Ask whether airport departure fees
and taxes, for example, are included in
the total cost.
38
12 Tips on Accommodations
Toronto has a wealth of great places to
stay. Major chains such as Hyatt, Fairmont, Four Seasons, Marriott, Sheraton, Westin, Holiday Inn, and
Ramada are all represented, and there
are several smaller boutique hotels as
well. The only difficulty is in getting a
deal, particularly in the downtown
core. Here are some ways to ensure
that you get the best price possible.
SAVING ON YOUR
HOTEL ROOM
The rack rate is the maximum rate
that a hotel charges for a room.
Hardly anybody pays this price, however. To lower the cost of your room:
• Ask about special rates or other
discounts. Always ask whether a
less expensive room than the first
one quoted is available, or whether
any special rates apply to you. You
may qualify for corporate, student,
military, senior, or other discounts.
Mention membership in AAA,
AARP, frequent-flier programs, or
trade unions, which may entitle
you to special deals as well. Find
out the hotel policy on children—
do kids stay free in the room or is
there a special rate?
• Dial direct. When booking a
room in a chain hotel, you’ll often
get a better deal by calling the
individual hotel’s reservation desk
than at the chain’s main number.
• Book online. Many hotels offer
Internet-only discounts, or supply
rooms to Priceline, Hotwire, or
Expedia at rates much lower than
the ones you can get through the
hotel itself. See “Planning Your
Trip Online,” earlier in this chapter, for more information.
• Remember the law of supply
and demand. Business hotels in
downtown locations are busiest
during the week, so you can
expect big discounts over the
weekend. Resort hotels are most
crowded and therefore most
expensive on weekends, so discounts are usually available for
midweek stays. Many hotels have
high-season and low-season
prices, and booking the day after
“high season” ends can mean big
discounts.
• Look into group or long-stay
discounts. If you come as part of
a large group, you should be able
to negotiate a bargain rate, since
the hotel can then guarantee occupancy in a number of rooms.
Likewise, if you’re planning a long
stay (at least 5 days), you might
qualify for a discount. As a general
rule, expect 1 night free after a
7-night stay.
• Avoid excess charges and hidden
costs. When you book a room,
ask whether the hotel charges for
parking. Use your own cellphone,
pay phones, or prepaid phone
cards instead of dialing direct
from hotel phones, which usually
have exorbitant rates. And don’t
be tempted by the room’s minibar
offerings: Most hotels charge
through the nose for water, soda,
and snacks. Finally, ask about
local taxes and service charges,
which can increase the cost of a
room by 15% or more. If a hotel
insists upon tacking on a surprise
“energy surcharge” that wasn’t
mentioned at check-in or a “resort
fee” for amenities you didn’t use,
you can often make a case for getting it removed.
LANDING THE BEST ROOM
Somebody has to get the best room in
the house. It might as well be you. You
can start by joining the hotel’s frequent-guest program, which may
RECOMMENDED READING
make you eligible for upgrades. A
hotel-branded credit card usually gives
it owner “silver” or “gold” status in frequent-guest programs for free. Always
ask about a corner room. They’re often
larger and quieter, with more windows
and light, and they often cost the same
as standard rooms. When you make
your reservation, ask if the hotel is
renovating; if it is, request a room
away from the construction. Ask
about nonsmoking rooms, rooms with
39
views, rooms with twin, queen- or
king-size beds. If you’re a light sleeper,
request a quiet room away from vending machines, elevators, restaurants,
bars, and discos. Ask for one of the
rooms that have been most recently
renovated or redecorated.
If you aren’t happy with your room
when you arrive, say so. If another
room is available, most lodgings will
be willing to accommodate you.
13 Recommended Reading
Though it hasn’t always played itself in
the movies (doubling often as other
major cities instead), Toronto does
have quite a literary legacy to call its
own. It’s the hometown of authors
Margaret Atwood, Michael Ondaatje,
and media theorist and writer Marshall McLuhan. Famous for saying
“The medium is the message,”
McLuhan’s works include Understanding Media: The Extensions of
Man, and War & Peace in the Global
Village. There’s also a volume called
The Essential McLuhan to consider if
you’re a fan.
Atwood’s The Robber Bride pays
homage to her hometown with a story
that covers 3 decades of life in the city.
Some of her other novels, such as The
Edible Woman, Cat’s Eye, and The
Blind Assassin also use Toronto as a
backdrop. In the Skin of a Lion by
Michael Ondaatje, the celebrated
author of The English Patient, is a
moving love story that brings the city’s
landmarks to life. Carol Shields, who
died in 2003, set her final novel Unless
in Toronto’s streets.
Another notable novel is Cabbagetown by Hugh Gardner, the story of
the fight to survive in a Toronto slum
in the 1930s. (Cabbagetown was
famous as the largest Anglo-Saxon
slum in North America). For those
more interested in possible futures
than the past, there’s an Afrofuturist/
sci-fi novel called Brown Girl in
the Ring by Nalo Hopkinson. Some
other books to consider: Noise and
How Insensitive by Russell Smith;
Headhunter by Timothy Findley; The
Origin of Waves by Austin Clarke; and
Lost Girls by Andrew Pyper. (While
you’re at it, you might want to pick up
the Booker Prize–winning Life of Pi by
Yann Martel and Martin Sloane by
Michael Redhill; while not set in
Toronto, these novels are by local
authors).
If you’re interested in architecture,
an especially good read is Emerald
City: Toronto Revisited, by John Bentley Mays. Emerald City explores all of
Toronto’s special places, from the
majesty of Casa Loma to the colorful
bedlam of Kensington Market. Speaking of craziness, another nonfiction
book to check out is In the Mad Water:
Two Centuries of Adventure and
Lunacy at Niagara Falls by T.W.
Kriner. Finally, travel writer Jan Morris is always a delight to read, and her
book O Canada! Travels in an
Unknown Country is no exception.
3
Getting to Know Toronto
T
oronto is a wonderful city in which
to get lost. Start anywhere in the
downtown core and walk in any direction for no more than 15 minutes.
You’ll see eclectic modern buildings
side by side with neo-Gothic and Art
Deco architecture, catch a fair glimpse
of the city’s ethnic spectrum, and walk
right into a pleasing patch of greenery.
This is a happy coincidence because
the layout and organization of the city
mean you will get lost at least once
during your stay. Streets have names,
not numbers, and they have a crazymaking habit of changing their
monikers as they go along. In Midtown, the must-see Avenue Road, for
example, turns into Queen’s Park
Crescent and then into University
Avenue as you head south, and into
Oriole Parkway if you go north. My
best advice: Relax and enjoy the ride.
In this chapter, you’ll find information
on the highways, byways, and services
that make Toronto tick.
1 Orientation
ARRIVING
BY PLANE
Most flights arrive at Pearson International Airport, in the northwest corner
of Metro Toronto, approximately 30 minutes from downtown. The trip takes 10
to 15 minutes longer during the weekday morning rush (7–9am). A few (mostly
commuter) flights land at the Toronto Island Airport, a short ferry ride from
downtown.
Pearson serves more than 50 airlines. At press time, the most impressive of its
three terminals is the Trillium Terminal 3 (& 905/612-5100). This airy, modern facility has moving walkways, a huge food court, and many retail stores.
However, there is an even grander terminal currently under construction that
will replace the existing Terminals 1 and 2. (Terminal 1 has the distinction of
being the gloomiest, ugliest airport terminal this travel writer has ever seen.) Its
opening has been delayed, but it should be open for business in late 2003.
To get from the airport to downtown, take Highway 427 south to the Gardiner Expressway East. A taxi costs about C$36 (US$25). A slightly sleeker way
to go is by flat-rate limousine, which costs around C$40 (US$28). Two limo
services are Aaroport (& 416/745-1555) and AirLine (& 905/676-3210).
You don’t need a reservation. Most first-class hotels run their own hotel limousine services; check when you make your reservation.
The convenient Airport Express bus (& 905/564-6333) travels between the
airport, the bus terminal, and major downtown hotels—the Westin Harbour
Castle, Fairmont Royal York, The Sheraton Centre Toronto, and the Delta
Chelsea—every 20 minutes, from 4:55am to 12:55am, with one extra run
around 2:30am. The adult fare is C$13 (US$8.75) one-way, C$22 (US$16)
round-trip; children under 11 accompanied by an adult ride free.
O R I E N TAT I O N
41
The cheapest way to go is by bus and subway, which takes about an hour.
From Terminal 2, take the #58 bus to Lawrence West station, the #192 “Airport
Rocket” bus to Kipling station, or the #307 bus to Eglinton West station. Only
the #192 bus serves Terminal 3; there are no public buses from Terminal 1
(though there is a shuttle that will drop you off at Terminal 2 or 3). The fare of
C$2.25 (US$1.60) includes free transfer to the subway. It doesn’t matter which
bus you use; they all take roughly the same amount of time. (The Airport
Rocket reaches the subway fastest, but the subway ride to downtown is twice as
long as from the other stations.) For more information, call the Toronto Transit Commission, or TTC (& 416/393-4636).
BY TRAIN
Trains arrive at Union Station on Front Street, 1 block west of Yonge Street,
opposite the Fairmont Royal York hotel. The station has direct access to the subway, so you can easily reach any Toronto destination.
VISITOR INFORMATION
For hotel, dining, and other tourist information, head to (or write to) Tourism
Toronto, 207 Queens Quay W., Suite 590, Toronto, ON M5J 1A7 (& 800/3631990 or 416/203-2600; www.torontotourism.com). It’s in the Queen’s Quay
Terminal at Harbourfront, and is open Monday to Friday from 9am to 5pm. Take
the LRT (light rapid transit system) from Union Station to the York Street stop.
The website has up-to-the-minute city calendar and events information.
More convenient is the drop-in Ontario Visitor Information Centre (& 416/
314-5901), in the Eaton Centre, on Yonge Street at Dundas Street. It’s on Level
1 (one floor below street level) and is open Monday to Friday from 10am to 9pm,
Saturday from 9:30am to 6pm, and Sunday from noon to 5pm.
To pick up brochures and a map at Pearson International Airport, stop by
the Transport Canada Information Centre (& 905/676-3506 or 416/2477678). There’s one in each terminal. A staff fluent in a dozen languages can
answer questions about attractions, ground transportation, and more.
P U B L I C AT I O N S & W E B S I T E S
Toronto has four daily newspapers: the Globe and Mail, the National Post, the
Toronto Star, and the Toronto Sun. All have some local listings, but the best
are in the Star, which lists events, concerts, theater performances, first-run films,
and the like.
Even better bets are the free weeklies Now and Eye, both published on Thursday and available in news boxes and at cafes and shops around town. Xtra! is
another weekly freebie; it lists events, seminars, and performances, particularly
those of interest to the gay and lesbian community. A free annual directory called
The Pink Pages targets Torontonians, but out-of-towners will find the information about gay- and lesbian-friendly restaurants, bars, and other businesses quite
useful. It’s available at shops, restaurants, and bars along Church Street.
Where Toronto is a glossy monthly magazine that lists events, attractions,
restaurants, and shops; it’s available free at most hotels in the city and at some
restaurants in the Theater District. Toronto Life is an award-winning lifestyle
magazine that has excellent listings of kids’ events, theater, speeches, and art
exhibitions; the April issue contains a dining guide. Toronto Life Fashion magazine will be of interest to serious shoppers.
Toronto.com (www.toronto.com), operated by the Toronto Star, offers extensive restaurant reviews, events listings, and feature articles. Toronto Life’s website
Underground Toronto
TTC Subway
ST. PATRICK
Enclosed Walkway
Simcoe St.
Walkway Outdoor
Connection
University Ave.
Future Walkway
Queen St. West
OSGOODE
Richmond St. West
Toronto
Hilton
Guardian of
Canada Tower
Adelaide St. West
King St. West
MetroCentre 225 King St.
West
Metro Hall
Sun Life
Centre
ST. ANDREW
National
Bank
Building
Sun Life Centre
Sun Life Tower
145 King St. W.
Roy ThomsonUniversity Ave.
Parking
Hall
55 University
200 Wellington
West
Wellington St. West
70 York
HSBC
CBC
Broadcast
Centre
Simcoe
Place
Metro Toronto
Convention Centre
SkyDome
CN Tower
SkyDome Hotel
Front St. West
Citibank Pl.
Crowne Plaza
Toronto Centre
CN SkyWalk
(www.torontolife.com) is another popular choice, particularly for its restaurant
reviews and contests. It includes events, shopping, and services listings.
CITY LAYOUT
Toronto is laid out in a grid . . . with a few interesting exceptions. Yonge Street
(pronounced Young) is the main north-south street, stretching from Lake
Ontario in the south well beyond Highway 401 in the north. Yonge Street
divides western cross streets from eastern cross streets. The main east-west artery
is Bloor Street, which cuts through the heart of downtown.
“Downtown” usually refers to the area from Eglinton Avenue south to the
lake, between Spadina Avenue in the west and Jarvis Street in the east. Because
this is such a large area, I have divided it into five sections. Downtown West
runs from the lake north to College Street; the eastern boundary is Yonge Street.
Downtown East goes from the lake north to Carlton Street (once College St.
reaches Yonge, it becomes Carlton St.); the western boundary is Yonge Street.
Metro
Toronto
Coach
Terminal
Atrium on Bay
DUNDAS
Marriott Hotel
Dundas St. East
One Dundas
West
Eaton's
Eaton Tower
Bell Trinity Square
City Hall
Parking
Richmond
Adelaide
Complex
130 Adelaide
St. West
Federal
Building
Toronto
Stock
Exchange
105 Adelaide
St. West
Bay St.
York St.
Thomson
Sheraton
Building
Centre Hotel
The Plaza at Sheraton Centre 390 Bay
The Lanes
Richmond
Adelaide
Centre
Eaton
Centre
Cadillac
Fairview
QUEEN
Queen St. East
Tower
One Queen
Bay
Company
The
Hudson's
Simpson
St. East
Tower
20 Richmond Richmond St. East
Yonge
Bay Adelaide
Richmond
Centre
Centre
Cambridge
Suites
Hotel Adelaide St. East
One
11 Adelaide W. 104 Yonge
Financial
100 Yonge
Place
Scotia Plaza
20 Victoria
4 King St.
The Bank of
25 Adelaide
West
Nova Scotia
Younge St.
City Hall
First Canadian Pl.
2 First
Canadian Pl. 1 First
Canadian Pl.
Toronto
West
North
Royal Trust Dominion
Standard
KING
Tower
Life Centre
Bank Pavilion
Toronto Dominion Centre
Commerce Court
Commercial Toronto
East
Ernst & Young TowerSouth
Union
Dominon
Design Exchange
Tower
Tower
North Tower BCE Place
Bay Wellington
95 Wellington
Labatt House
Tower
Aetna Tower
West
Royal Bank Plaza
The Galleria Heritage Sq.
Fairmont Royal York
22 Front St. Hockey Hall
South Tower Canada
Trust Tower West
of Fame
Union Station
UNION
VIA Rail Canada
GO Transit
King St. East
Wellington St. East
Front St. East
Harbourfront
Streetcar
Station
Lake Ontario
Midtown West extends from College Street north to Davenport Road; the eastern boundary is Yonge Street. Midtown East/The East End runs from Carlton
Street north to Davenport and farther east along Danforth Avenue; the western
boundary is Yonge Street. Uptown is the area north of Davenport Road.
In Downtown West, you’ll find many of the lakeshore attractions—Harbourfront, Ontario Place, Fort York, Exhibition Place, and the Toronto Islands. It
also boasts the CN Tower, City Hall, SkyDome, Chinatown, the Art Gallery, and
the Eaton Centre. Downtown East includes the St. Lawrence Market, the Hummingbird Centre, the St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts, and St. James Cathedral.
Midtown West contains the Royal Ontario Museum, the Gardiner Museum, the
University of Toronto, Markham Village, and chic Yorkville, a prime area for
browsing and dining alfresco. Midtown East/The East End features Riverdale
Farm, the historic Necropolis cemetery, and Greektown. Uptown has traditionally
been a residential area, but it’s now a fast-growing entertainment area, too. Its
attractions include the Sunnybrook park system and the Ontario Science Centre.
44
C H A P T E R 3 . G E T T I N G TO K N OW TO R O N TO
Underground Toronto
It is not enough to know the streets of Toronto; you also need to navigate the labyrinth of walkways beneath the pavement. If the
weather’s bad, you can eat, sleep, dance, shop, and go to the theater
without even donning a coat. Consult our map, “Underground
Toronto,” on p. 42, or look for the large, clear underground PATH
maps throughout the concourse.
You can walk from the Dundas subway station south through the
Eaton Centre until you hit Queen Street, turn west to the Sheraton
Centre, then head south. You’ll pass through the Richmond-Adelaide
Centre, First Canadian Place, and Toronto Dominion Centre, and go all
the way (through the dramatic Royal Bank Plaza) to Union Station. En
route, branches lead off to the stock exchange, Sun Life Centre, and
Metro Hall. Additional walkways link Simcoe Plaza to 200 Wellington
West and to the CBC Broadcast Centre. Other walkways run around
Bloor Street and Yonge Street and elsewhere in the city.
While its wide-ranging network makes this an excellent way to get
around the downtown core when the weather is grim, the underground city has its own attractions, too. First Canadian Place in particular is known for free lunch-hour lectures, opera and dance
performances, and art exhibits.
North Toronto is another burgeoning area, with theaters, such as the Toronto
Centre for the Arts, galleries, and some excellent dining. It’s not yet a prime
tourist destination, but it gets a few mentions throughout this guide.
Toronto sprawls so widely that quite a few of its primary attractions lie outside
the downtown core. They include the Toronto Zoo, Paramount Canada’s Wonderland, and the McMichael Canadian Art Collection. Be prepared to journey
somewhat.
FINDING AN ADDRESS This isn’t as easy as it should be. Your best bet is
to call ahead and ask for directions, including landmarks and subway stations.
Even the locals need to do this.
THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF
Downtown West
The Toronto Islands These three
islands in Lake Ontario—Ward’s,
Algonquin, and Centre—are home
to a handful of residents and no
cars. They’re a spring and summer
haven where Torontonians go to inline skate, bicycle, boat, and picnic.
Centre Island, the most visited,
holds the children’s theme park
Centreville. Catch the ferry at the
foot of Bay Street by Queens Quay.
Harbourfront/Lakefront The
landfill where the railroad yards and
dock facilities once stood is now a
glorious playground opening onto
the lake. This is home to the Harbourfront Centre, one of the most
important literary, artistic, and cultural venues in Canada.
Financial District Toronto’s major
banks and insurance companies have
their headquarters here, from Front
Street north to Queen Street,
THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF
between Yonge and York streets.
Toronto’s first skyscrapers rose here;
fortunately, some of the older structures have been preserved. Ultramodern BCE Place incorporated the
facade of a historic bank building
into its design.
Theater District An area of dense
cultural development, this neighborhood stretches from Front Street
north to Queen Street, and from
Bay Street west to Bathurst Street.
King Street West is home to most of
the important sights, including the
Royal Alexandra Theatre, the
Princess of Wales Theatre, Roy
Thomson Hall, and Metro Hall.
Farther south are the Convention
Centre and the CN Tower.
Chinatown Dundas Street West
from University Avenue to Spadina
Avenue, and north to College Street
are the boundaries of Chinatown. As
the Chinese community has grown,
it has extended along Dundas Street
and north along Spadina Avenue.
Here you’ll see a fascinating mixture
of old and new. Hole-in-the-wall
restaurants share the sidewalks with
glitzy shopping centers built with
Hong Kong money.
Queen Street West This stretch
from University Avenue to Bathurst
Street offers an eclectic mix—popular mainstream shops, funky boutiques, secondhand bookshops, and
vintage clothing emporiums. It’s
also home to Toronto’s gourmet
ghetto, with bistro after trattoria
after cafe lining the street. There’s
excellent food along this strip, but
it’s too frequently served with heaps
of attitude. Despite the intrusion of
mega-retailers, many independently
owned boutiques flourish.
West Queen West In the past,
Queen Street West was considered
edgy. Now, that appellation is
applied to West Queen West, which
starts at Bathurst Avenue and runs
45
west past Ossington Avenue. The
neighborhood is now known as one
of the coolest places in the city. It’s
full of interesting boutiques for
clothing, housewares, and antiques,
excellent small art galleries, and upand-coming restaurants.
Little Italy This thriving, lively
area, filled with open-air cafes, trattorias, and shops, serves the Italian
community along College Street
between Euclid and Shaw. The
trendies can’t seem to stay away,
which has driven up prices in this
once-inexpensive neighborhood.
Downtown East
Old Town/St. Lawrence Market
During the 19th century, this area,
east of Yonge Street between the
Esplanade and Adelaide Street, was
the focal point of the community.
Today the market’s still going strong,
and attractions like the glorious St.
James Cathedral draw visitors.
The Beaches Communal, youthful, safe, and comfortable—these
adjectives best describe the Beaches,
just 15 minutes from downtown at
the end of the Queen Street East
streetcar line. It was a summer
resort in the mid-1800s, and its
boardwalk and beach continue to
make it a casual, family-oriented
neighborhood.
Midtown West
Queen’s Park and the University
Home to the Ontario Legislature
and many of the colleges and buildings that make up the University of
Toronto, this neighborhood extends
from College Street to Bloor Street
between Spadina Avenue and Bay
Street.
Yorkville Originally a village outside the city, this area north and west
of Bloor and Yonge streets became
Toronto’s Haight-Ashbury in the
1960s. Now, it’s a haute district filled
with designer boutiques, galleries,
cafes, and restaurants.
46
The Annex This area fell into neglect for many years, but since the
early 1980s much of it has been
lovingly restored. It stretches from
Bedford Road to Bathurst Street,
and from Harbord Street to Dupont
Avenue. Many of the tremendous
turn-of-the-20th-century homes are
still single-family dwellings, though
as you walk west it segues into the
U of T student ghetto. Revered
urban-planning guru Jane Jacobs has
long called this area home.
Koreatown The bustling blocks
along Bloor Street West between
Bathurst and Christie streets are
filled with Korean restaurants, alternative-medicine practitioners such
as herbalists and acupuncturists,
and shops filled with made-in-Korea
merchandise. One of the first
Korean settlements in Toronto, it is
now primarily a business district.
Midtown East/The East End
Rosedale Meandering tree-lined
streets with elegant homes and
manicured lawns are the hallmarks
of this residential community, from
Yonge and Bloor streets northeast
to Castle Frank and the Moore Park
Ravine. Named after Sheriff Jarvis’s
residence, its name is synonymous
with Toronto’s wealthy elite.
Church Street Between Gerrard
Street and Bloor Street East along
Church Street lies the heart of
Toronto’s gay and lesbian community. Restaurants, cafes, and bars fill
this relaxed, casual neighborhood.
Church Street is where 19th-century
Toronto’s grandest cathedrals stood.
Cabbagetown Once described by
writer Hugh Garner as the largest
Anglo-Saxon slum in North America,
this gentrified neighborhood of
Victorian and Edwardian homes
stretches east of Parliament Street to
the Don Valley between Gerrard
Street and Bloor Street. The soughtafter residential district got its name
because the front lawns of the homes,
occupied by Irish immigrants (who
settled here in the late 1800s), were,
it is said, covered with row upon row
of cabbages. Riverdale, Toronto’s
only inner-city farm, is at the southeastern end of this district.
Greektown Across the Don Valley
Viaduct, Bloor Street becomes the
Danforth, which marks the beginning of Greektown. It’s lined with
old-style Greek tavernas and hip
Mediterranean bars and restaurants
that are crowded from early evening
until early morning. The densest
wining-and-dining area starts at
Broadview Avenue and runs 6 blocks
east.
Uptown
Forest Hill Second to Rosedale as
the city’s prime residential area,
Forest Hill is home to Upper
Canada College and Bishop Strachan School for girls. It stretches
west of Avenue Road between St.
Clair Avenue and Eglinton Avenue.
Eglinton Avenue The neighborhood surrounding the intersection
of Yonge Street and Eglinton
Avenue is jokingly known as
“Young and Eligible.” It’s a bustling
area filled with restaurants—
including some of the town’s
top-rated—and nightclubs. To the
east, it intersects with the 243hectare (600-acre) Sunnybrook
park system and with the Ontario
Science Centre.
2 Getting Around
BY PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION
The Toronto Transit Commission, or TTC (& 416/393-4636 for 24-hr. information; recordings available in 18 languages; www.city.toronto.on.ca/ttc), operates
the subway, bus, streetcar, and light rapid transit (LRT) system.
Allen Road
St. George
Museum
Queen’s Park
St. Patrick
Osgoode
St. Andrew
a Ter ua ens es S
mi y
t.
na
l
rk
St.
Sh
ay
Qu
Danforth Avenue
Ell
es
bo
ro
u
M gh C McC
o
e
me idla
nd ntre wan
re
Sc
ar
Lawrence East
.
St ark den dy
n
P ar
ne
ai
a
W Ken
M tori
c
Vi
k
e
d
s
rn ran ew
ne
oo ll
bi
nd w
ou le F dvi ter
s pe nla een xwe ood
t oa
e
s
Ca Br Ch Pa Do Gr Co W
b
er
s
n
ill
rio ie
M
n
sl
o
e
L
D
sa
s
Be
w
vie
y
Ba
Bloor-Yonge
Wellesley
College
Dundas
Queen
King
ion
Qu
ee
ns
Un
University
Avenue
Harbourfront-Spadina Queens Quay West
Sp
Q
ad
LRT
Yo
in
Q ue Re
Bloor Street
Summerhill
Spadina
Rosedale
Ba
y
St. Clair
Davisville
Eglinton
Lawrence
York Mills
Sheppard/Yonge
Yonge Street
Bloor-Danforth
Subway
Du
Ru
R
nd Lan
O
nn Hig
Isl oya O
B
a s D s
ym h
ing l Y ld
K s do uf sin Ch at
to or Mi Jan ed Par eel Wes wn feri gto risti hurs
n
n
e n
ll
k
e
e
k
e
t
t
e
Dupont
St. Clair West
Eglinton West
Glencairn
Lawrence West
Yorkdale
Wilson
Downsview
North York Centre
Finch
Yonge-University Subway
N
The TTC Subway System
Scarborough RT
Kipling
47
48
Fares, including transfers to buses or streetcars, are C$2.25 (US$1.60) or 10
tickets for C$19 (US$13) for adults. Students under 20 and seniors pay C$1.50
(US$1.05) or 10 tickets for C$13 (US$8.75), and children under 12 pay C50¢
(US35¢) or 10 tickets for C$4.25 (US$3). You can buy a special day pass for
C$7.75 (US$5.40) that’s good for unlimited travel for one person after 9:30am
on weekdays, and all day on weekends. There’s also a group pass for C$7.75
(US$5.40) that’s good for up to six people (a maximum of two adults) anytime
on Sunday and statutory holidays only. There are no multiple-day deals.
For surface transportation, you need a ticket, a token, or exact change. You
can buy tickets and tokens at subway entrances and at authorized stores that display the sign TTC TICKETS MAY BE PURCHASED HERE. Bus drivers do not sell tickets, nor will they make change. Always obtain a free transfer where you board the
train or bus, in case you need it. In the subways, use the push-button machine
just inside the entrance. On streetcars and buses, ask the driver for a transfer.
THE SUBWAY It’s fast (especially when you compare it to snarled surface traffic), clean, and very simple to use. There are two major lines—Bloor-Danforth
and Yonge-University-Spadina—and one smaller line, Sheppard, in the northern
part of the city. The Bloor Street east-west line runs from Kipling Avenue in the
west to Kennedy Road in the east (where it connects with Scarborough Rapid
Transit to Scarborough Centre and McCowan Rd.). The Yonge Street northsouth line runs from Finch Avenue in the north to Union Station (Front St.) in
the south. From there, it loops north along University Avenue and connects with
the Bloor line at the St. George station. A Spadina extension runs north from St.
George to Downsview station at Sheppard Avenue. The Sheppard line connects
only with the Yonge line at Sheppard Station, and runs east through north
Toronto for just 6km (4 miles).
The light rapid transit (LRT) system connects downtown to Harbourfront.
The fare is one ticket or token. It runs from Union Station along Queens Quay
to Spadina, with stops at Queens Quay ferry docks, York Street, Simcoe Street,
and Rees Street, then continues up Spadina to the Spadina subway station. The
transfer from the subway to the LRT (and vice versa) at Union Station is free.
The subway operates Monday to Saturday from 6am to 1:30am, and Sunday
from 9am to 1:30am. From 1am to 5:30am, the Blue Night Network operates
on basic surface routes. It runs about every 30 minutes. For route information,
pick up a “Ride Guide” at subway entrances or call & 416/393-4636. Multilingual information is available. You can also use the automated information
service at & 416/393-8663.
Smart commuters park their cars at subway terminal stations at Kipling,
Islington, Finch, Wilson, Warden, Kennedy, York Mills, Victoria Park, and
Keele. Certain conditions apply. Call & 416/393-8663 for details. You’ll have
to get there very early.
BUSES & STREETCARS Where the subway leaves off, buses and streetcars
take over. They run east-west and north-south along the city’s arteries. When
you pay your fare (on bus, streetcar, or subway), always pick up a transfer so that
you won’t have to pay again if you want to transfer to another mode of transportation. For complete TTC information, call & 416/393-4636.
BY TAXI
As usual, this is an expensive mode of transportation. It’s C$2.50 (US$1.75)
the minute you step in, and C25¢ (US15¢) for each additional 0.2km (about
GETTING AROUND
49
1
⁄ 4 mile). Fares can quickly mount up, especially during rush hours. You can hail
a cab on the street, find one in line in front of a big hotel, or call one of the
major companies—Diamond (& 416/366-6868), Royal (& 416/777-9222),
or Metro (& 416/504-8294). If you experience problems with cab service, call
the Metro Licensing Commission (& 416/392-3082).
BY CAR
Toronto is a rambling city, but that doesn’t mean that a car is the best way to get
around. Toronto has the dubious distinction of being recognized as the worst city
in Canada in which to drive. It has gotten so bad that the government has started
monitoring certain intersections with cameras. Driving can be a frustrating experience because of the high volume of traffic, drivers’ disregard for red lights, and
meager but pricey parking options. This is particularly true downtown, where
traffic inches along and parking lots are scarce. I strongly recommend that you
avoid driving in the city.
RENTAL CARS If you decide to rent a car, try to make arrangements in
advance. Companies with outlets at Pearson International Airport include Thrifty
(& 800/367-2277), Budget (& 800/527-0700), Avis (& 800/331-1084), Hertz
(& 800/654-3001), National (& 800/227-7368), and Enterprise (& 800/7368222). Keep in mind that there’s usually a steep fee when you rent a vehicle in one
city and drop it off in another. The rental fee depends on the type of car you want,
but the starting point is around C$45 (US$30) a day—not including the 15% in
sales taxes. This also does not include insurance; if you pay with a particular credit
card, you might get automatic coverage (check with your credit-card issuer before
you go). Be sure to read the fine print of the rental agreement—some companies
add conditions that will boost your bill if you don’t fulfill certain obligations, like
filling the gas tank before returning the car. Note: If you’re under 25, check with
the company—many will rent on a cash-only basis, some only with a credit card,
and others will not rent to you at all.
Car rental insurance probably does not cover liability if you cause an accident.
Check your own auto insurance policy, the rental company policy, and your
credit-card coverage for the extent of coverage: Is your destination covered? Are
other drivers covered? How much liability is covered if a passenger is injured? (If
you rely on your credit card for coverage, you may want to bring a second credit
card with you, as damages may be charged to your card and you may find yourself stranded with no money.)
PARKING Parking lots downtown run about C$4 to $6 (US$2.80–$4.20)
per half hour, with a C$16 to $20 (US$11–$14) maximum between 7am and
6pm. After 6pm and on Sunday, rates drop to around C$8 (US$5). Generally,
the city-owned lots, marked with a big green “P,” are slightly cheaper than private facilities. Observe the parking restrictions—otherwise the city will tow your
car away, and it’ll cost more than C$100 (US$70) to get it back.
DRIVING RULES A right turn at a red light is permitted after coming to a
full stop, unless posted otherwise. The driver and front-seat passengers must
wear seat belts; if you’re caught not wearing one, you’ll incur a substantial fine.
The speed limit in the city is 50kmph (30 mph). You must stop at pedestrian
crosswalks. If you are following a streetcar and it stops, you must stop well back
from the rear doors so passengers can exit easily and safely. (Where there are concrete safety islands in the middle of the street for streetcar stops, this rule does
not apply, but exercise care nonetheless.) Radar detectors are illegal.
50
BY FERRY
Toronto Parks and Recreation operates ferries that travel to the Toronto Islands.
Call & 416/392-8193 for schedules and information. Round-trip fares are C$5
(US$3.50) for adults, C$3 (US$2.10) for seniors and students 15 to 19 (with
valid ID), and C$2 (US$1.40) for children 14 and under.
FAST FACTS: Toronto
Area Code Toronto’s area codes are 416 and 647; outside the city, the
code is 905 or 289. You must dial all 10 digits for all local phone numbers.
Babysitting Hotel concierges can suggest reliable sitters if there aren’t
child-care facilities on site. In a pinch, call Care-on-Call (& 416/975-1313),
a 24-hour service.
Business Hours Banks are generally open Monday through Thursday from
10am to 3pm, Friday 10am to 6pm. Most stores are open Monday through
Wednesday from 10am to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to
5pm, with extended hours (until 8–9:30pm) on Thursday and usually Friday.
Currency Exchange Generally, the best place to exchange your currency is
at an ATM or bank. You can also change money at the airport, but at a less
favorable rate.
Dentists For emergency services from 8am till midnight, call the Dental
Emergency Service (& 416/485-7121). After midnight, your best bet is the
Toronto Hospital, 200 Elizabeth St. (& 416/340-3948). Otherwise, ask the
front-desk staff or concierge at your hotel.
Doctors The staff or concierge at your hotel should be able to help you
locate a doctor. You can also call the College of Physicians and Surgeons,
80 College St. (& 416/967-2600, ext. 626), for a referral between 9am to
5pm. See also “Emergencies,” below.
Electricity It’s the same as in the United States—110 volts, 50 cycles, AC.
Embassies/Consulates All embassies are in Ottawa, the national capital.
They include the Australian High Commission, 50 O’Connor St., Suite 710,
Ottawa, ON K1P 6L2 (& 613/236-0841); the British High Commission, 80
Elgin St., Ottawa, ON K1P 5K7 (& 613/237-1530); the Irish Embassy, 130
Albert St., Ottawa, ON K1P 5G4 (& 613/233-6281); the New Zealand High
Commission, 727–99 Bank St., Ottawa, ON K1P 6G3 (& 613/238-5991);
the South African High Commission, 15 Sussex Dr., Ottawa, ON K1M 1M8
(& 613/744-0330); and the U.S. Embassy, 100 Wellington St., Ottawa, ON K1P
5T1 (& 613/238-4470). Consulates in Toronto include Australian ConsulateGeneral, 175 Bloor St. E., Suite 314, at Church Street (& 416/323-1155);
British Consulate-General, 777 Bay St., Suite 2800, at College (& 416/5931290); and the U.S. Consulate, 360 University Ave. (& 416/595-1700).
Emergencies Call & 911 for fire, police, or ambulance. The Toronto General Hospital, 200 Elizabeth St., provides 24-hour emergency service
(& 416/340-3946 for emergency or 416/340-4611 for information). Also
see “Hospitals,” below.
Hospitals In the downtown core, go to Toronto General, 200 Elizabeth St.
(& 416/340-4611, or 416/340-3946 for emergency); St. Michael’s, 30 Bond
St. (& 416/360-4000, or 416/864-5094 for emergency); or Mount Sinai, 600
FA S T FA C T S : TO R O N TO
51
University Ave. (& 416/596-4200, or 416/586-5054 for emergency). Also
downtown is the Hospital for Sick Children, 555 University Ave. (& 416/
813-1500). Uptown, there’s Sunnybrook Hospital, 2075 Bayview Ave.,
north of Eglinton (& 416/480-6100, or 416/480-4207 for emergency). In
the eastern part of the city, go to Toronto East General Hospital, 825
Coxwell Ave. (& 416/461-8272, or 416/469-6435 for emergency).
Hot Lines Poison Information Centre (& 416/813-5900); Distress Centre suicide prevention line (& 416/598-1121); Rape Crisis Line (& 416/597-8808);
Assaulted Women’s Help Line (& 416/863-0511); AIDS & Sexual Health
InfoLine (& 800/668-2437); Toronto Prayer Line (& 416/929-1500). For kids
or teens in distress, there’s Kids Help Phone (& 800/668-6868).
Internet Access As in most other North American cities, the Web is a social
magnet in Toronto. Insomnia, 563 Bloor St. W. (& 416/588-3907), is more
social than your average Net cafe—maybe it’s the sign over the door that
reads THE INTERNET IS A STRANGE PLACE. DON’T SURF ALONE. There are several curtained computer terminals (C$10/US$7 per hr.), as well as comfortable
couches and a big-screen TV. The pizza and panini are usually pretty good.
Open daily from noon to 1am.
If you just want to surf fast and not hang out, look for a Kinko’s. There
are several in the city, but one sure bet is the location at 505 University
Ave. at Dundas (& 416/970-8447).
Laundry/Dry Cleaning Bloor Laundromat, 598 Bloor St. W., at Bathurst
Street (& 416/588-6600), is conveniently located. At the Laundry Lounge,
531 Yonge St., at Wellesley Street (& 416/975-4747), you can do your wash
while sipping a cappuccino and watching TV in the lounge. It’s open daily
from 7am to 11pm. Careful Hand Laundry & Dry Cleaners Ltd. has outlets at
195 Davenport Rd. (& 416/923-1200), 1415 Bathurst St. (& 416/530-1116),
and 1844 Avenue Rd. (& 416/787-6006); for pickup and delivery, call & 416/
787-6006.
Liquor Laws The minimum drinking age is 19. Drinking hours are daily
from 11am to 2am. The government is the only retail vendor. Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) stores sell liquor, wine, and some beers.
They’re open Monday through Saturday. Most are open from 10am to
6pm; some stay open evenings, and a few are open Sunday from noon to
5pm. One of the very best is at the Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. (& 416/
925-5266), which has longer hours than most, opening at 9:30am and closing at 9pm Monday through Saturday, and noon to 5pm on Sunday.
The Wine Rack has several locations, including 77 Wellesley St. E., at
Church (& 416/923-9393), and sells only Ontario wines. Most branches of
the Beer Store (also part of the LCBO) are open Monday through Saturday
from 10am to 8pm; there’s a downtown location at 614 Queen St. W.
(& 416/504-4665), near Bathurst.
Lost Property If you leave something on a bus, a streetcar, or the subway,
call the TTC Lost Articles Office (& 416/393-4100) at the Bay Street subway station. It’s open Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm.
Luggage Storage/Lockers Lockers are available at Union Station and at
the Eaton Centre.
52
Mail Postage for letters and postcards to the United States costs C65¢
(US45¢); overseas, C$1.05 (US75¢). Mailing letters and postcards within
Canada costs C48¢ (US35¢).
Postal services are available at convenience and drug stores. Almost all
sell stamps, and many have a separate counter where you can ship packages
from 8:30am to 5pm. Look for the sign in the window indicating such services. There are also post-office windows in Atrium on Bay (& 416/506-0911),
in Commerce Court (& 416/956-7452), and at the TD Centre (& 416/
360-7105).
Maps Free maps of Toronto are available in every terminal at Pearson International Airport (look for the Transport Canada Information Centre signs),
the Metropolitan Toronto Convention & Visitors Association at Harbourfront, and the Visitor Information Centre in the Eaton Centre, on Yonge
Street at Dundas Street. Convenience stores and bookstores sell a greater
variety of maps. Or try Canada Map Company, 63 Adelaide E., between
Yonge and Church streets (& 416/362-9297), or Open Air Books and Maps,
25 Toronto St., near Yonge and Adelaide streets (& 416/363-0719).
Newspapers & Magazines The four daily newspapers are the Globe and
Mail, the National Post, the Toronto Star, and the Toronto Sun. Eye and Now
are free arts-and-entertainment weeklies. Xtra! is a free weekly targeted at
the gay and lesbian community. In addition, many English-language ethnic
newspapers serve Toronto’s Portuguese, Hungarian, Italian, East Indian,
Korean, Chinese, and Caribbean communities. Toronto Life is the major
monthly city magazine; its sister publication is Toronto Life Fashion. Where
Toronto is usually free at hotels and some Theater District restaurants.
Pharmacies One big chain is Pharma Plus, which has a store at 63 Wellesley
St., at Church Street (& 416/924-7760). It’s open daily from 8am to midnight. Other Pharma Plus branches are in College Park, Manulife Centre,
Commerce Court, and First Canadian Place. The only 24-hour drugstore near
downtown is Shopper’s Drug Mart at 700 Bay St., at Gerrard Street West
(& 416/979-2424).
Police In a life-threatening emergency, call & 911. For all other matters,
contact the Metro police, 40 College St. (& 416/808-2222).
Post Office See “Mail,” above.
Radio The Canadian Broadcasting Corporation offers a great mix of intelligent discussion and commentary as well as drama and music. In Toronto,
the CBC broadcasts on 740AM and 94.1FM. CHIN (1540AM and 100.7FM)
will get you in touch with the ethnic and multicultural scene in the city; it
broadcasts in more than 30 languages.
Restrooms Finding a public restroom is usually not difficult. Most tourist
attractions have them, as do hotels, department stores, and public buildings. There are restrooms at major subway stations such as Yonge/Bloor,
but they are best avoided.
Safety As large cities go, Toronto is generally safe, but be alert and use
common sense, particularly at night. The Yonge/Bloor, Dundas, and Union
subway stations are favorites with pickpockets. In the downtown area,
Moss Park is considered one of the toughest areas to police. Avoid Allan
Gardens and other parks at night.
FA S T FA C T S : TO R O N TO
53
Taxes The provincial retail sales tax is 8%; on accommodations it’s 5%.
There is an additional 7% national goods-and-services tax (GST).
In general, nonresidents may apply for a tax refund. They can recover
the accommodations tax, the sales tax, and the GST for nondisposable
merchandise that will be exported for use, provided it is removed from
Canada within 60 days of purchase. The following do not qualify for
rebate: meals and restaurant charges, alcohol, tobacco, gas, car rentals,
and such services as dry cleaning and shoe repair.
The quickest and easiest way to secure the refund is to stop at a dutyfree shop at the border. You must have proper receipts with GST registration numbers. Or you can apply through the mail, but it will take about
4 weeks to receive your refund. For an application form and information,
you can contact Visitor Rebate Program, Canada Customs and Revenue
Agency, Ottawa, ON K1A 0L8 (fax 613/954-3577; www.ccra-adrc.gc.ca);
forms are also available at tourism kiosks around town. You can also contact Ontario Travel, Queen’s Park, Toronto, ON M7A 2R9 (& 800/668-2746
or 416/314-0944).
Taxis See “Getting Around,” earlier in this chapter.
Telephone A local call from a telephone booth costs C25¢ (US15¢). Watch
out for hotel surcharges on local and long-distance calls; often a local call
will cost at least C$1 (US70¢) from a hotel room. The United States and
Canada are on the same long-distance system. To make a long-distance
call between the United States and Canada, use the area codes as you
would at home. Canada’s international prefix is 1.
Time Toronto is on Eastern Standard Time. Daylight savings time is in
effect from April to October.
Tipping Basically it’s the same as in major U.S. cities: 15% in restaurants
(up to 20% in the finer spots), 10% to 15% for taxis, C$1 (US70¢) per bag
for porters, C$1 to C$2 (US70¢–$1.40) per day for hotel housekeepers
(more if you’re traveling with messy kids and/or pets).
Transit Information For information on the subway, bus, streetcar, and
light rapid transit (LRT) system, call the TTC at & 416/393-4636 or check
www.city.toronto.on.ca/ttc.
Weather Call the talking yellow pages (& 416/292-1010) for a current
weather report and lots of other information. Or check the Toronto Star’s
website, www.thestar.com.
4
Where to Stay
T
oronto has no shortage of hotels.
Whether you’re seeking old-world elegance in a historic building or looking
for all the conveniences of the office in
your home away from home, you’ll
find it here. Similarly you’ll find a
range that spans intimate boutique
inns to monolithic hotels.
Wherever you stay though, make
sure to get the best deal you can. Proximity to major attractions, such as the
Harbourfront Centre, SkyDome, and
the Eaton Centre, can cost a bundle.
Even budget hotels may charge more
than C$100 (US$70) a night in the
high season, which runs from April to
October. And remember to factor in
the 5% accommodations tax and the
7% GST into what you spend (note
that if you’re not a Canadian resident,
you can get a tax refund on the GST;
see “Fast Facts: Toronto” in chapter 3
for details).
There are some guidelines to keep in
mind when booking your accommodations. First, always ask for a discount
when you book your accommodations.
Even the most expensive luxury hotel
will reduce its rates during the low season and on weekends, and sometimes
simply because the hotel isn’t full. This
discount can be anywhere from 20% to
50%—after all, having a guest pay a
reduced rate is preferable to having an
empty room that generates no revenue.
Do not be shy—always ask for a
deal. If you belong to a group (such as
the military, seniors, students, or an
auto club), so much the better. You’ll
qualify for an instant discount as long
as you have appropriate ID. Members
of frequent flyer clubs may qualify for
discounts, room upgrades, or other
perks—if they ask for them. A hotel
may offer special packages, which
might include theater tickets, meals,
or museum passes with the cost of
your accommodations. At the risk of
sounding like a broken record, I will
say it again: Always ask for a deal.
When you make your reservations,
it’s important to keep in mind what
you’re planning to see and do. Toronto
is a vast metropolis, with attractions,
dining districts, and ethnic communities scattered throughout. Keep in
mind that you want to be as close as
possible to the sights that interest you
most.
I have grouped accommodations by
price and location. Most are in the
neighborhoods defined in chapter 3 as
Downtown West, Downtown East,
Midtown West, the East End, and
Uptown. I’ve also included a few
hotels to the east of the city and close
to Pearson International Airport.
TWO IMPORTANT NOTES ON
PRICES The prices quoted in this
chapter are rack rates; discounts can
knock the price down as much as
50%. The 5% accommodations tax
and the 7% GST are refunded to nonresidents upon application (see
“Taxes” under “Fast Facts: Toronto,”
in chapter 3).
A NOTE TO NONSMOKERS
Hotels that reserve floors for nonsmokers are now commonplace, so we don’t
single them out in this guide. However,
people who want a smoke-free room
should make that clear when making a
reservation. Rooms for smokers are
D OW N TOW N W E S T
concentrated on particular floors, and
the rooms and even the hallways in
those areas tend to smell strongly of
smoke, even in the cleanest hotels.
Never assume that you’ll get a smokefree room if you don’t specifically
request one.
BED-AND-BREAKFASTS A B&B
can be an excellent—and relatively
inexpensive—alternative to standard
hotel accommodations. Toronto Bed
& Breakfast, 253 College St., P.O. Box
269, Toronto, ON M5T 1R5 (& 877/
922-6522 or 416/588-8800; www.
torontobandb.com), has a list of 12
accommodations in the city. Doubles
cost roughly C$75 to $125 (US$52–
$88). The organization will make your
reservation and send you a confirmation. The Downtown Association of
Bed-and-Breakfast Guest Houses,
P.O. Box 190, Station B, Toronto, ON
55
M5T 2W1 (& 416/368-1420; www.
bnbinfo.com), lists only nonsmoking
B&Bs. Doubles range from C$70 to
$130 (US$49–$91). Bed and Breakfast Canada, P.O. Box 46093, College
Park Post Office, 44 Yonge St.,
Toronto, ON M5B 2L8 (& 416/3636362; www.bbcanada.com), has a very
long list of independent B&B operators. Doubles run from about C$65 to
$130 (US$45–$91).
ACCOMMODATIONS SERVICES
If you’re having trouble finding a
hotel, call Tourism Toronto (& 800/
363-1990 or 416/203-2600), for
advice and special deals.
FOR TRAVELERS IN NEED If
you run into trouble in Toronto and
you need a place to stay, call the Travellers Aid Society of Toronto (& 416/
366-7788). The organization provides
shelter for people in crisis situations.
1 Downtown West
VERY EXPENSIVE
Hilton Toronto
The Hilton Toronto isn’t what it used to be: With a gorgeous C$25 million (US$18 million) renovation completed in the spring of
2000, it became one of the most attractive hotels in the city. On the western edge
of the Financial District, the 32-story Hilton boasts generously sized rooms decorated with streamlined luxury in mind. Because of the hotel’s excellent location
overlooking the wide boulevard of University Avenue, many rooms (and the glass
elevators) have superb vistas. Because of its proximity to the Financial District,
the Hilton is a favorite among business travelers. Executive rooms include perks
such as an ultraplush terry bathrobe, a trouser press, and access to a private
lounge that serves complimentary breakfast and evening snacks.
The Hilton is more cutting-edge than you’d expect from a business hotel,
making it a sophisticated choice. The design of the grand foyer is dramatic, with
an illuminated canopy, floor lights and backlights, and copious use of glass.
There are photographic art exhibits on the public floors. Last but not least, as
part of its renovation, the Hilton unveiled the magnificent Tundra, which serves
top-notch Canadian cuisine (review on p. 86).
145 Richmond St. W., Toronto, ON M5H 2L2. & 800/445-8667 or 416/869-3456. Fax 416/869-1478. www.
hilton.com. 601 units. C$269–$449 (US$188–$314) double. Extra person C$22 (US$15). Children 18 and
under stay free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$22 (US$15). Subway:
Osgoode. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; indoor and outdoor lap pools; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s
programs; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Hôtel Le Germain
The Groupe Germain has become something of a
legend in Québec for its excellent boutique hotels. Their first Toronto venture has
been eagerly anticipated, and in spring 2003 it opened to instant accolades. Located
56
C H A P T E R 4 . W H E R E T O S TAY
in Toronto’s Entertainment District, the Hôtel Le Germain has an elegant but
slightly offbeat sensibility. Its design is edgier than what you’ll find in other Toronto
hotels. The public spaces are magnificent: The vast lobby manages the amazing
trick of being at once intimate and grand. The library lounge area boasts a fireplace,
an espresso maker, a wall of objets d’art, and cozy white couches. The breakfast
“room” on the second floor is like an expansive landing (there’s a staircase that leads
down from here to the lobby), and the tables are all communal. Attention is paid
to the smallest details, which explains why the elevators are “wrapped” in words of
English and French poetry, and why the corridors are so broad (the Groupe Germain built this hotel from scratch, so they could do exactly as they pleased).
The guest rooms are just as precise: The ceilings are high, the desk can be
moved around to your liking (it’s attached to the wall on one side), and the linens
and robes are by Frette. My favorite feature, though, is the glass wall in every
bathroom, which allows light in from the main room and makes everything feel
more spacious (there are blinds for those who want their privacy). All guests have
access to the exercise room on the 11th floor, which has floor-to-ceiling windows
and an open-air terrace. The hotel will also pair you up with a personal trainer or
arrange for an in-room massage for you (there are extra fees for these services).
30 Mercer St., Toronto, ON M. & 866/345-9501 or 416/345-9500. Fax 416/345-9501. www.germaintoronto.
com. 122 units. From C$225 (US$158) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$25 (US$17.50). Subway: St. Andrew.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
I’m a huge fan of the Metropolitan Hotel
(below), and so I’ve been anxiously awaiting the latest Toronto venture by this
small hotel group. This new boutique hotel—opened in April 2003—does not
disappoint. This is grown-up elegance at its most refined.
The guest rooms are beautiful: A serene palette of neutral tones and blond
wood make for a soothing setting. But more importantly, the SoHo Met’s rooms
make the best use of technology I’ve found in any Toronto hotel. It’s as if the
designers compiled a list of all of the most frustrating aspects about staying in a
hotel room and resolved to fix them. Hate hopping into bed and then discovering you have to jump out again to turn out a light? All of the lights in the room
can be controlled by switches right next to the headboard. Hate opening and
closing curtains and drapes? All it takes here is the flick of another switch. Even
better, another control will lower a privacy screen that lets light in but shields
you from view. The marble bathroom floor heats up at your command. The inroom safe is big enough for a laptop and has an outlet inside so you can charge
your computer battery. There are no tatty DO NOT DISTURB signs; instead,
another control panel lets you indicate your desire to be left alone or request
housekeeping as need be. And of course the telephones are cordless (it’s a small
thing but one I wish that other hotels would understand is important).
The SoHo Met is also home to one of Toronto’s best restaurants, Senses
(p. 90). It’s appropriately named, because all of your senses will be charmed by
this property. This is an excellent choice for business and leisure travelers; the
only people I wouldn’t recommend this property for are those with kids in tow,
as it’s a very glamorous spot for grown-ups.
SoHo Metropolitan Hotel
318 Wellington St. W., Toronto, ON M5V 3T4. & 800/668-6600 or 416/599-8800. Fax 416/599-8801. www.
metropolitan.com/soho. 86 units. From C$295 (US$207) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$15
(US$10.50), self-parking C$10 (US$7). Subway: St. Andrew. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club;
concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Where to Stay in Downtown West
St.
4
8
Wellington St. West
St.
East
9
Wellington St. East
Royal
Bank
11
Spadina
St.
Temperance St.
St.
York
Simcoe
Peter
Front St. West
Union Station
12
York
St.
CN Tower
SkyDome
St.
UNION
Convention
Centre
Yonge St.
10 Plaza
Bay
Ave.
ST. ANDREW
7
Old
City Hall
QUEEN
St.
St. East
First
Scotia
Canadian
Plaza
Place
King
St.
East KING
St.
John
6
King St. West
Adelaide
Bay
Nathan
Phillips
Square
Queen
Richmond
Duncan
St.
West
St.
St.
St.
DUNDAS
5
Adelaide
St.
2
City Hall
OSGOODE
West
Edward
St.
Hager m an
Osgoode
Hall
Elm St.
Bus
Terminal
Sheppard St.
Simcoe St.
University Ave.
3
St.
St.
St. Patrick St.
ST. PATRICK
West
1
McCaul St.
Spadina Ave.
Richmond
St.
N
Chestnut
West
Gerrard
Lake Ontario
Beverley
St.
TTC Subway
2
CHINATOWN
COLLEGE
area of detail
TORONTO
427
St.
401
GRANGE
PARK
Queen
College
St.
QUEEN'S PARK
Yonge
Delta Chelsea 1
Fairmont Royal York 10
Hilton Toronto 5
Holiday Inn on King 6
Hôtel Le Germain 8
Hotel Victoria 9
The Metropolitan Hotel 3
Radisson Plaza Hotel
Admiral
Baldwin
St.13
St.Renaissance
Andrews Toronto Hotel
St. at SkyDome 12
D’Arcy St.
The Sheraton Centre Toronto 4
SoHo Metropolitan Hotel 7
Dundas
St.
West
The Strathcona 11
Toronto Marriott Eaton Centre 2
Westin Harbour Castle 14
Gardiner Expressway
Queens Quay West
13
Maple Leaf Quays
John
Quay
14
HARBOURFRONT PARK
York Quay
N
0.25 km
Toronto Islands
ferry terminal
1/4 mi
0
0
2
Lake Ontario
Church
Post Office
TTC Subway
57
58
EXPENSIVE
Looming across from Union Station, Toronto’s
hub for rail travel, is the Fairmont Royal York, a historic hotel built by the Canadian-Pacific Railroad in 1929. Fairmont hotels across the country tend to the
gigantic, and this one is no exception, with 1,365 guest rooms and suites, and
35 meeting and banquet rooms.
The old-fashioned lobby is magnificent, and just sitting on a plush couch and
watching the crowd is an event. Still, you have to decide whether you want to
stay under the same roof with more than 1,000 others—business travelers, shoppers, tour groups, and particularly conventioneers. Service is remarkably efficient but necessarily impersonal; the downtown location, just steps from the
Entertainment District and the Hummingbird Centre, is excellent.
Guest rooms, though furnished with charming antique reproductions, are a
mixed bag. Some are reasonably airy, but there’s generally not much spare space.
If you’re willing to spring for a Fairmont Gold room, you’ll stay on a private floor
with superior, spacious rooms, separate check-in and concierge, a private lounge,
and complimentary breakfast (the extra cost is well worth it, in my opinion).
If you’re interested in pampering yourself, ask about special spa packages—
the Elizabeth Milan Day Spa, in the shopping arcade, is one of the best in the
city. Among the multitude of dining and drinking spots in the hotel, the don’tmiss ones are Epic (p. 88) and the Library Bar, which serves the best martinis in
the city.
In summer 2002, the Fairmont launched its ongoing VIP (Very Important Pets)
program: For an extra C$30 (US$21) per night, guests and their furry friends can
stay in a special “dog friendly” room that comes with toys, treats, and other amenities. (Part of the extra fee is donated to the Toronto Humane Society.)
The hotel pays particular attention to accessibility, making adaptations to
some guest rooms, so that they are specially designed for wheelchair users, the
hearing impaired, and the visually impaired. And Fairmont completed renovations in 2003 that made every public area in the hotel wheelchair-accessible.
Fairmont Royal York
100 Front St. W., Toronto, ON M5J 1E3. & 800/441-1414. Fax 416/368-9040. www.fairmont.com. 1,365
units. C$175–$370 (US$123–$259) double. Packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$26 (US$18).
Subway: Union. Pets accepted. Amenities: 5 restaurants; 4 bars/lounges; skylit indoor pool; health club; spa
(with special packages for guests); Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; shopping
arcade; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
One of the few major hotels in Toronto that
isn’t part of a large chain, the Metropolitan prides itself on offering a boutique
atmosphere (for the group’s new and genuine boutique hotel, see the SoHo Met
review above). The hotel caters to a business-oriented clientele, and it offers
many of the same features and amenities as its competitors at a comparatively
lower cost (which is not to say it’s inexpensive, just very competitive). Just off
Dundas Street West, the hotel is a 5-minute stroll north of the business district
and about 2 minutes west of the Eaton Centre. But why walk when you can take
advantage of the complimentary limo service to any downtown core address?
That perk is just one of the ways in which the Metropolitan attempts to compete with its pricier competitors. Rooms are well sized and furnished with comfort
in mind. The luxury and executive suites boast Jacuzzis, Dolby Surround Sound
televisions, and CD players. Many rooms also feature two-line cordless phones.
The two restaurants are huge draws. Lai Wah Heen (p. 89), which serves classic Cantonese cuisine, is a top choice for business entertaining with natives as
The Metropolitan Hotel
Where to Stay in Downtown East
1
COLLEGE
Gerrard
East
St.
St.
DUNDAS
St.
Jarvis
Church
St.
Yonge
Edward
St.
N
Elm St.
Bus
Terminal
ALLAN
GARDENS
3
TTC Subway
2
Lake Ontario
area of detail
TORONTO
427
Carlton St.
2
401
St.
St.
Sherbourne
College
Dundas St. East
St.
Hager m an
St.
QUEEN
Queen
St.
MOSS
PARK
St.
East
Richmond St. East
5
Temperance St.
East
Yonge St.
Bay
Union Station
St.
Royal
Bank
Plaza
Bond Place Hotel 4
Cambridge Suites Hotel 5
Courtyard Toronto Downtown 1
Days Inn & Conference Centre 2
Le Royal Meridien King Edward 7
Neill-Wycik College Hotel 3
Quality Hotel Downtown 6
Scott St.
Wellington St.
t
Fron
ast
St. E
Sherbourne
7
St.
OLD TOWN
KING
Jarvis
Scotia
Plaza
St.
Adelaide St. East
First
Canadian
Place
King St. East
UNION
6
Lombard St.
Market St.
Sheppard St.
Queen
Old
City
Hall
Church St.
Nathan
Phillips
Square
Shuter
Victoria
City
Hall
Bay
St.
St.
4
The Esplanade
0
1/4 mi
N
0
0.25 km
2
ast
E
.
d
v
l
B
e
r
Lakesho
s Quay
Queen
Church
East
Post Office
TTC Subway
59
Where to Stay in Midtown & Uptown
TORONTO
427
area of detail
D av e n
port Rd.
TTC Subway
2
DUPONT
Dupont St.
N
en
D av
po
Lake Ontario
Spadina Rd.
401
rt
Rd
Bedford Rd.
St. George St.
Huron St.
Brunswick Ave.
Spadina Rd.
Madison Ave.
Bernard Ave.
Lowther Ave.
THE ANNEX
Best Western Roehampton
Hotel & Suites 9
Four Seasons Hotel Toronto 4
Howard Johnson Selby
Hotel & Suites 8
Howard Johnson Yorkville 5
InterContinental Toronto 2
Park Hyatt Toronto 3
Quality Hotel Midtown 1
The Sutton Place Hotel 7
Victoria University 6
Pears
.
Prince Arthur
BATHURST
1
2
ST. GEORGE
Devonshire Pl.
SPADINA
Sussex Ave.
TTC Subway
60
Nassau St.
St. George St.
College Rd.
Huron St.
Oxford St.
C ircle
Spadina
Circle
Spadina Ave.
Brunswick Ave.
Bathurst St.
College St.
Willcocks St.
Hart
House
Circle
Co
g's ll
e
eg
Palmerston Blvd.
Ulster St.
Varsity
Stadium
Hoskin Ave.
Harbord St.
Kin
Bloor St. West
0
1/8 mile
N
0
100 meters
Pricefield Rd.
9
Mac Pherson Ave.
Chestnut Pk.
Roxborough St. West
Roxborough St. East
ROSEDALE
Ave.
Pears
A
Crescent Rd.
v e.
Ave.
Ro
Berryman St.
Ave.
Bay St.
4
Yorkville Ave.
Cumberland St.
k
r
Pa
ch
Rd
.
Vall
ey R
ur
Scollard St.
le
Ch
YORKVILLE
da
S t.
d.
SHERBOURNE
3
Bloor St. East
BLOOR-YONGE
St.
BAY
M ount Pleasant Rd.
se
Yonge St.
5
Hazelton
Avenue Rd.
ROSEDALE
8
Sultan St.
Hayden St.
St.
Charles St.
Irwi
n Av
e.
Gloucester St.
QUEEN’SS
QUEEN
PARK
Dundonald St.
7
Wellesley St. West
Bay St.
WELLESLEY
Wellesley St. East
Alexander St.
Grenville St.
College St.
QUEEN'S PARK
COLLEGE
Wood St.
MAPLE LEAF
GARDENS
Jarvis St.
Maitland St.
Church St.
Queen’s Park Cr. East
Queen’s Park Cr. West
Isabella St.
Jarvis St.
St. Marys St.
Yonge St.
6 Charles
St. Thomas
Queen’s Park
MUSEUM
Carlton St.
ALLAN
GARDENS
Gerrard St. West
Gerrard St. East
61
62
well as visitors. The modern-style ground-floor Hemispheres restaurant offers a
Continental menu. Also, the Metropolitan has a partnership with the Toronto
Symphony Orchestra, which offers guests special packages.
108 Chestnut St., Toronto, ON M5G 1R3. & 416/977-5000. Fax 416/977-9513. www.metropolitan.com. 425
units. C$280–$310 (US$196–$217) double. Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC,
MC, V. Valet parking C$24 (US$17), self-parking C$19 (US$13). Subway: St. Patrick. Amenities: 2 restaurants;
bar; indoor pool; health club; sauna; Jacuzzi; concierge; courtesy limo; 24-hr. business center (w/PCs and
Macs); limited room service; massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV,
dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
While not exactly small, the Radisson has
an intimate, clubby feel. It overlooks Lake Ontario and is steps from the Harbourfront Centre. Its location can be seen as a big plus or a big minus. On the
one hand, guests have beautiful lakefront vistas, as well as close access to one of
Canada’s premier arts centers and to the Toronto Islands. But this area of town
can feel completely desolate at night. Toronto’s waterfront, south of the hideous
Gardiner Expressway, is woefully underdeveloped, making it a must to travel
northward to seek good food, shopping, and entertainment. If your primary
concern is location, this probably isn’t the hotel for you.
What the Radisson does well is exploit its location for those who want to feel
that they’re getting away from the city without actually leaving it. This works
especially well in summer. Its nautical-theme decor includes lacquered wood and
gleaming brass in the lobby, with oil paintings of marine scenes littering the
walls. The rooms are generally not large, but they are nicely appointed and boast
floor-to-ceiling windows. Lakefront rooms offer superb views, and all guests can
enjoy the sights (and a dip in the outdoor pool) on the roof deck.
Radisson Plaza Hotel Admiral
249 Queens Quay W., Toronto, ON M5J 2N5. & 800/333-3333 or 416/203-3333. Fax 416/203-3100. www.
radisson.com/torontoca_admiral. 157 units. C$189–$299 (US$132–$209) double. Extra person C$20
(US$14). Weekend packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$18 (US$12). Subway: Union, then LRT
to Rees St. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; outdoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; concierge; business center; 24-hr.
room service; laundry service. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
A while ago, I was traveling and
met a woman who had just visited Toronto. I asked where she’d stayed, and she
told me that it was at “that hotel where they filmed people having sex and put
it on a big screen.” This is that hotel. It’s a dream come true for diehard baseball
fans—70 rooms overlook the diamond’s verdant Astroturf. Unfortunately, those
who enjoy the view should remember that it goes both ways: Just after it opened,
the hotel became notorious when the amorous antics of a pair of guests ended
up on the JumboTron (the giant screen that’s supposed to be showing the onfield action). The incident is now a minor local legend. The lesson: All rooms
have shades—remember to use them.
The hotel finished a C$10 million (US$7 million) renovation and refurbishment in 2001. The guest rooms are pretty much all a good size, but there’s a definite pecking order: Rooms that face the city are the least expensive, with
uninspiring views. Still, this is a strong contender as a tourist hotel—it’s in a
great location for theater, dining, and sights.
Renaissance Toronto Hotel at SkyDome
1 Blue Jays Way, Toronto, ON M5V 1J4. & 800/237-1512 or 416/341-7100. Fax 416/341-5091. www.
renaissancehotels.com/yyzbr. 348 units. City view from C$189 (US$132) double; field side from C$305
(US$214) double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$18 (US$12). Subway: Union. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
indoor pool; squash courts; health club; sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; same-day
laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
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The Sheraton Centre Toronto
A convention favorite, the SheraKids
ton is across the street from New City Hall, a block from the Eaton Centre, and
a short stroll from the trendy restaurant and boutique area of Queen Street West.
It’s entirely possible to stay here and never venture outside—the Sheraton complex includes restaurants, bars, and a cinema, and the building connects to
Toronto’s fabled underground city. If you long for a patch of green, the hotel
provides that, too: The south side of the lobby contains a manicured garden with
a waterfall. Am I making the place sound like a monolith? Well, it is. But it’s an
excellent home base for families because of its location and extensive list of
child-friendly features, including a children’s center and huge pool.
Most of the guest rooms in this skyscraper-heavy neighborhood lack a serious
view, though as you near the top of the 46-story complex, the sights are inspiring indeed. Designed for business travelers, Club Level rooms were renovated in
2001; they contain mini business centers with a fax/printer/copier and two-line
speakerphone.
123 Queen St. W., Toronto, ON M5H 2M9. & 800/325-3535 or 416/361-1000. Fax 416/947-4854. www.
sheratoncentretoronto.com. 1,377 units. C$260–$295 (US$182–$207) double. Extra person C$20 (US$14).
2 children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$28 (US$20).
Subway: Osgoode. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; gigantic heated indoor/outdoor pool; health club; sauna;
spa; Jacuzzi; children’s center; concierge; activities desk; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Attention, shoppers: Those who want
proximity to Toronto’s central shrine to commerce should seriously consider
checking in here. Connected to the Eaton Centre, the Marriott is just a few
minutes’ walk from the financial and theater districts, Chinatown, and SkyDome. This hotel caters to the tourist crowd: While a good concierge at any
hotel can point you in the direction of, say, a hot restaurant, the Marriott has
desks set up to facilitate day-trip planning and other activities. Because of its
unmatched location, this is an excellent choice for determined sightseers. One
caveat is that the area immediately surrounding the Eaton Centre veers toward
the grungy and depressing; it isn’t dangerous, but it is pickpocket heaven.
Most of the Marriott’s guest rooms are well sized—all the better to store your
loot. The views from many of the rooms aren’t the best, because you’ll find office
towers in all directions. A pleasant surprise is the view of the beautiful 19th-century
Holy Trinity Church from the Parkside restaurant.
Toronto Marriott Eaton Centre
525 Bay St. (at Dundas St.),Toronto, ON M5G 2L2. & 800/905-0667 or 416/597-9200. Fax 416/597-9211. www.
marriotteatoncentre.com. 459 units. C$189–$239 (US$132–$167) double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$16
(US$11). Subway: Dundas. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; indoor rooftop pool; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna;
concierge; activities desk; car-rental desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; same-day laundry service and dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Westin Harbour Castle
A popular spot for conventions, the Westin is on
the lakefront, just across from the Toronto Islands ferry docks and down the
road from the Harbourfront Centre and Queens Quay. Not surprisingly, the
views are among the best in the city. The trade-off is that, like the nearby Radisson Plaza Hotel Admiral, this hotel is somewhat out of the way. It’s a 5-minute
walk to Union Station, but to get there you have to cross under the Gardiner
Expressway, one of the ugliest and most desolate patches of the city. The hotel
tries to get around this difficulty with shuttle bus service; there’s also a publictransit stop and a queue of cabs at the hotel. But it’s unlikely you’ll want to go
for an evening stroll around here.
64
Perhaps recognizing the lack of things to do in the vicinity, management has
populated the hotel with attractions. The dining options are extremely fine: The
excellent restaurant, Toula, attracts Toronto residents as well as visitors in droves.
There are also terrific sports facilities, giving this monolithic hotel the feel of a
resort. Who needs to go outside anyway?
1 Harbour Sq., Toronto, ON M5J 1A6. & 800/WESTIN-1 or 416/869-1600. Fax 416/361-7448. www.westin.
com/harbourcastle. 977 units. C$180–$360 (US$126–$252) double; from C$335 (US$235) suite. Extra person
C$30 (US$21). Children stay free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$25
(US$18). Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor pool; 2 tennis
courts; 2 squash courts; excellent health club; spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s center; concierge; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker,
hair dryer, iron.
MODERATE
While not a budget hotel, the Delta Chelsea
Kids Value
offers bang for the buck. Its downtown location draws heaps of tour groups and
a smattering of business travelers, its family-friendly facilities lure those with
tykes, and its weekend packages capture the cost-conscious. It’s impossible for a
hotel to be all things to all people, but the Delta Chelsea comes pretty close.
Luxury seekers should look elsewhere, and backpackers won’t be able to afford
it, but the Delta Chelsea is talented at meeting the needs of everyone in between.
The Delta Chelsea celebrated its 25th anniversary in 2000, when it opened
Bb33 Bistro and Brasserie, a two-in-one restaurant with a formal dining room
and a fuss-free buffet room. The guest rooms, many of which were renovated in
2001, are as bright and cheery as ever; a few have kitchenettes. On the Signature
Club floor for business travelers, rooms have cordless speakerphones, faxes, wellstocked desks, and ergonomic chairs.
One special feature of the Delta Chelsea is its entertainment department. The
hotel has partnerships with CanStage, Soupepper Theatre, the CN Tower, and
the Canadian National Exhibition, to mention a few. Guests enjoy access to
tickets for everything from blockbuster shows to special events.
Delta Chelsea
33 Gerrard St. W., Toronto, ON M5G 1Z4. & 800/243-5732 or 416/595-1975. Fax 416/585-4362. www.delta
hotels.com. 1,590 units. C$129–$340 (US$90–$238) double; C$149–$360 (US$104–$252) deluxe double;
C$195–$380 (US$137–$266) Signature Club double (business floor); from C$475 (US$333) suite. Extra person C$20 (US$14). Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC,
DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$26 (US$18); self-parking C$21 (US$15; parking available only to 575 cars). Subway: College. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 3 bars; 2 pools (1 for adults only); health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s center; billiards room; concierge; activities desk; business center; salon; babysitting; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
The blinding-white facade of this building suggests
that some architect mistook Toronto for the tropics. No matter—its location is
hot, with the Theater District, gourmet ghetto, Chinatown, and SkyDome
nearby (in fact, its location is better than that of any other hotel in this price category except the Delta Chelsea). It’s also close to the Financial District, which
explains the mix of business travelers and vacationers. Half the floors are office
space; guest rooms start at the 9th floor and go up to the 20th. The good-sized,
pastel-colored rooms are vintage Holiday Inn.
Holiday Inn on King
370 King St. W. (at Peter St.), Toronto, ON M5V 1J9. & 800/263-6364 or 416/599-4000. Fax 416/599-7394.
www.hiok.com. 431 units. C$179–$319 (US$125–$223) double. Extra person C$15 (US$11). AE, DISC, MC, V.
Parking C$18 (US$12). Subway: St. Andrew. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small outdoor pool;
health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; limited room service; massage. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer.
D OW N TOW N E A S T
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INEXPENSIVE
Hotel Victoria In a landmark downtown building near the Hummingbird
Centre and the Hockey Hall of Fame, the Victoria boasts the glamorous touches
of an earlier age, such as crown moldings and marble columns in the lobby. It’s
Toronto’s second-oldest hotel (built in 1909), but all of the guest rooms underwent a complete renovation in 2000, and the facilities are upgraded yearly. Because
of its small size, the 48-room hotel offers an unusually high level of personal
service and attention, which you normally wouldn’t expect in a budget accommodation; the staff is fluent in several languages. Standard rooms are on the small side
but are nicely put together; deluxe rooms are larger and have coffeemakers and
minifridges.
56 Yonge St. (at Wellington St.), Toronto, ON M5E 1G5. & 800/363-8228 or 416/363-1666. Fax 416/3637327. www.hotelvictoria-toronto.com. 48 units. C$129–$169 (US$90–$118) double. Extra person C$15
(US$11). Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$20 (US$14). Subway: King. Amenities:
Restaurant; access to nearby health club; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport,
hair dryer, iron.
The Strathcona has a unique status: It’s pretty much
Value
the only budget hotel in the Financial District, and for years it has been one of the
best buys in the city. It sits in the shadow of the Royal York, making this hotel a
short walk from all major downtown attractions. If you want to be in this neighborhood but don’t want to pay a bundle, this is your best option. The trade-offs
aren’t as extensive as you might think. The Strathcona’s rooms may be on the small
side, but they are designed with efficiency in mind. The hotel doesn’t have a health
club, but guests have access to the nearby Wellington Club for a C$10 (US$7) fee.
The Strathcona
60 York St.,Toronto, ON M5J 1S8. & 800/268-8304 or 416/363-3321. Fax 416/363-4679. www.thestrathcona
hotel.com. 193 units. May–Oct C$129–$179 (US$90–$125) double; Nov–Apr C$109–$139 (US$76–$97) double.AE, DC, MC,V. Parking nearby C$20 (US$14). Subway: Union. Amenities: Cafe; bar; access to nearby health
club; bike rental; children’s center; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; babysitting; limited room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, iron.
2 Downtown East
VERY EXPENSIVE
This hotel has three main selling points: location, location, and location. Sitting on the edge of the Financial District, it caters
to a corporate crowd that never wants to be more than a few steps from the office.
Of course there are other drawing cards, such as the fact that all units are suites.
The emphasis is on luxury, and the Cambridge succeeds in making its point.
The suites start at a generous 550 square feet and move up to deluxe duplexes.
(In fact, the Jacuzzi-outfitted penthouse suites have come to the attention of
celebrities tired of Toronto’s tried-and-true star-catering hotels; the views are
breathtaking.) The amenities for business travelers are solid. If you can drag
yourself away from the comfy desk area, which has two two-line telephones and
a fax, you can enjoy some of the comforts of home: refrigerator, microwave, and
dining ware, plus coffee, tea, and snacks. And if you hand over your shopping
list, the staff will stock the fridge, too.
Cambridge Suites Hotel
15 Richmond St. E. (near Yonge St.), Toronto, ON M5C 1N2. & 800/463-1990 or 416/368-1990. Fax
416/601-3751. www.cambridgesuiteshotel.com. 231 units. From C$219 (US$153). Rates include continental
breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$20 (US$14). Subway: Queen. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small
health club (and access to much larger health club nearby); Jacuzzi; sauna; spa; concierge; business center;
limited room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, fridge,
coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
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At one time, the King Eddy
was the only place in Toronto that Hollywood royalty like Liz Taylor and Richard
Burton would consider staying. In the 1980s, after many years of neglect, a group
of local investors spent C$40 million (US$28 million) to rescue it. The result
recalls its former glory, with rosy marble columns and a glass-domed rotunda
dominating the lobby. The sense of grandeur carries into the accommodations.
Not every room is spacious in terms of square footage, but their uniformly high
ceilings give them a sweeping grandeur that is rare to find. The rooms are also
charmingly appointed; unlike those at many competitors, where you’d be hardpressed to tell the difference between one room and the next, these guest rooms
have been decorated with a personal touch. The bathrooms are particularly nice,
with generously proportioned marble tubs.
The formal dining room, Café Victoria, wins solid reviews for its cooking. This
is one of the most glamorous settings in the city, and its astonishing Edwardian
beauty is the reason the hotel wasn’t torn down in the 1970s. Just off the lobby is
a mirrored lounge that serves a traditional English afternoon tea; I highly recommend partaking in this delicious pastime whether or not you’re a guest in the hotel
(if you do, try the Lady Grey tea—it’s irresistible). The wood-paneled Consort
Bar is wonderfully clubby, and its 2.5m-high (8-ft.) windows afford fun peoplewatching while you sip a champagne cocktail. It’s got a surprising long menu,
which includes everything from crispy calamari to thin-crust pizzas.
Le Royal Meridien King Edward Hotel
37 King St. E., Toronto, ON M5C 2E9. & 800/543-4300 or 416/863-3131. Fax 416/367-5515. www.lemeridienkingedward.com. 294 units. C$375–$450 (US$263–$315) double; from C$800 (US$560) suite. Children 12 and
Kids Family-Friendly Hotels
Delta Chelsea (p. 64) This is a perennial family favorite—with good
cause. In March 2003, the hotel opened the Family Fun Zone, a multiroom play area with live bunnies and fish, a video arcade, and the only
waterslide in downtown Toronto. You can play together in the family
pool here or drop off the tyke for babysitting. Kids will enjoy the inroom family movies, Super Nintendo, cookie jar (replenished daily), and
nightly turndown gift. Further reducing the strain on the family purse,
kids have a half-price menu at some of the Delta Chelsea’s restaurants.
Four Seasons Hotel Toronto (p. 68) A hop and a skip from the Royal
Ontario Museum, this hotel has its own attractions. There are free bicycles and video games for borrowing, and an indoor-outdoor pool.
Upon arrival, room service brings the kids complimentary cookies and
milk. The concierge and housekeeping staff work magic, including
conjuring up excellent babysitting services.
The Sheraton Centre Toronto (p. 63) The endless attractions of this
complex—including restaurants with special menus for tykes, and a
cinema—mean there’s a lot to keep the kiddies entertained. There’s a
supervised play center as well as on-call babysitting services. Kids also
enjoy in-room video games and a welcome gift. There are a limited
number of Family Guest Rooms, which boast a toy chest, some kiddiesize furniture, a fridge and a microwave.
67
under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$26 (US$18). Subway: King. Pets accepted. Amenities:
2 restaurants; bar; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; 24-hr. room service, babysitting; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron.
MODERATE
The location is right—a block from the Eaton Centre,
around the corner from the Pantages and Elgin theaters—and so is the price.
Perhaps that’s why this hotel tends to be popular with tour groups. (The fact
that the staff speaks several European and Asian languages doesn’t hurt, either.)
The rooms are on the small side, but all were freshened up in a 2002 renovation
and refurbishment.
Bond Place Hotel
65 Dundas St. E., Toronto, ON M5B 2G8. & 800/268-9390 or 416/362-6061. Fax 416/360-6406. www.bond
placehoteltoronto.com. 287 units. High season C$140 (US$98) single or double; low season C$79 (US$55)
single or double. Extra person C$15 (US$11). Weekend packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$12
(US$8.40). Subway: Dundas. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; limited room
service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, iron.
Anyone who knows the Marriott chain
of hotels knows that their Courtyard hotels are usually out of the city center, not
smack-dab in the middle of things. Here’s one exception: Marriott has taken on
an over-the-hill property near Yonge & College (the former Westbury Hotel),
stripped it down to its skeleton, and built it back up as a bright and shiny Courtyard by Marriott in 1999. The result is exactly what this neighborhood needed.
The location is equally convenient to the Financial District downtown and the
chic cafes and shops of Midtown—a claim few other hotels in the city can make.
The lobby with its double-sided fireplace has a surprisingly intimate feel given
the size of the hotel (truth be told, there’s actually a separate reception area for
tour groups, and that’s why). The guest rooms don’t tend to be big, but they do
have a lot of comforts, including windows that open, high-speed Internet access
ports, and a second sink outside of the bathroom. Like all Marriott hotels, there
is an ongoing refurbishment program here, so the guest rooms tend to look fresh
rather than lived-in. While Courtyards are generally regarded as business hotels,
this one has family-friendly facilities such as a children’s wading pool.
Courtyard Toronto Downtown
475 College St., Toronto, ON M4Y 1X7. & 800/847-5075 or 416/924-0611. Fax 416/924-8692. www.courtyard.
com/yyzcy. 575 units. C$149 (US$104) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking C$20 (US$14), self-parking C$15
(US$10.50). Subway: College. Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; health club; tour desk; business center; limited room
service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Days Inn & Conference Centre Toronto Downtown Now that Maple
Leaf Gardens is semi-retired (hockey has moved to the Air Canada Centre), the
Days Inn’s location isn’t what it used to be. Still, this hotel isn’t far from the
downtown core, and its reasonable rates continue to draw business, particularly
with those traveling for leisure (and on a budget). Also, extensive renovations in
2000 and ongoing improvements through 2002 have really spruced up both the
public areas and the guest rooms.
30 Carlton St., Toronto, ON M5B 2E9. & 800/329-7466 or 416/977-6655. Fax 416/977-0502. www.daysinn.
com. 536 units. C$99–$169 (US$69–$118) double. Extra person C$15 (US$11). Children 17 and under stay
free in parent’s room. Summer discounts available. AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$15 (US$11). Subway: College.
Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; sauna; concierge; tour desk; car-rental desk; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
INEXPENSIVE
Neill-Wycik College Hotel During the school year, this is a residence for
nearby Ryerson Polytechnic University. Some students work here in the summer,
68
when the Neill-Wycik morphs into a guesthouse. Travelers on tight budgets
won’t mind the minimalist approach—rooms have beds, chairs, desks, and
phones, but no air-conditioning or TVs (although there is a TV lounge). Groups
of five bedrooms share two bathrooms and one kitchen with a refrigerator and
stove. The hotel has two roof decks, on the 5th and 23rd floors. It’s less than a
5-minute walk to the Eaton Centre. The neighborhood is not as appealing as
that around Victoria University at the University of Toronto, which offers a similar arrangement (p. 71).
96 Gerrard St. E. (between Church and Jarvis sts.), Toronto, ON M5B 1G7. & 800/268-4358 or 416/9772320. Fax 416/977-2809. www.neill-wycik.com. 300 units (none w/private bathroom). C$61 (US$42) double;
C$70 (US$49) family (2 adults plus children). MC, V. Closed Sept–early May. Limited parking nearby C$10
(US$7). Subway: College. Amenities: Cafe; sauna; 24-hr. coin-op laundry.
Quality Hotel Downtown Close to the Financial District and the Eaton Centre, this hotel always seems to be running a special promotion, so be sure to ask
for a deal. Rooms tend to be small, though they do have all the standard amenities. This is basically a no-frills hotel whose main selling point is its location.
111 Lombard St. (between Adelaide and Richmond sts.),Toronto, ON M5C 2T9. & 800/4-CHOICE or 416/3675555. Fax 416/367-3470. www.choicehotels.ca/cn311. 196 units. C$109–$209 (US$76–$146) double. Rates
include continental breakfast buffet. Children 18 and under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Parking C$16 (US$11). Subway: King or Queen. Amenities: Health club; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room:
A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
3 Midtown West
VERY EXPENSIVE
The Four Seasons is famous as the
Kids
favored haunt of many visiting celebrities. The Rolling Stones call it home in
Toronto, and during the Toronto International Film Festival every September
you can’t get in here for love or money. The hotel, in the ritzy Yorkville district,
has earned a reputation for offering fine service and complete comfort. While
not even close to being the largest hotel in the city, the building—with its myriad ballrooms, meeting rooms, and restaurants—is monolithic. It’s easy to get
lost inside (I’ve done it myself ).
Even if you do get lost, it’s an interesting place. The public areas are decorated
like a French parlor, with marble floors and dramatic floral arrangements. Once
you make it to your room, you’ll find that while it may tend to be on the small
side (a standard model is only about 325 sq. ft.), it’s well designed and easy on
the eye. Corner rooms have charming balconies—all the better to appreciate
street scenes. The formal dining room, Truffles, is a Toronto institution (p. 101).
The second-floor Studio Cafe is a favorite with the business crowd; its menu features many health-conscious, low-fat dishes. The Avenue bar is a perfect perch
for people-watching—it overlooks Yorkville Avenue.
Four Seasons Hotel Toronto
21 Avenue Rd., Toronto, ON M5R 2G1. & 800/268-6282 or 416/964-0411. Fax 416/964-2301. www.four
seasons.com. 380 units. C$305–$440 (US$214–$308) double; from C$485 (US$340) suite. Weekend discounts
and packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$25 (US$18). Subway: Bay. Amenities: 2 restaurants;
2 bars/lounges; indoor/outdoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; bike rental; concierge; weekday courtesy limo to
downtown; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.
InterContinental Toronto
Just a little west of its higher-profile competitors
the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons, the InterContinental is less than a
5-minute walk from the Royal Ontario Museum, the Bata Shoe Museum, and
M I D TOW N W E S T
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Yorkville, one of the best shopping districts in the city. It’s a favorite with business
travelers, who appreciate its attentive, personalized service. The atmosphere is
exclusive but low-key. It doesn’t get the starry crowd that its rivals draw, either, and
that can be a blessing (anyone who has witnessed some of the weird behavior of
the stars will know exactly what I mean). The building looks nondescript from the
street, but inside, abundant European and Art Deco details give it character. The
spacious guest rooms contain stylish love seats and roomy desks. The focus
throughout the hotel is on business, from room design to the extensive business
center to the Signatures restaurant, which is perfect for entertaining.
220 Bloor St. W., Toronto, ON M5S 1T8. & 800/267-0010 or 416/960-5200. Fax 416/960-8269. www.
toronto.intercontinental.com. 210 units. C$275–$400 (US$193–$280) double. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$27
(US$19). Subway: St. George. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; health club; sauna; concierge; tour
desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/VCR, fax, dataport, minibar, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
With its ongoing C$60 million (US$42 million)
renovations, the Park Hyatt has cemented its reputation for being the last word
in luxe. It is, in my opinion, the very best hotel in Toronto at the moment, and
it’s where I’d choose to stay if price were no object (though both of the new boutique accommodations—the Hôtel Le Germain and the SoHo Metropolitan—
are very tempting, too).
The location of the Park Hyatt is prime: It’s in the posh Yorkville district,
steps from the Royal Ontario Museum and the Bata Shoe Museum. Chicagobased Hyatt has renovated nearly every corner of the 71-year-old Art Deco
building. The biggest change was the building of the North Tower, which is
entirely new but designed to match the original structure (which is now known
as the South Tower). The guest rooms in the North Tower are among the most
generously proportioned in town—the smallest is 500 square feet. An extensive
renovation and refurbishment of the South Tower was completed in 2003; here,
the guest rooms are smaller, but they are more individual—there are 90 rooms
and 40 different room layouts. All rooms in both towers have free high-speed
Internet access.
A glamorous lobby dotted with Eastern-inspired objets d’art links the North
and South towers. The ground-floor restaurant Annona (p. 101) is a treat for
gourmets. While the Park Hyatt’s neighbor, the Four Seasons, has for years been
luring the glitterati, while the Park Hyatt prides itself on luring the literati. The
18th-floor Roof Lounge is famous for attracting writers (Mordecai Richler
famously called the lounge the only civilized place in Toronto). In winter you
will appreciate the couches in front of the fireplace, but in any other season, the
lounge’s open-air terrace is the place to be for a perfect view of the city (and an
impressive daiquiri).
Another major development for the hotel was the 2001 unveiling of the Stillwater Spa, which is unique in both its design and some of its treatments. One
signature therapy is a “watsu”-style massage, in which you float in a water-filled
room while a therapist applies shiatsu moves—it’s very soothing. See “Spas &
the City” on p. 149 for a complete review.
Park Hyatt Toronto
4 Avenue Rd., Toronto, ON M5R 2E8. & 800/233-1234 or 416/925-1234. Fax 416/924-6693. www.park
toronto.hyatt.com. 346 units. C$225–$499 (US$158–$349) double; from C$299 (US$209) suite. Weekend
packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$25 (US$18). Subway: Museum or Bay. Pets accepted.
Amenities: Restaurant; 2 bars; health club; sauna; Jacuzzi; spa; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer,
iron, safe.
70
EXPENSIVE
Although it towers over the intersection of
Bay and Wellesley, The Sutton Place boasts the advantages of a small hotel—
particularly detail-oriented, personalized service. In addition to hosting a galaxy
of stars and celebrities, the hotel draws sophisticated business and leisure travelers in search of serious pampering. The emphasis is on sophistication—famous
guests expect to be left alone, and management protects their privacy. In other
words, no autograph seekers.
The hotel aims for European panache, littering the public spaces with antiques
and tapestries. The spacious guest rooms are decorated in a similar, though scaleddown, style, and all were refurbished in 2001. A few suites have full kitchens.
Not that you’d want to cook while you’re here—the lovely ground-floor Accents
restaurant serves continental fare, and across the street the star-studded Bistro 990
produces perfect French cuisine. One downside is that The Sutton Place stands
alone in its neighborhood. It’s about a 10- to 15-minute walk to attractions such
as the Royal Ontario Museum and the Yorkville shopping district.
The Sutton Place Hotel
955 Bay St., Toronto, ON M5S 2A2. & 800/268-3790 or 416/924-9221. Fax 416/924-1778. www.suttonplace.
com. 294 units. C$235–$325 (US$165–$228) double; from C$400 (US$280) suite. Extra person C$20 (US$14).
Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Weekend discounts available. AE, DC, MC, V. Valet parking
C$28 (US$20); self-parking C$20 (US$14). Subway: Wellesley. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;
indoor pool; health club; sauna; concierge; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting;
laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
MODERATE
Howard Johnson Yorkville Formerly the Venture Inn, this hotel is a bargain
in a very expensive neighborhood. It’s a little more expensive than it used to be,
but it also has a few more amenities now. The Yorkville location is excellent,
which is the trade-off for small rooms. As with many value-priced hotels, you’re
not going to want to spend much time in your room.
89 Avenue Rd., Toronto, ON M5R 2G3. & 800/446-4656 or 416/964-1220. Fax 416/964-8692. www.hojocanada.com. 71 units. C$89–$229 (US$62–$160) double. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V.
Parking C$10 (US$7). Subway: Bay or Museum. Pets accepted. Amenities: Concierge; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, hair dryer, iron.
Considering this hotel’s tony location—steps
Value
from Yorkville and several museums, including the Royal Ontario Museum—
the price is hard to beat. The rooms are small but comfortable, and outfitted
with well-lit worktables. Choice Club members have access to in-house secretarial services; executive rooms have fax-modem hookups. However, there aren’t
many other amenities or services. This is a good home base for a leisure traveler
who prizes location over other considerations. If you’re not planning on hanging out a lot in your hotel room, it’s a small tradeoff to make for the price.
Quality Hotel Midtown
280 Bloor St. W. (at St. George St.), Toronto, ON M5S 1V8. & 416/968-0010. www.choicehotels.ca. 210
units. C$139–$209 (US$97–$146) double. Weekend and other packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$12 (US$8.40). Subway: St. George. Amenities: Restaurant; coffee shop; access to nearby health club;
limited room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
INEXPENSIVE
This hotel is one of Toronto’s
Finds
better-kept secrets. Ornate chandeliers, stucco moldings, and high ceilings make
the 1890s Victorian building an absolute stunner. In a predominantly gay neighborhood, the Selby attracts gay and straight couples, as well as seniors (the latter
Howard Johnson Selby Hotel & Suites
THE EAST END
71
group gets special discounts). All of the rooms now have private bathrooms, but
only a few have an old-fashioned claw-foot tub. The staff is very friendly, and while
there’s no concierge, there’s no shortage of advice and recommendations for what
to see and do.
592 Sherbourne St., Toronto, ON M4X 1L4. & 800/387-4788 or 416/921-3142. Fax 416/923-3177. www.hojocanada.com. 82 units. C$79–$119 (US$55–$83) double; C$125–$165 (US$88–$116) suite. Rates include continental breakfast. AE, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$10 (US$7). Subway: Sherbourne. Amenities: Access to nearby
health club; laundry room. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker.
This is a summer steal: You could not find a betValue
ter deal in this part of town. From early May to late August, Victoria University
(which is federated with the University of Toronto) makes its student accommodations available to travelers. Furnishings are simple—a bed, desk, and chair are
standard—but the surroundings are splendid. Many of the rooms are in Burwash
Hall, a 19th-century building that overlooks a peaceful, leafy quad. All rooms are
down the street from the Royal Ontario Museum, and up the street from Queen’s
Park. Guests are provided with linens, towels, and soap.
Victoria University
140 Charles St. W., Toronto, ON M5S 1K9. & 416/585-4524. Fax 416/585-4530. [email protected].
700 units (none w/private bathroom). C$66 (US$46) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Closed Sept–April.
Nearby parking C$12 (US$8.40). Subway: Museum. Amenities: Access to health club with Olympic-size pool;
tennis courts; laundry room. In room: No phone.
4 Uptown
MODERATE
Best Western Roehampton Hotel & Suites The Roehampton is removed
from downtown attractions, but still well located—for some people. It is a short
walk from one of the best dining districts in the city, and a short bus ride from
the Ontario Science Centre and 243 hectares (600 acres) of parkland (including
hiking and cross-country skiing trails, and the Sunnybrook stables). The large,
nicely furnished rooms boast big windows and peaceful views. With the wealth
of hotels downtown, there’s no reason to come this far north unless you need
to—but if you do, this is a nice, relatively inexpensive place to stay.
808 Mount Pleasant Rd., Toronto, ON M4P 2L2. & 800/387-8899 or 416/487-5101. Fax 416/487-5390.
www.bestwestern.com. 112 units. C$145–$175 (US$102–$123) double. Packages available. Children 17 and
under stay free in parent’s room. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$8 (US$5.60). Subway: Eglinton. Amenities:
Restaurant; outdoor rooftop pool; health club; concierge; limited room service; babysitting; laundry service;
dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
5 The East End
Although it’s not close to the downtown attractions, this area has many sights that
are worth noting. They include the Ontario Science Centre, the Toronto Zoo, the
Scarborough Bluffs (which homesick English settlers compared to the white cliffs
of Dover), and the Scarborough Town Centre, a vast shopping complex.
There are a number of moderately priced chain hotels in this area. They
include Embassy Suites, 8500 Warden Ave., Markham, ON L6G 1A5 (& 905/
470-8500); Howard Johnson, 940 Progress Ave., Scarborough, ON M1G 3T5
(& 800/446-4656); Radisson, 1250 Eglinton Ave. E., Don Mills, ON M3C
1J3 (& 416/449-4111); Ramada, 185 Yorkland Blvd., Don Mills, ON M2J
4R2 (& 800/2-RAMADA); and Sheraton, 2035 Kennedy Rd., Scarborough,
ON M1T 3G2 (& 416/299-1500).
72
EXPENSIVE
This hotel is less than half an hour from downtown,
but its location and 6 hectares (15 acres) of parkland make it feel like a secluded
resort. The generously proportioned rooms are designed for comfort. Many have
a bay window or balcony, and the view makes Toronto look like one big forest.
Standard features include a refrigerator, two phones, and a marble bathroom.
Westin Prince Hotel
900 York Mills Rd., Don Mills, ON M3B 3H2. & 800/WESTIN-1 or 416/444-2511. Fax 416/444-9597. www.
westin.com. 384 units. C$150–$320 (US$105–$224) double. Extra person C$20 (US$14). Children 17 and
under stay free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Subway: York
Mills. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; outdoor heated pool; 9-hole putting green; tennis courts; health club;
sauna; children’s center; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning.
In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
INEXPENSIVE
University of Toronto at Scarborough Like the downtown U of T campus,
this student residence opens to travelers from mid-May to late August. The greenery-surrounded student village consists of town houses that sleep a maximum of six.
Each has a complete kitchen, but none has air-conditioning, a telephone, or a TV.
Student Village. Scarborough Campus, University of Toronto, 1265 Military Trail, Scarborough, ON M1C 1A4.
& 416/287-7356. Fax 416/287-7323. C$180 (US$126) double with 2-night minimum; each additional night
C$90 (US$63). Family rates available. MC. V. Closed Sept to mid-May. Free parking. Subway: Kennedy, then Scarborough Rapid Transit to Ellesmere, then bus no. 95 or 95B to college entrance. By car: Take exit 387 north from
Hwy. 401. Amenities: Cafeteria; pub; access to health club with squash and tennis courts. In room: No phone.
6 At the Airport
Don’t be fooled by anyone who tells you that the airport isn’t far from the city.
It’s at least a 30-minute drive to downtown, depending on traffic. A taxi downtown costs roughly C$36 (US$25); the cheap public-transit options from the
airport take an hour. Many of the hotels along the airport strip cater to business
travelers. Others may wish to stay in this area if they’re planning to divide their
time between Toronto and its outlying areas, such as the Niagara region. Serious
golfers come here for the area’s many golf courses, including the 18-hole championship layout at the Royal Woodbine Golf Club.
EXPENSIVE
Hilton Toronto Airport
I’m not enthusiastic about staying out by Pearson
International Airport, but one of the luxuries of doing so is that you can expect
a spacious room. The Hilton certainly makes good on this opportunity. In fact,
one of its main attractions is its 152 minisuites—all of which have a king-size bed
in the bedroom, a sofa bed in the living room, a color TV in both rooms, and
three phones. Another lure is the chain’s well-regarded array of business-oriented
amenities. The building underwent a C$9 million (US$6.3 million) face-lift in
1999, and a smaller renovation in the fall of 2001.
5875 Airport Rd., Mississauga, ON L4V 1N1. & 800/567-9999 or 905/677-9900. Fax 905/677-7782. www.
hilton.com. 413 units. From C$219 (US$153) double; from C$244 (US$171) minisuite. Extra person C$25
(US$18). Children stay free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$12
(US$8.40). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; nearby golf course; health club; sauna; spa; children’s
center; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; 24-hr. room service; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, fax, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Sheraton Gateway Hotel in Toronto International Airport
Talk
about convenience: You don’t even need to go outdoors to get here—just take
the skywalk from Terminal 3 (or a free shuttle from the other terminals). If
AT T H E A I R P O RT
73
you’re planning a very short trip that requires flying out of the city almost as
soon as you fly in, this hotel makes an awful lot of sense. Rooms are comfortable, spacious, and, more to the point, fully soundproofed (remember, you’re
still at the airport!). Club rooms have extra inducements, such as ergonomic
chairs, a fax/printer/copier, and access to a private lounge that serves complimentary breakfast and snacks.
Toronto AMF, Box 3000, Toronto, ON L5P 1C4. & 800/325-3535 or 905/672-7000. Fax 905/672-7100.
www.sheraton.com. 474 units. C$190–$280 (US$133–$196) double. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$19
(US$13). Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; indoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; in-room massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C,
TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.
For a hotel by the airport, the Wyndham has
a lot to offer. I’d never recommend staying near the airport unless you absolutely
have to, but if you do, the Wyndham is an excellent choice. This is undoubtedly
the most glamorous hotel for miles around—and the only one with a waterfall
in its lobby. The decor throughout the building is sophisticated, but the hotel’s
real claim to fame is its personalized service. (You’ll need to register for the Wyndham by Request program, which you can do online at www.wyndham.com; it’s
free, and filling out the questionnaire about everything from your dining to bedding preferences will improve your stay immeasurably.)
Guest rooms are well lit and spacious. Because it’s a 30-minute journey to
downtown Toronto, the good news is that the Wyndham boasts lots of amenities to keep you in the vicinity. The main dining room, Zachary’s, aims high,
with a seasonal menu and glamorously appointed dining room.
Wyndham Bristol Place
950 Dixon Rd., Toronto, ON M9W 5N4. & 800/WYNDHAM or 416/675-9444. Fax 416/675-4426. www.
wyndham.com. 287 units. C$175–$295 (US$123–$207) double; from C$400 (US$280) suite. Extra person
C$20 (US$14). Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V.
Parking C$12 (US$8.40). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; large skylit indoor pool; health club; sauna;
concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV,
dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
MODERATE
This hotel has steadily grown into one of the
best bets in the airport region. Its excellent meeting space makes it a favorite for
trade shows and conventions. Because the hotel was constructed piece by piece,
the rooms vary greatly from floor to floor. Every unit is a minisuite with a king
or two double beds, a sturdy desk, and an L-shaped sofa. Not surprisingly, given
the location, the hotel is a self-contained entertainment complex. There are two
restaurants: the Royal Chinese, for formal dining, and the more casual Atrium.
The Banyan Bar offers live entertainment on Friday and Saturday evenings.
Regal Constellation Hotel
900 Dixon Rd., Toronto, ON M9W 1J7. & 800/222-8888 or 416/675-1500. Fax 416/675-4611. 710 units.
C$115–$195 (US$81–$137). Extra person C$15 (US$11). Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room.
Weekend and honeymoon packages available. AE, DC, MC, V. Parking C$8 (US$5.60). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; indoor/outdoor pool; exercise room; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; salon;
24-hr. room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
Toronto Airport Marriott Hotel One of the newest airport hotels, the Marriott is popular with business travelers. Of course, everything out here is really for
business travelers. However, the Marriott is trying to attract leisure travelers, too,
so expect a weekend discount of up to 50%. Rooms are comfortable and spacious. The amenities are in keeping with the Marriott name—no surprises here.
There are two restaurants off the lobby: Take note of the Mikado, a Japanese
74
restaurant where your meal can be cooked right at your table (think food as performance art).
901 Dixon Rd, Toronto, ON M9W 1J5. & 800/905-2811 or 416/674-9400. Fax 416/674-8292. www.marriott.
com. 424 units. C$120–$245 (US$84–$172) double. Extra person C$15 (US$11). Weekend packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$8 (US$5.60). Amenities: 2 restaurants; bar; skylit indoor pool; nearby
golf course; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; concierge; car-rental desk; business center; 24-hr. room service;
babysitting; same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, coffeemaker, hair
dryer, iron.
INEXPENSIVE
Belaire Hotel Toronto Airport Formerly a Comfort Inn, this hotel offers
simple rooms at reasonable rates. Rooms are decorated in pine, and just big
enough to hold a queen-size bed, dresser, desk and chair, and plush armchair or
loveseat.
240 Belfield Rd., Rexdale, ON M9W 1H3. & 416/241-8513. Fax 416/249-4203. 114 units. C$90–$140 (US$63–
$98) double. Extra person C$10 (US$7). Children 17 and under stay free in parent’s room. Rates include
continental breakfast. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; limited room service;
laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
For the price, this is a very good bet on the
airport strip; the facilities are similar to those at pricier hotels. The guest rooms
are bright and cheery, and 20 of them were recently renovated to become Corporate Plus rooms geared towards business travelers. Upgraded units have
bathrobes (unusual at a hotel in this price range), irons and ironing boards, and
fax-modem hookups. The Garden Café Restaurant is open all day.
Days Hotel—Toronto Airport
6257 Airport Rd., Mississauga, ON L4V 1N1. & 800/387-6891 or 905/678-1400. Fax 905/678-9130. www.
daysinn.com. 201 units. C$90–$169 (US$63–$118) double. Extra person C$10 (US$7). Children 16 and under stay
free in parent’s room. Weekend packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking C$6 (US$4.20) per day, C$18
(US$13) per week. Amenities: Restaurant; outdoor pool; exercise room; sauna; limited room service; coin-op
laundry. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Delta Meadowvale Resort & Conference Centre Set on 9 hectares
(23 acres) of greenery, the Delta has all the attributes of a restful resort. There
are hiking and biking trails, tennis and squash courts, and indoor and outdoor
swimming pools. The cozy rooms have modern wooden furniture, and each
boasts a small balcony, a refrigerator, and two phones. The Regatta Bar & Grille
serves a variety of dishes throughout the day; there are also two lounges for
evening drinks (one only in summer, as it’s out of doors).
6750 Mississauga Rd. (at Hwy. 401), Mississauga, ON L5N 2L3. & 800/422-8238 or 905/821-1981. Fax
905/542-4036. www.deltahotels.com. 374 units. C$110–$240 (US$77–$168) double. Weekend discounts
available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Downtown shuttle C$11 (US$7.70) one-way. Amenities:
2 restaurants; 2 bars; children’s center; business center; salon; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Talk about getting away from it all:
on a 2.5-hectare (6-acre) woodland site, the Four Points Sheraton offers a relaxing—dare I say pastoral?—setting. Guest rooms were last renovated in 2002,
with bathrooms, carpets, and draperies singled out for attention. The lobby,
business center and meeting rooms were also renovated in 2002.
Four Points Sheraton Toronto Airport
5444 Dixie Rd. (at Hwy. 401), Mississauga, ON L4W 2L2. & 800/737-3211 or 905/624-1144. Fax 416/
624-9477. www.fourpoints.com/torontoairport. 296 units. C$119–$265 (US$83–$186) double. Extra person
C$15 (US$11). Weekend discounts available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant;
indoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna; children’s center; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting;
same-day laundry service/dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
5
Where to Dine
D
ining out is nothing short of a passion in Toronto. It’s not that we’re too
lazy to cook, but we are spoiled by the
embarrassment of edible riches in all
parts of the city. Many restaurants are
just as busy on a Wednesday as they
are on a weekend, because dining out
is a hallmark of the local culture.
The city is a restaurant-goer’s nirvana for a wealth of reasons. For
starters, there are more than 5,000
eateries. They represent cooking styles
from any country or nationality you
can name, making Toronto’s culinary
scene both eclectic and palate teasing.
Eating out is also remarkably affordable: While the most expensive restaurants have some entrees priced above
C$40 (US$28), many more boast topnotch cooking for bargain-basement
prices—it’s a very competitive market.
(Keep in mind, too, that for American
visitors, even the most expensive
Toronto restaurants aren’t so pricey
given the weak Canadian dollar.)
Mediterranean and Asian cuisines
dominate the scene—and often
appear on the same plate. Fusion
cooking caught on big here and has
never lost its steam. Many restaurants
that started out as, say, Italian, have
incorporated ingredients and cooking
styles from Southeast Asia and North
Africa, among other haute spots. Each
wave of immigration has carried new
ideas and flavors.
While restaurants of all descriptions
are found across the city, certain
neighborhoods are renowned for their
specialties: Little Italy for its trattorias,
Chinatown for its Chinese and Vietnamese eateries, and the Danforth for
its Greek tavernas. In recent months,
King Street West has unexpectedly
become the new hot spot for in-theknow gourmets, offering a bevy of
new bistros and boîtes.
DINING NOTES Dining out does
not have to be an expensive venture,
but the tax level is high. Meals are subject to the 8% provincial sales tax and
to the 7% GST. In other words, tax
and tip together can add 30% to your
bill. Restaurants normally leave tipping to the diners’ discretion, unless
there are six or more people at the
table. The usual amount for good
service is 15%, jumping to 20% at
the pricier establishments. The price
of a bottle of wine is generally quite
high because of the tax on imports;
get around it by ordering an Ontario
vintage—local wines enjoy a rising
international reputation. Remember
that there is a 10% tax on alcohol,
whatever you’re sipping.
NOTES ON THE REVIEWS
Restaurants are grouped by neighborhood and listed alphabetically under
the following main-course price
ranges (not counting tax and tip): very
expensive, C$30 (US$21) and up;
expensive, C$20 to $29 (US$14–$20);
and moderate, C$10 to $19 (US$7–
$13). At inexpensive restaurants, it’s
possible to eat an entire meal for C$15
(US$11) or less. Many restaurants’
offerings veer into higher and lower
categories, so the ranges are general
guidelines. Keep in mind that many
Where to Dine in Downtown
1
College
St.
Augusta
Kensington Pl.
Kensington Ave.
West
12 11
13
Queen
St.
West
17
Richmond
St.
West
Adelaide
St.
West
9
8
10
St.
14
St.
20
21
24
THEATRE DISTRICT
25
King St. West
28
26
22 23
Ave.
19
Portland St.
18
Peter
15
16
Wellington St. West
Spadina
6
GRANGE
PARK
Augusta
Ave.
ALEXANDRA
PARK
St.
Spadina Ave.
7
Dundas
CHINATOWN
D’Arcy St.
John St.
Bathurst
5
Baldwin St.
St. Andrews
St.
29
27
Front St. West
Peter St.
SkyDome
Esplanade West
The
Gardiner Expressway
Queens Quay West
Bathurst
Quay
Spadina
Quay
1/4 mi
0
N
0
76
4
3
Beverley St.
St.
2
Nassau St.
Ave.
Oxford St.
Bathurst
Agora 6
Avalon 25
Barberian’s 38
Biff’s 50
Blowfish Restaurant & Sake Bar 19
Brassaii 23
Bymark 45
Canoe Restaurant & Bar 44
Cities 16
Citron 17
Courthouse Market Grille 42
Crush 22
Eau 20
Ecco La 1
Epic 46
Far Niente 47
The Fifth 33
Fortune Cookie 28
Fressen 14
Happy Seven 3
Hiro Sushi 53
HotHouse Cafe 52
Juice for Life 12
Jump Cafe & Bar 48
La Bodega 5
La Palette 2
Lai Wah Heen 36
Le Papillon 51
Le Select 9
Left Bank 13
Lee Garden 4
Monsoon 32
Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club 54
Oro 37
Penelope 31
Peter Pan 8
Queen Mother Cafe 35
Rain 29
The Rivoli 11
Rodney’s Oyster House 26
Rosewater Supper Club 41
Sang Ho 7
Senses 27
Shopsy’s 49
Susur 21
Swan 18
Taro Grill 15
360 Revolving Restaurant 30
Torch Bistro 39
Tortilla Flats 10
Tundra 34
Young Thailand 40
YYZ 24
ZooM Caffe & Bar 43
0.25 km
Maple Leaf Quays
College
St.
Carlton St.
COLLEGE
Bay
St.
QUEEN'S PARK
St.
West
Gerrard
St.
East
St.
Sherbourne
St. East
KING
King
48
OLD
TOWN
46
49
Jarvis St.
East
52
t St.
Fron 51
East
54
53
The Esplanade
St.
50
St.
St.
Lombard
St.
41
43
Wellington St. East
East
Market St.
47
45
42
Scotia
Plaza
Union Station
30
Esplanade West
York
East
shore Blvd.
Lake
s Quay
Queen
John
Quay
St.
Sherbourne
Victoria St.
St.
MOSS
PARK
40
Church St.
44
UNION
CN Tower
Queen
Adelaide St. East
Royal
Bank
Plaza
Convention
Centre
Richmond
Temperance St.
First
Canadian
Place
Shuter
Scott St.
QUEEN
St.
Yonge St.
St.
York
St.
ST. ANDREW
Simcoe
Jarvis
St.
St.
Duncan
39
Bay
Queen
34
31
Dundas St. East
Bay St.
32
t.
nS
Hage r m a
Nathan
Phillips
Square
OSGOODE
33
St.
DUNDAS
Sheppard St.
Simcoe St.
36
38
Edward
Church
St.
35
University Ave.
St. Patrick St.
McCaul St.
ST. PATRICK
Chestnut
Bus
Terminal
Yonge
37
Elm St.
St.
St.
St.
Gerrard
ALLAN
GARDENS
HARBOURFRONT PARK
York Quay
401
TORONTO
427
area of detail
TTC Subway
Church
2
Lake Ontario
Lake Ontario
East
N
Post Office
TTC Subway
77
Where to Dine in Midtown West & Uptown
TORONTO
427
area of detail
D av e n
port Rd.
TTC Subway
2
Spadina Rd.
401
N
Dupont St.
DUPONT
en
D av
2
Lake Ontario
po
1
Rd
rt
Bedford Rd.
Huron St.
St. George St.
Prince Arthur
9
4
10
Bloor St. West
SPADINA
ST. GEORGE
5
8
7
St. George St.
Hart
House
Circle
Co
g's ll
C ircle
College Rd.
Spadina
Circle
Huron St.
College St.
Willcocks St.
Spadina Ave.
Ulster St.
Varsity
Stadium
Hoskin Ave.
Harbord St.
Kin
6
Sussex Ave.
Devonshire Pl.
BATHURST
Nassau St.
78
Madison Ave.
Spadina Rd.
Brunswick Ave.
Lowther Ave.
See "Where to Dine from
Chinatown to Bloor Street" map
Brunswick Ave.
Bathurst St.
Palmerston Blvd.
3
Bernard Ave.
Oxford St.
TTC Subway
Pears
.
e
eg
Annapurna Vegetarian
Restaurant 1
Annona 14
Bistro 990 32
Bloor Street Diner 26
Boba 15
Café Nervosa 24
Colony Kitchen 11
Goldfish 4
Gus 31
Il Posto Nuovo 22
Indian Rice Factory 2
Jacques Bistro du Parc 23
Japan Deli 27
Joso’s 17
Kensington Kitchen 6
Lakes 19
Lox, Stock & Bagel 21
Matignon 30
Messis 7
Mistura 3
Nataraj 4
Opus 9
Pangaea 25
Patriot 12
Pho Hung 10
Rebel House 20
Rouge 5
Serra 4
Sotto Sotto 16
Splendido Bar and Grill 8
SpringRolls 28
Thai Magic 18
Truffles 13
Wish 29
0
1/8 mile
N
0
100 meters
Pricefield Rd.
Mac Pherson Ave.
18
Chestnut Pk.
19
Roxborough St. West
Roxborough St. East
20
ROSEDALE
Ave.
Pear
s
Bay St.
Yonge St.
Yorkville Ave.
St.
27
Bloor St. East
Hayden St.
Charles St.
e.
30
Isabella St.
Gloucester St.
32
Dundonald St.
Bay St.
Wellesley St. West
WELLESLEY
Wellesley St. East
Grenville St.
College St.
COLLEGE
Wood St.
MAPLE LEAF
GARDENS
Jarvis St.
Church St.
Maitland St.
Alexander St.
QUEEN'S PARK
Jarvis St.
St. Marys St.
31
d.
28 29
n Av
ey R
S t.
26
Irwi
QUEEN’SS
QUEEN
PARK
Vall
BLOOR-YONGE
Yonge St.
St. Thomas
St.
.
SHERBOURNE
BAY
Sultan St.
Charles
ch
Rd
ur
12
MUSEUM
k
r
Pa
25
13
11
le
Ch
Cumberland St.
da
M ount Pleasant Rd.
se
24
23
Queen’s Park
Ro
Scollard St.
22
Ave.
Crescent Rd.
Berryman St.
21
14
A v e.
Hazelton
15
Avenue Rd.
16
Ave.
17
Carlton St.
ALLAN
GARDENS
Gerrard St. West
Gerrard St. East
79
80
C H A P T E R 5 . W H E R E TO D I N E
Tips A Note on Smoking
Almost all Toronto restaurants are nonsmoking, the result of an antismoking bylaw that went into effect on June 1, 2001. Exceptions are
made for patios and separately ventilated dining rooms. Some restaurants chose to designate themselves as bars to get around the restriction,
but this led to another problem; they had to ban people under the age
of 19 from the premises. Restaurateurs vowed to fight the regulation,
which subjects both patrons and establishments to fines of C$200 to
C$5,000 (US$140–$3,500) for infractions, but they’ve been unsuccessful to
date. When making a reservation, ask about the restaurant’s smoking
policy.
restaurants change their menus and
policies at a moment’s notice. If a listing says a restaurant doesn’t accept
reservations, but you have your heart
set on eating there, it doesn’t hurt to
call and ask if a reservation (or an
exception) could be made.
1 Restaurants by Cuisine
AMERICAN
Far Niente
(Downtown West,
$$$, p. 88)
Jump Cafe & Bar
(Downtown
West, $$$, p. 89)
ASIAN
Fortune Cookie (Downtown
West, $$, p. 92)
Monsoon (Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 86)
Queen Mother Cafe (Downtown
West, $, p. 95)
Rain (Downtown West, $$$,
p. 89)
SpringRolls (Midtown West, $,
p. 107)
BELGIAN
Café Brussel (The East End, $$$,
p. 108)
BISTRO
Biff ’s
(Downtown East, $$$,
p. 96)
Brassaii
(Downtown West,
$$, p. 90)
Cities (Downtown West, $$,
p. 91)
Crush (Downtown West, $$,
p. 91)
Lakes (Uptown, $$$, p. 112)
La Palette (Downtown West,
$$, p. 92)
Le Sélect Bistro (Downtown West,
$$, p. 92)
Lolo
(Uptown, $$, p. 113)
Pony (Downtown West, $$, p. 94)
Stork on the Roof (Uptown, $$,
p. 113)
Torch Bistro (Downtown East,
$$$, p. 97)
Wish (Downtown East, $$,
p. 99)
CAJUN
Southern Accent (Midtown West,
$$, p. 105)
CANADIAN
Canoe Restaurant & Bar
(Downtown West, $$$$, p. 85)
Patriot
(Midtown West, $$$,
p. 102)
Splendido Bar and Grill (Midtown
West, $$$, p. 102)
Tundra
(Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 86)
Key to Abbreviations: $$$$ = Very Expensive $$$ = Expensive $$ = Moderate $ = Inexpensive
Where to Dine from Chinatown to Bloor Street
14
SPADINA
0
Huron St.
N
0
100 meters
N
401
TORONTO
427
TTC Subway
2
area of detail
Lake Ontario
TTC Subway
Restaurant 9
Annona 15
Boba 16
Chiado 1
Ecco La 21
Goldfish 11
Happy Seven 22
Kalendar 5
Kensington Kitchen 18
La Bodega 25
Lalibela 7
Lee Garden 24
Messis 20
CHINESE
Grand Yatt (North of the City,
$$, p. 116)
Happy Seven (Downtown West, $,
p. 95)
Lai Wah Heen
(Downtown
West, $$$, p. 89)
Lee Garden (Downtown West, $,
p. 95)
Sang Ho (Downtown West, $$,
p. 94)
C O N T I N E N TA L
Café Societa
$$, p. 91)
(Downtown West,
Queen’s Park Cr.West
Baldwin St.
D’ Arcy St.
25
University Ave.
QUEEN'S PARK
24
23
1/10 mile
St. George St.
dina
QUEEN’S
QUEEN
PARK
UNIVERSITY
OF
TORONTO
Cecil St.
22
Avenue
Rd.
Devonshir
Pl.
Spadina Ave.
Robert St.
Willcocks St.
Spa
Major St.
Brunswick Ave.
Borden St.
Lippencott St.
Dundas St. W.
MUSEUM
Hoskin Ave.
21
College St.
Belleview Ave.
6
Augusta Ave.
5
Bathurst St.
Palmerston
Markham St.
Manning Ave.
Blvd.
4
Palmerston Ave.
Claremont St.
3
Bellwoods Ave.
Beatrice St.
Gorevale Ave.
2
Ulster St.
Euclid Ave.
Clinton St.
Grace St.
1
20
Cr.
18 19
Harbord St.
Spadina Ave.
Jersey Ave.
Herrick St.
17
ST. GEORGE
Lennox St.
Sussex St.
15
Murray St.
Simcoe St.
12
8
McCaul St.
7
10 11
Henry St.
CHRISTIE
16
13
St. Patrick St.
BATHURST
Bloor St. W.
Prince Arthur Ave.
9
ST. PATRICK
Nataraj 10
Opus 13
Pho Hung 14
Pony 3
Rouge 12
Sang Ho 23
Serra 11
Sottovoce 4
Southern Accent 8
Splendido Bar & Grill 19
Truffles 17
Veni Vidi Vici 2
Xacutti 6
Centro
(Uptown, $$$$,
p. 110)
HotHouse Cafe (Downtown East,
$$, p. 98)
Opus (Midtown West, $$$$,
p. 100)
Oro (Downtown West, $$$,
p. 89)
360 Revolving Restaurant (Downtown West, $$$$, p. 86)
Truffles (Midtown West, $$$$,
p. 101)
82
DELI
Lox, Stock & Bagel (Midtown
West, $, p. 106)
Shopsy’s (Downtown East, $,
p. 100)
ECLECTIC
Avalon
(Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 84)
Citron (Downtown West, $$,
p. 91)
The Fifth
(Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 85)
Goldfish
(Midtown West, $$,
p. 103)
Messis (Midtown West, $$,
p. 104)
Mildred Pierce
(Downtown
West, $$, p. 93)
Octavia (The East End, $$,
p. 108)
Rouge
(Midtown West, $$,
p. 104)
Swan (Downtown West, $$,
p. 94)
Taro Grill (Downtown West,
$$, p. 94)
ETHIOPIAN
Lalibela (Midtown West, $,
p. 106)
FRENCH
Auberge du Pommier (Uptown,
$$$$, p. 110)
Bistro 990
(Midtown West,
$$$$, p. 100)
Jacques Bistro du Parc (Midtown
West, $$, p. 104)
La Bodega (Downtown West, $$,
p. 92)
Matignon (Midtown West, $$,
p. 104)
Quartier (Uptown, $$$, p. 112)
FUSION
Boba (Midtown West, $$$,
p. 101)
Colony Kitchen
(Midtown
West, $$, p. 103)
Eau (Downtown West, $$$$,
p. 85)
Pangaea (Midtown West, $$$,
p. 102)
The Rivoli
(Downtown West,
$, p. 96)
Susur
(Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 86)
Veni Vidi Vici
(Downtown
West, $$, p. 94)
GREEK
Astoria (The East End, $, p. 109)
Avli (The East End, $, p. 109)
Christina’s (The East End, $$,
p. 108)
Gus (Midtown West, $$,
p. 103)
Mezes (The East End, $, p. 110)
Myth
(The East End, $$,
p. 108)
p. 108)
Ouzeri (The East End, $, p. 110)
Pan on the Danforth (The East
End, $$, p. 108)
Penelope (Downtown West, $,
p. 95)
INDIAN
Indian Rice Factory (Midtown
West, $, p. 105)
Nataraj (Midtown West, $, p. 106)
Xacutti
(Downtown West,
$$$, p. 90)
I N T E R N AT I O N A L
Annona (Midtown West, $$$,
p. 101)
Brassaii
(Downtown West,
$$, p. 90)
Bymark (Downtown West, $$$$,
p. 85)
Courthouse Market Grille (Downtown East, $$$, p. 97)
Epic
(Downtown West, $$$,
p. 88)
North 44
(Uptown, $$$$,
p. 111)
Rosewater Supper Club (Downtown East, $$$, p. 97)
Scaramouche (Uptown, $$$$,
p. 111)
R E S TA U R A N T S B Y C U I S I N E
Senses
p. 90)
Terra
(North of the City, $$$,
p. 116)
YYZ
(Downtown West, $$$$,
p. 87)
ZooM Caffe & Bar (Downtown
East, $$$, p. 98)
I TA L I A N
Amore Trattoria
(Uptown, $$,
p. 113)
Café Nervosa (Midtown West, $$,
p. 103)
Dante’s
(North of the City, $,
p. 116)
Ecco La (Downtown West, $$,
p. 92)
Grano (Uptown, $$, p. 113)
Il Posto Nuovo (Midtown West,
$$$, p. 101)
La Bruschetta (Uptown, $$$,
p. 111)
Mistura (Midtown West, $$$,
p. 102)
Serra (Midtown West, $, p. 107)
Sotto Sotto
(Midtown West,
$$, p. 105)
Terroni (Downtown East, $$,
p. 99)
Veni Vidi Vici
(Downtown
West, $$, p. 94)
J A PA N E S E / S U S H I
Blowfish Restaurant & Sake Bar
p. 87)
Hiro Sushi (Downtown East,
$$$, p. 97)
Japan Deli (Midtown West, $,
p. 106)
LAOTIAN
Vanipha Lanna
p. 114)
(Uptown, $$,
L I G H T FA R E
Bloor Street Diner (Midtown
West, $, p. 105)
Hannah’s Kitchen (Uptown, $,
p. 114)
83
Hello Toast (Downtown East, $,
p. 99)
HotHouse Cafe (Downtown East,
$$, p. 98)
Kalendar
(Downtown West,
$, p. 95)
Peter Pan (Downtown West, $$,
p. 93)
Rebel House (Uptown, $, p. 115)
Sottovoce (Downtown West, $,
p. 96)
Terroni (Downtown East, $$,
p. 99)
MEDITERRANEAN
Agora (Downtown West, $$$,
p. 87)
Kensington Kitchen
(Midtown West, $, p. 106)
Millie’s Bistro
(Uptown, $$$,
p. 112)
Myth
(The East End, $$,
p. 108)
p. 108)
MIDDLE EASTERN
Mezzetta (Uptown, $$, p. 113)
PORTUGUESE
Chiado (Downtown West, $$$,
p. 88)
QUEBECOIS
Le Papillon (Downtown East, $,
p. 99)
Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club
(Downtown East, $$, p. 99)
SEAFOOD
Joso’s (Midtown West, $$, p. 104)
Rodney’s Oyster House (Downtown West, $$, p. 94)
Sang Ho (Downtown West, $$,
p. 94)
STEAK
Barberian’s (Downtown West,
$$$$, p. 84)
TEX-MEX
Tortilla Flats (Downtown West, $,
p. 96)
84
THAI
Thai Magic (Uptown, $$$,
p. 112)
Vanipha Lanna
(Uptown, $$,
p. 114)
Young Thailand
(Downtown
East, $, p. 100)
Fressen (Downtown West, $$,
p. 114)
Juice for Life (Downtown West, $,
p. 114)
VIETNAMESE
Pho Hung (Midtown West, $,
p. 106)
V E G E TA R I A N
Annapurna Vegetarian Restaurant
(Midtown West, $, p. 114)
2 Downtown West
This is where you will find Toronto’s greatest concentration of great restaurants.
Little Italy, which runs along College Street, and Chinatown, which radiates
from Spadina Avenue, has more restaurants than any other parts of the city.
You’ll see a lot of high-price, low-quality eateries in the area, too. There also
tends to be more attitude from wait staffs, particularly along the gourmet ghetto
of Queen Street West. I’m a firm believer that even the best food can’t make up
for shoddy service, so the restaurants I’ve selected generally get high marks in
both categories. Because service is so important to me, you won’t find reviews of
restaurants where it’s totally substandard. A case in point is Little Italy’s Trattoria Giancarlo, which has gained renown for its very good cooking and its celeb
sightings. Unfortunately, you pretty much have to be a star to get even a glass
of water brought to your table. Personally, no matter how charming a meal is,
I find that lousy service leaves a bad taste in my mouth.
VERY EXPENSIVE
ECLECTIC Follow the slim marble staircase into the elegant,
compact dining room. Careful attention to detail is clear, whether in the spray
of fresh flowers on each table or the daily chef ’s menu. (The regular menu
changes with the seasons.) Avalon has one of the most inventive kitchens in the
city, and it demonstrates its creativity through pairings of flavors rather than a
showy multiplicity of ingredients. Main courses favor fish and fowl, such as
steamed Boston fluke and Alaskan king crab with a sweet-pea sauce, or lightly
smoked Moulard duck breast with pommes Anna and a blackcurrant coulis.
Desserts include treats like pear-and-elderflower sorbet and a wide selection of
cheeses. The globetrotting wine list represents New World and Old.
Avalon
270 Adelaide St. W. (at John St.). & 416/979-9918. Reservations required. Main courses C$29–$40
(US$20–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Thurs noon–2pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm. Subway: St. Andrew.
Barberian’s STEAK Not getting enough protein? Get thee to Harry Barberian’s upscale steakhouse, which has been going strong since 1959 (his son,
Arron, has since taken over). The room is cozy in a clubby way, with dark woods,
framed newspapers, and pre-Confederation doodads. The menu rarely changes,
but you won’t hear any grousing—the crowd is too busy slurping martinis. The
highlights are the eight steaks, from 9-ounce sirloin to 23-ounce porterhouse, all
served with rice and spuds. The less traditional can partake of dishes like cheese
or beef fondue for two, which is on the late-night menu (10pm–midnight). For
all intents and purposes, there is only one dessert: Grand Marnier soufflé for
two. The wine list is about 1,000 strong, so bring your reading specs. Celebrity
sightings aren’t uncommon, but autograph seeking is frowned upon.
85
7 Elm St. & 416/597-0335. Reservations required. Main courses C$22–$37 (US$15–$26). AE, DC, MC, V.
Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; daily 5pm–midnight. Subway: Dundas.
Bymark Overrated INTERNATIONAL I feel terrible: For years I’ve hoped that
Mark McEwan, the excellent chef behind North 44—one of my favorite restaurants in any city (p. 111)—would open a restaurant in downtown Toronto. Now
that he has, I can hardly believe my disappointment. While the food here is very
good and the design is subtly beautiful, the service is lacking and the atmosphere
is abominable. If you don’t mind your very expensive meal being disrupted
repeatedly by drunken louts in suits at the neighboring tables, you’ve found your
restaurant! This is one of the hot see-and-be-seen spots of the moment, and, if
you’re determined to stop in, take my advice and bypass Bymark’s dining room
for its bar.
66 Wellington St. W. & 416/777-1144. Reservations required. Main courses C$30–$48 (US$21–$34).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Subway: King.
CANADIAN The inspiring view makes this
the place to see Toronto lit up at night. The interior isn’t so shabby, either, with
polished wooden floors and furnishings. Corporate types predominate, not only
because Canoe is in the Financial District, but also because the prices best suit
expense accounts. The meat-heavy menu showcases modern Canadian cuisine.
Grilled veal tenderloin served with acorn squash and warm sage-infused goat
cheese vies for attention with Maritime sea scallops served with a tartlet of
caramelized potatoes and double-smokes bacon. A few “spa inspired” dishes
are lower in fat. The wine list only scratches the surface—roughly two-thirds of
the bottles in stock aren’t included—so if you’re craving a certain vintage, be sure
to ask.
Canoe Restaurant & Bar
54th floor, Toronto Dominion Tower, 66 Wellington St. W. & 416/364-0054. www.canoerestaurant.com.
Reservations required. Main courses C$24–$40 (US$17–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:45am–2:30pm and
5–10:30pm. Subway: King.
Eau FUSION
There’s a certain segment of the Toronto population that likes
to think that their city is the New York of the North. That type would surely
gravitate to Eau, one of the new restaurants that’s enlivening the formerly sedate
King Street West area. It’s cool, it’s stylish, and it’s way overpriced. The cocktail menu is funny without meaning to be: With martinis like the “bubbleeau-seven” (peach and pineapple juices with vodka) and “the-big-eau” (vodka,
champagne and ice wine) costing C$13 to $18 (US$9.10–$13) apiece, there
must be some kind of joke afoot. But there is good news here: The kitchen does
a fine job with appetizers like blue-crab-and-avocado salad and entrees like
roasted duck breast drizzled with a glaze of sour cherry and bourbon. Furthermore, while the gorgeous staff do pose a bit, they are actually very sweet and
helpful.
609 King St. W. & 416/203-9399. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses C$27–$39
(US$19–$27). AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: St Andrew.
ECLECTIC Je pense que Le Cinquième n’est pas comme des
autres. Ah, pardon, was I just speaking French? I must have been confused by the
menu at The Fifth, which insists on listing all its plates en français and en anglais.
Crème Arlequin is translated as—get ready for this—crème Arlequin (no, I’m not
joking). Ça va? In fairness, though, the kitchen does serve stellar fare, like fluke
stuffed with scallop mousse. The delectable food and first-rate service attract an
upscale, chic crowd. Now if they could just fire the translator . . .
The Fifth
86
225 Richmond St. W. & 416/979-3005. www.easyandthefifth.com. Reservations required. 3-course prix-fixe
menu C$80 (US$56). Thurs–Sat 6pm–midnight. Subway: Osgoode.
ASIAN Monsoon is more famous for its award-winning interior
design than for its food. That’s a pity, because, while the brown-on-black
Zen-like setting and the fabulously flattering lighting are easy on the eye, the
cooking is subtly sensual. Sophisticated palates are familiar with Thai, Chinese,
Japanese, and Indian flavors, but it’s unusual to find them so seductively intertwined with North American staples—take for example the exquisite beef tenderloin in a Cabernet-teriyaki reduction that is teamed up with wasabi mashed
potatoes. The wine list runs the gamut from French Bordeaux to Australian
shiraz.
Monsoon
100 Simcoe St. & 416/979-7172. www.monsoonrestaurant.ca. Reservations required. Main courses
C$21–$37 (US$15–$26). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30pm–midnight. Subway: St.
Andrew.
FUSION If you visited Toronto a few years ago, you might have
had the good fortune to dine at an exquisite restaurant called Lotus. The eatery’s
chef and owner, Susur Lee, broke the hearts of the city’s foodies when he decided
to close it and travel abroad. After some stints in foreign kitchens—he got as far
away as Singapore—Lee is back and better than ever. Susur is a delight. For such
a high-end establishment, its decor is refreshingly low-key, with stark white walls
and oyster-pale upholstery warmed with colored lights. There is no pretension
here, in either the ambience or the fine service.
But the biggest draw is what’s on the plate. Lee serves stellar cuisine in the
true fusion spirit, blending Asian and Western ingredients, cooking methods,
and presentation. The menu changes frequently, with bold, savory offerings like
rare venison loin with Gorgonzola–haw berry–red wine sauce. The cooking is
complex, and the wine list, while pricey, has been put together with extreme
care. When in doubt, ask the well-informed serving staff for recommendations.
Susur
601 King St. W. & 416/603-2205. Reservations required. Main courses C$29–$43 (US$20–$30). AE, MC, V.
Mon–Sat 6–10pm. Subway: St. Andrew, then streetcar west to Bathurst St. and walk 1 block west to
Portland St.
Let’s be frank: Most
Overrated CONTINENTAL
people do not come here for the food. The view’s the thing, a breathtaking, aweinspiring panorama that will make you see the city in a new light. Unfortunately,
the kitchen doesn’t keep pace—it offers uninspiring fare like cold crab and
shrimp salad on Bibb lettuce. The highlight of the dessert list is a chocolate
rendition of the CN Tower. The wine list makes for interesting viewing, with its
collection of three-figure vintages, though there are a few choices by the glass.
360 Revolving Restaurant
CN Tower, 301 Front St. W. & 416/362-5411. Reservations required. Main courses C$25–$40 (US$18–$28).
AE, DC, MC, V. May–Sept daily 10:30am–2:30pm; year-round daily 4:30–10:30pm. Subway: Union.
CANADIAN A key element of the Hilton’s recent C$25 million
(US$18 million) renovation was the creation of this luxurious restaurant just off
its foyer. Sophisticated and opulent, the restaurant is designed to evoke elements
of the Canadian landscape. How does one suggest the majesty of, say, a giant
redwood? With columns wrapped in semi-transparent fabric and lit from
within, of course! (The stunning result is like a gargantuan Naguchi lamp.)
Every detail, from the one-armed wing chairs to the Frette linens, is beautifully
executed.
Tundra
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The sense of theater doesn’t stop with the design—the cuisine is just as artful.
Arctic char (a fish that’s often called a hybrid of salmon and trout) is paired with
Malapeque oysters and fried leeks; Nova Scotia lobster mates with tomatoavocado-bean salad and Yukon Gold potatoes. The results are elegantly complex.
While the wine list is exhaustive, don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations—
service is well informed and helpful.
Hilton Toronto, 145 Richmond St. W. & 416/860-6800. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses
C$28–$40 (US$20–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6:30–10:30am; Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; daily 5:30–11pm.
Subway: Osgoode.
INTERNATIONAL If you visited Toronto in 2001 or earlier, you
might have had the good fortune to dine at the Mercer Street Grill. While that
restaurant is no more, its owner, Simon Bower, has created a striking new spot
in YYZ. Named after the call letters of Toronto’s airport, the setting brings to
mind a futuristic lounge—all chrome, steel, and glass. While the palette veers to
the cool (unlike the city’s other modernist spaces, there’s not so much as a hint
of greenery to temper its android appeal), this is now home to some of the
hottest cooking in town. For starters, rare duck breast is paired with both spicy
ginger and sweet pineapple. The substantial mains, like the rack of lamb with a
celery-root-and-potato mash and mint purée, are artfully done. Do try to save
space for dessert: The warm pumpkin tart is a great way to finish.
YYZ
345 Adelaide St. W. & 416/599-3399. Reservations required. Main courses C$26–$34 (US$18–$24).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–10:30pm. Subway: Osgoode.
EXPENSIVE
Agora
MEDITERRANEAN I’m biased—restaurants attached to larger
institutions usually scare me off. Agora at the Art Gallery of Ontario is an exception. Located in the beautiful Tannenbaum sculpture gallery, and open only for
lunch and brunch, Agora serves food that’s inventive without being artsy. It’s
worth a trip even if you’re not visiting the gallery. The menu does have its precious moments, like “Still life with aubergine,” but the food is uniformly
delightful. Some dishes play it straight with a Continental flair, like grilled
niçoise-style tuna with French green beans. The weekend brunch glams up
scrambled eggs with fresh truffle shavings and chives; the cinnamon crepes with
an almond-ricotta filling and apricot coulis are a treat.
At the Art Gallery of Ontario, 317 Dundas St. W. & 416/977-0414. Reservations recommended for lunch.
Main courses C$12–$20 (US$8.40–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Sat–Sun 11am–3pm. Subway:
St. Patrick.
Blowfish Restaurant & Sake Bar
JAPANESE/SUSHI Taking its name
from a high-risk Japanese delicacy, this new hot spot only adds to the glamour of
King Street West. Tucked inside a former bank building whose soaring ceilings
lend the room true grandeur, this restaurant is a rare pleasure—just like the blowfish. Eateries in trendy areas come and go, but Blowfish’s impressive attention to
detail makes me hope that this one will be around for a while.
The menu features the expected sushi and sashimi, and the quality and presentation is uniformly excellent. But there are lots of other options, from the
starters (barbecued salmon skin and green salad make a stellar pair in peppery
dressing) to the mains (sea bass or black cod in a sweet miso marinade). Even
the free bowls of warm and salty edamame are delicious, and the service is
friendly and helpful. My one caveat to diners is to dine here on the early side,
since the restaurant transforms into a lounge at 11pm.
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668 King St. W. & 416/860-0606. www.blowfishrestaurant.com. Reservations strongly recommended.
Main courses C$14–$24 (US$9.80–$17). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5pm–2am. Subway: St Andrew, then streetcar
west to Bathurst.
Chiado PORTUGUESE Alone in this Mediterranean-obsessed part of town,
Chiado serves modern Portuguese cuisine. Designed to evoke opulence, with
marble floors, oil paintings, and fresh orchids, it draws a sophisticated crowd.
Servers are models of Euro professionalism, attentive without hovering. The
menu favors seafood, from starters—such as grilled squid with roasted
peppers—to entrees, such as poached or grilled salted cod. Fresh fish is flown in
daily. The fowl and game dishes include a choice of braised rabbit or capon.
Don’t skimp on the lovingly prepared sweets. The wine list is a treat. It includes
many unfamiliar but rich and complex wines, most priced in the bargain range.
484 College St. (at Concorde Ave.). & 416/538-1910. Reservations required. Main courses C$17–$30
(US$12–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight. Subway:
Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
INTERNATIONAL Not that I would ever counsel a visitor to stay
within the confines of his or her hotel, but this stunning restaurant at the Fairmont Royal York is definitely worth a visit. The scene here is one of unabashed
luxury, with velvety banquettes and Murano glass chandeliers. The attentive
service is in keeping with the elegant atmosphere—don’t come here if you don’t
want to be pampered.
The menu holds up its end of the deal, with luxurious ingredients that are
cleverly matched up. The starters set the tone—think Dungeness crab salad with
Segruva caviar, or a seafood tower that is built with the freshest lobster, scallops,
and oysters. Mains are equally well turned out, varying from truffle and
polenta–stuffed pheasant with asparagus and shallots, to the morel-crusted venison loin with seared Quebec foie gras. One of my favorite dishes—the tempurafried halibut and hand-cut fries (an upscale version of fish ’n’ chips)—is available
only at lunch.
Epic
Fairmont Royal York, 100 Front St. W. & 416/860-6949. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$22–$34 (US$15–$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10am, noon–2pm, 5:30–10pm (till 11pm on Fri); Sat 7–
11am and 5:30–11pm; Sun 7am–2pm and 5:30–10pm. Subway: Union.
Far Niente
AMERICAN A hangout favored by the suited set, this
restaurant offers fine cuisine in a casual setting. The room recalls California,
with an earthy palette, mounds of greenery, wine racks, and simple wooden
tables and chairs. The kitchen uses garden-fresh ingredients and a light touch.
The menu designates many staples—including tuna steak, grilled salmon, and
even a Caesar salad—as “living well” dishes, which have reduced fat, cholesterol,
and calories. You might try Sonoma spinach salad with cherry tomatoes, button
mushrooms, and bean sprouts; the pumpkin ravioli with cranberries and pecans
in apple cider butter sauce; or the skillet-seared sea bass in a saffron-vanilla sauce
with ginger-scented veggies and mashed Yukon Gold potatoes. Steaks are a specialty, with filet mignon and New York strip loin available in 6- to 14-ounce
cuts.
Downstairs is Soul of the Vine, a wine bar that has its own menu, mainly
appetizers and pasta. The room can get loud and smoky, so serious eaters should
stay upstairs.
187 Bay St. (at Wellington St.). & 416/214-9922. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$18–$36
(US$13–$25). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat–Sun 5–11pm. Subway: King.
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Jump Cafe & Bar
AMERICAN Jump is, appropriately enough, always
hopping. A sprawling space in Commerce Court, it can be tricky to find. Just
follow the buzz—as the decibel level rises (above romantic, but not uncomfortable), you’ll know you’re on the right track. Power brokers drop by for lunch or
after-work drinks. The dinner scene is a mix of celebratory couples and suits in
deal-making mode. The restaurant is such a see-and-be-seen spot that you might
suspect it’s all show and no substance. Actually, the food is anything but an afterthought. To start, consider steamed mussels in ginger-and-coconut-milk broth,
or grilled tiger shrimps on Thai mango-peanut salad. The menu features “suitable” dishes like grilled 10-ounce New York Black Angus steak with Yukon Gold
fries, salsa, and mushroom gravy. The more adventurous have other choices,
such as roasted sea bass with fragrant coconut basmati rice and green curry, or
osso buco with spinach-and-lemon risotto. The wine list favors the New World,
and there are a fair number of selections by the glass. Luxe desserts will set your
diet back by about a month. Service is smooth, and the only complaint I could
possibly make is that Jump never seems to settle down.
1 Wellington St. W. & 416/363-3400. Reservations required. Main courses C$19–$32 (US$13–$22). AE, DC,
MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 4:30–11pm. Subway: King.
Lai Wah Heen
CHINESE This is one hotel dining room where you’ll
find more locals than visitors. The interior is vintage Art Deco; spare pictograms
dominate the walls of the two-level space. A suited-up crowd dominates at
lunch; at dinner, a few dolled-up couples manage to sneak in. The massive menu
is mainly Cantonese, with some Szechwan specialties. It offers more than a
dozen shark’s fin soups, from thick broth with bamboo fungi to Alaska king crab
bisque. Abalone gets similar attention, shredded and stir-fried with bean sprouts
or braised with fresh vegetables and oyster sauce. Those with tamer tastes
(or restricted budgets) can choose from meat or noodle dishes; the dim sum list
alone goes on for several pages. There are several lunch and dinner prix-fixe
specials, which offer five or six dishes for C$38 (US$27) and up.
In the Metropolitan Hotel, 110 Chestnut St. & 416/977-9899. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$16–$30 (US$11–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm; Sun–Thurs 5:30–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm.
Subway: St. Patrick.
Oro CONTINENTAL
The trappings of modern luxury set the scene, with
blond wood, a tile floor, and a substantial fireplace that warms that room (figuratively if not always literally). In its Eaton Centre neighborhood, Oro is
uniquely sophisticated. Softly lit tables sit far apart—this is the perfect spot
for a romantic rendezvous. The menu ventures further and further from its
Italianate roots, with showstoppers like West-meets-East hoisin-tamarind glazed
pork tenderloin accompanied by cumin-scented red onion purée. Desserts like
the white chocolate cheesecake bombe are equally delightful. The lengthy wine
list leans toward Italy and America, with only a select few by the glass. The oftpraised service is relaxed but attentive.
45 Elm St. & 416/597-0155. www.ororestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$18–$40 (US$13–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: Dundas.
Rain ASIAN One of Toronto’s newest hot spots, Rain has gained a certain
notoriety for employing a bouncer at the door; word has it that the bouncer
determines who’s chic enough to make it into this den of cool, reservations be
damned. The Toronto Star’s restaurant critic was turned away, despite having a
reservation; most famously, pop star Nelly Furtado was refused entry to her own
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private party (the restaurant’s owners refuse to discuss the incident). You either
love it or you hate it—Rain evokes strong emotions. Everyone agrees that the
decor is a seductive hit, with its waterfall walls, backlit frosted-glass bars and
screens, and sophisticated low black banquettes. The menu is equally sleek,
albeit a tad confusing: Instead of dividing appetizers from entrees, it jumbles
dishes together, with only their price tags indicating their relative size. The cooking is lovely, with some standouts like five-spice Peking duck roll, and miso
black cod atop tatsoi greens. While the service is adequate, it’s a little clunky for
such a swank place.
19 Mercer St. & 416/599-7246. Reservations required. Main courses C$10–$30 (US$7–$21). AE, MC, V.
Tues–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: St. Andrew.
Senses
INTERNATIONAL Harry Wu, who already has two excellent
restaurants–—Lai Wah Heen (p. 89) and Hemispheres–—at the Metropolitan
Hotel, is the man behind this venture, which is located at his new SoHo Metropolitan Hotel (p. 56). Senses encompasses a bakery, and a gourmet food
emporium (see p. 186 in chapter 8). Dining here is an experience for—what
else?—all the senses. The serene sandy tones are serious eye candy, the background music soothes, and velvety banquettes rub you the right way. Smell and
taste get revved up for starters like the Spanish goat cheese empanada with olives
and beet-root salad. The main-dish squab breasts with prawn sausage and wild
rice pancake is beautifully executed. Service is extremely well informed and professional.
At the SoHo Metropolitan, 318 Wellington St. W. & 416/961-0055. www.senses.ca. Reservations strongly
recommended. Main courses C$19–$46 (US$13–$32). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sat
11:30am–3pm; Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Subway: St. Andrew.
Xacutti
INDIAN There are a lot of reasons to love Xacutti (pronounced
sha-koo-tee). One is that it brings a new and exotic flavor to the well-traveled
Little Italy restaurant strip. Another is that the Indian-inspired cuisine is just so
beautifully executed. Starters include galangal prawns in a lime-mint curry or
baby greens in a kumquat vinaigrette; mains range from cardamom-smoked
lamb with mango chutney and ginger frites to pan-fried cod with new potatoes,
spinach and coconut-tomato curry. The weekend brunch menu is just as excellent, though it veers away from Indian food, serving up treats like blueberry
pancakes with maple syrup and Devonshire cream or a wild-mushroom-andgoat-cheese omelet. The thoughtful service matches the cuisine.
503 College St. & 416/323-3957. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses C$17–$34
(US$12–$24). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6:30pm–1am; Sat 10:30am–2pm; Sun 10:30am–3pm. Subway: Queen’s
Park, then streetcar west to Palmerston.
MODERATE
Brassaii
This is my favorite
Value BISTRO/INTERNATIONAL
among the Toronto restaurants that opened in 2003. Named for a 1920s French
photographer—his black-and-white prints adorn the walls—Brassaii offers a
picture-perfect setting. The long, cavernous dining room is decorated in dusky
grey and black, and tall vases stand in the windows, each holding a single longstemmed calla lily. The effect feels much like being inside a photograph, and the
flattering lighting from the halogen spotlights that hang from the ceiling only
enhance this image. Still, on King Street West these days, everyone looks cool
(Eau, Blowfish, and others). But Brassaii still manages to stand out by offering
both excellent cooking and brilliant service—and doing so for prices that are
lower than most of its competition in the area. The kitchen really knows its stuff.
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While the menu frequently changes, it might include entrees such as braised
duck atop lentils and spinach, or shoulder of lamb with chickpeas and tomato.
The desserts are not to be missed, particularly the elegant apple crumble with
berries and caramel ice cream. The wine list is substantial, and there are some
very good vintages available by the glass. Still, my favorite drink here is the Brassaii martini, which blends a couple of types of fruit juice with 7-Up and vodka.
I know it sounds bizarre, but it’s a deliciously sweet drink.
One more thing: Also unlike its competition, Brassaii is open for breakfast,
lunch and dinner. Bon appétit, indeed.
461 King St. W. & 416/598-4730. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–$22 (US$9.80–$15).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 7am–11pm; Sun 11am–10pm. Subway: St. Andrew, then streetcar west to Spadina Ave.
CONTINENTAL The Lilliputian dining room is cramped,
the menu is the shortest in the city, and yet the crowds can’t stay away. Why?
Simply because the food is seductive. The trick is in the unusual marriages of
fruits and vegetables flavoring many of the dishes. Rosti and rhubarb compote
enliven a veal chop, and it turns out that grilled calamari tastes better with citrus fruit. Who knew? The highlight of the triad of desserts is chocolate mousse
with heavy cream and paper-thin pear shavings.
Café Societa
796 College St. & 416/588-7490. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$12–$21 (US$8.40–$15).
MC, V. Sat–Sun 11am–3pm; daily 6–11pm. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Ossington Ave.
Cities BISTRO
This charming bistro, where a rococo Elvis presides over the
bar, personifies the pleasures and problems of metropolitan life. It’s overcrowded—19 tables for two cram the narrow room, forcing neighbors to rub
elbows. The food, however, makes it all worthwhile. The menu is deliberately
short, allowing the kitchen to focus hothouse-flower care on its featured selections:
rack of lamb, Atlantic salmon, veal tenderloin. Starters, like three-mushroom
salad, get equal attention.
859 Queen St. W. & 416/599-7720. Main courses C$12–$20 (US$8.40–$14). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm
and 5–10:30pm. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
Citron ECLECTIC At once chic and attitude-free, Citron draws casual but
hip 20-somethings. The menu borrows heavily from every corner of the globe,
favoring seafood and vegetarian offerings. North African couscous stew, TexMex lasagna, and Thai-spiced salmon compete for attention. For dessert, my
sweet-tooth side recommends the divine white chocolate cheesecake.
813 Queen St. W. & 416/504-2647. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$12–$20 (US$8.40–$14).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
Crush BISTRO This lively new spot is another reason that King Street West
is now a major foodie destination. Crush is part bistro and part wine bar, and its
atmosphere is appropriately convivial. The high-ceilinged, warehouse-like space
has a huge open kitchen, so you can be entertained by the goings-on that are usually kept behind the scenes. Better still, you can be impressed by the results: The
goat-cheese-and-tomato napoleon or the mussels on the half-shell topped with
escargot butter make great opening acts. The juicy pork chop in Madeira sauce is
a star is its own right. The wine list is diverse, with many varieties available by the
glass (you can even choose whether to have a 3-ounce or 5-ounce serving, a boon
for oenophiles who want to try new things). Service is smooth and obliging, making this a great place to go if you’re planning on catching a show at one of the
nearby theaters. The only potential problem with Crush is the decibel level: This
is a lively spot, and warehouse spaces aren’t known for great acoustics.
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455 King St. W. & 416/977-1234. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–$25 (US$9.80–$18).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–10:30pm; Sat 5–10:30pm; Sun 5–10pm. Subway: St. Andrew, then streetcar west
to Spadina Ave.
Ecco La ITALIAN
Tiny trattorias litter Little Italy, but Ecco La stands out.
The rustic dining room is all red brick and ochre walls, with a wood-burning
pizza oven as the centerpiece. Arugula and smoked salmon make a good match
for robust tomatoes and Parmesan. There’s also pasta (rigatoni goes nicely with
wild mushrooms, sage cream, and truffle essence), and tender, meaty main
dishes, which include capon and salmon. The menu always offers a vegetarian
risotto, too. Desserts are strictly for chocolate lovers.
356 College St. & 416/926-9899. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$21 (US$7–$15).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–1am; Sat–Sun 4pm–1am. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to
Brunswick Ave.
Fortune Cookie
Gourmet it isn’t, but I really do like Fortune
Kids ASIAN
Cookie. Why? For starters, it’s one of the best deals in the Entertainment District: For C$23 (US$16) per person (or C$10/US$7 for children 9 and under),
you can order whatever you want from a 39-item tasting menu. You can also
order as much as you like, so while the portions do tend to be small, you can get
more of the General Tao chicken or the deep-fried spring rolls if you want. It’s
also a great way of getting around the problem of trying new things: If you
always get the orange beef, here’s your chance to try it and a slew of other dishes,
too. The wait staff are friendly and helpful, even when you keep sending them
back for more . . . and more . . . and more . . .
291 King St. W. & 416/599-9995. Reservations recommended. Tasting menu C$23 (US$16) per person
(C$10/US$7 for children 9 and under). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat
noon–11pm. Subway: St. Andrew.
La Bodega FRENCH
This is a quiet spot infused with Gallic charm. In a
turn-of-the-20th-century town house, La Bodega is a short walk from the Art
Gallery of Ontario. The two dining rooms have fireplaces, and tapestries and
gilt-framed mirrors line the walls. The menu is traditional French, with a focus
on meats. Grilled beef tenderloin soaks up cognac sauce, and duck breast mixes
well with wild blueberries. The wine list boasts some Bordeaux grandes dames,
and there’s a nice mix of Ontario vintages, too.
30 Baldwin St. & 416/977-1287. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$15–$27 (US$11–$19).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: St. Patrick.
BISTRO This is a terrific, offbeat addition to the Kensington
Market neighborhood. It’s so good, in fact, that you almost wonder why no one
else ever thought of locating a classic French bistro on the edge of Chinatown.
A quartet of Gallic flags announces its presence; inside, the 30-seat dining room
is cozy and informal, with considerate, low-key service. The menu is classic,
from ballantine of chicken stuffed with peppers and rice to lamb chops with a
crusty coating of mustard and rosemary. If you’re as much as a dessert fiend as
I am, save room for irresistible citron tart and dark chocolate cake.
La Palette
256 Augusta Ave. & 416/929-4900. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$18 (US$7–$13).
AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–11pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight. Subway: St. Patrick, then streetcar west to
Augusta Ave.
Le Sélect Bistro BISTRO What says Paris bistro to you? Le Sélect sets the
tone with posters, decorative objects straight from grand-mère’s attic, and sultry
jazz in the background. Breadbaskets hang from the ceiling above each table,
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Kids Family-Friendly Restaurants
Fortune Cookie (p. 92) The food offerings in the Entertainment District grow ever more sophisticated—a great thing, unless you’re looking for a place to take the small fry. The all-you-can-order 39-item
tasting menu is a mere C$9.95 (US$7) for children 9 and under.
Grano (p. 113) Don’t worry that a noisy babe-in-arms might disrupt
diners—this lively, slightly chaotic eatery welcomes families. The owners have four kids, and they love to fuss over the bambini.
Kensington Kitchen (p. 106) Whimsically decorated, with colorful
toys and model airplanes. It seems to be easier to get kids to eat their
greens when veggies are tucked into pita sandwiches, like the ones
here.
Millie’s Bistro (p. 112) This is a perennially popular spot with families.
There’s a special menu for tykes, and most of the Mediterranean food
can be eaten without cutlery.
Shopsy’s (p. 100) When the kids are sick of eating out and craving
comfort food, this is where to take them. Home-style chili and macaroni and cheese hit the spot, and ice cream dominates a whole section
of the menu.
and require gentle coaxing to reach the diners. The menu emphasizes traditional
rib-sticking fare such as steak frites and cassoulet, all nicely done. The service can
be a trifle slow, but the casually dressed professionals don’t seem to mind.
328 Queen St. W. & 416/596-6405. www.leselect.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$13–$33 (US$9.10–$23). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11:30pm. Subway: Osgoode.
Mildred Pierce
ECLECTIC Named after a Joan Crawford film, this
restaurant is appropriately theatrical. Murals of a Roman feast cover the walls
(a local in-joke, they depict characters including the restaurant’s owner). The
menu fits right in, rich in inspiration and dramatic flourishes borrowed from
different countries. Grilled salmon accompanies saffron risotto and a ragout of
fennel, baby beets, and bok choy, while a Thai hot pot boasts tiger shrimp, scallops, mussels, and clams brewing in a coconut-lime-cilantro sauce. The short
wine list includes options from Italy, Spain, South Africa, and California. Lush
desserts include maple crème brûlée, and a rustic cranberry and walnut tart.
99 Sudbury St. & 416/588-5695. Reservations recommended; not accepted for Sun brunch. Main courses
C$17–$26 (US$12–$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2pm; Sun 10am–3pm; Sun–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat
5:30–11pm. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Dovercourt; walk south on Dovercourt and turn
right at Sudbury.
Peter Pan LIGHT FARE When I was in high school, Peter Pan was the classy
restaurant you went to for pre-prom dinner or a big date. The crowd at this fun,
relaxed place is forever young, easily impressed by the old-fashioned bar, everchanging art exhibits, and friendly service. The menu is awash in Eurasian foodspeak; simpler dishes are best. The Peter Pan burger is always a top choice.
Desserts are strictly for sweet tooths.
373 Queen St. W. & 416/593-0917. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$18 (US$7–$13).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed noon–midnight; Thurs–Sat noon–1am; Sun noon–11pm. Subway: Osgoode.
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Pony BISTRO On the periphery of hyper-trendy Little Italy, Pony is nevertheless the kind of place where you can relax. The candlelit dining room is
charming, the upholstered chairs are comfy, and the service is smooth. The
menu sticks mainly to bistro classics, such as roasted chicken stuffed with prosciutto, smoked mozzarella, and apple slices. The Caesar salad has the creamiest
dressing in town—even a devoted calorie-counter won’t be able to resist.
488 College St. & 416/923-7665. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–$25 (US$11–$18).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Bathurst.
Rodney’s Oyster House SEAFOOD A favorite with the Financial District
set, Rodney’s is rowdy at all times of day. The setting is as unpretentious as you
could find: Think lobster traps dangling from the ceiling and fishing nets hanging across the walls. The main draw is the incredibly fresh oysters, and the
lobster and salmon dishes are worth more than a look.
469 King St. W. & 416/363-8105. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–$40 (US$11–$28).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–midnight. Subway: St. Andrew.
Sang Ho CHINESE/SEAFOOD There’s no end of eateries in the eastern
end of Chinatown, but Sang Ho will be the one with the longest queue out front.
The restaurant boasts not only a top-notch kitchen, but also a lovely dining room
filled with several teeming aquariums. The regular menu of 100-plus dishes never
changes; wall-mounted boards list many specials of the day. Seafood—shrimp,
clams, or red snapper—is the obvious choice. Service is speedy and responsive.
Try to go on a weeknight, when there’s no more than a short wait for a table.
536 Dundas St. W. & 416/596-1685. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$8–$18 (US$5.60–$13).
MC, V. Sun–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–11pm. Subway: St. Patrick.
Swan ECLECTIC The room brings to mind a retro soda fountain, with a
counter and swirly stools on one side, and booths with Formica tables on the
other. Just don’t expect to find a strawberry-banana float on the menu. The
youngish hipsters who congregate here slurp up martinis and oysters. Happily,
the menu avoids the trendy trap, managing both roasted capon with bourbon
gravy and corn fritters, and braised beef short ribs marinated in beer and marmalade. There’s a nice selection of wines, almost all available by the glass. The
popular weekend brunch features the usual eggy plates as well as some surprises:
spicy Moroccan olives or smoked arctic char salad, anyone?
892 Queen St. W. & 416/532-0452. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$15–$20 (US$11–$14).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–4:30pm; Sun–Fri 5–10:30pm; Sat 5–11pm; Sat–Sun 11:30am–2:30pm. Subway:
Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Euclid Ave.
ECLECTIC Pass through the curtain hanging at the door, and
enter a hip new world. Actually, it’s not that new, but the Taro Grill has something that most hot spots of the moment can’t claim—staying power. Its secret?
A mix of clever cooking, helpful service, and a glamorous high-ceilinged space.
The menu refuses to be easily characterized. Just when you think you’ve pegged
the Cal-Ital pizza-pasta-salad triad, out of the blue comes tempura veggies or
Asian-influenced New Zealand lamb. Affordable bottles, mainly from Australia
and South Africa, fill the wine list.
Taro Grill
492 Queen St. W. & 416/504-1320. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$13–$20 (US$9.10–$14).
AE, MC, V. Daily noon–4pm and 6–10pm. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
ITALIAN/FUSION This is Little Italy’s brightest new
addition, a little gem that serves delicious food in a swanky setting—but, unlike
Veni Vidi Vici
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many of its neighborhood cousins, it does so without attitude. I like it even better than established neighborhood favorite Ecco La. There’s no sign outside, just
a gilt-covered fresco of a mustachioed deity looming over the doorway. Inside,
the staff is quick to usher diners to high-backed velvet banquettes.
The menu can be divided into two parts. On the Italian side, there are pasta
dishes such as linguine with mixed seafood, or risotto with portobello, cremini,
and porcini mushrooms. But the Asian-inspired fusion plates are the showstoppers: Think cashew-studded sea bass with fennel, or phyllo-wrapped salmon
with basmati rice. Desserts return to the classics, like crème brûlée with fresh
berries. The wine list is particularly strong in Italian reds.
650 College St. (at Grace St.). & 416/536-8550. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$13–$25
(US$9.10–$18). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11am–3pm and 5pm–midnight. Subway: Queen’s Park, then streetcar
west to Grace St.
INEXPENSIVE
Happy Seven CHINESE
This eatery boasts kitschy touches like plastic Buddhas and a tank full of fish and crawly critters. They may not be everybody’s cup
of (green) tea, but the kitchen is widely acknowledged as one of the best in Chinatown. The menu is classic Cantonese, with a few Szechwan choices. Seafood
dishes are a favorite, though there are many plates for vegetarians; portions are
extremely generous.
358 Spadina Ave. & 416/971-9820. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$7–$15 (US$4.90–$11).
MC, V. Daily 4pm–5am. Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Baldwin St.
Kalendar
LIGHT FARE I can’t go to this restaurant without snickering
at the menu, but the food inspires satisfied sighs. There are sandwiches stuffed
with portobello mushrooms, havarti, and roasted red peppers, and five
“scrolls”—phyllo pastries filled with delights like artichoke hearts, eggplant, and
hummus. The “nannettes” (pizzas) are baked nan breads topped with ingredients
like smoked salmon, capers, and red onions. The ambience recalls a French
bistro. In summer the sidewalk patio is just the place to sit and watch the world.
546 College St. (just west of Bathurst St.). & 416/923-4138. Main courses C$10–$13 (US$7–$9.10). MC,
V. Mon–Fri 11am–4pm. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
Lee Garden CHINESE If lines are a measure of the success of a restaurant,
then Lee Garden is, deservedly, the hands-down Toronto champ. The draw is a
Cantonese menu weighted heavily toward seafood. Although there’s no shark
fin, there’s no shortage of shrimp, lobster, and cod. The signature dish is forktender grandfather smoked chicken with honey and sesame seeds. The kitchen
works wonders with tofu, too.
331 Spadina Ave. & 416/593-9524. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$10–$22 (US$7–$15).
AE, MC, V. Daily 4pm–midnight. Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Baldwin St.
Penelope GREEK
If you’re in a rush to see a show at the Royal Alex or Roy
Thomson Hall, this is one of your best bets. Give the friendly staff an hour or
less, and they will stuff you with spanakopita, moussaka, or souvlaki. This is the
home of hearty food in a hurry.
225 King St. W. & 416/351-9393. Reservations recommended for pre-theater dinner. Main courses
C$13–$22 (US$9.10–$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–10pm, Thurs–Fri 11:30am–11:30pm, Sat
4:30–11:30pm. Subway: St. Andrew.
Queen Mother Cafe ASIAN Fussy dowager this is not. Beloved by vegetarians,
trend-hoppers, and reformed hippies, the Queen Mum is a Queen Street West
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institution with old-fashioned wooden furnishings and an underlit interior. The
menu’s lengthy descriptions are required reading. “Ping Gai” turns out to be
chicken breast marinated in garlic, coriander, and peppercorns, served with lime
sauce atop steamed rice. “Salmon Sottha” is served with hotter-than-hot Cambodian chile sauce and black rice. The menu is anything but pricey, so the wine list is
a surprise, with few bargains in sight.
208 Queen St. W. & 416/598-4719. Reservations accepted only for groups of 6 or more. Main courses
C$11–$18 (US$7.70–$13). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–1am. Subway: Osgoode.
FUSION The Riv is better known as a club than as a
restaurant—the 125-seat back room plays host to live music, stand-up comics, and
poetry readings. What most people don’t know is that the kitchen is just as creative.
Chicken marinated in jerk spices comes with sautéed spinach and plantain chips;
mussels are steamed in green curry jazzed up with coconut and lime. The less
adventurous can partake of the spinach-and-pear salad or the house burger (beef on
a challah bun with caramelized onions). The low prices draw a mixed crowd of
starving artists, budget-conscious boomers, and Gen-Xers. One caveat: If you’re
planning to talk over dinner, get there before the back room starts filling up.
The Rivoli
332 Queen St. W. & 416/597-0794. www.rivoli.ca. Reservations accepted only for groups of 6 or more.
Main courses C$9–$19 (US$6.30–$13). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–2am. Subway: Osgoode.
Sottovoce LIGHT FARE
The name of this tiny eatery is more than a little
misleading. Sotto (soft) it isn’t. Forget trying to have a conversation and instead
try to score one of the window seats, which afford a full view of College Street.
The youngish crowd that mills in after 7pm enjoys the pumped-up music that
refuses to stay in the background. In the middle of this frenetic scene you will
find the most lovingly prepared, and least expensive, salads and focaccia sandwiches in town. There are daily pasta specials, and many wines by the glass.
595 College St. & 416/536-4564. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$6–$12 (US$4.20–$8.40).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Clinton St.
Tortilla Flats TEX-MEX
Park your fear of sour cream and oil at the door,
because it will spoil the fun. The dining room is all riotous color and Southwestern knickknacks; think Georgia O’Keeffe meets Salvador Dalí. The crowd
is mainly 20- to 30-somethings, and a number of boomers come for the weekend brunch and the best frozen margaritas in town. The menu never changes,
though there are some daily specials. Potato skins piled high with bacon and
sharp cheddar are at the top of my list; the enchilada and chimichurri platters,
which include rice, salad, and refried beans, are pretty satisfying, too.
429 Queen St. W. & 416/593-9870. Reservations accepted only for groups of 5 or more. Main courses
C$8–$20 (US$5.60–$14). MC, V. Sun–Wed noon–10pm; Thurs–Sat noon–11pm. Subway: Osgoode, then any
streetcar west to Spadina Ave.
3 Downtown East
EXPENSIVE
BISTRO The same team that created a trio of excellent eateries
with Jump, Canoe, and Auberge du Pommier have been hard at work again. The
intent this time was to create a classic bistro, with dishes priced somewhat lower
than at the other establishments (in keeping with true bistro tradition, naturellement). The setting hits all the right notes, with wood paneling and potted palms
among the cozy-but-chic touches. The menu is equally fine, with pan-fried
halibut covered with a second skin of thinly sliced potatoes, and traditional roast
Biff’s
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leg of lamb. The prime downtown location is a boon for Financial District types
at lunch and theatergoers in the evening (the St. Lawrence and the Hummingbird centers are a stone’s throw away).
4 Front St. E. (at Yonge St.). & 416/860-0086. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses
C$18–$28 (US$13–$20). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: Union or
King.
Courthouse Market Grille INTERNATIONAL This hangout for the
suited set boasts gargantuan fluted columns, sky-high ceilings, swinging chandeliers, and miles of marble. Pretty good for an 1850 building that used to be a
jail. Financial District types lap it up, along with generous martinis. The menu
features grilled and rotisserie meats of excellent quality, though timid seasoning
will not please daring palates. Appetizers are uniformly fine, with simple but
well-executed numbers like steamed Prince Edward Island mussels in creamy
white wine sauce. The wine list includes some impressive vintages—and prices.
57 Adelaide St. E. & 416/214-9379. Reservations required. Main courses C$15–$32 (US$11–$22). AE, DC,
MC, V. Mon–Wed 11:30am–10pm; Thurs–Fri 11:30am–midnight; Sat 5:30pm–midnight. Subway: King.
Hiro Sushi JAPANESE/SUSHI Widely regarded as the best sushi chef in
the city, Hiro Yoshida draws a horde of Financial District types at lunch and
mainly couples at dinner. The monochromatic setting is comfortably minimalist, and diners are encouraged to relax and leave their meal in Hiro’s capable
hands. The sushi varieties range from the expected to the inventive; you can also
choose sashimi, tempura, and bento box combinations. Service can be rather
slow. Forget the few wines listed in favor of sake or beer.
171 King St. E. & 416/304-0550. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–$30 (US$14–$21).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 6–10:30pm. Subway: King.
INTERNATIONAL This triple-decked pleasure dome is packed almost every night with dressed-up diners who pass the time
checking each other out. Personally, I’m still caught on the scenery: Marble,
moldings, and a waterfall make quite the impression. So does the menu, which
casually tours the globe. First up are delectables like carpaccio of seared caribou
with a citrus-gin relish. Main courses include roast sirloin of lamb with parsnip
gratin and hazelnut sauce, and coq au vin with butternut squash. The can’t-miss
desserts include rhubarb apple crisp with a vanilla-plum sorbet. The serious
wine list focuses mainly on France and California, with some excellent Ontario
vintages.
Rosewater Supper Club
19 Toronto St. (at Adelaide). & 416/214-5888. Reservations required. Main courses C$20–$32 (US$14–
$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm and 5:30–10:30pm; Sat 5:30–11:30pm. Subway: King.
Torch Bistro BISTRO The Senator Restaurant brought back the days when
red meat, rich food, and cigar smoking weren’t considered a threat to one’s
health. It closed in 2000 to make way for the Torch Bistro, a paean to the classic French bistro. The decor is much the same, with etched-glass doors and
heavy wood paneling, but the menu is entirely new: Dishes include smoked
duck breast with shiitake mushroom risotto, or grilled provimi calves liver with
braised red cabbage and crispy pancetta. Upstairs, things haven’t changed at all:
There’s jazz at the glamorous Top O’ the Senator (p. 208), and the Victory
Lounge for cigar aficionados.
249 Victoria St. & 416/364-7517. Reservations required. Main courses C$16–$36 (US$11–$25). AE, DC,
MC, V. Tues–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight; Sun 5–10pm. Subway: Dundas.
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Tips Savory Surfing
Trying to decide between two equally tantalizing restaurants? Why
not sneak a peek at their menus online? The websites listed here will
give you different perspectives on the city’s eateries.
• TorDine (www.tordine.com): This award-winning site purports to be
the best Toronto dining guide. You’ll find restaurant reviews
penned by average food-loving folks, as well as coupons and special
deals. You can search the directory by name, food type, or price, and
you can make reservations online. Each entry gives descriptive
details, from dress codes to wheelchair access.
• Toronto.com (www.toronto.com): This site boasts a lot of features,
but its restaurant reviews are the biggest draw for me. A photo or
two usually accompanies the reviews, to give you a sense of what
that space is like.
• Toronto Life Online (www.torontolife.com): Look to this magazine’s
“Best of T.O.” section to learn where to find the city’s best bets for
gelato, falafel, or panini. The site also offers a section filled with
reviews of just about every restaurant around town. There’s a C$25
(US$18) Gourmet Guide for those who want to dine well without
breaking the bank.
ZooM Caffe & Bar INTERNATIONAL Perhaps because its design is so
striking, ZooM has had some trouble being taken seriously as a restaurant.
Located in the space of a long-gone bank, it has a vaulted ceiling, velvet lounges,
and halogen lighting—a lovely setting for the Beautiful People. Its oft-overlooked menu is short but to the point. It features creations like taro
root–encrusted foie gras as a starter, and a main course of “wonder spiced” lamb
loin with smoked corn polenta and plantains. Desserts are less esoteric, though
no less satisfying (I can’t resist the chocolate mud pie). On the wine list, bargains
are in short supply. And this is the spot for private parties, so be sure to call
ahead.
18 King St. E. & 416/861-9872. www.zoomrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$18–$36 (US$13–$25). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Tues 5–11pm; Wed–Sat 5pm–midnight.
Subway: King.
MODERATE
HotHouse Cafe CONTINENTAL/LIGHT FARE
When restaurants make
the claim of having “something for everyone,” I usually run the other way. But
the HotHouse Café is an exception. The exhaustive menu ranges from salads to
pizzas, omelets to pastas, and burgers to vegetarian mains, and they do a nice job
with it all. (Don’t expect complicated fare here—the HotHouse keeps things
simple, which is a very wise move when offering so much.) The restaurant is
famous for its Sunday buffet brunch, which at C$16 (US$11) per person is
a good value if you’re in the mood to indulge: there are made-to-order omelet
stations, lots of options, and live jazz music.
35 Church St. & 416/366-7800. Reservations strongly recommended, particularly for Sunday brunch. Main
courses C$10–$20 (US$7–$14). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Tue 11am–10:30pm; Wed–Thurs 11am–midnight.
Subway: King or Union.
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Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club QUEBECOIS
Ontario and Quebec share a
border, but it’s no mean feat to find top-notch tourtière (traditional beef, veal,
and pork pie) in Toronto. Anyone who craves Quebecois staples like pea soup
and smoked-meat sandwiches can return their train ticket and stop at this bistro.
Besides being a restaurant, this is one of the city’s premier jazz clubs, so you can
écouter while you manger.
65 Sherbourne St. (at Adelaide). & 416/363-0179. www.montrealbistro.com. Reservations recommended.
Main courses C$10–$22 (US$7–$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 6–11pm; Fri–Sat
6pm–midnight. Subway: King, then any streetcar east to Sherbourne St.
Terroni ITALIAN/LIGHT FARE
From its humble beginnings on Queen
Street West, Terroni has grown into a local mini-chain with three locations. The
setting is informal, with kitchen-style tables and chairs and a wall-mounted
chalkboard that heralds the daily specials. The antipasti, salads, and pizzas,
essentially the same at all three locations, are uniformly delightful. They range
from the simplest margherita pizza (tomato, mozzarella, basil) to a gourmet
salad of cooked oyster mushrooms drizzled with balsamic vinegar and served
atop a bed of arugula. The two other locations are at 720 Queen St. W. and
1 Balmoral Ave.
106 Victoria St.
Subway: Queen.
& 416/955-0258. Main courses C$10–$18 (US$7–$13). MC, V. Mon–Sat 9am–10pm.
This is a dream-come-true: Hidden behind a simple
Finds BISTRO
whitewashed facade, Wish is a charmer that offers cozy ambience, excellent
cooking and friendly service (a rare combination in this neighborhood). In summer, the vibrant patio might draw you to it, but during the rest of the year you
have to wait till you’re through the front door before you’re seduced by the setting, which is dominated by white-slipcovered couches, plush cushions and
baroque details—very shabby chic. The menu is just as elegant, with starters
such as Pernod-glazed calamari. Mains run the gamut from meat and fish to
pasta and risotto. Note that the dessert selection is very limited, as is the wine
list.
Wish
3 Charles St. E. & 416/935-0240. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–$25 (US$9.80–$18).
AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–2am. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
INEXPENSIVE
Hello Toast LIGHT FARE Humorist Fran Lebowitz once asked why there
were places called Bonjour Croissant but not Hello Toast. Well, now there is.
Gleaming toasters and retro furniture bedeck the kitschy dining room. The
menu is a mix of pizza and pasta specials, with a few salads, soups, and rich
desserts mixed in. If you’re springing for toast, choose the inspired challah.
993 Queen St. E. & 416/778-7299. Main courses C$7–$15 (US$4.90–$11). MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–10pm.
Subway: Queen, then any streetcar east to Pape Ave.
Le Papillon QUEBECOIS
If you thought crepes were simply for breakfast,
stop by Le Papillon for re-education. While there are many fruit-filled numbers,
the best are savory crepes, which combine, for example, bacon, apples, and
cheddar. Created from a mixture of white and buckwheat flour, the crepes make
a satisfying lunch. For dinner, add some onion soup and a green salad, or go for
tourtière, a traditional Quebecois pie that includes beef, veal, and pork.
16 Church St. (between Front St. E. and Esplanade). & 416/363-0838. www.lepapillon.ca. Reservations
recommended. Crepes C$6–$10 (US$4.20–$7). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Tues–Wed 5–10pm;
Thurs 5–11pm; Fri 5pm–midnight; Sat 11am–midnight; Sun 11am–10pm. Subway: Union.
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This Toronto institution has been in business for more
Kids DELI
than three-quarters of a century. Its large patio, festooned with giant yellow
umbrellas, draws crowds for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and in between. This
is where you go for heaping corned beef or smoked-meat sandwiches served on
fresh rye. There’s also a slew of comfort foods, like macaroni and cheese and
chicken potpie. Shopsy’s also boasts one of the largest walk-in humidors in the
city (which is not subject to the new smoking crackdown).
Shopsy’s
33 Yonge St. & 416/365-3333. Reservations accepted only for groups of 6 or more. Main courses C$7–$14
(US$4.90–$9.80). AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 6:30am–11pm; Thurs–Fri 6:30am–midnight; Sat 8am–midnight; Sun
8am–10pm. Subway: Union or King.
Young Thailand
THAI Wandee Young was one of the first chefs to
awake Toronto’s taste buds to the joys of Thai cuisine. That was more than
2 decades ago, and Young Thailand is still going strong, with several locations
around the city. The large dining room contains a few Southeast Asian decorative elements, but it’s the low-priced, high-quality cuisine that attracts the
hip-but-broke and boomers alike. The bargain buffet at lunch is always a mob
scene. The dinner menu is a la carte, with popular picks like spiced chicken and
bamboo shoots in coconut milk, satays with fiery peanut sauce, and the everpresent pad Thai. Soups tend to be sinus-clearing, and mango salads offer a
sweet antidote.
81 Church St. (south of Lombard St.). & 416/368-1368. Reservations recommended. Lunch buffet C$9.95
(US$7); main courses C$8–$16 (US$5.60–$11). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm; daily 4:30–11pm.
Subway: Queen or King.
4 Midtown West
VERY EXPENSIVE
FRENCH Because Hollywood types frequent Toronto, it’s
no surprise to see the stars out for a night on the town. Bistro 990 is just across
the street from the tony Sutton Place Hotel, so it drags in more than its fair share
of big names. (One friend has had a couple of Whoopi Goldberg sightings here.
Why do these things never happen when I’m around?) In any case, the Gallic
dining room is charming, and the service is all-around attentive. The menu
offers updated hors d’oeuvres, such as octopus and veggies in citrus marinade.
Main dishes stick to grand-mère’s recipes, like the satisfying roasted half chicken
with garlicky mashed potatoes, and calf ’s liver in white-wine sauce. Sweets, such
as the pineapple tarte tatin with kiwi coulis and blueberry ice cream, are made
daily. The three-course prix fixe menus are an excellent value, at C$20 (US$14)
for lunch and C$25 (US$17) for dinner.
Bistro 990
990 Bay St. (at St. Joseph). & 416/921-9990. Reservations required. Main courses C$19–$40 (US$13–$28).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm; Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Wellesley.
Opus CONTINENTAL
Popular with the price-is-no-object set, Opus is
nonetheless low-key. Smooth, personable servers make you feel at home in the
elegant renovated town house, which contains several small dining areas. The
look is casually chic, and there’s no shortage of suits. The menu changes every
other month, and always features classic French as well as lightened-up dishes.
Tuna tartare meets its match with black sesame seeds and lotus chips, and beef
tenderloin with dauphinoise potatoes and rosemary-shallot jus is memorable.
Desserts are easy on the eye and the palate. The wine list runs to volumes, with
highlights of New and Old worlds; the knowledgeable staff can set you straight.
M I D TOW N W E S T
101
37 Prince Arthur Ave. & 416/921-3105. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$25–$39 (US$18–$27).
AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–11:30pm; bar until 2am. Subway: St. George.
CONTINENTAL On the second floor of the Four Seasons
Hotel, this formal dining room is a study in elegance. Every last detail has been
attended to, from the exotic sculptures to the stunning marquetry floor. The
clientele is a mix of hotel guests and local businesspeople—it’s a bit of an older
crowd. Appetizers boast exquisite ingredients, with results such as pan-seared
foie gras atop pineapple and mango chutney. Main courses, such as baconwrapped veal tenderloin served side-by-side with morel mushroom ravioli, are
more down-to-earth. Desserts like peach Napoleon and lemon soufflé are uniformly delightful. The mile-long wine list frequently veers into the stratosphere.
Truffles
In the Four Seasons Hotel, 21 Avenue Rd. & 416/928-7331. Reservations required. Main courses C$34–$46
(US$24–$32). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6–11pm; Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: Bay.
EXPENSIVE
INTERNATIONAL Why are so many of the city’s fascinating
restaurants in hotels? Annona, at the Park Hyatt, is the latest case in point. This
street-level dining room is an exercise in elegance, with dusky blue draperies and
banquettes, gold accents, and floor-to-ceiling windows (all the better to peoplewatch, my dears). It draws a business crowd, Yorkville shoppers, and hotel
guests, serving scrambled eggs with smoked salmon and capers for breakfast,
seafood risotto with morel mushrooms and asparagus at lunch, and pan-seared
Black Angus medallions in red wine sauce for dinner. The desserts are to die for,
especially the caramelized pineapple tart with rum ice cream.
Annona
Park Hyatt Toronto, 4 Avenue Rd. & 416/924-5471. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses
C$16–$30 (US$11–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 6:30am–11pm; Sat–Sun 7am–11pm. Subway: Museum
or Bay.
FUSION There is no shortage of stunning turn-of-the-20th-century
houses in this part of town, and Boba happens to be in one of the most charming. Set back from the street, it has a front patio for summer dining. Inside, the
pastel-hued walls and tasseled lampshades exude warmth, Provençal style. Boba
is a scene every night, with a mix of dressed-up and dressed-down professionals
table-hopping with abandon. What draws them is the inventive cuisine, which
has turned co-chefs Barbara Gordon and Bob Bermann into local celebrities.
One highlight is Gordon’s wonderful Muscovy duck two ways, with the breast
cooked rare and the leg braised. Grilled salmon is also just so, nicely mated with
curried vegetable risotto. Desserts are overwhelming, particularly the Valrhona
chocolate triangle with crème fraîche ice cream, raspberries, and berry coulis.
Boba
90 Avenue Rd. & 416/961-2622. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–$34 (US$14–$24).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:45–10pm. Subway: Bay.
Il Posto Nuovo ITALIAN All of those ladies who lunch can’t be wrong. Now
celebrating its 20th year, Il Posto Nuovo (formerly known simply as Il Posto) has
new management and a new direction—and business is booming. Still, some
things don’t change: White-linened tables sit cheek-by-jowl, making this an
eavesdropper’s Eden. The service is among the best in the city, considerate, efficient, and well versed in the intricacies of the menu. And what a menu it is, rich
with classic dishes like bresaola salad (thinly sliced air-cured beef and Asiago
cheese atop a bed of arugula), and ravioli stuffed with veal and spinach. The
wine cellar favors Italy, France, and California; it’s constantly updated, so do ask
for recommendations.
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148 Yorkville Ave. (at Avenue Rd.). & 416/968-0469. Reservations required. Main courses C$14–$25
(US$9.80–$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–2:30pm and 6–11pm. Subway: Bay or Museum.
ITALIAN While the curvy bar up front is a favorite place to
meet, the modern Italian menu is the real draw for the well-dressed 20- and
30-somethings who dine at Mistura. The food is satisfying without being overly
heavy—think spinach and ricotta gnocchi with light but creamy Gorgonzola
sauce and toasted walnuts. The meaty entrees might include a tender veal chop
with rosemary roasted potatoes and portobello mushrooms, or sweetbreads with
chickpea polenta and caramelized root veggies. The well-organized wine list is
heavy with Italian and California vintages.
Mistura
265 Davenport Rd. & 416/515-0009. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–$28 (US$14–$20).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Bay.
FUSION I used to think this location was cursed. For years,
I watched restaurants open with a bang and fold with a whimper. Well, Pangaea
seems to have broken that losing streak—and deservedly so. The massive dining
room is as dramatic as ever, complete with an undulating aluminum ceiling and
coral walls. Perhaps to compete with the surroundings, the chic crowd likes to
dress up. The menu changes every month. Appetizers such as white asparagus
soup with roasted shallots and morel mushrooms are classically French. Main
dishes strike boldly in different directions: glazed salmon with bok choy, water
chestnuts, and ginger, for example, or rack of lamb roasted in sunflower seeds
and honey and served with whiskey sauce. The professional staff knows its way
around the wide-ranging wine list, which favors the Western Hemisphere.
Pangaea
1221 Bay St. & 416/920-2323. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$22–$28 (US$15–$20). AE, DC,
MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–11:30pm. Subway: Bay.
Patriot
CANADIAN Canadians are often accused of lacking patriotism;
perhaps this elegant eatery was designed to arouse some national pride? Most of
the menu staples, from veal to lobster to cheeses to mushrooms, are proudly
sourced in Canada. But what really counts is what the kitchen makes of its
bounty. The results are compelling, like the pairing of artichoke and oka cheese
atop rich carrot soup, or slightly seared lamb carpaccio served with beet juice,
basil oil, and balsamic vinegar. Because Canadians hail from all parts of
the globe, it’s only fair to throw in a few foreign elements, as the excellent
pineapple tarte Tatin demonstrates. Canadian vintages dominate the wine list.
131 Bloor St. W. & 416/922-0025. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$17–$27 (US$12–$19).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11am–11pm. Subway: Museum or Bay.
Splendido Bar and Grill CANADIAN This longstanding favorite is under
new ownership, and the resulting renovation has made it look even more like a
private club than before: The dining room pairs brown with beige (much more
attractive than it sounds), dark wood and leather chairs. The menu has also
taken a new direction; with the Northern Italian standards taking a backseat to
modern innovations that highlight Canadian produce. Mains run the gamut
from a seared B.C. halibut filet in leek-and-champagne vinaigrette to Ontario
butternut squash ravioli. For dessert, the lemon pudding cake with caramelized
mango is hard to beat. The international wine list is pricey, but some nice
vintages are available by the glass.
88 Harbord St. & 416/929-7788. Reservations required. Main courses C$20–$30 (US$14–$21). AE, DC,
MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Harbord St.
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MODERATE
Café Nervosa ITALIAN There are reed-thin models playing with their food
at the next table, leopard skin decking the room, and limos parked out front.
Where are you? One possible answer is Café Nervosa, a casually hip Yorkville
hangout. The name is borrowed from the coffee shop on TV’s Frasier, with a
wacky ambience all its own. The menu boasts nicely constructed panini, pizzas,
and salads, and the portions tend to be generous (curious, given the you-cannever-be-too-rich-or-too-thin crowd).
75 Yorkville Ave. & 416/961-4642. www.cafenervosa.ca. Reservations only for groups of 6 or more. Main
courses C$10–$25 (US$7–$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Wed 11am–11pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–midnight; Sun
10:30am–3pm. Subway: Bay.
Please promise not to laugh when I tell
Finds FUSION
you that one of Toronto’s hottest new restaurants is located in the basement of
Club Monaco. I can’t explain it, but it’s true. The flagship store at the corner of
Bloor Street West and Avenue Road—just across the street from the ROM and
a hop and a skip from Yorkville—now houses the Colony Kitchen. Not that
Club Monaco staff is running the show here; this new restaurant is the work of
Leslie Ng, the man who created the excellent Kubo (which, sadly, folded in late
2002 because of ongoing construction on its street). The new menu is hard to
resist: Panko fish ’n’ chips with a wasabi-ginger dipping sauce is excellent, but so
is the five-spice lamb stew or the roast tenderloin of pork in a cumin-tamarind
sauce. The desserts are fine but not divine, though in this neighborhood, sweettooths won’t have a problem finding other sources. By the way, the patio seating
area is one of my favorites.
Colony Kitchen
157 Bloor St. W. & 416/591-9997. www.thecolony.ca. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$12–$25
(US$8.05–$17). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6–11pm. Subway: Museum or Bay.
Goldfish
Behind the floor-to-ceiling front window,
Value ECLECTIC
dining at this new hot spot is rather like being in a fishbowl. The cool, crisp lines
of Scandinavian design mix with miniature Japanese plants for an upscale Zen
ambience. While the look may be trendier-than-thou, the staff ’s attitude is
consistently considerate. The menu is far less austere than the surroundings.
Main dishes run the gamut from ostrich tenderloin with lobster orzo and cranberry coulis to orange-poppy-seed-crusted salmon in an apple cider reduction.
Even the simplest green salad benefits from dollops of pumpkin seeds and a light
dressing that contains a hint of lavender emulsion. The short dessert list includes
some inventive pairings, such as delicious apple tart with rosemary ice cream.
The wine list is short but contains 10 selections by the glass.
372 Bloor St. W. & 416/513-0077. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses C$13–$27
(US$9.10–$19). AE, DISC, MC, V. Wed–Fri 11:30am–3:30pm; Sat–Sun 10am–3pm; daily 5:30–10:30pm.
Subway: Spadina.
Gus
GREEK This restaurant is out of its element so far as locale is
concerned—Toronto’s Greek restaurants tend to congregate along the Danforth
(see “The East End” on p. 108). But this midtown newcomer is a welcome addition to the neighborhood. Gus injects some creative cookery—and a pleasantly
relaxed vibe—into an area that could benefit from cutting loose a little. Main
courses run the gamut from rack of lamb in a sour-cherry reduction to seared
tuna steak with a classic avgolemono sauce. Side plates, including the delicious
feta-scalloped potatoes, are ordered separately. Portions are on the generous side,
but do try to save space for the light but luscious Pavlova. The wine list has some
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well-chosen bottles, but the cocktail list is more of a draw: The lychee martini is
a house specialty.
1033 Bay St. & 416/923-8159. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$16–$25 (US$11–$18).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 5pm–midnight; Sat 6pm–2am. Subway: Wellesley.
Jacques Bistro du Parc FRENCH There are about three ladies who lunch
for every lad who happens by Jacques Bistro du Parc around noontime. In the
evening, the ratio evens out. The menu is that of a genuine French brasserie,
with omelets, quiches, and niçoise salads galore. There are meatier main courses,
too, like green peppercorn steak and Dijon-coated rack of lamb. Many wines are
available by the glass, and bottles tend to be reasonably priced. Service can be
considered relaxed or slow, depending on your mood.
126A Cumberland St. & 416/961-1893. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses C$12–$30
(US$8.40–$21). AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm and 5–10:30pm. Subway: Bay.
Joso’s SEAFOOD This Annex mainstay keeps packing ’em in, drawing a
crowd of regulars and a sprinkling of celebrities. The Spralja family has a showbiz history (chef Joso was half of the folk-singing duo of Malka and Joso, who
appeared on The Tonight Show), which may explain the theatricality of the surroundings. The two-story house is crammed with art depicting the female form
in all its naked glory. Tables are inches apart, foiling intimate conversation but
letting you get to know your neighbors. Fresh seafood is carted to your table for
inspection, then returned to the kitchen for cooking. There is also a selection of
pastas, such as delightful spaghettini al Leonardo, which combines shrimp, octopus, and capers. Desserts range from jam-filled crepes to sorbets.
202 Davenport Rd. (just east of Avenue Rd.). & 416/925-1903. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$14–$44 (US$9.80–$31); pasta dishes C$10–$16 (US$7–$11). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm;
Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: Bay.
A bit off the beaten track, this small restaurant
Finds FRENCH
offers the thrill of discovery. Spread over two floors, the intimate rooms are festooned with all things French. The crowd includes many regulars, and the ambience is that of a low-key bistro. The short menu is filled with classics from the
old country, including Angus steak rolled in crushed pepper and flambéed with
cognac, and rack of lamb with mustard and herbs of Provence. Desserts, like
vanilla ice cream under hot chocolate sauce, stay on the same track.
Matignon
51 St. Nicholas St. & 416/921-9226. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–$18 (US$9.80–$13).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10pm, Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Wellesley.
Messis Value ECLECTIC This is one of Toronto’s prime training grounds for
up-and-coming young chefs. The food is for gourmets, though the prices are comparatively low. That explains the presence of earnest artsy types and casual boomers
in the small, saffron-walled dining room. The menu changes frequently, keeping
as its mainstays Italian pastas and Mediterranean meat dishes, and ranging into
Asia, too. For a starter, the herbed goat cheese and cumin phyllo pastry is a delicious choice. Main courses include oven-roasted Atlantic salmon with jasmine rice
and sun-dried fruit. Service is well intentioned though occasionally clunky. The
California-dominated wine list is as reasonably priced as the food.
97 Harbord St. & 416/920-2186. Main courses C$11–$21 (US$7.70–$15). AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–
10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Harbord St.
Rouge
ECLECTIC Oh, make me blush—not another minimalist, modernist eatery along Bloor Street West. All right, that’s exactly what it is—but it
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has nothing to be ashamed of. This skinny little room with its crimson walls and
Japanese-inspired flower boxes is serving up some stellar fare. Appetizers go from
sweet—tomato salad with roasted baby onions in balsamic vinaigrette—to
sophisticated, like the seared foie gras with brioche and roasted pears. There are
several impressive pastas, such as the gnocchi with double-smoked bacon and
savory, as well as strong mains (the duo of Quebec leg of lamb and Australian
lamb rack with gratin dauphinois offers a fascinating taste test for gourmets).
467 Bloor St. W. & 416/413-0713. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$12–$24 (US$8.40–$17).
AE, MC, V. Daily 6–11pm. Subway: Spadina.
ITALIAN Imagine the Bat Cave decorated by a Florentine,
with aged frescoes, wall-mounted stonework, and wax-dripping candelabra. A
few steps down from street level, this restaurant transports diners a world away.
Tables are cheek-by-jowl, but the jovial suits and couples don’t seem to mind.
Efficient service lacks warmth, though the kitchen makes up for it. The menu
leans to the lightweight, with a few irresistible creamy-sauced pastas. Main
courses of meat or fish, like Cornish hen and swordfish, are nicely grilled. The
risotto is fine—though, annoyingly, at least two people at the table must order
it. There’s a nice wine list, with many selections available by the glass.
Sotto Sotto
116A Avenue Rd. (north of Bloor St.). & 416/962-0011. Reservations required. Main courses C$14–$24
(US$9.80–$17). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5:30–midnight. Subway: Bay or Museum.
Southern Accent CAJUN
Cajun food isn’t Toronto’s claim to fame, so this
down-home Annex eatery is a find. Background blues and zydeco set the tone,
and the menu attracts casual neighborhood boomers. Anyone who has admired
the work of New Orleans celebrity chef Paul Prudhomme will cotton to the
blackened entrees—chicken, steak, lamb, and fish all get the treatment. Gumbo
and crawfish make occasional appearances, too. Warning: The corn bread is a
mite addictive.
595 Markham St. & 416/536-3211. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses C$13–$26
(US$9.10–$18). AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 5:30pm–1am. Subway: Bathurst.
INEXPENSIVE
Bloor Street Diner LIGHT FARE
If you’ve shopped until you’ve dropped
along Bloor Street West, this is just the place to grab a bite to eat and let your
feet and your credit card recover. It’s two restaurants in one: Le Café/Terrasse is
an informal bistro that serves decent soups, salads, and sandwiches all day; La
Rotisserie is a slightly more upscale dining room with heartier Provençal-style
fare. The basics are what they do best. Try to snag a seat on the umbrellacovered patio overlooking Bay Street (all the better for people-watching).
In the Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/928-3105. Main courses C$10–$18 (US$7–$13). AE, DC, MC,
V. Daily 7am–1am. Subway: Bay or Yonge/Bloor.
Indian Rice Factory INDIAN A Toronto institution since it opened in
the late 1970s, the Indian Rice Factory is in a league of its own. The corduroy
banquettes and macramé wall hangings still draw boomers who started coming
here 20 years ago. The Punjabi-influenced menu features heaping helpings of
beef dhansak (braised with lentil-eggplant-tomato curry) and chicken
khashabad, stuffed with almonds, cashews, and raisins in coconut-milk cream.
There are many beers from local microbreweries, and a small but well-chosen
wine list.
414 Dupont St. & 416/961-3472. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$8–$16 (US$5.60–$11).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Subway: Dupont.
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Japan Deli JAPANESE/SUSHI Tucked into a cubbyhole on a side street just
off Bloor Street West, Japan Deli succeeds at bringing tempura and teriyaki to
the masses. Fine Japanese cuisine takes hours to prepare, but this is more like
what time-pressed Tokyo residents are used to—a friend who used to live in
Japan swears that this is as close as you can get to the experience without boarding a plane. Complete dinners include miso soup, salad, a meat dish, side vegetables, and fresh fruit for dessert—all nicely prepared, and all for under C$10
(US$7).
11 Balmuto St. & 416/920-2051. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$7–$9 (US$4.90–$6.30).
MC, V. Mon–Sat noon–9pm. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
Kensington Kitchen
Drawing a crowd of
Kids MEDITERRANEAN
regulars—students and profs—from the nearby University of Toronto, Kensington Kitchen is a perennial gem. The decor hasn’t changed in years, with
Oriental carpets covering the walls, a painted wood floor, and decorative objects
scattered about. The tradition of big portions at small cost stays constant, too.
The menu ventures between the ports of the Mediterranean. There’s angel-hair
pasta with heaps of shrimp, scallops, and mussels in tomato-coriander sauce; saffron paella with chicken and sausage; and Turkish-style braised lamb stuffed
with raisins, eggplant, apricots, and figs. In clement weather, head to the rooftop
patio, in the shade of a mighty Manitoba maple.
124 Harbord St. & 416/961-3404. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$14 (US$7–$9.80).
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–10pm. Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Harbord St.
Lalibela ETHIOPIAN
Perhaps it’s the fact that you don’t need cutlery to
dine in Ethiopian style that makes it so much fun. A flatbread called injera takes
the place of flatware as you scoop up spicy hot meats and thick lentil stews.
Lalibela has numerous choices for vegetarians and meat-lovers, and the helpful
staff will arrange mixed plates with three different dishes for tasting.
869 Bloor St. W. & 416/535-6615. Main courses C$5–$9 (US$3.50–$6.30). MC, V. Mon–Thurs 6–10pm;
Fri–Sat 6–11pm. Subway: Christie.
Lox, Stock & Bagel DELI If you’re tuckered out while shopping in
Yorkville—and not feeling up to facing the chic scene at the neighborhood’s
many bistros—head to the sanctuary of Lox, Stock & Bagel. Located in a courtyard of the Hazelton Lanes shopping complex, this deli serves snacks, salads, and
sandwiches. The menu isn’t sophisticated, but it’s hard to resist comfort foods
like cheese blintzes, matzo ball soup, and a classic Reuben sandwich. There are
a few hot dishes too, such as vegetarian lasagna. Of course, you could always just
grab a bagel, too.
Hazelton Lanes, 55 Avenue Rd. & 416/968-8850. Reservations only for groups. Main courses C$8–$12
(US$5.60–$8.40). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–9pm. Subway: Bay or Museum.
Nataraj INDIAN There’s usually a bit of a wait for a table—Nataraj’s
upscale cuisine is popular with Annex residents, and its downscale prices are
affordable to U of T students. But the service is swift, so tables do open up
rather quickly. The cooking is from the northern part of the subcontinent, so
there are lots of fish and seafood dishes. A number of plates will appeal to vegetarians. The tandoor-baked breads are simply sublime.
394 Bloor St. W. & 416/928-2925. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$7–$12 (US$4.90–$8.40).
MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: Spadina.
Pho Hung VIETNAMESE
Pho usually translates as “soup,” but that’s a bit of
a misnomer—it’s more like a meal in a bowl. There are 15 good choices here,
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and the lemongrass- or coriander-scented broths are chock-full of meat, noodles,
and vegetables. There’s also a range of chicken, pork, and seafood dishes, and a
tangy beef fondue. The clientele includes both suits and students, and the wine
list is longer and better than you might expect.
200 Bloor St. W. & 416/963-5080. Reservations recommended for groups of 4 or more. Main courses
C$7–$15 (US$4.90–$11). V. Mon–Sat 11am–10pm. Subway: St. George or Museum.
Serra
ITALIAN This diminutive eatery would fit in nicely in Little Italy.
The diners are casually chic, and the look is sleek, with a wood-paneled bar in
one corner and mahogany tables for two. The trattoria-worthy fare includes
thin-crust pizza topped with olives, prosciutto, and goat cheese; light-sauced
pasta dishes teeming with shrimp; and grilled focaccia sandwiches.
378 Bloor St. W. & 416/922-6999. www.serrarestaurant.com. Main courses C$10–$18 (US$7–$13). AE, DC,
MC, V. Daily noon–10:30pm. Subway: Spadina.
SpringRolls ASIAN What to have for dinner tonight: Chinese, Vietnamese,
Thai, Singaporean? If you can’t decide, your best bet is SpringRolls. The name
may make you think its offerings are meager, but the multi-page menu will set
you straight. Tenderly executed barbecued pork and fried shrimp dishes abound.
Vegetarians don’t have as many choices as you might expect, though there are a
few top-notch vermicelli-and-veggie plates.
693 Yonge St. & 416/972-7655. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$6–$15 (US$4.20–$11).
MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11am–midnight. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
Great Greasy Spoons
While I’m enchanted by Toronto’s top-notch dining spots, I just can’t
resist the lure of the greasy spoon. You know the kind of place I mean:
fluorescent lighting, a bottle of ketchup on every Formica tabletop,
vinyl-upholstered booths, and aromas of strong coffee and frying
bacon. Some suggestions:
Perhaps Toronto’s best-known greasy spoon, Mars, 432 College St.
at Bathurst St. (& 416/921-6332), sports a neon sign that claims the
diner is “Just out of this world.” In addition to the all-day breakfast
menu, it boasts cheese blintzes, grilled burgers, and a great turkey
club. There’s another location at 2363 Yonge St., just north of Eglinton
Ave. (& 416/322-7111), but its kitschy mock-diner decor doesn’t hold a
candle to the real McCoy.
Avenue Coffee Shop, 222 Davenport Rd. at Avenue Rd. (& 416/9245191), is just up the street from the Park Hyatt and the Four Seasons
hotels, which explains the frequent celebrity sightings (signed and
framed photos stand as a permanent record of stars’ visits). In business
since 1946, the Avenue serves a steady supply of omelets, French toast,
and hamburgers.
The Goof, 2379 Queen St. E. (& 416/694-3605), is officially named
the Garden Gate Restaurant. But certain letters burned out of the
neon “Good Food” sign, giving this Beaches neighborhood mainstay
its name. In addition to the usual diner grub, this spot has star power,
as evidenced by recent Jennifer Lopez sightings.
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5 The East End
Just about everything will be Greek to you in the East End along Danforth
Avenue. Known appropriately enough as Greektown, this is where to come for
low-cost, delicious dining, or for a midnight meal—the tavernas generally stay
open until the wee hours, even on weeknights.
EXPENSIVE
Café Brussel BELGIAN Perhaps this was to be a challenge to the supremacy
of Greek food in this neighborhood. The Café Brussel is defiantly . . . Belgian?
The only such eatery in the city, it draws a neighborhood crowd. The menu
could pass for French in most regards, with staples like onion soup and duck
confit. This is food you could get drunk on—try carbonnades flamandes (beef
simmered in dark ale), or moules au bourbon (seafood with shots of hard stuff ).
There’s also a great selection of European lagers and wines.
124 Danforth Ave. & 416/465-7363. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$15–$28 (US$11–$20).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 11:30am–11pm. Subway: Broadview.
MODERATE
Christina’s GREEK
This restaurant takes itself a little more seriously than its
nearby cousins. The walls are plastered with photographs of celebrities caught in
the act of dining here. (There’s one infamous old snapshot of Friends star
Matt LeBlanc dining with Alanis Morissette.) The menu offers reliable souvlakia
and eggplant pies, but it veers into pasta and burger territory, too. The hearty
all-day breakfast of feta-spiked omelets and herbed taters is a popular choice.
492 Danforth Ave. & 416/463-4418. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$24 (US$7–$17).
AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11am–4am. Subway: Chester.
GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN Part trendy bar, part restaurant,
this generous space is large enough to encompass both. The ambience is classical Greece meets MTV. Ornate oversized shields share space with a series of
TVs running an endless loop of mythic movies. Who can pay attention to what’s
on the plate with so much going on? Fortunately, the food calls attention to
itself. Starters, ranging from traditional spanakopita to tuna tartar with beet and
taro-root chips, are impossible to ignore. Main courses, such as rabbit braised in
port and cinnamon, or pizza topped with spiced lamb, zucchini and onion
purée, are just as demanding. As the night goes on, the crowd gathers at the bar,
where a DJ starts spinning music at 11pm.
Myth
417 Danforth Ave. (between Logan and Chester). & 416/461-8383. Reservations recommended. Main
courses C$14–$26 (US$9.80–$18). AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed 5pm–11pm, Thurs–Sun noon–11pm; bar open till
2am nightly. Subway: Chester.
Octavia ECLECTIC/GREEK/MEDITERRANEAN Who brought Thai satays
onto the Danforth? The name of this swanky new addition to the Greektown strip
fits right in, but its sensibility is decidedly different. The look is polished, with velvety banquettes against one wall and French doors that open to the sidewalk. Most
of the main courses, such as grilled seafood and squid- ink pastas, come from the
Mediterranean, but there’s room on the menu for California salads and satays.
414 Danforth Ave. & 416/461-3562. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$14–$22 (US$9.80–$15).
AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 5pm–2am. Subway: Chester.
Pan on the Danforth GREEK To the best of my knowledge, Pan was a
god of music, not of food. I must have mixed it up, because if he is the inspiration
THE EAST END
109
Sleepless in Toronto: What to Do
When the Midnight Munchies Attack
There are cities that never sleep. Well, Toronto isn’t one of them. The
city starts to doze off around 11:30pm, even on weekends. Sure, there
are 24-hour doughnut shops, but if you’re looking for something more
substantial, try one of the following late-night options:
• Caribbean Roti Corner, 607 Queen St. W. (& 416/504-9558), provides
takeout dishes of jerk chicken, rice and peas, and meaty stews until
4am on weekends. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Spadina Ave.
• Happy Seven (p. 95) serves reliable Chinese food in a kitschy setting
until 5am.
• 7 West Café, 7 Charles St. W. (& 416/928-9041), is open 24 hours a
day. Delish sandwiches and pasta platters hit the spot. Those with
severe sugar cravings can indulge in cakes and pies from several of
the city’s best bakers. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
• If you’re on the Danforth, you’re in luck: Many of the terrific Greek
tavernas and restaurants there, like Myth (p. 108), Octavia (p. 108),
and Christina’s (p. 108), stay open until the wee hours even on weeknights.
for this restaurant, he certainly knows his way around a kitchen. This longestablished eatery updates classic Greek dishes with panache. Salmon is stuffed
with mushrooms and spinach and wrapped in phyllo pastry, and a smoked
baked pork chop comes with feta scalloped potatoes and zucchini relish. The
well-chosen wine list favors the New World. The crowd is fairly sophisticated,
which may explain the cryptic message over the bar: YOU’VE DONE IT ALREADY.
516 Danforth Ave. & 416/466-8158. Reservations accepted only for parties of 3 or more. Main courses
C$13–$19 (US$9.10–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5–11pm; Fri–Sat 5pm–midnight. Subway: Chester or Pape.
INEXPENSIVE
Astoria GREEK
The restaurant subtitles itself a shish-kebab house, but its
offerings are much broader. And it’s more upscale than the name would suggest,
with a patio fountain and colorful decor. Whatever the protein, it seems to
respond well to broiling—beef, lamb, chicken, and seafood all get similar treatment. There are several choices for vegetarians, including souvlakia and moussaka. Expect a wait if you arrive after 8:30 or so on weekends.
390 Danforth Ave. & 416/463-2838. Reservations recommended; accepted on weekdays only. Main
courses C$9–$15 (US$6.30–$11). AE, MC, V. Mon–Wed and Fri–Sat 11am–1am; Thurs and Sun 11am–
midnight. Subway: Chester.
GREEK A white stucco archway contributes to the cave-like feel of the
narrow street-level room, though the recent expansion to the second floor has
created an airier place to dine. Always noisy, occasionally raucous, this taverna
serves up some of the best food on the Danforth—non-greasy, thoughtfully prepared, and carefully seasoned. Meze starters are standard: kopanisti (spicy feta
with peppers) and hummus for those who want cold food, grilled octopus and
Avli
110
steamed mussels for those who like it hot. Main courses are standouts. The half
chicken stuffed with cashews, dates, apples, and rice is exquisite, and the meat
moussaka is the best around.
401 Danforth Ave. & 416/461-9577. www.avlirestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$9–$19 (US$6.30–$13). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily noon–midnight. Subway: Chester.
Mezes GREEK
This sophisticated space doles out exactly what it promises.
Mezes are the Greek equivalent of tapas—light snacks meant to keep you going
until you have a real dinner in front of you. Still, it’s worth spoiling your appetite
to indulge in these appetizers. Choices range from grilled calamari and octopus
to spicy eggplant dip and leek pie. Do try to save room for the honey-sweet
baklava.
456 Danforth Ave. & 416/778-5150. Reservations not accepted. Appetizers C$4–$10 (US$2.80–$7).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11am–1am; Sun noon–midnight. Subway: Chester.
Ouzeri GREEK
One of the longtime stars of the neighborhood, Ouzeri has
been packing in the crowds for years and shows no sign of slowing down. Just
inside the foyer, TV sets make it look like a sports bar. Farther inside, colorful
ceramic tiles and wrought iron surround terrazzo tables and wicker chairs.
Charming as the interior is, if you’re lucky you’ll be outside on the small patio.
Portions of main dishes, such as lamb pies and pork kebabs, tend to be quite
generous. As the evening goes on, the convivial atmosphere evolves into festivallike celebration; on Tuesday nights, there’s live Greek music.
500A Danforth Ave. & 416/778-0500. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$8–$18 (US$5.60–$13).
AE, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Mon and Wed–Thurs 11am–midnight; Tues and Fri–Sat 11am–2am. Subway: Chester.
6 Uptown
This area is too large to be considered a neighborhood, stretching as it does from
north of Davenport Road to Steeles Avenue. While it doesn’t have the concentration of restaurants that the downtown area enjoys, a number of stellar options
make the trip north worthwhile.
VERY EXPENSIVE
Auberge du Pommier
FRENCH Don’t have time to drop by your
French country house this weekend? To the rescue comes Auberge du Pommier,
a cozy chateau that exudes Provençal-style charm. Diners outfitted in business
casual relax in the care of expert servers. The menu doesn’t offer many surprises,
but, what it does, it does well. Appetizers set a high standard, with dishes like
creamy lobster and white-bean soup, and baked artichokes stuffed with French
goat cheese. Entrees, like pan-seared scallops with braised oxtail in a Cabernet
jus, keep up the pace.
4150 Yonge St. & 416/222-2220. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$33–$38 (US$23–$27).
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5–10pm. Subway: York Mills.
Centro
CONTINENTAL The palace-grand main room, with its
oxblood walls, is always bustling. The dressed-up all-ages crowd often starts out
schmoozing at the wine bar downstairs, moves up to the main floor for dinner,
then migrates back downstairs for R&B music and a nightcap (the wine bar
stays open until 2am). The seasonal menu pays tribute to the restaurant’s Northern Italian origins, with pasta dishes like homemade egg tagliolini with smoked
chicken in a truffle emulsion. Many choices lean to contemporary Canadiana,
like the grain-fed Québec capon paired with a foie gras mousse and sun-dried
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cherries, or French modern, like the rack of lamb in a Provençal honey mustard
crust. Delicious desserts run the gamut from traditional tiramisu to warm
banana bread pudding. The stellar wine list is sure to thrill oenophiles.
2472 Yonge St. & 416/483-2211. www.centro.ca. Reservations required. Main courses C$28–$42 (US$20–
$29). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11:30pm. Subway: Eglinton.
North 44
INTERNATIONAL This is the one restaurant that even
people who’ve never set foot in Toronto have heard about. It’s profiled extensively in food and travel magazines, but can it possibly live up to its reputation?
In a word, yes. The spare Art Deco decor recently got a face-lift, and the results
are stunning. The soft lighting and strategically situated mirrors wrap the dining room—and its occupants—in a gorgeous glow. The menu, which changes
with the seasons, borrows from Mediterranean, American, and Asian sources.
The results are inspiring to the palate and the eye. On the list of main courses
you might find grilled veal tenderloin with orange peppercorns, toasted barley,
and root veggies, or roasted Muscovy duck breast with orange-soy marinade and
foie gras. There are always a few pasta and pizza choices, such as caramelized
squash ravioli with black truffle essence. It’s impossible to come here without
being seduced into a three-course meal. The desserts, like lemon meringue millefeuille, are among the best in the city, and there’s a wide selection of accompanying ice wines. The wine list is comprehensive, though most of the prices veer
off into the stratosphere. What really sets North 44 apart is its seamless service.
Those who don’t like to be pampered should stay away.
2537 Yonge St. & 416/487-4897. Reservations required. Main courses C$27–$45 (US$19–$32). AE, DC,
MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Eglinton.
Scaramouche
INTERNATIONAL This is a contender for those who
don’t mind spending top dollar on splendid food. Tucked into an upscale apartment building, it isn’t easy to find. That enhances its snob appeal—and the
crowd here is more old money than the patrons at either of its uptown competitors, Centro and North 44. Scaramouche is blessed with one of the most
romantic settings in the city. Floor-to-ceiling windows afford a panoramic view
of the downtown skyline. (Securing a window seat is no mean feat, but fortunately most tables have decent sightlines.) The unobtrusive servers pay attention
to the details. The menu is laden with caviar, foie gras, truffles, and oysters; main
dishes include the likes of venison loin wrapped in smoke bacon in a red wine
glaze. The wine list has a broad reach, and there’s a nice selection of cognacs.
1 Benvenuto Place (off Avenue Rd.). & 416/961-8011. Reservations required. Main courses C$25–$40
(US$18–$28); pasta dishes C$16–$25 (US$11–$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Dining room Mon–Sat 5:30–10pm; pasta
bar Mon–Fri 5:30–10:30pm, Sat 5:30–11pm. Subway: St. Clair, then streetcar west to Avenue Rd., walk 4
blocks south to Edmund Ave.; Benvenuto is the first street on the left.
EXPENSIVE
ITALIAN Star sightings are common in Toronto, but at La
Bruschetta they’re almost an everyday event. The entryway is covered from floor
to ceiling with plates decorated by celebs such as Kelsey Grammer and Bette
Midler. It’s a surprise, then, to find the homey, kitchen-like dining room. Owner
Benito Piantoni, who charms patrons with tales of Italy and Hollywood gossip,
provides local color. The menu lists a dozen pastas, with cream sauces ranging
from brandy to Gorgonzola. Mouthwatering main courses include veal medallions simply presented in white-wine sauce with garlic and mushrooms. After a
rich meal, you’ll welcome the delicate lemon ice for dessert.
La Bruschetta
112
1317 St. Clair Ave. W. & 416/656-8622. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$14–$26 (US$9.80–
$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–11:30pm. Subway: St. Clair West, then any streetcar west to Dufferin St.
Lakes BISTRO Plush banquettes and close-set tables heighten the sense of
intimacy in the narrow dining room. A casually well-dressed crowd drops by
during the week; on Saturday, couples spend candlelit quality time. The menu
changes every few months, with jazzed-up bistro classics such as duck confit
with cranberry-shallot glaze and garlic mashed potatoes, grilled provimi veal
liver, and Gruyère-and-Emmenthal fondue for two making frequent appearances. The banana crème brûlée is a perennial favorite dessert.
1112 Yonge St. & 416/966-0185. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses C$14–$26
(US$9.80–$18). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri noon–3pm and 5:30–11pm; Sat 6–11pm. Subway: Rosedale.
Subtle as its signage is,
Kids MEDITERRANEAN
Millie’s is hard to miss. The sole gastronomic draw in this neighborhood, it lures
even jaded downtown dwellers. It attracts an unusual mix of young-to-middleage courting couples, families with tiny tykes, and groups gearing up for a night
on the town. The sprawling menu includes dishes from Spain, southern France,
Italy, Turkey, and Morocco. There is a kids’ menu, too. Start with tapas—
perhaps Catalan-style goat cheese with basil and olive oil; Turkish flatbread with
a topping of lamb, yogurt, and mint; or a b’stilla (aromatic chicken wrapped in
herbed semolina). Better still, sample them all—the cheery staff will arrange
them on ceramic platters for sharing. Main dishes include paella with saffron,
shrimp, clams, quail and chorizo sausage. Sweets are seductive, though generous
portions make saving room for dessert almost impossible. On the wide-ranging
wine list, Spanish selections are a particularly good value.
Millie’s Bistro
1980 Avenue Rd. (south of York Mills). & 416/481-1247. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$10–$27 (US$7–$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm. Subway: York Mills, then walk (10–15 min.) west
or take a taxi (about C$5/US$3.50).
Quartier FRENCH The old-world elegance is palpable as you step into
this refined bistro. Is it the languid sound of Edith Piaf ’s voice? Perhaps the
baroque mirrors and look-again prints on the walls? No matter. The Frenchborn proprietor, Marcel Rethore, has created a romance-tinged atmosphere for
a casually chic crowd. The menu boasts classic dishes such as duck confit with
sautéed potatoes and garlic-dressed endive, and Breton bouillabaisse. Desserts,
for those who have room, include a tender lemon-cream mille-feuille and a
delicate crème brûlée. The short wine list is particularly well chosen—it’s hard
to go wrong.
2112 Yonge St. & 416/545-0505. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$17–$27 (US$12–$19).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: Eglinton.
Thai Magic
THAI Arrangements of orchids, cascading vines, and Thai
statuary grace the enchanting entry. The serene staff handles frenetic crowds
with ease; this spot is filled with locals, especially on Thursday and Friday nights.
The meal is served Western-style, rather than in the Thai fashion of bringing all
courses to the table at once. Delicate appetizers like chicken-filled golden baskets vie for attention with not-too-spicy soups. Entrees range from chicken with
cashews and whole dried chiles to a coriander-infused lobster in the shell.
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5–11pm. Subway: Summerhill.
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MODERATE
ITALIAN This double-decker restaurant is a neighborhood favorite with groups and families alike. Pandemonium reigns on the
first floor; upstairs, the cognoscenti can gaze over a balcony at the tumult below.
The cheerful staff takes it all in stride. Reading the menu takes much too long:
With 22 pastas, 21 pizzas, 6 meat dishes, and daily specials, it can be an intimidating experience for the indecisive. Fortunately, the kitchen consistently produces top-notch dishes, from simple salads of mesclun and goat cheese to
spaghetti in brandy-tomato sauce with sweet Bermuda onion. Wine is served in
tumblers in classic rustic-Italian style.
Amore Trattoria
2425 Yonge St. & 416/322-6184. Reservations accepted only for groups of 6 or more. Main courses
C$10–$18 (US$7–$13). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–3pm and 5:30–10:30pm. Subway: Eglinton.
Grano
While Toronto has no shortage of Italian eateries,
Kids ITALIAN
few spots have as much ambience as Grano. The old-fashioned trattoria contains
several dining areas, with wooden furnishings, distressed stucco, and piles of
greenery. The small courtyard at the back is heaven on sunny days. This is a
high-energy spot that attracts celebratory groups (one clever friend of mine had
her wedding rehearsal dinner here); it’s also welcoming to families accompanied
by bambini. The cooking is hearty, from tender osso buco to ricotta gnocchi
paired with shrimp in white-wine sauce. The desserts are a serious draw—I insist
that everyone try the divine white chocolate and raspberry tart at least once.
AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 9:30am–11pm; Sat 9am–11pm. Subway: Davisville or Eglinton.
Tiny and intimate, Lolo is a perfect little bistro. Its
Finds BISTRO
romantic ambience is heightened by the fact that it has barely 40 seats neatly fitted between its deep-red walls. The mirrors and gold-painted crown molding
around the room add a special touch, as does the warm and unrushed service.
But for all of its charming airs, the menu—and the prices—are refreshingly
down-to-earth. The mains are bistro classics, from the roasted supreme of
chicken stuffed with spinach and mushrooms, to the grilled rib-eye steak with
green peppercorn sauce and crispy frites. In addition to the a la carte menu,
there’s a prix-fixe option that lets you have three courses for a mere C$23
(US$16). All of the desserts—including the divine lemon tart—are made on the
premises.
Lolo
619 Mount Pleasant Rd. & 416/483-8933. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$13–$21
(US$9.10–$15). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 5–11pm. Subway: Eglinton, then bus east to Mount Pleasant Rd.
Mezzetta MIDDLE EASTERN
Tapas bars are a dime a dozen in Madrid,
but in Toronto they’re few and far between. Mezzetta is one such gem. Everything on the menu is served in appetizer-sized portions, from cold salads of feta,
olives, and tomatoes to steamy kofta, an Egyptian dish of beef, lamb, and potato
in a spicy sauce. There are also pita sandwiches and barbecued items. Much of
the menu will appeal to vegetarians. The wine list is short but priced for value,
and there’s a lengthy list of brews, too.
681 St. Clair Ave. W. & 416/658-5687. Reservations recommended on weekends. Appetizers C$3 (US$2.10).
MC, V. Tues–Fri noon–2:30pm; Tues–Sun 5–10:30pm. Subway: St. Clair.
Stork on the Roof
BISTRO The stork in question is a Dutch sign of
good fortune. And luck it is to discover this charming bistro. The menu abounds
with pan-European classics warmed by exotic elements, such as grilled pork
114
Vegetarian Delights
It used to be that vegetarian dining in Toronto was often more of an
exercise in virtue than in good taste. Crunchy granola might be healthful for the body, but it’s hell on the palate. But now a new wave of vegetarian eateries are making meat-free meals a gourmet’s delight.
Several of the city’s finest restaurants are also offering special vegetarian tasting menus. Here are some of the best bets:
• Annapurna Vegetarian Restaurant, 1085 Bathurst St. (& 416/5378513; subway: Bathurst). Annapurna has been around for more than
20 years, and it’s still serving Indian vegetable dishes, hearty tofu
burgers, and a variety of fruit and vegetable juices to a crowd of students and boomers. In keeping with the aura of health, Annapurna
hosts free meditation classes every week. Main courses C$8–$12
(US$5.60–$8.40); MC, V; Mon–Tues and Thurs–Sat 11:30am–9pm, Wed
11:30am–6:30pm.
• Fressen, 478 Queen St. W. (& 416/504-5127; subway: Osgoode). This
is a vegetarian oasis for sophisticates. From the freshly baked beetinfused buns to tender tofu with both hot tomato and sweet teriyaki
sauces, this new hot spot makes every mouthful a gourmet delight.
It’s a hit with vegetarians and their carnivorous friends. Main courses
C$12–$14 (US$8.40–$9.80); MC, V; Mon–Thurs 5:30– 10pm, Fri 5:30–
11pm, Sat 10:30am–3:30pm and 5:30–11pm, Sun 10:30am–3:30pm and
5:30–10pm.
• Juice for Life, 336 Queen St. W. (& 416/599-4442; subway: Osgoode).
If there’s such a thing as an elixir of life, one of the bartenders at this
tenderloin with lemon curry sauce. Asian inspirations are in evidence, particularly in seafood dishes, like sautéed squid served with satay-worthy peanut sauce
and pickled vegetables. For dessert, Dutch spiced apple pie is the standout.
2009 Yonge St. & 416/483-3747. Reservations required. Main courses C$15–$17 (US$11–$12). AE, MC, V.
Wed–Fri noon–2pm; Tues–Sat 6–10pm. Subway: Davisville.
LAOTIAN/THAI There’s no shortage of Thai eateries
in Toronto, but only a few specialize in the cooking of Thailand’s northwestern
Lanna region. Many Laos natives have relocated to Lanna, and strong, spicy
Laotian influences permeate the cooking. One of the house specialties is grilled
chicken and garlic served with lime-chile sauce. The busy dining room attracts
casually dressed diners of all ages, all of whom the thoughtful staff treats with
care.
Vanipha Lanna
471 Eglinton Ave. W. & 416/484-0895. www.vanipha.ca. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$8–$15 (US$5.60–$11). AE, MC, V. Mon and Wed noon–10pm; Tues and Thurs 5–10pm; Fri noon–10:30pm;
Sat 1–10:30pm. Subway: Eglinton.
INEXPENSIVE
Hannah’s Kitchen LIGHT FARE National magazines and newspapers have
published several of its recipes, but this cubbyhole-like eatery remains defiantly
low-key. Diners seat themselves at wooden banquettes or tiny tables. The menu
includes many pasta dishes, both cold (pesto radiatore salad with chicken and
NORTH OF THE CITY
115
Annex favorite is sure to find it one day. They’ve already developed
a Bionic Brain Tonic (peach, strawberry, and orange juices with gotu
kola and ginseng) and about 40 other blends intended to boost your
immune system, sex drive, or mood. The noodle and rice dishes have
equally esoteric names (Buddha, Green Goddess), though their contents are down-to-earth. The high- protein almond grain burgers and
hemp-seed bread get top marks. Main courses C$8–$12 (US$5.60–
$8.40); Mon–Fri 8:30am–6:30pm, Sat 9am–6:30pm, Sun 10am–6pm.
• Kalendar (p. 95) may be a small bistro, but its list of vegetarian offerings is substantial.
• Mezzetta (p. 113) offers a collection of Middle Eastern appetizers, few
of which contain meat; ordering a selection of three of four makes for
a substantial meal.
• Millie’s Bistro (p. 112) has a vegetarian lasagna with portobello mushrooms, sweet roasted peppers, and leeks that will make you wonder
why anyone would want to add beef. The Mediterranean menu has
many meat-free plates.
• Senses (p. 90) offers a vegetarian tasting menu that changes frequently, but might include curried-squash ravioli or a salad of
Jerusalem artichoke, olives, and beets. Yum!
• Truffles (p. 101) is another top-notch restaurant with a vegetarian
tasting menu. Called the Menu Terroir, it might feature the likes of
white bean and truffle soup, or a salad of frisee with Roquefort, walnuts, and apples; C$65 (US$46) for five courses.
pine nuts is the top pick) and hot (penne arrabiata has the spiciest sauce in
town), with three or four daily specials. Occasional forays into the exotic include
a few Indonesian rice dishes and the ever-popular pad Thai. Desserts are a must,
so check out the selection behind the counter on your way in.
2221 Yonge St. & 416/481-0185. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$7–$12 (US$4.90–$8.40).
MC, V. Mon–Fri 10am–10pm. Subway: Eglinton.
Rebel House LIGHT FARE This casual spot is beloved by locals. Is the draw
the warm welcome, the better-than-average pub grub, or the impressive selection of microbrews? The crowd is mainly 20- to 30-somethings decked out in
designer casualwear, more intent on socializing than eating. The specialty of the
house is hearty, simple fare; grilled Atlantic salmon and seared Angus strip loin
are top picks. Pastas and salads are worth a taste, too.
1068 Yonge St. & 416/927-0704. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$8–$18 (US$5.60–$13).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–11pm; Sun 11:30am–10pm (bar open till 1am Mon–Sat and 11pm Sun).
Subway: Rosedale.
7 North of the City
Toronto is a sprawling city, and as it has expanded, new and inspiring restaurants have cropped up in formerly out-of-the-way regions. The area north of
Steeles Avenue is experiencing a remarkable boom. These restaurants are beyond
116
the reach of the Toronto subway system. If you’ve rented a car to go to the
McMichael Canadian Art Collection in Kleinburg or to the Canada’s Wonderland theme park, you might want to stop on the way back downtown. (For driving directions, see chapter 6.)
EXPENSIVE
Terra
INTERNATIONAL This restaurant feels as if it was airlifted out
of the downtown core. Sleek and sophisticated, it is the sibling of uptown’s
North 44, and the cooking at Terra is appropriately splendid. The kitchen favors
seafood, from appetizers like butter-poached lobster with shallots and honey
mushrooms to entrees like pan-fried sea bream with baby bok choy, candied
beets and fava beans. There are several steak plates, with everything from a 10ounce filet of beef to a 16-ounce porterhouse. Believe it or not, there are also
numerous vegetarian offerings. Desserts include classic crème brûlée and a more
unusual pecan and blueberry cheesecake. The lengthy wine list hits all the international high notes, though most bottles are quite pricey.
8199 Yonge St. (just south of Hwy. 407), Thornhill. & 905/731-6161. www.terrarestaurant.ca. Reservations
recommended. Main courses C$17–$49 (US$12–$34). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 6–11pm.
MODERATE
CHINESE There’s a Grand Yatt restaurant at the Westin Harbour Castle hotel; this is the original. The large space is quite plain in comparison with its downtown offspring, but the cooking here is widely considered
better. This is Cantonese cuisine at its finest. The seafood—black cod, geoduck
(a large clam), or jumbo shrimp—is fresh as a daisy, and needs only light seasoning to bring out the intense natural flavors. Shark’s fin soup is a perennial
favorite. The swift servers are extremely helpful.
Grand Yatt
9019 Bayview Ave., Richmond Hill. & 905/882-9388. Main courses C$12–$18 (US$8.40–$13). AE, MC, V.
Daily 9am–3pm and 6–10pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Dante’s
ITALIAN Predating the current boom in the area, Dante’s has
been the favorite local spot for down-home cooking since 1976. It’s not hard to
figure out why. The menu has something for everyone, the food is consistently
good, and the prices are reasonable. Don’t expect to find exotic risottos—stick
to heaping plates of pasta like rigatoni with black and green olives, or homemade
cannelloni. One serving of chicken parmigiano can feed two adults.
267 Baythorn Dr. (just off Yonge St.), Thornhill. & 905/881-1070. Main courses C$7–$14 (US$4.90–$9.80).
AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs noon–10pm; Fri–Sat noon–midnight.
10:19 pm, Jan 29, 2005
6
What to See & Do
F
irst the good news: Toronto has
amazing sights to see and places to be
that appeal to travelers of all stripes.
The bad news? No matter how long
your stay, you won’t be able to fit everything in. Toronto is a sprawling city,
and while downtown and midtown
boast a sizable collection of attractions,
some wonderful sights are in less accessible areas. Travelers in 2004 should
note that some of the city’s great sites,
such as the Royal Ontario Museum
and the George R. Gardiner Museum
of Ceramic Art, will be undergoing
extensive renovations throughout the
year, making substantial parts of their
collections unavailable for viewing—
or even shutting down entirely for
months.
Keep in mind that many Toronto
attractions could take up a whole day.
Ontario Place, Harbourfront, the
Ontario Science Centre, and Paramount Canada’s Wonderland all come
to mind. That’s not even mentioning
the parks, the arts scene, or the shopping possibilities. My best advice is to
relax and bring a good pair of walking
shoes. There’s no better way to appreciate Toronto than on foot.
SUGGESTED ITINERARIES
If You Have 1 Day
kids in tow, you might want to
Start out early in the morning in
check out the dinosaur displays at
Kensington Market, and pick up
the Royal Ontario Museum (much
breakfast from one of the Middle
of the ROM is under renovation,
Eastern, Asian, or North African
but the dinosaurs, as well as the Bat
cafes. Kensington adjoins Toronto’s
Cave and hands-on earth sciences
main Chinatown; stroll down
areas are still easily accessible).
Spadina Avenue and head east
Before dinner, try to buy samealong Dundas Street to enjoy it.
day tickets to a show in the adjoinAlong Dundas you’ll find the Art
ing Theater District. Then dine
Gallery of Ontario; spend at least a
out at one of the fine restaurants
couple of hours there, and be sure
along King Street West (see chapto take in the collection of sculpter 5 for suggestions).
tures by British artist Henry Moore. If You Have 2 Days
For lunch, head to the gallery’s
On the first day, follow the itinerary
marvelous restaurant, Agora, or to
for 1 day. On day 2, start by wannearby Baldwin Street for Chinese
dering the grounds of Exhibition
food. It’s a short walk from here to
Place, and arrive at the gates of
Queen’s Park, where the Ontario
Ontario Place at 10am sharp;
Legislature meets; the surrounding
allow about half a day for Ontario
greenery affords a respite from the
Place. If it’s a clear sunny day, go
asphalt jungle. Head up to trendy
from there to the top of the CN
Yorkville, with its small galleries,
Tower and drink in the matchless
boutiques, and cafes. If you have
118
C H A P T E R 6 . W H AT TO S E E & D O
view. Glance over at SkyDome as
you pass by. Head up to the architectural wonder that is City Hall at
Nathan Phillips Square, then continue east to the Eaton Centre.
After you’ve shopped until you
drop, ride a streetcar to Little Italy,
along College Street. There’s no end
of dining options; try to score a
patio seat if the weather’s fine. This
is another prime neighborhood for
nightlife, so unless you’ve scored
tickets to a game at the Air Canada
Centre, you can hang out here.
If You Have 3 Days
This is when I’d recommend going a
little farther afield. (You could also
just allot more time to the previously
mentioned sights.) Start your day at
the highly interactive Ontario Science Centre. If the weather’s good,
you could spend the rest of the day
reveling in the 600 acres of Sunnybrook Park. If the weather isn’t so
favorable, this could be your afternoon to explore Casa Loma or the
Hockey Hall of Fame. If another
museum isn’t your thing, head to the
Harbourfront Centre, which offers
restaurants, live music, activities for
kids, and varied events. At night, go
to Greektown along the Danforth,
where the many tavernas stay open
late.
If You Have 4 Days or More
Now you can really start to explore
Toronto. If you’ve followed the itinerary for the first 3 days, you might
want to return to some sights. Otherwise, you could head north of
Toronto to see the McMichael
Canadian Art Collection in Kleinburg or, if the kids outvote you, to
spend the day at Paramount
Canada’s Wonderland. There’s no
better way to spend a day than picnicking on the lush Toronto Islands,
where you can rent bicycles, take the
kids to Centreville amusement park,
and get a whole new view of the city.
A less traveled site is scenic Cabbagetown, with its Edwardian and Queen
Anne–style architecture, Riverdale
Farm, and Gothic Necropolis. With
4 days or more, you should also be
able to sample the city’s lively arts
scene, taking in a theater or dance
performance. Try to hit a comedy
club while you’re at it, and check out
one of Toronto’s sports teams, too.
1 The Top Attractions
ON THE LAKEFRONT
Harbourfront Centre
Back in 1972, the federal government took
Kids
over a 96-acre strip of waterfront land to preserve the vista. It wasn’t exactly
prime real estate at the time, but that has changed in the decades since. The
abandoned warehouses and crumbling factories have yielded to a stunning
urban playground that now stretches over the old piers. Today, Harbourfront is
one of the most popular destinations for locals and visitors alike: a great place to
spend a day strolling, picnicking, gallery-hopping, biking, shopping, and sailing.
Queens Quay, at the foot of York Street, is the first stop you’ll encounter on
the LRT line from Union Station (you can also get there in 5 minutes on foot
walking south from Front Street, but that requires walking under the Gardiner
Expressway, which I personally hate). From here, boats depart for harbor tours,
and ferries leave for the Toronto Islands. In this renovated warehouse you’ll find
the Premiere Dance Theatre and two floors of shops. To get something to eat,
you can stay at Queen’s Quay for the casual Boathouse Grill or walk west to
York Quay for its new Lakeside Terrace restaurant. York Quay also boasts an art
gallery and ever-changing art installations, and an information booth where you
can pick up information on Harbourfront events.
T H E TO P AT T R AC T I O N S
119
Harbourfront has several venues devoted to the arts. There’s the Power Plant,
a contemporary art gallery, and behind it, the Du Maurier Theatre Centre. At
the Craft Studio you can watch artisans blow glass, throw pots, and make silkscreen prints, and you if you’ve inspired you can buy their works at Bounty
Contemporary Canadian Craft Shop. There are the Artists’ Gardens, which
currently include 23 diverse outdoor gardens created by landscape architects,
designers and other artists. In summer, one don’t-miss experience is a visit to the
Toronto Music Garden, which was created by cellist Yo Yo Ma and landscape
designer Julie Moir Messervy to invoke Bach’s First Suite for Unaccompanied
Cello. Does it succeed? That’s a matter of opinion, but in mine the series of free
musical performances that run from late June to early September make this a
heavenly place to visit.
More than 4,000 events take place annually at Harbourfront, including the
Harbourfront Reading Series in June and the International Festival of
Authors in October (see “Toronto Calendar of Events” in chapter 2). Other
happenings include films, dance, theater, music, children’s events, multicultural
festivals, and marine events. Harbourfront is at its best in the summer, but it is
a great destination for the whole family year-round.
235 Queens Quay W. & 416/973-3000 for information on special events, or 416/973-4000 (box office).
www.harbourfront.on.ca. Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay or York Quay.
Ontario Place Kids When this massive recreation complex on the shores of
Lake Ontario opened in 1971, it seemed futuristic. Thirty-three years later, it
still does. (The major face-lift in 1989 no doubt helped.) From a distance, you’ll
see five steel-and-glass pods suspended on columns 32m (105 ft.) above the lake,
three artificial islands, and a huge geodesic dome. The five pods contain a multimedia theater, a children’s theater, a high-technology exhibit, and displays that
tell the story of Ontario in vivid kaleidoscopic detail. The dome houses Cinesphere, where an 18-by-24m (60-by-80-ft.) screen shows specially made IMAX
movies year-round.
In 2003, Ontario Place introduced several new attractions targeted at kids.
These include the H2O Generation Station, a gigantic “soft play” structure
with twisting slides, towers, and walkways. There’s also the new Atom Blaster,
which claims to be Canada’s largest foam-ball free-for-all—this is fun for the
whole family. For the small fry, there’s the new MicroKids play area with its ball
pit, climbing platforms, and other tot-appropriate draws.
At night, the Molson Amphitheatre can accommodate 16,000 concertgoers: 9,000 can fit in the reserved seating area under the canopy, and 7,000
more can find seating on the surrounding grass. The venue features top-line
entertainers such as Tori Amos, Peter Gabriel, James Taylor, and Bryan Adams.
For concert information, call & 416/260-5600; for tickets, call Ticketmaster
(& 416/870-8000).
955 Lakeshore Blvd. W. & 416/314-9811, or 416/314-9900 for recorded info. www.ontarioplace.com.
Admission to grounds and Children’s Village only is C$11 (US$7.70) for ages 4 and over; free for children 3
and under; separate fees for rides and events. Play All Day pass C$28 (US$20) adults and children 6 and over,
C$16 (US$11) seniors and children 4–5, free for children 3 and under. IMAX movies C$8 (US$5.60) adults,
C$6 (US$4.20) seniors and children 13 and under. Mid-May–Labour Day, daily 10am–dusk; evening events
end and dining spots close later. Closed (except Cinesphere) early Sept–early May. Subway: Bathurst or
Dufferin, then Bathurst streetcar south.
In only 7 minutes, an 800-passenger ferry takes
Kids
you to 245 hectares (612 acres) of island parkland crisscrossed by shaded paths
and quiet waterways—a glorious spot to walk, play tennis, bike, feed the ducks,
The Toronto Islands
What to See & Do in Downtown
401
College
Dundas
ALEXANDRA
PARK
St.
CHINATOWN
D’Arcy St.
1
St.
Beverley
Bathurst
West
6
West
Richmond
St.
West
Adelaide
St.
West
5
St.
St.
THEATRE DISTRICT
Peter
Queen
7
GRANGE
PARK
Augusta
Ave.
John St.
King St. West
Wellington St. West
Spadina
Air Canada Centre 27
Allan Gardens 10
Art Gallery of Toronto 7
Campbell House 16
Canadian Broadcasting Centre 24
ChumCity 5
City Hall 13
CN Tower 25
Design Exchange 19
Eaton Centre 12
The Grange 6
Harbourfront Centre 26
Hockey Hall of Fame 22
Hummingbird Centre 21
Kensington Market 1
Mackenzie House 11
Maple Leaf Gardens 9
Old City Hall 14
Ontario Place 2
Osgoode Hall 15
Royal Bank Plaza 23
St. Lawrence Market 20
SkyDome 4
Textile Museum of Canada 8
Toronto Dominion Tower 18
Toronto Music Garden 3
TSX Broadcast
& Conference Centre 17
Baldwin St.
St. Andrews
St.
Spadina Ave.
Augusta
Kensington Pl.
Kensington Ave.
St.
Nassau St.
N
St.
Bathurst
Lake Ontario
Ave.
Oxford St.
TTC Subway
2
Ave.
TORONTO
427
St.
area of detail
Portland St.
Front St. West
Peter St.
4
Esplanade West
The
Gardiner Expressway
3
Queens Quay West
2
Church
Post Office
TTC Subway
120
Bathurst
Quay
Spadina
Quay
Maple Leaf Quays
College
St.
9
Carlton St.
COLLEGE
Bay
St.
QUEEN'S PARK
St.
West
Gerrard
St.
10
East
St.
St.
Jarvis
12
St.
11
St.
St.
OLD
TOWN
19
Wellington St. East
21
23
UNION
22
Union Station
Jarvis St.
East
ast
St. E
20
The Esplanade
St.
20
t
Fron
St.
Lombard
St.
Sherbourne
King
KING
East
Market St.
Royal
Bank
Plaza
MOSS
PARK
Scotia
Plaza
St.
St. East
Church St.
First
Canadian
Place
Adelaide St. East
18
Convention
Centre
Queen
Richmond
Temperance St.
ST. ANDREW
24
QUEEN
Scott St.
York
17
St.
Yonge St.
St.
St.
Sheppard St.
Queen
Shuter
Victoria St.
Bay
14
Bay St.
15
Royal
Alexandra
Theatre
Simcoe St.
Dundas St. East
t.
nS
Hage r m a
Nathan
Phillips
Square
OSGOODE
Duncan
Sherbourne
DUNDAS
13
16
St.
Church
St.
Simcoe St.
8
University Ave.
McCaul St.
St. Patrick St.
ST. PATRICK
Edward
Yonge
Bus
Terminal
Elm St.
Chestnut
St.
St.
Gerrard
ALLAN
GARDENS
25
Esplanade West
York
East
shore Blvd.
Lake
s Quay
Queen
27
East
26
HARBOURFRONT PARK
York Quay
Toronto Islands
ferry terminal
John
Quay
Lake Ontario
To Toronto
Islands
1/4 mi
0
N
0
0.25 km
121
What to See & Do in Midtown
1
TORONTO
427
D av e n
area of detail
2
port Rd.
TTC Subway
2
DUPONT
Dupont St.
N
en
D av
po
Lake Ontario
Spadina Rd.
401
Rd
rt
Prince Arthur
BATHURST
3
SPADINA
Devonshire Pl.
ST. GEORGE
Sussex Ave.
Nassau St.
Kin
St. George St.
College Rd.
Huron St.
Oxford St.
C ircle
Spadina
Circle
Spadina Ave.
Brunswick Ave.
Bathurst St.
College St.
Willcocks St.
Hart
House
Circle
Co
g's ll
4
e
eg
Palmerston Blvd.
Ulster St.
Varsity
Stadium
Hoskin Ave.
Harbord St.
122
Bedford Rd.
St. George St.
Huron St.
Madison Ave.
Spadina Rd.
Brunswick Ave.
Lowther Ave.
Bloor St. West
TTC Subway
Pears
.
Bernard Ave.
The Bata Shoe Museum 3
Casa Loma 1
George R. Gardiner
Museum of Ceramic Art 6
Ontario Legislature 9
Queen’s Park 8
Royal Ontario Museum
(ROM) 5
Spadina Historic House
& Gardens 2
Toronto Reference Library 7
University of Toronto 4
0
1/8 mile
N
0
100 meters
Pricefield Rd.
Mac Pherson Ave.
Chestnut Pk.
Roxborough St. West
Roxborough St. East
ROSEDALE
Ave.
Crescent Rd.
v e.
Ro
Berryman St.
Yonge St.
k
7
Yorkville Ave.
Ave.
le
r
Pa
ch
Rd
.
Vall
ey R
ur
Scollard St.
da
Ch
Bay St.
Hazelton
se
S t.
Cumberland St.
SHERBOURNE
Bloor St. East
BLOOR-YONGE
St.
BAY
5
d.
M ount Pleasant Rd.
Avenue Rd.
Ave.
Pears
A
6
Hayden St.
St.
Charles St.
Irwi
n Av
e.
Gloucester St.
Wellesley St. West
Bay St.
WELLESLEY
Wellesley St. East
Alexander St.
Grenville St.
College St.
QUEEN'S PARK
COLLEGE
Wood St.
MAPLE LEAF
GARDENS
Jarvis St.
Maitland St.
Church St.
9
Dundonald St.
QUEEN’SS
QUEEN
PARK
8
Isabella St.
Jarvis St.
St. Marys St.
Yonge St.
Charles
St. Thomas
Queen’s Park
Sultan St.
MUSEUM
Carlton St.
ALLAN
GARDENS
Gerrard St. West
Gerrard St. East
123
124
putter around in boats, picnic, or lap up the sun. Of the 14 islands, the two
major ones are Centre Island and Ward’s Island. The first is the most popular
with tourists; Ward’s is more residential (about 600 people live in modest cottages on the islands). Originally, the land was a peninsula, but in the mid-1800s
a series of storms shattered the finger of land into islands.
On Centre Island, families enjoy Centreville (& 416/203-0405), an oldfashioned amusement park that’s been in business since 1966. You won’t see the
usual neon signs, shrill hawkers, and greasy hot-dog stands. Instead you’ll find a
turn-of-the-century village complete with a Main Street, tiny shops, a firehouse,
and the Far Enough Farm, where the kids can pet lambs, chicks and other barnyard animals. The kids will also love trying out the antique cars, fire engines,
old-fashioned train, authentic 1890s carousel, flume ride, and aerial cars. An allday ride pass costs C$16 (US$11) for those less than 124cm (49 in.) tall, C$22
(US$15) for those over 1.25m (4 ft.). Centreville is open from 10:30am to 6pm,
daily from mid-May to Labour Day, and weekends in early May and September.
Lake Ontario. & 416/392-8193 for ferry schedules. Round-trip fare C$5 (US$3.50) adults, C$3 (US$2.10)
seniors and children14–19, C$2 (US$1.40) children 13 and under, free for children 2 and under. Ferries leave
from docks at the bottom of Bay St. Subway: Union Station, then LRT to Queens Quay.
DOWNTOWN
The exterior gives no hint of the light and
Kids
openness inside this beautifully designed gallery. The space is dramatic, and the
paintings imaginatively displayed. Throughout, audiovisual presentations and
interactive computer exhibits provide information on particular paintings or
schools of painters.
The European collections are fine, but the Canadian galleries are the real
treat. The paintings by the Group of Seven—which includes Tom Thomson,
F. H. Varley, and Lawren Harris—are extraordinary. In addition, other galleries
show the genesis of Canadian art from earlier to more modern artists. And don’t
miss the extensive collection of Inuit art.
The Henry Moore Sculpture Centre, with more than 800 pieces (original
plasters, bronzes, maquettes, woodcuts, lithographs, etchings, and drawings), is
the largest public collection of his works. The artist gave them to Toronto
because he was so moved by the citizens’ enthusiasm for his work—public donations bought his sculpture The Archer to decorate Nathan Phillips Square at City
Hall after politicians refused to free up money for it. In one room, under a glass
ceiling, 20 or so of his large works stand like silent prehistoric rock formations.
Along the walls flanking a ramp are color photographs showing Moore’s major
sculptures in their natural locations, which reveal their magnificent dimensions.
The European collection ranges from the 14th century to the French Impressionists and beyond. Works by Pissarro, Monet, Boudin, Sisley, and Renoir fill
an octagonal room. De Kooning’s Two Women on a Wharf and Karel Appel’s
Black Landscape are just two of the modern pieces. There are several works of
particular interest to admirers of the pre-Raphaelite painters, including one by
Waterhouse. Among the sculptures, you’ll find two beauties—Picasso’s Poupée
and Brancusi’s First Cry.
Behind the gallery, connected by an arcade, stands the Grange. Dating
back to 1817, it’s Toronto’s oldest surviving brick house, and it was the gallery’s
first permanent space. Originally the home of the Boulton family, it was a gathering place for many of the city’s social and political leaders and for such
eminent guests as Matthew Arnold, Prince Kropotkin, and Winston Churchill.
Art Gallery of Ontario
125
Meticulously restored and furnished to reflect the 1830s, it is a living museum
of mid-19th-century Toronto life. Entrance is free with admission to the art
gallery.
The gallery has an attractive restaurant, Agora (p. 87), which is open for
lunch, as well as a cafeteria and a gallery shop. There’s also a full program of
films, concerts, and lectures.
317 Dundas St. W. (between McCaul and Beverley sts.). & 416/977-0414. www.ago.net. Admission C$12
(US$8.40) adults, C$9 (US$6.30) seniors and students, C$6 (US$4.20) children 6–15, free for children 5 and
under. Free admission Wed 6–8:30pm. Tues and Thurs–Fri 11am–6pm; Wed 11am–8:30pm; Sat–Sun
10am–5:30pm. Grange House Tues–Sun noon–4pm; Wed noon–9pm. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Subway: St.
Patrick.
CN Tower Kids As you approach the city, whether by plane, train, or automobile, the first thing you notice is this slender structure. Glass-walled elevators
glide up the 553m (1,815-ft.) tower, the tallest freestanding structure in the
world. The elevators stop first at the 346m-high (1,136-ft.) Look Out level. (It
takes just 58 seconds, so prepare for popping ears.) You can walk down one level
to experience the Glass Floor, my favorite spot at the tower: Through it you can
see all the way down to street level (even as your heart drops into your shoes).
As a bonus, if you wait long enough, you’ll undoubtedly see some alpha males
daring each other to jump on the glass. (They do, and no, it doesn’t break—the
glass can withstand the weight of 14 adult hippos. Now that’s a sight I’d like to
see . . . )
The tower attractions are often revamped. Some perennial draws are the
IMAX theater and two airplane simulators (one gentle and calm, the other a
rugged ride through caves and over mountains). A series of interactive displays
showcases the CN Tower along with such forerunners as the Eiffel Tower and
the Empire State Building. The Look Out also contains broadcasting facilities,
a nightclub, and the underwhelming 360 Revolving Restaurant (p. 86).
Above the Look Out is the world’s highest public observation gallery, the Skypod, 447m (1,465 ft.) above the ground (C$7/US$4.90 additional charge).
From here, on a clear day you can’t quite see forever, but the sweeping vista
stretches to Niagara Falls, 161km (100 miles) south, and to Lake Simcoe,
193km (120 miles) north. Unless you’re really taken with the tower, I wouldn’t
recommend it—the view from the Glass Floor is majestic enough for me
(for other great—and less expensive—ways to view Toronto, see “Great Toronto
Vistas”). Atop the tower sits a 102m (335-ft.) antenna mast erected over 31
weeks with the aid of a giant Sikorsky helicopter. It took 55 lifts (and no hippos)
to complete the operation.
301 Front St. W. & 416/868-6937. www.cntower.ca. Basic admission (Look Out & Glass Floor) C$19
(US$13) adults, C$17 (US$12) seniors, C$14 (US$9.80) children 4–12; Observation Experience (Look Out,
Glass Floor & Skypod) C$24 (US$17) adults, C$22 (US$15) seniors, C$19 (US$13) children 4–12; Total Tower
Experience (includes Look Out, Glass Floor, Skypod, film, and 2 rides) C$32 (US$22) all ages. Motion simulator rides C$8 (US$5.60). Daily 9am–11pm. Closed Dec 25. Subway: Union, then walk west on Front St.
Fun Fact Tough Enough
The CN Tower is built of sturdy stuff to resist the elements—contoured
reinforced concrete covered with thick glass-reinforced plastic—and
designed to keep ice accumulation to a minimum. The structure can withstand high winds, snow, ice, lightning, and earth tremors.
126
Moments Great Toronto Vistas
I have a secret: While I know I should be impressed by the view from
the CN Tower, I find it uninspiring. Don’t get me wrong, it’s great to
see Niagara Falls on a clear day—but what I like is the view of Toronto
itself, which looks more like a map and less like a metropolis from
these dizzying heights. Here are some of my favorite viewing spots,
where you’ll get an altogether different picture of Toronto.
Bloor Street Viaduct The viaduct over the Don Valley connects Bloor
Street in midtown Toronto with the East End (where Bloor becomes
the Danforth). The pedestrian walkway will afford you what is possibly the most enchanting view there is to be had. From here, Toronto
doesn’t even look like a city—it seems like a lush forest. There are trees
as far as the eye can see, with skyscrapers and towers jutting out here
and there. If you don’t see it for yourself, you won’t believe it. Subway:
Castle Frank, and walk east along Bloor to the viaduct.
Canoe Restaurant Yes, there’s glorious food to be had here but the
view’s the thing. Located on the 54th floor of the imposing Toronto
Dominion Tower, Canoe boasts an amazing view of the castles of commerce in the Financial District, and the city beyond. If you don’t want
to shell out for an expensive dinner here (see review on p. 85), stop by
for a drink. Toronto Dominion Tower, 66 Wellington St. W. & 416/364-0054. Subway: King.
Casa Loma Toronto’s castle on a hill is one of the best perches from
which to savor the city’s beauty. Casa Loma has two towers, each with
its own charms. The enclosed Scottish tower on its east side offers the
highest viewing point, but the open-air Norman tower on the west
side has my favorite vista. 1 Austin Terrace, & 416/923-1171. Subway: Dupont,
then walk 2 blocks north.
The Roof Lounge at the Park Hyatt It’s only 18 stories up in Midtown,
and yet this classic watering hole has one of the best views in town. If
the weather’s even halfway decent, try to score a table on the southfacing balcony. From here you can appreciate the sweeping grandeur
of Queen’s Park and of the historic University of Toronto grounds. Park
Hyatt Toronto, 4 Avenue Rd. & 416/924-5471. Subway: Bay or Museum.
MIDTOWN
George R. Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art Across the street from the
ROM, North America’s only specialized ceramics museum houses a great collection of 15th- to 18th-century European pieces. Unfortunately, the Gardiner will
be closed for most of 2004 and part of 2005; the good news is that when it reopens
it will be grander than ever. Like its neighbor across the street, the museum will
undergo a massive renovation. The C$15-million (US$11-million) All Fired Up
plan will increase the Gardiner’s floor space from 19,000 square feet to 29,000,
and will allow far more of the vast—and growing—collection to be on display.
In case you manage to get to the Gardiner before the work begins, here’s a
taste of what you’ll see. The pre-Columbian gallery contains fantastic Olmec
127
and Maya figures, and objects from Ecuador, Colombia, and Peru. The majolica
gallery displays spectacular 16th- and 17th-century salvers and other pieces from
Florence, Faenza, and Venice, and a Delftware collection that includes fine 17thcentury chargers. Upstairs, the galleries contain 18th-century Continental and
English porcelain—Meissen, Sèvres, Worcester, Chelsea, Derby, and other great
names. All are spectacular. Among the highlights are objects from the Swan
Service—a 2,200-piece set that took 4 years (1737–41) to make—and an extraordinary collection of commedia dell’arte figures.
111 Queen’s Park. & 416/586-8080. www.gardinermuseum.on.ca. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$6
(US$4.20) seniors and students with ID. Free admission on the first Tues of every month. Mon, Wed, Fri
10am–6pm; Tues, Thurs 10am–8pm; Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Subway: Museum.
Royal Ontario Museum
This is one of my favorite museums anyKids
where. The ROM (rhymes with “tom”), as it’s affectionately called, is Canada’s
largest museum, with more than 6 million objects in its collections. Unfortunately, in 2004, many of those pieces won’t be on display because of the
museum’s ambitious renovation plan. Called Renaissance ROM, this C$200million (US$142-million) project will add six new galleries overlooking Bloor
Street West. The galleries will be encased inside an uber-modern palace of jutting crystal prisms designed by Daniel Libeskind. Personally, it brings to mind
Superman’s crystal palace at the North Pole, but I have to admit that the designs
look spectacular (check out the ROM’s website at www.rom.on.ca for details
and a webcam that shows the work-in-progress).
While the results promise to be grand and will allow the ROM to display far
more of its impressive collections, in the here and now the renovation makes the
museum a less appealing place to visit, in my opinion. The breathtaking terrace
galleries, which housed the world-renowned T. T. Tsui Galleries of Chinese Art,
are one casualty of the reno, and the ROM has also lost its stellar restaurant,
Jamie Kennedy at the Museum, which was one of the best in the city.
However, the ROM still deserves the two stars it gets this year. Intact exhibits
include the Ancient Egypt Gallery, which features several mummies, and the
Roman Gallery, which boasts the most extensive collection of its kind in
Canada. There’s also the Gallery of Korean Art, the largest exhibit of its kind
in North America (it holds more than 200 works from the Bronze Age through
Finds Serenity Now
While I’m all for progress, my one complaint about the ROM’s extensive
renovation plan is that it has muddled up the Bishop White Gallery, which
used to house a group of serene Southeast Asian Buddhas. (Last time I
was in, there were still some Buddhas, but they were surrounded by construction equipment. That’s not exactly the way to nirvana.) The Bishop
White Gallery is worth remembering because it’s supposed to be put back
in place when the reno runs its course. In the meantime, serenity-seekers
should head upstairs to the third-floor History of Style wing of the
Samuel European Galleries. While the kiddies are busy with the dinosaurs
on floor down, adults can rest in the roomy window seat–style nooks that
dot the exhibit. Each one has an audio presentation that’s well worth
listening to; my favorite is the one about lighting, which includes several
passages from Madame Bovary. Who knew that light at night used to be
considered the ultimate luxury?
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modern times). Another attraction is the new Christopher Ondaatje South
Asian Gallery (in case you’re curious, Christopher is the brother of Michael
Ondaatje, author of The English Patient).
Many of the exhibits that kids love best are still here. One is the Bat Cave, a
miniature replica of the St. Clair bat cave in Jamaica. It’s complete with more
than 3,000 lifelike bats roosting and flying through the air amid realistic spiders,
crabs, a wildcat, and snakes. Kids also enjoy the spectacular Dinosaur Gallery,
with its 13 skeletons on show. The hands-on Inco Limited Gallery of Earth
Sciences in another drawing card, with plenty of interactive exhibits that teach
kids how the world really works.
100 Queen’s Park. & 416/586-8000. www.rom.on.ca. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$7 (US$4.90)
seniors and students with valid ID, C$6 (US$4.20) children 5–14, free for children 4 and under. Pay what you
can Fri 4:30–9:30pm. Mon–Thurs 10am–6pm; Fri 10am–9:30pm; Sat 10am–6pm; Sun 11am–6pm. Closed
Jan 1, Dec 25. Subway: Museum.
ON THE OUTSKIRTS
The McMichael Canadian Art Collection In Kleinburg, 40km (25 miles)
north of the city, the McMichael is worth a visit for the setting as well as the art.
The collection occupies a log-and-stone gallery that sits amid quiet stands of trees
on 40 hectares (100 acres) of conservation land. Specially designed for the landscape paintings it houses, the gallery is a work of art. The lobby has a pitched roof
that soars 8m (27 ft.) on massive rafters of Douglas fir; throughout the gallery,
panoramic windows look south over white pine, cedar, ash, and birch.
The collection includes the work of Canada’s famous circle of landscape
painters, the Group of Seven, as well as David Milne, Emily Carr, and their
contemporaries. An impressive collection of Inuit and contemporary Native
Canadian art and sculpture is also on display. In addition, four galleries contain
changing exhibitions of works by contemporary artists.
Founded by Robert and Signe McMichael, the gallery began in 1965 when
they donated their property, home, and collection to the province of Ontario.
The collection has expanded to include more than 6,000 works. The museum
has a good book and gift store, filled with reproductions as well as one-of-a-kind
crafts, carvings and wall hangings by Canadian artisans.
10365 Islington Ave., Kleinburg. & 888/213-1121 or 905/893-1121. www.mcmichael.com. Admission C$15
(US$11) adults, C$12 (US$8.40) seniors and students with ID, free for children 5 and under. May 1–Oct 31
daily 10am–5pm; Nov 1–Apr 30 daily 10am–4pm. Closed Dec 25. Parking C$5 (US$3.50). By car: From
downtown, take Gardiner Expressway to Hwy. 427 north, follow it to Hwy. 7, and turn east. Turn left (north)
at first light onto Hwy. 27. Turn right (east) at Major Mackenzie Dr. and left (north) at first set of lights to
Islington Ave. and the village of Kleinburg. Or take Hwy. 401 to Hwy. 400 north. At Major Mackenzie Dr., go
west to Islington Ave. and turn right. By bus: From Islington station, take bus no. 37 to Steeles Ave., then take
the York Region bus no. 13 to the museum driveway (it’s about a 10-min. walk up the driveway from the bus
stop); note that separate fares are required for the 2 buses.
Described as everything from the world’s
Kids
most technical fun fair to a hands-on museum for the 21st century, the Science
Centre holds a series of wonders for children—800 interactive exhibits in 10
cavernous exhibit halls. More than a million people visit every year, so it’s best
to arrive promptly at 10am to see everything.
Wherever you look, there are things to touch, push, pull, or crank. Test your
reflexes, balance, heart rate, and grip strength; surf the Internet; watch frozensolid liquid nitrogen shatter into thousands of icy shards; study slides of butterfly wings, bedbugs, fish scales, or feathers under a microscope; tease your brain
with a variety of optical illusions; land a spaceship on the moon; watch bees
Ontario Science Centre
129
making honey; see how many lights you can light or how high you can elevate
a balloon with your own pedal power. The fun goes on and on through the
10 exhibit halls.
Throughout, small theaters show film and slide shows, and you can see regular 20-minute demonstrations of lasers, metal casting, and high-voltage electricity (which will literally make your hair stand on end). Another draw is the
Omnimax Theatre, with a 24m (79-ft.) domed screen that creates spectacular
effects. There are two eateries on-site: Galileo’s Bistro, a buffet-style restaurant
that serves alcohol, and Valley Marketplace, a cafeteria. The Mastermind shop
has a vast collection of educational toys and games.
While most of the Ontario Science Centre’s offerings are fun for the small fry,
one area that adults will appreciate is the re-creation of a rainforest environment.
On the bottom level of the building, it’s large enough that you can wander a bit
and forget the noise and blinking lights of the science arcade just beyond. One
caveat: Roam in here for long and you’ll feel as if you’ve hit a sauna.
770 Don Mills Rd. (at Eglinton Ave. E.). & 416/696-3127, or 416/696-1000 for Omnimax tickets. www.
ontariosciencecentre.ca. Admission C$14 (US$9.80) adults, C$10 (US$7) seniors and children 13–17, C$8
(US$5.60) children 5–12; free for children 4 and under. Omnimax admission C$11 (US$7.70) adults, C$8
(US$5.60) seniors and children 13–17, C$7 (US$4.90) children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Combination discounts available. July 1–Sept 4 daily 10am–6pm; Sept 5–June 30 daily 10am–5pm. Closed Dec 25.
Parking C$8 (US$5.60). Subway: Yonge St. line to Eglinton, then no. 34 Eglinton bus east to Don Mills Rd.
By car: From downtown, take Don Valley Pkwy. to Don Mills Rd. exit and follow signs.
Thirty minutes north of
Kids
Toronto lies Canada’s answer to Disney World. The 120-hectare (300-acre) park
features more than 140 attractions, including 60 rides, a water park, a play area
for tiny tots (KidZville), and live shows.
Adults and kids alike come for the thriller rides. Because the park relies on the
local audience, it introduces new rides every year. In 2003, it opened Sledge
Hammer, which it described as a “menacing mechanical giant”; true to its
billing, the behemoth stands 80 feet tall and hurls riders through accelerated
jumps and free-falls. Other top attractions include the Fly, a roller coaster
designed to make every seat feel as if it’s in the front car (the faint of heart can’t
hide at the back of this one!); Drop Zone, in which riders free-fall 70m (230 ft.)
in an open cockpit; Cliffhanger, a “super swing” that executes 360-degree turns
and makes riders feel immune to gravity; and the Xtreme Skyflyer, a hanggliding and skydiving hybrid that plunges riders 46m (150 ft.) in a free fall.
The roller coasters range from the looping, inverted Top Gun, to the track-free
suspended Vortex.
Paramount Canada’s Wonderland
Finds Retro Thrills
With the fanfare given to the new rides Paramount Canada’s Wonderland
introduces each summer, many park-goers overlook the older attractions.
The Wilde Beaste is one of the original roller coasters, and it’s still one of
the best. The first few times you hurtle along the track you’ll be convinced that the whole rickety structure is about to fall down at any
moment. Guess what—it was designed to feel that way! (Wonderland’s
safety standards are top-notch, so have no worries on that front.) Other
tried-and-true favorites include the Minebuster and the Dragon Fire.
A bonus: shorter queues!
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Where to Eat When You’re Going to . . .
In my experience, one of the most difficult things about travel is coordinating where you want to go with where you want to eat. All too
often you find yourself at a great museum, only to realize that the
great restaurant you wanted to try out is on the other side of town. To
make your planning easier, here are some of Toronto’s top attractions,
and the excellent restaurants that are nearby (note that all restaurants
mentioned here are reviewed in chapter 5).
• Art Gallery of Ontario: The AGO has an excellent restaurant, Agora,
but it’s only open for lunch. Instead, head over to Chinatown for
Sang Ho (536 Dundas St. W.), Happy Seven (358 Spadina Ave.) or
Lee Garden (331 Spadina Ave.). Or, if you’re in the mood for French
cuisine, the best nearby is at La Bodega (30 Baldwin St.).
• CN Tower and SkyDome: The tower’s main dining room, 360, is popular with tourists, and while I can certainly recommend the view
I’m less enthusiastic about the food. But it’s a very short walk to
Senses (at the SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, 318 Wellington St. W.),
Rain (19 Mercer St.) and Avalon (270 Adelaide St. W.).
• Hummingbird Centre and Hockey Hall of Fame: You’re in luck here,
because the stellar Biff’s (4 Front St. E.) is just across the street.
You’re also right by Le Papillon (16 Church St.), HotHouse Cafe
(35 Church St.) and Young Thailand (81 Church St.)—three wellpriced places that serve impressive food.
• Ontario Science Centre: While people who work at the OSC love to
point out that it’s in the geographic center of Toronto, it’s
Nowheresville as far as food is concerned. But if you head west to
Yonge Street you’ll be spoiled for choice. If you went to the OSC,
presumably you have kids in tow, so Grano (2035 Yonge St.) would
be an excellent choice. Other good bets include Hannah’s Kitchen
(2221 Yonge St.), which is open only on weekdays, or Amore Trattoria (2425 Yonge St.), which is open 7 days a week.
• Royal Ontario Museum: The ROM has lost its stellar restaurant to its
ongoing renovations, but fortunately The Colony Kitchen (157 Bloor
St. W.) has opened across the street. Nearby Yorkville is full of great
spots, including Jacques Bistro du Parc (126A Cumberland St.). Head
just a few blocks west past Spadina and you’ll find a wide selection
of moderately priced spots such as Serra (378 Bloor St. W.) and
Nataraj (394 Bloor St. W.).
The Splash Works water park offers a huge wave pool and 16 water rides,
from speed slides and tube rides to special scaled-down slides and a kids’ play
area. You’ll also find Hanna-Barbera characters, including Scooby-Doo, strolling
around the park (and ready to get their picture taken with the kids). Additional
attractions include Wonder Mountain and its high divers (they take the
20m/66-ft. plunge down Victoria Falls to the mountain’s base), restaurants, and
shops. The Kingswood Theatre books top-name entertainers.
MORE MUSEUMS
131
You’ll definitely want to take a full day to see everything. If you picnic on the
grounds and forgo souvenirs, a family of four can “do” the park for about C$200
(US$140), depending on the age of the kids. Watch out, though, for the extra
attractions not included in the admission pass.
9580 Jane St., Vaughan. & 905/832-7000 or 905/832-8131. www.canadas-wonderland.com. Pay-One-Price
Passport (includes unlimited rides and shows but not parking, special attractions, or Kingswood Music
Theater) C$47 (US$33) adults and children 7 and over, C$23.50 (US$16) seniors and children 3–6, free for
children 2 and under. Admission only (no rides) C$25 (US$18). June 1–25 Mon–Fri 10am–8pm, Fri–Sat
10am–10pm; June 26–Labour Day daily 10am–10pm; late May and early Sept–early Oct Sat–Sun 10am–8pm.
Closed mid-Oct to mid-May. Parking C$7 (US$4.90). Subway: Yorkdale or York Mills, then GO Express Bus to
Wonderland. By car: From downtown, take Yonge St. north to Hwy. 401 and go west to Hwy. 400. Go north
on Hwy. 400 to Rutherford Rd. exit and follow signs. By car from the north, exit at Major Mackenzie.
The Toronto Zoo Kids Covering 284 hectares (710 acres) of parkland, this
unique zoological garden contains some 5,000 animals, plus an extensive botanical collection. Pavilions—including Africa, Indo-Malaya, Australasia, and the
Americas—and outdoor paddocks house the plants and animals.
One popular zoo attraction is at the African Savanna project. It re-creates a
market bazaar and safari through Kesho (Swahili for “tomorrow”) National Park,
past such special features as a bush camp, rhino midden, elephant highway, and
several watering holes. It also includes the Gorilla Rainforest, which opened in
the spring of 2001; it’s one of the most popular sights at the zoo—little wonder,
as this is the largest indoor gorilla exhibit in North America. In the summer of
2002, the zoo opened Splash Island, a kids-only water park that includes a
replica of a Canadian Coast Guard ship.
Ten kilometers (6 miles) of walkways offer access to all areas of the zoo. During the warmer months, the Zoomobile takes visitors around the major walkways to view the animals in the outdoor paddocks. The zoo has restaurants, a
gift shop, first aid, and a family center. Visitors can rent strollers and wagons,
and borrow wheelchairs. The African pavilion has an elevator for strollers and
wheelchairs. There’s ample parking and plenty of picnic areas with tables.
Meadowvale Rd. (north of Hwy. 401 and Sheppard Ave.), Scarborough. & 416/392-5900. www.toronto
zoo.com. Admission C$18 (US$13) adults, C$12 (US$8.40) seniors, C$10 (US$7) children 4–12, free for
children 3 and under. Summer daily 9am–7:30pm; spring and fall 9am–6pm; winter 9:30am–4:30pm. Last
admission 1 hour before closing. Closed Dec 25. Parking C$6 (US$4.20). Subway: Bloor–Danforth line to
Kennedy, then bus no. 86A north. By car: From downtown, take Don Valley Pkwy. to Hwy. 401 east, exit on
Meadowvale Rd., and follow signs.
2 More Museums
Imelda Marcos—or anyone else obsessed with
shoes—will love this museum, which houses the Bata family’s 10,000-item collection. The building, designed by Raymond Moriyama, is spectacular. The
main gallery, “All About Shoes,” traces the history of footwear. It begins with a
plaster cast of some of the earliest known human footprints (discovered in Africa
by anthropologist Mary Leakey), which date to 4 million B.C.
You’ll come across such specialty shoes as spiked clogs used to crush chestnuts
in 17th-century France, Elton John’s 12-inch-plus platforms, and Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau’s well-worn sandals. One display focuses on Canadian
footwear fashioned by the Inuit, while another highlights 19th-century ladies’
footwear. The second-story galleries house changing exhibits.
The Bata Shoe Museum
132
327 Bloor St. W. (at St. George St.). & 416/979-7799. www.batashoemuseum.ca. Admission C$6 (US$4.20)
adults, C$4 (US$2.80) seniors and students with ID, C$2 (US$1.40) children 5–14, C$12 (US$8.40) family
(2 adults, 2 children). Free to all first Tues of the month. Tues–Wed and Fri–Sat 10am–5pm; Thurs 10am–8pm;
Sun noon–5pm. Subway: St. George.
Life here moves at the gentle pace of rural
Kids
Ontario as it was more than a century ago. The original pioneers on this land
were Daniel and Elizabeth Strong, a newlywed couple in 1816 who cleared 100
acres of wilderness for farming and built a log house in their spare time. Eventually a village developed around this site, and many of the existing buildings
date from the 1860s. You can watch the authentically dressed villagers going
about their chores, spinning, sewing, rail splitting, sheep shearing, and threshing. Visitors can enjoy the villagers’ cooking, wander through the cozily furnished homesteads, visit the working mill, shop at the general store, or rumble
past the farm animals in a horse-drawn wagon. The beautifully landscaped village has more than 30 restored buildings to explore. Special events take place
throughout the year, from a great Easter egg hunt to Christmas by lamplight.
The restaurant is open from 11am to 3pm and features a special children’s
menu. Light snacks and refreshments are on sale all day at the Visitor’s Centre.
Black Creek Pioneer Village
1000 Murray Ross Pkwy. (at Steeles Ave. and Jane St.), Downsview. & 416/736-1733. www.blackcreek.ca.
Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$9 (US$6.30) seniors, C$6 (US$4.20) children 5–14, free for children 4 and
under. May–June Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 10am–5pm; July–Sept daily 10am–5pm;
Oct–Dec Mon–Fri 9:30am–4pm, Sat–Sun and holidays 10am–4:30pm. Closed Jan–Apr, Dec 25. Parking C$6
(US$4.20). Subway: Finch, then bus no. 60 west to Murray Ross Parkway.
Design Exchange Located in the old Stock Exchange Building, the Design
Exchange—or DX, as it prefers to be known—has become an important Canadian design museum. It showcases professionals’ work, but its main purpose is
to nurture designers of all types—graphic, industrial, interior, landscape, and
urban. It also serves as a clearinghouse and resource center for the design community. One of its most popular programs is CONNECT, DX’s national
student design competition, which is intended to foster and promote young
design talent. Note that Kubo DX, the on-site restaurant, is well worth a stop
(see the review of its sibling, the Colony Kitchen, on p. 103).
Finds Pssst . . . Want in on a Secret?
Toronto has a unique museum that is one of the city’s best-kept
secrets. It’s the History of Contraception Museum, at the JanssenOrtho building, 19 Green Belt Dr. (& 416/449-9444). The collection
occupies an airy atrium and contains more than 600 items, some of
which will make your jaw drop. (Ever wonder what mule earwax,
weasel testicles, and crocodile dung have in common? This is your
chance to find out.) The museum is extremely well curated, and many
of the prophylactics have fascinating stories behind them.
The only downside to the museum is that it’s far off the beaten
track—though the Ontario Science Centre is just a 5-minute drive
away. If you’ve already made it that far, hop on a southbound Don
Mills Road bus; there’s a stop at Green Belt Drive, and the JanssenOrtho building is a 2-minute walk up the street. It’s open Monday
through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and admission is free.
EXPLORING THE NEIGHBORHOODS
133
234 Bay St. & 416/363-6121. www.dx.org. Admission C$8 (US$5.60) adults, C$5 (US$3.50) seniors and
students with ID, free for children 13 and under. Mon–Fri 10am–6pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Closed Dec 25 and
Jan 1. Subway: King.
This 9-year-old gallery’s
Finds
original mission was to collect and exhibit the best Canadian art created since
1985; however, it is now showing some works by international artists, too. Currently, the Canadian collection includes works by Stephen Andrews, Genevieve
Cadieux, Ivan Eyre, Betty Goodwin, Micah Lexier, Arnaud Maggs, and Roland
Poulin. MOCCA’s mandate has been widening in recent years, and that has made
this gallery increasingly interesting. Some of the temporary exhibits have been
real eye-openers, in particular one about tattoo art entitled “Art for the Human
Canvas.” MOCCA is out of the way, geographically speaking, but it is on the
subway line, so the museum is very accessible. Best of all, admission is free!
Museum of Contemporary Canadian Art
Toronto Centre for the Arts, 5040 Yonge St., Toronto. & 416/395-0067. www.mocca.toronto.on.ca. Free
admission. Tues–Sun noon–5pm. Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1. Subway: North York Centre.
This fascinating museum is internationally
recognized for its collection of more than 8,000 historic and ethnographic textiles and related artifacts. You’ll find fine Oriental rugs, and cloth and tapestries
from all over the world. One gallery presents the work of contemporary artists.
The museum is small, so only a tiny portion of the collection is on display, but
you’ll always find a vibrant, interesting show.
Textile Museum of Canada
55 Centre Ave. & 416/599-5321. www.museumfortextiles.on.ca. Admission C$8 (US$5.60) adults, C$6
(US$4.20) seniors, students, and children 5 and over, free for children 4 and under. Pay what you can
ed 5–8pm. Tues and Thurs–Fri 11am–5pm; Wed 11am–8pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1.
Subway: St. Patrick.
3 Exploring the Neighborhoods
Toronto is a patchwork of neighborhoods, and the best way to discover its soul
and flavor is to meander along its streets. On foot you can best appreciate the
sights, sounds, and smells—those elements that lend a particular area its unique
character. These are some of the most interesting neighborhoods.
DOWNTOWN WEST
CHINATOWN
Stretching along Dundas Street west from Bay Street to
Spadina Avenue and north and south along Spadina Avenue, Chinatown is
home to some of Toronto’s 350,000 Chinese-Canadian residents. Packed with
fascinating shops and restaurants, it even has bilingual street signs.
In Dragon City, a large shopping mall at Spadina and Dundas, you’ll find all
kinds of stores. Some sell Chinese preserves (like cuttlefish, lemon ginger, whole
mango, ginseng, and antler), and others specialize in Asian books, tapes, records,
fashion, and food. Downstairs, a fast-food court features Korean, Indonesian,
Chinese, and Japanese cuisine.
As you stroll through Chinatown, stop at the Kim Moon Bakery, 438
Dundas St. W. (& 416/977-1933) for Chinese pastries and a pork bun, or
go to one of the tea stores. A walk through Chinatown at night is especially
exciting—the sidewalks fill with people, and neon lights shimmer everywhere.
You’ll pass windows where ducks hang, gleaming noodle houses, record stores
selling the Top 10 in Chinese, and trading companies filled with Asian produce.
Another stop might be the New Asia Supermarket, 299 Spadina Ave. (& 416/
591-9314), around the corner from Dundas Street.
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To get to Chinatown, take the subway to St. Patrick and walk west. For more
details, see “Walking Tour: Chinatown & Kensington Market,” in chapter 7.
LITTLE ITALY Along College Street between Euclid and Shaw, Little Italy
competes with West Queen West for the hottest spot in the city. The area hums
at night, as people crowd the coffee bars, pool lounges, nightclubs, and trattorias. Notable restaurants in the area include Sottovoce (p. 96), Chiado (p. 88),
and Veni Vidi Vici (p. 94). There are also some great boutiques in the area, such
as Ewanika, 490 College St. (& 416/927-9699), which features chic, tailored
clothing for women who don’t normally like suits, and Mink, 550 College St.
(& 416/929-9214), a glittering oasis of faux gemstones. To get there, ride any
College Street streetcar west to Euclid Avenue.
QUEEN STREET WEST This street has over the years been known as the
heart of Toronto’s avant-garde scene. That would be a serious stretch today. Sure,
it’s home to several clubs—the BamBoo and the Rivoli, in particular—where
major Canadian artists and singers have launched their careers (see chapter 9), but
it’s also where you’ll find mainstream shops such as Club Monaco, Gap, and Le
Chateau. Edgy? Queen Street West would love to be, but it just isn’t anymore. (See
West Queen West, below, if you want a walk on the—somewhat—wilder side.)
Queen Street West officially starts at Yonge Street, but it doesn’t really pick
up, style-wise, till you cross University Avenue; it ends at Bathurst Street. There
are lots of great bistros in this neighborhood, such as Le Sélect (p. 92) and the
Taro Grill (p. 94). This is also prime shopping territory, with one-of-a-kind
clothing boutiques such as Price Roman, 267 Queen St. W. (& 416/9797363), and Peach Berserk, 507 Queen St. W. (& 416/504-1711). You’ll also
find a number of fine antiquarian bookstores, antiques and/or junk shops, nostalgic record emporiums, kitchen supply stores, and discount fabric houses.
To start exploring, take the subway to Osgoode and walk west along Queen
Street West.
WEST QUEEN WEST Queen Street West beyond Bathurst Street used to be
a no-man’s land—not because it was dangerous, but because little of importance
was believed to be that far from the downtown core. How times have changed:
West Queen West, as the neighborhood is now known, is one of the liveliest
’hoods in the city (one magazine dubbed it the coolest in the country—not that
a typically modest Torontonian would tell you that!).
West Queen West is all funky fun. It’s got great shops for housewares and
antiques, such as Quasi Modo, 789 Queen St. W. (& 416/703-8300),
and excellent small art galleries, such as the Stephen Bulger, 700 Queen St. W.
(& 416/504-0575). It’s also got some fine-but-affordable dining, at spots like
Swan (p. 94) and Cities (p. 91). To start exploring, take the subway to Osgoode
and walk west along Queen Street West, or take the streetcar over to Bathurst.
DOWNTOWN EAST
THE BEACHES This is one of the neighborhoods that makes Toronto a
unique city. Here, near the terminus of the Queen Street East streetcar line, you
can stroll or cycle along the lakefront boardwalk. Because of its natural assets,
it has become a popular residential neighborhood for young boomers and their
families, and there are plenty of browseable stores along Queen Street.
Just beyond Waverley Road, you can turn down through Kew Gardens to the
boardwalk and walk all the way past the Olympic Pool to Ashbridge’s Bay Park.
To get to the Beaches, take any Queen Street East streetcar to Woodbine
Avenue.
ARCHITECTURAL HIGHLIGHTS
135
MIDTOWN WEST
YORKVILLE This area stretches north of Bloor Street, between Avenue Road
and Bay Street. Since its founding in 1853 as a village outside the city proper,
Yorkville has experienced many transformations. In the 1960s, it was Toronto’s
Haight-Ashbury, the countercultural mecca for young suburban runaways otherwise known as hippies. In the 1980s, it became the shopping ground of the
chic, who dropped their money liberally at such boutiques as Hermès, Chanel,
and Cartier, and at the neighborhood’s many fine art galleries. In the early
1990s, the recession left its mark—a fact that became glaringly obvious when
Creeds, a Toronto institution, shut its doors. The restored town houses began to
look a little forlorn, but today the energy is back. Bloor Street and Hazelton
Lanes continue to attract high-style stores, including a branch of Tiffany’s.
Stroll around and browse—or sit out in the sun at one of the many cafes on
Yorkville Avenue or Cumberland Avenue, and watch the parade go by. Make
sure you wander through the labyrinths of Hazelton Lanes, between Avenue
Road and Hazelton Avenue. You’ll find a maze of shops and offices clustered
around an outdoor court in the center of a building that is topped with
apartments—one of the most sought-after addresses in the city. The courtyard
plays host to outdoor dining in summer and skating in winter.
While you’re in the neighborhood (especially if you’re an architecture buff ),
take a look at the red-brick building on Bloor Street at the end of Yorkville
Avenue that houses the Toronto Reference Library. Step inside and you’ll find
one of Toronto’s most serene spots. To reach Yorkville, take the subway to Bay.
MIRVISH VILLAGE One of the city’s most illustrious characters is Honest
Ed Mirvish, who started his career in the 1950s with a no-frills department store
at the corner of Markham and Bloor streets (1 block west of Bathurst). Even
from blocks away, neon signs race and advertisements touting bargains hit you
from every direction. Among his other accomplishments, Mirvish saved the
Royal Alexandra Theatre on King Street from demolition, established a row of
adjacent restaurants for theater patrons, and developed this block-long area with
art galleries, restaurants, and bookstores. He was responsible for saving and
renovating London’s Old Vic, too.
Stop by and browse, and don’t forget to step into Honest Ed’s (see “The Best
Bargains” on p. 180). To start your visit, take the subway to Bathurst.
THE EAST END
THE DANFORTH/GREEKTOWN This eclectic area along Danforth Street
east of the Don River is hot, hot, hot. It swings until the early hours, when the
restaurants and bars are still crowded and frenetic. During the day, visitors can
browse the traditional Greek stores—like Akropol, a Greek bakery at no. 458
(& 416/465-1232) that displays stunning multi-tiered wedding cakes in the
window. The neighborhood is becoming more ethnically diverse, and its new
character is reflected by stores like Blue Moon, no. 375 (& 416/778-6991),
which sells beautiful crafts from the developing world (the store supports only
producers that provide healthy working conditions and fair pay); and El Pipil,
no. 267 (& 416/465-9625), which has colorful clothing, knapsacks, and
jewelry. To get to the Danforth, ride the subway to Broadview and walk east.
4 Architectural Highlights
Toronto is a beautiful city in spite of itself—or rather, in spite of some of the
city planners and developers who have torn down valuable parts of the city’s
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architectural legacy in the name of progress. Toronto grew by leaps and bounds
in the Victorian and Edwardian eras, which is why there are so many stunning
buildings from those times (take a walk around the University of Toronto campus for a quick introduction to the different styles; also, the Ontario Legislature and the old City Hall stand out as particularly striking examples).
However, much of the 20th century wasn’t as kind: Clumsy planners plonked
the Gardiner Expressway near the waterfront—making what should have been
prime territory into a wasteland—and roughly 28,000 buildings were demolished between 1955 and 1975. A few of the buildings that went up during that
era were stunners, such as Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s black-glass TorontoDominion Centre and Viljo Rewell’s new City Hall. Still, there are a lot of forgettable buildings in town, but enough Gothic-inspired ones survived that
Toronto makes a convincing stand-in for New York on-screen. If you’re interested in exploring Toronto’s architectural history, the Royal Ontario Museum’s
ROMwalks programs are an excellent way to go (see “Organized Tours” later in
this chapter).
Casa Loma
Every city has its folly, and Toronto has an unusually
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charming one. It’s complete with Elizabethan-style chimneys, Rhineland turrets,
secret passageways, an underground tunnel, and a mellifluous name: Casa Loma.
Sir Henry Pellatt, who built it between 1911 and 1914, had a lifelong fascination with castles. He studied medieval palaces and gathered materials and furnishings from around the world, bringing marble, glass, and paneling from
Europe, teak from Asia, and oak and walnut from North America. He imported
Scottish stonemasons to build the massive walls that surround the 2.5-hectare
(6-acre) site.
It’s a fascinating place to explore. Wander through the majestic Great Hall,
with its 18m-high (60-ft.) hammer-beam ceiling; the Oak Room, where three
artisans took 3 years to fashion the paneling; and the Conservatory, with its elegant bronze doors, stained-glass dome, and pink-and-green marble. The castle
encompasses battlements and a tower; Peacock Alley, designed after Windsor
Castle; and a 1,800-bottle wine cellar. A 244m (800-ft.) tunnel runs to the
stables, where the luxury of Spanish tile and mahogany surrounded the horses.
I find it amusing to compare the Pellatts’ private suites. Lady Mary’s is overwhelmingly extravagant—you could house a family of four in her bathroom,
nevermind the bedroom, sitting area, sunroom, and so on. Sir Henry’s suite is
surprisingly modest: It’s relatively tiny, with the greatest extravagance being the
18-inch-diameter showerhead in the bathroom. It does make you wonder which
of them was the real driving force behind the building of the castle.
The tour is self-guided; pick up an audiocassette, available in eight languages,
upon arrival. From May to October, the gardens are open, too. There’s also a
Finds Walk This Way
Several doors on the first story of Casa Loma open to a grand terrace
that overlooks the gardens; most visitors step out, look at the gorgeous
fountain and flowers below, and then proceed with the castle tour. Their
mistake. From the terrace, it’s almost impossible to see the entrances
to several winding paths that lead around the extensive grounds and
command amazing views. Follow the grand staircase down and enjoy a
leisurely ramble.
ARCHITECTURAL HIGHLIGHTS
137
Druxy’s deli (part of a local chain) on-site, which is good to know, as there aren’t
many dining options nearby. Casa Loma hosts special events every March, July,
and December.
1 Austin Terrace. & 416/923-1171. www.casaloma.org. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$6.50 (US$4.55)
seniors and children 14–17, C$6 (US$4.20) children 4–13, free for children 3 and under. Daily 9:30am–5pm
(last entry at 4pm). Parking C$2.30 (US$1.60) per hour. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Subway: Dupont, then walk
2 blocks north.
City Hall
An architectural spectacle, City Hall houses the mayor’s office
and the city’s administrative offices. Daringly designed in the late 1950s by
Finnish architect Viljo Revell, it consists of a low podium topped by the flyingsaucer-shaped Council Chamber, enfolded between two curved towers. Its interior is as dramatic as its exterior.
In front stretches Nathan Phillips Square (named after the mayor who initiated the project). In summer you can sit and contemplate the flower gardens,
fountains, and reflecting pool (which doubles as a skating rink in winter), as well
as listen to concerts. Here you’ll find Henry Moore’s The Archer (formally,
Three-Way Piece No. 2), purchased through a public subscription fund, and the
Peace Garden, which commemorates Toronto’s sesquicentennial in 1984. In
contrast, to the east stands the Old City Hall, a green-copper-roofed Victorian
Romanesque-style building.
100 Queen St. W. & 416/338-0338. www.city.toronto.on.ca. Free admission. Self-guided tours Mon–Fri
8:30am–4:30pm. Subway: Queen, then walk west to Bay.
Eaton Centre Buttressed at both ends by 30-story skyscrapers, this high-tech
center, which cost over C$250 million (US$175 million) to build, stretches
from Dundas Street south along Yonge Street to Queen Street, an area that
encompasses 557,418 sq. m (6,000,000 sq. ft.). A Sears department store
(which replaced the original Eaton’s store) anchors the north sections, and more
than 285 stores and restaurants and two garages fill the rest. Some 20 million
people shop here annually.
Inside, the structure opens into the impressive Galleria, a 264m-long (866-ft.)
glass-domed arcade dotted with benches, orchids, palm trees, and fountains; it’s
further adorned by Michael Snow’s 60 soaring Canada geese, titled Step Flight.
The birds are made from black-and-white photos mounted on cast fiberglass
frames. Three tiers rise above, reached by escalator and glass elevators, which
afford glorious views over this Crystal Palace and Milan–style masterpiece
designed by Eb Zeidler (who also designed Ontario Place). Don’t be surprised
by the twittering of sparrows, some of which have decided that this environment
is as pleasant as the outdoors.
Dundas and Yonge sts. & 416/598-8700. www.torontoeatoncentre.com. Mon–Fri 10am–9pm; Sat
9:30am–7pm; Sun noon–6pm. Subway: Dundas or Queen.
Finds A Place in the Sun
While it’s easy to get carried away in the shops of Eaton Centre, don’t
overlook Trinity Square, on the west side of the building near the Sears
department store. The complex surrounds two of Toronto’s oldest landmarks: Trinity Church, dating to 1847, and Scadding House (& 416/5984521), home of Trinity’s rector. Concerned citizens demanded that the
developers not block sunlight from reaching the buildings. They got their
way—the sun continues to shine on the church’s twin towers.
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Ontario Legislature
At the northern end of University Avenue, with
University of Toronto buildings to the east and west, lies Queen’s Park. Embedded in its center is the rose-tinted sandstone-and-granite Ontario Legislature,
with stately domes, arches, and porte-cochères. At any time of year other than
summer, drop in around 2pm—when the legislature is in session—for some
pithy comments during the question period, or take one of the regular tours. It’s
best to call ahead to check times.
111 Wellesley St. W. (at University Ave.). & 416/325-7500. www.ontla.on.ca. Free admission. Year-round
Mon–Fri; Victoria Day–Labour Day Sat–Sun. Weekend tours every half-hour 9–11:30am and 1–4pm; call
ahead at other times. Subway: Queen’s Park.
Shimmering in the sun, Royal Bank Plaza looks like a
pillar of gold, and with good reason. During its construction, 2,500 ounces of
gold went into the building’s 14,000 windows as a coloring agent. More important, the structure is a masterpiece of architectural design. Two triangular towers of bronze mirror glass flank a 40m-high (130-ft.) glass-walled banking hall.
The external walls of the towers are built in a serrated configuration so that they
reflect a phenomenal mosaic of color from the skies and surrounding buildings.
In the banking hall, hundreds of aluminum cylinders hang from the ceiling,
the work of Venezuelan sculptor Jesús Raphael Soto. Two levels below, there’s a
waterfall and pine-tree setting that’s naturally illuminated from the hall above.
Royal Bank Plaza
Front and Bay sts. Free admission. Subway: Union.
Toronto Reference Library Step inside—a pool and a waterfall gently
screen out the street noise, and the space opens dramatically to the sky. Light
and air flood every corner. This structure is another masterwork by Toronto
architect Raymond Moriyama, who also designed the Bata Shoe Museum.
789 Yonge St. & 416/395-5577. Free admission. Year-round Mon–Thurs 10am–8pm; Fri–Sat 10am–5pm;
Thanksgiving–Apr Sun 1:30–5pm. Subway: Bloor.
5 Historic Buildings
Just across from Osgoode Hall (see below) sits the 1822
mansion of Sir William Campbell, a Loyalist and sixth chief justice of Upper
Canada. In 1829, he retired to this mansion, where he lived until his death in
1834. It was moved several blocks from its original location in 1972. The beautifully restored building features a collection of period furniture. Guided tours
take about half an hour and provide insight into Toronto’s early history.
Campbell House
160 Queen St. W. (at University Ave.). & 416/597-0227. Admission C$4.50 (US$3.15) adults; C$2.50
(US$1.75) seniors, C$3 (US$2.10) students with ID, C$2 (US$1.40) children ages 5–12, C$10 (US$7) family
(2 adults, 2 children). Year-round Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm; May–Oct also Sat–Sun noon–4:30pm. Subway:
Osgoode.
This charming, English-style Regency cottage with a threesided verandah was built in 1836–37 to take advantage of the view of Lake
Ontario and the Humber River. At the time, it was considered way out in the
country, and a bother to travel to during the harsh winters. In 1873, the owner,
a Toronto surveyor and architect named John Howard, donated the house and
surrounding land to the city in return for an annual salary. That created High
Park (see “Parks & Gardens,” below), a great recreational area.
Colborne Lodge
High Park. & 416/392-6916. Admission C$3.50 (US$2.45) adults, C$2.75 (US$1.90) seniors and children
13–18, C$2.50 (US$1.75) children 12 and under. Tues–Sun 10am–4pm. Call ahead; hours vary. Subway: High
Park.
H I S TO R I C BU I L D I N G S
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Established by Lieutenant Governor Simcoe in 1793 to defend
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“little muddy York,” as Toronto was then known, Americans sacked Fort York
in 1813. You can tour the soldiers’ and officers’ quarters, clamber over the ramparts, and view demonstrations. The fort really comes to life in summer, with
daily demonstrations of drill, music, and cooking. The fort is a few blocks west
of the CN Tower and 2 blocks east of Exhibition Place.
Fort York
100 Garrison Rd., off Fleet St., between Bathurst St. and Strachan Ave. & 416/392-6907. Admission C$5
(US$3.50) adults, C$3.25 (US$2.30) seniors and children 13–18, C$3 (US$2.10) children 6–12, free for
children 5 and under. Free parking. Mid-May to Labour Day daily 10am–5pm; Sept to mid-May Mon–Fri
10am–4pm, Sat–Sun 10am–5pm. Subway: Bathurst, then streetcar no. 911 south.
Mackenzie House This typical mid-19th-century brick row house, 2 blocks
east of Yonge and south of Dundas, gives some idea of what Toronto must have
looked like when the streets were lined with similar buildings. Concerned
friends and fundraisers bought it for William Lyon Mackenzie, leader of the
1837 rebellion, and he lived here from 1859 to 1861. It’s furnished in 1850s
style, and in the back there’s a print shop designed after Mackenzie’s own.
82 Bond St. & 416/392-6915. Admission C$3.50 (US$2.45) adults, C$2.75 (US$1.90) seniors and children
13–18, C$2.50 (US$1.75) children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. May–Sept 1 Tues–Sun noon–5pm, Sept
2–Dec Tues–Sun noon–4pm; Jan–Apr Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Subway: Dundas.
Osgoode Hall West of City Hall, an impressive, elegant wrought-iron fence
extends in front of an equally gracious public building, Osgoode Hall. Folklore
has it that the fence was built to keep cows from trampling the flowerbeds. Tours
of the interior reveal the splendor of the grand staircase, the rotunda, the Great
Library, and the fine portrait and sculpture collection. Construction began in
1829, and troops were billeted here after the Rebellion of 1837. It’s currently the
home of the Law Society of Upper Canada, the headquarters of Ontario’s legal
profession. The Court of Appeal for Ontario has several magnificent courtrooms
here. The courts are open to the public.
130 Queen St. W. & 416/947-3300. Free admission. Mon–Fri 9am–6pm. Free tours July–Aug Mon–Fri
1:15pm. Subway: Osgoode.
Here’s a trick locals play on unsuspecting visitors: Get them to pronounce “Spadina.” In the case of the avenue,
it’s spa-dye-na; for this lovely landmark, it’s spa-dee-na. Why? Who knows! But
if you want to see how the leading lights of the city lived in days gone by, visit
the historic home of financier James Austin. The exterior is beautiful, the interior even more impressive. Spadina House contains a remarkable collection of
art, furniture, and decorative objects. The Austin family occupied the house
from 1866 to 1980, and successive generations modified and added to the house
and its decor.
Tours (the only way to see the house) start on the quarter hour. Be warned
that while the guides are excellent, the video that they force you to watch before
the tour is laughable. (The narrator is the “spirit of the house,” and his rambling
Spadina Historic House & Gardens
Finds Park Yourself Here
Spadina House is the next-door neighbor of Casa Loma (p. 136). Between
the two is a small but lovely park that is almost hidden by the trees that
shade it. Many visitors don’t notice it, but locals love it. Grab a bench here
if you want to take a breather.
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comments—paired with a stagy Irish brogue—will make you wonder if the
video is a joke. It isn’t!). In summer, you can also tour the gorgeous gardens.
285 Spadina Rd. & 416/392-6910. Guided tour C$5 (US$3.50) adults, C$3.50 (US$2.45) seniors and
children over 12, C$3 (US$2.10) children 12 and under. Tues–Fri noon–4pm; Sat–Sun noon–5pm. Subway:
Dupont.
6 For Sports Fans
Toronto’s newest sports and entertainment complex is
home to the Maple Leafs (hockey) and the Raptors (basketball). Longtime fans
were crushed when the Leafs moved here in 1999 from Maple Leaf Gardens—
the arena that had housed the team since 1931—but the Air Canada Centre has
quickly become a fan favorite. Seating 18,700 for hockey, 19,500 for basketball,
and 20,000 for concerts, the center was designed with comfort in mind. Seating
is on a steeper-than-usual grade so that even the “nosebleed” sections have
decent sightlines, and the seats are wider . . . and upholstered.
Air Canada Centre
40 Bay St. (at Lakeshore Blvd.). & 416/815-5500. www.theaircanadacentre.com. Tours C$12 (US$8.40)
adults, C$10 (US$7) seniors and students with ID, C$8 (US$5.60) children 12 and under. Tours on the hour
daily 11am–3pm. Call ahead; no tours during events. Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay.
Canada’s Sports Hall of Fame In the center of Exhibition Place, this threefloor space celebrates the country’s greatest male and female athletes in all major
sports. Complementing the displays are touch-screen computers that tell you
everything you could want to know about particular sports personalities and
Canada’s athletic heritage.
Exhibition Place. & 416/260-6789. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–4:30pm. Subway: Bathurst, then streetcar no. 511 south to end of line.
Ice hockey fans will be thrilled by the artifacts
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collected here. They include the original Stanley Cup (donated in 1893 by Lord
Stanley of Preston), a replica of the Montréal Canadiens’ locker room, Terry
Sawchuck’s goalie gear, Newsy Lalonde’s skates, and the stick Max Bentley used.
You’ll also see photographs of the personalities and great moments in hockey
history. Most fun are the shooting and goalkeeping interactive displays, where
you can take a whack at targets with a puck or don goalie gear and face down
flying video pucks or sponge pucks.
Hockey Hall of Fame
In BCE Place, 30 Yonge St. (at Front St.). & 416/360-7765. www.hhof.com. Admission C$12 (US$8.40)
adults, C$8 (US$5.60) seniors and children 4–18, free for children 3 and under. Late June to Labour Day Mon–
Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun 10am–6pm; Sept to mid-June Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 9:30am–6pm, Sun 10:30am–
5pm. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25. Subway: Union.
SkyDome In 1989, the opening of 53,000-seat SkyDome, home to the
Toronto Blue Jays baseball team and the Toronto Argonauts football team, was
a gala event. In 1992, SkyDome became the first Canadian stadium to play host
to the World Series, and the Blue Jays won the championship for the first of two
consecutive years. The stadium represents an engineering feat, featuring the
world’s first fully retractable roof, which spans more than 3 hectares (8 acres),
and a gigantic video scoreboard. It is so large that a 31-story building would fit
inside the complex when the roof is closed.
1 Blue Jays Way. & 416/341-2770. www.skydome.com. Tours C$12.50 (US$8.75) adults, C$8 (US$5.60)
seniors and children 12–17, C$7 (US$4.90) children 4–11, free for children 3 and under. Tours on the hour
daily 11am–3pm. Call ahead; no tours during events. Parking C$6.50 (US$4.55). Subway: Union.
PA R K S, G A R D E N S & C E M E T E R I E S
141
7 Markets
Toronto’s markets are an important part of its heritage—and not just because
they bring regional produce into the city. The markets have traditionally been
surrounded by neighborhoods that have absorbed wave after wave of immigrants
into the city’s fabric. Make like a local and dive into the fray.
Kensington Market
This colorful, lively area should not be missed.
You’ll hear Caribbean, Portuguese, Italian, and other accents as merchants
spread out their wares—squid and
crabs in pails, chickens, pigeons,
Finds Say Cheese
bread, cheese, apples, pears, peppers,
ginger, and mangoes from the West
One Kensington Market spot
Indies, salted fish from Portuguese
I can’t resist is the Global Cheese
dories, lace, fabrics, and other colorful
Shoppe, 76 Kensington Ave.
remnants. There’s no market on Sun(& 416/593-9251). It stocks
day. Kensington Avenue itself is a
excellent offerings from around
treasure trove of vintage clothing
the world, and the staff is happy
stores. Admittedly there’s a lot of junk
to let you try anything. One irrehere, but there are also amazing finds
sistible choice is the made-into be had at shops such as Courage
Ontario goat cheese. Mmm . . .
My Love (14 Kensington Ave.; & 416/
979-1992). Most of the shops display
their wares out-of-doors in decent weather, adding to the color and charm of
the area.
Bounded by Dundas St., Spadina Ave., Baldwin St., and Augusta Ave. No central phone. Most stores open
Mon–Sat. Subway: St. Patrick, then Dundas St. streetcar west to Kensington.
This handsome food market is in a vast building constructed around the facade of the second city hall, built in 1850. Vendors sell
fresh meat, fish, fruit, vegetables, and dairy products as well as other foodstuffs.
The best time to visit is early Saturday morning, shortly after the farmers arrive.
St. Lawrence Market
92 Front St. E. & 416/392-7219. Tues–Thurs 8am–6pm; Fri 8am–7pm; Sat 5am–5pm. Subway: Union.
8 Parks, Gardens & Cemeteries
DOWNTOWN
George William Allan gave the city these gardens. He was
born in 1822 into a wealthy merchant-banking family, and part of his vast estate
was the land stretching from Carlton Street to Bloor Street between Jarvis and
Sherbourne in downtown. A lawyer by training, he became a city councilor,
mayor, senator, and philanthropist. The stunning glass-domed conservatory
dates back to 1910 and contains six greenhouses that cover 1,486 sq. m (16,000
sq. ft.). They are filled with colorful flora from around the world. The outdoor
park is rather seedy and should be avoided after sunset.
Allan Gardens
Between Jarvis, Sherbourne, Dundas, and Gerrard sts. & 416/392-1111. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.
Subway: Dundas.
MIDTOWN
High Park This 160-hectare (400-acre) park in the far west of Midtown was
surveyor and architect John G. Howard’s gift to the city. He lived in Colborne
Lodge, which still stands in the park. The grounds contain a large lake called
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Grenadier Pond (great for ice-skating), a small zoo, a swimming pool, tennis
courts, sports fields, bowling greens, and vast expanses of green for baseball, jogging, picnicking, bicycling, and more.
1873 Bloor St. W., stretching south to the Gardiner Expressway. No phone. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk.
Subway: High Park.
Located in Midtown East, this is one of the city’s oldest cemeteries, dating to 1850. Many of the remains were originally buried in Potters Field,
where Yorkville stands today.
Before strolling through the cemetery, pick up a History Tour at the office.
You’ll find the graves of William Lyon Mackenzie, leader of the 1837 rebellion,
as well as those of his followers Samuel Lount and Peter Matthews, who were
hanged for their part in the rebellion. Anderson Abbot, the first Canadian-born
black surgeon; Joseph Tyrrell, who discovered dinosaurs in Alberta; world-champion oarsman Ned Hanlan; and many more notable Torontonians lie in the
15-acre cemetery. Henry Langley, who is also buried here, designed the portecochère and Gothic Revival chapel.
Necropolis
200 Winchester St. (at Sumach St.). & 416/923-7911. www.mountpleasantgroupofcemeteries.ca. Free
admission. Daily 8am–dusk. Subway: Castle Frank, then bus no. 65 south on Parliament St. to Wellesley and
walk 3 blocks east to Sumach.
UPTOWN
This quiet, formal 14-hectare (35-acre) garden is part
of a series of parks that stretch over 240 hectares (600 acres) along the Don
Valley. Gracious bridges arch over a creek, rock gardens abound, and roses and
other seasonal flowers add color and scent. The garden is famous for its rhododendrons. The Civic Garden Centre operates a gift shop and offers free walking
tours on Tuesday and Thursday at 11am and 2pm. The Centre also boasts a fine
horticultural library.
Edwards Gardens
777 Lawrence Ave. E. (at Leslie St.). & 416/397-8186. Free admission. Daily dawn–dusk. Subway: Eglinton,
then no. 51 (Leslie) or no. 54 (Lawrence) bus.
Home to one of the finest tree collections in
North America, this cemetery is also the final resting place of many fascinating
people. Of particular note are Glenn Gould, the celebrated classical pianist; Dr.
Frederick Banting and Dr. Charles Best, the University of Toronto researchers
who discovered insulin in 1922; golfer George Knudson; the Massey and Eaton
families, whose mausoleums are impressive architectural monuments; Prime
Minister William Lyon Mackenzie King; Canada’s greatest war hero, Lieutenant
Colonel William Barker; and writer and editor Jim Cormier.
Mount Pleasant Cemetery
375 Mount Pleasant Rd., north of St. Clair Ave. & 416/485-9129. www.mountpleasantgroupofcemeteries.
ca. Free admission. Daily 8am–dusk. Subway: St. Clair.
9 Especially for Kids
The city puts on a fabulous array of special events for children at Harbourfront.
In March, the Children’s Film Festival screens 40 entries from 15 countries. In
April, Spring Fever celebrates the season with egg decorating, puppet shows,
and more; on Saturday mornings in April, the 5-to-12 set enjoys cushion concerts. In May, the Milk International Children’s Festival brings 100 international performers to the city for a week of great entertainment. For additional
information, call & 416/973-3000.
E S P E C I A L LY F O R K I D S
143
For 30 years, the Young Peoples Theatre, 165 Front St. E., at Sherbourne
Street (& 416/862-2222 for box office or 416/363-5131 for administration),
has been entertaining youngsters. Its season runs from August to May.
Help! We’ve Got Kids is an all-in-one directory for attractions, events, shops
and services appropriate for kids under 13 in the Greater Toronto area. It doesn’t
provide a lot of detail about most of the entries, but the listings make a great
starting point. A print copy costs C$12 (US$8.40); info is free at www.help
wevegotkids.com.
Look in the sections above for the following Toronto-area attractions that
have major appeal for kids of all ages. Tied for best venue (at least from a kid’s
point of view) are:
• Harbourfront (p. 118): Kaleidoscope is an ongoing program of creative
crafts, active games, and special events on weekends and holidays. There’s
also a pond, winter ice-skating, and a crafts studio.
• Ontario Place (p. 119): The Children’s Village, water slides, huge Cinesphere, futuristic pod, and other entertainment are the big hits at this recreational and cultural park. In the Children’s Village, kids under 13 can
scramble over rope bridges, bounce on an enormous trampoline, or drench
one another in the water-play section.
• Ontario Science Centre (p. 128): Kids race to be the first at this paradise
of hands-on games, experiments, and push-button demonstrations—800 of
them.
• Paramount Canada’s Wonderland (p. 129): The kids can’t wait to get on
the theme park’s roller coasters and daredevil rides. And don’t forget to
budget for video games.
• Toronto Zoo (p. 131): One of the best in the world, modeled after San
Diego’s—the animals in this 284-hectare (710-acre) park really do live in a
natural environment.
For more specialized interests:
• Art Gallery of Ontario (p. 124): For its hands-on kids’ exhibit.
• Black Creek Pioneer Village (p. 132): For craft and other demonstrations.
• Casa Loma (p. 136): The stables, secret passageway, and fantasy rooms capture children’s imaginations.
• CN Tower (p. 125): Especially for the interactive simulator games and the
terror of the glass floor.
• Fort York (p. 139): For its reenactments of battle drills, musket and cannon
firing, and musical marches with fife and drum.
• Hockey Hall of Fame (p. 140): Who wouldn’t want the chance to tend goal
against Mark Messier and Wayne Gretzky (with a sponge puck), and to
practice with the fun and challenging video pucks?
• Royal Ontario Museum (p. 127): The top hits are the dinosaurs and the
spooky bat cave, but the interactive earth sciences galleries are also a big
draw.
• Toronto Islands—Centreville (p. 119): Riding a ferry to this turn-of-thecentury amusement park is part of the fun.
A day here introduces kids to life on a farm. They’ll enjoy
hayrides, pony rides, and, in season, apple picking. There’s a playground, a straw
maze, and more. The store sells pies, cider, and other produce.
Chudleigh’s
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9528 Hwy. 25 (3km/1.8 miles north of Hwy. 401), Milton. & 905/826-1252. www.chudleighs.com. Orchard
admission C$5 (US$3.50), free for children 3 and under, C$12 (US$8.40) family (2 adults, 2 children). July–Oct
daily 10am–5pm. By car: From downtown, take Highway 401 west to Highway 25 (exit 320); follow Hwy. 25
north for about 3km (1.8 miles).
The half-scale village has great
appeal. The 11 hectares (27 acres) of gardens, the playground (with two splash
ponds), the shopping, and the live entertainment only add to the fun. There
are special events year-round, including various flower festivals in summer,
Halloween pumpkin carving in October, and fireworks at midnight on New
Year’s Eve.
Cullen Gardens & Miniature Village
Taunton Rd., Whitby. & 905/686-1600. www.cullengardens.com. Admission C$12.50 (US$8.75) adults, C$9
(US$6.30) seniors, C$5.50 (US$3.85) children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Free parking. Summer daily
9am–8pm; spring and fall daily 10am–6pm. Closed early Jan to mid-Apr. By car: From downtown, take Hwy.
401 east to Hwy. 12 (exit 410); drive north on Hwy. 12 to Taunton Rd.; turn left (west) at Taunton Rd. and
drive 1 km (1⁄ 2 mile).
Playdium The Playdium is an interactive pleasure palace, with its 3,066sq.-m (33,000-sq.-ft.) space filled with more than 200 games and simulators. It
also has rock-climbing walls, a 1.2km (3⁄ 4-mile) Go-Kart track, an IMAX theater,
batting cages, mini golf, and a lounge and restaurant. Beyond the sliding steel
door activated by an infrared sensor, you’ll discover a surreal scene of huge TV
screens, circuit boards, and neon and strobe-lit “alien squid mushrooms.”
99 Rathburn Rd. W. & 905/273-9000. www.playdium.com. C$2–$23 (US$1.40–$16) per game or attraction. Mon–Thurs noon–midnight; Fri noon–2am; Sat 10am–2am; Sun 10am–midnight. By car: Take Hwy. 401
to Hwy. 10 (Hurontario St.), and go south to Rathburn Rd. W.
Riverdale Farm
Idyllically situated on the edge of the Don Valley Ravine,
this working farm right in the city is a favorite with small tots. They enjoy
watching the cows and pigs, and petting the other animals. There are farming
demonstrations daily at 10:30am and 1:30pm.
201 Winchester St. (at Sumach St.). & 416/392-6794. Free admission. Daily 9am–5pm. Subway: Castle
Frank, then bus no. 65 south on Parliament St. to Wellesley and walk 3 blocks east to Sumach.
Wild Water Kingdom A huge water theme park, Wild Water Kingdom
encompasses a 20,000-square-foot wave pool, tube slides, speed slides, giant hot
tubs, and thrilling water rides (try the Midnight Express, which spirals through
some very dark tunnels). There are bumper boats, pedal boats, canoes, batting
cages, and mini golf, too. Note that the park may not be open in inclement
weather, so call ahead if in doubt.
Finch Ave., 1.6km (1 mile) west of Hwy. 427, Brampton. & 416/369-0123 or 905/794-0565. www.wild
waterkingdom.com. Admission C$24.50 (US$17) adults and children 10 and over, C$18.50 (US$13) seniors
and children 4–9, free for children 3 and under, flat rate of C$14.50 (US$10) per person after 4pm. June daily
10am–6pm; July to mid-Aug daily 10am–8pm; late Aug to Sept 2 daily 10am–6pm. By car: Take Hwy. 401 to
Hwy. 427 north; exit at Finch Ave. and drive 1.6km (1 mile) west. Or from downtown, take Queen Elizabeth
Way (QEW) to Hwy. 427 north; exit at Finch Ave. and drive 1.6km (1 mile) west.
10 Organized Tours
For summer weekends, it’s always a good idea to make tour reservations in
advance. At slower times, you can usually call the same day or simply show up.
BUS TOURS
If you enjoy bus tours, try the Greater Toronto Double Decker Circle Tour
offered by Gray Line, 184 Front St. E. (& 416/594-3310; www.grayline.ca). It
O R G A N I Z E D TO U R S
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goes to such major sights as the Eaton Centre, City Hall, Casa Loma, Chinatown, Harbourfront, SkyDome and the CN Tower, and a ticket allows you to
hop on and hop off the bus over a 2-day period. These tours, which operate daily
starting at 10am, cost C$32 (US$22) for adults, C$28 (US$20) for seniors, and
C$17 (US$12) for children 4 to 11; free for children 3 and under.
HARBOR & ISLAND TOURS
Mariposa Cruise Line (& 800/976-2442 or 416/203-0178; www.mariposa
cruises.com) operates 1-hour narrated tours of the harborfront and the Toronto
Islands from mid-May to September. There are five cruises a day, departing
between 11am and 4pm, and the cost is C$16.50 (US$12) for adults, C$15
(US$11) for seniors and students, and C$11.50 (US$8) for children 4 to 11.
Tours leave from the Queen’s Quay Terminal at 207 Queens Quay W.
For a real thrill, board the Kajama, a three-masted, 50m (164-ft.) schooner,
for a 90-minute cruise. The schedule varies, but through July and August there
are three tours a day on weekdays and weekends. Prices for the cruise are C$19
(US$13) for adults, C$17 (US$12) for seniors and students, and C$11 (US$8)
for children. For more information, call the Great Lakes Schooner Company,
249 Queens Quay W., Suite 111 (& 800/267-3866 or 416/260-6355; www.
greatlakesschooner.com).
INDUSTRIAL TOURS
Canadian Broadcasting Centre
The headquarters for the CBC’s
English-language networks (including television and radio), this building was
designed by Bregman + Hamann/Scott Associates, with John Burgee and Philip
Johnson as consultants. It’s one of the largest and most modern broadcasting
facilities in North America. The tour, which includes a visit to the rooftop studios, is well worth the money, but you can also stop by to check out the CBC
Museum (& 416/205-5574): It has a series of interactive exhibits and film clips
showcasing the CBC’s broadcast history; it’s open weekdays from 9am to 5pm
and Saturdays from noon to 4pm; and it’s free!
250 Front St. W. & 416/205-8605. www.cbc.ca/aboutcbc. Tour C$7 (US$4.90) adults, C$5 (US$3.50)
seniors, students, and children. Tours by appointment only. Subway: Union.
ChumCity This innovative television station contrasts dramatically with the
CBC’s formality. Housed in a beautifully restored early 20th-century building,
it’s a television factory where cameras are not hard-wired to studios or control
rooms. Instead of formal shows confined to studios, programs can flow minute
by minute from any working area in the building, including the hallways and
rooftop. From this location, the cutting-edge company operates three channels:
Citytv, a popular local news and “infotainment” station; MuchMusic, which is
devoted to interviews with rock stars, videos, and live music; and Bravo, a
24-hour arts channel. ChumCity has 100 permanently fixed remote-control
cameras, 25 mobile news cruisers, plus remote terminals at key locations such as
City Hall, Metro Hall, the TTC, and police headquarters. The results air on
“CityPulse” at noon, 6, and 11pm.
This futuristic, interactive TV station invites casual visitors to air their opinions and grievances. Simply enter Speakers Corner, a video booth at the corner
of John and Queen streets, and bare your soul before the camera. If you’re compelling or bizarre enough, you’ll get your 15 seconds of fame on a weekly halfhour show, or in short blurbs on Citytv and MuchMusic.
299 Queen St. W. (at John St.). & 416/591-7400, ext 2770. www.citytv.com. Subway: Osgoode.
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The Toronto Stock Exchange no
longer has a trading floor—all of its transactions are electronic now—but this
information center will be of interest to anyone who wants to learn more about
buying low and selling high. Newly renovated and expanded in 2003, the centre is a popular site for private corporate events, so it’s essential to call ahead to
make sure it’s open to the public on any given weekday.
TSX Broadcast & Conference Centre
Exchange Tower, 130 King St. W. (at York St.). & 800/729-5556 or 416/947-4676. www.tse.com. Free admission. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm. Call ahead to ensure site is open the day of your visit. Subway: St. Andrew.
WALKING & BIKING TOURS
Toronto is a city made for walking, and there’s no shortage of options for those
willing to pound the pavement. The Royal Ontario Museum has a ROMwalks
program (& 416/586-5513) throughout the summer that offers guided tours of
neighborhoods from the Entertainment District to the Danforth. Tours start at
6pm Wednesday and 2pm Sunday come rain or shine. Many of the walks are
free, though a few cost C$10 (US$7) per person. Also during the summer, the
Toronto Historical Board (& 416/392-6827) offers free walking tours of several neighborhoods, including Cabbagetown and Rosedale. Call ahead for details.
Year-round, A Taste of the World Neighbourhood Bicycle Tours and
Walks
(& 416/923-6813; www.torontowalksbikes.com) leads visitors
through the nooks and crannies of places like Chinatown, Yorkville, and
Rosedale. Walking tours cost C$15 (US$11) for adults, C$13 (US$9.10) for
seniors and students, and C$9 (US$6.30) for children under 12. Bike tours cost
C$45 (US$32), C$40 (US$28), and C$30 (US$21), respectively; the price
includes bike and helmet rental.
11 Outdoor Activities
Toronto residents love the great outdoors, whatever the time of year. In summer,
you’ll see people cycling, boating, and hiking; in winter, there’s skating, skiing,
and snowboarding.
For additional information on facilities in the parks, golf courses, tennis
courts, swimming pools, beaches, and picnic areas, call Toronto Parks and
Recreation (& 416/392-8186; www.city.toronto.on.ca/parks). Also see “Parks,
Gardens & Cemeteries,” earlier in this chapter.
BEACHES
The Beaches is the neighborhood along Queen Street East from Coxwell
Avenue to Victoria Park. It has a charming boardwalk that connects the beaches,
starting at Ashbridge’s Bay Park, which has a sizable marina. Woodbine Beach
connects to Kew Gardens Park and is a favorite with sunbathers and volleyball
players. Woodbine also boasts the Donald D. Summerville Olympic Pool.
Snack bars and trinket sellers line the length of the boardwalk.
Tips Don’t Drink the Water!
Situated on Lake Ontario, Toronto boasts several beaches where you can
lap up the sun. Just don’t lap up the polluted H2O, even though you’ll see
many Torontonians doing just that as they swim through the murky
waters. Lake Ontario has high counts of escherichia coli, a very nasty
bacteria that can cause ear, nose, and throat infections, skin rashes, and
diarrhea—not exactly the kind of souvenir you were looking for.
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
147
The Toronto Islands are where you’ll find the city’s favorite beaches. The
ones on Centre Island, always the busiest, are favorites with families because of
nearby attractions like Centreville. The beaches on Wards Island are much
more secluded. They’re connected by the loveliest boardwalk in the city, with
masses of fragrant flowers and raspberry bushes along its edges. Hanlan’s Point,
also in the Islands, is Toronto’s only nude beach.
BOATING & CANOEING
At the Harbourside Boating Centre, 283 Queens Quay W. (& 416/2033000), you can rent sailboats or powerboats and take sailing lessons. Depending
on the boat’s size, a 3-hour sailboat rental costs at least C$60 (US$42). Powerboats cost C$95 (US$67) and up. The center also offers weeklong and weekend
sailing courses.
The Harbourfront Canoe and Kayak School, 283A Queens Quay W.
(& 416/203-2277), rents kayaks for C$40 to $50 (US$28–$35) a day (higher
rates apply on weekends). Canoes go for C$35 to $45 (US$25–$32). Open daily
mid-June to Labour Day, weekdays only spring and fall, weather permitting.
You can also rent canoes, rowboats, and pedal boats on the Toronto Islands
just south of Centreville.
CROSS-COUNTRY SKIING
Just about every park in Toronto becomes potential cross-country skiing territory as soon as snow falls. Best bets are Sunnybrook Park and Ross Lord Park,
both in North York. For more information, call Toronto Parks and Recreation
(& 416/392-8186; www.city.toronto.on.ca/parks). Serious skiers interested in
day trips to excellent out-of-town sites like Horseshoe Valley can call Trakkers
Cross Country Ski Club (& 416/763-0173), which also rents equipment.
CYCLING
With biking trails through most of the city’s parks and more than 29km (18
miles) of street bike routes, it’s not surprising that Toronto has been acclaimed
as one of the best cycling cities in North America. Favorite pathways include the
Martin Goodman Trail (from the Beaches to the Humber River along the
waterfront); the Lower Don Valley bike trail (from the east end of the city north
to Riverdale Park); High Park (with winding trails over 160 hectares/400 acres);
and the Toronto Islands, where bikers roam free without fear of cars. For
advice, call the Ontario Cycling Association (& 416/426-7416) or Toronto
Parks and Recreation (& 416/392-8186).
Bike lanes are marked on College/Carlton streets, the Bloor Street Viaduct
leading to the Danforth, Beverly/St. George streets, and Davenport Road. The
Convention and Visitors Association can supply more detailed information.
Finds Walk/Jog/Cycle in Peace
One of the best places to walk, jog, or cycle in the city is the sprawling
Mount Pleasant Cemetery (p. 142). No, I’m not joking! The wide paths of
the cemetery are like roads, and there’s lots of space for everyone, from
athletic types to parents pushing strollers. Locals love this park-like space,
which abounds with trees and antique statuary, not just tombstones. It’s
a lively scene, and it’s anything but depressing.
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Moments Spas & the City
Maybe you have a kink in your neck you just can’t work out. Maybe
you’ve got a nasty case of jet lag that won’t quit. Or perhaps you’re
just in the mood for some pampering. In Toronto, you won’t have to
look too far: This city is spa heaven as far as I’m concerned. The standards are top-notch, the treatments range from the tried-and-true to
the innovative, and the prices tend to be quite reasonable. All of the
spas listed here cater to both women and men—so boys, don’t be shy
about trying them out.
Elizabeth Milan Hotel Day Spa Located in the underground concourse beneath the Fairmont Royal York, this spa has 11 treatment
rooms, including a luxuriously appointed bank vault that is now a VIP
treatment room for those who really want privacy. This spa has a number of treatments designed for men, including the Balinese Coffee
Scrub, a 60-minute treatment that exfoliates the skin and detoxes the
body. For men and women, there’s the Chocolate Body Indulgence, a
90-minute therapy that promises to soothe your body and mind. By
the way, there really is an Elizabeth Milan, and you’ll find her at work
at her eponymous spa every day. Fairmont Royal York, 100 Front St. W.
& 416/350-7500. www.elizabethmilanspa.com. Subway: Union.
Estée Lauder Spa Located in one of Toronto’s most luxurious stores is,
appropriately enough, one of the city’s most luxurious spas. Decorated
in modern-chic blond wood and glass (and with a seemingly endless
number of private treatment rooms), the spa provides a full range of
services, from manicures to massage. One of the most interesting
treatments is the Jet Lag facial, which rehydrates the skin;
during the facial, “lymphatic leg therapy” reduces puffiness and
swelling. My personal favorite is the new 90-minute Hot Lava Rock Body
There’s no shortage of bike-rental options. Renting usually runs about C$12
to $24 (US$8.40–$17) a day. On Centre Island, try Toronto Island Bicycle
Rental (& 416/203-0009). In the city, head for Wheel Excitement, 5 Rees St.,
near Harbourfront (& 416/260-9000); McBride Cycle, 180 Queens Quay W.,
at York Street, on the Harbourfront (& 416/203-5651); or High Park Cycle
and Sports, 24 Ronson Dr. (& 416/614-6689). If you’re interested in cycling
with a group, call the Toronto Bicycling Network (& 416/766-1985) for information about daily excursions and weekend trips.
FITNESS CENTERS
The Metro Central YMCA, 20 Grosvenor St. (& 416/975-9622), has excellent
facilities, including a 25m (82 ft.) swimming pool, all kinds of cardiovascular
machines, Nautilus equipment, an indoor track, squash and racquetball courts,
and aerobics classes. A day pass costs C$20 (US$14). The University of
Toronto Athletic Centre, 55 Harbord St., at Spadina Avenue (& 416/9784680), offers similar facilities for the same price.
For yoga aficionados, there’s no better place to stretch than the Yoga Studio,
344 Bloor St. W. (& 416/923-9366; www.yogastudio.net). A single class costs
OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
149
Massage, which will leave you soothed and happy after a 90-minute
deep-tissue massage. Just say aaaaaahhh . . . That really hit the spot. Holt
Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/960-2909. www.holtrenfrew.com. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
Stillwater Spa This is as serene a setting as you’ll find anywhere in
the city. Water is the theme here, and it undulates in streams under
transparent floor panels and courses down walls in mini-waterfalls.
Before you even get to the treatment rooms, you’ll be dazzled by the
changing areas, which include the expected whirlpool and sauna, but
also have private cabana-like nooks where you can recline which
watching TV with a headset (come in for a spa treatment and you can
spend all day here—seriously). Venture into the main lounge area and
you’ll find an aquarium, a fireplace, and a generous supply of biscotti.
Many of the treatments are hydro-centric too, like the delicioussmelling Mandarin Honey Body Glow, which uses a Vichy shower (you
lie on the table while warm water cascades over you). Park Hyatt Toronto,
4 Avenue Rd. & 416/924-5471. www.stillwaterspa.com. Subway: Bay or Museum.
Victoria Spa I’m a longtime massage fan, and one of the best I’ve
ever had was at the Victoria Spa, which is located on the third floor of
the Crowne Plaza Hotel. Decorated in an elaborate style that veers
from the classical to the baroque, this spa is wrapped around an
indoor pool and lounge. The woman behind the spa is Victoria Sutherland, and like Elizabeth Milan, you’ll find her daily at her pride and
joy. The Victoria Spa is famous for its luxurious pedicures, which
involve a hot milk foot bath, salt scrub, and massage—but in my opinion, all of the treatments, from facials to body therapies, meet the
same standard of excellence. Crowne Plaza Hotel, 225 Front St. W. & 416/
413-9100. www.victoriaspa.com. Subway: St. Andrew.
C$15 (US$11), or you can attend five classes for C$70 (US$49). Incidentally,
the studio has been known to draw visiting celebrities to its classes.
GOLF
Toronto is obsessed with golf, as evidenced by its more than 75 public courses
within an hour’s drive of downtown. Here’s information on some of the best.
• Don Valley, 4200 Yonge St. south of Highway 401 (& 416/392-2465).
Designed by Howard Watson, this is a scenic par-71 course with some
challenging elevated tees. The par-3 13th hole is nicknamed the Hallelujah
Corner (it takes a miracle to make par). It’s a good place to start your kids.
Greens fees are C$45 (US$32) from Monday to Thursday, and C$49
(US$34) Friday through Sunday.
• Humber Valley, 40 Beattie Ave. at Albion Road (& 416/392-2488). The
relatively flat par-70 course is easy to walk, and gets lots of shade from
towering trees. The three final holes require major concentration (the 16th
and 17th are both par-5s). Greens fees are C$27 to $42 (US$19–$29).
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• The Tam O’Shanter, at 2481 Birchmount Ave., north of Sheppard Avenue
East (& 416/392-2547). The par-70 course features links holes and water
hazards among its challenges. Greens fees are C$27 to $43 (US$19–$30).
• The Glen Abbey Golf Club, 1333 Dorval Dr., Oakville (& 905/8441800; www.glenabbey.com). The championship course is one of the most
famous in Canada. Designed by Jack Nicklaus, the par-73 layout traditionally plays host to the Canadian Open. Greens fees are C$130 (US$91) in
early spring and fall, C$235 (US$165) in summer.
Other championship courses of note include the Lionhead Golf Club in
Brampton (& 905/455-8400). It has two 18-hole par-72 courses; greens fees
are C$135 (US$95) for the tougher course, C$125 (US$88) for the easier
course. In Markham, the Angus Glen Golf Club (& 905/887-5157) has a
Doug Carrick–designed par-72 course. The greens fees range from C$120 to
$175 (US$84–$123).
Travelers who are really into golf might want to consider a side trip to
Muskoka (see chapter 10). This area just 90 minutes north has some of the best
golfing in the country at courses such as Taboo and the Deerhurst Highlands.
ICE-SKATING & IN-LINE SKATING
Nathan Phillips Square in front of City Hall becomes a free ice rink in winter,
as does an area at Harbourfront Centre. Rentals are available on-site. More than
25 parks contain artificial rinks (also
free), including Grenadier Pond in
Tips Skate Till You Drop?
High Park—a romantic spot, with a
bonfire and vendors selling roasted
Let’s say you’d like to go skating
chestnuts. They’re open from Novemwhile your traveling companion
ber to March.
wants to hit the shops. If you
In summer, in-line skaters pack
head to Hazelton Lanes, you
Toronto’s
streets (and sidewalks). Go
can both get what you want. A
with the flow and rent some blades
central courtyard doubles as a
from Planet Skate, 2144 Queen St. E.
skating rink. Better yet, the
(& 416/690-7588) or Wheel Exciteshopping center’s Customer
ment (see “Cycling,” above). A 1-day
Service Centre (& 416/968rental runs C$18 to $22 (US$13–
8600) offers complimentary
$15). Popular sites include the
skate rentals. It’s hard to beat a
Beaches, Harbourfront, and the
deal like that.
Toronto Islands.
JOGGING
Downtown routes might include Harbourfront and along the lakefront, or
through Queen’s Park and the University. The Martin Goodman Trail runs
20km (12 miles) along the waterfront from the Beaches in the east to the
Humber River in the west. It’s ideal for jogging, walking, or cycling. It links to
the Tommy Thompson Trail, which travels the parks from the lakefront along
the Humber River. Near the Ontario Science Centre in the Central Don Valley,
Ernest Thompson Seton Park is also good for jogging. Parking is available at
the Thorncliffe Drive and Wilket Creek entrances.
These areas are generally quite safe, but you should take the same precautions
you would in any large city.
S P E C TATO R S P O R T S
151
PARACHUTING
The Parachute School of Toronto (& 800/361-5867; www.parachuteschool.
com), is based at the Baldwin Airport, about 40 minutes north of Toronto.
Going for a dive costs C$220 (US$154) during the summer (the prices drops to
C$150/US$105 in winter). After morning instruction, you jump in the afternoon. Reservations aren’t required, but it’s essential to call ahead to make sure
the school’s plane is sky-bound that day. Geronimo!
ROCK-CLIMBING
The dilemma: indoors or outdoors? Toronto has several climbing gyms, including Joe Rockhead’s, 29 Fraser Ave. (& 416/538-7670), and the Toronto
Climbing Academy, 100 Broadview Ave. (& 416/406-5900). You can pick up
the finer points of knot tying and belaying. Both gyms also rent equipment.
For the real thing, you need to head out of town. Weekend excursions to the
Elora Gorge are organized through Humber College (& 416/675-5097).
SNOWBOARDING & SKIING
The snowboard craze shows no sign of abating, at least from January to March
(or anytime there’s enough snow on the ground). One popular site is the Earl
Bales Park, Bathurst Street (just south of Sheppard Ave.), which offers rentals.
The park also has an alpine ski centre, which offers both equipment rentals and
coaching. Call Toronto Parks and Recreation (& 416/392-8186) for more
information.
SWIMMING
The municipal parks, including High and Rosedale parks, offer a dozen or so
outdoor pools (open June–Sept). Several community recreation centers have
indoor pools. For pool information, call & 416/392-7838.
Visitors may buy a day pass (C$20/US$14) and use the pools at the YMCA,
20 Grosvenor St. (& 416/975-9622), and the University of Toronto Athletic
Centre, 55 Harbord St., at Spadina Avenue (& 416/978-4680).
TENNIS
More than 30 municipal parks have free tennis facilities. The most convenient
are the courts in High, Rosedale, and Jonathan Ashridge parks. They are open
in summer only. At Eglinton Flats Park, west of Keele Street at Eglinton Avenue,
six of the courts can be used in winter. Call City Parks (& 416/392-8186) for
additional information.
12 Spectator Sports
AUTO RACING The Molson Indy (& 416/872-4639; www.molsonindy.
com) runs at the Exhibition Place Street circuit, usually on the third weekend in
July.
BASEBALL SkyDome, 1 Blue Jays Way, on Front Street beside the CN
Tower, is the home of the Toronto Blue Jays. For information, contact
the Toronto Blue Jays, P.O. Box 7777, Adelaide St., Toronto, ON M5C 2K7
(& 416/341-1000; www.bluejays.ca). For tickets, which cost C$16 to C$60
(US$11–$42), call & 416/341-1234.
BASKETBALL Toronto’s basketball team, the Raptors, used to be the hottest
ticket in town, but it’s much easier to get one now. The team’s home ground is
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the Air Canada Centre, 40 Bay St., at Lakeshore Boulevard. The NBA schedule runs from October to April. The arena seats 19,500 for basketball. For information, contact the Raptors Basketball Club, 40 Bay St. (& 416/815-5600;
www.nba.com/raptors). For tickets, which cost C$25 to $125 (US$18–$88),
call Ticketmaster (& 416/870-8000).
FOOTBALL Remember Kramer on Seinfeld? He would only watch Canadian
football. Here’s your chance to catch a game. SkyDome, 1 Blue Jays Way, is
home to the Argonauts of the Canadian Football League. They play between
June and November. For information, contact the club at SkyDome, Gate 3,
Suite 1300, Toronto, ON M5V 1J3 (& 416/341-5151; www.argonauts.on.ca).
Argos tickets cost C$13 to $48 (US$9.10–$34); call Ticketmaster (& 416/
870-8000).
GOLF TOURNAMENTS Canada’s national golf tournament, the Bell
Canadian Open, usually takes place at the Glen Abbey Golf Club in Oakville,
about 40 minutes from the city (& 905/844-1800). Most years, it runs over the
Labour Day weekend.
HOCKEY While basketball is still in its honeymoon phase in Toronto,
hockey is a longtime love. The Air Canada Centre, 40 Bay St., at Lakeshore
Boulevard, is the home of the Toronto Maple Leafs (www.torontomapleleafs.
com). Though the arena seats 18,700 for hockey, tickets are not easy to come by,
because many are sold by subscription. The rest are available through Ticketmaster (& 416/870-8000); prices are C$25 to $100 (US$18–$70).
HORSE RACING Thoroughbred racing takes place at Woodbine Racetrack, Rexdale Boulevard and Highway 427, Etobicoke (& 416/675-6110 or
416/675-7223). It’s famous for the Queen’s Plate (usually contested on the third
Sun in June); the Canadian International, a classic turf race (Sept or Oct); and
the North America Cup (mid-June). Woodbine also hosts harness racing in
spring and fall.
TENNIS TOURNAMENTS Canada’s international tennis championships,
the AT&T Rogers Cup (for women) and the Montréal/Toronto Tennis Masters Series (for men), are important stops on the pro tours. They attract stars
like Jennifer Capriati, the Williams sisters, and Andre Agassi to the National
Tennis Centre at York University in August. The men’s and women’s championships alternate cities each year. In 2004, the women play in Montréal and the
men in Toronto. For more information, call & 416/665-9777 or check
www.tenniscanada.com.
7
City Strolls
T
oronto is one of the best walking
cities in the world. I know I’m boasting, but look at the evidence: the
patchwork of dynamic, ethnic neighborhoods, the impressive architecture,
and the many parks. Because the city
is such a sprawling place, however,
you’ll need to pick your route carefully.
WALKING TOUR 1
The walking tours in this chapter
aren’t designed to give you an
overview. They offer a look at the
most colorful, exciting neighborhoods
in the city, as well as areas that are
packed with sights on almost every
corner.
CHINATOWN & KENSINGTON
MARKET
Start:
Osgoode subway station.
Finish:
Queen’s Park subway station.
Time:
At least 2 hours. Depending on how long you want to linger at the Art
Gallery of Ontario and at various stops, perhaps as long as 8 hours.
Best Times:
Tuesday through Saturday during the day.
Worst Times:
Sunday, when many of the stores in Kensington Market close, and Monday,
when the Art Gallery is closed.
This walk takes you through the oldest of Toronto’s several Chinatowns. The
original Chinatown was on York Street between King and Queen streets, but
skyscrapers replaced it long ago. Although today there are at least four Chinatowns and most Chinese live in the suburbs, the intersection of Dundas
Street and Spadina Avenue is still a major shopping and dining area for the Asian
community. As a new wave of immigrants has arrived from Southeast Asian
countries—Thailand and Vietnam in particular—this old, original Chinatown
has taken them in. Today, many businesses are Vietnamese or Thai.
Successive waves of immigration have also changed the face of the nearby
Kensington Market. From the turn of the century until the 1950s, it was the
heart of the Jewish community. In the 1950s, Portuguese immigrants arrived to
work in the food-processing and meatpacking industries and made it their
home. In the ’60s, a Caribbean presence arrived. Today, traces of all these communities remain in the vibrant life of the market.
From the Osgoode subway station, exit on
the northwest corner of Queen Street and
University Avenue, and walk west on Queen
Street. Turn right onto McCaul Street. If
you’re interested in crafts, you’ll want to
stop at 52 McCaul St., on the left side of the
street, and visit the:
1 Prime Gallery
It sells ceramics, jewelry, fabrics, and
other art objects crafted by contemporary artisans.
On the right is:
154
CHAPTER 7 . CITY STROLLS
2 Village by the Grange
The apartment and shopping complex
consists of a series of courtyards (one
even contains a small ice-skating rink).
Go into the complex at the southern
end and stroll through, emerging from
the food market. En route you’ll come
across some small fashion boutiques
and 18 Karat (& 416/593-1648),
where the proprietors design and create jewelry behind the counter.
quasi-Gothic windows, and wroughtiron decoration, is a beauty. Too bad it
doesn’t offer tours.
You’re now walking into the heart
of Chinatown, with its grocery stores,
bakeries, bookstalls, and emporiums
selling foods, handcrafts, and other
items from Asia.
What follows are some of my favorite stops
along the stretch of Dundas Street between
Beverley Street and Spadina Avenue. On the
south or left side as you go west is:
6 Tai Sun Co.
TAKE A BREAK
Also in Village by the Grange
is one of the city’s oldest and
most popular Chinese restaurants, Sun Lok (& 416/593-8808). The
Food Market contains stalls that sell
everything—freshly brewed coffee,
schnitzels, satay, Japanese noodles, salads, falafel, hot dogs, Chinese food,
kabobs, pizza, and fried chicken.
Exit at McCaul Street and turn right to continue walking north. You’ll pass the Ontario
College of Art on the other side of the
street. At Dundas Street, you’ll encounter a
Henry Moore sculpture, Large Two Forms,
which describes precisely what it is. Turn left
onto Dundas Street. On the left is the
entrance to the:
3 Art Gallery of Ontario
If you don’t want to go in to see the
collections, you can browse the gallery
stores without paying admission. The
wonderful restaurant, Agora (p. 87),
is open for lunch.
At nos. 407–09, the supermarket carries dozens of different mushrooms,
all clearly labeled in English, as well as
fresh Chinese vegetables, meats, fish,
and canned goods. Melewa Bakery,
no. 433, has a wide selection of pastries, like mung-bean and lotus-paste
buns. Outside Kiu Shun Trading, no.
441, dried fish are on display; inside
you’ll find numerous varieties of ginseng and such miracle remedies as
“Stop Smoking Tea.”
On the north side of the street is:
7 J & S Arts and Crafts
This shop, at no. 430, is a good place
to pick up souvenirs, including
kimonos and happy coats, kung-fu
suits, address books, cushion covers,
and all-cotton Chinatown T-shirts.
Kim Moon, no. 438, is an Asian bakery that features almond cookies,
deep-fried taro pastries, and dim sum
pork buns.
Cross to the north side of Dundas Street,
opposite the Art Gallery. A worthwhile
stop is:
At the northwest corner of Huron and
Dundas streets, is:
4 Bau-Xi
At no. 454, Ten Ren sells all kinds of
tea—black, oolong, and so forth—
stored in large canisters in the back of
the store. Charming small ceramic
teapots are priced from C$25 to $75
(US$18–$53). You will probably be
asked to sample some tea in a tiny cup.
The large variety of gnarled ginseng
root on display is also for sale. Next
door, W Y Trading Co., Inc., has a
great selection of records, CDs, and
This gallery, at 340 Dundas St. W.
(& 416/977-0600), represents modern
Canadian artists. From here, continue
west along Dundas Street.
At the northwest corner of Dundas and
Beverley is the:
5 Consulate General of Italy
It doesn’t look like a government
building: The rambling late 19thcentury mansion, with its sandy brick,
8 Ten Ren Tea
Augusta Ave.
15
14
13
Kensington
Ave.
Kensington
Pl.
Augusta Ave.
21 20
18
17
11
Spadina Ave.
Glasgow St.
St.
Larch St.
Cameron St.
100 meters
Huron
1/8 mi
N
5
Sullivan St.
Grange Ave.
6
7
D’Arcy St.
Baldwin St.
Grange Pl.
Phoebe St.
8
Huron St.
9
Dundas St.
10
Andrews
St.
19
16 19
12
Stephanie
St.
1
START HERE
Grange Rd.
GRANGE
PARK
3
Dundas St.
4
Renfrew
Pl.
Beverley St.
0
23
Baldwin St.
Cecil St.
Beverley St.
Take a Break
25
Nassau St.
Henry St.
0
My Market Bakery
24
Abyssinia
23
Mendels Creamery
22
Asylum
Courage My Love
Dancing Days
The Pineapple Room
Win’s Flowers
Bellevue Park
Kiever Synagogue
Sasmart Smart Wear
Casa Acoreana
Perola Supermarket
Iberica Bakery
26
Oxford St.
McCaul St.
TTC Subway
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
N
27
College St.
McCaul St.
12
13
Prime Gallery
Village by the Grange
Art Gallery of Ontario
Bau-Xi
Consulate General
of Italy
Tai Sun Co.
J & S Arts and Crafts
Ten Ren Tea
Dragon City
Tai Kong Supermarket
Tap Phong Trading
Company
Plaiter Place
Medeiro’s Fish Market
area of detail
College St.
FINISH HERE
2
Orde St.
QUEEN'S PARK
ST. PATRCIK
Elm St.
Murray St.
6
7
8
9
10
11
2
TTC Subway
TORONTO
Lake Ontario
427
401
Ross St.
1
2
3
4
5
Simcoe St.
OSGOODE
Walking Tour 1: Chinatown & Kensington Market
St. Patrick St.
St.
Patrick
Mkt. Pl.
John St.
Soho St.
Spadina Ave.
155
156
tapes—everything from Chinese folk
songs and cantatas to current hit
albums from Hong Kong and Taiwan.
At no. 482A, Po Chi Tong is a fun
store that sells exotic remedies, like
deer-tail extract and liquid-gold ginseng or royal jelly. The best remedy of
all time is the “slimming tea.” Watch
the staff weigh each item out and total
the bill with a fast-clicking abacus.
At Spadina Avenue, cross over to the southwest corner to:
TAKE A BREAK
For fine, reasonably priced
food, a Chinatown favorite is
Happy Seven, 358 Spadina
Ave. (& 416/971-9820; see p. 95). If
you don’t mind lining up, head for the
ever-popular Lee Garden, 331 Spadina
Ave. (& 416/593-9524; see p. 95). For
speedy service, check out Co Yen, 334
Spadina Ave. (& 416/597-1573), a
Vietnamese takeout spot (there are
no seats). Continuing north, cross St.
Andrews Street.
9 Dragon City
The three-level Asian shopping complex at 280 Spadina Ave. is complete
with a food court. Here you’ll find
books, music, clothing, toys, and
homeopathic remedies under one
roof.
Spadina (pronounced spa-dye-na)
Avenue is the widest street in the city
because the wealthy Baldwin family
had a 40m (132-ft.) swath cut through
the forest from Queen Street to Bloor
Street so that they could view the lake
from their new home on top of Spadina Hill. Later, in the early 20th century, Spadina Avenue became Toronto’s
garment center and the focal point of
the city’s Jewish community. Although
it’s still the garment center, with
wholesale and discount fashion houses,
as well as the fur district (farther south
around Adelaide), today it’s more
Asian than Jewish.
If you enjoy strolling through supermarkets
filled with exotic Asian delights, including
such fruits as durian in season, visit the:
0 Tai Kong Supermarket
Look at all the different provisions—
chile and fish sauces, fresh meat and
fish (including live tilapia in tanks),
preserved plums, chrysanthemum tea
and other infusions, moon cakes, and
large sacks of rice.
! Tap Phong Trading Company
This shop, at 360 Spadina Ave., stocks
terrific wicker baskets of all shapes and
sizes, as well as woks and ceramic
cookware; attractive mortars and pestles; and other household items.
Cross Baldwin Street and you’ll come to:
@ Plaiter Place
At 384 Spadina Ave., it has a huge
selection of finely crafted wicker baskets, birdcages, woven blinds, bamboo
steamers, hats, and other fun items.
Fortune Housewares, no. 388, carries
kitchen and household items—
including brand names—for at least
20% off prices elsewhere in the city.
Now double back to Baldwin
Street. You’re heading into the heart of
the Kensington Market area, which
has always reflected the city’s waves of
immigration. Once it was primarily a
Jewish market; later it became a Portuguese neighborhood. Today, it is
largely Asian and Caribbean, but there
are still many Jewish and Portuguese
elements.
As you walk west, you’ll find:
# Medeiro’s Fish Market, Seven
Seas, and Coral Sea
At these and other fish stores on the
north side of the street, folks buy their
supplies of salt cod.
C H I N ATOW N & K E N S I N G TO N M A R K E T
157
$ My Market Bakery
) The Pineapple Room
The merchandise at 172 Baldwin St.
(& 416/593-6772) will doubtless
lure you in to buy some bread. Focaccia, sourdough—you name it, they
have it.
This shop at no. 2 stocks classic cocktail shakers and other doodads among
the clothes.
When you reach Kensington Avenue, turn left
and you’ll find:
% Abyssinia
It specializes in African and West
Indian products. You’ll also find Patty
King, which stocks Jamaican breads
and other West Indian goods, including roti, bread pudding, and tamarind
balls. Several seafood stores display a
variety of fresh fish and salted cod
piled in boxes on the sidewalk; and the
Royal Food Centre sells a variety of
Jamaican specialties, including goat.
^ Mendels Creamery
This shop, at no. 72, sells smoked fish,
herring, cheeses, and fine dill pickles.
Another door down, Global Cheese,
no. 76, offers an enormous selection at
good prices.
As you stroll south along Kensington Avenue
and pass Andrews Street, you will find a
series of secondhand and vintage clothing
stores.
& Asylum
At no. 42 Kensington Ave., on the
west side of the street, the store has
good jeans, leather jackets, and
assorted accessories. I once found a
silk Anne Klein scarf for C50¢
(US35¢) in one of the bargain bins
here.
* Courage My Love
The best spot for cheap but chic vintage clothing is at no. 14. It stocks
retro gowns and wedding dresses,
suits, and accessories, as well as new
jewelry and beads for do-it-yourself
projects.
( Dancing Days
At no. 17 (on the east side of the
street), you’ll find party-ready glad
rags that will make you look like an
extra in Grease!.
When you reach Dundas Street, turn right
and walk one block to Augusta Avenue.
Along the way you pass:
q Win’s Flowers
They have gorgeous greenery and
blossoms. The jade plants in particular
are extraordinarily beautiful.
Turn right on Augusta Avenue; as you walk
north, in the center of Denison Square, you’ll
find:
w Bellevue Park
The houses facing the south edge of
the park have cherry trees in front
of them; they are a colorful sight in
season.
Stroll through the park; at the corner of
Bellevue Avenue and Denison Square you’ll
find:
e Kiever Synagogue
This building at 28 Denison Square
was completed in 1927. Architect Benjamin Swartz designed it with Byzantine style in mind. The most striking
features outside are the twin domes
atop the building; inside, stained-glass
windows, brass ornaments, and a gigantic Holy Ark dominate the space. (The
Kiever Synagogue was the first specifically Jewish building designated a historic site by the province of Ontario.)
Turn back toward Augusta Avenue and
you’ll see:
r Sasmart Smart Wear
This discount store has the strangest
assortment of goods you’ll find anywhere. OshKosh clothing for kids is
on display near antique china; a little
farther along is kitchen gear (new and
used), luggage, and gadgets. It’s a
weird, cluttered space, but the prices
are unbeatable.
Walk north on Augusta to:
t Casa Acoreana
An old-fashioned store at no. 235, it
stocks a full range of fresh coffees, as
158
well as great pecans and filberts. Just
up the block at no. 214 is the Alvand
Food Mart (& 416/597-2252),
which specializes in Middle Eastern
foods and stocks imported goods from
the region.
Just up the street is:
y Perola Supermarket
This store at 247 Augusta Ave. displays cassava and strings of peppers—
ancho, arbol, pasilla—hung up to dry
and sitting in bins, plus more exotic
fruits and herbs.
TAKE A BREAK
If you’re in the neighborhood
after 5:30pm, a perfect place
to stop is La Palette, 256
Augusta Ave. (& 416/929-4900; p. 92).
Enjoy a meal of classic French bistro
staples—or tuck into one of the many
divine desserts.
WALKING TOUR 2
Cross Nassau Street to get to:
u Iberica Bakery
The bakery, where you can enjoy coffee and pastries at a handful of tables,
is on the east side of the street at 279
Augusta Ave. It represents one of the
few remaining traces of the Portuguese
presence in the Kensington Market
area. Other vestiges are the Portuguese
church on Nassau Street and the Portuguese radio station around the corner on Oxford Street. Now just walk
up to College Street and hop on the
streetcar that runs east to the Queen’s
Park subway station. The southbound
train will take you back downtown.
HARBOURFRONT
Start:
Union Station.
Finish:
Toronto Music Garden.
Time:
At least 2 hours.
Best Times:
Weekdays in summer.
Worst Time:
Weekends in summer, when Harbourfront is packed from end-to-end.
Weekends during the rest of the year are much better.
As you start your tour, pause to look at the beaux-arts interior of Union Station,
which opened in 1927. The hall has a cathedral-like ceiling, and 22 pillars that
weigh 70 tons each. From here, either take the LRT to York Quay or walk south
along York Street (away from the Fairmont Royal York hotel) to Queens Quay
West. On the way you’ll pass the Air Canada Centre, home to the Toronto
Maple Leafs hockey team and the Toronto Raptors basketball team. The Gardiner Expressway looms overhead, making this a noisy, dark spot.
When you reach the end of the street, you’re
at Queens Quay West. Look across to:
1 Queen’s Quay Terminal
This large complex houses more than
100 shops and restaurants. On the
third floor is a theater designed for
dance performances. Built in 1927
when lake and railroad trade flourished,
this eight-story concrete warehouse
has been attractively renovated. The
light, airy two-story marketplace has
garden courts, skylights, and waterfalls. Condos occupy the floors above.
Although you’ll find few bargains
here, there are some charming stores
on the street level. They include Oh
Yes Toronto, which specializes in souvenirs and Toronto-centric clothing.
HARBOURFRONT
On the upper level, options include
the classic Tilley Endurables, founded
by Torontonian Alex Tilley (who
invented the world’s most adaptable
hat). First Hand Canadian Crafts represents more than 200 contemporary
folk artists who make both decorative
and functional pieces, and Table of
Contents sells all kinds of kitchen gear.
TAKE A BREAK
If you want to sit out and
watch the lakefront traffic—
boat and human—go for a
light meal or a drink at Spinnakers
(& 416/203-0559), or the Boathouse
Cafe (& 416/203-6300), on the ground
floor of Queens Quay. Pearl Harbourfront Chinese Cuisine (& 416/2031233) offers more formal dining. The
Queens Quay complex also has a variety
of cafes, and food vendors just outside.
159
operate model boats in summer; in
winter it turns into an ice-skating
rink.
From York Quay, cross the Amsterdam Bridge
above Marina 4, checking out the wealth
that’s bobbing down below. You’ll arrive on:
4 John Quay
The first building you’ll come to contains four restaurants, beyond which
are the towers of the:
5 Radisson Plaza Hotel
Admiral and Admiralty Point
Condominiums
The complex sits across Queens Quay
West from the HarbourPoint Condominiums. The ground level of the
Admiralty Point Condos houses a few
interesting stores. The Nautical Mind
sells marine books, photographs, navigational charts, and boating videos;
the Dock Shoppe overflows with all
kinds of sailing gear and fashions.
From Queen’s Quay Terminal, walk along the
water to the:
2 Power Plant Contemporary
Art Gallery
This was indeed a power plant when it
was built in 1927. Identifiable by its
towering smokestack, the space has
been converted to display modern art.
The same building houses the Du
Maurier Theatre Centre, which presents works in French.
Behind this building, adjacent to
Queens Quay West, is the Tent in the
Park, where events take place during
the summer season.
Walk next door to the:
3 York Quay Centre
A complex converted from a 1940
trucking warehouse, it contains a
number of interesting restaurants and
galleries. Spend some time in the Craft
Studio watching the glassblowers, potters, jewelry makers, and other artisans at work, and browse in the store
that sells their work.
On the waterfront side in front of
York Quay, there’s a pond where kids
TAKE A BREAK
Pop into the Radisson Plaza
Hotel Admiral (& 416/2033333), 249 Queens Quay W.
It has a couple of dining options (the
Commodore’s Dining Room and the
Gallery Café, which serves light fare),
plus a pleasant terrace if it’s a sunny
day.
Continue west along Queens Quay West past:
6 Maple Leaf Quay
You can stop at the Nautical Centre to
sign up for sailing classes first. Continue
west and you’ll see the Maple Leaf Quay
Apartments on your right and the Harbour Terrace Condominiums farther
along on your left, on the waterfront.
Next door to the westernmost tower of the
Maple Leaf Quay Apartments is the:
7 Toronto Music Garden
A terrific destination for whiling away
an afternoon, the Music Garden was
designed by world-renowned cellist Yo
Yo Ma and landscape architect Julie
Moir Messervy to invoke Bach’s First
Walking Tour 2: Harbourfront
TORONTO
427
Front St. West
401
Spadina Ave.
area of detail
Peter St. South
TTC Subway
2
Lake Ontario
Lakeshore Bl
vd. West
N
Gardiner Expressway
3
4
5
Queen’s Quay Terminal
Power Plant Contemporary
Art Gallery
York Quay Centre
John Quay
Admiral and Admiralty
Point Condominiums
Maple Leaf Quay
Toronto Music Garden
2
Blvd. West
King’s Landing
Condominiums
7
FINISH HERE
Harbour
Terrace
Condominiums
Queens Q
uay West
Spadina
Quay
st St.
ur
Bath
6
7
Portland St.
1
2
Lakeshore
Lake Ontario
Take a break
Suite for Unaccompanied Cello. The
venue is open 7 days a week and
admission is free. Even better, there
are special musical performances
WALKING TOUR 3
scheduled here throughout the summer, on both weekdays and weekends.
To return to downtown, board the
LRT and head back to Union Station.
THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT
Start:
The CN Tower, near the corner of John and Front streets.
Finish:
A Queen Street West watering hole.
Time:
2 to 4 hours.
Best Time:
Weekdays during business hours.
Worst Times:
Weekends, when the stock market is closed and the Financial District is dead.
This is the Wall Street of Toronto, the financial engine that has made Ontario
the nation’s strongest and wealthiest economy. For more information about
some of the major sights mentioned below, see chapter 6.
Start by going up the:
1 CN Tower
This is the tallest freestanding structure
in the world. Although it has become a
symbol of the city, the CN Tower drew
a great deal of criticism when it was
built in 1975. It has since been recognized as an important symbol of a city
0
1/8 mile
N
0
We
st
Lakeshore
2
Rees St.
Maple Leaf Quay
Apartments
Admiralty Point
Condominiums
Nautical
Centre
Blvd. West
York St.
Gardiner Expressway
Simcoe St.
Fro
t.
nt S
100 meters
5
Radisson
Plaza
Hotel
Admiral
Queens Quay West
Craft
Studio
Radisson
Plaza
3
6
af Quay
START HERE
Du Maurier
Theatre Centre
4
Maple Le
1
2
John Qu
ay
York Qua
y
Lake Ontario
trying to forge a new identity. Robert
Fulford writes about it in Accidental
City: “In the 1970s [Toronto] was
struggling to shake off the dowdy selfimage that was part of its heritage as a
colonial city . . . Torontonians were
starting to consider, with shy pleasure,
the novel idea that their city might be
attractive, even enviable . . . At that
happy moment, the tower reinforced
local exuberance and asserted the city’s
claim to even more attention.” However you view it, the most enjoyable
thing is the view from it.
Once you’re back down at the base,
exit at the corner of John and Front
streets. From here, look to the right
along Front Street to see the glistening
golden Royal Bank towers (part of the
Royal Bank Centre). The CBC Centre
stretches along the north side of Front
Street for a whole long block. Inside,
you can peek at the lobby radio studios and take a nostalgic radio-TV trip
in the free museum.
Walk north on John Street (with
the CN Tower behind you), cross
Wellington Street, and continue up
to King Street. Turn right. On the
northeast corner, sports fans will want
to stop in at Legends of the Game,
322 King St. W. (& 416/971-8848).
Doors with baseball-shaped handles
open onto an emporium that features
the Wall of Fame and every conceivable sports collectible.
Continue walking along the north side of
King Street 1 block to:
2 The Princess of Wales Theatre
Princess Diana opened it in 1993.
Constructed for a production of Miss
Saigon, the theater was the brainchild
of impresario Ed Mirvish and his son,
David. Try to pop inside for a peek at
162
the 929 sq. m (10,000 sq. ft.) of
murals created by Frank Stella. There’s
one on the exterior back of the building that’s worth walking around to see.
Exit the theater and continue along
King Street past a cluster of restaurants
owned by Ed Mirvish. (Drop in to one
to check out the larger-than-life decor
Ed has purchased at antiques closeouts.)
You’ll also pass a wall of newspaper
clippings about this gutsy Torontonian. Booster and benefactor of the city,
he started out in bleak circumstances
as owner of a bankrupt store during
the Depression. He paid off the debt
and launched Honest Ed’s (p. 180), a
discount store at Bloor and Bathurst
that brought him fame and fortune.
He saved the Royal Alex (see below)
from demolition, and he and his son
have become theater impresarios in
Toronto and in London, where Ed
outbid Andrew Lloyd Webber in 1982
for the Old Vic.
Cross Duncan Street. Next you’ll come to:
3 The Royal Alexandra
John M. Lyle built this beloved theater
in 1906 and 1907 at a cost of
C$750,000 (US$525,000). In 1963, it
was scheduled for demolition, but Ed
Mirvish bought it for C$200,000
(US$140,000) and refurbished it.
Named after Queen Alexandra, wife of
Edward VII, the magnificent beauxarts structure is Edwardian down to
the last detail. It abounds with gilt and
velvet, and green marble lines the
entrance foyer.
Across the street from these two theaters stands the new Metro Hall,
55 John St., designed by Brisbin Brook
Beynon. This building is pretty much a
white elephant these days—it was constructed when Toronto had six separate
municipal governments and a Metro
Council for joint projects and concerns.
If you go in, check out the art installations. Free tours (& 416/392-8000) of
the first three floors are available, but
they’re not very interesting.
Also on the south side of the street, at the
corner of King and Simcoe streets, is:
4 Roy Thomson Hall
The hall bears the name of newspaper
magnate Lord Thomson of Fleet (a
Canadian press baron who wound up
taking a seat in the British House of
Lords). Built between 1972 and 1982
and designed by Arthur Erickson, the
building’s exterior looks very space
age. Inside, the mirrored effects are
dramatic.
Continue walking east on King
Street. You’ll pass through the heart of
the Financial District, surrounded by
many towers owned and operated by
banks and brokerage, trust, and insurance companies.
On the northeast corner of King and Simcoe
rises the first of the towers that make up
the Sun Life Centre; on the southeast corner
stands:
5 St. Andrew’s Presbyterian
Church
The church (1874–75) is a quietly
inviting retreat from the city’s pace and
noise. It was designed by the city’s premier architect of the time, W. G.
Storm, in an inspired picturesque Scottish Romanesque style. Sun Life paid
C$4.3 million (US$3 million) for the
church’s air rights. Continue along
King Street to University Avenue.
Opposite, on the northeast corner, is the:
6 Sun Life Centre’s second
tower
A Sorel Etrog sculpture marks this
tower. Farther along the block you’ll
find another sculpture, Parent I, by
British sculptor Barbara Hepworth. It’s
in a courtyard setting, complete with a
splashing fountain, at the northwest
corner of York and King streets.
On the northeast corner stands:
7 2 First Canadian Place
The north corner of the structure is
the Toronto Exchange Tower, at the
corner of Adelaide and York streets.
The Sculptor’s Society Gallery, which
always has an interesting free show, is
Spadina Ave.
Spadina Ave.
St.
Ave.
7
8
St.
8
Union Station
0
0
14
10
12
0.25 km
KING
QUEEN
1/4 mi
St.
11
Scotia
Plaza
Wellington
9
13
Adelaide St.
UNION
Royal
Bank
Plaza
King
The Esplanade West
START HERE
Simcoe St.
CN Tower
1
6
Richmond St.
St.
15
Temperance St.
Queen
Nathan
Phillips
Square
16
N
Yonge St.
Take a Break
SkyDome
Convention Centre
5
Emily St.
TTC Subway
John
Post Office
John St.
Church
West
4
ST. ANDREW
York
Front St. West
St.
3
St.
17
St.
Wellington
2
Pearl St.
St.
Clarence
Square
Beverley St.
Mercer St.
Duncan
King St. West
McCaul St.
Nelson
St. Patrick St.
Adelaide St. West
Richmond St. West
OSGOODE
18
19
University
St.
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
N
York
CN Tower
Princess of Wales Theatre
Royal Alexandra
Roy Thomson Hall
St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church
Sun Life Centre
2 First Canadian Place/Toronto
Exchange Tower
First Canadian Place, Standard
Life and Royal Trust Buildings
Toronto Dominion Centre
Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce
Scotia Tower
National Club Building
Canada Permanent Trust Building
The Bay
Old City Hall
New City Hall
Osgoode Hall
Campbell House
Canada Life Assurance Building
Queen St. West
Bulwer St.
FINISH HERE
Sheppard
St.
Bay
8
2
TTC Subway
area of detail
Peter St.
Lake Ontario
427
TORONTO
401
James St.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Walking Tour 3: The Financial District
St.
163
164
in 2 First Canadian Place. Also on the
ground floor in the building, stop in
to see the fabulous glass sculptures and
other glass pieces in the Sandra Ainsley gallery (& 416/362-4480).
Continue along King Street past:
8 First Canadian Place
It sits on the north side, and the Standard Life and Royal Trust buildings
(part of the Toronto Dominion Centre) are on the south. At the end of
this block, you’ll reach Bay Street. The
Standard Life building is the work of
New York architect Edward Durell
Stone with Bregman & Hamann; the
marble facing contrasts with the TD
Centre, which is black. Again, there
are views of the magnificent towers of
the Royal Bank Centre from here.
The intersection of Bay and King
streets was once considered the geographical center of Toronto’s financial
power. During the mining booms in
the 1920s and 1950s, Bay Street was
lined with offices that were filled with
commission salesmen peddling stocks
to the equivalent of the little old lady
from Dubuque. This is the hub that
gave Torontonians their reputation as
a voracious band of money-grubbing
folks. Today it’s called Mint Corner
because a major bank occupies each
corner.
TAKE A BREAK
Your best bet for a leisurely
lunch in this neighborhood is a
block south and a block east at
Jump Café and Bar, 1 Wellington St. W.
(& 416/363-3400; p. 89). For a quick
snack, seek out one of the casual spots in
the concourse of First Canadian Place.
If it’s near lunchtime and your stomach is
rumbling, this isn’t a bad place to:
Our next stop, at King and Bay streets, is the:
9 Toronto Dominion Centre
Built between 1963 and 1969, the
center was designed by Mies van der
Rohe in his sleek trademark style. The
black steel and dark-bronze-tinted
glass tower rises from a gray granite
base. Go through the Royal Trust and
Toronto Dominion Towers, stopping
to browse in the Toronto Dominion
Gallery of Inuit Art, 79 Wellington
St. W. (& 416/982-8473), on the
ground floor and mezzanine of the
Toronto Dominion Tower. Close to
100 marvelous soapstone sculptures
are on display. Exit the TD Centre on
Wellington Street and walk right;
you’ll come to a small staircase that
leads to the courtyard behind the
Toronto Dominion Bank Tower. Here
you’ll find a patch of grass that holds
half a dozen lazing bronze cows. Artist
Joe Fafard’s Pasture reminds the
bankers and stockbrokers that
Toronto’s wealth derived from other
stock, too.
Walk through the Centre to the King Street
exit. Exit onto King Street and turn right to
continue east. Cross Bay Street. On the
south side of King Street, you’ll come to the
entrance to Commerce Court. Architecture
buffs will also want to go into the:
0 Canadian Imperial Bank
of Commerce
Visit this building (1929–31) if only to
see the massive banking hall—44m
(145 ft.) long, 26m (85 ft.) wide, and
20m (65 ft.) high—with its coffered
ceiling, gilt moldings, and sculpted
friezes. Squirrels, roosters, bees, bears,
and figures representing industry,
commerce, and Mercury decorate the
main entrance. For years, this 34-story
building dominated the Toronto skyline. New Yorkers York and Sawyer,
with Darling and Pearson, designed it.
Note the carved heads on the top of
the building depicting courage, observation, foresight, and enterprise. In the
early 1970s, I. M. Pei was asked to
design a new complex while preserving
the old building. He set the new mercury-laminated stainless-steel bank
tower back from King Street, creating
Commerce Court.
THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT
Opposite, on the north side of King Street,
note the:
! Scotia Tower
It’s a red-granite building, designed by
Webb Zerafa Menkes Housden
between 1985 and 1988.
Walk back to Bay Street and turn right.
You’re now going north. At no. 303, on the
east side, is the:
@ National Club Building
In 1874, the nationalist Canada First
Movement, which had started in
Ottawa in 1868, became centered in
Toronto. It established a weekly, The
Nation, entered politics (as the Canadian National Association), and
founded the National Club, which
moved here in 1907. Today, it’s a prestigious private club.
Across the street on the west side, at the corner of Bay and Adelaide streets, stands the:
# Canada Permanent Trust
Building (1928)
Enter this structure, at 7 King St. E.,
to view the beautifully worked Art
Deco brass and bronze, particularly
the elevator doors, which are chased
and engraved with foliage and flowers.
Cross Adelaide Street. As you walk up Bay
Street, the magnificent Old City Hall is
clearly in view. First, on the east side of Bay
Street between Richmond and Queen
streets, look at—or stop into:
$ The Bay
This is one of Canada’s venerable
retailers. The Bay, along with its archrival, Eaton’s, has influenced the
development of the downtown areas
of most major Canadian cities.
Across Queen Street looms:
% Old City Hall
Its reflection appears dramatically in the
Cadillac Fairview Office Tower at the
corner of James and Queen streets. This
solid, impressive building, designed by
Edward James Lennox, was built out of
Credit River Valley sandstone. The
magnificent Romanesque Revival style
shows the obvious influence of H. H.
Richardson. Begun in 1885, it opened
165
in 1899, and for years its clock tower
was a skyline landmark. Today, the
building houses the provincial criminal
courts. Go in to see the impressive staircase, columns with decorative capitals,
and mosaic floor. The stained-glass
window (1898) by Robert McCausland
depicts the union of Commerce and
Industry watched over by Britannia.
Note the carved heads on the exterior
entrance pillars—supposedly portraits
of political figures and citizens of the
period, including the architect.
Exit along Queen Street and turn right.
Pause at the intersection of Queen and Bay
streets. Bay, Toronto’s equivalent of Wall
Street, curves at this intersection, offering a
good view north and south. Cross Bay Street
and you’ll find yourself in Nathan Phillips
Square. Looming above you’ll see the:
^ New City Hall
The city’s fourth, it was built between
1958 and 1965 in modern sculptural
style. It’s the symbol of Toronto’s postwar dynamism, although not everyone
felt that way when it was built.
According to Pierre Berton, Frank
Lloyd Wright said of it, “You’ve got a
headmarker for a grave and future
generations will look at it and say:
‘This marks the spot where Toronto
fell.’” The truth is quite the opposite—this breathtaking building was
the first architectural marker of an
evolving metropolis. Finnish architect
Viljo Revell won a design competition
that drew entries by 510 architects
from 42 countries, including I. M.
Pei. The building has a great square in
front with a fountain and pool; people
flock here in summer to relax, and in
winter to skate. The square’s namesake, Nathan Phillips, was Toronto’s
first Jewish mayor.
City Hall also has some art worth
viewing. Look just inside the entrance
for Metropolis, which local artist David
Partridge fashioned from more than
100,000 common nails. You’ll need to
stand well back to enjoy the effect.
Henry Moore’s sculpture The Archer
166
stands in front of the building—thanks
to Mayor Phil Givens, who raised the
money to buy it through public subscription after city authorities refused.
The gesture encouraged Moore to
bestow a major collection of his works
on the Art Gallery of Ontario
(p. 124). Two curved concrete towers,
which house the bureaucracy, flank the
Council Chamber. From the air, the
whole complex supposedly looks like
an eye peering up at the heavens.
TAKE A BREAK
For some light refreshment,
stop in at one of several dining
spots in the Sheraton Centre,
123 Queen St. W. They include the pub
Good Queen Bess (& 416/361-1000).
From City Hall, walk west along Queen
Street. On your right, behind an ornate
wrought-iron fence that once kept out the
cows, you’ll see:
& Osgoode Hall
Since the 1830s, this has been the
headquarters of the Law Society of
Upper Canada, a professional association. Named after the first chief justice
of Upper Canada, the building was
constructed in stages. It started with
the East Wing (1831–32), then the
West Wing (1844–45), and the center
block (1856–60). The last, designed by
WALKING TOUR 4
W. G. Storm with a Palladian portico,
is the most impressive. Inside is the
Great Library—34m (112 ft.) long,
12m (40 ft.) wide, and 12m (40 ft.)
high—with stucco decoration and a
domed ceiling. The Ontario Supreme
Court is across Queen Street.
Walk west 1 block to University Avenue. On
the northwest corner, you can visit:
* Campbell House
This elegant Georgian residence was
home to Sir William Campbell, a Scot
who moved to York in 1811 and rose
to become chief justice of Upper
Canada. A handsome piece of Georgian architecture, it was moved to this
location from a few miles farther east.
Stretching northward behind Campbell
House, on the northwest side of University
Avenue, is the:
( Canada Life Assurance Building
Atop the tower a neon sign provides
weather reports—white flashes for
snow, red flashes for rain, green beacon for clement weather, red beacon
for cloudy weather. If the flashes move
upward, the temperature is headed
that way, and vice versa.
At University Avenue and Queen
Street, you can end the tour by boarding the subway at Osgoode to your
next destination. Or continue walking
west along Queen Street to explore its
many shops and cafes.
S T. L A W R E N C E & D O W N T O W N E A S T
Start:
Union Station.
Finish:
King subway station.
Time:
2 to 3 hours.
Best Time:
Saturday, when the St. Lawrence Market is in full swing.
Worst Time:
Sunday, when it’s closed.
At one time, this area was at the center of city life. Today it’s a little off-center,
and yet it has some historic and modern architectural treasures, and a wealth of
history in and around the St. Lawrence Market.
Emily St.
Union Station
1
5
The Espla
nade
Front St. West
4
7
2
Scott St.
de
n
Wilto
100 meters
9
10
1/8 mile
St.
Gardiner Expwy.
plana
East
St.
Market St.
0
0
8
s
The E
7
t St.
Fron
6
Wellington St.
Colbourne
King St. East
11
Farquar’s
Ln.
Esplanade
West
START HERE
Orillia
St.
UNION
3
Wellington St. West
Sheppard St.
Stanton St.
Jordan
St.
Melinda
St.
KING
Court St.
Leader Ln.
2
Piper St.
Bay St.
King St.
FINISH
HERE
N
Lower Jarvis St.
Take a Break
ST. ANDREW
Scotia
Plaza
Adelaide St. East
Lombard St.
Richmond St. East
Jarvis St.
TTC Subway
York St.
Pearl St.
Ave.
Church St.
8
9
10
11
N
Yonge St.
Union Station
Fairmont Royal York
Royal Bank Plaza
BCE Place
Bank of Montreal
Flatiron or Gooderham Building
Hummingbird Centre,
St. Lawrence Centre
Beardmore Building
St. Lawrence Market
St. Lawrence Hall
St. James Cathedral
Adelaide St. West
Temperance St.
Richmond St. West
Victoria St.
Lake Ontario
TTC Subway
area of detail
University
2
TORONTO
427
401
Toronto St.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Walking Tour 4: St. Lawrence & Downtown East
Yonge St.
Bay St.
York St.
167
168
Begin at:
1 Union Station
Check out the interior of this classical
revival beauty, which opened in 1927
as a temple to and for the railroad. The
shimmering ceiling, faced with vitrified Guastavino tile, soars 27m (88 ft.)
above the 79m-long (260-ft.) hall.
Across the street, at York and Front streets,
stands the:
2 Fairmont Royal York
The venerable railroad hotel is a longtime gathering place for Torontonians.
It’s the home of the famous Imperial
Room cabaret and nightclub, which
used to be one of Eartha Kitt’s favorite
venues. The hotel was once the tallest
building in Toronto and the largest
hotel in the British Commonwealth.
Check out the lobby, with its coffered
ceiling and opulent furnishings.
Designed by artist-architect Santiago
Calatrava with Bregman & Hamann,
it links the old Midland Bank building to the twin towers.
TAKE A BREAK
For an unusual dining experience, stop in at BCE Place’s
Movenpick Marché (& 416/
366-8986), which turns diners into
hunter-gatherers. Rather than waiting for
table service, you forage for salads, pastas, and meat dishes at various counters.
If you can’t bear the thought of chasing
down your grub, head across the courtyard to Acqua (& 416/368-7171) for
Italianate dishes. The downstairs food
court offers a variety of fast food and
casual dining choices. If you prefer a deli
sandwich, head for Shopsy’s, 33 Yonge
St. (& 416/365-3333; p. 100).
As you leave the hotel, turn left and walk
east on Front Street. At the corner of Bay
and Front streets, look up at the stunning:
Back out on Front Street, turn left and continue to the northwest corner of Yonge and
Front, stopping to admire the:
3 Royal Bank Plaza
5 Bank of Montreal
The two triangular gold-sheathed
towers rise 41 floors and 26 floors. A
40m-high (130-ft.) atrium joins them,
and 150 pounds of gold enhances the
mirrored glass. Webb Zerafa Menkes
Housden designed the project, which
was built between 1973 and 1977.
Cross Bay Street and continue east
on Front Street. On the south side of
the street is the impressive sweep of
One Front Street, the main post
office building (okay, not an excitingsounding sight, but an attractive one).
On the north side of the street is the city’s
latest financial palace and most impressive
architectural triumph, Bell Canada Enterprises’:
4 BCE Place
Go inside to view the soaring galleria.
Skidmore, Owings, and Merrill, with
Bregman & Hamann, designed it in
1993. The twin office towers connect
through a huge glass-covered galleria
five stories high, spanning the block
between Bay and Yonge streets.
The suitably ornate building (1885–
86) held the most powerful Canadian
bank of the 19th century, a force
behind the colonial and federal governments. Inside, the banking hall
rises to a beamed coffered ceiling with
domed skylights of stained glass. It
now houses the Stanley Cup and other
hockey trophies, plus the Hockey
Hall of Fame (p. 140), another example of the city’s genius for architectural
adaptation. The exterior, embellished
with carvings, porthole windows, and
a balustrade, is a sight.
From here, you can look ahead along Front
Street and see the weird mural by Derek M.
Besant that adorns the famous and highly
photogenic:
6 Flatiron or Gooderham
Building (1892)
It was built as the headquarters of
George Gooderham, who had expanded his distilling business into railroads, insurance, and philanthropy. At
one time his liquor business was the
S T. L A W R E N C E & D O W N T O W N E A S T
biggest in the British Empire, and he
was also president of the Bank of
Toronto. The five-story building occupies a triangular site, and the western
tip (and the windows) is beautifully
curved and topped with a semicircular
tower. The design is by David Roberts.
At the southwest corner of Yonge and Front
streets, you can stop in at:
7 The Hummingbird Centre
It sits across Scott Street from the St.
Lawrence Centre. The former is
home to the National Ballet of
Canada and, at the moment, to the
Canadian Opera Company (plans for
a new opera house are tentative).
Continue east along Front Street to the:
8 Beardmore Building
It’s at 35–39 Front St. E. This and the
many other cast-iron buildings that
line the street were the heart of the late19th-century warehouse district, close
to the lakefront and railheads. Now
they hold stores like Frida Crafts,
which sells imports from Guatemala,
India, and Bangladesh, as well as jewelry, bags, candles, and other knickknacks; and Mountain Equipment
Co-op, stocked with durable outdoor
adventure goods. At no. 41–43, note
the Perkins Building, and at no.
45–49, look for the building with a
totally cast-iron facade. The Nicholas
Hoare bookstore, one of the coziest in
the city, is at no. 45.
Continue browsing as you pass
Church Street. Wonderful & Whites,
83 Front St., features delicate pieces—
Victorian linens, lace, pillows, china,
and glass. Some of the pieces even
have beautiful, colorful patterns. Next
door, Ra offers an array of Indian and
other decorative accents—bedspreads
and pillows, along with apparel and
jewelry.
Now cross Market Street to the:
9 St. Lawrence Market
The old market building on the right.
holds this great market hall, which was
constructed around the city’s second
169
city hall (1844–45). The elegant pedimented facade that you see as you
stand in the center of the hall was
originally the center block of the city
hall. Today, the market abounds with
vendors selling fresh eggs, Mennonite
sausage, seafood, meats, cheeses, and
baked goods. From Thursday to Saturday, in the north building across the
street, a farmers’ market starts at 5am.
TAKE A BREAK
The most fun place to stop is
at one of the stands offering
fresh produce in the market
itself. Other choices include Le Papillon,
16 Church St. (& 416/363-0838; p. 99),
which features a raft of savory dessert
crepes, and HotHouse Cafe, 35 Church
St. (& 416/366-7800).
Exit the market where you came in. Cross
Wellington Street and cut through Market
Lane Park and the shops at Market Square,
past the north market building. Turn right
onto King Street to:
0 St. Lawrence Hall
This was the focal point of the community in the mid-19th century. This
hall was the site of grand city occasions,
political rallies, balls, and entertainment. Frederick Douglass delivered
an antislavery lecture; Jenny Lind
and Adelina Patti sang in 1851 and
1860, respectively; General Tom
Thumb appeared in 1862; and George
Brown campaigned for Confederation.
William Thomas designed the elegant
Palladian-style building, which boasts a
domed cupola.
Cross King Street and enter the
19th-century garden. It has a cast-iron
drinking fountain for people, horses,
and dogs, and flowerbeds filled with
seasonal blooms.
If you like, rest on a bench while you admire
the handsome proportions of St. Lawrence
Hall and listen to the chimes of:
! St. James Cathedral
Adjacent to the garden on the north
side of King Street, this is one of my
170
favorite places in Toronto. The beautiful building and its surrounding park
make a serene setting to rest and
gather one’s thoughts—at least for
now. A condo developer is hoping to
build on the grounds of the park that
surrounds St. James. Now there goes
the neighborhood. Enjoy this beautiful oasis while you still can.
York’s first church was built here
from 1803 to 1807. Originally a frame
building, it was enlarged in 1818 and
1819, and replaced in 1831. The
second church burned in 1839. The
first cathedral replaced it, only to be
destroyed in the great fire of 1849. The
present building was begun in 1850 and
finished in 1874. It boasts the tallest
steeple in Canada. Inside, at the northern end of the east aisle, there’s a Tiffany
window in memory of William Jarvis,
one of Toronto’s founding fathers.
St. James’ first incumbent was the
Rev. George O’Kill Stuart; his successor, John Strachan (pronounced
Strawn), later became the first bishop
of Toronto. Strachan wielded tremendous temporal as well as spiritual
power. For 50 years, until his death in
1867, he was an indomitable spirit. He
threatened the Americans with the
vengeance of the British Navy after
they occupied York (Toronto), defied
the British prelates by keeping King’s
College open over their objections that
the charter was too liberal, and dismissed Thomas Jefferson as “a mischief
maker.” He revered British institutions
and abhorred anything Yankee.
From here, you can view one of
the early retail buildings that was built
when King Street was the main
commercial street. Nos. 129–35 were
originally an Army and Navy Store;
cast iron, plate glass, and arched
windows allowed the shopper to see
what was available in the store. Also
note nos. 111 and 125. The Toronto
Sculpture Garden, 115 King St.
(& 416/485-9658), is a quiet corner
for contemplation.
WINDING DOWN
From St. James, the venerable
Le Royal Meridien King
Edward, 37 King St. E.
(& 416/863-9700), is only a block
away. You can stop for afternoon tea in
the lobby lounge, or light fare or lunch in
the Café Victoria. Both La Maquette,
111 King St. E. (& 416/366-8191), and
Biagio, 157 King St. E. (& 416/3664040), have appealing courtyards.
From St. James, go south on
Church Street for 1 block and turn
right into Colbourne Street. From
Colbourne, turn left down Leader
Lane to Wellington, where you can
enjoy a fine view of the mural on the
Flatiron Building and of the rhythmic
flow of mansard rooflines along the
south side of Front Street.
Turn right and proceed to Yonge
Street, then turn right and walk to
King Street to catch the subway to
your next destination.
8
Shopping
S
hopping in Toronto can be a kaleidoscopic experience. The haute-est
international retailers—like Prada,
Chanel, and Gucci—compete for
attention with discount emporiums
like Honest Ed’s. Megastores dominate the landscape, yet boutiques are
blossoming. And while foreign chains
stake their claim in shopping arcades
and malls, they stand shoulder to
shoulder with homegrown talent.
The result of this chaos is a cornucopia of shops that fit a wide range of
budgets and tastes. The bad news:
While window-shopping is a laudable
pastime, don’t fool yourself that it will
stop there. Just don’t break the bank.
1 The Shopping Scene
While you may want to check out the impressive array of international retailers,
it would be a mistake to overlook the locals. If your passion is fashion, do check
out Canadian labels such as Lida Baday, Ross Mayer, Misura by Joeffer Caoc,
Linda Lundstrom, Crystal Siemens, Frette by Michelle Secours, Brian Bailey,
Mimi Bizjak, Mercy, Wolves, and Comrags.
Toronto also has a bustling arts and crafts community, with many galleries,
custom jewelers, and artisans. Some of the best buys are on native and Inuit art.
Artwork can be imported into the United States duty-free.
Stores usually open at around 10am from Monday to Saturday. Closing hours
change depending on the day. From Monday to Wednesday, most stores close at
6pm; on Thursday and Friday, hours run to 8pm or 9pm; on Saturday, closing
is quite early, usually around 6pm. Most stores are open on Sunday, though the
hours may be restricted—11am or noon to 5pm is not unusual.
Almost every establishment accepts MasterCard and Visa, and a growing number take American Express. Many retailers accept U.S. cash, and the exchange
rate tends to be a favorable one, especially downtown in the Eaton Centre area.
2 Great Shopping Areas
DOWNTOWN
CHINATOWN It’s crowded and noisy, but don’t let that put you off. Sure,
there’s the usual touristy junk, like cheapo plastic toys and jewelry, but the real
Chinatown has a lot more to offer, including fine rosewood furniture, exquisite
ceramics, and homeopathic herbs. Just don’t try driving here: This is traffic purgatory, and best navigated on foot.
THE EATON CENTRE Okay, you’re short on time, but you still want to fit
in all your shopping. Where else can you go but the Eaton Centre? With more
than 300 shops, including Browns, Danier, Birks, Nine West, La Vie en Rose,
Femme de Carriere, Eddie Bauer, Banana Republic, Mendocino, Laura Secord,
and Indigo, you’ll be sure to find something.
172
CHAPTER 8 . SHOPPING
Tips Good to Know: Taxes & Rebates
The provincial sales tax (PST) is 8%, and the national goods-and-services tax
(GST) is 7%. Visitors can apply for a rebate of both when they leave the
country. For details, see “Taxes” under “Fast Facts: Toronto,” in chapter 3.
QUEEN STREET WEST Queen Street West between University Avenue and
Bathurst Street is rich with boutiques for both fashion and housewares, though
there are a lot of familiar names thrown in the mix. Locals complain that this
neighborhood isn’t what it was before the Gap moved in, but it’s still a great
stomping ground for fashionistas in need of a fix.
THE UNDERGROUND CITY Subterranean Toronto is a hive of shopping
activity. While you won’t find too many shops down here that don’t have an
aboveground location, the Underground City is a popular place in winter, and
with those whose schedules don’t allow them out of the Financial District.
WEST QUEEN WEST Playing down its grittier roots, this hot new neighborhood has got the reputation for cutting-edge fashion that Queen Street West
used to enjoy. Starting at Bathurst Avenue and running west a few blocks past
Ossington Avenue, this is where you’ll find an incredible array of fashion talent,
art galleries, and great new restaurants.
MIDTOWN
BLOOR STREET WEST This strip of real estate, bordered by Yonge Street
to the east and Avenue Road to the west, is where most of the top international
names in fashion set up shop. If you’re in the mood to see what Karl Lagerfeld
is designing or to pick up a glittering bauble from Cartier or Tiffany, this is your
hunting ground.
YORKVILLE A far cry from its days as a hippie hangout and commune in the
1960s, this is now one of Toronto’s best known—and most expensive—shopping
neighborhoods. Little alleyways crisscross the streets, giving Yorkville a romantic,
old-fashioned appeal. The shops here tend to be small boutiques that specialize,
say, in beaded handbags or fine handmade papers. Bistros and cafes abound, giving rise to Yorkville’s other pastime: people-watching.
3 Shopping A to Z
ANTIQUES
Toronto’s antiques scene has exploded. Throw a stone in any direction and
you’re bound to hit an Edwardian console, or at least a classic Eames chair. For
fine antiques, head north from Bloor Street along Avenue Road until you reach
Davenport Avenue, or walk north on Yonge Street from the Rosedale subway
station to St. Clair Avenue. Another top area is Mount Pleasant Road from St.
Clair Avenue to Eglinton Avenue. For less pricey finds, head west on Queen
Street to the Bathurst Street area. Merchandise at the Harbourfront Antique
Market varies widely in quality and price.
At Home Finds An inviting, airy room filled with an ever-changing collection
of furniture and accessories, including French chairs (often in pairs), fine tables,
vintage lamps, and decorative mirrors. 1156 Yonge St. & 416/924-6590. Subway: Summerhill or Rosedale.
2
TTC Subway
Lake Ontario
427
401
N
area of detail
21
22 23
Lettieri
Cafe
Nervosa
25
26
Bloor St. West
Bellair
Cafe
Capezio 23
Club Monaco 1
Cumberland Court 19
David’s 24
En Provence 9
Feheley Fine Arts 7
Hazelton Avenue 10
Hazelton Lanes 6
Hoax Couture 21
Holt Renfrew 32
Holt Renfrew Centre 31
Indigo Books,
Music & More 28
The Irish Shop 22
20
16
St.
Thomas
Charles St.
Old York
Lane
3
17 18 19
13 14 15
Scollard St.
Bellair
1
Bloor St. West
12
11
27
BAY
28
36
33
32
31
Asquith Ave.
39
N
Charles St.
BLOOR-YONGE Bloor St. East
38
100 meters
109 yards
Rhonda Maternity 13
Roots 25
Sable-Castelli 11
Silverbridge 4
The Bay 39
The Colonnade 3
The Cookbook Store 38
The Toy Shop 35
The Travel Shop 18
Thomas Hinds 37
Tiffany & Co. 27
William Ashley 30
Zara 33
37
Yorkville Ave.
Cumberland St.
0
0
Cumberland Terrace
29 30
35
Jeanne Lottie 14
Kinsman Robinson 20
Lovecraft 36
M.A.C. 26
Maison de la Presse
Internationale 5
Manulife Centre 29
Marilyn Brooks 17
Muti 15
Nancy Poole’s Studio 8
Old York Lane 12
Peter Cullman 16
Pusateri’s 34
Renaissance Shops 2
24
34
Bay St.
ROM
2
Cumberland St.
6
10
Yonge St.
TORONTO
Avenue Rd.
Park
Hyatt
Toronto
4
Yorkville Ave.
5
7
8
9
Hazelton
Four
Seasons
Hotel
York
Square
TTC Subway
Midtown Shopping: Bloor/Yorkville
Park Rd.
Balmuto
173
Downtown Shopping: Queen Street West & West Queen West
401
1
2
Queen St.
Wolseley
8 9 10 11 12
4
5
6
15
13 14
7
Richmond St. W.
Adelaide St.
e.
S t.
Gard
i n e r E xp
ara
t Av
Ni a g
STANLEY
PARK
Tecumseth St.
3
Stafford St.
Markham St.
Palmerston Ave.
Euclid St.
Manning St.
Bellwood Ave.
Crawford St.
Gorevale Ave.
Robinson St.
Crocker Ave.
W aln u
The Algonquians Sweet Grass Gallery 11
Aritzia 24
Browns 16
Caban 25
Comrags 12
David Mason 21
Delphic 8
Du Verre Glass 2
Ezra Wear 14
Fashion Crimes 22
Grreat Stuff 3
Japanese Paper Place 1
Kol Kid 10
Lululemon 4
Lush 23
Lynn Robinson 7
Modrobes 20
Mostly Moveables Inc 6
Native Stone Art 27
Peach Berserk 18
Price Roman 26
Quasi Modo 5
Rubies Beauty Bar 13
Stephen Bulger Gallery 9
Stephen Temple Books 17
The Silver Snail 19
Wenches & Rogues 15
Crawford St.
N
Givins St.
Shaw St.
Lake Ontario
Ossington Ave.
2
TRINITY
BELLWOODS
PARK
Claremont St.
Dundas St. W.
area of detail
TTC Subway
Trinity Dr.
427
TTC Subway
Strachan Ave.
TORONTO
Massey St.
ressway
EXHIBITION PLACE
(CANADIAN NATIONAL EXHIBITION)
If you’re feeling pretty and looking for furniture to match, this
attic-like shop is worth a look. The furnishings are luxurious, and some pieces
would not be out of place at Versailles, gilt and all. Some reproductions mix with
the real articles. 1066 Yonge St. & 416/925-0066. Subway: Rosedale.
Bernardi’s Antiques The tiny showroom is jam-packed with furniture, silver
flatware, paintings, bronzes, and carpets. Discontinued Royal Doulton figurines
are a specialty. 699 Mount Pleasant Rd. (south of Eglinton Ave.). & 416/483-6471. www.
Belle Epoque
bernardisantiques.com. Subway: Eglinton, then no. 34 bus to Mount Pleasant, and walk 1 block
south.
Constantine
Every item in this newly renovated shop has been handpicked
by its owner, Rita Tsantis. It’s stocked with imposing wood furniture and delicate
baubles. Be sure to check out the lighting selection—hand-painted Fortuny lamps
are a house specialty—and gilt-trimmed glassware. 1110 Yonge St. & 866/929-1177 or
416/929-1177. Subway: Rosedale.
Decorum Decorative Finds If you’re going on an ocean voyage, can you
resist a C$2,200 (US$1,540) vintage Louis Vuitton trunk? The wares here range
from tables and chaise lounges to oil paintings and old books. All are top priced,
but also top of the line. 1210 Yonge St. & 416/966-6829. Subway: Summerhill.
Horsefeathers! If your taste runs to English and French country house
styles, this emporium’s for you. The 12,000-square-foot space boasts striking
wooden pieces in walnut and mahogany that share the spotlight with tapestries
2
Toronto
Western
Hospital
0
N
0
Barnaby Pl.
Bay St.
W.
KING
York St.
John St.
Peter St.
King St.
Richmond St.
QUEEN
Yonge St.
Nelson St.
Camden St.
Queen St.
OSGOODE
Bay St.
26
Simcoe St.
Duncan St.
21 22 23 24 25
19 20
City
Hall
Sheppard
27
DUNDAS
Chestnut St.
University St.
St. Patrick St.
Beverly St.
McCaul St.
ST. PATRICK
Dundas St. W.
Elizabeth St.
Huron St.
Maud St.
Bathhurst St.
Mitchell St.
Cameron St.
Vanauley St.
17 18
16
0.25 km
D'Arcy St.
Phoebe St.
Spadina Ave.
Denison Ave.
Augusta Ave.
Ryerson Ave.
Bathhurst St.
ALEXANDRA
PARK
St.
1/4 mi
UNION
Portland St.
Front St.
Union
Station
Bremner Blvd.
SkyDome
Bremner Blvd.
2
and Persian carpets. A new, smaller outlet is at 1212 Yonge St. (& 416/9341771). 630 Mount Pleasant Rd. & 416/486-4555. Subway: Eglinton, then no. 34 bus to Mount
Pleasant.
L’Atelier This is about as glamorous as it gets. Napoleon III side tables share
space with chrome bar stools and rococo Italian lamps. Many of the price tags
hit four digits, but there are lovely accoutrements for as little as C$10
(US$6.80). 1224 Yonge St. & 416/966-0200. Subway: Summerhill.
Mark McLaine Collection This shop features styles as diverse as Art Deco
and chinoiserie (a blend of Asian and French design). Many of the furnishings,
carvings, and jewelry are the real McCoy, mixed with some fabulous fakes. Hazelton Lanes, 55 Avenue Rd. & 416/927-7972. Subway: Bay.
Michel Taschereau Antiques In business since 1955, this attic-like shop is
filled with 18th-, 19th-, and early 20th-century pieces from England, France,
and North America. There’s also a collection of decorative glass objects, ceramics, and folk art. 176 Cumberland St. & 416/923-3020. Subway: Bay.
Mostly Movables Inc Turn-of-the-20th-century Canadiana and English
Jazz Age furnishings fill this shop. The pieces are generally in fine form, and the
prices are somewhat lower than those at many Yorkville and Rosedale competitors. 785 Queen St. W. (west of Bathurst St.). & 416/504-4455. Subway: Osgoode, then any
streetcar west to Euclid Ave.
176
Putti
Two generously proportioned rooms hold grand (and grandly priced)
European treasures old and new: dining sets, armoires, cushions, and china. A
recent addition is the floral department, which features both fresh and dried
flowers. Victoria magazine has repeatedly featured this shop. 1104 Yonge St. & 416/
972-7652. Subway: Rosedale.
Whim Antiques The store is aptly named—whimsical it is. In business since
1973, it’s filled with beautiful baubles, silverware, and decorative objets, and
walking through it feels rather like being let loose in great-grandma’s attic. 561
Mount Pleasant Rd. & 416/481-4474. Subway: St. Clair, then Mount Pleasant bus to Belsize Ave.
Zig Zag This shop carries a mélange of styles, but the specialty is early Modernist pieces. The names to watch out for are Eames, Saarinen, Arne Jacobsen,
and Warren Platner. There are some bargains, with excellent pieces in the C$200
to $400 (US$140–$280) range, with a few stellar finds that run as high as
C$3,500 (US$2,450). 1107 Queen St. E. & 416/778-6495. Subway: Queen, then any
streetcar east to Pape Ave.
ART
After viewing the masterworks at the Art Gallery of Ontario, you can
head across the street and buy your own. Founded in 1965, Bau-Xi features contemporary works by artists from across the country. 340 Dundas St. W. & 416/977-
Bau-Xi
0600. Subway: St. Patrick.
Here you’ll find works by native Indians from across
Canada. Most of the collection focuses on the art of the Pacific Northwest,
including totem poles, masks, prints, and jewelry. 156 Front St. W. & 416/971-5190.
Bay of Spirits Gallery
Subway: Union.
This award-winning gallery has the largest collection of
Inuit sculpture in Toronto. At any given time, it shows more than 500 pieces,
with prices ranging from C$16 to $22,000 (US$11–$15,400). 12 Queens Quay W.
Eskimo Art Gallery
(opposite Westin Harbour Castle). & 800/800-2008 or 416/366-3000. Subway: Union, then LRT
to Queens Quay.
Feheley Fine Arts The Feheleys have been personally selecting every piece in
their gallery for over 40 years, making this one of the most individualized collections of early and contemporary Inuit art anywhere. 14 Hazelton Ave. & 416/3231373. Subway: Bay.
Gallery Moos German native Walter Moos has been a fixture on the Toronto
art scene for 30 years. His gallery features top Canadian artists as well as international figures. 622 Richmond St. W. & 416/504-5445. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar
west to Bathurst St., and walk 1 block south.
Most items here are historical and contemporary
photographs from around the world. They include works by Cylla von Tiedemann, Irving Penn, and Herb Ritts. There is also a small collection of modernist
painting and sculpture. 179 John St. & 416/979-1980. Subway: Osgoode.
Kinsman Robinson Galleries The two stories of this Yorkville gallery display 20th-century figurative paintings, sculpture, and drawings. Artists represented include Stanley Cosgrove, Robert Katz, Esther Wertheimer, and Donald
Liardi. Native Canadians Robert Davidson and Norval Morrisseau also exhibit
their work here. There are a few paperworks by Zuniga, Braque, and Chagall,
among others. 108 Cumberland St. & 800/895-4278 or 416/964-2374. Subway: Bay.
Jane Corkin Gallery
S H O P P I N G A TO Z
177
Nancy Poole’s Studio This intimate gallery of painting and sculpture has
been in business for 3 decades. Most of the art is contemporary, much of it Canadian in origin. The gallery launches solo exhibitions every 3 weeks. 16 Hazelton Ave.
& 416/964-9050. Subway: Bay.
Olga Korper Gallery Established in 1973, this gallery houses contemporary
Canadian and international works. Artists represented include Averbuch, John
Brown, Sankawa, and the estate of Louis Comtois. 17 Morrow Ave. (off Dundas St. W.).
& 416/538-8220. Subway: Dundas West.
Ontario College of Art & Design Gallery Finds If you’re interested in the
work of an emerging generation of artists, check out the ongoing exhibitions at
the OCAD. Students display sculpture, photography, painting, and multimedia
installations. 115 McCaul St., 3rd floor & 416/977-6000, ext. 262. Subway: St. Patrick.
Sable-Castelli This highly regarded gallery has been in business for more
than 25 years. It represents contemporary American and Canadian artists,
including heavy hitters like Warhol and Oldenburg. 33 Hazelton Ave. & 416/9610011. Subway: Bay.
Sandra Ainsley
Specializing in glass sculpture, this renowned gallery represents more than 50 artists from across North America, including Dale Chihuly,
Jon Kuhn, Peter Powning, Tom Scoon, Susan Edgerley, and David Bennett. The
one-of-a-kind pieces have big price tags, but there are also some affordable items,
such as paperweights, vases, and jewelry. Toronto Exchange Tower, 130 King St. W. & 416/
362-4480. Subway: St. Andrew.
This gallery displays contemporary Canadian and
international photography; some of the artists represented include Diana Shearwood, Volker Seding, Lida Moser, and Vincenzo Pietropaolo. 700 Queen St. W. (west
Stephen Bulger Gallery
of Bathurst St.). & 416/504-0575. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Palmerston Ave.
Susan Hobbs Gallery This small gallery, in an unprepossessing warehouse far
from the Yorkville crowd, is a major player in Canadian contemporary art. Hobbs
represents 11 of Toronto’s best artists, including Ian Carr-Harris, Shirley Wiitasalo,
Robin Collyer, and Sandra Meigs. 137 Tecumseth St. (at Queen St.) & 416/5043699. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Tecumseth St.
Ydessa Hendeles Art Foundation This is one of the most interesting con-
temporary art collections in the city. Hendeles features installations by international
artists. Works on display include paintings, photography, and multimedia projects.
778 King St. W. & 416/603-2227. Subway: St. Andrew, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
AUDIO-VISUAL & ELECTRONIC GOODS
This 13,000-square-foot store carries all the latest and
greatest audio equipment, from portable units to in-home theater systems. Man-
Bay-Bloor Radio
ulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/967-1122. Subway: Bay.
Canadian Tire This is handyman heaven. The endless aisles overflow with
gadgets for home, yard, office, car, and any place in between. This is where I head
as Father’s Day approaches. 839 Yonge St. & 416/925-9592. www.canadiantire.com.
Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
This bi-level shop deals in analog and digital photography. The first
floor has electronic equipment, darkroom supplies, and a photo-processing lab.
Upstairs, there’s a wide selection of secondhand cameras and gear. 119 Church St.
Henry’s
& 416/868-0872. Subway: Queen.
178
SpyTech James Bond wannabes, welcome. Entering Spy Tech is like having a
free pass to Q’s lab. Looking for a gadget to modify your telephone voice or a
spook-worthy camera? You’ll find it all here, though the price tags do get a little
steep—all the way up to C$100,000 (US$70,000) for a bulletproof car. 2028
Yonge St. & 416/482-8588. Subway: Davisville.
BOOKS
Another Man’s Poison This shop boasts an international collection of books
about graphic arts, interior design, and architecture. Anything you can’t find on
the shelves can be special ordered. There’s also a substantial selection of out-ofprint titles. 29 McCaul St. (just north of Queen St.). & 416/593-6451. Subway: Osgoode.
Atticus Books Bookworms can while away hours in this crowded shop filled
with secondhand scholarly tomes. It stocks many volumes of philosophy, psychology, and psychoanalysis. Antiquarian books and illuminated manuscripts are
at the back of the store. 84 Harbord St. & 416/922-6045. Subway: Spadina, then walk south.
Ballenford Books on Architecture Interior designers, whether amateur or
pro, will love this well-arranged store. The books cover everything from antique
furniture to architectural theory, from urban design to landscaping. The shop
also displays sketches and drawings by local architects. 600 Markham St. (south of
Bloor St. W.) & 416/588-0800. Subway: Bathurst.
When I was a student at the University of Toronto,
I would come into this academic bookstore looking for one text and end up
browsing for ages. It stocks mainly literary fiction, humanities, and social
sciences. Works in translation are carefully selected. 180 Bloor St. W., lower concourse.
Bob Miller Book Room
& 416/922-3557. Subway: St. George.
Book City All the books here are new, and many are discounted by 10% to
30%. There is also a good assortment of international magazines. Book City also
has branches at 1430 Yonge St. (& 416/961-1228), 1950 Queen St. E. (& 416/
698-1444), and 348 Danforth Ave. (& 416/469-9997). 501 Bloor St. W. & 416/9614496. Subway: Bathurst.
While the Chapters bookstores are now owned and operated
by Indigo (see below), they retain their own unique charm. Eminently browseworthy and well-stocked, Chapters boasts comfy chairs, a Starbucks cafe, and a
host of free special events. Celebrity authors Sophia Loren and Sarah, Duchess of
York, had their Toronto engagements here. There’s another Chapters store at 142
John St. (& 416/595-7349). The stores are open late, usually until 10 or 11pm on
weeknights and midnight on weekends. 110 Bloor St. W. & 416/920-9299. Subway: Bay.
The Cookbook Store I call it food porn: lush, gooey close-ups of scallop
ceviche and tiramisu. This store specializes in the kind of book that makes a
gourmet’s heart go pitter-patter. There are also tomes about wine, health, and
restaurants. 850 Yonge St. & 416/920-2665. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
David Mason This charming used-book store is straight out of Dickens. It
stocks many travel books, and a number of first editions of Canadian, American, and British works. The collections of 19th- and 20th-century literature are
vast. 342 Queen St. W. & 416/598-1015. Subway: Osgoode.
Glad Day Bookshop This was the first gay-oriented bookstore in Canada,
and it remains one of the best. The shelves hold a sizable collection of gay and
lesbian fiction, biography, and history books, and the offerings have expanded
Chapters
179
to include magazines, CDs, videos, calendars, posters, and cards. 598A Yonge St.,
2nd floor. & 877/783-3725 or 416/961-4161. Subway: Wellesley.
This Canadian-owned chain boasts an
excellent selection of books, magazines, and videotapes. It has tables and chairs
to encourage browsing, a cafe, and helpful staff. Best of all, there are special
events (author visits, live performances, even seminars) almost daily. There are
also events for kids. The store is a favorite with night owls—it’s open until 11pm
or midnight every day. There are branches at the Eaton Centre (& 416/5913622) and at 2300 Yonge St., at Eglinton Avenue (& 416/544-0049). Manulife
Indigo Books Music & More
Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/925-3536. www.indigo.ca. Subway: Yonge/Bloor or Bay.
This charming shop is stocked with every book a child
could possibly want—and a lot more. Offerings are grouped by age, going up to
early adolescence. On weekends there are author visits and other special events.
Mabel’s Fables
662 Mount Pleasant. & 416/322-0438. Eglinton, then no. 34 bus to Mount Pleasant, and walk
2 blocks south.
Nicholas Hoare This shop has the cozy feel of an English library, with hardwood floors, plush couches, and a fireplace. There’s an extensive selection of
Canadian and international fiction, as well as heavyweight art tomes and children’s books. 45 Front St. E. & 416/777-2665. Subway: Union.
Open Air Books & Maps This shop caters to nature lovers and ecology buffs.
It carries a vast assortment of travel guidebooks and maps. 25 Toronto St. & 416/
363-0719. Subway: King.
New and old books about Eastern religion, mysticism, meditation, and the occult mix on the shelves. The focus is definitely New Age, but
you’ll find general-interest fiction and nonfiction, too. 509 Bloor St. W. & 416/925Seekers Books
1982. Subway: Bathurst.
The Silver Snail
Remember those comic books you read as a kid? Well,
they’re all here, with adult-oriented comics like the Sandman series. You’ll see a
sizable section of imported editions, and posters and movie memorabilia, too.
367 Queen St. W. & 416/593-0889. Subway: Osgoode.
If you’re looking for a rare first edition of a 19th- or
20th-century literary work in English, be sure to visit this shop, which is open
by appointment only. It also carries secondhand books about a variety of subjects. 489 Queen St. W., 2nd floor. & 416/703-9908. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west.
The World’s Biggest Bookstore The debate about whether the World’s
Biggest is really the world’s biggest rages on. Either way, the 27km (17 miles) of
bookshelves do contain a good selection. Browsing is welcome, but the bright,
bright lights are headache-inducing after a while. There are also software, video,
and magazine departments. 20 Edward St. & 416/977-7009. Subway: Dundas.
Steven Temple Books
CHINA, SILVER & GLASS
Du Verre Glass The store name is a bit of a misnomer. Gorgeous glassworks
are on display, but they share this airy, open space with ceramics, wood and
wrought-iron furniture, lamps, and candlesticks. 188 Strachan Ave. & 416/593-0182.
Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west.
Murano glass designs and cheery ceramics from Italy dominate this
store. Look a little closer and you’ll find a few French tapestries and tablecloths,
too. 88 Yorkville Ave. & 416/969-0253. Subway: Bay.
Muti
180
Value The Best Bargains
Maybe you can’t get something for nothing . . . but you can score
some pretty fab finds on the cheap in Toronto. It’s a treasure hunt of
sorts, and the spoils are anything but certain, but when you find that
perfect piece marked down to next-to-nothing, well, that just makes
it all worthwhile. Many Toronto retailers, including luxurious Holt
Renfrew, have their own outlet shops. Here’s my own little black book
of favorite foraging grounds. Happy hunting!
Dixie Outlet Mall Ten minutes from Pearson International Airport is
the answer to bargain-shoppers’ prayers. It’s hard to beat the Dixie
Outlet Mall for number of bargains per square foot. There are more
than 120 outlet shops here, including Femme de Carriere and chocolatier Laura Secord, so you’re bound to find something. 1250 S. Service
Rd., Mississauga. & 905/278-7492. Gardiner Expressway/Queen Elizabeth Way (QEW)
west to Dixie Rd. exit. Turn left, follow Dixie Rd. south to S. Service Rd.
Grreat Stuff There’s an awful lot of men’s clothes packed into this
small retail space, but if you’re not troubled by claustrophobia, dig in
for some amazing deals. Business casual is this shop’s mainstay, though
there are grreat prices on Italian silk ties and brand-name suits. 870
Queen St. W. & 416/533-7680. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Shaw St.
Holt Renfrew Last Call It might not be the most organized store
you’ve laid eyes on, but what it lacks in tidiness it makes up for in bargains. The racks are laden with brands such as Donna Karan, Prada,
and Versace, marked down to one-half to one-fifth of what they
would normally cost. There have been rumors of Kate Spade handbags
on sale here, but I have yet to arrive in time. May you have better luck.
370 Steeles Ave. W. & 905/886-7444. Subway: Finch, then Steeles West bus.
Honest Ed’s World Famous Shopping Centre Finds Ed’s is a Toronto
institution, framed with flashing red and yellow lights both outdoors
and indoors. “Don’t just stand there, buy something!” blurts out one
brazen sign. This idiosyncratic store has a deal on everything from
housewares to carpets, from clothing to sundries. Crazy-making as
shopping here can be, the bargains are unbeatable—but be warned,
the queues are, too. 581 Bloor St. W. & 416/537-2111. Subway: Bathurst.
The last word in luxe, whether it be fine china, crystal, or
silver. All of the top manufacturers are represented, including Waterford, Baccarat,
Christofle, Wedgewood, and Lenox. Even if you’re not in a buying mood, the
detailed displays are fascinating. If you are in a buying mood, the prices are better
than you’ll find elsewhere. Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/964-2900. Subway: Bay.
William Ashley
CIGARS & TOBACCO
This is Havana heaven for the stogie set. Thomas Hinds carries a wide range of Cuban cigars and cigarillos, as well as pipes and the other
smoking accouterments. Upstairs there’s a lounge and humidor. 8 Cumberland St.
Thomas Hinds
& 416/927-7703. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
181
Marilyn’s Here’s a rare thing: knockdown prices paired with attentive service. The specialty is Canadian fashions for women, from
sportswear to glamorous gowns. There are also in-store seminars
about fashion-forward topics like traveling with just one suitcase. 130
Spadina Ave. & 416/504-6777. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Queen St. W.
Paris Samples This store snaps up designers’ samples and marks
them down 20% to 75%. The clothes range from wool pants to velvet
dresses to micro-miniskirts. One caveat: The sizes are all under 14, and
many clothes come only in the smallest sizes. 101 Yorkville Ave. & 416/
926-0656. Subway: Bay.
The Shoe Company This is every foot fetishist’s dream: great shoes
for men and women from Unisa, Nine West, and others, marked down
to unbeatable prices. There are lots of funky styles that won’t be stylish for long, but it won’t hurt your pocketbook to splurge. There are
outlets around the city, including First Canadian Place. 711 Yonge St.
Tom’s Place After more than 40 years in business, Tom’s Place looks
sharper than ever. While the shop devotes an entire floor to women’s
wear, the best buys are in the men’s department: You’ll find brandname merchandise by the likes of Armani and Valentino. Suits that
cost C$495 to $1,800 (US$347–$1,260) elsewhere ring up for C$299 to
$850 (US$209–$595) here. Tom’s Place stocks sizes from 36 short to 50
tall. 190 Baldwin St. & 416/596-0297. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Baldwin St.
Winner’s This northern outpost of the U.S.-owned T.J. Maxx chain
offers great deals on clothes for men and women (think Jones New
York, Tommy Hilfiger, and Earl Jeans), and top-name togs for the kiddies. There’s also an ever-changing selection of housewares, cookware, linens, toiletries, and toys. The new 40,000-square-foot outlet at
College Park is always packed, but its large, airy space is filled with
deals. College Park. & 416/598-8800; Subway: College. The smaller but longstanding location in the Fashion District is another good bet. 57 Spadina
Ave. & 416/585-2052. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to King St. W.
CRAFTS
The Algonquians Sweet Grass Gallery
Ojibway-owned and -operated,
this shop specializes in exquisite Native Canadian arts and crafts. The collection
includes porcupine-quill jewelry, soapstone sculpture, Iroquois masks, prints,
antique spearheads, and moccasins. 668 Queen St. W. & 416/703-1336. Subway:
Osgoode, then any streetcar west.
Arctic Canada Here you’ll find a wide range of arts and crafts, from soapstone
carvings to jewelry and clothing, all hailing from the Arctic Circle. There’s
another branch at Pearson International Airport, Terminal 2 (& 905/678-6064).
207 Queens Quay W. & 416/203-7889. Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay.
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This 10,000-square-foot complex consists of boutiques selling
original art, folk crafts, and furniture. Connected to it is the Wagner Rosenbaum
Gallery, which exhibits work by new and established Toronto artists every
month. 169 King St. E. & 416/777-9617. Subway: King.
Art Zone Sisters Jane and Kathryn Irwin own and operate this gallerylike space.
Their main medium is stained glass, and their style is colorful and modern. They
also carry a limited number of glass gift items, including bowls, trays, and sculptural objects. 592 Markham St. (south of Bloor St. W.). & 416/534-1892. Subway: Bathurst.
Five Potters Studio Phone ahead for an appointment, and you’re free to
watch the ceramic artists—all women—at work. The pieces on display vary
from functional to sculptural items. Prices range from C$15 to $300
(US$11–$210). 131A Pears Ave. & 416/924-6992. Subway: St. George.
Frida Finds Arts and crafts from Africa, Southeast Asia, and Latin America
share space in this bi-level shop. It offers an assortment of colorful woven mats,
clothes, carved statuettes, jewelry, and candelabras. 39 Front St. E. & 416/366-3169.
Arts on King
Subway: Union.
Lynn Robinson Robinson herself creates many of the bronze and raku
(Japanese earthenware) objects on display. In addition to the sculpture and glass,
wood, and clay pieces, you’ll see objects by five jewelers working with precious
metals. Visitors are often treated to the sight of a potter working near the
entrance. 709 Queen St. W. & 416/703-2467. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to
Bathurst St.
Native Stone Art This shop houses the creations of native Indian artisans
from across North America. There are Mohawk and Iroquois carvings, Cree moccasins, and Navajo, Zuni, and Hopi jewelry. The quality is very high. 2 McCaul St.
(at Queen St. W.). & 416/593-0924. Subway: Osgoode.
DEPARTMENT STORES
Holt Renfrew Designers such as Donna Karan, Christian Lacroix, and Yves
St. Laurent figure in Holt Renfrew’s four levels of merchandise. The basement
connects with an underground mall, and features a gourmet food department
and a cafe. Holt Renfrew Centre, 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/922-2333. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
The Hudson’s Bay Company Started as a fur-trading business when the first
French-speaking settlers came to Canada, the Bay boasts excellent mid-range
selections of clothing and housewares. It schedules weekend sales almost every
week, though shoppers should be warned that winning the staff ’s attention
requires patience. There are several locations around the city; addresses for the
two best ones are listed here. (1) 176 Yonge St. (at Queen St.). & 416/861-9111. Subway:
Queen. (2) 2 Bloor St. E. (at Yonge St.). & 416/972-3333. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
If you visited Toronto before 2000, you’ll remember the gorgeous
Eaton’s department store, which anchored the Eaton Centre complex. Owned
and operated by the Toronto-based Eaton family for more than a century, it
closed in 1999. Sears Canada bought the Eatons name (minus the apostrophe)
and opened this department store in its place. Now branded as a Sears store, it’s
more upscale than your average Sears. Eaton Centre. & 416/343-2111. Subway: Dundas.
Sears
FASHION
Let’s get this out of the way first: Toronto has all of the requisite big-name European boutiques along Bloor Street West between Yonge Street and Avenue Road.
You’ll find Louis Vuitton at no. 110, Gucci at no. 130, and Chanel, Prada, and
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Hermès bundled together at The Colonnade shopping arcade at no. 131. The
listings below focus primarily on shops that are unique to Toronto (with just a
couple of exceptions). Also see the listings under “Shoes” and “Vintage Clothing,” later in this chapter.
CHILDREN’S
Kids Cats & Dogs Not just for kids—the shop carries its signature T-shirts,
pajamas, and sweats in sizes from infant to adult. Everything, including knapsacks and comforters, sports a cat or dog motif. 508 Eglinton Ave. W. & 416/484-1844.
Subway: Eglinton.
West Queen West isn’t just for grown-ups, you know. This
Finds
charming boutique carries Canadian- and European-made clothing for kids,
plus toys and furnishings. 670 Queen St. W. & 416/681-0368. Subway: Osgoode, then
Kol Kid
streetcar west to Palmerston Ave.
Lovechild A favorite with tiny tots who are already developing fashion savvy,
Lovechild offers a selection of groovy clothes in a rainbow of colors. 2523 Yonge St.
& 416/486-4746. Subway: Eglinton.
Misdemeanors
Located just across the street from Pat Chorley’s shop for
grown-ups, Fashion Crimes (p. 185), Misdemeanors stocks the stuff that little
girls’ dreams are made of. In addition to gossamer gowns, there’s a selection of
flower-power home accents. 3221⁄ 2 Queen St. W. & 416/351-8758. Subway: Osgoode.
MEN’S & WOMEN’S
Club Monaco This is Club Monaco’s flagship store in Toronto. It’s an airy,
high-ceilinged space filled with casual wear and sportswear, with a smattering of
work-ready clothes. It also has its own accessories and makeup lines. There are
19 other outlets around the city, including 403 Queen St. W. (& 416/979-5633).
157 Bloor St. W. & 416/591-8837. www.clubmonaco.com. Subway: Museum.
Hoax Couture The corset-topped dresses on display in the front window bring
a Moulin Rouge cancan show to mind, but the shop’s owners, Chris Tyrell and Jim
Searle, design dramatic, playful clothes for men and women. 114 Cumberland St.
& 416/929-4629. Subway: Bay.
If you’re yearning for the Emerald Isle, you’ll welcome the
sight of lace shawls, linens, sweaters, and Celtic music, books, and giftware.
There’s also a selection of linen suits by Dublin designer Paul Costelloe. 150 Bloor
The Irish Shop
St. W. & 416/922-9400. Subway: Bay.
Renowned for its comfy, casual clothing, Canadian-owned
Value
Modrobes got its start when its founder, Steven Debus, was still attending the
university. Debus designed “exam pants”—trousers so comfy you could spend a
day writing exams in them without your bum going numb. Today, the store’s
offerings include T-shirts, jackets, and hats. 239 Queen St. W. & 416/597-9560.
Modrobes
www.modrobes.com. Subway: Osgoode.
The Gap’s little brother hit Toronto like a hurricane when it
Overrated
opened in 2001. There are no longer queues to get into the store, but it remains
incredibly popular—a fact that’s an enduring mystery to me. Sure, the prices are
reasonable, but the store is cramped and chaotic, and the product selection is
much smaller than at its U.S. counterparts. Unless you’ve never been to an Old
Navy outlet before, steer clear. Eaton Centre. & 416/593-2551. Subway: Dundas.
Roots This is one Canadian retailer that seems to be universally loved. The
clothes are casual, from hooded sweats to fleece jackets, and there’s a good selection
Old Navy
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of leather footwear. Don’t overlook the tykes’ department, which has the same stuff
in tiny sizes. Other locations include the Eaton Centre (& 416/593-9640). 95A Bloor
St. W. & 416/323-9512. www.roots.ca. Subway: Bay.
Shop owners Pui Sim and Alarice Jones design clothes that
move easily between a “smart casual” office environment and the smart chic of
the latest bistro. The women’s clothes are available in sizes 6 to 16. 388 College
Sim & Jones
Street. & 416/920-2573. Subway: Queen’s Park, then streetcar to Borden St.
The acronym stands for “The New Trend,” and
Finds
this small chain offers just that, with fashions from Betsey Johnson and Plein
Sud for les femmes, and Diesel and Iceberg Jean for les hommes. There are also
locations uptown at 368 and 388 Eglinton Avenue. Hazelton Lanes, 55 Avenue Rd.
TNT Man/TNT Woman
& 416/975-1960 (men’s shop) and 416/975-1810 (women’s shop). Subway: Bay.
Wenches & Rogues
This upscale shop carries the latest and greatest in
Canadian design for men and women. Featured labels include Misura by Joeffer
Caoc, as well as up-and-coming talent from around the country. 610 Queen St. W.
& 416/536-2172. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Bathurst.
Zara Value This Spanish retailer is renowned for transferring the latest looks into
affordable fashions less than a month after they appear on the runway. This bi-level
shop has a women’s department at street level; the equally stylish men’s shop is on
the lower concourse. 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/916-2401. www.zara.com. Subway: Bay.
MEN’S
Boomer
Ever wonder where the Barenaked Ladies or Moist get the glad
rags they wear in their videos? Look no farther than Boomer, a hip shop that
stocks staples like Hugo Boss and Cinque, and well as the latest from Swedish
trendsetter J. Linderberg. 309 Queen St. W. & 416/598-0013. Subway: Osgoode.
Decibel This trendy shop is a terrific spot to pick up the latest and greatest in
casualwear. Labels range from well-known brands like Kenneth Cole to up-andcomers like Psycho Cowboy or Pusch (from Denmark and Calgary, respectively).
Don’t like trendy? Then don’t shop here. If you do, you’ll be confronted by fashion favorites like Evisu Jeans, which are imported from Japan. 706
Delphic
Queen St. W. & 416/603-3334. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Manning Ave.
Eza Wear Finds West Queen West has more than its fair share of up-andcoming designers, and this is one example. Design duo Susanne Langlois and Erin
Murphy make many of their cool clothes from hemp, which looks as elegant as
linen. 695 Queen St. W. & 416/975-1388. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Markham St.
Harry Rosen
Designed like a mini department store, Harry Rosen carries
the crème de la crème of menswear designers, including Hugo Boss, Brioni, and
Versace. There’s also a good selection of work-worthy footwear, and a famous
“Great Wall of Shirts.” 82 Bloor St. W. & 416/972-0556. www.harryrosen.com. Subway: Bay.
Moores There’s something for everyone at this spacious shop. Most of the
suits, sport coats, and dress pants are Canadian-made, and international designers like Oscar de la Renta are represented, too. Sizes run from extra short to extra
tall and oversize. The prices tend to be reasonable, and bargains abound. 100
Yonge St. & 416/363-5442. Subway: King.
WOMEN’S
Aritzia This Vancouver retailer now has an outpost on Queen West (another
one is set to open in the Eaton Centre). The clothes tend to be sporty and fun,
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though there are some sexy numbers by the hard-to-find French label Kookaï.
Comrags Designers Judy Cornish and Joyce Gunhouse create retro-inspired
clothing that looks great on a variety of body types. 654 Queen St. W. & 416/360-7249.
www.comrags.com. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Palmerston.
Little Italy is famous for its nightlife, but if you happen by durFinds
ing the day be sure to check out designer Trish Ewanika’s boutique. Her tailored
creations are perfect for women who don’t like suits but want to look polished
at work. 490 College St. & 416/927-9699. Subway: Queen’s Park, then streetcar west to
Ewanika
Palmerston Ave.
If Misdemeanors (p. 183) is a playground for little
princesses, then Fashion Crimes is the stomping ground for their fairy godmothers. The glamorous dresses, designed by shop owner Pam Chorley, are a
tribute to playful femininity. 395 Queen St. W. & 416/592-9001. Subway: Osgoode.
Femme De Carriere For a dose of Quebecois savoir-faire, look no further
than this elegant emporium. While the name translates into “career woman,” the
offerings range from shapely suits to evening-appropriate dresses and chic separates. Eaton Centre. & 416/595-0951. Subway: Queen.
Fresh Baked Goods Finds No, this isn’t a bakery. Owner Laura Jean “the knitting queen” features a line of flirty knitwear made of cotton, mohair, wool, or lace.
This is a favorite haunt of the celebrity set—stars like Neve Campbell drop by
when they’re in town. The staff is friendly and incredibly helpful; if you like a
sweater but not its buttons, they will sew on different ones from their sizeable collection free of charge. They also do custom orders. 274 Augusta Ave. & 416/966-0123.
Fashion Crimes
www.freshbakedgoods.com. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Baldwin St., and walk 2 blocks west.
F/X The significance of the name is clear from the start: This is dressing for
dramatic effect. Funkier pieces from the prêt-à-porter collections of Vivienne
Westwood and Anna Sui are at the back of the store. There are also cutting-edge
shoes and boots, a makeup collection, and candy. 152 Spadina Ave. & 416/703-5595.
Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Queen St. W.
Can you make a fashion statement with a handbag? Canadian designer Jane Ip thinks so. Purses for all occasions, from zebra-patterned
boxy bags for day to glittering sequin-encrusted numbers for a night out, fill her
boutique. Prices are surprisingly low, with most offerings in the C$50 to $80
(US$35–$56) range. 106 Yorkville Ave. & 416/975-5115. Subway: Bay.
Linda Lundstrom Lundstrom has been designing women’s clothing since the
early 1970s. Her distinctive brand of sportswear incorporates native Canadian
art and themes. The famous La Parka coat is still a bestseller. 136 Cumberland St.
Jeanne Lottie
& 416/927-9009. Subway: Bay.
Lululemon
Yoga devotees will be delighted by this West Queen West shop.
In addition to the house label’s nicely designed workout wear you’ll find Ayurvedic
skin care products by Christy Turlington, yoga mats, and other accessories.
734 Queen St. West & 416/703-1399. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Claremont St.
Maxi Boutique Homegrown talent takes center stage here, with designs from
Lida Baday, Ross Mayer, and Misura by Joeffer Caoc. There’s a full complement
of suits, separates, and eveningwear. 575 Danforth Ave. & 416/461-6686. Subway: Pape.
Peach Berserk
Toronto designer (and local legend) Kingi Carpenter creates dramatically printed silk separates, dresses and coats. But don’t look for
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demure florals—prints range from bold martini glasses to the ironic “Do I Look
Fat in This?” logo. 507 Queen St. W. & 416/504-1711. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar
west to Spadina.
Pink Cobra I have to admit, the name alone would attract me. Shoppers here
are mesmerized by the clothes: hard-to-get labels like Buddhist Punk, Rude,
URCA, and Fake Genius. 758 Queen St. W. & 416/504-7804. Subway: Osgoode, then
streetcar west to Niagara St.
Price Roman
The husband-and-wife team of Derek Price and Tess Roman
produces sleek, tailored clothes with a sultry edge. They are rightly famous for
their special occasion dresses. 267 Queen St. W. & 416/979-7363. Subway: Osgoode.
Rhonda Maternity For the last of the red-hot mamas, there’s this glamorous
boutique. The stylish suits, sweater sets, and sportswear are this store’s exclusive
designs. 110 Cumberland St. & 416/921-3116. Subway: Bay.
FOOD
Who says health food can’t be fun? This large-scale emporium stocks everything from organic produce to vitamins to all-natural beauty
potions. Stop in at the cafe for a vegetarian snack or light meal. 348 Danforth Ave.
The Big Carrot
& 416/466-2129. Subway: Chester.
The Bonnie Stern School Crammed to the rafters with cooking accoutrements (such as stovetop grills) and exotic books, this store also features the
raw ingredients you need to produce fine cuisine. It carries top-notch olive oil,
balsamic vinegar, Asian sauces, and candied flower petals. If you take a course or
seminar, you get a 10% discount on everything you buy. 6 Erskine Ave. & 416/
484-4810. Subway: Eglinton.
Cheese, glorious cheese. More than 150
Value
varieties are available, from mild boccocini to the greenest of Gorgonzola, and
the staff is generous with samples. 76 Kensington Ave. & 416/593-9251. Subway: Spad-
Global Cheese Shoppe
ina, then LRT to Baldwin Ave.
House of Tea Visitors to this shop can drink in the heady scent of more than
150 loose teas. And the selection of cups, mugs, and tea caddies runs from chic
to comical. 1017 Yonge St. & 416/922-1226. Subway: Rosedale.
Pusateri’s Finds The Pusateri’s store up at Lawrence and Avenue Road is a
Toronto institution—and a delight for gourmets—but because of its out-of-theway location, I haven’t recommended it for visitors. Now that problem has been
solved: In 2003, Pusateri’s opened a gorgeous new store on Yorkville Avenue at
the corner of Bay Street. The quality is as high as ever, though some of the offerings differ from the uptown shop—for example, travelers will appreciate the
excellent prepared meals that can be eaten on the go. 37 Yorkville Ave. Telephone number unavailable at press time. Subway: Bay.
Located in the new SoHo Metropolitan Hotel, the food here
is delicate, exquisite, and priced accordingly. There are counters of terrines and
pâtés, caviar, pastries, and chocolates, as well as shelves filled with bottled Hong
Kong sauces and boxed Dean & Deluca spices. 318 Wellington St. W. & 416/961-0055.
Senses Bakery
www.senses.ca. Subway: St. Andrew.
All of the rich truffles, colorful almond
dragées, and fruit jellies in this shop are flown in from Belgium. If you’re going
to splurge, you may as well do it in style. 126A Cumberland St. & 416/968-7777. Sub-
Simone Marie Belgian Chocolate
way: Bay.
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Remember Pez, candy necklaces, and
lollipop rings? Sugar Mountain carries the tooth-aching sweets of youth, several
of which have been elevated to cult status. Teens are drawn to this store, but the
biggest customers are nostalgic boomers. 320 Richmond St. W. & 416/204-9544. Sub-
Sugar Mountain Confectionery
way: Osgoode.
GIFTS & MORE
Down East Gifts and Gallery If your travels won’t take you any farther east
than Toronto, drop in on this shop to check out the folk art of the Atlantic
provinces. The carvings, prints, and knickknacks are whimsical and charming.
508 Bathurst St. & 416/925-1642. Subway: Bathurst.
Owner Viola Jull spent several years living in France, and
she re-creates a Parisian atmosphere in her shop. Many items are unique, including painted lampshades, antique silver, and framed prints. There are also a few
gourmet food products and hand-milled soaps. 6 Roxborough St. W. & 416/944-2204.
French Country
Subway: Rosedale.
This small store is a big lure for visiting celebs. Do the Bliss Spa and Philosophy skin care lines draw them in? Maybe it’s the eye-catching T-shirts or the
fab costume jewelry. 163 Cumberland St. & 416/964-6751. Subway: Bay.
Japanese Paper Place The Japanese have elevated paper-making to an art
form. In addition to being popular with artists, this shop has all the boxes, papers,
and handmade cards you could ever need to create exquisite gift-wrappings.
Better yet, it also stocks instruction books! 887 Queen St. W. & 416/703-0089. Subway:
Ice
Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Ossington Ave.
Legends of the Game This collectibles store, just 2 blocks north of SkyDome, houses memorabilia of Babe Ruth, Wayne Gretzky, Muhammad Ali, and
Michael Jordan, among others. There are trading cards, team jerseys, and other
souvenirs. 322A King St. W. & 416/971-8848. Subway: St. Andrew.
Oh Yes, Toronto Looking for souvenirs for the folks back home? Oh Yes,
Toronto stocks no end of Hogtown knickknacks, as well as quality T-shirts and
sweatshirts. There’s another outlet at Queens Quay West (& 416/203-0607).
Eaton Centre. & 416/593-6749. Subway: Dundas or Queen.
If you take your writing implements seriously—and cringe at the
thought of a disposable ballpoint—check out this small store. It carries top-ofthe-line pens from Mont Blanc and Waterman, as well as secondhand fountain
pens. 159 Yonge St. & 416/364-8977. Subway: Dundas or Queen.
Pencraft
HEALTH & BEAUTY
Elizabeth Milan Hotel Day Spa
Even if you don’t have time for the spa, you
will appreciate the well-stocked shop in its foyer. Elizabeth Milan carries one of the
widest arrays of imported beauty products I’ve ever seen, including Dermologica,
Yonka, Gehwol, and the perennial favorite from France, Decleor. Fairmont Royal York,
100 Front St. W. & 416/350-7500. Subway: Union.
This clever U.K.-based emporium looks like a gourmet grocery store.
The heady scent of perfumes is the giveaway. Lush stocks a selection of fizzy bath
bombs, skin lotions and potions, and aromatherapy-oriented items. All products
are sold by weight. 312 Queen St. W. & 416/599-5874. www.lush.com. Subway: Osgoode.
M.A.C.
This makeup line used to be a trade secret among models and
actors, though the word has been out for a while. (The company was founded
Lush
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in Toronto and is now owned by Estée Lauder.) M.A.C.’s flagship store is perpetually packed, especially on weekends, but if you call ahead you can schedule
an appointment for a makeup lesson. The C$25 (US$18) charge is entirely
redeemable in product. In addition to cosmetics, the store carries skin- and haircare supplies. 89 Bloor St. W. & 416/929-7555. Subway: Bay.
Noah’s Value This is a mecca for health nuts. Noah’s boasts aisle after aisle of
vitamins and dietary supplements, organic foods and “natural” candies, skin care
and bath products, and books and periodicals. The staff is well informed and
helpful. There’s a smaller but more centrally located outlet at 667 Yonge St. (at
Bloor; & 416/969-0220). 322 Bloor St. W. & 416/968-7930. Subway: Spadina.
Rubies Beauty Bar Finds This small shop is like a candy store for makeup
junkies. You’ll find an amazing array of products, many by Canadian brands you’ve
never heard of before, such as Silk Road and Cake. 715 Queen St. W. & 416/601-6789.
Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Bathurst.
Thompson’s Homeopathic Supplies This is just like an old-fashioned
apothecary, with endless rows of potions behind a wooden counter. It has a
homeopathic remedy for everything from the common cold to dermatitis to conjunctivitis. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable. 844 Yonge St. & 416/922-2300.
Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
HOUSEWARES & FURNISHINGS
The Art Shoppe This is one of the prettiest stores in the city, with top-notch
furniture arranged into suites of rooms. A wide range of styles is on display, from
gilty baroque to streamlined Art Deco. The price tags are high, but the store is
well worth browsing. 2131 Yonge St. & 416/487-3211. Subway: Eglinton.
Caban Club Monaco’s foray into the world of home decor has been a slamdunk. This bi-level ode to loft living features clean-lined furnishings, table settings and accessories—all for reasonable prices. 262 Queen St. W. & 416/596-0386.
www.caban.com. Subway: Osgoode.
Elte Carpet & Home With 130,000 square feet of showroom space, Elte has
room for a lot more than rugs. This megastore is divided into boutiques where big
names like Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein flog their home-design lines. Historyspanning reproductions abound, and there are a few antiques finds, too. 80 Ronald
Ave. (just west of Dufferin St.). & 416/785-7885. Subway: Eglinton W., then any westbound bus to
Ronald Ave.
Anyone who has been carried away by reading about the south
of France—think of Peter Mayle’s A Year in Provence—will feel right at home
here. It stocks brightly colored dinnerware, printed bed linens, and wroughtiron furniture. 20 Hazelton Ave. & 416/975-9400. Subway: Bay.
Kitchen Stuff Plus Value This housewares shop sells brand-name goods from
the likes of Umbra at discount prices. It offers a good selection of picture frames,
wine racks, area rugs, candles, painted ceramics, and kitchen accessories. 703
En Provence
Yonge St. & 416/944-2718. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
This terrific shop delivers comfort and style in equal measure.
Many of the items, from ornate iron kettles to tassel-trimmed ottomans,
hark back to a more glamorous age. There’s also Nestings Kids at 418 Eglinton
Ave. (& 416/322-0511; Subway: Eglinton, then walk west to Avenue Rd.).
Nestings
1609 Bayview Ave. & 416/932-3704. Subway: Eglinton, then no. 34 bus to Bayview.
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With offerings for both home and office,
this shop showcases some of the best of streamlined 20th-century design. Many
of the items are European imports, like the tables and chairs by Sweden’s Bruno
Mathsson; other furnishings are from lines such as Knoll, Kartell, and Flou.
Quasi-Modo Modern Furniture
If you have only a few minutes in Chinatown,
Finds
spend them here. You’ll find beautiful hand-painted ceramics, earthenware, decorative items, kitchen utensils, and small appliances. Best of all, just about everything is inexpensive and of reliable quality. 360 Spadina Ave. & 416/977-6364.
Tap Phong Trading Co.
Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Baldwin St.
Life is drama, so why shouldn’t the items you fill your home
with be dull? That seems to be the question at Teatro Verde, where even table
coasters are things of great beauty. Hazelton Lanes. & 416/966-2227. www.teatroverde.
Teatro Verde
com. Subway: Bay.
UpCountry
This Canadian company made its reputation with upscale Arts
& Crafts and Mission-style home furnishings. The offerings at its flagship Toronto
shop have expanded to include modern and contemporary furniture as well as vintage metal pieces. The sizable selection of decorative touches includes globes and
pottery, and now inhabits a separate location at 16 Eastern Ave. (at Trinity St.;
& 416/367-3906). 214 King St. E. & 416/777-1700. www.upcountry.ca. Subway: King.
JEWELRY
Birks
This Canadian institution, founded in 1879, is synonymous with
top quality. Among the silver, crystal, and china is an extensive selection of topquality jewelry, including exquisite pearls and knockout diamond engagement
rings (the diamonds themselves were mined in northern Canada). There’s even
a children’s section, filled with keepsake gifts like Royal Doulton Bunnykins
china and whimsical picture frames by Nova Scotia’s Seagull Pewter. My personal favorite is the showcase of antique estate jewelry. There’s a smaller branch
at the Eaton Centre (& 416/979-9311). Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/9222266. www.birks.com. Subway: Bay.
Experimetal Some of proprietor Anne Sportun’s sterling silver, gold, and plat-
inum creations have won design awards. She will also fashion custom engagement
and wedding bands. Also on display are pieces by other North American jewelers. 588 Markham St. (south of Bloor St. W.). & 416/538-3313. www.experimetal.com. Subway:
Bathurst.
In gangster-speak, a “mink” is a sexy woman—exactly the type who
Finds
would love the fabulous fakes at this boutique. Many of the necklaces, bracelets,
and rings are Canadian-designed, but a few are Euro imports. 550 College St. & 416/
Mink
929-9214. Subway: Queen’s Park, then streetcar west to Euclid Ave.
Peter Cullman Cullman, who recently celebrated his 40th year as a goldsmith,
studied and apprenticed in Europe, but his designs also show the influence of
his travels to Africa and Mexico. You can watch him create his unique minimasterpieces in his shop. Cumberland Court, 99 Yorkville Ave. & 416/964-2196. Subway: Bay.
Royal de Versailles Jewellers This European-style shop carries an eyecatching assortment of pearls, gold, and platinum. The designs range from classic to funkier, playful styles. There are also watches by the likes of Piaget, Cartier,
Rolex, and Tag Heuer, as well as a Bulgari boutique. 101 Bloor St. W. & 416/9677201. Subway: Bay.
190
Silverbridge Most of the necklaces, bracelets, rings, and earrings here are
fashioned of silver, and the sensibility is modern. Most of the designs are the
work of Costin Lazar, and they are produced in Toronto; Lazar will also take on
custom work. There are also a few pieces in 18-karat gold and platinum, as well
as watches by Georg Jensen and Ole Mathiesen. 162 Cumberland St. & 416/9232591. www.silverbridge.com. Subway: Bay.
Diamonds are still a girl’s best friend at this Art Deco–style
shop. Precious gems and designs by Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso are on the
first level; the second floor holds silver jewelry, stationery, and housewares.
Tiffany & Co.
85 Bloor St. W. & 416/921-3900. www.tiffany.com. Subway: Bay.
LEATHER GOODS
This Canadian chain carries suede and leather coats, suits, pants,
Value
and skirts at reasonable prices. Not-uncommon sales knock the prices down
20% to 50%. Eaton Centre. & 416/598-1159. www.danier.com. Subway: Queen.
Taschen! Exclusive designer handbags, luggage, wallets, and other accessories are
mainstays here. Many are European imports, and quality is high. 162 Cumberland St.
Danier
& 416/961-3185. Subway: Bay.
LINGERIE
La Senza Value This Montréal-based chain carries inexpensive but eye-catching
bra-and-panty sets and naughty-looking nighties. There are also plush unisex
robes and patterned boxers. An assortment of slippers, candles, bath mousse, and
picture frames rounds out the offerings. Holt Renfrew Centre, 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/
972-1079. www.lasenza.com. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
La Vie en Rose You’ll find quite the eclectic collection of undies here, from
sensible cotton briefs to maribou-trimmed teddies, retro PJs to up-to-the-minute
cleavage enhancers. The items at the front of the store are inexpensive; the farther
back you go, the pricier it gets. Eaton Centre. & 416/595-0898. Subway: Queen.
Linea Intima Finds While there’s no shortage of fabulous undergarments at this
boutique, the real reason to visit is owner Liliana Mann’s encyclopedic knowledge
of what suits the female form. This extends to prosthetics and bras that are
designed for women who have had mastectomies. 1925 Avenue Rd. & 416/416-7801726. www.lineaintima.com. Subway: York Mills, then bus west along Wilson Ave. to Avenue Rd.
and walk 6 blocks south to Brooke Ave.
MAGAZINES & NEWSPAPERS
Great Canadian News Company This small shop has a great selection, with
more than 2,000 magazines filling its shelves, but not a comfortable place for a
lengthy browse. BCE Place, 30 Yonge St. (at Front St.). & 416/363-2242. Subway: Union.
Maison de la Presse Internationale
Although this store fills up fast on
weekends, drawing expats and locals alike, it’s still a great place to while away an
hour. The many international magazines and newspapers are as current as you’ll
find. 124 Yorkville Ave. & 416/928-2328. Subway: Bay.
MALLS & SHOPPING CENTERS
Atrium on Bay This two-level complex has more than 60 shops selling cloth-
ing, jewelry, furniture, and more. Bay and Dundas sts. & 416/980-2801. Subway: Dundas.
This shopping center has been under renovation forever, but
some new sections are now complete, including the giant new Winner’s store
(see “The Best Bargains” on p. 180). 444 Yonge St. & 416/597-1221. Subway: College.
College Park
191
It’s odd that one of urban Toronto’s main attractions is a
mall—but, oh, what a mall. More than 285 shops and restaurants spread over
four levels in the Eaton Centre, which takes up 2 entire city blocks. 220 Yonge St.
Eaton Centre
& 416/598-2322. Subway: Dundas or Queen.
A piece of the labyrinth of the underground city,
this complex houses 120 shops and restaurants. It also stages free noontime
events each week, with performances as diverse as Opera Atelier’s Handel recital
and the dancing monks of the Tibetan Drikung Monastery. There are also ongoing art exhibitions. King and Bay sts. & 416/862-8138. Subway: King.
Hazelton Lanes
A byword for elegance and extravagance, Hazelton is a twolevel complex with about 90 shops. The charming courtyard at the center transforms into an ice-skating rink in winter. 55 Avenue Rd. & 416/968-8602. Subway: Bay.
Holt Renfrew Centre Anchored by the chic Holt Renfrew department store,
this small underground concourse is more down to earth. It connects with the
Manulife Centre and the Hudson’s Bay Centre. 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/923-2255. SubFirst Canadian Place
way: Yonge/Bloor.
Manulife Centre
More than 50 posh shops—including William Ashley,
Indigo Books Music & More, and a top-notch LCBO outlet—occupy this complex. The Manulife connects to the Holt Renfrew Centre underground. 55 Bloor
St. W. & 416/923-9525. Subway: Bay.
Tips Same Time Next Year
In addition to the post-holiday sales at most shops, there are some
don’t-miss special sales that locals have penned into their calendars.
Sale locations are often scattered around the city, so call each store for
details and exact dates.
• MAY: The Fashion Design Council of Canada hosts a clearance sale
of top-name Canadian designer wear at the Design Exchange, 234
Bay St. & 416/977-6184.
• JULY: Many retailers host semi-annual sales that cut prices by as much
as 50%. Some of the best are at the Art Shoppe, 2131 Yonge St.,
& 416/487-3211 (p. 188); Holt Renfrew, 50 Bloor St. W., & 416/9222333 (p. 182); and Elte Carpet & Home, 80 Ronald Ave., & 416/7857885 (p. 188).
• OCTOBER: The Old Clothing Show & Sale should really be called the
New and Old Clothing Show, because there’s almost as much new
clothing here as there is vintage wear. Exhibition Place; & 416/
410-1310.
• NOVEMBER: Fine china and crystal retailer William Ashley’s (p. 180)
annual warehouse sale is one of the season’s most eagerly anticipated
events; call & 416/964-2900 for information. The One-of-a-Kind Craft
Show & Sale brings about 400 craft artists under one roof at Exhibition Place, and the prices are often better than you’ll find in shops;
call & 416/960-3680. The Fashion Design Council of Canada hosts
another designer clearance sale this month, in case you missed the
one in May (see above).
192
Queen’s Quay Terminal This is waterfront shopping at its best, with more
than 30 shops and cafes. Queens Quay caters to tourists—you’ll find some
unique items, but the prices tend to be moderate to high. 207 Queens Quay W.
& 416/203-0510. www.queens-quay-terminal.com. Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay.
Royal Bank Plaza Part of Toronto’s underground city, the Royal Bank Plaza
connects to Union Station and to the Royal York Hotel. Its 60-plus outlets include
a variety of shops, two full-service restaurants, and a food court. The building
above it is worth a look, too. Bay and Front sts. & 416/974-5570. Subway: Union.
Scarborough Town Centre This is a megamall to rival the Eaton Centre; if
you’re staying on the city’s eastern fringe, you can’t miss it. It has more than 200
shops, including branches similar to those at the Eaton Centre. Hwy. 401 and
McCowan Ave. & 416/296-0296. Subway: Scarborough Town Centre.
Cheek-by-jowl to the Art Gallery of Ontario, the
Grange contains more than 40 shops. Its International Food Market has decent
Middle Eastern and Asian selections. 122 St. Patrick St. & 416/598-1414. Subway: St.
Village by the Grange
Patrick.
MARKETS
Kensington Market
This neighborhood has changed dramatically in the
past 40 years. Originally a Jewish community, it now borders on Chinatown. It
contains several Asian herbalists and grocers, as well as West Indian and Middle
Eastern shops. Kensington Avenue has the greatest concentration of vintage
clothing stores in the city. For a full description, see “Walking Tour: Chinatown
& Kensington Market,” in chapter 7. Along Baldwin, Kensington, and Augusta aves.
No phone. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Baldwin St. or Dundas St. W.
This market is a local favorite for fresh produce, and
it even draws people who live a good distance away. Hours are Tuesday through
Thursday from 9am to 7pm, Friday from 8am to 8pm, and Saturday from 5am
(when the farmers arrive) to 5pm. See p. 141 in chapter 6 for a complete
description. 92 Front St. E. & 416/392-7219. Subway: Union.
St. Lawrence Market
MUSIC
This is the flagship Toronto store of the British chain. (You’ll find
smaller outlets throughout the city.) The selection of pop, rock, jazz, and classical music is large. Best of all, you can listen to a CD before you buy it. 333 Yonge
HMV
St. & 416/596-0333. Subway: Dundas.
On the Toronto Symphony Orchestra’s home turf, this
attractive shop includes several TSO CDs in its collection of classical and choral
music. Roy Thomson Hall, 60 Simcoe St. & 416/593-4822. Subway: St. Andrew.
Sam the Record Man I, like most Torontonians, still have a soft spot for
Sam’s, though it is but a shadow of its former glory. The store—beloved by
Canadian artists like Joni Mitchell, Rush, Liona Boyd, and the Guess Who
because it has always promoted homegrown talent—has gone through rough
times of late, and large sections of the store now lie empty. 347 Yonge St. & 416/
The Music Store
977-4650. Subway: Dundas.
SEX TOYS
Believe it or not, Lovecraft—which marks its 32nd anniversary in
2004—is downright wholesome. Sure, there are the requisite bad-girl (and -boy)
lingerie and toys, but much of the shop stocks joke gifts, T-shirts with suggestive slogans, and an impressive collection of erotic literature (no porn mags).
Lovecraft
193
The staff is friendly and the atmosphere playful. 27 Yorkville Ave. & 877/923-7331 or
416/923-7331. Subway: Bay.
SHOES
Browns
To treat your feet to fabulous footwear by Manolo Blahnik, Prada,
or Ferragamo, beat a path to this newly renovated shop for men and women.
There’s also a selection of leather handbags. Browns has several branches around
the city. Eaton Centre. & 416/979-9270. Subway: Queen.
Capezio Whether you’re looking for the perfect pair of ballet slippers or an
up-to-the-minute design from Steve Madden or Guess, you’ll find it here. All
the shoes and other leather goods are for women. 70 Bloor St. W. & 416/920-1006.
Subway: Bay.
For serious shoppers only. This high-end store stocks elegant
footwear for men and women—from Bruno Magli, Bally, and Sonia Rykiel, as
well as the store’s own collection—but prices are accordingly steep. 66 Bloor St. W.
David’s
& 416/920-1000. Subway: Bay.
Mephisto These shoes are made for walking—particularly because they’re
made from all natural materials. Devotees of this shop, now in its third decade,
swear that it’s impossible to wear out Mephisto footwear. 1177 Yonge St. & 416/9687026. Subway: Summerhill.
For especially tiny tootsies, check out this elegant shop. Petit
Pied carries children’s shoes for newborns to adolescents. Many of the brands are
European, including Minibel and Elefanten, but there are also sporty designs
from Nike and Reebok. 890 Yonge St. & 416/963-5925. Subway: Rosedale.
Petit Pied
TOYS
George’s Trains Everything the young (or young at heart) could want to
spruce up a model train set is here, including tracks, stations, and scenic backdrops. There are wooden trains as well as train kits. 510 Mount Pleasant Rd. & 416/
489-9783. www.georgestrains.com. Subway: Davisville, then no. 11 or 28 bus to Mount Pleasant,
and walk 1 block north.
Just Bears The name tells you all you need to know about this upscale shop.
Anything that isn’t a teddy has a bear motif. 29 Bellair St. & 416/928-5963. Subway: Bay.
Kidding Awound Finds Wind-up gadgets are the specialty here—there are
hundreds to choose from. There are also some antique toys (which you won’t let
the kids near) and gag gifts. 91 Cumberland St. & 416/926-8996. Subway: Bay.
The Little Dollhouse Company
This toy store isn’t really for kids. It’s
beloved by adults in search of miniature tea services and wicker furniture. It also
sells nine different dollhouse kits, from a stately Victorian mansion to a ranch
bungalow. 612 Mt. Pleasant Rd. & 416/489-7180. www.littledollhousecompany.com. Subway:
Eglinton, then no. 34 bus east to Mount Pleasant, and walk 2 blocks south.
Kids and adults alike will love this tiny store filled with
games, puzzles, models, kits, and books—all related to science. Whether your
interest is astronomy, biology, chemistry, archaeology, or physics, you’ll find
something here. Holt Renfrew Centre, 50 Bloor St. W. & 416/968-2627. Subway: Yonge/Bloor.
Top Banana Fun for kids—and their parents. The toys range from Thomas
the Tank Engine to Stomp Rockets. There are also games and books galore.
Science City
639 Mount Pleasant Rd. & 416/440-0111. Subway: Eglinton, then no. 34 bus east to Mount
Pleasant, and walk 2 blocks south.
194
The Toy Shop This double-decker shop carries toys, many of them educational, from around the world. It also stocks a good selection of books, games,
and videos. 62 Cumberland St. & 416/961-4870. Subway: Bay.
TRAVEL GOODS
Tilley Endurables Value The Tilley hat may not be Canada’s greatest style
moment, but it certainly is one of the most recognizable. The hats, belts, socks,
and other travel gear are all well made, and they really will endure. Note that Tilley
has branched out into travel underwear (they admit that “sexy they may not be,”
but claim that two sets of their underclothes will get you around the world—now
I’m curious). Queens Quay, 207 Queens Quay W. & 416/203-0463. www.tilley.com. Subway:
Union, then LRT to Queens Quay.
If an item is made in travel size, The Travel Stop stocks
Finds
it. Offerings include steamers and hair dryers, travel guides, and luggage. There’s
also a travel agency at the back of the store. 130 Cumberland St. & 416/961-6088.
The Travel Stop
www.thetravelstop.com. Subway: Bay.
VINTAGE CLOTHING
Asylum Secondhand jeans and vintage dresses line the racks in this Kensington Market stalwart. Bargains turn up in odd places, like the Anne Klein scarf
at the bottom of a C$1 (US70¢) bin. There’s also an assortment of toys and
candy. 42 Kensington Ave. & 416/595-7199. Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Baldwin St.
Brava
This shop is a favorite among local stylists, who pick up everything
from cashmere sweaters to evening wraps for ladies, and printed shirts to golf
pants for gents. 483 Queen St. W. & 416/504-8742. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west
to Spadina.
With its mix of vintage clothing and new silver
Value
jewelry, Courage is a Kensington Market favorite. Dresses run from ’50s velvet
numbers to ’70s polyester, and almost everything costs less than C$25 (US$18).
There’s also a good selection of tweedy jackets and starchy white shirts. The owners’ cat makes an occasional furtive appearance. 14 Kensington Ave. & 416/979-1992.
Courage My Love
Subway: Spadina, then LRT to Dundas St. W.
Divine Decadence Finds Owner Carmelita Blondet has a unique line on vintage
clothes: She imports them from her native Peru. Chic Peruvians had previously
brought these glad rags in from Europe, so it’s not unusual to find great French
couture. The price tags are uniformly high, but so is the quality. 136 Cumberland St.
& 416/324-9759. Subway: Bay.
Ex-Toggery This is a consignment shop with outlets around the city. Items
don’t last long, particularly because the price drops every week. Scour the racks
for designer names like Versace and Donna Karan. There are also a variety of vintage items on display, from clothing to accessories. 115 Merton St. & 416/488-5393.
www.extoggery.com. Subway: Davisville.
The Paper Bag Princess Finds Toronto isn’t known as Hollywood North for
nothing. L.A. has had a Paper Bag Princess boutique for several years, but only
recently did its owner, Toronto native Elizabeth Mason, decide to open up a location in her hometown. This store is a treasure trove, and its boudoir-like setting
makes it a sexy place to shop. The mint-condition Chanel and Pucci outfits cost
a bundle, but what else would you expect? 287 Davenport Rd. & 416/925-2603. www.
paperbagprincess.com. Subway: Bay.
195
This isn’t a traditional vintage store, because the classic clothes
here have been repurposed. The pieces really are one-of-a-kind: The shop’s owners breathe new life into cast-off jeans and T-shirts by adding unique details like
vintage lace. The roster of celeb fans includes Alanis Morissette. 613 Queen St. W.
Preloved
& 416/504-8704. Subway: Osgoode, then streetcar west to Bathurst.
WINE
In Ontario, Liquor Control Board of Ontario (LCBO) outlets and small boutiques at upscale grocery stores sell wine; no alcohol is sold at convenience stores.
The best deals are on locally produced wines—especially the ice wine, a sweet
dessert wine that has won awards the world over. There are LCBO outlets all
over the city, and prices are the same at all of them. The loveliest shop is at the
Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. (& 416/925-5266). Other locations are at
20 Bloor St. E. (& 416/368-0521); the Eaton Centre (& 416/979-9978); and
Union Station (& 416/925-9644). See www.lcbo.com for information about
products and special in-store events.
Vintages stores have a different name, but they’re still LCBO outlets. Check
out the one at Hazelton Lanes (& 416/924-9463) and at Queens Quay
(& 416/864-6777).
9
Toronto After Dark
T
oronto may not have a reputation
for being a city that never sleeps, but it
does have a vital and varied nightlife
scene. It’s a mecca for top-notch
theater—you can sometimes see
Broadway shows before they reach
Broadway. The Toronto Symphony
Orchestra is world renowned, and the
city’s many dance and music venues
host the crème de la crème of international performers. Some of the best
entertainment is in Toronto’s comedy
clubs, which have served as training
grounds for stars such as Jim Carrey,
Mike Myers, Dan Aykroyd, and John
Candy.
The nightclub scene moves at a frenetic pace. Martini bars are perennially popular, though lower-key pool
bars are in vogue, too.
MAKING PLANS For listings of
local performances and events, check
out Where Toronto and Toronto Life
(www.torontolife.com), as well as The
Globe & Mail (www.globeandmail.
com), the Toronto Star (www.thestar.
com), and the National Post (www.
nationalpost.com). For up-to-theminute lists of hot-ticket events, check
out the free weeklies Now and Eye,
available around town in newspaper
boxes, and at bars, cafes, and bookstores. The city website www.toronto.
com also boasts lengthy lists of performances. Events of particular interest
to the gay and lesbian community are
listed in Xtra! (www.xtra.ca), another
free weekly available in newspaper
boxes and many bookstores.
GETTING TICKETS For almost
any theater, music, or dance event, you
can buy tickets from Ticketmaster
(& 416/870-8000; www.ticketmaster.
ca). There’s a service charge on every
ticket (not just every order) sold over
the phone. To avoid the charge, head to
a ticket center. They’re scattered
throughout the city; call the information line for the lengthy list of locations.
1 The Performing Arts
Toronto’s arts scene offers something for everyone year-round. The city’s arts
institutions are widely renowned, and many top-notch international performers
pass through town.
THEATER
While it may seem that Toronto favors big-budget musicals—The Lion King and
The Phantom of the Opera both made a big splash here—there are many excellent smaller companies, too. Many of the smaller troupes have no permanent
performance space, so they move from venue to venue.
The best time to capture the flavor of Toronto’s theater life is during the
Fringe Festival (& 416/534-5919; [email protected]), usually held for 10
days starting in early July. In July and August, try to catch the Dream in High
Park (& 416/368-3110). It mounts stunning productions of Shakespearean or
Canadian plays from the CanStage company in an outdoor setting.
THE PERFORMING ARTS
197
L A N D M A R K T H E AT E R S & P E R F O R M A N C E V E N U E S
The year 2003 was an exciting one for the
The Distillery Historic District
arts community in Toronto. Several performance venues opened up, including
the Carlu (p. 203), the Yonge-Dundas Square (p. 203), and the Distillery Historic District. This was once the home of the Gooderham-Worts Distillery, which
was Canada’s largest distilling company in the 19th century. Now a historic
district that houses three performing arts venues, the complex is an outstanding
example of industrial design from the Victorian age. The Dancemakers and the
Native Earth troupes now perform here. 55 Mill St. & 416/367-1800. www.thedistillery
district.com. Tickets C$15–$40 (US$10.50–$28). Subway: King.
These landmark theaters
first opened their doors in 1913, and today they vie with the Royal Alex and the
Princess of Wales Theatre for major shows and attention. Recent productions
have included The Full Monty. Both book concerts and opera performances, and
are favorite venues of the Toronto International Film Festival.
Both the Elgin and the Winter Garden have been restored to their original
gilded glory at a cost of C$29 million (US$20 million). They are the only double-decker theaters in Toronto. The downstairs Elgin is larger, seating 1,500 and
featuring a lavish domed ceiling and gilded decoration on the boxes and proscenium. Hand-painted frescoes adorn the striking interior of the 1,000-seat Winter Garden. Suspended from its ceiling and lit with lanterns are more than 5,000
branches of beech leaves, which have been preserved, painted, and fireproofed.
Both theaters offer everything from Broadway musicals and dramas to concerts
and opera performances. 189 Yonge St. & 416/872-5555 for tickets, 416/314-2901 for tour
The Elgin and Winter Garden Theatre Centre
info. Tickets C$20–$85 (US$14–$60). Subway: Queen.
Pantages Theatre The Pantages is one of the theaters adversely affected by
the collapse of the Livent production company; at the moment, the space is virtually empty. Livent had restored the glorious, glamorous building, which opened
in 1920, to the tune of C$18 million (US$13 million). Originally a silent film
house and vaudeville theater, the 2,250-seat Pantages was resurrected as a home
for the splashy Andrew Lloyd Webber show The Phantom of the Opera; more
recently, shows such as Fosse have played here. 244 Victoria St. & 416/872-2222.
Tickets C$51–$92.50 (US$35–$65). Subway: Dundas.
Princess of Wales Theatre This spectacular 2,000-seat state-of-the-art facility
was built for the production of Miss Saigon, with a stage large enough to accommodate the landing of the helicopter in that production. More recently it was
home to The Lion King. Frank Stella, who painted 10,000 square feet of colorful
murals, decorated the exterior and interior walls. People in wheelchairs have access
to all levels of the theater (not the norm in Toronto). 300 King St. W. & 416/872-1212.
www.onstagenow.com. Tickets C$21–$116 (US$14–$80). Subway: St. Andrew.
Value Discount Tickets
Want to take in a show, but don’t want to spend a bundle on it? Drop by
the T.O. Tix booth
(& 416/536-6468, ext. 40), which sells half-price dayof-performance tickets. The booth is currently located in the Yonge-Dundas
Square, which is just across the street from the Eaton Centre. T.O. Tix accepts
cash, Visa and MasterCard, and all sales are final. The booth is open Tuesday
through Saturday from noon to 7:30pm; it’s closed Sunday and Monday
(tickets for performances on those days are sold on Sat).
Downtown After Dark
198
College
1
N
St.
0
0.25 km
2
Baldwin St.
West
6
Richmond
13
14
West
St.
St.
10
West
West
THEATRE DISTRICT
11
12
17
King St. West
19
18
Ave.
16
Portland St.
St.
Adelaide
St.
St.
Queen
9
8
7
5
Peter
4
3
GRANGE
PARK
Augusta
Ave.
ALEXANDRA
PARK
St.
20
John St.
Dundas
CHINATOWN
D’Arcy St.
Beverley St.
St. Andrews
St.
Spadina Ave.
Bathurst
Augusta
Kensington Pl.
Kensington Ave.
Nassau St.
Ave.
St.
Oxford St.
15
21
22 23
Spadina
Bathurst
Wellington St. West
Front St. West
Peter St.
Esplanade West
SkyDome
The
To Ontario Place
CLUBS, MUSIC & BARS
Afterlife 27
Al Frisco’s 12
Amsterdam 14
BamBoo 10
Bar 501 44
The Barn/The Stables 40
Bauhaus 23
The Bishop Belcher 11
Byzantium 41
Cameron House 7
C’est What? 56
Churchill’s Cigar & Wine Bar 29
Consort Bar 54
Crews/Tango 45
Crocodile Rock 28
Easy & the Fifth 25
El Mocambo 2
Horseshoe Tavern 8
Kit Kat Bar 19
Laugh Resort 17
Left Bank 6
Library Bar 36
1/4 mi
0
PERFORMING ARTS
Air Canada Centre 34
Buddies in Bad Times Theatre 38
CanStage 60
Carlu 37
Cinematheque Ontario 3
The Distillery Historic District 61
The Elgin and Winter Garden
Theatre Centre 52
Factory Theatre 13
Glenn Gould Studio 33
Hummingbird Centre
for the Performing Arts 55
La Cage Dinner Theatre 50
Lorraine Kimsa Theatre
for Young People 58
Massey Hall 53
Pantages Theatre 51
Premiere Dance Theatre 35
Princess of Wales Theatre 30
Roy Thomson Hall 32
Royal Alexandra Theatre 31
St. James’s Cathedral 57
The St. Lawrence Centre
for the Arts 55
St. Patrick’s Church 24
Theatre Pass Muraille 4
Yonge-Dundas Square 48
Gardiner Expressway
Slack Alice
46West
Milano 18
Queen’s
Quay
Sneaky Dee’s 1
Mint et Menthe 16
Top O’ the Senator 49
Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club 59
Vineyards Wine Bar & Bistro 20
NASA 5 Bathurst
Maple Leaf Quays
Quay Theatre 47 SpadinaWayne Gretzky’s
22
Phoenix Concert
Quay
Wheat Sheaf Tavern 15
The Rivoli 9
Woody’s 43
Sailor 42
Yuk Yuk’s Supper Club 26
Second City 21
College
37
COLLEGE
Carlton St.
Bay
St.
West
Gerrard
ALLAN
GARDENS
St.
East
55
Esplanade West
t St.
Fron
St.
St.
Sherbourne
St.
Jarvis St.
Sherbourne
57
59
King St. East
East
56
58
60
61
The Esplanade
York
East
shore Blvd.
Lake
s Quay
East
35
Church
TTC Subway
401
TORONTO
427
Post Office
Lake Ontario
HARBOURFRONT PARK
York Quay
Lombard
St.
St.
East
St. East
Church St.
OLD
TOWN
Queen
John
Quay
Jarvis
Church
Victoria St.
54
36
UNION
34
KING
Wellington St. East
Union Station
CN
Tower
St.
Scotia
Plaza
St.
MOSS
PARK
Adelaide St. East
Yonge St.
Convention
Centre
Queen
Richmond
First
Canadian
Place
Royal
Bank
Plaza
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Temperance St.
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Market St.
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OSGOODE
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DUNDAS
Sheppard St.
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University Ave.
McCaul St.
St. Patrick St.
ST. PATRICK
Edward
Scott St.
Chestnut
24
Yonge
Bus
Terminal
Elm St.
St.
St.
St.
Gerrard
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C H A P T E R 9 . TO R O N TO A F T E R DA R K
Tips Farther Afield
Don’t forget that two major theater festivals—the Shaw Festival in Niagaraon-the-Lake and the Stratford Festival in Stratford—are only an hour or two
away. See chapter 10 for details.
Royal Alexandra Theatre
When shows from Broadway migrate north,
they usually head for the Royal Alex. Subscription buyers often snap up tickets,
so your best bet is to call or order tickets online ahead of time. Recent shows
here have included Mamma Mia!, the ABBA-inspired musical.
The 1,495-seat Royal Alex is a magnificent spectacle. Constructed in 1907, it
owes its current health to discount-store czar and impresario Ed Mirvish, who
refurbished it (as well as the surrounding area) in the 1960s. Inside, it’s a riot of
plush reds, gold brocade, and baroque ornamentation. Avoid the second balcony
and the seats “under the circle,” which don’t have the greatest sight lines. 260 King
St. W. & 800/461-3333 for tickets, or 416/872-1212. www.onstagenow.com. Tickets C$26–$94
(US$18–$66). Subway: St. Andrew.
The St. Lawrence Centre for the Arts For 3 decades, the St. Lawrence Centre has presented top-notch theater, music, and dance performances. The Bluma
Appel Theatre is home to the CanStage company, and the smaller Jane Mallet
Theatre features the Toronto Operetta Theatre Company, among others. This is
a popular spot for lectures, too. 27 Front St. E. & 800/708-6754 or 416/366-7723. www.
stlc.com. Tickets C$20–$70 (US$14–$49). Mon night pay what you can. Senior and student discounts may be available 30 min. before performance. Subway: Union.
Toronto Centre for the Arts Built in 1993, this gigantic complex is home to
the North York Symphony and the Amadeus Choir. It contains several performance venues. The 1,850-seat Apotex Theatre has featured award-winning musicals
such as Sunset Boulevard and Ragtime; the 1,025-seat George Weston Recital Hall
books music events. There are a 250-seat studio theater and an art gallery. Since
the collapse of theater giant Livent, the Toronto Centre (formerly the Ford Centre for the Performing Arts) has been sadly underused. 5040 Yonge St. & 416/7339388. www.tocentre.com. Tickets C$15–$75 (US$10–$53). Subway: North York Centre.
T H E AT E R C O M PA N I E S & S M A L L E R T H E AT E R S
Buddies in Bad Times Theatre Established in 1979, this gay, or queer (as the
company prefers to be called), theater company produces radical new Canadian
works that celebrate difference, and blur, as well as reinvent, the boundaries
between gay and straight, gay and lesbian, male and female. American Sky Gilbert
has built its cutting-edge reputation. 12 Alexander St. & 416/975-8555. www.buddies
inbadtimestheatre.com. Tickets C$12–$25 (US$8–$18). Subway: Wellesley.
The CanStage company performs an eclectic variety of Canadian and international plays. Recent productions include The Shape of Things by
Neil LaBute and the late Pulitzer Prize–winning author Carol Shield’s Larry’s
Party. They perform at the St. Lawrence Centre, seating 500 to 600, and the
Berkeley Theatre, a more avant-garde, intimate space.
CanStage also presents open-air summer theater—traditionally Shakespeare—
in High Park. It’s known as the Dream in High Park. The company plans to focus
more on Canadian-written works in the near future. Berkeley Theatre, 26 Berkeley St.,
CanStage
and St. Lawrence Centre, 27 Front St. E. & 416/368-3110. www.canstage.com. Tickets C$20–$69
After Dark from Chinatown to Bloor Street
ST. GEORGE
15
SPADINA
Robert St.
Baldwin St.
D’ Arcy St.
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1/10 mile
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100 meters
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401
TORONTO
427
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Cecil St.
Spadina Ave.
Dundas St. W.
Augusta Ave.
8
0
UNIVERSITY
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TORONTO
Huron St.
College St.
Bar Italia 3
The Brunswick House 13
Cafe Diplomatico 4
Cinematheque Ontario 20
The Corner Pocket 7
El Convento Rico 1
El Mocambo
(Tequila Lounge) 10
Insomnia 9
La Serre at
the Four Seasons 18
Lee’s Palace 12
dina
QUEEN’S
QUEEN
PARK
Queen’s Park Cr.West
Spa
Major St.
Brunswick Ave.
Borden St.
Lippencott St.
Bathurst St.
Blvd.
Palmerston
Markham St.
Manning Ave.
7
Belleview Ave.
Claremont St.
6
Bellwoods Ave.
Beatrice St.
Gorevale Ave.
Willcocks St.
4
3
5
Palmerston Ave.
2
Euclid Ave.
Grace St.
1
Ulster St.
MUSEUM
Hoskin Ave.
Cr.
Clinton St.
Harbord St.
St. George St.
Herrick St.
Spadina Ave.
Jersey Ave.
Lennox St.
Sussex St.
17 18
16
Murray St.
Simcoe St.
14
St. Patrick St.
13
Devonshir
Pl.
CHRISTIE
12
McCaul St.
9 10
Henry St.
BATHURST
Bloor St. W.
Prince Arthur Ave.
11
University Ave.
ST. PATRICK
Madison 15
The Roof at Park Hyatt 17
Royal Conservatory
of Music 16
Sneaky Dee’s 8
Sottovoce 6
Souz Dal 2
St. Patrick’s Church 19
Tarragon Theatre 11
Trinity-St. Paul’s Church 14
Wild Indigo 5
(US$14–$48). Mon night pay what you can. Senior and student discounts may be available 30 min.
before performance. Subway: Union for St. Lawrence Centre. King, then any streetcar east to Berkeley St. for Berkeley Theatre.
Factory Theatre Since it opened in 1970, the Factory Theatre has focused on
presenting Canadian plays, from political dramas to over-the-top comedies.
Performances showcase up-and-coming scribes as well as established playwrights.
George F. Walker started his career at the Factory, and the clown duo, Mump and
Smoot, appears occasionally. 125 Bathurst St. & 416/504-9971. www.factorytheatre.ca.
Tickets C$10–$30 (US$7–$21). Subway: St. Andrew, then any streetcar west.
Lorraine Kimsa Theatre for Young People
Toronto’s such a theater
town that even tiny tots (and the rest of the family) get their own performance
center. The always-enjoyable Lorraine Kimsa Theatre (formerly known as the
Young Peoples Theatre) mounts whimsical productions such as Jacob Two-Two’s
First Spy Case (a musical by the late Mordecai Richler), and children’s classics
202
such as Pinocchio and The Miracle Worker. The theater company is committed to
diversity in its programming and in its artists. 165 Front St. E. & 416/862-2222. www.
lktyp.ca. Tickets C$14–$28 (US$10–$20). Subway: Union.
Native Earth Performing Arts Theatre This small company is dedicated
to performing works that express and dramatize the native Canadian experience.
Playwright Thomson Highway, who authored Dry Lips Oughta Move to
Kapuskasing, was one of the company’s founders. Performing at the Case Goods Theatre
in the Distillery Historic District, 55 Mill Street.
C$10–$25 (US$7–$18).
& 416/367-1800. www.nativeearth.ca. Tickets
The Tarragon Theatre opened in 1971. It produces
original works by such famous Canadian literary figures as Michel Tremblay,
Michael Ondaatje, and Judith Thompson, and an occasional classic or offBroadway play. It’s a small, intimate theater. 30 Bridgman Ave. (near Dupont and
Tarragon Theatre
Bathurst sts.). & 416/531-1827, or 416/536-5018 for administration. www.tarragontheatre.com.
Tickets C$15–$30 (US$11–$21). Sun pay what you can. Subway: Bathurst.
Theatre Passe Muraille This theater started in the late 1960s, when a pool
of actors began experimenting and improvising original Canadian material. It
continues to produce innovative, provocative theater by such contemporary
Canadian playwrights as John Mighton, Daniel David Moses, and Wajdi
Mouawad. There are two stages—the Mainspace seats 220, the more intimate
Backspace, 70. 16 Ryerson Ave. & 416/504-7529. www.passemuraille.on.ca. Tickets C$14–
$28 (US$10–$20) Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Bathurst.
The Toronto Truck Theatre is the home of Agatha
Christie’s The Mousetrap, now in its 28th year. It’s Canada’s longest-running
show—and it shows no signs of losing steam. 94 Belmont St. & 416/922-0084. TickToronto Truck Theatre
ets C$15–$25 (US$11–$18). Subway: Rosedale.
D I N N E R T H E AT E R
Famous People Players Dinner Theatre
This group mounts unique,
visually fantastic “black light” shows. Famous People Players is renowned not
just for the quality of its shows, but also for bringing out the creative potential
in disabled performers. The price of the show includes a four-course dinner and
backstage tour. 110 Sudbury St. & 888/453-3385 or 416/532-1137. www.fpp.org. Dinner and
show C$40 (US$28) adults, seniors and children 13 and over, C$27 (US$19) children 12 and under.
Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Dovercourt.
For the best in campy impersonations, head to La
Cage. Buddy Holly, Roy Orbison, and Elvis may never have performed together,
but their mimics get along famously here. 278 Yonge St. & 416/364-5200. Dinner and
La Cage Dinner Theatre
show C$39–$44 (US$27–$31); show only C$24–$28 (US$16–$20). Subway: Dundas.
Medieval Times Dinner & Tournament Milord and Milady welcome you
to their castle, where you’ll be brought a cutlery-free meal by “serving wenches,”
view knights on horseback, and witness medieval games in the company of 1,000
of your closest friends. Adults may have trouble getting into the spirit of things,
but it’s always a hit with kids. Exhibition Place. & 416/260-1234. www.medievaltimes.
com. Tickets C$57 (US$40) adults, C$39 (US$27) children 12 and under. Subway: Bathurst, then
Bathurst streetcar south to Exhibition Place (last stop).
Mysteriously Yours After 12 years at the Royal York, the show has gone
uptown. The action at this interactive whodunit gets under way around dessert
time. Actors are scattered at tables around the room, and guests try to solve the
THE PERFORMING ARTS
crime with the aid of a detective who leads the investigation.
203
2026 Yonge St.
& 800-668-3323 or 416/486-7469. www.mysteriouslyyours.com. Dinner and show C$48–$75
(US$33–$51); show only C$35–$45 (US$24–$31). Subway: Davisville.
MAJOR CONCERT HALLS & AUDITORIUMS
In addition to the Elgin and Winter Garden Theatres, the Toronto Centre for the
Arts, and the St. Lawrence Centre, these are the city’s top performance venues.
The Carlu
Toronto welcomed the return of the Carlu in 2003. Located on the
seventh floor of College Park, it was considered one of the grandest concert halls in
Canada when it opened in 1931; like so many other venues in Toronto, the Carlu
was shuttered in the 1970s. Now the 1,200-seat concert hall is back in favor, and
its architecture is believed to be one of the best surviving examples of Art Moderne
in the world. At press time no details of upcoming concerts were available, but
check the website for information. College Park, 444 Yonge St., 7th Floor. & 416/410-8727.
www.thecarlu.com. Ticket information not available at press time. Subway: College.
This 340-seat radio concert hall offers chamber, jazz,
and spoken-word performances. Its name celebrates the great, eccentric Toronto
pianist whose life was cut short by a stroke in 1982. 250 Front St. W. & 416/205Glenn Gould Studio
5555. www.glenngouldstudio.cbc.ca. Tickets C$20–$75 (US$14–$51). Subway: Union.
Hummingbird Centre for the Performing Arts If you visited Toronto
before 1997, you might remember this as the O’Keefe Centre. It became famous
in 1974 when Mikhail Baryshnikov defected after performing here. Since then,
Hummingbird Communications has invested in renovations and refurbishing.
This 3,223-seat center is still the home of the National Ballet of Canada; the
Canadian Opera Company also performs here, though it has been trying to find
another home. 1 Front St. E. & 416/872-2262. www.hummingbirdcentre.com. Tickets C$40–
$125 (US$28–$88). Subway: Union.
This landmark building is one of Canada’s premier music venues. The 2,800 seats aren’t the most comfortable, but the flawless acoustics will
make you stop squirming. The music performances run from classical to pop to
rock to jazz, with recent stops by the likes of Diana Krall, Jewel, Prince, and
Pink. This is also a popular stop for lectures. 178 Victoria St. & 416/593-4822. www.
Massey Hall
masseyhall.com. Tickets C$25–$100 (US$18–$70). Subway: King.
Premiere Dance Theatre This hall, specifically designed for dance perform-
ances, is where you can catch Toronto’s leading contemporary dance companies.
Toronto Dance Theatre and the Danny Grossman Dance Company perform
here. Queen’s Quay Terminal, 207 Queens Quay W. & 416/973-4000. www.harbourfront.on.ca.
Tickets C$30–$95 (US$20–$65). Subway: Union, then LRT to York Quay.
Roy Thomson Hall
This stunning concert hall is home to the Toronto Symphony Orchestra, which performs here from September to June, and to the Toronto
Mendelssohn Choir. Since it opened in 1982, it has also played host to an array of
international musical artists, including Cecilia Bartoli, Ray Charles, Ravi Shankar,
and Aretha Franklin. The hall was designed to give the audience a feeling of unusual
intimacy with the performers—none of the 2,812 seats is more than 33m (107 ft.)
from the stage. The hall closed for 5 months in 2002 for an extensive acoustic
enhancement project that also increased the size of the stage. 60 Simcoe St. & 416/5934822. www.roythomson.com. Tickets C$25–$120 (US$18–$84). Subway: St. Andrew.
Yonge-Dundas Square I’m not sure what to say about this new outdoor
concert venue, located across the street from the Eaton Centre. Aside from a
204
splashy opening concert that drew 55,000 people in May 2003, little has happened here at the time of this writing. The plan is to host concerts and other
interesting events in the Square, but at the moment the only reason to go there
is the T.O. Tix discount tickets booth. Yonge & Dundas, southeast corner. & 416/
979-9960. www.ydsquare.ca. Subway: Dundas.
CLASSICAL MUSIC & OPERA
In addition to the major musical venues mentioned above, visitors can check to
see what’s playing at churches around town. Possibilities include Trinity-St.
Paul’s Church, 427 Bloor St. W. (& 416/964-6337), the home of the Toronto
Consort, performers of early music; St. Patrick’s Church, Dundas and McCaul
streets (& 416/483-0559); and St. James’ Cathedral, King Street East and
Jarvis Street, where the Orpheus Choir sings. The University of Toronto
(& 416/978-3744 for the box office) offers a full range of instrumental and
choral concerts and recitals in Walter Hall and the Macmillan Theatre. It’s also
worth checking out who’s performing at the Royal Conservatory of Music,
273 Bloor St. W. (& 416/408-2825).
If you’re a fan of new music, look out for the Sonic Boom concert series
(& 416/944-3100), which produces new opera and other contemporary music.
Canadian Opera Company Canada’s largest opera company, the sixth largest
in North America, was founded in 1950. At the moment, it is staging its productions at the Hummingbird Centre from September to April, but an opera house is
in the works, so the company will have a new home soon. Recent productions
include Salome and Boris Godunov. 227 Front St. E. & 416/872-2262 or 416/363-6671.
www.coc.ca. Tickets C$38–$135 (US$27–$95). Subway: Union.
Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra
This internationally acclaimed group
plays baroque compositions by the likes of Handel, Bach, and Mozart on authentic period instruments. Visiting musicians frequently join the 19 permanent performers. It gives a series of concerts at Trinity/St. Paul’s United Church, 47 Bloor
St. W., and stages other performances in Massey Hall and the Toronto Centre for
the Arts (p. 200). 427 Bloor St. W. & 416/964-6337. www.tafelmusik.org. Tickets C$20–$55
(US$14–$37). Subway: Yonge/Bloor for Trinity/St. Paul’s; King for Massey Hall; North York Centre for
Toronto Centre for the Arts.
This world-renowned group first performed in Massey Hall in 1895; it now calls Roy Thomson Hall home. Its repertoire ranges from Verdi’s Requiem, Bach’s St. Matthew Passion, and Handel’s
Messiah to the soundtrack of Schindler’s List. 60 Simcoe St. & 416/598-0422. www.
Toronto Mendelssohn Choir
tmchoir.org. Tickets C$25–$50 (US$18–$35). Subway: St. Andrew.
Toronto Symphony Orchestra The symphony performs at Roy Thomson
Hall from September to June. Its repertoire ranges from classics to jazzy Broadway tunes to new Canadian works. In June and July, the symphony puts on free
concerts at outdoor venues throughout the city. 60 Simcoe St. & 416/593-4828. www.
tso.on.ca. Tickets C$15–$75 (US$11–$53). Subway: St. Andrew.
POP & ROCK MUSIC VENUES
Everyone comes to Toronto—even Madonna, who ran into some trouble with
the obscenity police a while back. Tickets are available through Ticketmaster
(& 416/870-8000). In addition to the previously mentioned Hummingbird
Centre and Massey Hall, these are the major pop and rock music venues.
Air Canada Centre Better known as a sports venue (it’s home to the Maple
Leafs and the Raptors), the Air Canada Centre also hosts popular musical acts.
THE PERFORMING ARTS
205
Neil Young has performed here, as have Ozzy Osbourne, Justin Timberlake, and
Mariah Carey. 40 Bay St. (at Lakeshore Blvd). & 416/815-5500. www.theaircanadacentre.
com. Subway: Union, then LRT to Queens Quay.
Kingswood Music Theatre From May to September, Kingswood’s open-air
theater plays host to diverse, top-notch talent. Don Henley, the Beach Boys, the
Scorpions, Barry Manilow, and Public Enemy have all played here. The bandshell
is covered, but the lawn seats aren’t—so beware in bad weather. Paramount Canada’s
Wonderland, 9580 Jane St., Vaughn. & 905/832-8131. Subway: Yorkdale or York Mills, then GO
Express Bus to Wonderland. By car: Take Yonge St. north to Hwy. 401 and go west to Hwy. 400. Go
north on Hwy. 400 to Rutherford Rd. exit and follow signs. From the north, exit at Major Mackenzie.
Maple Leaf Gardens The good old Gardens just haven’t been the same since
the Leafs left. Nonetheless, this is a popular site for rock concerts. Don’t expect
cushy seats, but the sight lines are generally good. The exceptions are gray seats
and green seats that bracket the stage (sections 94–97 and 76–77); avoid these
if you care about seeing the show. 60 Carlton St. & 416/977-1641. Subway: College.
Molson Amphitheatre
This is a favorite summer spot because you can
listen to music by the side of Lake Ontario. Most of the seating is on the lawn,
and it’s usually dirt-cheap. Ontario Place, 955 Lakeshore Blvd. W. & 416/314-9900.
Subway: Bathurst, then Bathurst streetcar south to Exhibition Place (last stop).
SkyDome The biggest venue in the city, SkyDome is where the biggest acts
usually play. Ticket prices frequently rise into the stratosphere. This venue is
about as intimate as a parking lot. If you’re seated in the 400 (Upper SkyBox) or
500 (SkyDeck) levels, you’ll be watching the show on the JumboTron, unless
you bring your binoculars. And remember to steer clear of the seats next to the
JumboTron, or you won’t see anything at all. 1 Blue Jays Way. & 416/341-3663. www.
skydome.com. Subway: Union.
DANCE
Dancemakers Artistic director Serge Bennathan’s nine-person company has
gained international recognition for its provocative mix of stylized physical
movement and theater. One of the best-known works in its repertoire is
Sable/Sand, which won a Dora Award for choreography. Performing at the Case Goods
Theatre in the Distillery Historic District, 55 Mill Street.
org. Tickets C$20–$35 (US$14–$24).
& 416/367-1800. www.dancemakers.
Danny Grossman Dance Company The choreography of this local dance
favorite is noted for its athleticism, theatricality, humor, and passionate social
vision. The company performs both new works and revivals of modern-dance
classics. Refreshing, fun, and exuberant. Performing at Premiere Dance Theatre, Queen’s
Quay Terminal, 207 Queens Quay W. & 416/973-4000. Office: 511 Bloor St. W. & 416/408-4543
or 416/531-5268. www.dgdance.org. Tickets C$22–$38 (US$15–$26).
National Ballet of Canada
Perhaps the most beloved and famous of
Toronto’s cultural icons is the National Ballet of Canada. English ballerina Celia
Franca launched the company in Toronto in 1951, and served as director, principal dancer, choreographer, and teacher. Over the years, the company has
achieved great renown.
The company performs at the Hummingbird Centre in the fall, winter, and
spring; tours internationally; and makes summer appearances before enormous
crowds at the open theater at Ontario Place. Its repertoire includes the classics
and works by Glen Tetley (Alice), Sir Frederick Ashton, and Jerome Robbins.
James Kudelka, who has created The Miraculous Mandarin, The Actress, and
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Spring Awakening, was appointed artist-in-residence in 1991. Performing at Hummingbird Centre for the Performing Arts, 1 Front St. E. (& 416/872-2262), and Ontario Place, 955
Lakeshore Blvd. W. Office: 157 King St. E. & 416/366-4846. www.national.ballet.ca. Tickets C$26–
$114 (US$18–$78).
Toronto Dance Theatre The city’s leading contemporary dance company
burst onto the scene in 1972, bringing an inventive spirit and original Canadian
dance to the stage. Director Christopher House joined in 1979 and has contributed more than 35 new works to the repertoire, including Severe Clear and
the critically acclaimed Nest. Performing at Premiere Dance Theatre, Queen’s Quay Terminal,
207 Queens Quay W. & 416/973-4000. Office: 80 Winchester St. www.tdt.org. Tickets C$17–$38
(US$12–$26).
2 The Club & Music Scene
COMEDY CLUBS
Toronto must be one heck of a funny place. That would explain why a disproportionate number of comedians, including Jim Carrey and Mike Myers, hail
from here. This is one true Toronto experience you shouldn’t miss.
The Laugh Resort If you get your kicks from incisive humor with occasional
dashes of social commentary, this is your place. Gilbert Gottfried, Paula Poundstone, Ray Romano, and George Wallace have performed here. Most of the acts are
stand-up solos, though there are sometimes inspired improvs, too. At the Holiday Inn
on King, 370 King St. W. & 416/364-5233. Tickets C$7–$18 (US$4.75–$12). Subway: St. Andrew.
While the Riv is well known for its music performances and
poetry readings, the Monday night ALT.COMedy Lounge is its biggest draw. It
features local and visiting stand-ups, and is best known as the place where the
Kids in the Hall got their start. Shows take place in the intimate 125-seat back
room. See p. 96 in chapter 5 for a restaurant review. 332 Queen St. W. & 416/597The Rivoli
0794. Pay what you can admission. Subway: Osgoode.
Second City
This was where Mike Myers, otherwise known as Austin
Powers, received his formal—and improvisational—comic training. Over the
years, the legendary Second City has nurtured the likes of John Candy, Dan
Aykroyd, Bill Murray, Martin Short, Andrea Martin, and Eugene Levy. It
continues to turn out talented young actors. The scenes are always funny and
topical, though the outrageous post-show improvs usually get the biggest belly
laughs. Next door is the Tim Simms Playhouse (& 416/343-0022), an intimate space that features fledgling local stand-up talent. 56 Blue Jays Way.
& 800/263-4485 or 416/343-0011. www.secondcity.com. Dinner and show from C$35 (US$24);
show only C$13–$25 (US$8.85–$17). Reservations required. Subway: St. Andrew.
Tips Good to Know: Nightlife
The drinking age in Ontario is 19, and most establishments enforce the
law. Expect long queues on Friday and Saturday after 10pm at clubs in the
downtown core. Bars and pubs that serve drinks only are open Monday
through Saturday from 11am to 2am. Establishments that also serve food
are open Sunday, too. If you’re out at closing time, you’ll find the subway
shut down, but special late-night buses run along Yonge and Bloor streets.
Major routes on streets such as College, Queen, and King operate all
night. To find out what’s on, see “Making Plans,” earlier in this chapter.
THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE
207
Yuk Yuk’s is Canada’s original home of stand-up comedy. Comic Mark Breslin founded the place in 1976, inspired by New York’s
Catch a Rising Star and Los Angeles’s Comedy Store. Some famous alumni
include Jim Carrey, Harland Williams, Howie Mandel, and Norm MacDonald.
Other headliners have included Jerry Seinfeld, Robin Williams, and Sandra
Bernhard. Monday is new talent night, and Tuesday is all improv. There’s
another Yuk Yuk’s in Mississauga, not far from Pearson International Airport
(& 905/434-4985). 224 Richmond St. W. & 416/967-6425. www.yukyuks.com. Dinner and
Yuk Yuk’s Superclub
show from C$25 (US$16); show only C$5–C$15 (US$3.40–$10). Subway: Osgoode.
COUNTRY, FOLK, ROCK & REGGAE
The BamBoo Colorful confusion reigns here. The granddaddy of Toronto’s
reggae scene, the ’Boo also books calypso, salsa, jazz, soul, and R&B. Tables set
for dinner surround the teensy dance floor, and the menu is as diverse as the
music. Pad Thai, barbecued burgers, and jerk chicken are top choices. Forget
quiet conversation, even if you score a seat on the rooftop patio—you’re here for
the music. 312 Queen St. W. & 416/593-5771 (staffed 10am–5pm). Cover C$5–$10 (US$3.40–
$6.80). Subway: Osgoode.
About as cozy as the basement of a historic warehouse can be,
this casual spot attracts young and old alike. It offers 28 draft beers and a broad
selection of single malts. Half pub and half performance space, C’est What? has
played host to the likes of Jewel, the Barenaked Ladies, and Rufus Wainwright
before they hit the big time. If the nightly acoustic music doesn’t suit, check out
the abundant board games. 67 Front St. E. & 416/867-9499. www.cestwhat.com. Cover
C’est What?
C$2–$10 (US$1.40–$7). Subway: Union.
This rock-and-roll institution was where the Rolling Stones
rocked in the ’70s, Elvis Costello jammed in the ’80s, and Liz Phair mesmerized
in the ’90s. It has played peek-a-boo in recent years—it regularly closes and
reopens. At the moment its usual Spadina Avenue digs have shut down, but the
head of El Mocambo Productions has declared that the El Mo’ is alive and well
at the Tequila Lounge. In other words . . . El Mocambo is dead. Long live El
Mocambo! At the Tequila Lounge, 794 Bathurst Ave. (at Bloor St. W.) & 416/536-0346. Cover
El Mocambo
C$5–$15 (US$3.40–$10). Subway: Bathurst.
The Horseshoe Tavern This old, traditional venue has showcased the
sounds of the decades: blues in the ’60s, punk in the ’70s, New Wave in the ’80s,
and everything from ska to rockabilly to Celtic to alternative rock in the ’90s.
It’s the place that launched Blue Rodeo, the Tragically Hip, the Band, and Prairie
Oyster, and staged the Toronto debuts of the Police and Hootie & the Blowfish.
It attracts a cross section of 20- to 40-year-olds. 368 Queen St. W. & 416/598-4753.
No cover; cover from C$10 (US$6.80) for special concerts. Subway: Osgoode.
Lee’s Palace Versailles this ain’t. Still, that hasn’t deterred the crème de la
crème of the alternative music scene. The Red Hot Chili Peppers, the Tragically
Hip, and Alanis have performed here. Despite the graffiti grunge, Lee’s does
boast the best sight lines in town. The audience is young and rarely tires of slam
dancing in the mosh pit in front of the stage. 529 Bloor St. W. & 416/532-1598. Cover
C$10 (US$7) or less. Subway: Bathurst.
Phoenix Concert Theatre One of the oldest dance halls in Toronto, the
Phoenix attracts an all-ages, all-races crowd that includes straights and gays. As
a rock venue, it showcases such artists as Screaming Headless Torsos and Patti
Smith. On the weekends, it gets the crowds dancing with a mixture of retro,
208
Impressions
Toronto is known as Toronto the Good, because of its alleged piety. My
guess is that there’s more polygamy in Toronto than Baghdad, only it’s
not called that in Toronto.
—Austin F. Cross, Cross Roads (1936)
Latin, alternative, and funk. Thursday is gay night. 410 Sherbourne St. & 416/3231251. Cover C$5–$15 (US$3.40–$10). Subway: College, then any streetcar east to Sherbourne St.
The Rivoli
Currently this is the club for an eclectic mix of performances,
including grunge, blues, rock, jazz, comedy, and poetry reading. Holly Cole
launched her career here, Tori Amos made her Toronto debut in the back room,
and the Kids in the Hall still consider it home (see “Comedy Clubs,” above).
Shows begin at 8pm and continue until 2am. People dance if they’re inspired.
Upstairs, there’s a billiards room and espresso bar. 332 Queen St. W. & 416/597-0794.
Cover C$5–$15 (US$3.40–$10). Subway: Osgoode.
JAZZ, RHYTHM & BLUES
In addition to the clubs listed below, the BamBoo (p. 207) also offers some of
the hottest jazz in town. Check out www.tojazz.com for the latest listings.
Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club
Here’s a great two-for-one deal. Top performers like Oscar Peterson (still performing after his stroke in 1993), Molly
Johnson, Ray McShann, and George Shearling perform in a small room lit by
rose-tinted lamps; the neighboring room (see p. 99 in chapter 5) is a Quebecois
eatery that features tourtière and smoked-meat sandwiches. 65 Sherbourne St.
& 416/363-0179. www.montrealbistro.com. Cover C$8–$20 (US$5.45–$14). Subway: King, then
any streetcar east to Sherbourne St.
This perennial favorite is a modern-day speakeasy. The
cramped space—it seats only 100—is below street level, and feels intimate
rather than claustrophobic. Live jazz, whether Dixieland, New Orleans, or
swing, belts out 6 nights a week. The epicenter for the swing dance craze in
Toronto, this is still the place to watch glam hepcats groove. 52 Wellington St. E.
Reservoir Lounge
& 416/955-0887. Cover C$5–$7 (US$3.40–$4.75). Subway: King.
Rex Jazz and Blues Bar This watering hole has been drawing jazz fans since
it first opened in 1951. Admittedly the decor hasn’t changed much since the old
days, but the sounds you’ll find here are cutting edge. The Rex lures top local
and international talent; Tuesday is the weekly jam night. 194 Queen St. W. & 416/
598-2475. Cover up to C$8 (US$5.60). Subway: Osgoode.
Southern Po Boys This new restaurant and club bills itself as the “Mardi
Gras of the North.” The menu is strictly rich Southern fare, and the sounds are
bluesy and soulful. 159 Augusta St. & 416/993-6768. Cover C$2–$5 (US$1.40–$3.50). Subway: Spadina, then LRT south to Dundas.
Upstairs from the Torch Bistro (see p. 97 in chapter 5)
and the Senator Diner, this is one of the classiest jazz joints in town. Top
performers, such as vocalist Molly Johnson and sax goddess Jane Bunnett, have
graced the long, narrow space. Leathery couches and banquettes add to the
lounge-lizard ambience. For those who still care, the third-floor humidor has
a premium collection of Cuban smokes. 249 Victoria St. & 416/364-7517. www.the
Top O’ the Senator
senator.com. Cover C$10–$20 (US$7–$14). Subway: Dundas.
THE CLUB & MUSIC SCENE
209
DANCE CLUBS
Dance clubs come and go at an alarming pace—the hottest spot can close or
turn into a decidedly unhip place almost overnight—so keep in mind that some
of the spots listed below may have disappeared or changed entirely by the time
you visit. Some things stay constant, though. One is that, with few exceptions,
everyone lines up to get into a club—so don’t get the idea that charming the
bouncer will get you in faster. Most clubs don’t have much of a dress code,
though “no jeans” rules are not uncommon. I have indicated what the current
scene looks like, but it will almost certainly change, so be sure to call ahead. The
club listings in the free weekly Now are consistently the best.
Several primarily gay and lesbian clubs attract a sizable hetero contingent; one
notable destination is El Convento Rico (p. 214).
Afterlife Formerly the Limelight, this is truly the club that won’t die. People
have been coming in from the suburbs forever to dance, play pool, and lounge,
and they show no signs of stopping. No jeans. 250 Adelaide St. W. & 416/593-6126.
Cover C$5–$10 (US$3.50–$7). Subway: St. Andrew.
Bauhaus The unfinished metal-and-rivet decor gives this space an industrial
feel. A young PVC-clad crowd dances to R&B and soul on the first floor, and
to house and hip-hop on the second. 31 Mercer St. & 416/977-9813. www.bauhaus
nightclub.com. Cover C$10–$15 (US$7–$10.50). Subway: St. Andrew.
Berlin As sophisticated and soigné as it tries to be—it has a smashing dining
room and Tuesday-night salsa lessons—Berlin is best known as an upscale meat
market. A perennial favorite in the Young and Eligible—oops, Yonge and Eglinton—neighborhood, the crowd is a little older (late 20s–mid 40s) than at most
of the downtown clubs. As the club’s cheesy but memorable ad goes, this
is where “man meets woman, not boy meets girl.” Consider yourself warned.
2335 Yonge St. & 416/489-7777. Cover C$10 (US$7). Subway: Eglinton.
This vast waterfront party is a complex that books live entertainers like James Brown, Blue Rodeo, and the Pointer Sisters. The dance club
boasts more than a dozen bars, the latest in lighting, and other party effects.
Thursday night is foam fun (that is, beer). There’s a restaurant and a full raft of
sports facilities, too. 11 Polson St. (off Cherry St.). & 416/461-DOCKS. Subway: Union, then
The Docks
taxi (about C$7/US$4.90) to Lakeshore Blvd. E. and Cherry St.
This is the place to come if you’re looking for a sophisticated crowd. The music is less frenzied, and you might even manage a conversation. The dance area is a loft-like space. In the back, there’s a cigar bar
furnished with Oriental rugs and comfortable armchairs, plus two pool tables.
The dress code in effect is “smart casual” (collared shirts, no jeans or caps).
Easy & the Fifth
225 Richmond St. W. & 416/979-3000. Cover C$10–$14 (US$7–$9.80). Subway: Osgoode.
It’s got a bar, pool tables, and a dance
floor—who could ask for anything more? When the 20- and 30-something
patrons tire of dancing to R&B and rock, they take refuge on one of the several
comfy couches in the bar. 355 King St. W. & 416/593-6996. No cover. Subway: St. Andrew.
NASA Space cadets, unite: house music plays in a “Jetsons”-like futuristic
space. The crowd here is too young to have seen 2001: A Space Odyssey the first
time around, but video screens offer glimpses. If you think a theme bar sounds
like fun, this is your place; if you’ve been there and done that, go elsewhere.
Indian Motorcycle Café and Lounge
609 Queen St. W. & 416/504-8356. Cover C$10 (US$7). Subway: Osgoode.
210
Pool tables and Mexican food complement alternative rock
spun by a DJ in the club upstairs until 1:30am. Downstairs, the bar is open until
3am on weekdays, 5am on weekends. 431 College St. & 416/603-3090. No cover. Sub-
Sneaky Dee’s
way: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
3 The Bar Scene
The current night scene encompasses a flock of attractive bistros with billiard
tables. You can enjoy cocktails, a reasonably priced meal, and a game of billiards
in comfortable, aesthetically pleasing surroundings. The cigar bar is still in
vogue, and most clubs have a humidor for the stogie set. Unlike dance clubs, the
bars and lounges in Toronto are a pretty stable bunch.
BARS & LOUNGES
Al Frisco’s This is one of the few Toronto bars with its own microbrewery.
Upstairs, people crowd around the pool tables or jam the dance floor, moving to
retro sounds. Downstairs, cozy fireplaces enhance the gathering-spot atmosphere.
The food is Mediterranean—pizza, pasta, salads, and antipasti. In summer, a mix
Cueing Up
It’s not hard to find a bar or a restaurant with a token pool table—it’s
a must-have accessory in some quarters—but real shark shops aren’t so
easy to come by. If you have a serious pool habit, try one of the following clubs.
Academy of Spherical Arts Okay, maybe this isn’t your typical pool
hall, but it has a great pedigree: The 5,000-sq.-ft. space used to house
billiard manufacturer Brunswick. Now it looks more like a turn-of-the20th-century gentlemen’s club (there are even a few antique pool
tables). This is a popular celebrity-sighting spot, and the likes of Kevin
Bacon, Minnie Driver, Dennis Hopper, and Lennox Lewis have been
known to drop by. (Because the Academy hosts private parties, always
call to make sure it’s open.) 38 Hanna St. & 416/532-2782. Subway: St. Andrew,
then streetcar west along King St. to Atlantic Ave. and walk 1 block south.
Bar Italia & Billiards Downstairs, a young, trendy, good-looking
crowd quaffs drinks or coffee and snacks on Italian sandwiches.
Upstairs, guys and gals gather ’round the six pool tables. This scene is
strictly for the flirtatious—serious game-players should go elsewhere.
582 College St. & 416/535-3621. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to
Clinton St.
Charlotte Room Billiards Digest has called the Charlotte Room one of
the 10 best billiard rooms in North America. It feels like an old-boys’
club. In addition to the 10 tables, there’s a pub-grub menu and, on
occasion, live jazz music. 19 Charlotte St. & 416/598-2882. Subway: St. Andrew.
The Corner Pocket Smack-dab in the middle of trendy Little Italy,
there’s the Corner Pocket. Unpretentious and low-key, the hall has 17
billiard tables (and one foosball table, in case you’re interested). The bigscreen television is always tuned to sports. 722 College St. & 416/928-3540.
Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Crawford St.
THE BAR SCENE
211
of tourists, suits, and casual professionals in their late 20s and beyond jams the
extra-large patio. 133 John St. & 416/595-8201. Subway: Osgoode.
Eau
As noted in the dining review in chapter 5, Eau is a stylish place. The
bar is in super-nova mode at the moment, and this is definitely a see-and-be-seen
spot. The cocktail menu is astonishingly overpriced for Toronto: One martini—
”the-big-eau,” which mixes vodka, champagne and ice wine—costs C$18
(US$13). Frankly, it wasn’t one of the better martinis I’ve had. 609 King St. W.
& 416/203-9399. Subway: St. Andrew.
Kit Kat Bar and Grill If you’re interested in something a little more sophisti-
cated than the usual bar scene, the Kit Kat is your place. The bar area is charmingly
old-fashioned, albeit a little cramped. The selection of cocktails and fine wines is
strictly for grownups. 297 King St. W. & 416/977-4461. Subway: St. Andrew.
Left Bank An over-25 crowd gathers in the lower-level bar at this restaurant.
It’s especially inviting in winter, when the fire warms folks playing billiards or
lolling on the comfortable banquettes. 567 Queen St. W. & 416/504-1626. Subway:
Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Bathurst.
Madison Madison has to be one of the city’s most popular gathering places,
with people (many of them students) jamming every floor and terrace. The newest
development is the billiard room, with 10 tables. Everyone in the friendly crowd
seems to know everyone else. 14 Madison Ave. & 416/927-1722. Subway: Spadina.
Milano Up front there’s a bar, and beyond it stand several billiard tables. The
dining area is off to the side. In summer, French doors open to the street, making for a pleasant Parisian atmosphere. The bistro-style food includes pizza,
pasta, and sandwiches. 325 King St. W. & 416/599-9909. Subway: St. Andrew.
Mint et Menthe
Strictly for the been-there-done-that types, this lounge
serves up excellent cocktails to a 30-something crowd. The setting is a little on the
antiseptic side—white walls, white floors, white furniture—but the sexy music
and communal couches give this bar some heat. 325 King St. W. & 416/599-9909.
Subway: St. Andrew.
Panorama From this 51st-floor perch above Bloor and Bay, visitors can see
north and south for 241km (150 miles)—at least on a clear day. Go for the lit
skyline and the Latin ambience (check out the Rio Carnaval mural) and music.
The seating is comfortable, and more than a dozen types of cigars are available.
Arrive early if you want a window seat. In the Manulife Centre, 55 Bloor St. W. & 416/
967-0000. Subway: Bloor/Yonge.
The Pilot This watering hole dates to the early years of the Second World War.
Regulars who go way back mix with a suited-up after-work crowd. It’s an unpretentious place with pool tables and a wonderful rooftop patio. 22 Cumberland St.
The Real Jerk The original Real Jerk became so popular that it moved to this
larger space. The hip crowd digs the hot background music, the lively ambience,
and the moderately-priced, super-spiced Caribbean food—jerk chicken, curries,
shrimp Creole, rotis, and patties. 709 Queen St. E. & 416/463-6055. www.therealjerk.com.
Reservations only for parties of 8 or more. Subway: Queen, then any streetcar east.
Forget Jaws—the sharks here sport well-cut suits and smoke
Havanas. When not busy striking a pose, the young, hip crowd shoots some
pool at the basement tables. There’s also a restaurant with basic pizza and pasta
offerings and a small patio. 117 Eglinton Ave. E. & 416/488-7899. Subway: Eglinton.
Shark City
212
Impressions
Returning to Toronto was like finding a Jaguar parked in front of the vicarage and the padre inside with a pitcher of vodka martinis reading Lolita.
—Maclean’s magazine, January 1959
Souz Dal
Located in Little Italy, Souz Dal stands out. It’s dark and intimate, painted deep purple and mustard, and decorated in exotic Moroccan fashion. Kilims adorn the walls; the bar is fashioned out of copper. Candles light the
small, trellised patio. There’s a great selection of martinis and margaritas, as well
as tropical drinks, like the Havana (rum, guava juice, and lime). Thursday is
acid-jazz night. 636 College St. & 416/537-1883. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar
west to Grace St.
Wayne Gretzky’s Hockey fans will want to visit this shrine to the Great One,
who hails from the nearby town of Brantford. Several cases display memorabilia—
photos, uniforms, and equipment. They trace Gretzky’s rise from the junior
leagues in Sault Ste. Marie, through his professional debut with the Indianapolis
Racers, to his career in the NHL. Forget the food, unless you simply have to say
that you dined at his place. Better to have a drink at the long bar or head upstairs
to the rooftop Oasis patio, with a fine view of the CN Tower. 99 Blue Jays Way.
& 416/979-PUCK. www.gretzkys.com. Subway: St. Andrew or Union.
Wild Indigo This intimate Little Italy bar has a small, atmospheric patio in
the back. It attracts a youngish, intellectual crowd and features a DJ on weekends.
607 College St. & 416/536-8797. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Clinton St.
PUBS & TAVERNS
Allen’s Allen’s sports a great bar that offers more than 80 beer selections and
164 single malts. Guinness is the drink of choice on Tuesday and Saturday
nights, when folks reel and jig to the Celtic-Irish entertainment. 143 Danforth Ave.
& 416/463-3086. Subway: Broadview.
This brewpub is a beer-drinker’s heaven, serving more
than 200 labels as well as 30 types on draft. By 8pm the tables in the back are
filled, and the long bar is jammed. In summer the patio is fun, too. 600 King St.
The Amsterdam
W. (at Portland St.). & 416/504-6882. Subway: St. Andrew, then any streetcar west.
The Bishop and the Belcher This British-style pub offers 14 drafts on tap
and a decent selection of single malts. The classic pub fare includes bangers and
mash, shepherd’s pie, and a ploughman’s lunch. 361 Queen St. W. & 416/591-2352.
Subway: Osgoode.
The Brunswick House This cavernous room, affectionately known as the
Brunny House, is a favorite with University of Toronto students. Waiters carry
trays of frothy suds between the Formica tables. Impromptu dancing to background music and pool and shuffleboard playing drown out the sound of at least
two of the large-screen TVs, if not the other 18. This is an inexpensive place to
down some beer. Upstairs, there’s live-broadcast thoroughbred and harness racing
from international tracks, including Hong Kong. 481 Bloor St. W. & 416/964-2242.
Subway: Spadina or Bathurst.
Old and new hippies hang in the front room, with its
rococo bar. Local bands try out in the back room. On Sunday, the Cameron
serves an amazingly good brunch. 408 Queen St. W. & 416/703-0811. Subway: Osgoode.
Cameron House
THE BAR SCENE
213
Dora Keogh Irish Pub
Created by the same crew that devised the perennially popular Allen’s, Dora Keogh is an unusually elegant pub. The evening
brings music, with local fiddlers and vocalists strutting their stuff; famous fiddler Natalie McMaster has been known to join in, as have various members of
the Irish group the Chieftains. 141 Danforth Ave. & 416/778-1804. Subway: Broadview.
The Rebel House
The youngish crowd here dresses in designer sportswear.
This neighborhood pub draws them in with its impressive selection of microbrews and reasonably priced grub. 1068 Yonge St. & 416/927-0704. Subway: Rosedale.
Hotel Bars
Just as some of the best restaurants in the city are in hotels, so are
some of the most charming watering holes. While I’m all for heading
out and experiencing what a city has to offer, don’t overlook these
options in your home away from home.
Accents This romantic wine bar offers many selections by the glass.
The lighting is flattering, and a pianist provides jazz background music
throughout the evening. Given how popular the Sutton Place is with
the Hollywood glitterati, it’s no surprise to see stars pass through the
bar. At the Sutton Place Hotel, 955 Bay St. & 416/924-9221. Subway: Museum or
Wellesley.
The Consort Bar This is a wonderfully clubby, old-fashioned bar. Not
only does it boast comfortable wing chairs, but also its 2.5m-high
(8-ft.) windows onto the street afford excellent people watching. The
suited-up crowd is generally more corporate than romantic—with
some sweet exceptions. At Le Royal Meridien King Edward, 37 King St. E. & 416/
863-9700. Subway: King.
La Serre This piano bar offers a full range of single malts and martinis, and welcomes cigar aficionados. Located at street level, it’s a great
place to people-watch along Yorkville Avenue. One caveat: The live
piano music refuses to remain in the background. It’s so noisy that I
find it impossible to talk—but the suits don’t seem to mind. At the Four
Seasons Hotel Toronto, 21 Avenue Rd. & 416/964-0411. Subway: Bay.
The Library Bar This intimate, wood-paneled bar is the best place in
the city to order a top-quality martini, which is served in a generous
“fishbowl” glass. With its leopard-print couches and wingback chairs,
it has an old-fashioned, almost colonial feel. I think it’s one of the most
romantic settings in town. At the Fairmont Royal York, 100 Front St. W. & 416/
863-6333. Subway: Union.
The Roof Author Mordecai Richler called this the only civilized spot
in Toronto. It’s an old literary haunt, with comfortable couches in front
of a fireplace, and excellent drinks. The walls sport caricatures of
members of Canada’s literary establishment. The James Bond martini—
vodka with a drop of lillet—is my personal favorite. The view from the
outdoor terrace is one of the best in the city. At the Park Hyatt Toronto,
4 Avenue Rd. & 416/924-5471. Subway: Museum or Bay.
214
The Unicorn This Celtic pub is named for the Irish Rovers song. Along with
the usual pub staples, there’s Irish stew and a great list of imported dark ales. It’s
a fun, relaxed place to unwind. 175 Eglinton Ave. E. & 416/482-0115. Subway: Eglinton.
Wheat Sheaf Tavern Designated a historic landmark, this is the city’s oldest
tavern—it’s been in operation since 1849. For fans, eight screens show great
moments in sports. The jukebox features 1,200 choices, and there are two pool
tables and an outdoor patio. 667 King St. W. & 416/504-9912. Subway: St. Andrew, then
any streetcar west to Bathurst St.
WINE BARS
Upstairs is the gorgeous dining room (see p. 110 in chapter 5); downstairs is the upscale wine bar. A well-dressed crowd drops by for the convivial
atmosphere, the gourmet pizzas and pastas, and the extensive selection of wines,
which includes more than 600 varieties from around the globe. 2472 Yonge St.
Centro
& 416/483-2211. Subway: Eglinton.
Sottovoce
The name (which translates as “very softly”) must be an inside
joke, because the decibel level here is outrageous. This wine bar is still a great
find, not least because it serves truly inspired focaccia sandwiches and salads.
595 College St. & 416/536-4564. Subway: Queen’s Park, then any streetcar west to Clinton St.
4 The Gay & Lesbian Scene
Toronto’s large, active gay and lesbian community has created a varied nightlife
scene. At some nightspots, such as the Phoenix Concert Theatre, one night a
week is gay night (in this case, Thursday). See “Dance Clubs,” earlier in this
chapter.
Bar 501 This bar is popular with gay men for its Sunday evening drag shows,
which often attract crowds that watch from the sidewalk through the large front
window. There’s also Saturday afternoon bingo with the infamous Sister Bedelia.
501 Church St. & 416/944-3272. Subway: Wellesley.
The Barn/The Stables This is one of the city’s oldest gay bars. The male-only
crowd keeps the second-story dance floor jammed. There are afternoon underwear
parties on Sunday, and sex videos, too. The favored look is denim with occasional
ranch-style allusions (you’ll see a few spurs). There’s also an on-site leather shop
selling fetish gear and clothing. 418 Church St. & 416/977-4702. Subway: College.
Byzantium
An attractive bar-restaurant, Byzantium attracts an affable
Value
gay and straight crowd for cocktails, which are both excellent and reasonably
priced (you must try either the Red Velvet or the Black Orchid; either is
C$7/US$4.90). You can follow drinks with dinner in the adjacent dining room,
where the cooking is top-notch. 499 Church St. & 416/922-3859. Subway: Wellesley.
Crews/Tango Located in a renovated Victorian house, this two-in-one club
boasts a large outdoor patio. Crews is a gay bar for men, and it is known for its
pubby atmosphere and its drag shows, which start at 11pm on Wednesday
through Sunday. The adjoining Tango bar draws a lesbian crowd. It hosts Tuesday- and Thursday-night karaoke; on Friday and Saturday nights, the women
head for the dance floor. 508 Church St. & 416/972-1662. Subway: Wellesley.
El Convento Rico
The Latin beat beckons one and all—straight, gay, and
otherwise—to this lively club. If you don’t know how to samba, you can pick up
the basics at the Friday- and Sunday-night dance lessons, but if you don’t learn,
no one on the jam-packed dance floor will notice. There’s a substantial hetero
COFFEEHOUSES
215
contingent that comes out just to watch the fabulous drag queens. 750 College St.
& 416/588-7800. www.elconventorico.com. Cover C$5 ($3.50) or less. Subway: Queen’s Park,
then streetcar west.
This is the city’s most popular lesbian bar. It has a pool table and
a game room furnished with old, cozy couches downstairs, and a restaurant and
dance area upstairs. On Saturday, there’s a hearty buffet brunch. In summer, the
fenced-in patio is the place to cool off. A group called the Drag Kings performs
occasionally. 547 Parliament St. (at Winchester St.). & 416/925-6662. Subway: Wellesley, then
Pope Joan
any streetcar east to Parliament St., and walk 2 blocks south.
Sailor This bar is attached to Woody’s (see below), but has a livelier atmosphere; unlike Woody’s, you won’t see many women here. Every Thursday there’s
a Best Chest competition, and on Sunday the draw is the drag show. In the
evening, a DJ spins an assortment of dance and alternative tunes. 465 Church St.
& 416/972-0887. Subway: Wellesley.
This incredibly popular bar draws a gay and lesbian crowd, with
more than a few straights. The menu features home-style comfort food; on
weekend evenings, a DJ gets the crowd on its feet. 562 Church St. & 416/969-8742.
Slack Alice
Subway: Wellesley.
A friendly, popular local bar, Woody’s attracts mainly men but
welcomes women; the crowd is a mix of gay and hetero. It’s a popular meeting
spot, especially for weekend brunch. 467 Church St. (south of Wellesley St.). & 416/972Woody’s
0887. www.woodystoronto.com. Subway: Wellesley.
5 Cinemas & Movie Houses
There is no shortage of movie theaters—in fact, monster megaplexes are the rage
at the moment. The largest theaters are at the Eaton Centre, St. Lawrence Market Square, and Yonge and Eglinton. Cinemas with a mere pair of screens can
be found at the Sheraton Centre, Bloor and Yonge, and Yonge and St. Clair.
Check Now, Eye, or one of the newspapers for listings.
Carlton Cinemas Home to the subtitled set, the Carlton plays films—many
of them superb—that frequently don’t see the light of day anywhere else. Many
of the offerings originate in France, Italy, Russia, or China; there’s also a smattering of independent North American films. Buy tickets early on weekends.
20 Carlton St. & 416/964-2463. Tickets C$10 (US$7). Tues discounts. Subway: College.
Cinematheque Ontario This organization shows the best in contemporary
cinema. The programs include directors’ retrospectives, plus new films from
France, Germany, Japan, Bulgaria, and other countries that you won’t find in the
first-run theaters around town. Screenings at Art Gallery of Ontario, 317 Dundas St. W.
(between McCaul and Beverley sts.). Office: 2 Carlton St. & 416/967-7371 or 416/923-3456 (box
office). Tickets C$8 (US$5.60) adults, C$4.25 (US$3) seniors and students. Subway: St. Patrick.
6 Coffeehouses
While Starbucks has certainly staked out territory in Toronto, the Canadian
chain the Second Cup is holding its ground. It offers a full range of flavored coffees and espresso varieties, plus cakes, muffins, croissants, and gift items.
Another chain, Timothy’s, invites you to pour your own selection from about
10 varieties. My favorite coffeehouses are all independents, though.
216
Sweet Treats: Toronto’s Dessert Cafes
Nightlife doesn’t have to mean high culture, barhopping, or anything
in between. It doesn’t even mean you have to stop eating. Here are
some of the city’s most agreeable places to satisfy a sweet tooth and
do some people watching.
Demetre Caffe In the heart of Greektown on the Danforth, Demetre
is known for its Old World ambience as well as its sweets: Belgian waffles, oversized sundaes, cakes, tortes, and baklava. It’s popular at all
hours of the evening with a casual crowd, and on weekends it draws
families. Closing time is midnight Sunday through Thursday, and 3am
Friday and Saturday. 400 Danforth Ave. & 416/778-6654. Subway: Broadview.
Desserts by Phipps The cafe serves salads and sandwiches, but what
really draw the crowds are the decadent desserts. Cappuccino chiffon
cake is a direct hit, as are the moist but not gooey apple confections.
420 Eglinton Ave. W. & 416/481-9111. Subway: Eglinton.
Dufflet Pastries On menus around town, you’ll sometimes see mention of “desserts by Dufflet.” Divine is the word that best applies to
these confections. Owner Dufflet Rosenberg bakes some of the most
delectable tortes, tarts, and pastries in the city. The problem is deciding
where to start. Chocolate raspberry truffle? Cappuccino dacquoise?
Your call. There are a few selections for people with gluten or nut allergies, and the cafe also serves light fare. 787 Queen St. W. & 416/504-2870.
www.dufflet.com. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to Euclid Ave.
Greg’s Ice Cream One taste of Greg’s homemade ice cream will turn
you into an addict. (I should know—I’ve been one for years.) Different
flavors are available each day, and the staff is generous about handing
out samples. It’s hard for me to pick one favorite flavor, but the roasted
marshmallow would definitely be up there. 200 Bloor St. W. & 416/9614734. Subway: Museum or St. George.
Just Desserts This cafe stays open practically around the clock on
weekends for those in need of a sugar fix. Around 40 desserts are
available—as many as 12 different cheesecakes, 10 or so pies, plus an
array of gâteaux, tortes, and meringues. All cost around C$6 (US$4.20).
555 Yonge St. (at Wellesley). & 416/963-8089. Subway: Wellesley.
Sicilian Ice Cream Company This old-fashioned ice cream parlor is
Toronto’s top purveyor of Italian gelati. The wonderful patio is open
in the summer. 712 College St. & 416/531-7716. Subway: Queen’s Park, then
streetcar west.
One of the oldest cafes in Toronto, this Little Italy gem
has mosaic marble floors, wrought-iron chairs, and an extra-large sidewalk patio.
Many longtime area residents get their caffeine fix here in the morning; the patio
attracts a trendier crowd. 594 College St. & 416/534-4637. Subway: Queen’s Park.
Daily Express Café Near the student ghetto in the Annex neighborhood,
this lively cafe draws most of its crowd from the nearby University of Toronto.
Cafe Diplomatico
280 Bloor St. W. & 416/944-3225. Subway: St. George.
COFFEEHOUSES
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Future Bakery This rambling cafe attracts an artsy crowd with fine breads
and a selection of coffees. Would-be writers scribble away in well-lit corners.
483 Bloor St. W. & 416/922-5875. Subway: Spadina.
Gypsy Co-op Coffee is not the only king here. Many teas and herbal infusions (for everything from stress to colds and flu) are available, as are super-rich
brownies. 815 Queen St. W. & 416/703-5069. Subway: Osgoode, then any streetcar west to
Manning.
The house rule is that after 7 minutes, a pot of coffee is no longer
fresh. This place takes the bean seriously. In addition to the wide range of coffees, there are focaccia sandwiches, tarts, cookies, and pastries. 94 Cumberland St.
Lettieri
& 416/515-8764. Subway: Bay.
10
Side Trips from Toronto
ere’s a classic good news/bad news
H
situation: Some of the greatest attractions in this region are within a 2-hour
drive of Toronto. They’re easily accessible, which is a good thing, but if
you’re trying to shoehorn all of the
sights into a short stay . . . you’ve got
some serious choices to make. This
chapter describes the three best—the
wine region of Niagara-on-the-Lake,
the theater town of Stratford, and the
golf/spa/sailing resort retreat of the
Muskokas—as well as the less wellknown city of Hamilton.
For information about the areas surrounding Toronto, contact Tourism
Ontario (& 800/ONTARIO or 416/
314-0944; www.travelinx.com), or
visit the travel center in the Eaton
Centre on Level 1 at Yonge and Dundas streets. It’s open Monday through
Friday from 10am to 9pm, Saturday
from 9:30am to 6pm, and Sunday
from noon to 5pm.
1 Stratford ¡
145km (90 miles) NW of Toronto
The Stratford Festival has humble roots. The idea of a theater was launched in
1953 when director Tyrone Guthrie lured the great Sir Alec Guinness to the
stage here. Whether Sir Alec knew the “stage” was set up in a makeshift tent is
another question, but his acclaimed performance gave the festival the push—
and press—it needed to become an annual tradition. Since then the Stratford
Festival has grown to become one of the most famous in North America, and its
four theaters (no more tents!) have put this charming and scenic town on the
map. While visitors will notice the Avon River and other sights named in honor
of the Bard, they may not realize that Stratford has another claim to fame. It’s
home to one of Canada’s best cooking schools, which makes dining at many of
the spots in town a delight.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION For first-rate visitor information, go to the
Information Centre (& 519/273-3352) by the river on York Street at Erie.
From May to early November, it’s open Sunday through Wednesday from 9am
to 5pm, and Thursday through Saturday from 9am to 8pm. At other times, contact Tourism Stratford, 47 Downie St., Stratford, ON N5A 1W7 (& 800/561SWAN or 519/271-5140; www.city.stratford.on.ca).
GETTING THERE Driving from Toronto, take Highway 401 west to
Interchange 278 at Kitchener. Follow Highway 8 west onto Highway 7/8 to
Stratford.
Amtrak and VIA Rail (& 416/366-8411) operate several trains daily along
the Toronto–Kitchener–Stratford route. Call & 800/361-1235 in Canada or
800/USA-RAIL in the United States.
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C H A P T E R 1 0 . S I D E T R I P S F R O M TO R O N TO
Tips A Helpful Planning Tool
Each week Outside Toronto (www.outsidetoronto.com) suggests things
to see and do within a 2-hour drive of the city: antiques shows, farmers’
markets, recreational events. The “Places to Go” section directs you to
museums, festivals, and charming little towns. The site provides maps, too.
THE STRATFORD FESTIVAL
On July 13, 1953, Richard III, starring Sir Alec Guinness, was staged in a huge
tent. From that modest start, Stratford’s artistic directors have built on the radical, but faithfully classic, base established by Tyrone Guthrie to create a repertory theater with a glowing international reputation.
Stratford has four theaters. The Festival Theatre, 55 Queen St., in Queen’s
Park, has a dynamic thrust stage (a modern re-creation of an Elizabethan stage).
The recently renovated Avon Theatre, 99 Downie St., has a classic proscenium.
The Tom Patterson Theatre, Lakeside Drive, is an intimate 500-seat theater. The
newest venue—the Studio Theatre (attached to the Avon Theatre)—opened its
doors in July 2002; the 278-seat space will be used for new and experimental
works.
World famous for its Shakespearean productions, the festival also offers classic and modern theatrical masterpieces. Recent productions have included My
Fair Lady, The Hunchback of Notre Dame, and The King and I. Offerings from
the Bard have included Romeo and Juliet, Richard III, and The Taming of the
Shrew. Sir Alec wasn’t the company’s only famous alumnus: The list of luminaries includes Dame Maggie Smith, Sir Peter Ustinov, Alan Bates, Christopher
Plummer, Irene Worth, and Julie Harris. Present company members include
Tom McCamus, Cynthia Dale, Colm Feore, and Lucy Peacock.
In addition to attending plays, visitors may enjoy the “Celebrated Writers
Series,” which features renowned authors (some of whom have penned works
performed at the Stratford Festival). The list of speakers has included Margaret
Atwood, Michael Ondaatje, Joyce Carol Oates, and Rohinton Mistry. All lectures take place on Sunday mornings at the Tom Patterson Theatre or the Studio Theatre, and they cost C$24 (US$17) per person; tickets are available from
the box office.
The season usually begins in May and continues through October, with performances Tuesday through Sunday nights and matinees on Wednesday, Saturday,
and Sunday. Ticket prices range from C$39 to $100 (US$27–$70), with special
prices for students and seniors. For tickets, call & 800/567-1600; visit www.
stratfordfestival.ca; or write to the Stratford Festival, P.O. Box 520, Stratford, ON
N5A 6V2. Tickets are also available in the United States and Canada at Ticketmaster outlets. The box office opens for mail and fax orders in late January; telephone and in-person sales begin in late February.
EXPLORING THE TOWN
Stratford has a wealth of attractions that complement the theater offerings. It’s a
compact town, easily negotiable on foot. Within sight of the Festival Theatre,
Queen’s Park has picnic spots beneath tall shade trees and by the Avon River.
There are also some superb dining and good shopping prospects.
Past the Orr Dam and the 90-year-old stone bridge, through a rustic gate, lies
a very special park, the Shakespearean Garden. In the formal English garden,
Stratford
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ATTRACTIONS
Acrylic Dreams 21
Bentley’s 12
Avon Boat Rentals 5
Albert Place 17
The Church 16
Avon Theatre 20
Ambercroft 14
Keystone Alley Cafe 19
City Hall 18
Avonview Manor 6
The Old Prune 13
Festival Theatre 3
Bentley’s 12
Rundles 10
Gallery Stratford 1
Deacon House 15
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where a sundial measures the hours, you can relax and contemplate the herb and
flower beds and the tranquil river lagoon, and muse on a bust of Shakespeare by
Toronto sculptor Cleeve Horne.
If you turn right onto Romeo Street North from highways 7 and 8 as you come
into Stratford, you’ll find the Gallery Stratford, 54 Romeo St. (& 519/2715271; www.gallerystratford.on.ca). It’s in a historic building on the fringes of
Confederation Park. Since it opened in 1967, it has mounted fine Canadianfocused shows, often oriented to the theater arts. Its hours change with the seasons, but mid-May through late September it’s open from 9am to 5pm (call
ahead for hours for other times of year). Admission is approximately C$10
(US$7) for adults, C$8 (US$5.60) for seniors and students 12 and up, and free
for children 11 and under. Admission prices change with the special exhibits on
display.
Stratford is a historic town, dating to 1832. Ninety-minute guided tours of
Stratford take place Monday through Saturday in July and August, and on Saturday only in May, June, September and October. They leave at 9:30am from
the visitor’s booth by the river, and are free of charge (call ahead to confirm). The
visitor’s booth also has maps available for self-guided tours.
Paddleboat, kayak and canoe rentals are available at the Boathouse, behind
and below the information booth. It’s open daily from 9am until dusk in summer. Contact Avon Boat Rentals, 40 York St. (& 519/271-7739). There’s also
a boat, the Juliet III, which offers scenic half-hour tours.
A COUPLE OF EXCURSIONS FROM STRATFORD
Only half an hour or so away, the twin cities of Kitchener and Waterloo have two
drawing cards: the Farmer’s Market and the famous 9-day Oktoberfest. The
cities still have a German-majority population (of German descent, and often
German speaking), and many citizens are Mennonites. On Saturday starting at
6am, you can sample shoofly pie, apple butter, kochcase, and other Mennonite
specialties at the market in the Market Square complex, at Duke and Frederick
streets in Kitchener. For additional information, contact the Kitchener–Waterloo
Area Visitors and Convention Bureau, 2848 King St. E., Kitchener, ON N2A
1A5 (& 519/748-0800; www.kw-visitor.on.ca). It’s open from 9am to 5pm weekdays only in winter, daily in summer. For Oktoberfest information, check out
www.oktoberfest.ca; or write K-W Oktoberfest, P.O. Box 1053, 17 Benton St.,
Kitchener, ON N2G 4G1 (& 888/294-HANS or 519/570-HANS).
Eight kilometers (5 miles) north of Kitchener is the town of St. Jacobs. It has
close to 100 shops in venues such as a converted mill, silo, and other factory
buildings. For those interested in learning more about the Amish-Mennonite
way of life, the Meetingplace, 33 King St. (& 519/664-3518), shows a short
film about it (daily in summer, weekends only in winter). Ironically enough,
there’s also a St. Jacobs Outlet Mall (surely not run by the Amish!), filled with
discounted Levi’s jeans, Paderno cookware, Liz Claiborne and Jones New York
clothing, Cadbury’s chocolate, and Royal Doulton giftware. It’s located at 25
Benjamin Road, and it’s open Monday through Friday from 9:30am to 9pm,
Saturday 8:30am to 6pm, and Sunday noon to 5pm (closed Jan 1 and Dec 25).
Call & 519/888-0138 for more information.
WHERE TO STAY
When you book your theater tickets, you can book your accommodations at no
extra charge. Options range from guest homes for as little as C$40 (US$28) to
S T R AT F O R D
223
first-class hotels charging more than C$125 (US$88). Call the Stratford Festival
Accommodation Bureau at & 800/567-1600 for information (note that some
accommodations are only open to festival-goers, and these can only be booked
through the Accommodation Bureau). You can also get information about where
to stay from Tourism Stratford at & 800/561-SWAN. Rooms in Stratford are
most expensive in June, July and August; it’s easier to get a discount from fall to
spring.
HOTELS & MOTELS
Albert Place Around the corner from the Avon Theatre, the Albert Place has
large rooms with high ceilings. Furnishings are simple and modern. Some units
have separate sitting rooms. Rates include coffee, tea, and doughnuts served in
the lobby in the early morning.
23 Albert St., Stratford, ON N5A 3K2. & 519/273-5800. Fax 519/273-5008. 34 units. C$79–$105 (US$55–
$74) double; C$165 (US$116) suite. Rates include small breakfast. MC, V. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV.
This inn enjoys an excellent location at the center of town. The
soundproofed rooms are luxurious duplex suites with efficiency kitchens. Period
English furnishings and attractive drawings, paintings, and costume designs on
the walls make for a pleasant ambience. Five units have skylights. The adjoining
British-style pub, also called Bentley’s, is popular with festival actors (see “Where
to Dine,” below).
Bentley’s
99 Ontario St., Stratford, ON N5A 3H1. & 800/361-5322 or 519/271-1121. www.bentleys-annex.com.
13 units. Apr–Nov C$150 (US$105) double; Nov–June C$95 (US$67) double. Extra person C$20 (US$14).
AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Pub. In room: A/C, TV, kitchen, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer.
Festival Inn The Festival Inn sits outside town off highways 7 and 8, on 8
hectares (20 acres) of landscaped grounds. This is the largest full-service hotel in
Stratford. The place has an Old English air, with stucco walls, Tudor-style
beams, and high-backed red settees in the lobby. Tudor style prevails throughout the large, motel-style rooms. All have wall-to-wall carpeting, matching bedspreads, floor-to-ceiling drapes, and reproductions of old masters on the walls.
Some units have charming bay windows with sheer curtains, and all rooms in
the main building, north wing, and annex have refrigerators. The indoor pool
has an outdoor patio.
1144 Ontario St. (P.O. Box 811), Stratford, ON N5A 6W1. & 519/273-1150. Fax 519/273-2111. www.festival
innstratford.com. 182 units. C$140–$200 (US$98–$140) double. Extra person C$10 (US$7). Winter discounts
(about 30%) available. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Dining room; coffee shop; indoor pool; Jacuzzi;
sauna. In room: A/C, TV, fridge, coffeemaker.
The Queen’s Inn occupies one of the best locations in Stratford—it’s right in the town center. The historic building is about a century and
a half old, but the guest rooms have a fresh look every year, after the owners use
the winter months for refurbishing. The English-style Boar’s Head Pub is on the
premises. Breakfast is included in the rates: From May to mid-November, it’s a
breakfast buffet Monday through Saturday; the rest of the year, it’s a continental breakfast.
The Queen’s Inn
161 Ontario St., Stratford, ON N5A 3H3. & 800/461-6450 or 519/271-1400. Fax 519/271-7373. www.queens
innstratford.ca. 31 units. May to mid-Nov 15 C$85–$130 (US$60–$91) double, C$165–$225 (US$116–$158)
suite; mid-Nov to Apr 16 C$69 (US$48) double, from C$85 (US$60) suite. Rates include breakfast. AE, DC, MC,
V. Free parking. Pets accepted. Amenities: Restaurant; pub; business center; limited room service; babysitting;
same-day dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
224
A PICK OF THE B&BS
For more information on the bed-and-breakfast scene, write to Tourism Stratford, P.O. Box 818, 88 Wellington St., Stratford, ON N5A 6W1 (& 519/2715140). It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.
Acrylic Dreams As its name suggests, the recently refurbished Acrylic
Dreams has a fun, modern atmosphere, thanks to its artist owners. Cottage-style
antiques furnish most of the house, but the living room is done in new wave
style, with transparent acrylic furniture. Upstairs, a suite decorated in Provençal
colors has a separate sitting room with TV and refrigerator. On the ground floor,
two doubles share a refrigerator. The full breakfast varies, but might include
peaches, peach yogurt, and homemade scones and preserves with ingredients
from the garden (but no meat—the owners are vegetarians). There’s a phone for
guests’ use. Co-owner Karen Zamara offers in-room reflexology treatments;
guests are also welcome to attend yoga classes at her downtown studio
(C$12/US$8.40 per class).
66 Bay St., Stratford, ON N5A 4K6. & and fax 519/271-7874. www.bbcanada.com/3718.html. 4 units.
C$90–$130 (US$63–$91) double; C$135 (US$95) suite. 3rd person in suite C$25 (US$18). Rates include full
breakfast. 2-night minimum on weekends. No credit cards. Street parking. Amenities: In-room massage.
In room: A/C, no phone.
Ambercroft This inviting 1878 home in a quiet downtown area is convenient to the theaters and restaurants. The quirky, angular rooms are country cozy,
and were refurbished recently. There’s a comfy front parlor, a small TV room,
and front and rear porches. Guests have the use of a refrigerator. The extended
continental breakfast includes seasonal fruits, cereals, homemade baked goods,
and more. No smoking; there is a spaniel in the house, but pets are not accepted.
129 Brunswick St., Stratford, ON N5A 3L9. & 519/271-5644. Fax 519/272-0156. www.ambercroftbandb.com.
4 units. C$115–$135 (US$81–$95) double. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no phone.
Avonview Manor In a 1916 Edwardian house on a quiet street, Avonview
Manor offers attractive individually furnished rooms. Three have queen-size
beds; the suite contains four singles, a sitting room, and a private bath. Breakfast is served in a bright dining room that overlooks the garden. Guests have the
use of a kitchen. The living room is very comfortable, particularly in winter,
when guests can cozy up in front of the stone fireplace. Smoking is allowed only
on the porch. There’s also an in-ground pool and Jacuzzi.
63 Avon St., Stratford, ON N5A 5N5. & 519/273-4603. www.bbcanada.com/avonview. 4 units (3 w/private
bathroom). C$90–$110 (US$63–$77) double; C$120–$160 (US$84–$112) suite. Rates include full breakfast.
No credit cards; personal checks accepted. Street parking. Amenities: Outdoor pool; Jacuzzi; sauna. In room:
A/C; no phone.
Deacon House
This is a great location, within walking distance of everything. Dianna Hrysko and Mary Allen have restored Deacon House, a shinglestyle structure built in 1907. Rooms are decorated in country style, with
iron-and-brass beds, quilts, pine hutches, oak rockers, and rope-style rugs. The
comfortable living room holds a fireplace, TV, wingback chairs, and a sofa. The
main-floor guest kitchen is a welcome convenience, as is the second-floor sitting
and reading room. The entire house is nonsmoking, but allergy sufferers should
know that there are pets in the house.
101 Brunswick St., Stratford, ON N5A 3L9. & 877/825-6374 or 519/273-2052. Fax 519/273-3784.
www.bbcanada.com/1152.html. 6 units. C$110–$132 (US$77–$94) double. Extra person C$35 (US$25).
Rates include full breakfast. Off-season packages available. MC, V. Free parking. In room: A/C, hair dryer, no
phone.
S T R AT F O R D
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This handsome 1870 house is home to Ken Vinen, who collects
and restores early “musical amusement devices” from phonographs to vintage
jukeboxes; the 30 pieces around the house are all in working order. Five rooms
have fireplaces, and the handsome suite boasts a canopy bed. Rooms are large
and offer excellent value. Morning coffee is delivered to your room, followed by
breakfast prepared to order and served in the dining room. There’s an attractively landscaped outdoor pool and terrace. House policies are no smoking, no
children, and no pets.
Woods Villa
62 John St. N., Stratford, ON N5A 6K7. & 519/271-4576. www.woodsvilla.orc.ca. 6 units. C$145–$230
(US$102–$161) double. Rates include full breakfast. MC, V. Street parking. Children not allowed. Amenities:
Outdoor pool. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, iron.
A N E A R B Y P L A C E T O S TAY & D I N E
This elegant house stands at the head of a curving, treeLangdon Hall
lined drive. Eugene Langdon Wilks, a great-grandson of John Jacob Astor, completed it in 1902. It remained in the family until 1987, when its transformation
into a small country-house hotel began. Today, its Langdon Hall is a Relais &
Chateaux property, and its 81 hectares (200 acres) of lawns, gardens, and woodlands make for an ideal retreat. The main house, of red brick with classical
pediment and Palladian-style windows, has a beautiful symmetry. Throughout,
the emphasis is on comfort rather than grandiosity. The luxurious on-site spa
offers a complete range of treatments. Most rooms surround the cloister garden.
Each is individually decorated; most have fireplaces. The furnishings consist of
handsome antiques reproductions, mahogany wardrobes, ginger-jar porcelain
lamps, and armchairs upholstered with luxurious fabrics. The property has a
croquet lawn and cross-country ski trails.
The light, airy dining room serves fine regional cuisine. Main courses run
C$22 to $32 (US$15–$22). Tea is served on the veranda, and there’s a bar.
RR #3, Cambridge, ON N3H 4R8. & 800/268-1898 or 519/740-2100. Fax 519/740-8161. www.langdonhall.
ca. 49 units. C$259–$699 (US$181–$489) double. Rates include full breakfast. Spa packages from C$180
(US$126). AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. From Hwy. 401, take exit 275 south, turn right onto Blair Rd., follow
signs. Pets accepted. Amenities: Dining room; bar; outdoor pool; tennis courts; health club; spa; Jacuzzi;
sauna; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; babysitting; dry cleaning; billiard room. In room: A/C,
TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
CONTINENTAL
The Church
The Church is simply stunning. The
organ pipes and the altar of the 1873 structure are intact, along with the vaulted
roof, carved woodwork, and stained-glass windows. You can sit in the nave or
the side aisles and dine to appropriate sounds—usually Bach. Fresh flowers and
elegant table settings further enhance the experience.
In summer, there’s a special four-course prix-fixe dinner menu and an aftertheater menu. Appetizers might include asparagus served hot with black morels
in their juices, white wine, and cream; or sauté of duck foie gras with leeks and
citron, mango, and ginger sauce. Among the selection of eight or so entrees, you
might find Canadian caribou with port and blackberry sauce, cabbage braised in
cream with shallots and glazed chestnuts, or lobster salad with green beans, new
potatoes, and truffles scented with caraway. Desserts are equally exciting—try
charlotte of white chocolate mousse with summer fruit and dark chocolate sauce.
To dine here during the festival, make reservations in March or April when
you buy your tickets. In the off-season, call ahead; hours vary. The upstairs Belfry Bar is a popular pre- and post-theater gathering place.
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70 Brunswick St. (at Waterloo St.). & 519/273-3424. www.churchrestaurant.com. Reservations strongly
recommended. Prix-fixe dinner (summer only) C$59–$73 (US$41–$51); main courses C$33–$46
(US$23–$32). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–1am; Sun 11:30am–11pm. Off-season hours vary. Call for
Mon hours during special events.
M O D E R AT E
Bentley’s CANADIAN/ENGLISH
Bentley’s is the local watering hole, and a
favorite theater company gathering spot. The popular pastime is darts, but you
can also watch TV. In summer you can sit on the garden terrace and enjoy the
light fare—grilled shrimp, burgers, gourmet pizza, fish and chips, shepherd’s pie,
and pasta dishes. The dinner menu features more substantial fare, including
lamb curry, sirloin steak, and salmon baked in white wine with peppercorn-dill
butter. The bar offers 16 drafts on tap.
99 Ontario St. & 519/271-1121. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$8–$14 (US$5.60–$9.80).
AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am.
CONTINENTAL The food here is better than the
fare at some pricier competitors. Theater actors often stop in for lunch—perhaps
a sandwich, like the maple-grilled chicken and avocado club, or a main dish like
cornmeal-crusted Mediterranean tart. At dinner, entrees range from breast of
Muscovy duck with stir-fried Asian vegetables and egg noodles in honey-ginger
sauce, to escalopes of calf ’s liver accompanied by garlic potato purée and
creamed Savoy cabbage with bacon. The short wine list is reasonably priced.
Keystone Alley Cafe
34 Brunswick St. & 519/271-5645. www.keystonealley.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses
C$17–$26.50 (US$12–$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm; Tues–Sat 5–9pm.
The Old Prune
CONTINENTAL Two charming, whimsical women—
Marion Isherwood and Eleanor Kane—run the Prune. In a lovely Edwardian
home, it has three dining rooms and an enclosed garden patio. Former Montréalers, the proprietors demonstrate Québec flair in both decor and menu.
Marion’s inspired paintings grace the walls.
Chef Bryan Steele selects the freshest local ingredients, many from the region’s
organic farmers, and prepares them simply to reveal their abundant flavor. Appetizers might include outstanding house-smoked salmon with lobster potato salad
topped with Sevruga caviar, or refreshing tomato consommé with saffron and sea
scallops. Among the main courses, you might find Perth County pork loin grilled
with tamari and honey glaze and served with shiitake mushrooms, pickled cucumbers, and sunflower sprouts; steamed bass in Napa cabbage with curry broth and
lime leaves; or rack of Ontario lamb with smoky tomatillo-chipotle pepper sauce.
Desserts, such as rhubarb strawberry Napoleon with vanilla mousse, are always
inspired. The Old Prune is also lovely for lunch or a late supper.
151 Albert St. & 519/271-5052. www.oldprune.on.ca. Reservations required. 3-course prix-fixe dinner
C$53 (US$37); lunch main courses C$7–$12 (US$4.90–$8.40), dinner main course C$7–$14
(US$4.90–$9.80). AE, MC, V. Wed–Sun 11:30am–1:30pm; Tues–Sat 5–9pm; Sun 5–7pm. After-theater menu
Fri–Sat from 9pm. Call for winter hours.
Rundles INTERNATIONAL Rundles provides a premier dining experience in a serene dining room overlooking the river. Proprietor Jim Morris eats,
sleeps, thinks, and dreams food, and chef Neil Baxter delivers the exciting,
exquisite cuisine to the table. The prix-fixe dinner offers palate-pleasing flavor
combinations. Appetizers might include shaved fennel, arugula, artichoke, and
Parmesan salad or warm seared Québec foie gras. Among the five main dishes
might be poached Atlantic salmon garnished with Jerusalem artichokes, wilted
N I A G A R A - O N - T H E - L A K E & N I A G A R A FA L L S
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arugula, and yellow peppers in a light carrot sauce, or pink roast rib-eye of lamb
with ratatouille and rosemary aioli. My dessert choice would be glazed lemon
tart and orange sorbet, but hot mango tart with pineapple sorbet is also a dream.
9 Cobourg St. & 519/271-6442. www.rundlesrestaurant.com. Reservations required. 3-course prix-fixe dinner C$59 (US$41). AE, DC, MC, V. Apr–Oct Wed and Sat–Sun 11:30am–1:30pm, Tues 5–7pm, Wed–Sat
5–8:30pm, Sun 5–7pm. Closed Nov–Mar.
INEXPENSIVE
York Street Kitchen ECLECTIC
This small restaurant is a fun, funky spot
that serves reasonably priced, high-quality food. You can come here for breakfast burritos and other morning fare, and for lunch sandwiches, which you build
yourself by choosing from a list of fillings. In the evenings, expect to find comfort foods like meatloaf and mashed potatoes or barbecued chicken and ribs.
41 York St. & 519/273-7041. www.yorkstreetkitchen.com. Reservations not accepted. Main courses C$8–$13
(US$5.60–$9.10). AE, V. Daily Apr to early Oct 8am–8pm; mid-Oct to Mar 8am–3pm. Closed Dec 24–Jan 5.
2 Niagara-on-the-Lake & Niagara Falls
130km (80 miles) SE of Toronto
Only 11⁄ 2 hours from Toronto, Niagara-on-the-Lake is one of the best-preserved
and prettiest 19th-century villages in North America. Handsome clapboard and
brick period houses border the tree-lined streets. It’s the setting for one of
Canada’s most famous events, the Shaw Festival. The town is the jewel of the
Ontario wine region.
Less than a half-hour drive from Niagara-on-the-Lake is Niagara Falls, which
was for decades the region’s honeymoon capital (I say this in an attempt to
explain its endless motels—each with at least one suite that has a heart-shaped
pink bed). While the falls are a majestic sight, I have my reservations about the
town, especially since the casino opened. My advice would be to stay at an inn
in Niagara-on-the-Lake and come to Niagara Falls for a day trip. By the way, the
drive along the Niagara Parkway is a delight: With its endless parks and gardens, it’s an oasis for nature-lovers. (See “Along the Niagara Parkway,” below.)
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION The Niagara-on-the-Lake Chamber of Commerce, 153 King St. (P.O. Box 1043), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0
(& 905/468-4263; www.niagara-on-the-lake.com/visit.html), provides information and can help you find accommodations. It’s open Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm, and Saturday and Sunday from 10am to 5pm.
For Niagara Falls travel information, contact Niagara Falls Tourism at
(& 800/56-FALLS; www.discoverniagara.com), or the Niagara Parks Commission, Box 150, 7400 Portage Rd. S., Niagara Falls, ON L2E 6T2 (& 905/
356-2241; www.niagaraparks.com). Information centers are open daily in
summer from 9am to 6pm at Table Rock House and the Maid of the Mist Plaza.
GETTING THERE Niagara-on-the-Lake is best seen by car. From Toronto,
take the Queen Elizabeth Way (signs read QEW) to Niagara via Hamilton and St.
Catharines, and exit at Highway 55. The trip takes about 11⁄ 2 hours.
Amtrak and VIA (& 416/366-8411) operate trains between Toronto and
New York, but they only stop in Niagara Falls and St. Catharine’s, not Niagaraon-the-Lake. Call & 800/361-1235 in Canada or 800/USA-RAIL in the
United States. From either place, you’ll need to rent a car. Rental outlets in St.
Catharines include National Tilden, 162 Church St. (& 905/682-8611), and
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Hertz, 404 Ontario St. (& 905/682-8695). In Niagara Falls, National Tilden
is at 4523 Drummond Rd. (& 905/374-6700).
THE SHAW FESTIVAL
The Shaw celebrates the dramatic and comedic works of George Bernard Shaw
and his contemporaries. From April to October, the festival offers a dozen plays
in the historic Court House, the exquisite Shaw Festival Theatre, and the
Royal George Theatre. Some recent performances have included Hay Fever,
The House of Bernarda Alba, Chaplin, and Shaw’s Caesar and Cleopatra.
Free chamber concerts take place Sunday at 11am. Chats introduce performances on Friday evenings in July and August, and question-and-answer sessions
follow Tuesday evening performances.
The Shaw announces its festival program in mid-January. Tickets are difficult
to obtain on short notice, so book in advance. Prices range from C$26 to $75
(US$18–$53). For more information, contact the Shaw Festival, P.O. Box 774,
Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0 (& 800/511-7429 or 905/468-2172;
www.shawfest.com).
EXPLORING THE TOWN
Niagara-on-the Lake is small, and most of its attractions are along one main
street, making it easy to explore on foot.
Touring Niagara-on-the-Lake Wineries
Visiting a local winery is one of the loveliest (and tastiest) ways to pass
an hour or two in this region. For maps of the area and information
about vintners, contact the Wine Council of Ontario, 110 Hanover Dr.,
Suite B-205, St. Catharines, ON L2W 1A4 (& 888/5-WINERY or 905/6848070; www.wineroute.com). The wineries listed below are close to the
town of Niagara-on-the-Lake. Tours are free. Prices for tastings vary
with the winery and the wine you’re sampling, and usually run C$3 to
$10 (US$2.10–$7).
Take Highway 55 (Niagara Stone Rd.) out of Niagara-on-the-Lake,
and you’ll come to Hillebrand Estates Winery (& 905/468-7123; www.
hillebrand.com), just outside Virgil. It’s open year-round, plays host to
a variety of special events (including a weekend concert series), and
even offers bicycle tours. Hillebrand’s Vineyard Café, with views of
both the barrel-filled cellar and the Niagara Escarpment, is a delightful spot for lunch or dinner. Winery tours start on the hour daily from
10am to 6pm.
If you turn off Highway 55 and go down York Road, you’ll reach
Château des Charmes, west of St. David’s (& 905/262-5202; www.
chateaudescharmes.com). The winery was built to resemble a French
manor house, and its architecture is unique in the region. One-hour
tours are given daily. Open from 10am to 6pm year-round.
To reach the Konzelmann Winery, 1096 Lakeshore Rd. (& 905/9352866; www.konzelmannwines.com), take Mary Street out of Niagaraon-the-Lake. This vintner is famous for its award-winning ice wines. It
offers tours from May to late September, Monday through Saturday.
Mississauga St.
Butler St.
Simcoe St.
John St.
Victoria St.
Gate St.
Anne St.
7
8
Wellington St.
0.25 km
1/4 mi
18
Melville St.
0
0
Nelles St.
Castlereagh St.
17
St.
Platoff St.
10 14 13 Picton
9 11 12 16
N
19
N
Lake Ontario
Niagara-onthe-Lake
TORONTO
20 km
20 mi
Hamilton
USA
CANADA
Niagara Falls
0
0
20
Niagara River
Niagara Parkway
Mary St.
Centre St.
Gage St.
Johnson St.
3
Byron St.
St.
William St.
4 5 6
Queen St.
2
Prideaux St.
15
St.
Ricardo St.
Delatre
Davy
ATTRACTIONS & SHOPPING
Court House/Court House Theatre 9
Fort George National Historic Park 20
Greaves Jam 6
Loyalist Village 12
Maple Leaf Fudge 11
Niagara Apothecary Shop 13
Niagara Historical Society Museum 8
The Owl & the Pussycat 10
Royal George Theatre 4
Shaw Festival Theatre 18
Shaw Shop 5
1
Front St.
Lake Ontario
Ball St.
DINING
The Buttery 14
Fans Court 2
Ristorante Giardino 3
ACCOMMODATIONS
Gate House Hotel 3
Moffat Inn 17
Oban Inn 1
The Old Bank House 15
Pillar & Post Inn 7
Prince of Wales Hotel 16
Queen’s Landing Inn 19
Niagara-on-the-Lake
King St.
Regent St.
Dorchester St.
229
230
SIGHTS
Fort George National Historic Park
It’s easy to imagine taking shelter
behind Fort George’s stockade fence and watching for the enemy from across
the river—even though today there are only condominiums on the opposite
riverbank.
The fort played a key role in the War of 1812, before the Americans invaded
and destroyed it in May 1813. Although rebuilt by 1815, it was abandoned in
1828 and not reconstructed until the 1930s. You can view the guardroom (with
its hard plank beds), the officers’ quarters, the enlisted men’s quarters, and the
sentry posts. The self-guided tour includes interpretive films. Those who believe
in ghosts, take note: The fort is one of Ontario’s favorite “haunted” sites.
Niagara Pkwy. & 905/468-6614. Admission C$6 (US$4.20) adults, C$5 (US$3.50) seniors, C$4 (US$2.80)
children 6–16, free for children 5 and under, C$20 ($14) family (2 adults, 2 children). Apr 1–Oct 31 Daily
10am–5pm.
More than 20,000 artifacts pertaining to local history make up this collection. They include many possessions of
United Empire Loyalists who first settled the area at the end of the American
Revolution. It’s interesting, but then again I’m a history geek. If you’re like me,
allow 11⁄ 2 hours for your visit.
Niagara Historical Society Museum
43 Castlereagh St. (at Davy). & 905/468-3912. Admission C$6 (US$4.20) adults, C$4 (US$2.80) seniors,
C$3 (US$2.10) students with ID, C$1 (US70¢) children 5–12. May–Oct daily 10am–5pm; Mar–Apr and
Nov–Dec daily 1–5pm; Jan–Feb Sat–Sun 1–5pm.
A N O S TA L G I C S H O P P I N G S T R O L L
A stroll along the town’s main artery, Queen Street, will take you by some entertaining, albeit touristy, shops. The Niagara Apothecary Shop, at no. 5 (& 905/
468-3845), dates to 1866. Gold-leaf script marks its original black-walnut counters and the contents of the drawers, and the original glass and ceramic apothecary
ware is on display. Loyalist Village, no. 12 (& 905/468-7331), stocks Canadian
clothes and crafts, including Inuit art, native Canadian decoys, and sheepskins.
Maple Leaf Fudge, no. 14 (& 905/468-2211), offers more than 20 varieties that
you can watch being made on marble slabs. At no. 16 is a charming toy store, The
Owl and the Pussycat (& 905/468-3081). At no. 35 is Greaves Jam (& 905/
468-7331), run by fourth-generation jam makers. The Shaw Shop (& 800/5117429), no. 79, next to the Royal George Theatre, carries GBS memorabilia and
more. There’s also a Dansk outlet and several galleries selling contemporary Canadian and other ethnic crafts.
J E T- B O AT I N G T H R I L L S
Jet boat excursions leave from the dock across from 61 Melville St. at the King
George III Inn. Don a rain suit, poncho, and life jacket, and climb aboard. The
boat takes you out onto the Niagara River for a trip along the stonewalled
canyon to the whirlpool downriver. The ride starts slow but gets into turbulent
water. Trips, which operate from May to October, last an hour and cost C$54
(US$38) for adults, and C$44 (US$31) for children 13 and under. Reservations
are required. Call the Whirlpool Jet Boat Company at & 888/438-4444 or
905/468-4800, or visit www.whirlpooljet.com.
WHERE TO STAY
In summer, hotel space is in high demand, but don’t despair if you’re having trouble nailing down a room. Contact the Chamber of Commerce, which provides an
accommodations-reservations service. Note that several of the hotels in town are
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owed by the same company, Vintage Inns (the company is famous
for buying upscale properties and making them even more luxurious). However,
there are 120 bed-and-breakfasts around town to choose from, too. The Niagaraon-the-Lake Chamber of Commerce (& 905/468-4263; www.niagaraon-the-lake.com/visit.html) provides information about them and can help you
find a place to stay.
IN TOWN
Expensive
Gate House Hotel
Unlike many of the Canadiana-influenced lodgings in
town, the Gate House Hotel is decorated in cool, clean-lined Milanese style.
Guest rooms have a marbleized look, accented with ultramodern black lamps,
block marble tables, leatherette couches, and bathrooms with sleek Italian fixtures. The effect is quite glamorous. Ristorante Giardino, one of the best places
to dine in town, is in the hotel.
142 Queen St. (P.O. Box 1364), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 905/468-3263. www.gatehouse-niagara.
com. 10 units. C$170–$185 (US$119–$130) double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge.
In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
Oban Inn
In a prime location overlooking the lake, the Oban Inn is a
lovely place to stay. It’s in a charming white Victorian house with a green
dormer-style roof and windows, plus a large veranda. (The house is a re-creation
of the original 1824 structure, which burned down in 1992.) The gorgeous gardens are the source of the bouquets throughout the house. Downstairs is a piano
bar with leather Windsor-style chairs and a fireplace.
Each of the comfortable rooms is unique. They are furnished with antique
reproductions—cornhusk four-poster beds with candlewick spreads, ginger-jar
lamps, and club-style sofas. It’s all very homey and old-fashioned. Note that the
inn no longer allows pets in the rooms.
160 Front St. (at Gate St.), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 888/669-5566 or 905/468-2165. www.vintage
inns.com. 22 units. From C$195 (US$137) double. Packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.
Amenities: Piano bar; lounge; access to nearby health club; bike rental; babysitting. In room: A/C, TV, dataport,
hair dryer, iron.
Pillar & Post Inn The discreetly elegant Pillar & Post is a couple of blocks from
the maddening crowds on Queen Street. In recent years it has been transformed
into one of the most sophisticated accommodations in town, complete with a spa
that offers the latest in deluxe treatments and a Japanese-style warm mineral-spring
pool, complete with cascading waterfall (spa packages are available). The light, airy
lobby boasts a fireplace, lush plantings, and comfortable seating. The style is classic Canadiana: The spacious rooms all contain old-fashioned furniture, Windsorstyle chairs, a pine cabinet (with a color TV tucked inside), and historical
engravings. In the back, there’s a secluded pool. Some rooms facing the outdoor
pool on the ground level have bay windows and window boxes.
48 John St. (at King St.), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 888/669-5566 or 905/468-2123. Fax 905/
468-1472. www.vintageinns.com. 123 units. From C$235 (US$165) double; from C$405 (US$284) suite.
AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Pets accepted. Amenities: 2 dining rooms; wine bar; indoor pool; outdoor pool;
spa; Jacuzzi; sauna; bike rental; children’s programs; concierge; business center; dry cleaning. In room: A/C,
TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, safe.
The Prince of Wales is the most luxurious hotel
in the district. This place has it all: a central location across from the lovely gardens of Simcoe Park; full recreational facilities, including an indoor pool;
Prince of Wales Hotel
232
lounges, bars, and restaurants; and attractive rooms, beautifully decorated with
antiques or reproductions. It has a lively atmosphere yet retains the elegance and
charm of a Victorian inn. Bathrooms have bidets, and most rooms have minibars. The hotel’s original section was built in 1864; in 1999, the hotel was renovated and restored to its original glory. All rooms are nonsmoking.
6 Picton St., Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 888/669-5566 or 905/468-3246. Fax 905/468-5521. www.
vintageinns.com. 114 units. From C$295 (US$207) double. Packages available. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking C$5 (US$3.50), free self-parking. Pets accepted. Amenities: Dining room; cafe; bar; lounge; indoor pool;
health club; spa; Jacuzzi; bike rental; concierge; business center; 24-hr. room service; massage; dry cleaning.
In room: A/C, TV, dataport, hair dryer, iron.
Queen’s Landing Inn Overlooking the river and within walking distance of
the theaters, the Queen’s Landing Inn is a modern, Georgian-style mansion.
Half the rooms have fireplaces, and 32 contain fireplaces and Jacuzzis. The spacious rooms are comfortably furnished with half-canopy or brass beds, wingback
chairs, and large desks. This hotel attracts a business-oriented crowd, in part
because of its excellent conference facilities, which include 20 meeting rooms.
155 Byron St., at Melville St., (P.O. Box 1180), Niagara-on-the Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 888/669-5566 or 905/
468-2195. www.vintageinns.com. 144 units. From C$235 (US$165) double; from C$405 (US$284) suite.
AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Dining room; lounge; indoor pool; health club; Jacuzzi; sauna;
bike rental; concierge; business center; 24-hr.room service; babysitting; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.
Not far from Niagara-on-theLake, White Oaks is a sports enthusiast’s paradise. Across from the resort is the
Royal Niagara golf course, which consists of three 9-hole courses that are meant
to be played in combinations (it’s like having three different 18-hole courses). In
2000, the resort added a full-service luxury spa, which has become one of its
main attractions. It’s entirely possible to arrive here, be caught in a flurry of athletic activity all weekend, and not set foot outside the resort. The rooms are as
good as the facilities, with oak furniture, vanity sinks, and niceties like a phone
in the bathroom. Suites have brick fireplaces, marble-top desks, Jacuzzis (some
heart-shaped), and bidets. All of the guest rooms have been soundproofed.
The long list of spa treatments for men and women includes facials, massages,
body wraps, and manicures. Some of the less orthodox therapies include reiki
(a Japanese massage to “align your energy field”), and Danse de la Mains, a massage choreographed to music and performed by two therapists.
White Oaks Conference Resort & Spa
Taylor Rd., Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 800/263-5766 or 905/688-2550. Fax 905/688-2220. www.
whiteoaksresort.com. 220 units. July–Aug from C$160 (US$112) double; C$190 (US$133) suite. Off-season
discounts available. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. From QEW, exit at Glendale Ave. Amenities:
Restaurant/wine bar; outdoor terrace cafe; coffee shop; 8 tennis courts; 5 squash courts; 2 racquetball courts;
health club; spa; sauna; bike rental; children’s center; concierge; business center; massage. In room: A/C, TV,
dataport, hair dryer.
Moderate
This is a fine choice in a convenient location. Most rooms contain brass-framed beds and furnishings in traditional-style wood, wicker, and
bamboo. Each has a teakettle and supplies. Eight rooms have fireplaces. Free coffee is available in the lobby. Smoking is allowed at the bar only.
Moffat Inn
60 Picton St. (at Queen St.), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 905/468-4116. www.moffatinn.com. 22
units. Apr 15–Oct and late Dec C$95–$169 (US$67–$118) double; Nov to mid-Dec and Jan–Apr 14
C$69–$139 (US$48–$97) double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; access to nearby
health club. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer.
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Beautifully situated down by the river, this twostory Georgian was built in 1817 as the first branch of the Bank of Canada. All
of the guest rooms and bathrooms were refurbished and redecorated in 2001.
Several tastefully decorated units have private entrances; one is the charming
Garden Room, which also has a private trellised deck. Eight units have a refrigerator and coffee or tea supplies. The most expensive suite accommodates four
in two bedrooms. The extraordinarily comfortable sitting room (open to all
guests) holds a fireplace and eclectic antique pieces.
The Old Bank House
10 Front St. (P.O. Box 1708), Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON L0S 1J0. & 877-468-7136 or 905/468-7136; www.old
bankhouse.com. 9 units. C$125–$195 (US$88–$137) double; C$230 (US$161) 2-bedroom suite. Rates include
breakfast. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Jacuzzi. In room: A/C, no phone.
ALONG THE WINE ROAD
In the village of Jordan, about 30km (18 miles) from
Inn on the Twenty
Niagara-on-the-Lake, this modern accommodation consists entirely of handsome suites. Each has an elegantly furnished living room with a fireplace, and a
Jacuzzi in the bathroom. Seven are duplexes—one of them, the deluxe loft, has
two double beds on its second level—and five are single-level suites with high
ceilings. All of the suites are non-smoking. The inn’s eatery, On the Twenty
Restaurant & Wine Bar (p. 235), is across the street.
3845 Main St., Jordan, ON L0R 1S0. & 800/701-8074 or 905/562-5336. www.innonthetwenty.com. 30 units.
From C$221 (US$155) suite. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. From QEW, take Jordan Rd. exit south; at first intersection, turn right onto 4th Ave., then right onto Main St. Amenities: Restaurant; nearby golf course; health
club; concierge. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.
WHERE TO DINE
IN TOWN
In addition to the listings below, don’t forget the dining rooms at the Pillar &
Post, Queen’s Landing, and the Prince of Wales, all listed above.
The stylish Shaw Cafe and Wine Bar, 92 Queen St. (& 905/468-4772),
serves lunch and light meals, and has a patio. The Epicurean, 84 Queen St.
(& 905/468-3408), offers hearty soups, quiches, sandwiches, and other fine
dishes in a sunny Provence-inspired dining room. Service is cafeteria style. Half
a block off Queen Street, the Angel Inn, 224 Regent St. (& 905/468-3411), is
a delightfully authentic English pub. For an inexpensive down-home breakfast,
go to the Stagecoach Family Restaurant, 45 Queen St. (& 905/468-3133). It
also serves basic family fare, such as burgers, fries, and meatloaf, but doesn’t
accept credit cards. Niagara Home Bakery, 66 Queen St. (& 905/468-3431),
is the place to stop for chocolate-date squares, cherry squares, croissants, cookies, and individual quiches.
The Buttery CANADIAN/ENGLISH/CONTINENTAL The Buttery has
been a dining landmark for years. At its weekend Henry VIII feasts, “serving
wenches” bring food and wine while “jongleurs” and “musickers” entertain. The
meal consists of “four removes”—courses involving broth, chicken, roast lamb,
roast pig, sherry trifle, syllabub, and cheese, all washed down with a goodly
amount of wine, ale, and mead.
The tavern menu features spareribs, 8-ounce New York strip, shrimp in garlic sauce, and such English pub fare as lamb curry and steak, kidney, and mushroom pie. On the dinner menu, I highly recommend rack of lamb or shrimp
curry. Finish with mud pie or Grand Marnier chocolate cheesecake. You can take
home fresh baked goods—pies, strudels, dumplings, cream puffs, or scones.
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19 Queen St. & 905/468-2564. Reservations strongly recommended; required for Henry VIII feast. Henry
VIII feast C$49 (US$34); tavern main courses (available Tues–Sun 11am–5pm, all day Mon) C$8–$15
(US$5.60–$11); dinner main courses C$14–$22 (US$9.80–$15). MC, V. Apr–Nov daily 11am–11pm; Dec–Mar
Sun–Thurs 11am–7:30pm. Afternoon tea year-round daily 2–5pm.
Fans Court CHINESE This comfortable spot, decorated with fans, cushioned
bamboo chairs, and round tables spread with golden tablecloths, serves some of
the best food in town. In summer, there’s outdoor dining in the courtyard. The
cuisine is primarily Cantonese and Szechwan. The menu includes Singapore beef,
moo shu pork, Szechwan scallops, and lemon chicken.
135 Queen St. & 905/468-4511. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$13–$20 (US$9.10–$14).
AE, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–9pm.
NORTHERN ITALIAN On the ground floor of
the Gate House Hotel is this sleek, ultramodern restaurant, with a gleaming
marble-top bar and brass accents throughout. The food is Northern Italian with
fresh American accents. Main courses might include baked salmon seasoned
with olive paste and tomato concasse, veal tenderloin marinated with garlic and
rosemary, and braised pheasant in juniper-berry-and-vegetable sauce. There are
several pasta dishes, plus such appealing appetizers as medallions of langostine
garnished with orange and fennel salad. Desserts include a fine tiramisu, and
panna cotta with seasonal berries.
Ristorante Giardino
In the Gate House Hotel, 142 Queen St. & 905/468-3263. www.gatehouse-niagara.com. Main courses
C$25–$40 (US$18–$28). AE, MC, V. May–Sept daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm; Oct–Apr daily 5:30–9pm.
I N N E A R B Y V I R G I L , S T. C AT H A R I N E S & W E L L A N D
Café Garibaldi ITALIAN This relaxed spot is a favorite among locals. It
serves Italian staples such as zuppa di pesce and veal scalloppine; homemade
lasagna is the most requested dish. The wine list features the local vintners’
goods and some fine bottles from Italy.
375 St. Paul St., St. Catharines. & 905/988-9033. Reservations recommended for dinner. Main courses
C$13–$27 (US$9.10–$19). AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–10pm. From QEW, exit at Ontario
St., follow DOWNTOWN sign to St. Paul St. and turn left.
Hennepin’s CONTEMPORARY The region’s first tapas bar, Hennepin’s still
stands out. The dining rooms display the works of local artists. The specialty of the
house is Mediterranean- and Asian-inspired tapas—coconut shrimp, olive-stuffed
meatballs, chicken satay, samosas—which are served all day. At dinner, starters
always include such temptations as escargots in Pernod, and pan-seared game pâté
with blueberry kirsch sauce. Game and serious meats dominate the main courses—
venison bordelaise, liver in chausseur sauce, steak, and pork tenderloin with portobello Calvados sauce. The desserts are seriously rich—try the death by chocolate
cake. The wine list is extensive; 28 selections are available by the glass.
1486 Niagara Stone Rd. (Hwy. 55), at Creek Rd., Virgil. & 905/468-1555. Tapas C$4–$8 (US$2.80–$5.60);
main courses C$15–$28 (US$11–$20). AE, MC, V. Sun–Wed 11:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. From
QEW, exit at York Rd., turn left, follow to Niagara Stone Rd., turn right.
JAPANESE Chef Yasutoshi Hachoitori has had a virtual monopoly
since he opened this eatery: Iseya is one of the region’s few traditional Japanese
restaurants. The restaurant attracts locals as well as out-of-towners. It serves fresh
sushi and sashimi as well as teriyaki, tempura, and sukiyaki dishes. The classic
Japanese cuisine doesn’t offer a lot of surprises, but everything is beautifully
done.
Iseya
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22 James St. (between St. Paul and King sts.), St. Catharines. & 905/688-1141. Reservations recommended
for dinner. Main courses C$12–$27 (US$8.40–$19). AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Sat 5–11pm.
From QEW, exit at St. Paul St., turn right, follow to St. James St., turn right.
Rinderlin’s CONTINENTAL
An intimate town-house restaurant, Rinderlin’s has evolved from a traditional French restaurant to one with a Continental
flair. On the dinner menu, you might find sautéed shrimps and scallops in
medium-hot curry sauce on a bed of basmati rice; roast pork tenderloin with
honey-mustard-bacon sauce; herb polenta with grilled bell pepper, eggplant and
zucchini; and local venison with wild mushrooms and game sauce. There are
also several vegetarian options. Desserts are seasonal—one favorite is the white
chocolate torte flavored with brandy and served with raspberry sauce.
24 Burgar St., Welland. & 905/735-4411. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$21–$30
(US$15–$21). AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–1:30pm; daily 6–8pm. From QEW, take Hwy. 406 to Burgar
St. exit, turn left.
Wellington Court Restaurant CONTINENTAL In an Edwardian town
house with a flower trellis, the dining rooms here sport contemporary decor with
modern lithographs and photographs. The menu features daily specials along
with such items as beef tenderloin in shallot-and-red-wine reduction, roasted
breast of chicken on gingered plum preserves, and grilled sea bass with cranberry
vinaigrette.
11 Wellington St., St. Catharines. & 905/682-5518. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–$28
(US$14–$20). MC, V. Tues–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm. From QEW, exit at St. Paul St., turn right, follow to Wellington Ave., turn left.
ALONG THE WINE ROAD
Hillebrand’s Vineyard Café CONTINENTAL
This dining room is light
and airy, and its floor-to-ceiling windows offer views over the vineyards to the
distant Niagara Escarpment, or of wine cellars bulging with oak barrels. The
food is excellent. The seasonal menu might feature such dishes as poached
Arctic char with shellfish ragout, or prosciutto-wrapped pheasant breast atop
linguine tossed with mushrooms, roasted eggplant, and shallot. The starters are
equally luxurious. Try roasted three-peppercorn pear served warm with salad
greens, pine nuts, and Parmesan slivers, or spiced goat cheese and grilled portobello “sandwich” with walnuts and endive. My favorite among the irresistible
desserts is chocolate tortellini.
Hwy. 55, between Niagara-on-the-Lake and Virgil. & 905/468-7123. www.hillebrand.com. Main courses
C$24–$35 (US$17–$25). AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–11pm (closes earlier in winter).
CANADIAN This restaurant is
a favorite among foodies. The gold-painted dining rooms cast a warm glow. The
cuisine features ingredients from many producers, giving On the Twenty a smalltown feel. Naturally, there’s an extensive selection of Ontario wines, including
some wonderful ice wines to accompany such desserts as lemon tart and fruit
cobbler. Inn on the Twenty is associated with the Vintner’s Inn (p. 233), across
the street.
On the Twenty Restaurant & Wine Bar
At Cave Spring Cellars, 3836 Main St., Jordan. & 905/562-7313. www.innonthetwenty.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses C$22–$40 (US$15–$28). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 5–10pm.
Vineland Estates
CONTINENTAL This inspired eatery serves some
of the most innovative food along the wine trail. On warm days you can dine
on a deck under a spreading tree, or stay in the airy dining room. Start with a
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plate of seasoned mussels in a ginger broth. Follow with a Canadian Angus tenderloin with a risotto of truffles and morel mushrooms, or go for pan-seared
sweetbreads with a celeriac and potato mash and confit of mushrooms glazed
with ice wine. For dessert, there’s a wonderful tasting plate of Canadian farm
cheeses, including Abbey St. Benoit blue Ermite.
3620 Moyer Rd., Vineland. & 888/846-3526 or 905/562-7088. www.vineland.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$20–$40 (US$14–$28). AE, MC, V. Daily noon–2:30pm and 5:30–9pm.
ALONG THE NIAGARA PARKWAY
The Niagara Parkway, on the Canadian side of the falls, is a gem. Unlike the
American side, it abounds with natural wonders, including vast expanses of
parkland. You can drive along the 56km (35-mile) parkway all the way from
Niagara-on-the-Lake to Niagara Falls on the parkway, taking in attractions en
route. Here are the major ones, listed in the order that you’ll encounter them:
• The Great Gorge Adventure, 4330 River Rd. (& 905/374-1221): The scenic boardwalk runs beside the raging white waters of the Great Gorge
Rapids. Stroll along and wonder how it must have felt to challenge this
mighty torrent, where the river rushes through the narrow channel at an
average speed of 35kmph (22 mph). Admission is C$5.75 (US$4) for
adults, C$2.90 (US$2) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under.
• The Whirlpool Aero Car (& 905/354-5711): This red-and-yellow cablecar contraption that whisks you on a 1,097m (3,600-ft.) jaunt between two
points in Canada. High above the Niagara Whirlpool, you’ll enjoy excellent
views of the surrounding landscape. Admission is C$6 (US$4.20) for adults,
C$3 (US$2.10) for children 6 to 12, free for kids 5 and under. Open daily
May to the third Sunday in October. Hours are from 9am to 6pm in May,
9am to 8pm in June, 9am to 9pm in July and August, 10am to 7:30pm in
September, and 9am to 5pm in October.
• The School of Horticulture (& 905/356-8119): Stop here for a free view
of the vast gardens and a look at the Floral Clock, which contains 25,000
plants in its 12m-diameter (40-ft.) face. The new Butterfly Conservatory
is also in the gardens. In this lush tropical setting, more than 2,000 butterflies (50 international species) float and flutter among such nectar-producing flowers as lantanas and pentas. The large bright blue luminescent
Morpho butterflies from Central and South America are particularly gorgeous. Interpretive programs and other presentations take place in the auditorium and two smaller theaters. The native butterfly garden outside attracts
the more familiar swallowtails, fritillaries, and painted ladies. Admission is
C$8.50 (US$5.95) for adults, C$4 (US$2.80) for children 6 to 12, free for
children 5 and under. The school opens at 9am daily. It closes at 8pm in
May and June; 9pm in July and August; 6pm in March, April, September,
and October; and 5pm from November through February. It’s closed
December 25.
• Queenston Heights Park: This is the site of a famous War of 1812 battle,
and you can take a walking tour of the battlefield. Picnic or play tennis (for
C$6/US$4.20 per hour) in the shaded arbor before moving to the Laura
Secord Homestead, Partition Street, Queenston (& 905/262-4851). This
heroic woman threaded enemy lines to alert British authorities to a surprise
attack by American soldiers during the War of 1812. Her home contains a
fine collection of Upper Canada furniture from the period, plus artifacts
recovered from an archaeological dig. Stop at the candy shop and ice-cream
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Moments The Falls by Night
Don’t miss seeing the falls after dark. Twenty-two xenon gas spotlights,
each producing 250 million candlepower of light, illuminate them in shades
of rose pink, red magenta, amber, blue, and green. Call & 800/563-2557 (in
the U.S.) or 905/356-6061 for schedules. The show starts around 5pm in winter, 8:30pm in spring and fall, and 9pm in summer. In addition, from July to
early September, free fireworks start at 10pm every Friday.
parlor. Tours run every half hour. Admission is C$2 (US$1.40). Open late
May through Labour Day daily from 10am to 6pm.
• Fruit farms, like Kurtz Orchards (& 905/468-2937), and wineries such as
the Inniskillin Winery, Line 3, Service Road 66 (& 905/468-3554 or
905/468-2187): You’ll find peaches, apples, pears, nectarines, cherries,
plums and strawberries at Kurtz; you can tour the 80 acres on a tractorpulled tram. Inniskillin is open daily from 10am to 6pm June through
October, and Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm November
through May. The self-guided free tour has 20 stops that explain the winemaking process. A free guided tour, offered daily in summer and Saturday
only in winter, begins at 2:30pm.
• Historic Fort Erie, 350 Lakeshore Rd., Fort Erie (& 905/871-0540): It’s a
reconstruction of the fort that was seized by the Americans in July 1814,
besieged later by the British, and finally blown up as the Americans retreated
across the river to Buffalo. Guards in period costume stand sentry duty, fire
the cannons, and demonstrate drill and musket practice. Open daily from
10am to 6pm from the first Saturday in May to mid-September, and weekends only to Canadian Thanksgiving (U.S. Columbus Day). Admission is
C$6.50 (US$4.55) for adults, C$4 (US$2.80) for children 6 to 16, free for
children 5 and under.
SEEING NIAGARA FALLS
You simply cannot come this far and not see the falls, which are the seventh natural wonder of the world. The most exciting way to do that is from the decks of
the Maid of the Mist
, 5920 River Rd. (& 905/358-5781; www.maid
ofthemist.com). The sturdy boat takes you right in—through the turbulent
waters around the American Falls, past the Rock of Ages, and to the foot of the
Horseshoe Falls, where 34.5 million imperial gallons of water tumble over the
54m-high (176-ft.) cataract each minute. You’ll get wet, and your glasses will
mist, but that won’t detract from the thrill. Boats leave from the dock on the
parkway just down from the Rainbow Bridge. Trips operate daily from mid-May
to mid-October. Fares are C$13 (US$9.10) for adults, and C$8 (US$5.60) for
children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under.
Go down under the falls using the elevator at Table Rock House, which drops
you 46m (150 ft.) through solid rock to the tunnels and viewing portals of the
Journey Behind the Falls (& 905/354-1551). You’ll receive—and appreciate—a rain poncho. Admission is C$7.50 (US$5.25) for adults, C$3.75
(US$2.60) for children 6 to 12, free for children 5 and under.
You can ride the external glass-fronted elevators 159m (520 ft.) to the top of
the Skylon Tower Observation Deck, 5200 Robinson St. (& 905/356-2651;
www.skylon.com). The observation deck is open daily from 8am to midnight
238
from June to Labour Day; hours vary in other seasons, so call ahead. Adults pay
C$9.50 (US$6.65), seniors C$8.50 (US$5.95), children 12 and under C$5.50
(US$3.85). There is a revolving restaurant here but be warned that it’s something of a tourist trap, with a C$20 (US$14) minimum per adult charge at
lunch and a C$36.50 (US$26) minimum charge at dinner (there is a separate
menu for kids). Also there’s a C$2 (US$1.40) per person fee just for the elevator ride to the restaurant. Do the math and you’ll see that it adds up to a pretty
expensive proposition for a family to eat here.
For a different view of Niagara Falls, stop by the IMAX Theater, 6170
Buchanan Ave. (& 905/358-3611; www.imaxniagara.com). You can view the
raging, swirling waters in Niagara: Miracles, Myths, and Magic, shown on a sixstory-high screen. Admission is C$12 (US$8.40) for adults and students,
C$8.50 (US$5.95) for seniors, C$6.50 (US$4.55) for children 4 to 12; free for
children 3 and under. I have to say that I consider this a lot of money to pay for
a movie that is only 45 minutes long. Still, I’m an IMAX fan, and I have to
admit the film looks great.
The falls are also exciting in winter, when the ice bridge and other formations
are quite remarkable.
W H E R E T O S TAY & D I N E N E A R T H E FA L L S
While Niagara-on-the-Lake is a far more scenic and charming option, you may
find yourself staying overnight in Niagara Falls. One good hotel bet is the Sheraton on the Falls, 5875 Falls Ave. (& 888/229-9961 or 905/374-4445), which
offers rooms with a truly gorgeous view; many have balconies. Rates start around
A Family Adventure
If you’re looking for something to keep the kiddies amused, visit
MarineLand , 7657 Portage Rd. (& 905/356-9565; www.marineland
canada.com). At the aquarium-theater, King Waldorf, the walrus mascot, presides over performances by killer whales, dolphins, and sea lions.
Friendship Cove, a 4.5-million-gallon breeding and observation tank, lets
the little ones see killer whales up close. Another aquarium features displays of freshwater fish. At the small wildlife display, kids enjoy petting
and feeding the deer and seeing bears and Canadian elk.
Marineland also has theme-park rides, including a roller coaster, a
Tivoli wheel (a fancy Ferris wheel), and Dragon Boat rides, and a fully
equipped playground. The big thriller is Dragon Mountain, a roller
coaster that loops, double-loops, and spirals through 305m (1,000 ft.)
of tunnels. There are three restaurants, or you can picnic.
In summer, admission is C$33 (US$23) for adults and children 10 and
over, C$28 (US$20) for seniors and children 5 to 9, and free for children
4 and under. Open daily July and August from 9am to 6pm; mid-April
to mid-May and September to mid-October from 10am to 4pm; and
mid-May to June from 10am to 5pm. Closed November through April.
Rides open in late May and close the first Monday in October. In town,
drive south on Stanley Street and follow the signs; from the QEW, take
the McCleod Rd. exit.
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Whirlpool Bridge 4
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240
Niagara Parkway Commission Restaurants
The Niagara Parkway Commission has commandeered the most spectacular scenic spots, where it operates reasonably priced dining outlets. They serve traditional family-style food at lunch and dinner, and
do not accept reservations. Table Rock Restaurant (& 905/354-3631)
and Victoria Park Restaurant (& 905/356-2217), on the parkway right
by the falls, are both pleasant, if crowded. Diner on the Green (& 905/
356-7221) is also on the parkway, at the Whirlpool Golf Course near
Queenston. It’s very plain.
The star of the Niagara Parkway Commission’s eateries is Queenston
Heights, 14275 Niagara Pkwy. (& 905/262-4274). Set in the park
among firs, cypresses, silver birches, and maples, the open-air balcony
affords a magnificent view of the lower Niagara River and the rich
fruit-growing land through which it flows. Or you can sit under the
cathedral ceiling in a room where the flue of the stone fireplace
reaches to the roof. Dinner options might include fillet of Atlantic
salmon with Riesling-chive hollandaise, prime rib, or grilled pork with
apples and cider–Dijon mustard sauce. Afternoon tea is served from
3 to 5pm in the summer. If nothing else, go for a drink on the deck and
enjoy the terrific view.
C$120 (US$84) in the winter and C$200 (US$140) in summer for a double
room. If you’re more interested in gambling than a view, check out The Skyline
Inn, 5685 Falls Ave. (& 800/263-7135 or 905/374-4444), which is right by
Casino Niagara. Rates here start at C$75 (US$53) per night.
Dining is not one of Niagara Falls’ strengths. There are lots of options, but they
tend to be overpriced. One interesting option is the Pinnacle, 6732 Oakes Dr.
(& 905/356-1501), which offers a Continental menu and a remarkable view
from the top of the Minolta Tower. Casa d’Oro, 5875 Victoria Ave. (& 905/
356-5646), brings a wealth of kitsch (gilt busts of Caesar, Venetian-style lamps,
statues of Roman gladiators) with its Italian cooking. Betty’s Restaurant & Tavern, 8921 Sodom Rd. (& 905/295-4436), is an inexpensive spot that serves up
hearty portions of comfort food.
3 The Muskoka Lakes
Just a 90-minute drive north of Toronto, the Muskoka region has been a magnet for visitors since the 19th century. While the area proved futile for farming
(it’s located on the Canadian Shield, where you need only dig a foot or two in
some places to come up against sheets of granite), its more than 1,600 lakes,
unspoiled wilderness and laid-back attitude made it an excellent place for a
retreat. In the past decade, Muskoka’s charms have expanded to include excellent golf courses, soothing spas and top-notch restaurants. While the region is at
its most popular in summer, when families congregate at the resorts and Hollywood celebrities like Goldie Hawn and Tom Hanks lounge at their lakefront
“cottages,” this is a great area to visit at any time of the year.
Once accessible only by the water, Muskoka is still a boater’s dream. The
region also has several towns of note: Gravenhurst, Bracebridge, Port Carling,
The Muskoka Lakes Region
To Georgian Bay
Provincial Forest
Parry Sound
Rosseau
117
Port Carling
Bracebridge
169
69
Honey
Harbour
Lake
Muskoka
93
N
Port Severn
Victoria Harbour
Port
McNicoll
400
Elmvale
27
Stayner
35
503
11
Orillia
Head
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169
503
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Craigleith
Wasaga
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Lake
Simcoe
26
91
20 km
Cooper Falls
12
92
26
20 mi
0
Gravenhurst
0
Penetanguishene
Midland 12
Midhurst
Creemore
400 11
27
To Toronto
Fenelon Falls
12
46
Barrie
24
118
Cedar Point
Collingwood
35
118
Go Home
Craighurst
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Bays
Lake
Rosseau
MacTier
Georgian
Bay
Christian
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Huntsville
11
141
60
Oxtongue
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Ravenscliff
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Joseph
Georgian Bay Islands
National Park
To Algonquin
Provincial Park
To North Bay
518
Lindsay
48
Cannington
7
Sutton
Huntsville and Bala. Located a few kilometers apart, these communities date
back to the 1850s, when logging was Muskoka’s primary industry. Filled with
historic sites and more modern attractions, it’s well worth devoting a day or two
to explore them (fortunately, they are all easily reachable by car these days).
ESSENTIALS
GETTING THERE You can drive from the south via Highway 400 to Highway 11, from the east via highways 12 and 169 to Highway 11, and from the
north via Highway 11. It’s about 160km (100 miles) from Toronto to Gravenhurst, 15km (9 miles) from Gravenhurst to Bracebridge, 25km (151⁄ 2 miles)
from Bracebridge to Port Carling, and 34km (21 miles) from Bracebridge to
Huntsville. VIA Rail (& 416/366-8411; www.viarail.ca) services Gravenhurst,
Bracebridge, and Huntsville from Toronto’s Union Station. There is also an airport about 18km (11 miles) from Gravenhurst, which is used mainly for small
aircraft. There are several other landing strips, and a helicopter-landing pad at
the Deerhurst Resort in Huntsville.
VISITOR INFORMATION For information on the region, contact
Muskoka Tourism, on Highway 11 at Severn Bridge, RR #2, Kilworthy, ON,
P0E 1G0 (& 800/267-9700 or 705/689-0660; www.muskoka-tourism.on.ca).
GETTING AROUND While you won’t need a car if you plan to stay close to
your resort while you’re here (an entirely reasonable proposition), you will need
a car if you’re planning to do a lot of sightseeing in the area. You could take the
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train to Bracebridge, then rent a car at Budget, 1 Robert Dollar Dr. (& 705/
645-2755). There’s also a National car rental center in Huntsville on Howland
Dr. (& 705/787-1111).
EXPLORING THE TOWNS
Both Gravenhurst and Huntsville are lovely towns that are well worth a visit.
They are scenic but they also have enough shops, restaurants, and public spaces
to make them interesting. Unless you have kids, there’s not much of a reason to
linger in Bracebridge.
G R AV E N H U R S T
Gravenhurst is Muskoka’s first town—the first you reach if you’re driving from
Toronto and the first to achieve town status (in 1887 at the height of the logging boom).
The Norman Bethune Memorial House is the restored 1890 birthplace of
Dr. Norman Bethune, 235 John St. N. (& 705/687-4261). In 1939, this surgeon, inventor, and humanitarian died tending the sick in China during the
Chinese Revolution. Tours of the historic house include a modern exhibit on
Bethune’s life. A visitor center displays gifts from Chinese visitors and an orientation video is shown. In summer, the house is open daily from 10am to noon
and from 1 to 5pm (weekdays only in winter). Admission is C$3.50 (US$2.45)
adults and C$2 (US$1.40) for children 6 to 16; free for children 5 and under.
Sailing is one of Muskoka’s greatest summer pleasures. Gravenhurst is home to
the Muskoka Fleet, which includes a lovingly restored coal-powered 1887
steamship, the RMS Segwun. There are a variety of cruising options available,
such as the 1-hour tour (C$11.50/US$8.05 adults, C$7.25/US$5.10 children), a
2-1⁄ 2-hour lunch cruise (C$44/US$30 adults, C$28/$19 children), and a 4-hour
late-afternoon tour of Millionaire’s Row (C$36/US$25 adults, $30/US$21 children), where you can be dazzled by the real estate as well as the natural beauty of
the region. Advance reservations are required for all of the tours; call & 705/6876667 or visit www.muskokafleet.com for more information.
Year-round, there are theater performances at the Gravenhurst Opera House
(& 705/687-5550), which celebrates its 103rd anniversary in 2004. In summer
only, there are shows at the Port Carling Community Hall (& 705/765-5221).
For either, tickets usually cost between C$15 and C$30 (US$11–$21).
B R A C E B R I D G E : S A N TA’ S W O R K S H O P
Halfway between the equator and the North Pole, Bracebridge bills itself as
Santa’s summer home, and Santa’s Village (& 705/645-2512; www.santasvillage.
ca) is an imaginatively designed fantasyland full of delights: pedal boats and
bumper boats on the lagoon, a roller-coaster sleigh ride, a Candy Cane Express, a
carousel, and a Ferris wheel. At Elves’ Island, kids can crawl on a suspended net
and over or through various modules—the Lunch Bag Forest, Cave Crawl, and
Snake Tube Crawl. Rides, water attractions, and roving entertainers are all part of
the fun. Mid-June through Labour Day, it’s open daily from 10am to 6pm.
Admission is C$17 (US$12) ages 5 and up and C$12 (US$8) for seniors and children 2 to 4; free for children under 2.
PORT CARLING
As waterways became the main means of transportation in the region, Port Carling grew into the hub of the lakes. It became a boat-building center when a lock
was installed connecting Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau, and a canal between
Lakes Rosseau and Joseph opened all three to navigation. The Muskoka Lakes
T H E M U S KO K A L A K E S
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Museum on Joseph Street (& 705/765-5367) captures the flavor of this era.
July and August, it’s open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 5pm and
Sunday noon to 4pm; June, September, and October, hours are Tuesday through
Saturday from 10am to 4pm and Sunday from noon to 4pm. Admission is C$3
(US$2.10) adults and C$2 (US$1.40) seniors and students.
HUNTSVILLE
Since the late 1800s, lumber has been the name of the game in Huntsville, and
today it’s Muskoka’s biggest town, with major manufacturing companies. You
can see some of the region’s early history at the Muskoka Heritage Place, which
includes Muskoka Pioneer Village, 88 Brunel Rd., Huntsville (& 705/7897576; www.muskokaheritageplace.org). It’s open daily from 11am to 4pm from
mid-May to mid-October. Admission is C$10 (US$7) adults and C$7
(US$4.90) children; children 2 and under are free. Muskoka Heritage Place also
features the Portage Flyer Steam Train. Once part of the world’s smallest commercial railway, it ran from 1904 till 1958. Now it has been reborn as a tourist
attraction, and you can ride its scenic route from Tuesday through Saturday for
C$5 (US$3.50) for adults and C$3 (US$2.10) for kids.
Robinson’s General Store on Main Street in Dorset (& 705/766-2415) is so
popular it was voted Canada’s best country store. Wood stoves, dry goods, hardware, pine goods, and moccasins—you name it, it’s here.
WHERE TO STAY
Muskoka is famous for its lakes, but its resorts are renowned, too. While I normally like to wander from place to place when I travel to a particular area, I honestly think I could just stay put at one of the resorts here and be completely
entertained for a week. There are also bed-and-breakfast and country inn choices
aplenty. Contact Muskoka Tourism (& 800/267-9700 or 705/689-0660;
www.muskoka-tourism.on.ca) or the Muskoka Bed and Breakfast Association,
175 Clairmont Rd., Gravenhurst, ON, P1P 1H9 (& 705/687-4511; www.
bbmuskoka.com).
RESORTS
Deerhurst Resort
The Deerhurst first opened its doors to guests
Kids
in 1896, but its greatest expansion has occurred in the past 2 decades. Even more
recently, a C$30 million renovation that ended in late 2002 really enhanced the
property. This stunning resort complex now rambles over 800 acres, and it
boasts an array of amenities that boggles the mind: two 18-hole golf courses
(part of the Muskoka Golf Trail) and a golf academy; a full-service Aveda spa;
seemingly endless miles of nature trails for hiking (or snowmobiling or crosscountry skiing in winter); canoeing, kayaking, and all manner of water sports;
an ambitious musical revue than runs all summer; and horseback riding. (Note
that most of the activities, including golf, spa, and skiing, are available to visitors not staying at the resort.)
The accommodations here are spread out among several buildings on the property. They range from high-ceilinged hotel rooms in the Terrace and Bayshore
buildings to fully-appointed one-, two-, or three-bedroom suites, many with fireplaces and/or whirlpools. The suites come with all the comforts, including CD
players, TVs, and VCRs; some have full kitchens with microwaves, dishwashers,
and washer/dryers. The most expensive suites are the three-bedroom units on the
lake. One major draw is the top-notch Aveda spa, which has some of the most
talented therapists I’ve ever encountered. The Deerhurst is an excellent spot for a
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family vacation, though it’s also very popular with conference groups. The separate buildings make it easy to cater to cater to each.
1235 Deerhurst Dr., Huntsville, ON, P1H 2E8. & 800/461-4393 or 705/789-6411. Fax 705/789-2431. www.
deerhurstresort.com. 388 units. Summer, from C$229 (US$160) double and from C$259 (US$181) suite; rest
of the year, from C$139 (US$97) double and from C$169 (US$118) suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Free parking.
Take Canal Rd. off Hwy. 60 to Deerhurst Rd. Amenities: 2 restaurants; 2 bars; 2 indoor pools, 3 outdoor pools;
tennis courts; 2 18-hole golf courses; indoor sports complex, 3 squash courts, racquetball court; 11 Jacuzzi;
sauna; spa; concierge; business center; limited room service; children’s programs; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, minibar, hair dryer.
Grandview Inn & Resort
If the Deerhurst is for the folks on the fast track,
the Grandview is for those looking for a more measured pace. This smaller resort
retains the natural beauty and contours of the original farmstead even while
providing the latest resort facilities. Eighty accommodations are traditional hotelstyle rooms, but most units are suites in a series of buildings, some down beside
the lake and others up on the hill with a lake view. All are spectacularly furnished.
Each executive suite contains a kitchen, a dining area, a living room with a fireplace and access to an outside deck, a large bedroom, and a large bathroom with
a whirlpool bath. The main dining room, in the old farmhouse, is decorated in
paisleys and English chintz and has a patio that overlooks the gardens. Snacks are
served in summer at the Dockside Restaurant right on the lake.
RR #4, Huntsville, ON, P0A 1K0. & 705/789-4417. Fax 705/789-6882. 200 units. Summer, from C$170
(US$119) double; rest of the year, from C$100 (US$70) double. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; indoor pool; outdoor pool; 9-hole golf course; 3 tennis courts; health club. In room: A/C, TV.
Located near the town of Gravenhurst in the
Kids
southern Muskoka region, Taboo stands out for its sleek sophistication in a
bucolic setting. Known until May 2003 as Muskoka Sands, the resort’s new
name may conjure up images of a hedonistic adults-only retreat. The truth is
anything but: Taboo is a family-friendly zone, with a kids’ club that schedules
activities for every day of the week during the high season in summer. But the
fact that the resort is so willing to take care of the kiddies means that many
adults can soak up spa treatments or dine at one of the on-site restaurants without a second thought.
Taboo is best known for its golf course, which Mike Weir (Canada’s top PGA
ranked golfer), named his home course in June 2002. The course is a major stop
on the Muskoka Golf Trail. There’s also the Golf Academy for those who want
to improve their game. Another reason to come to Taboo is the excellent dining.
The resort has indulged gourmets by creating two entirely different restaurants:
Wildfire (p. 246), a serious innovator that pairs up Canadian ingredients and
Taboo Resort
Fun Fact The Shania Connection
The Deerhurst has many charms to recommend it, and whether or not you
stay there you must check out its excellent song-and-dance stage show.
Now in its 23rd year, it’s famous in part because the phenomenally talented Shania Twain performed in it for 3 years (1988–1990). Twain has
kept up her connection with the Deerhurst since, even having her wedding there. In 2002 she brought Katie Couric and a film crew from CNN to
reminisce about her days on its stage. Twain continues to visit the resort—
and when she does, she always checks out the show. Every summer the
show is different, but it is always a pleasure to see.
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Asian cooking techniques, and the Winewood, which elegantly serves up and
more traditional fare.
One of my favorite things about Taboo is that every single room, large and
small alike, has its own deck or balcony. While all of the sophisticated offerings
at the resort are excellent, nothing beats taking in the utterly serene and beautiful setting it enjoys.
Muskoka Beach Rd, R.R.#1, Gravenhurst, ON P1P 1R1. & 800/461-0236 or 705/687-2233. Fax 705/687-7474.
www.tabooresort.com. 157 units. Summer, from C$295 (US$207) double, from C$410 (US$287) suite; rest of the
year, from C$150 (US$105) double, from C$210 (US$147) suite. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; 3 outdoor pools, indoor pool; 2 golf courses (18-hole and 9-hole); 5 tennis courts; squash court; health
club; sauna; spa (in-room treatments also available); Jacuzzi; children’s program; game room; concierge; business center; limited room service; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer.
Tamwood Resort
A great choice for families, Tamwood Lodge is a moderate-size log lodge on Lake Muskoka, 10km (6 miles) west of town. The main
lodge has 35 units, all simply but nicely decorated, and there are a few cottages.
The four deluxe loft accommodations are stunningly appointed in pine, and each
features two bedrooms with skylights, plus a loft area, two baths, an efficiency
kitchen, and a living room with a Franklin stove and a balcony from which you
can dive into Lake Muskoka. Three new waterfront units come with fireplaces.
Knotty-pine furnishings and large granite fireplaces imbue the lounge and main
dining room with character. The resort offers a wealth of activities, including fishing, tennis, volleyball, badminton, and shuffleboard, plus free waterskiing and
boating, and all the winter sports imaginable. There’s also lots of organized family fun, including baseball games, marshmallow roasts, and bingo.
Hwy 118, RR #1, Bracebridge, ON, P1L 1W8. & 800/465-9166 or 705/645-5172. www.tamwoodresort.com.
35 units. From C$180 (US$126) double. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Indoor pool; nearby golf course; 3
tennis courts; spa; watersports equipment rentals; children’s programs; game room. In room: A/C, TV, fridge.
The appearance is a little bit deceiving: The
Windermere looks like a striking 1870s stone-and-clapboard turreted mansion.
In fact, the building was destroyed by fire in 1996 and rebuilt, according to its
original design, in 1997. It overlooks well-manicured lawns that sweep down to
Lake Rosseau. Out front stretches a broad veranda furnished with Adirondack
chairs and geranium-filled window boxes. Rebuilding allowed the guest rooms
to enjoy modern conveniences (including air-conditioning), while retaining a
traditional, homey look. Most of the rooms have gorgeous views (the best look
over the lake), and a few have balconies or walkout decks.
Windermere House Resort
Off Muskoka Rte. 4 (P.O. Box 68), Windermere, ON, P0B 1P0. & 800/461-4283 or 705/769-3611. Fax 705/
769-2168. www.windermerehouse.com. 78 units. From C$165 (US$116) per person. Rates include breakfast and
dinner. Weekly rates and European Plan (no meals) also available. AE, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; outdoor pool; tennis courts; golf; children’s program; limited room service; laundry service; dry
cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.
COUNTRY INNS
This attractive inn occupies a Victorian house on a quiet
Inn at the Falls
street overlooking Bracebridge Falls. The inviting gardens are filled with delphiniums, peonies, roses, and spring flowers, plus there’s an outdoor heated
pool. The guest rooms are individually decorated, with antiques and English
chintz. Some units have fireplaces, Jacuzzis, and balconies; others have views of
the falls. The Fox and Hounds is a popular local gathering place at lunch or dinner. In winter, the fire crackles and snaps, but in summer the terrace is filled with
flowers and umbrella-shaded tables. The more elegant Victoria’s serves upscale
Continental fare.
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1 Dominion St., P.O. Box 1139, Bracebridge, ON, P1L 1V3. & 877/645-9212 or 705/645-2245. Fax 705/6455093. www.innatthefalls.net. 42 units. From C$90 (US$63) double; from C$195 (US$137) suite. Rates include
breakfast. AE, DC, MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: 2 restaurants; outdoor pool; nearby golf course. In room: TV.
The Severn River Inn (19km/12 miles north of Orillia and
14km/9 miles south of Gravenhurst) occupies a 1906 building that has served
as a general store, post office, telephone exchange, and boardinghouse. The guest
rooms, which were refurbished in 2001, are individually furnished with pine
and oak pieces, brass beds, flounce pillows, lace curtains, and quilts. The suite
contains a sitting room and the original old bathtub and pedestal sink (this is
the only room with a bathtub—the others all have showers only). The intimate
restaurant, with a Victorian ambience, is candlelit at night. In summer, the
screened-in porch and outdoor patio overlooking the river are favored dining
spots. The menu features contemporary Continental cuisine.
Severn River Inn
Cowbell Lane off Hwy. 11 (P.O. Box 100), Severn Bridge, ON, P0E 1N0. & 705/689-6333. Fax 705/689-2691.
www.severnriverinn.com. 10 units. C$70–90 (US$49–$63) double; C$120–$200 (US$84–$140) suite. Rates
include breakfast. MC, V. Free parking. Amenities: Restaurant; lounge; nearby golf course. In room: A/C.
WHERE TO DINE
VERY EXPENSIVE
It’s strange to think that
Wildfire
Finds FUSION/INTERNATIONAL
some Torontoans are coming to Muskoka to eat, given the big city’s impressive culinary pedigree. But chef Michael Pataran has cooked at two of Toronto’s best
kitchens—Monsoon (p. 86) and Rain (p. 89)—so perhaps it’s no wonder that this
elegant and dramatic new restaurant is attracting gourmets from far and wide.
Wildfire does have an a la carte menu, but roughly two-thirds of its diners choose
one of the chef’s “Faith” tasting menus. These 4-, 5-, and 11-course experiences put
in the diner completely in the chef’s capable hands: They don’t list the beautifully
presented dishes, in part because Pataran believes people shouldn’t make blanket
statements like “I don’t eat seafood.” Think that you could never enjoy caribou,
salmon tartare, or eel? Think again, because it’s almost impossible to resist these
culinary masterpieces. Rest assured, you’ll love ’em all. The restaurant’s floor-toceiling windows face west, so that you can taste in the glorious sunset over the lake.
Muskoka Beach Rd., R.R.#1, Gravenhurst, ON P1P 1R1. & 705/687-2233. www.tabooresort.com. Reservations strongly recommended. Main courses C$29–$41 (US$20–$29); tasting menus start at C$80 (US$56).
AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 6–10pm.
EXPENSIVE
CANADIAN/INTERNATIONAL
Ellipsis
Recently renovated and
remodeled, Ellipsis remains a Muskoka favorite. With an expansive lake view, this
spacious dining room with a soaring ceiling of Douglas fir beams is a blend of fine
dining and casual Muskoka charm. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, the
restaurant has a lengthy menu, so it’s relatively easy to please different tastes; there
are also many vegetarian options. My favorite appetizer is the baked phyllo pastry
filled with forest mushrooms and goat cheese, but the Sizzle—the signature dish—
is the most popular (tiger shrimp sautéed in garlic, dried chiles and white wine and
baked under mozzarella). Entrees run the gamut from breast of pheasant filled
with wild rice and cranberries, to a rack of lamb rubbed with fresh herbs and sourdough crumbs and served with apple-maple compote. The wine list is just as interesting as the menu. There are 175 selections, which sounds daunting, though the
well-informed staff are ready to help you navigate through it.
1235 Deerhurst Dr., Huntsville, ON, P1H 2E8. & 705/789-6411. www.deerhurstresort.com. Reservations
recommended. Main courses C$25–$32 (US$18–$22). AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am and 5–11pm.
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Rest, Relax, Recharge
Northern Ontario is deservedly famous for its outdoor activities, from
skiing to boating, and from hiking to biking. But a growing segment
of the tourist trade in these parts is coming for another reason altogether: spas. Getting away from it all in these parts no longer automatically means going on an ice fishing expedition; it could just as
easily involve a hot rock massage (one of the latest trends). The spas
listed below aren’t targeted at women—the number of men going to
spas has increased exponentially, so spas are offering almost all of their
services to both sexes. For more information, including a free directory,
contact the Spas Ontario association at & 800/990-7702, or visit the
website at www.spasontario.com. Two of the best are at resorts:
Deerhurst Resort (p. 243): The Deerhurst thoughtfully provides children’s programs, so you can drop off the tykes before you go for your
aromatherapy massage or Ancient Dead Sea Mud Wrap (in fact, there
is a special Couple’s De-Stressor package . . . ). The emphasis here is on
total relaxation, and with all of the delicious Aveda products and
scents, it’s impossible to resist. The Deerhurst was one of the founding
members of Spas Ontario, and the standards at the spa are excellent.
The highly trained therapists are particularly talented at working out
those inevitable golf-induced kinks.
Taboo Resort (p. 244): This is the choice for those who want to lie (and
get a Swedish massage) in the lap of luxury. Because Taboo is in the
middle of building a new top-of-the-line spa on their property, many
of their spa treatments are done right in guests’ rooms. And they don’t
just roll in with a massage table—the therapists put on soothing music
and burn fragrant candles to set the scene. One of Taboo’s best offerings is a chocolate wrap, which smells delicious and gives you perfectly
soft skin (note to skeptics, the chocolate is mixed with lactic acid,
which is a great exfoliator).
3 Guys and a Stove INTERNATIONAL The name might sound casual—
and the atmosphere is indeed unpretentious—but the cooking is very fine. This is
a family restaurant (with a special menu for kids), but the gourmet quotient is
high. The curried pumpkin and sweet potato soup is an absolute must-have when
it’s on the menu; the spicy chicken stew is another surefire winner.
Hwy 60, Huntsville. & 705/789-1815. Main courses C$15–$25 (US$11–$18).AE, MC,V. Daily 11am–9:30pm.
M O D E R AT E
Blondie’s Finds
This family-run restaurant is a rare find in Muskoka. While
the menu has plenty of comfort foods—think fish and chips, prime rib, eggs
benedict, and smoked-meat sandwiches—there’s also more exotic fare, such as
sushi and a variety of seafood dishes. Blondie’s is also the official caterer to the
Gravenhurst Opera House. The setting is like a country kitchen, with its round
wooden tables and cheery decorations, and the service is just as warm.
151 Brock St., Gravenhurst. & 705/687-7756. Main courses C$10–$20 (US$7–$14). MC, V. Mon–Tues
9:30am–3pm; Wed–Sat 9:30am–8pm.
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4 Hamilton
75km (47 miles) SW of Toronto
On a landlocked harbor spanned at its entrance by the Burlington Skyway’s dramatic sweep, Hamilton has long been nicknamed “Steeltown” for its industrial
roots. Since the early 1990s however, Hamilton has been making a name for
itself with its ever-expanding list of attractions. It takes less than an hour to drive
here from Toronto, and it’s well worth a day trip for the whole family.
ESSENTIALS
VISITOR INFORMATION The Hamilton Tourist Information Centre has
been relocated to 1 James St. S., 8th Floor, Hamilton, ON L8P 4R5 (& 800/
263-8590 or 905/546-2666; www.city.hamilton.on.ca). It has a wealth of information about what to see and do, as well as where to dine and sleep. Its year-round
hours run from Monday through Friday from 9am to 5pm.
GETTING THERE Hamilton is easy to get to by car. From Toronto, take the
Queen Elizabeth Way (signs read QEW) to Hamilton. The drive will take about
an hour.
GO (Government of Ontario) Transit is a commuter train that connects
Toronto and Hamilton. Call & 800/438-6646 or 416/869-3200 for information. The John C. Munro Hamilton International Airport (& 905/679-8359;
www.hamiltonairport.com) has long been popular with cargo carriers and is now
a hub for WestJet.
WHAT TO SEE & DO
Hamilton’s downtown core is best explored on foot, though you may want a car
to visit attractions in the outlying areas.
Canadian Warplane Heritage Museum This interactive museum charts the
course of Canadian aviation from the beginning of World War II to the present.
Visitors can climb into the cockpits of WWII trainer crafts or a CF-100 jet fighter.
The most popular attractions are the flight simulators, which allow aspiring pilots
to test their flight skills. There are also short documentary films, photographs, and
other memorabilia. The aircraft on display include rarities like the Avro Lancaster
bomber and the deHavilland Vampire fighter jet. The collection also includes a
variety of military and transport craft.
9280 Airport Rd. (at the John C. Munro Hamilton International Airport), Mount Hope. & 877/347-3359 or
905/670-3347. www.warplane.com. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$8 (US$5.60) seniors and youths 8–18,
free for children 7 and under, family admission for 2 adults and 2 youths is C$30 (US$21). Daily 9am–5pm;
closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
Dundurn Castle The castle affords a glimpse of the opulent life as it was lived
in this part of southern Ontario in the mid-19th century. Sir Allan Napier MacNab, prime minister of the United Provinces of Canada in the mid-1850s and a
founder of the Great Western Railway built it between 1832 and 1835; Queen
Victoria knighted him for the part he played in the Rebellion of 1837. The
35-plus-room mansion has been restored and furnished in the style of 1855.
The gray stucco exterior, with its classical Greek portico, is impressive enough,
but inside, from the formal dining rooms to Lady MacNab’s boudoir, the furnishings are rich. The museum contains a fascinating collection of Victoriana.
In December, the castle is decorated splendidly for a Victorian Christmas.
The Hamilton Military Museum is on the grounds of Dundurn Castle. For
those who are interested, it traces Canadian military history from the War of
Hamilton
ATTRACTIONS
African Lion Safari 1
Dundurn Castle 3
Royal Botanical Gardens 2
2
1
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James St.
John St.
Upper Wellington St.
Upper James St.
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West 5th St.
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Garth St.
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Sherman Ave. N.
Main St. E.
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Upper Sherman Ave.
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Bay St.
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. W.
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TOWN OF
DUNDAS
TOWN OF
ANCASTER
Wellington St. N.
Burlington St.
Upper Wentworth St.
DINING
Canadian Warplane
Heritage Museum 6
La Cantina 5
Perry's Restaurant 4
St
ain
Hamilton
Harbour
CITY OF
BURLINGTON
LINC
20 mi
N
0
20 km
TORONTO
Lake Ontario
Niagara-onthe-Lake
Hamilton
USA
CANADA
Niagara Falls
Stone Church Rd. W.
Rymal Rd. W.
Stone Church Rd. E.
53
Rymal Rd. E.
6
1812 through World War I. Admission is included when you buy a ticket for
Dundurn Castle.
Dundurn Park, York Blvd. & 905/546-2872. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$8 (US$5.60) seniors and students with ID, C$5 (US$3.50) children 6–14, free for children 5 and under. Victoria Day to Labour Day daily
10am–4:30pm; the rest of the year, Tues–Sun noon–4pm. Closed Dec 25–26, Jan 1.
Situated just north of the city, the Royal
Botanical Gardens spreads over 1,214 glorious hectares (3,000 acres). The Rock
Garden features spring bulbs in May, summer flowers in June to September, and
chrysanthemums in October. The Laking Garden blazes during June and July
with irises, peonies, and lilies. The arboretum fills with the heady scent of lilac
from the end of May to early June, and the exquisite color bursts of rhododendrons and azaleas thereafter. The Centennial Rose Garden is at its best late June
through mid-September.
The gardens hosts many festivals during the year, including the Mediterranean Food & Wine Festival in February, the popular Ontario Garden Show in
Royal Botanical Gardens
250
early April, the Tulip Festival in May, the Rose Society Show in June, and the
Japanese Flower Society Show in September.
Should you work up an appetite while strolling the grounds, there are several
on-site dining options, including the Gardens Café, which is open year-round,
and the Rock Garden Tea House or the Turner Pavilion (both open throughout
the summer).
680 Plains Rd. W., Burlington & 905/527-1158. www.rbg.ca. Admission C$10 (US$7) adults, C$7(US$4.90)
for seniors and children 13–17, C$2.50 (US$1.75) for children 5–12, free for children 4 and under. Daily
9:30am–dusk. Closed Jan 1, Dec 25.
African Lion Safari
Just a half-hour drive northwest of Hamilton, you’ll
find a mirror image of a traditional zoo: At the African Lion Safari, visitors
remain caged in their cars or in a tour bus while the animals roam wild and free.
The 300-hectare (750-acre) wildlife park contains rhino, cheetah, lion, tiger,
giraffe, zebra, vultures, and many other species. In addition to the safari, the cost
of admission covers other attractions like the cruise aboard the African Queen,
during which a tour guide will take you around the lake and point out local
inhabitants like spider monkeys, crested macaques, and ring-tailed lemurs.
There’s also a train that will take you through a forest populated by snapping
turtles, among other wildlife.
The park has three baby Asian elephants: Samson, Albert, and George. And
the elephant-bathing event, which occurs daily, will particularly fascinate the
kids. There’s also a Pets’ Corner filled with frisky otters and pot-bellied pigs.
There are several play areas for children as well, including the Misumu Bay water
park (bring bathing suits!).
Safari Rd, Cambridge. & 800/461-WILD or 519/623-2620. www.lionsafari.com. Admission C$23 (US$16)
adults, C$19 (US$13) seniors, C$17 (US$12) children 3–12, free for children 2 and under. Late June–Labour
Day daily 10am–5:30pm; late Apr to mid-June and early Sept to early Oct, daily 9am–4pm; closed mid-Oct to
mid-Apr.
WHERE TO STAY
Because Hamilton is so close to Toronto, it’s easy to make a day trip here and back,
rather than pulling up stakes and spending the night here. However, if you do
want to stay in the area, several well-known chains have hotels here, including
Sheraton (& 800/514-7101 or 905/529-5515) and Howard Johnson (& 800/
263-8558 or 905/546-8111).
WHERE TO DINE
The suggested restaurants in St. Catharine’s and Welland, such as Café
Garibaldi, Iseya, and Rinderlin’s, are just a short drive away from Hamilton.
However, Hamilton has a few restaurants worth checking out, too.
La Cantina
This is really two restaurants in one: There’s a formal dining
room, which serves up elegant plates like veal scaloppini in a dry Marsala sauce,
and seared ostrich medallions cooked with Pinot Noir; equally elegant pasta
plates include rotini with ham and peppers in a vodka sauce. Then there’s the
casual pizzeria, which serves up more than 20 varieties of pizza, ranging from the
traditional Quattro Stagione (four seasons) with prosciutto, artichokes, olives
and mozzarella, to the unusual Gamberi, which is topped with shrimp, smoked,
salmon, olives, eggplant, and pesto. This is a very popular spot, so try to make
a reservation or arrive early, especially at lunch. If you’re very lucky, you might
just secure a seat in the restaurant’s garden patio.
60 Walnut St. S.
AE, MC, V.
& 905/521-8989. Reservations recommended. Main courses C$10–$26 (US$7–$18).
H A M I LT O N
251
Perry’s Restaurant This casual family-style restaurant has a large menu that
has something for everyone. It borrows from a range of cuisines, including Italian, French, Mexican, Greek, and American. Offerings include chicken souvlaki,
rack of ribs, hearty sandwiches, and fish and chips. There are also lighter options
such as salads, soups, and chicken fingers. There’s a sunny patio at the front of
the restaurant, too.
1088 Main St. W. & 905/527-3779. Main courses C$6–$13 (US$4.20–$9.10). MC, V. Daily 11:30am–1am.
Appendix:
Toronto in Depth
I
n less than 300 years, Toronto has grown from a trading post to a vibrant international capital. Read on to get a sense of how it happened.
1 History 101
FROM FUR TRADING POST
TO MUDDY YORK
As in most cities, the influences of
geography, trade, and communications shaped Toronto and its history.
Although the city today possesses a
downtown core, it also sprawls across
a large area—a gift of geography, for
there are no physical barriers to stop
it. When European settlement began,
the broad plain rising from Lake
Ontario to an inland ridge of hills
(around today’s St. Clair Ave.), and
stretching between the Don River in
the east and the Humber in the west,
made the location ideal.
Native Canadians had long stopped
here—at the entrance to the Toronto
Trail, a short route between the Lower
and Upper lakes. In 1615, French fur
trader Etienne Brûleé was the first
European to travel the trail. It wasn’t
until 1720 that the French established
the first trading post, known as Fort
Toronto, to intercept the furs that
were being taken across Lake Ontario
to New York State by English rivals.
Fort Rouille, built on the site of
today’s CNE grounds, replaced the
trading post in 1751. When the 1763
Treaty of Paris ended the AngloFrench War after the fall of Québec,
French rule in North America effectively ended, and the city’s French
antecedents were all but forgotten.
Only 32km (20 miles) across the
lake from the United States, Toronto
has always been affected by what happens south of the border. When the
Dateline
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1615 Etienne Brûleé travels the
Toronto Trail. “Toronto” is derived
from a Huron term for “place of
meeting.”
1720 France establishes post at Toronto.
1751 French build Fort Rouille.
1759 Fort Rouille burned during
British conquest.
1763 Treaty of Paris effectively ends
French rule in Canada.
1787 Lord Dorchester, British governor of Québec, purchases land from
Scarborough to Etobicoke from the
Mississauga tribe.
1793 Governor of Upper Canada,
Col. John Simcoe, arrives and names
settlement York. It becomes capital of
Upper Canada.
1796 Yonge Street laid out, a 53km
(33-mile) oxcart trail.
1812–15 War of 1812, between
United States and England, uses
Canada as a battleground. In 1813,
Americans invade, blow up Fort York,
and burn Parliament buildings. In
1814, U.S. troops are driven out of
Canada.
1820s Immigration of Nonconformists and Irish Catholics fosters
reform politics.
1828 Erie Canal extended to Oswego
on Lake Ontario.
1830s Orange Order becomes prominent influence in politics.
1832–34 Cholera epidemics.
1834 City named Toronto; City
Council replaces magistrates; William
Lyon Mackenzie becomes first mayor.
1837 Former mayor Mackenzie
leads rebellion sparked by economic
downturn.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1
American Revolution established a
powerful, potentially hostile new
nation, Toronto’s location became
strategically more important, or so it
seemed to John Graves Simcoe. He
was lieutenant governor of the newly
formed province of Upper Canada,
which had been established in 1791 to
administer the frontiers—from
Kingston and Quinte’s Isle to Windsor
and beyond—settled largely by Loyalists fleeing the Revolution. To Simcoe,
Toronto was more defensible than
Fort Niagara and a natural arsenal for
Lake Ontario, which also afforded
easy access to Lake Huron and the
interior.
The governor had already purchased a vast tract of land from the
Mississauga tribe for the paltry sum of
£1,700 (US$2,600), plus blankets,
guns, rum, and tobacco. In 1793,
Lieutenant Governor Simcoe, his
wife, Elizabeth, and the Queen’s
Rangers arrived. Simcoe ordered a garrison built, renamed the settlement
York, and laid it out in a 10-block rectangle around King, Front, George,
Duke, and Berkeley streets. Beyond
stretched a series of 40-hectare (100acre) lots from Queen to Bloor, which
were granted to mollify government
officials, who resented having to move
to the mosquito-plagued, marshy outpost. Its muddiness was prodigious,
and in fact a story is told of a fellow
who saw a hat lying in the middle of a
street, went to pick it up, and found
the head of a live man submerged
below it! In 3 short years a small hamlet had grown, and Simcoe had laid
out Yonge Street—then a 53km (33mile) oxcart trail. Four years later the
first Parliament meeting confirmed
York as the capital of Upper Canada.
FROM MUDDY YORK TO THE
FAMILY COMPACT
The officials were a more demanding
and finicky lot than the sturdy frontier
farmers, and businesses sprang up to
serve them. By 1812, the population
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1840s–50s Mass Irish immigration.
1841 Act of Union establishes the
United Province of Canada, with
Kingston as ruling seat; Toronto loses
status as a capital.
1843 The university, King’s College,
opens.
1844 City Hall built. George Brown
founds the Globe.
1849 Great fire destroys much of city.
Anglican King’s College converts to
secular University of Toronto.
1851 Population 30,000 (33% Irish).
Anglican Trinity College founded. St.
Lawrence Hall built.
1852 Toronto Stock Exchange opens.
Grand Trunk Railroad charted, linking
Québec, Montréal, Toronto, Guelph,
and Sarnia.
1853 St. James Cathedral completed.
1858 Storm creates the Toronto Islands.
1861 Horse-powered street railway
runs along Yonge to Yorkville.
1867 Canadian Confederation;
Toronto becomes capital of new
province of Ontario.
1868 Canada First movement begins.
1869 Eaton’s department store opens.
1871 Population 56,000.
1872 Simpson’s department store
opens.
1876 John Ross Robertson starts
Evening Telegram, which wields influence for next 90 years.
1886 Provincial parliament buildings
erected in Queen’s Park.
1893 First Stanley Cup played.
1896 Maclean’s newsmagazine started.
1903 The dramatic short film
Hiawatha is the first movie made in
Canada.
1904 Great Fire burns much of
downtown.
1906 First autos produced by Canada
Cycle and Motor Company. Toronto
Symphony founded.
1907 Bell strike broken. Royal
Alexandra opens. The Lord’s Day Act
forbids all public activity except
churchgoing on Sunday.
1909 Florence Nightingale Graham
drops out of nursing school in Toronto,
changes her name to Elizabeth Arden,
and founds the first cosmetics empire.
continues
254
A P P E N D I X . TO R O N TO I N D E P T H
had grown to 703 and included a
brewer-baker, blacksmith, watchmaker, chair-maker, apothecary, hatter, and tailor.
During the War of 1812, despite
initial victories at Queenston and
Detroit, Canada was under siege. In
April 1813, 14 ships carrying 1,700
American troops invaded York, blew
up the incomplete fort, burned the
Parliament buildings, and carried off
the mace (which was not returned
until 1934). The British general
burned a 30-gun warship, the Sir Isaac
Brock, which was under construction,
and retreated, leaving young John
Strachan to negotiate the capitulation.
This event did much to reinforce the
town’s pro-British, anti-American attitude—a feeling that persists to some
extent to this day. In retaliation for the
burning of Fort York, some Canadians
went to Washington and torched the
American president’s residence. (The
Americans later whitewashed it to
hide the charred wood—hence, the
White House.)
A conservative pro-British outlook
permeated the official political oligarchy that dominated York, a group
dubbed the Family Compact. Many of
the names on street signs, subway
stops, and maps derive from this
august group of early government officers and their families. Among them
were William Jarvis, a New England
Loyalist who became provincial secretary; John Beverley Robinson, son of a
Virginia Loyalist, who became attorney general at age 22 and later chief
justice of Upper Canada; and Scottish-educated Dr. John Strachan, a
schoolmaster who became an Anglican rector and, eventually, the most
powerful figure in York. Anglo-Irish
Dr. William Warren Baldwin, doctor,
lawyer, architect, judge, and parliamentarian, laid out Spadina Avenue as
a thoroughfare leading to his country
house; the Boultons were prominent
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1911 Founding members of the
Group of Seven meet at the Toronto
Arts and Letters Club.
1912 Garment workers’ strike broken.
Royal Ontario Museum founded.
1914 New Union Station built.
1914–18 World War I; 70,000 Torontonians enlist, and 13,000 die.
1920 The Art Gallery of Toronto
mounts the first Group of Seven
exhibit.
1922 University of Toronto
researchers Frederick Banting and
Charles Best discover insulin.
1923 Dr. Banting is awarded the
Nobel Prize in medicine. Parliament
passes the Chinese Exclusion Act.
Ernest Hemingway moves to Toronto
to become a reporter for the Star.
1930s The Great Depression; thousands go on relief.
1931 Maple Leaf Gardens built as
home base for the Maple Leafs.
1938 Toronto native Joseph Shuster
creates Superman.
1939 Canada enters World War II;
thousands of troops leave from Union
Station.
1940–45 Toronto functions as war
supplier.
1947 Cocktail lounges approved.
1950 Sunday sports allowed.
1951 Population 31% foreign-born.
1954 Metro created; Toronto becomes
a model for urban consolidation.
Toronto native Marilyn Bell, 16,
becomes first person to swim across
Lake Ontario. In October, Hurricane
Hazel kills 83 people in Toronto.
1959 York University, Toronto’s second major institution of higher education, opens.
1960 Movies are shown in Toronto on
Sunday for the first time.
1961 Population 42% foreign-born.
1963 Ryerson Polytechnic University
founded.
1965 New City Hall at Nathan
Phillips Square is unveiled. Canada
and the United States sign the
Autopact, creating boom times in
Toronto and nearby Oshawa.
1966 U.S. draft dodgers start fleeing
to Canada; many settle in Toronto.
H I S TO RY 1 0 1
lawyers, judges, and politicians—
Judge D’Arcy Boulton built a mansion, the Grange, which later became
the core of the art museum and still
stands today.
These men, extremely conscious of
rank, were conformist, conservative,
pro-British, Tory, and Anglican. Their
power was broken only later in the
19th century, as a larger and more
diverse population gave reformers a
chance to challenge their control. But
even today, their influence lingers in
the corporate world, where a handful
of companies and individuals control
80% of the companies on the Toronto
Stock Exchange.
THE EARLY 1800S—CANAL,
RAILROAD & IMMIGRATION
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1970s Influx of immigration from
Asia, Africa, India, Pakistan, the
Caribbean, and Latin America.
1974 Mikhail Baryshnikov defects
from the USSR during a trip to
Toronto.
1975 Toronto International Film Festival founded. CN Tower becomes the
world’s tallest freestanding structure.
1980s Creation and expansion of the
Greater Toronto area, including nearby
cities of Hamilton and Oshawa.
1981 Population 3,898,933.
1984 City’s 150th anniversary.
1989 SkyDome opens, drawing wide
criticism of its C$570 million
(US$388 million) cost.
1992 Residents of Toronto Islands win
40-year struggle to retain their homes.
Blue Jays win World Series for the first
time.
1993 Blue Jays repeat as World Series
champions.
1995 Progressive Conservative Government elected.
1996 Population 4,263,757. Fortune
magazine names Toronto best city in
the world to live and work in. University of Toronto professor John Polanyi
wins Nobel Prize in Chemistry.
1997 Protests in Queen’s Park target
social service cuts and the passage of
Bill 103, creating a megacity.
1998 Toronto becomes a megacity
anyway.
1999 Researchers at McMaster University in Hamilton discover unusual
characteristics of Einstein’s brain. The
new Air Canada Centre becomes home
to the Maple Leafs and the Raptors.
2001 Toronto loses its bid to host the
2008 Olympics to Beijing.
2002 Toronto hosts the first World
Youth Day ever held in Canada; the
event includes a visit by Pope John
Paul II.
2003 Toronto gains several new attractions, including the Distillery Historic
District, the Yonge-Dundas Square,
and the Carlu Theatre. Toronto
tourism drops due to the SARS scare.
The changes that eventually diluted
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their control began in the early 19th
century. During the 1820s, 1830s, and
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1840s, immigrants—Irish Protestants
and Catholics, Scots, Presbyterians,
Methodists, and other Nonconformists—poured in to settle the frontier farmlands. By 1832 York had
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become the largest urban community
in the province, with a population of
1,600. Already well established com■
mercially as a supply center, York
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enjoyed another boost when the Erie
Canal was extended to Oswego on
Lake Ontario, giving it direct access to
New York, and the Welland Canal was
built across the Niagara Peninsula,
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allowing access to Lake Erie and points
beyond. In 1834, the city was incorpo■
rated and York became Toronto, a city
bounded by Parliament Street to the
east, Bathurst to the west, the lakefront
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to the south, and 400 yards north of
the current Queen Street (then called
Lot) to the north. Outside this area—
west to Dufferin Street, east to the Don
River, and north to Bloor Street—lay
the “liberties,” out of which the city would later carve new wards. North of Bloor,
local brewer Joseph Bloor and Sheriff Jarvis were already drawing up plans for the
village of Yorkville.
256
As more immigrants arrived, the population grew more diverse, and demands
arose for democracy and reform. Among the reformers were such leaders as
Francis Collins, who launched the radical paper Canadian Freeman in 1825;
lawyer William Draper; and, perhaps most famous of all, fiery William Lyon
Mackenzie, who was elected Toronto’s first mayor in 1834.
Mackenzie had started his Colonial Advocate to crusade against the narrowminded Family Compact, calling for reform and challenging their power to such
an extent that some of them dumped his presses into the lake. By 1837,
Mackenzie, undaunted, was calling for open rebellion.
A severe depression, financial turmoil, and the failure of some banks all contributed to the 1837 Rebellion, one of the most dramatic events in the city’s history. On December 5, the rebels, a scruffy bunch of about 700, gathered at
Montgomery’s Tavern outside the city (near modern-day Eglinton Ave.). Led by
Mackenzie on a white mare, they marched on the city. Two days later the city’s
militia, called out by Sheriff Jarvis, scattered the rebels at Carlton Street. Both
sides then turned and ran. Reinforcements arrived, pursued the rebels, and bombarded the tavern with cannonballs. Mackenzie fled to the United States, and
two other leaders—Lount and Matthews—were hanged. Their graves are in the
Necropolis cemetery.
Between 1834 and 1884 the foundations of an industrial city were laid:
Toronto gained water works, gas, and public transportation. Many municipal
facilities were built, including a city hall, the Royal Lyceum Theatre (1848) on
King near Bay, the Toronto Stock Exchange (1852), St. Lawrence Hall (1851),
an asylum, and a jail.
During the 1850s the building of the railroads accelerated the economic pace.
By 1860, Toronto was at the center of a railroad web. It became the trading hub for
lumber and grain imports and exports. Merchant empires were founded, railroad
magnates emerged, and institutions like the Bank of Toronto were established.
Despite its growth and wealth, Toronto still lagged behind Montréal, which had
twice Toronto’s population in 1861. But Toronto increasingly took advantage of
its superior links to the south, and that edge eventually helped it overtake its rival.
Under the Confederation of 1867, the city was guaranteed another advantage: As
the capital of the newly created Ontario, Toronto, in effect, controlled the minerals and timber of the north.
During this mid-Victorian period the growth of a more diverse population
continued. In 1847, Irish famine victims began flooding into Toronto, and by
1851 and 1852 the Irish-born were the city’s largest single ethnic group. While
many of them were Ulster Protestants who did not threaten the Anglo-Protestant ascendancy, the newcomers were not always welcomed—a pattern that
repeated whenever a new immigrant group threatened to change the shape and
order of society. As the gap between the number of Anglicans and Catholics
closed, sectarian tensions increased, and the old-country Orange and Green conflicts flared into mob violence.
LATE- & HIGH-VICTORIAN TORONTO
Between 1871 and 1891 the city’s population more than tripled, shooting from
56,000 to 181,000. The burgeoning urban market helped spawn two great
Toronto retailers—Timothy Eaton and Robert Simpson—who moved to Toronto
from Ontario towns to open stores at Queen and Yonge streets in 1869 and 1872,
respectively. Eaton developed his reputation on fixed prices, cash sales only, and
promises of refunds if the customer wasn’t satisfied—all unique gambits at the
time. Simpson copied Eaton and competed by providing better service, such as
H I S TO RY 1 0 1
257
two telephones to take orders instead of one. Both enterprises developed into fullfledged department stores, and both entered the mail-order business, conquering
the country with their catalogs.
The business of the city was business, and amassing wealth was the pastime of
such figures as Henry Pellatt, stockbroker, president of the Electrical Development Company, and builder of Casa Loma; E. B. Osler; George Albertus Cox;
and A. R. Ames. Although these men were self-made entrepreneurs, not Family
Compact officials, they formed a traditional socially conservative elite, linked by
money, taste, investments, and religious affiliation. And they were staunchly
British. They and the rest of the citizens celebrated the Queen’s Jubilee in 1897
with gusto, and gave Toronto boys a rousing send-off to fight in the Boer War in
1899. The prominent businessmen also had a fondness for clubs—the Albany
Club for the Conservatives, and the National Club for the Liberals. As in England, their sports clubs (notably the Royal Yacht Club, the Toronto Cricket Club,
the Toronto Golf Club, and the Lawn Tennis Club) carried a certain cachet.
The boom spurred new commercial and residential construction. Projects
included the first steel-frame building—the Board of Trade Building (1889)—
at Yonge and Front—George Gooderham’s Romanesque-style mansion (1890)
at St. George and Bloor (now the York Club), the provincial parliament buildings in Queen’s Park (1886–92), and the city hall (1899) at Queen and Bay.
Public transit improved, and by 1891 the city had 109km (68 miles) of tracks
for horse-drawn cars. Electric lights, telephones, and electric streetcars appeared
in the 1890s.
FROM 1900 TO 1933
Between 1901 and 1921 the population more than doubled, climbing from
208,000 to 521,893. The economy continued to expand, fueled by the lumber,
mining, wholesale, and agricultural machinery industries, and after 1911 by
hydroelectric power. Toronto began to seriously challenge Montréal. Much of
the new wealth went into construction, and three marvelous buildings from this
era can still be seen today: the Horticultural Building at the Exhibition Grounds
(1907), the King Edward Hotel (1903), and Union Station (1914–19). Most of
the earlier wooden structures had been destroyed in the Great Fire of 1904,
which wiped out 5.6 hectares (14 acres) of downtown.
The booming economy and its factories attracted a wave of new immigrants—mostly Italians and Jews from Russia and Eastern Europe—who settled
in the city’s emerging ethnic enclaves. By 1912, Kensington Market was well
established, and the garment center and Jewish community were firmly
ensconced around King and Spadina. Little Italy clustered around College and
Grace. By 1911 more than 30,000 Torontonians were foreign-born, and the
slow march to change the English character of the city had begun.
It was still a city of churches worthy of the name “Toronto the Good,” with
a population of staunch religious conservatives, who barely voted for Sunday
streetcar service in 1897 and in 1912 banned tobogganing on Sunday. As late as
1936, 30 men were arrested at the lakeshore resort of Sunnyside because they
exposed their chests—even though the temperature was 105°F (41°C)! In 1947,
cocktail lounges were approved, but it wasn’t until 1950 that playing sports on
Sunday became legal.
Increased industrialization brought social problems, largely concentrated in
Cabbagetown and the Ward, a large area that stretched west of Yonge and north
of Queen. Here, poor people lived in crowded, wretched conditions: Housing
258
was inadequate, health conditions poor, and rag-picking or sweatshop labor the
only employment.
As industry grew, unionism also increased, but the movement, as in the
United States, failed to organize politically. Two major strikes—at Bell in 1907
and in the garment industry in 1912—were easily broken.
The larger, wealthier city also became an intellectual and cultural magnet.
Artists like Charles Jefferys, J. H. MacDonald, Arthur Lismer, Tom Thomson,
Lawren Harris, Frederick Varley, and A. Y. Jackson, most associated with the
Group of Seven, set up studios in Toronto. Their first group show opened in
1920. Toronto also became the English-language publishing center of the
nation, and national magazines like Maclean’s (1896) and Saturday Night were
launched. The Art Gallery of Ontario, the Royal Ontario Museum, the Toronto
Symphony Orchestra, and the Royal Alexandra Theatre all opened before 1914.
Women advanced, too, at the turn of the century. In 1880, Emily Jennings
Stowe became the first Canadian woman authorized to practice medicine. In
1886, the university admitted women. Clara Brett Martin was the first woman
admitted to the law courts. The women’s suffrage movement gained strength,
led by Dr. Stowe, Flora McDonald Denison, and the Women’s Christian Temperance Union.
During World War I, Toronto sent 70,000 men to the trenches; about 13,000
were killed. At home, the war had a great impact economically and socially:
Toronto became Canada’s chief aviation center; factories, shipyards, and power
facilities expanded to meet the needs of war; and women entered the workforce
in great numbers.
After the war the city took on much more of the aspect and tone that characterize it today. Automobiles appeared on the streets—the Canadian Cycle and
Motor Company had begun manufacturing them in 1906 (the first parking
ticket was given in 1908), and one or two skyscrapers appeared. Although 80%
of the population was of British origin, ethnic enclaves were clearly defined.
The 1920s roared along, fueled by a mining boom that saw Bay Street turned
into a veritable gold-rush alley where everyone was pushing something hot. The
Great Depression followed, inflicting 30% unemployment in 1933. The only
distraction from its bleakness was the opening of Maple Leaf Gardens in 1931.
Besides being an ice-hockey center, it also was host to large protest rallies during the Depression, and later such diverse entities as the Jehovah’s Witnesses,
Billy Graham, the Ringling Bros. Circus, and the Metropolitan Opera.
As in the United States, hostility toward new immigrants was rife during the
’20s. It reached a peak in 1923, when the Chinese Exclusion Act was passed,
banning Chinese immigration. In the 1930s, antagonism toward Jews intensified. Signs such as NO JEWS, NIGGERS, OR DOGS were posted occasionally at
Balmy and Kew beaches. In August 1933, the display of a swastika at Christie
Pits caused a battle between Nazis and Jews.
AFTER WORLD WAR II
In 1939, Torontonians again rallied to the British cause, sending thousands to
fight in Europe. At home, plants turned out fighter bombers and Bren guns, and
people endured rationing—one bottle of liquor a month, and limited supplies
of sugar and other staples—while they listened to the war-front news delivered
by Lorne Greene.
Already prosperous by World War II, Toronto continued to expand during the
1940s. The suburbs alone added more than 200,000 to the population between
1940 and 1953. By the 1950s, the urban area had grown so large, disputes
H I S TO RY 1 0 1
259
between city and suburbs were so frequent, and the need for social and other services was so great that an effective administrative solution was needed. In 1953,
the Metro Council, composed of equal numbers of representatives from the city
and the suburbs, was established.
Toronto became a major city in the 1950s, with Metro providing a structure
for planning and growth. The Yonge subway opened, and a network of highways
was constructed. It linked the city to the affluent suburbs. Don Mills, the first
new town, was built between 1952 and 1962; Yorkdale Center, a mammoth
shopping center, followed in 1964. American companies began locating branch
plants in the area, fueling much of the growth.
The city also began to loosen up. While the old social elite (still traditionally
educated at Upper Canada College, Ridley, and Trinity College) continued to
dominate the boardrooms, politics, at least, had become more accessible and
fluid. In 1954, Nathan Phillips became the first Jewish mayor, signifying how
greatly the population had changed from the days when immigrants were
primarily British, American, or French. In 1947, the Chinese Exclusion Act of
1923 was repealed, opening the door to relatives of Toronto’s then-small
Chinese community. After 1950, the door swung open further. Germans and
Italians were allowed to enter, adding to the communities that were already
established; then, under pressure from the United Nations, Poles, Ukrainians,
Central European and Russian Jews, Yugoslavs, Estonians, Latvians, and other
East Europeans poured in. Most arrived at Union Station, having journeyed
from the ports of Halifax, Québec City, and Montréal. At the beginning of the
1950s, the foreign-born were 31% of the population; by 1961, they were 42%,
and the number of people claiming British descent had fallen from 73% to
59%. The 1960s brought an even richer mix of people—Portuguese, Greeks,
West Indians, South Asians, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Chilean refugees—
changing the city’s character forever.
In the 1960s, the focus shifted from the suburbs to the city. People moved
back downtown, renovating the handsome brick Victorians so characteristic of
today’s downtown. Yorkville emerged briefly as the hippie capital—the HaightAshbury of Canada. Gordon Lightfoot and Joni Mitchell sang in the coffeehouses, and antiwar protests took over the streets. Perhaps the failure of the
experimental, alternative Rochdale College in 1968 marked the demise of that
era. By the mid-1970s, Yorkville had been transformed into a village of elegant
boutiques and galleries and high-rent restaurants, and the funky village had
moved to Queen Street West.
In the 1970s, Toronto became the fastest-growing city in North America. For
years the city had competed with Montréal for first-city status, and now the separatist issue and the election of the Parti Quebecois in 1976 hastened Toronto’s
dash to the tape. It overtook Montréal as a financial center, boasting more corporate headquarters. Its stock market was more important, and it remained the
country’s prime publishing center. A dramatically different city hall opened in
1965, a symbol of the city’s equally new dynamism. Toronto also began reclaiming its waterfront, with the development of Harbourfront. The city’s new power
and wealth came alive in new skyscrapers and civic buildings—the Toronto
Dominion, the 72-story First Canadian Place, Royal Bank Plaza, Roy Thomson
Hall, the Eaton Centre, the CN Tower—all of which transformed the 1930s
skyline into an urban landscape worthy of world attention.
Unlike the rapid building of highways and other structures completed in the
1950s, these developments were achieved with some balance and attention to
260
the city’s heritage. From the late ’60s to the early ’80s, citizens fought to ensure
that the city’s heritage was saved and that development was not allowed to continue as wildly as it had in the ’50s. The best examples of the reform movement’s
success were the stopping of the proposed Spadina Expressway in 1971 and the
fight against several urban renewal plans.
During the 1970s, the provincial government also helped develop attractions
that would polish Toronto’s patina and lure visitors: Ontario Place in 1971, Harbourfront in 1972, and the Metro Zoo and the Ontario Science Centre in 1974.
Government financing also supported the arts and helped turn Toronto from a
city with four theaters in 1965 to one boasting more than 40 today.
2 Toronto Today
Toronto’s growth has continued steadily since the 1970s, though the past several
years have been a tumultuous time for the city. The merger of its separate
municipalities, rapid population growth, and provincial government budget
slashing have all had a serious impact on the life of the city. Toronto has few
friends in the provincial government (perhaps because its citizens vote against it
whenever given the opportunity). In addition to forcing the megacity merger
through, the Conservative provincial government (or “Tories”) cut social spending. The most frequent complaint heard in Toronto is that the city’s municipal
taxes aren’t reinvested in its infrastructure, but end up being funneled to less
populous parts of the province. Toronto is currently in a tumult over legislation
passed by the city council in 2003 allowing emergency shelters for the homeless
to be built in any ward in the city. Sadly the city’s homeless problem only seems
to be growing rather than improving.
But it has also been a boom time for Toronto, with the opening of new attractions such as the Distillery Historic District; the anticipated construction of a
long-awaited opera house and a third subway line; and a burgeoning dining and
entertainment scene. The downtown core is thriving, and the energy is driving
its development west into previously neglected areas. Toronto is still the city of
choice for arriving immigrants: 300,000 Hong Kong émigrés have joined
Toronto’s Chinese community, and there have been influxes from Somalia, Eastern Europe, India, Pakistan, and Central America. Neighborhoods around town
preserve these cultures. While their influence is strong in many areas, it is perhaps most visible to a short-term visitor in the city’s diverse dining options and
in Toronto’s many cultural festivals.
In 2001, Toronto made a Herculean effort to convince the International
Olympic Committee that it would make the perfect host city for the 2008
Games, but it lost out to Beijing. Local wags claimed that Toronto was being
“strongly encouraged” to go after the 2012 Games. However, the fact that Vancouver won the 2010 Winter Games has likely quashed that dream for now. Fortunately, the local government is considering the implementation of some of the
terrific plans that were drawn up to win over the IOC. Watch for further development along the waterfront. Undoubtedly Toronto’s energy will be channeled
in new and interesting directions.
Index
See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.
GENERAL INDEX
A aroport, 40
AARP, 26
Abyssinia, 157
Academy of Spherical Arts,
210
Accents, 213
Access America, 24
Accommodations, 54–74.
See also Accommodations
Index
at the airport, 72–74
bed-and-breakfasts
(B&Bs), 55
best bets, 7–8
Downtown East, 65–68
Downtown West, 55–65
East End, 71
family-friendly, 66
Hamilton, 250
Midtown West, 68–71
Niagara-on-the-Lake,
230–233
in package tours, 37
shopping online for, 29
tipping, 53
tips on, 38–39
Uptown, 71
what’s new, 1
Addresses, finding, 44
Admiralty Point
Condominiums, 159
African Lion Safari
(Hamilton), 250
African Savanna, 131
Afterlife, 209
Afternoon tea, 10, 66, 170,
240
AIDS & Sexual Health
InfoLine, 51
Air Canada, 1, 29, 33–34
Air Canada Centre, 6, 140,
152, 158
Airfares
money-saving tips, 35–36
shopping online for, 28–29
AirLine limo service, 40
Airlines, 1, 33–34
bankruptcy and, 35
Airport Express bus, 40
Airports, 1
accommodations at, 72–74
arriving in, 40–41
security procedures, 34
Air Tickets Direct, 35
Akropol, 135
Al Frisco’s, 210–211
The Algonquians Sweet
Grass Gallery, 181
Allan Gardens, 141
Allen’s, 212
Alvand Food Mart, 158
American Airlines, 33
American Airlines
Vacations, 37
American Express
emergency number, 17
traveler’s checks, 15
American Foundation for
the Blind, 26
The Amsterdam, 212
Amtrak, 36
Niagara-on-the-Lake and
Niagara Falls, 227
Stratford, 218
Angus Glen Golf Club, 150
The Annex, 46
Another Man’s Poison, 178
Antiques, 172, 174–176
The Archer (Moore),
124, 137
Architectural highlights,
135–138
Arctic Canada, 181
Area code, 50
Argonauts, 152
Aritzia, 184–185
Art galleries, 176
Art Gallery of Ontario,
6, 124, 143, 154, 166
restaurants near, 130
Artists’ Gardens, 119
Art museums
Art Gallery of Ontario,
6, 124, 143, 154, 166
George R. Gardiner
Museum of Ceramic Art,
2, 126–127
Henry Moore Sculpture
Centre, 124–125
McMichael Canadian Art
Collection, 128
Museum of Contemporary
Canadian Art, 133
Royal Ontario Museum,
2, 127–128, 143, 146
Arts and crafts, 21
Canadian Aboriginal
Festival, 23
shopping for, 135, 154,
159, 169, 181–182
Winterfest, 19
The Art Shoppe, 188, 191
Arts on King, 182
Art Zone, 182
Ashbridge’s Bay Park, 146
Assaulted Women’s Help
Line, 51
Asylum, 157, 194
AT&T Rogers Cup, 152
At Home, 172
ATMs (automated teller
machines), 15
Atom Blaster, 119
Atrium on Bay, 190
Atticus Books, 178
Australia
airlines from, 33–34
Canadian High Commission
in, 12
Consulate-General, 50
customs regulations, 14
High Commission, 50
passport information, 13
Australian Passport
Information Service, 13
Auto racing, 151
Avis rental cars, 49
Avon Boat Rentals
(Stratford), 222
Avon Theatre (Stratford),
220
262
INDEX
B abysitting, 50
Ballenford Books on
Architecture, 178
The BamBoo, 207
Bank of Montreal, 168
Bar 501, 214
Bar Italia & Billiards, 210
The Barn/The Stables, 214
Bars, 210–212
Baseball, 151
Basketball, 151–152
The Bata Shoe Museum,
131–132
Bat Cave, 128
Bath and beauty products,
187–188
Bauhaus, 209
Bau-Xi, 154, 176
The Bay, 165
Bay-Bloor Radio, 177
Bay of Spirits Gallery, 176
BCE Place, 168
The Beaches, 45, 146
sights and attractions, 134
Beardmore Building, 169
Bed and Breakfast
Canada, 55
Bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs),
55
Stratford, 224–225
Beer Store, 51
Bell Canadian Open, 152
Belle Epoque, 174
Bellevue Park, 157
Berlin, 209
Bernardi’s Antiques, 174
Better Business Bureau, 37
Bicycling, 147–148
tours, 146
Bidding For Travel, 29
The Big Carrot, 186
Billiards, 210
Birks, 189
The Bishop and the Belcher,
212
Bishop White Gallery, 127
Black Creek Pioneer Village,
132, 143
Bloor Laundromat, 51
Bloor Street, 42
Bloor Street Viaduct, 126
Bloor Street West, 172
Blue Jays, 151
Season Opener, 19
Blue Moon, 135
Boathouse (Stratford), 222
Boating, 147
Boat tours and cruises
Muskoka region, 242
237–238
Stratford, 222
Toronto, 145
Bob Miller Book Room, 178
Boingo, 31
The Bonnie Stern School,
186
Book City, 178
Books, recommended, 39
Bookstores, 178–179
Boomer, 184
Bounty Contemporary
Canadian Craft Shop, 119
Bracebridge, 242
Brava, 194
Bravo, 145
British Airways, 33, 34
Browns, 193
The Brunswick House, 212
Bucket shops, 35
Buddies in Bad Times
Theatre, 200
Budget rental cars, 49, 242
Business hours, 50
Bus tours, 144–145
Bus travel, 36, 48
to/from airport, 41
Butterfly Conservatory, 236
Byzantium, 214
C aban, 188
Cabbagetown, 46
Cabs, 48–49
to/from airports, 40
tipping, 53
Calendar of events, 18–23
Cameron House, 212
Campbell House, 138, 166
Canada Blooms, 19
Canada Customs and
Revenue Agency, 13
Canada Day
Celebrations, 20
Canada Life Assurance
Building, 166
Canada Permanent Trust
Building, 165
Canada’s Sports Hall of
Fame, 140
Canadian Aboriginal
Festival, 23
Canadian Automobile
Association (CAA), 37
Canadian Broadcasting
Centre, 145
Canadian High
Commission, 12
Canadian Imperial Bank
of Commerce, 164
Canadian National
Exhibition, 21
Canadian Opera Company,
204
Canadian Tire, 177
Canadian Warplane Heritage
Museum (Hamilton), 248
Canoeing, 147
CanStage, 200
Capezio, 193
Careful Hand Laundry & Dry
Cleaners Ltd., 51
Care-on-Call, 50
Caribana, 21, 22
Carlton Cinemas, 215
The Carlu, 2, 203
Car rentals, 49
Car travel, 36–37, 49
Casa Acoreana, 157–158
Casa Loma, 126, 136–137,
143
Cavalcade of Lights, 23
CBC Museum, 145
Cellphones, 32–33
Cemeteries, 142
Centre Island, 6, 124, 147
Centreville, 124
Centro, 214
C’est What?, 207
Chanel, 182
Chapters, 178
Charlotte Room Billiards
Digest, 210
Château des Charmes, 228
Children, families with,
26–27
accommodations, 66
Children’s Film Festival,
142
entertainment, 201–202
Lorraine Kimsa Theatre for
Young People, 201–202
Milk International
Children’s Festival,
19, 142
Paramount Canada’s
Wonderland, 129–131,
143
restaurants, 93
shopping, 183, 188, 193
sights and attractions,
142–144
Children’s Film Festival, 142
Chinatown, 45
shopping, 171
133–134
walking tour, 153–158
Chinese New Year
Celebrations, 18
Chudleigh’s, 143–144
GENERAL INDEX
ChumCity, 145
Church Street, 46
Cigars and tobacco, 180
Cinemas, 215
Cinematheque Ontario, 215
Cirrus ATM network, 15
City Hall
New, 136, 137, 165
Old, 136–137, 165
Citytv, 145
Classical music, 204
Climate, 18
Club and music scene,
206–210
Club Monaco, 183
CN Tower, 6, 125, 143,
160–161
Coffeehouses, 215–217
Colborne Lodge, 138
College Park, 190
Comedy clubs, 6–7, 206
Community Information
Centre of Metropolitan
Toronto, 25–26
Comrags, 185
Consolidators, 35
The Consort Bar, 213
Constantine, 174
Consulate General of Italy,
154
Consulates, 50
Contemporary Canadian Art,
Museum of, 133
Continental Airlines
Vacations, 37
Contraception Museum,
History of, 132
The Cookbook Store, 178
The Corner Pocket, 210–211
Council Travel, 27
Courage My Love, 141, 157,
194
Crafts, 21
Canadian Aboriginal
Festival, 23
shopping for, 135, 154,
159, 169, 181–182
Winterfest, 19
Craft Studio, 119
Credit cards, 16
frequent-flier, 36
Crews/Tango, 214
Cross-country skiing, 147
Cullen Gardens & Miniature
Village, 144
Currency and currency
exchange, 14–16
online currency converter, 32
Cushion concerts, 142
Customs regulations, 13–14
D ance clubs, 209
Dance companies, 205
Dancemakers, 205
Dancing Days, 157
The Danforth, 135
Danier, 190
Danny Grossman Dance
Company, 205
David Mason, 178
David’s, 193
Decibel, 184
Decorum Decorative Finds,
174
Delphic, 184
Delta Airlines, 33, 34
Delta Vacations, 37
Dentists, 50
Department stores, 182
Design Exchange, 132–133
Dessert cafes, 216
Diamond taxi company, 49
Dinner theater, 202–203
Dinosaur Gallery, 128
Disabilities, travelers with,
25–26
accommodations, 8
The Distillery Historic
District, 2, 197
Distress Centre, 51
Divine Decadence, 194
Dixie Outlet Mall, 180
The Docks, 209
Dock Shoppe, 159
Doctors, 50
Donald D. Summerville
Olympic Pool, 146
Don Valley golf course, 149
Dora Keogh Irish Pub, 213
Down East Gifts and Gallery,
187
Downtown
shopping, 171–172
124–125
Downtown Association of
Bed-and-Breakfast Guest
Houses, 55
Downtown East, 42, 45
accommodations, 65–68
restaurants, 96–100
Downtown Jazz Festival, 20
Downtown West, 42
133–134
263
Dragon City, 133, 156
Dream in High Park, 196,
200–201
Driving rules, 49
Dry cleaning, 51
Du Maurier Theatre Centre,
119
Dundurn Castle (Hamilton),
248
Du Verre Glass, 179
E arl Bales Park, 151
The East End, 43, 46, 135.
See also Midtown East
Easy & the Fifth, 209
The Eaton Centre, 137
shopping, 171, 191
Eau, 211
Edwards Gardens, 142
Eglinton Avenue, 46
18 Karat, 154
El Convento Rico, 214–215
Elderhostel, 26
Electricity, 50
Electronic goods, 177–178
The Elgin and Winter Garden
Theatre Centre, 197
Elizabeth Milan Hotel Day
Spa, 148, 187
El Mocambo, 207
El Pipil, 135
Elte Carpet & Home,
188, 191
Embassies and
consulates, 50
Emergencies, 50
En Provence, 188
Enterprise rental cars, 49
Entertainment. See Nightlife
and entertainment
Entry requirements, 13
Equifax, 17
Ernest Thompson Seton
Park, 150
Eskimo Art Gallery, 176
Estée Lauder Spa, 148–149
Ewanika, 134, 185
Expedia, 28, 29, 37, 38
Experian, 17–18
Experimetal, 189
Ex-Toggery, 194
Eza Wear, 184
F actory Theatre, 201
Fairmont Royal York, 168
Fall, 18
264
INDEX
Families with children,
26–27
accommodations, 66
Children’s Film Festival,
142
entertainment, 201–202
Lorraine Kimsa Theatre
for Young People,
201–202
Milk International
Children’s Festival,
19, 142
Wonderland, 129–131,
143
restaurants, 93
shopping, 183, 188, 193
142–144
Familyhostel, 26
Family Travel Files, 27
Family Travel Network, 26
Famous People Players
Dinner Theatre, 202
Fares, public
transportation, 48
Farmer’s Market (Stratford),
222
Fashion Crimes, 185
Fashion Design Council
of Canada, 191
Fashions (clothing), 182–186
children’s, 183
for kids, 183
men’s, 183–184
vintage, 6, 194–195
women’s, 183–186
Feheley Fine Arts, 176
Femme De Carriere, 185
Ferries, 50
Festival of Beer, 21
Festivals and special events,
18–23
Festival Theatre (Stratford),
220
Film Festival, Toronto
International, 21
Financial District, 44–45
First Canadian Place,
164, 191
First Hand Canadian Crafts,
159
First Night Toronto and New
Year’s Eve at City Hall, 23
Fitness centers, 148–149
Five Potters Studio, 182
Flatiron or Gooderham
Building, 168–169
Flights.com, 35
Floral Clock, 236
Food stores and markets,
186–187, 192
Football, 152
Forest Hill, 46
Fort Erie, Historic, 237
Fort George National
Historic Park, 230
Fortune Housewares, 156
Fort York, 139, 143
French Country, 187
Frequent-flier clubs, 35
Frequent-flier credit
cards, 36
Fresh Baked Goods, 185
Frida, 182
Frida Crafts, 169
The Fringe—Toronto’s
Theatre Festival,
20–21, 196
Frommers.com, 30
Frommer’s favorite
experiences, 3, 6–7
F/X, 185
G alleria, 137
Gallery Moos, 176
Gallery Stratford, 222
Gardens
Allan Gardens, 141
Cullen Gardens &
Miniature Village, 144
Edwards, 142
(Hamilton), 249–250
School of Horticulture
(Niagara Falls), 236
Gardiner Museum of
Ceramic Art, 2, 126–127
Gay & Lesbian Pride
Celebration, 20
Gay and lesbian travelers
accommodations, 8
information and
resources, 28
marriage, 27
nightlife, 214–215
Gay Toronto, 28
George R. Gardiner Museum
of Ceramic Art, 2, 126–127
George’s Trains, 193
Gifts, 187
Girl Talk Toronto: A Mini City
Guide, 9
Glad Day Bookshop, 28,
178–179
Glen Abbey Golf Club,
150, 152
Glenn Gould Studio, 203
Global Cheese Shoppe,
141, 157, 186
Golf, 149–150
tournaments, 152
Goods-and-services tax
(GST), 172
Gorilla Rainforest, 131
GoToMyPC, 31
GO (Government of Ontario)
Transit, 248
The Grange, 124–125
Gravenhurst, 242–247
Gravenhurst Opera House,
242
Gray Line, 144–145
Great Canadian Blues
Festival, 21
Great Canadian News
Company, 190
Greater Toronto Double
Decker Circle Tour,
144–145
Great Gorge Adventure, 236
Great Lakes Schooner
Company, 145
Great Library, 166
Greektown, 6, 46, 135
Green Tourism Association, 9
Greyhound, 36
Grreat Stuff, 180
Gucci, 182
H amilton, 248–251
Hamilton International
Airport, John C. Munro,
248
Hamilton Military Museum,
248–249
Hamilton Tourist Information
Centre, 248
Hanlan’s Point, 147
Harbor and island tours, 145
Harbourfront Canoe and
Kayak School, 147
Harbourfront Centre, 6, 118
Harbourfront/Lakefront,
44, 142, 143, 150
Harbourfront Reading Series,
20, 119
Harbourside Boating Centre,
147
Harry Rosen, 184
Hazelton Lanes, 150, 191
Health and beauty products,
187–188
Health concerns, 24–25
Health insurance, 24
Help! We’ve Got Kids, 143
GENERAL INDEX
Henry Moore Sculpture
Centre, 124–125
Henry’s, 177
Hermés, 183
Hertz rental cars
Niagara-on-the-Lake, 228
Toronto, 49
High Park, 141–142, 147
High Park Cycle and Sports,
148
Hillebrand Estates Winery,
228
Historic buildings, 138–140
Historic Fort Erie, 237
History of Contraception
Museum, 132
History of Ontario and
Toronto, 252–260
HMV, 192
Hoax Couture, 183
Hockey, 152
Hockey Hall of Fame,
140, 143, 168
Holidays, 18
Holt Renfrew Centre,
182, 191
Holt Renfrew Last Call, 180
Honest Ed’s World Famous
Shopping Centre, 180
Horsefeathers!, 174–175
Horse racing, 152
The Horseshoe Tavern, 207
Hospital for Sick Children, 51
Hospitals, 50
Hotels, 54–74. See also
Accommodations Index
at the airport, 72–74
bed-and-breakfasts
(B&Bs), 55
best bets, 7–8
East End, 71
family-friendly, 66
Hamilton, 250
230–233
in package tours, 37
tipping, 53
tips on, 38–39
Uptown, 71
what’s new, 1
Hot lines, 51
Hotwire, 29–30
House of Tea, 186
Housewares and furnishings,
188–189
H2O Generation Station, 119
The Hudson’s Bay Company,
182
Humber College, 151
Humber Valley golf course,
149
Hummingbird Centre for
the Performing Arts, 169,
203
Huntsville, 243
I AMAT (International
Association for Medical
Assistance to Travelers), 25
Iberica Bakery, 158
Ice, 187
Ice-skating, 150
Identity theft or fraud, 17
IGLTA (International
Gay & Lesbian Travel
Association), 28
IMAX Theater (Niagara
Falls), 238
Indian Motorcycle Café and
Lounge, 209
Indigo Books Music & More,
179
Industrial tours, 145
Information sources,
12, 41–42. See also
Websites
In-line skating, 150
Inniskillin Winery, 237
Insomnia, 51
Insurance, 23–24, 35
Intellicast, 32
International Association
for Medical Assistance
to Travelers (IAMAT), 25
International Dragon Boat
Festival, 20
International Festival of
Authors, 22, 119
International Gay & Lesbian
Travel Association
(IGLTA), 28
International Student
Identity Card (ISIC), 27
International Youth Travel
Card (IYTC), 27
Internet access, 30–32, 51
InTouch USA, 33
IPass network, 31
Ireland
Canadian High
Commission in, 12
Embassy, 50
Passport Office, 13
265
The Irish Shop, 183
ISIC (International Student
Identity Card), 27
I2roam.com, 31
J & S Arts and Crafts, 154
Jane Corkin Gallery, 176
Japanese Paper Place, 187
Jazz, 20, 207–208
Jeanne Lottie, 185
Jet boat excursions, 230
JetsGo, 1
Jewelry, 189–190
Joe Rockhead’s, 151
Jogging, 150
John C. Munro Hamilton
International Airport, 248
John Quay, 159
Journey Behind the Falls,
237
Journeywoman, 28
Juliet III (boat), 222
Just Bears, 193
K aleidoscope, 143
Kayaking, 147
Kensington Market,
6, 141, 156, 192
Kew Gardens Park, 146
Kidding Awound, 193
Kids Cats & Dogs, 183
Kids Help Phone, 51
Kiever Synagogue, 157
Kim Moon Bakery, 133, 154
Kingswood Music Theatre,
205
Kinko’s, 51
Kinsman Robinson Galleries,
176
Kitchener, 222
Kitchener-Waterloo Area
Visitors and Convention
Bureau, 222
Kitchen Stuff Plus, 188
Kit Kat Bar and Grill, 211
Kiu Shun Trading, 154
Kol Kid, 183
Konzelmann Winery, 228
Koreatown, 46
Kurtz Orchards, 237
K-W Oktoberfest, 222
L a Cage Dinner Theatre,
202
La Senza, 190
La Serre, 213
Last-minute.com, 29
266
INDEX
L’Atelier, 175
The Laugh Resort, 206
Laundry and dry cleaning, 51
Laundry Lounge, 51
Laura Secord Homestead
(Queenston), 236
La Vie en Rose, 190
Layout of Toronto, 42–44
Leather goods, 190
Lee’s Palace, 207
Left Bank, 211
Legends of the Game,
161, 187
The Library Bar, 213
Light rapid transit (LRT), 48
Limousine services, 40
Linda Lundstrom, 185
Linea Intima, 190
Lingerie, 190
Lionhead Golf Club, 150
Liquor Control Board of
Ontario, 51
Liquor laws, 51
The Little Dollhouse
Company, 193
Little Italy, 3, 6, 45, 134
Lorraine Kimsa Theatre for
Young People, 201–202
Lost-luggage insurance, 24
Lost property, 16–17, 51
Louis Vuitton, 182
Lovechild, 183
Lovecraft, 192–193
Lower Don Valley bike
trail, 147
LRT (light rapid transit), 48
Luggage, lost-luggage
insurance, 24
Luggage storage and
lockers, 51
Lululemon, 185
Lush, 187
Lynn Robinson, 182
M abel’s Fables, 179
M.A.C., 187–188
Mackenzie House, 139
Madison, 211
Magazines and newspapers,
190
Maid of the Mist, 237
Mail, 52
Mail2web.com, 31
Maison de la Presse
Internationale, 190
Malls and shopping centers,
190–192
Manulife Centre,
51, 191, 195
Maple Leaf Gardens, 205
Maple Leaf Quay, 159
Maple Leafs, 152
Opening Night, 22
Mapquest, 32
Marilyn’s, 181
MarineLand (Niagara Falls),
238
Mariposa Cruise Line, 145
Markets, 141, 192
Mark McLaine Collection,
175
Martin Goodman Trail,
147, 150
Massey Hall, 203
MasterCard
MasterCard ATM Locator, 32
Maxi Boutique, 185
McBride Cycle, 148
The McMichael Canadian
Art Collection, 128
MEDEX International, 24
Medic Alert Identification
Tag, 24
Medical insurance, 24
Medieval Times Dinner &
Tournament, 202
Meetingplace (St. Jacobs),
222
Melewa Bakery, 154
Mendels Creamery, 157
Mephisto, 193
Metro Central YMCA, 148
Metro Hall, 162
Metro Licensing
Commission, 49
Metro taxi company, 49
Metro Toronto Convention &
Visitors Association, 12
Michel Taschereau Antiques,
175
MicroKids, 119
Midtown
shopping, 172
126–128
Midtown East, 43, 46. See
also The East End
Midtown West, 43
neighborhoods, 45–46
Milano, 211
Military Museum, Hamilton,
248–249
Milk International Children’s
Festival, 19, 142
Millionaire’s Row, 242
Mink, 134, 189
Mint et Menthe, 211
Mirvish Village, 135
Misdemeanors, 183
Mississauga, 207
Modrobes, 183
Molson Amphitheatre,
119, 205
Molson Indy, 21, 151
Money matters, 14–18
Montréal Bistro & Jazz Club,
208
Montréal/Toronto Tennis
Masters Series, 152
Moore, Henry, 6
The Archer, 124, 137
Sculpture Centre, 124–125
Moores, 184
MossRehab, 26
Mostly Movables Inc, 175
Mountain Equipment Co-op,
169
Mount Pleasant Cemetery,
142, 147
Mount Sinai Hospital, 50–51
Movie houses, 215
MuchMusic, 145
Museum of Contemporary
Canadian Art, 133
Music
classical, 204
clubs, 206–210
pop and rock, 204–205
stores, 192
The Music Store, 192
Muskoka Autumn Studio
Tour, 22
Muskoka Bed and Breakfast
Association, 243
Muskoka Heritage Place
(Huntsville), 243
Muskoka Lakes Museum
(Port Carling), 242–243
Muskoka Pioneer Village
(Huntsville), 243
Muskoka region, 2, 22, 150,
240–247
transportation, 241–242
traveling to, 241
visitor information, 241
Muskoka Tourism, 241
Muti, 179
My Market Bakery, 157
Mysteriously Yours, 202–203
N ancy Poole’s Studio, 177
NASA, 209
Nathan Phillips Square,
137, 150
GENERAL INDEX
National Ballet of Canada,
205–206
National Club Building, 165
National Passport Agency, 13
National Passport
Information Center, 13
National rental cars, 49, 242
National Tilden, 227
Native Canadians, 23, 128,
176, 181, 182, 185, 202,
230, 252
Eskimo Art Gallery, 176
shopping, 176, 181,
182, 185
Native Earth Performing Arts
Theatre, 202
Native Stone Art, 182
Nautical Mind, 159
Necropolis, 142
Neighborhoods, 44–46
shopping, 171–172
133–135
Nestings, 188
Nestings Kids, 188
New Asia Supermarket, 133
New City Hall, 165
Newspapers and magazines,
41, 52, 190
New Zealand
airlines from, 34
Canadian High
Commission in, 12
High Commission, 50
Passports Office, 13
Niagara Falls, 227, 237–238
Niagara Falls Tourism, 227
Niagara Historical Society
Museum, 230
Niagara-on-the-Lake, 7,
227–240
exploring, 228, 230
traveling to, 227
Niagara-on-the-Lake
Chamber of Commerce,
227
Niagara Parks Commission,
227
Niagara Parkway,
227, 236–237
Nicholas Hoare, 169, 179
Nightlife and entertainment,
196–217
bars, 210–214
club and music scene,
206–210
current listings, 196
gay and lesbian, 214–215
movie theaters, 215
performing arts, 196–206
tickets, 196
what’s new, 2
Noah’s, 188
Norman Bethune Memorial
House (Gravenhurst), 242
North by Northeast
Festival, 20
North Toronto, 44
Northwest Airlines, 33
O h Yes, Toronto, 158, 187
Oktoberfest (KitchenerWaterloo), 22, 222
Old City Hall, 136–137, 165
Old Clothing Show & Sale,
22, 191
Old Navy, 183
Old Town/St. Lawrence
Market, 45
Olga Korper Gallery, 177
One Front Street, 168
One-of-a-Kind Craft Show
& Sale, 23, 191
Ontario College of Art
& Design Gallery, 177
Ontario Cycling Association,
147
Ontario Legislature,
136, 138
Ontario Place, 119, 143
Ontario Science Centre,
6, 128–129, 143
Ontario Travel, 53
Ontario Visitor Information
Centre, 41
Opaque fare services, 29
Open Air Books & Maps, 179
Opera, 204, 242
Orbitz, 28, 37
Organized tours, 144–146
Osgoode Hall, 139, 166
Outdoor activities, 146–151
Outside Toronto (website),
220
P ackage tours, 37
Panorama, 211
Pantages Theatre, 197
The Paper Bag Princess, 194
Parachuting, 151
Wonderland, 129–131, 143
Paris Samples, 181
Parking, 49
Parks and gardens, 141–142
267
Patty King, 157
Peach Berserk, 185–186
Pearson International
Airport, 40, 41
Pencraft, 187
Performing arts, 196–206
Perkins Building, 169
Perola Supermarket, 158
Peter Cullman, 189
Petit Pied, 193
PGA Tour Canadian Open, 21
Pharmacies, 52
Pharma Plus, 52
Phoenix Concert Theatre, 207
Picnic areas, 6, 118, 131,
146, 220, 236
The Pilot, 211
The Pineapple Room, 157
Pink Cobra, 186
Plaiter Place, 156
Planet Skate, 150
Playdium, 144
PLUS ATM network, 15
Po Chi Tong, 156
Poison Information
Centre, 51
Police, 52
Pool and billiards, 210
Pop and rock music,
204–205
Pope Joan, 215
Portage Flyer Steam Train
(Huntsville), 243
Port Carling, 242–243
Port Carling Community
Hall, 242
Post offices, 52
Power Plant Contemporary
Art Gallery, 119, 159
Prada, 182–183
Preloved, 195
Premiere Dance Theatre, 203
Prescription medications,
24–25
Priceline, 29
Price Roman, 186
Prime Gallery, 153
Princess of Wales Theatre,
161–162, 197
Provincial sales tax
(PST), 172
Pubs and taverns, 212–214
Pusateri’s, 186
Putti, 176
Q uasi-Modo Modern
Furniture, 134, 189
Queen’s Park (Stratford), 220
Queen’s Park (Toronto),
45, 150
268
INDEX
Queen’s Quay, 118
Queen’s Quay Terminal,
158, 192
Queenston Heights Park, 236
Queen Street West, 45
restaurants, 134
shopping, 172
R a, 169
Radio, 52
Rape Crisis Line, 51
Raptors, 151–152
The Real Jerk, 211
The Rebel House, 213
Rental cars, 49
Reservoir Lounge, 208
Restaurants, 75–116. See
also Restaurant Index
alfresco, 3, 10
best bets, 8–11
by cuisine, 80–84
East End, 108–110
family-friendly, 93
Hamilton, 250–251
late-night, 109
233–236
Niagara Parkway
Commission, 240
north of the city, 114–116
smoking, 80
taxes and tipping, 73, 75
near top attractions, 130
Uptown, 110–114
vegetarian, 115–116
websites, 98
what’s new, 1
Restrooms, 52
Rex Jazz and Blues Bar, 208
Rhonda Maternity, 186
Riverdale Farm, 6, 144
The Rivoli, 206, 208
Road-Post, 33
Robinson’s General Store
(Huntsville), 243
Rock-climbing, 151
ROMwalks, 136, 146
The Roof Lounge at the
Park Hyatt, 126, 213
Roots, 183–184
Rosedale, 46
Royal Agricultural Winter
Fair and Royal Horse
Show, 22–23
Royal Alexandra Theatre,
162, 200
Royal Bank Plaza,
138, 168, 192
(Hamilton), 249–250
Royal Conservatory of
Music, 204
Royal de Versailles
Jewellers, 189
Royal Food Centre, 157
Royal Ontario Museum,
2, 127–128, 143, 146
Royal taxi company, 49
Roy Thomson Hall, 162, 203
Rubies Beauty Bar, 188
S able-Castelli, 177
Safety, 52
Sailor, 215
St. Andrew’s Presbyterian
Church, 162
St. Jacobs, 222
St. Jacobs Outlet Mall
(St. Jacobs), 222
St. James Cathedral, 169,
204
St. Lawrence Centre for
the Arts, 200
St. Lawrence Hall, 169
St. Lawrence Market, 141,
169, 192
St. Michael’s Hospital, 50
St. Patrick’s Church, 204
St. Patrick’s Day Parade, 19
Sam the Record Man, 192
Samuel European Galleries,
127
Sandra Ainsley, 177
Sandra Ainsley gallery, 164
Santa Claus Parade, 23
Santa’s Village
(Bracebridge), 242
Sante—The Bloor-Yorkville
Wine Festival, 19
SARS, 13, 24, 25
Sasmart Smart Wear, 157
Scadding House, 137
Scarborough Town Centre,
192
School of Horticulture
Science Centre, Ontario,
128–129
Science City, 193
Scotia Tower, 165
Seafood stores, 156–157
Sears, 137, 182
Seasons, 18
Second City, 206
Security, airport, 34
Seekers Books, 179
Senior travelers, 26
Senses Bakery, 186
72 First Canadian Place, 162
Sex toys, 192–193
Shakespearean Garden
(Stratford), 220, 222
Shark City, 211
The Shaw Festival
(Niagara-on-the-Lake),
19, 227, 228
The Shoe Company, 181
Shoes, 193
Shopper’s Drug Mart, 52
Shopping, 171–195
best bargains, 180
neighborhoods for,
171–172
sales, 191
what’s new, 2
Side-Step, 28
Side trips, 2
Sights and attractions,
117–146
architectural highlights,
135–138
Frommer’s favorite
experiences, 3, 6–7
great views, 126
historic buildings, 138–140
for kids, 142–144
suggested itineraries,
117–118
what’s new, 2
Silverbridge, 190
The Silver Snail, 179
Sim & Jones, 184
Simone Marie Belgian
Chocolate, 186
Site59.com, 29
Skiing, 151
SkyDome, 6, 140, 151, 205
Skylon Tower Observation
Deck (Niagara Falls),
237–238
Slack Alice, 215
Smarter Living, 29
Smoking, 54–55, 80
Sneaky Dee’s, 210
Snowboarding, 151
Society for Accessible Travel
and Hospitality, 26
Sonic Boom concert series,
204
GENERAL INDEX
Sottovoce, 214
South Africa
airlines from, 34
Canadian High Commission in, 12
High Commission, 50
South African Airways, 34
Southern Po Boys, 208
Souz Dal, 212
Spadina Historic House &
Gardens, 139–140
Spas, 1, 148–149
Northern Ontario, 247
Speakers Corner, 145
Special events and festivals,
18–23
Spectator sports, 140,
151–170
Spring, 18
Spring Fever, 142
SpyTech, 178
STA Travel, 27, 35
Step Flight, 137
Stephen Bulger Gallery, 134,
177
Steven Temple Books, 179
Stillwater Spa, 149
Stratford, 7, 218–227
excursions from, 222
exploring, 220, 222
traveling to, 218
The Stratford Festival,
19–20, 218, 220
Stratford Festival
Accommodation Bureau,
223
Streetcars, 48
Student travelers, 27
Studio Theatre (Stratford),
220
Subway, 46–48
to/from airport, 41
map, 47
Sugar Mountain
Confectionery, 187
Summer, 18
Sun Life Centre’s second
tower, 162
Sunnybrook Hospital, 51
Sun protection, 19
Susan Hobbs Gallery, 177
Swimming, 151
Symphony of Fire, 20
T able of Contents, 159
Tafelmusik Baroque
Orchestra, 204
Tai Kong Supermarket, 156
Tai Sun Co., 154
Talking yellow pages, 53
Tam O’Shanter golf course,
150
Tango, 1
Tap Phong Trading Company,
156, 189
Tarragon Theatre, 202
Taschen!, 190
Taste of Little Italy, 20
A Taste of the World
Neighbourhood Bicycle
Tours and Walks, 146
Taxes, 53, 172
Taxis, 48–49
to/from airports, 40
tipping, 53
Teatro Verde, 189
Telephone, 53
Tel-Xtra, 28
Temperatures, average, 18
Tennis, 151
tournaments, 152
Tennis Masters Canada/
Rogers AT&T Cup, 21
Ten Ren Tea, 154
Textile Museum of Canada,
133
Theater, 6, 196–204
The Fringe—Toronto’s
Theatre Festival,
20–21, 196
The Shaw Festival
19, 227, 228
The Stratford Festival,
19–20, 220
Theater District, 45
Theatre Passe Muraille, 202
Thompson’s Homeopathic
Supplies, 188
Thrifty rental cars, 49
Ticketmaster, 119
Tiffany & Co., 190
Tilley Endurables, 159, 194
Time zone, 53
Tim Simms Playhouse, 206
Tipping, 53, 55
T-Mobile Hotspot, 31
TNT Man/TNT Woman, 184
Tommy Thompson Trail, 150
Tom Patterson Theatre
(Stratford), 220
Tom’s Place, 181
Top Banana, 193
Top O’ the Senator, 208
TorDine, 98
Toronto Bed & Breakfast, 55
Toronto Bicycling Network,
148
269
Toronto Blue Jays, 151
Toronto Centre for the Arts,
200
Toronto Climbing Academy,
151
Toronto.com, 9, 41–42, 98
Toronto Dance Theatre, 206
Toronto Dominion Centre,
136, 164–165
Toronto Dominion Gallery
of Inuit Art, 164
Toronto East General
Hospital, 51
Toronto Exchange Tower,
162, 164
Toronto Festival of
Storytelling, 19
Toronto General Hospital, 50
Toronto Historical Board, 146
Toronto International
Festival Caravan, 20
Toronto International Film
Festival, 21
Toronto Island Airport, 40
Toronto Island Bicycle
Rental, 148
The Toronto Islands,
44, 119, 124, 143, 147
Toronto Life, 9
Toronto Life Online, 98
Toronto Maple Leafs, 152
Toronto Maple Leafs
Opening Night, 22
Toronto Mendelssohn Choir,
204
Toronto Music Garden,
119, 159–160
Toronto Parks and
Recreation, 147
Toronto Prayer Line, 51
Toronto Reference Library,
135, 138
Toronto Sculpture Garden,
170
Toronto Star, 9
Toronto Symphony
Orchestra, 204
Toronto Transit Commission
(TTC), 46
Toronto Truck Theatre, 202
Toronto Zoo, 131, 143
Tourism Ontario, 12
Tourism Stratford, 218, 223
Tourism Toronto, 12, 41, 55
Tourist information,
12, 41–42
Tours. See also Boat tours
and cruises
organized, 144–146
Stratford, 222
package, 37
270
INDEX
Toys, 193–194
The Toy Shop, 194
Train travel, 36, 41
Trakkers Cross Country
Ski Club, 147
Transit information, 53
Transportation, 46–50
Transportation Security
Administration (TSA), 34
Transport Canada
Information Centre, 41
TransUnion, 18
Travel Assistance
International, 24
TravelAxe, 29
Travel CUTS, 27
Traveler’s checks, 15–16
Travelex Insurance
Services, 24
Travel goods, 194
Travel Guard
International, 24
Traveling Internationally
with Your Kids, 26–27
Traveling to Toronto,
33–37, 40–41
Travel insurance, 23–24, 35
Travel Insured
International, 24
Travellers Aid Society
of Toronto, 55
Travelocity, 28, 29, 37
The Travel Stop, 194
Travel Warnings, 32
Trillium Terminal 3, 40
Trinity Church, 137
Trinity/St. Paul’s United
Church, 204
Trinity Square, 137
Trip-cancellation insurance,
23–24
TSX Broadcast & Conference
Centre, 146
TTC Lost Articles Office, 51
U nderground City, The, 44
shopping, 172
The Unicorn, 214
Union Station, 158, 168
United Airlines, 33
United Kingdom
airlines from, 33
Canadian High
Commission in, 12
Consulate-General, 50
High Commission, 50
United Kingdom Passport
Service, 13
United Vacations, 37
University of Toronto,
27, 45, 136
Athletic Centre, 148, 151
concerts, 204
UpCountry, 189
Uptown, 43, 46
accommodations, 71
US Airways, 33
USIT Campus, 27
V
egetarian restaurants,
114–115
VIA Rail, 218, 227, 241
Victoria Spa, 149
Village by the Grange,
154, 192
Vintage clothing, 194–195
Vintages, 195
Virgin Atlantic, 33
Visa
ATM Locator, 32
Visitor information,
12, 41–42. See also
Websites
Visitor Rebate Program, 53
W alking tours
guided, 146
self-guided, 153–170
Chinatown and
Kensington,
153–158
Financial District,
160–166
Harbourfront,
158–160
St. Lawrence and
Downtown East,
166–170
Wards Island, 124, 147
Warplane Heritage Museum,
Canadian (Hamilton), 248
Waterloo, 222
Wayne Gretzky’s, 212
Wayport, 31
Weather, 18
information, 53
Weather.com, 32
Websites (online resources)
best, 9
restaurants, 98
traveler’s toolbox, 32
travel-planning and
booking, 28–30
visitor information,
12, 41–42
Wenches & Rogues, 184
Western Union, 17
WestJet, 1
West Queen West,
2, 45, 134
shopping, 172
Wheat Sheaf Tavern, 214
Wheel Excitement,
148, 150
Wheel-Trans, 25
Whim Antiques, 176
Whirlpool Aero Car, 236
Wild Indigo, 212
Wild Water Kingdom, 144
William Ashley’s, 180,
191
Wine bars, 214
Wine Rack, 51
Wineries, 228
Wines, 195
Winner’s, 181
Win’s Flowers, 157
Winter, 18
Winterfest, 19
Wired Seniors, 26
Wireless networks, 31–32
Women travelers, 28
Women Welcome Women
World Wide (5W), 28
Wonderful & Whites, 169
Woodbine Beach, 146
Woodbine Racetrack, 152
Woody’s, 215
Word on the Street,
21–22
The World’s Biggest
Bookstore, 179
W Y Trading Co., Inc.,
154, 156
Y ahoo! Mail, 31
Ydessa Hendeles Art
Foundation, 177
YMCA, pools at, 151
Yoga Studio, 148–149
Yonge-Dundas Square,
2, 203–204
Yonge Street, 42
York Quay, 118
York Quay Centre, 159
Yorkville, 6, 45, 135
shopping, 172
Young Peoples Theatre, 143
Yuk Yuk’s Superclub, 207
R E S TA U R A N T I N D E X
Z ara, 184
Zig Zag, 176
Zoo, Toronto, 131, 143
ACCOMMODATIONS
Acrylic Dreams (Stratford),
224
Albert Place (Stratford), 223
Ambercroft (Stratford), 224
Avonview Manor (Stratford),
224
Belaire Hotel Toronto
Airport, 74
Bentley’s (Stratford), 223
Best Western Roehampton
Hotel & Suites, 71
Bond Place Hotel, 67
Cambridge Suites Hotel, 65
Courtyard Toronto
Downtown, 67
Days Hotel—Toronto
Airport, 74
Days Inn & Conference
Centre Toronto
Downtown, 67
Deacon House (Stratford),
224
Deerhurst Resort
(Huntsville), 243–244, 247
Delta Chelsea, 7, 8, 64, 66
Delta Meadowvale Resort
& Conference Centre, 74
Embassy Suites, 71
Fairmont Royal York, 8, 58
Festival Inn (Stratford), 223
Four Points Sheraton Toronto
Airport, 74
Four Seasons Hotel Toronto,
8, 66, 68
Gate House Hotel
(Niagara-on-the-Lake), 231
Grandview Inn & Resort
(Huntsville), 244
Hilton Toronto, 55
Hilton Toronto Airport, 72
Holiday Inn on King, 64
Hôtel Le Germain,
1, 7, 55–56
Hotel Victoria, 65
Howard Johnson (Hamilton),
250
Howard Johnson Selby Hotel
& Suites, 8, 70–71
Howard Johnson Yorkville, 70
Inn at the Falls
(Bracebridge), 245–246
Inn on the Twenty (Jordan),
233
InterContinental Toronto,
68–69
Langdon Hall (Cambridge),
225
Edward Hotel, 7, 66–67
The Metropolitan Hotel,
7, 11, 58, 62
Moffat Inn (Niagara-on-theLake), 232
Neill-Wycik College Hotel,
67–68
Oban Inn (Niagara-on-theLake), 231
The Old Bank House
Park Hyatt Toronto, 7, 8, 69
Pillar & Post Inn
Prince of Wales Hotel
231–232
Quality Hotel Downtown, 68
Quality Hotel Midtown, 70
The Queen’s Inn (Stratford),
223
Queen’s Landing Inn
Admiral, 62, 71, 159
Ramada, 71
Regal Constellation
Hotel, 73
Renaissance Toronto
Hotel at SkyDome, 62
Severn River Inn
(Severn Bridge), 246
Sheraton (Hamilton), 250
Sheraton (Scarborough), 71
The Sheraton Centre
Toronto, 63, 66
Sheraton Gateway Hotel
in Toronto International
Airport, 72–73
Sheraton on the Falls,
238, 240
SoHo Metropolitan Hotel,
1, 7, 56
The Strathcona, 65
The Sutton Place Hotel,
8, 70
Taboo Resort (Gravenhurst),
244–245, 247
Tamwood Resort
(Bracebridge), 245
Toronto Airport Marriott
Hotel, 73–74
271
Toronto Marriott Eaton
Centre, 63
University of Toronto at
Scarborough, 72
Victoria University, 8, 71
Westin Harbour Castle,
63–64
Westin Prince Hotel, 72
White Oaks Conference
Resort & Spa (Niagara-onthe-Lake), 232
Windermere House Resort,
245
Woods Villa (Stratford), 225
Wyndham Bristol Place, 73
RESTAURANTS
Acqua, 168
Agora, 11, 87, 130
Amore Trattoria, 113, 130
Angel Inn (Niagara-on-theLake), 233
Restaurant, 114
Annona at the Park Hyatt,
10, 101
Astoria, 109
Auberge du Pommier, 110
Avalon, 84, 130
Avenue Coffee Shop, 107
Avli, 109–110
Barberian’s, 10, 84–85
Bentley’s (Stratford), 226
Betty’s Restaurant & Tavern
Biagio, 170
Biff’s, 9, 10, 96–97, 130
Bistro 990, 10, 100
Blondie’s (Gravenhurst), 247
Bloor Street Diner, 105
Blowfish Restaurant & Sake
Bar, 1, 8, 10, 87–88
Boathouse Cafe, 159
Boba, 101
Brassaii, 1, 8, 10, 90–91
The Buttery (Niagara-on-theLake), 233–234
Bymark, 85
Café Brussel, 108
Cafe Diplomatico, 216
Café Garibaldi (St.
Catharines), 234
Café Nervosa, 103
Café Societa, 91
Café Victoria., 170
Canoe Restaurant & Bar,
8, 85, 126
272
INDEX
Caribbean Roti Corner, 109
Casa d’Oro (Niagara Falls),
240
Centro, 9, 110–111
Chiado, 9–10, 88
Christina’s, 108, 109
The Church (Stratford),
225–226
Cities, 91
Citron, 91
Colony Kitchen, 1, 103, 130
Commodore’s Dining Room,
159
Courthouse Market Grille, 97
Co Yen, 156
Crush, 91–92
Daily Express Café, 216
Dante’s, 116
Demetre Caffe, 216
Desserts by Phipps, 216
Diner on the Green
Dufflet Pastries, 11, 216
Eau, 85
Ecco La, 92
Ellipsis (Huntsville), 246
Epic, 8, 88
The Epicurean, 233
Fans Court (Niagara-on-theLake), 234
Far Niente, 88
The Fifth, 85–86
The Food Market, 154
Fortune Cookie, 92, 93
Fressen, 114
Future Bakery, 217
Gallery Café, 159
Goldfish, 103
Good Queen Bess, 166
The Goof, 107
Grand Yatt, 116
Grano, 93, 113, 130
Greg’s Ice Cream, 216
Gus, 10, 103–104
Gypsy Co-op, 217
Hannah’s Kitchen, 114, 130
Happy Seven, 95, 109,
130, 156
Hello Toast, 99
Hennepin’s (Virgil), 234
Hillebrand’s Vineyard Café
(between Niagara-on-theLake and Virgil), 235
Hiro Sushi, 10, 97
HotHouse Cafe, 98, 130, 169
Il Posto Nuovo, 9, 101–102
Indian Rice Factory, 105
Iseya (St. Catharines),
234–235
Jacques Bistro du Parc,
104, 130
Japan Deli, 106
Joso’s, 104
Juice for Life, 114
Jump Café and Bar, 89, 164
Just Desserts, 216
Kalendar, 95, 115
Kensington Kitchen, 93, 106
Keystone Alley Cafe
(Stratford), 226
La Bodega, 92, 130
La Bruschetta, 111–112
La Cantina (Hamilton), 250
Lai Wah Heen, 11, 89
Lakes, 112
Lalibela, 106
La Maquette, 170
Langdon Hall (Cambridge),
225
La Palette, 92, 158
Lee Garden, 95, 130, 156
Le Papillon, 99, 130, 169
Edward Hotel, 10, 170
Le Sélect Bistro, 92–93
Lettieri, 217
Lolo, 1, 113
Lox, Stock & Bagel, 106
Mars, 107
Matignon, 104
Messis, 10, 104
Mezes, 110
Mezzetta, 113, 115
Mildred Pierce, 93
Millie’s Bistro, 10, 93,
112, 115
Mistura, 102
Monsoon, 8, 86
Montréal Bistro & Jazz
Club, 99
Movenpick Marché, 168
Myth, 108, 109
Nataraj, 106, 130
Niagara Home Bakery
North 44, 10, 111
Octavia, 108, 109
The Old Prune (Stratford),
226
On the Twenty Restaurant
& Wine Bar (Jordan), 235
Opus, 100–101
Oro, 89
Ouzeri, 110
Pangaea, 102
Pan on the Danforth,
10, 108–109
Patriot, 102
Pearl Harbourfront Chinese
Cuisine, 159
Penelope, 95
Perry’s Restaurant
(Hamilton), 251
Peter Pan, 93
Pho Hung, 106–107
Pinnacle (Niagara Falls), 240
Pony, 94
Quartier, 112
Queen Mother Cafe, 95–96
Queenston Heights, 240
Admiral, 159
Rain, 9, 89–90, 130
Rebel House, 115
Rinderlin’s (Welland), 235
Ristorante Giardino
The Rivoli, 96
Rodney’s Oyster House, 94
Rosewater Supper Club,
8, 97
Rouge, 104–105
Rundles (Stratford), 226–227
Sang Ho, 94, 130
Scaramouche, 9, 111
Senses, 90, 115, 130
Serra, 10, 107, 130
7 West Café, 109
Shaw Cafe and Wine Bar
Sheraton Centre, 166
Shopsy’s, 10, 93, 100, 168
Sicilian Ice Cream Company,
216
The Skyline Inn (Niagara
Falls), 240
Sotto Sotto, 105
Sottovoce, 96
Soul of the Vine, 88
Southern Accent, 105
Spinnakers, 159
Splendido Bar and Grill, 102
SpringRolls, 107
Stagecoach Family
Restaurant (Niagaraon-the-Lake), 233
Stork on the Roof, 113–114
Sun Lok, 154
Susur, 86
Swan, 94
Table Rock Restaurant
Taro Grill, 94
Terra, 116
Terroni, 99
Thai Magic, 112
3 Guys and a Stove, 247
R E S TA U R A N T I N D E X
360 Revolving Restaurant,
9, 86
Torch Bistro, 97
Tortilla Flats, 96
Truffles, 101, 115
Tundra, 8, 86–87
ZVanipha Lanna, 114
Veni Vidi Vici, 94–95
Victoria Park Restaurant
240
Vineland Estates (Vineland),
235–236
Wellington Court Restaurant
(St. Catharines), 235
Wildfire (Gravenhurst),
10, 246
273
Wish, 1, 99
Xacutti, 1, 90
York Street Kitchen
(Stratford), 227
Young Thailand, 100, 130
YYZ, 87
ZooM Caffe & Bar, 98

to 273 page pdf book

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