PDF version - American Gem Trade Association

A M E R I C A N
G E M T R A D E
A S S O C I A T I O N VOL 1 – 2015
The 2015 Leon Ritzler
Honorary Member Award
Spring 2015 – Hushed Hues
Statement Making Designs
2015 AGTA
Spectrum™ Awards
Profile: Ming-Na Wen
2015 Color Forecast
member profile
Katey Brunini – K. Brunini
Prism Focus on
Chrysoprase Chalcedony
Ming-Na Wen
firm profile
John Buechner
Sooner or later, the world’s most
extraordinary gems will cross paths with
RaHul KadaKia.
Here, Christie’s Senior VP, Head of Jewelry Americas,
shares priceless insight into the jewelry business
and the value of an expert education.
A master eye for gems … born or made? Coming from four generations of jewelers undoubtedly piqued my interest in this great business. But one
needs to constantly train their eye by looking at gems – the more you learn, the better you will be at identifying and pricing gems, as well as being an effective
salesperson and well-rounded businessman.
Something most people don’t know about you. GIA is what brought me to Christie’s. After studying in Santa Monica, I attended a GIA Career Fair where
I had my first interview with the company.
Ok. Definitely a story there? I started work when I was 17 and five years into it, I thought I knew pretty much everything there was to know … until I enrolled at GIA.
The Institute’s meticulous training and high standards exposed me to a whole new world of expertise.
Ultimate sales edge … emotion or expertise? Jewelry is an emotional shopping experience, but expertise plays a decisive role. It’s wonderful to show
people a brilliant diamond, but it means more when you can follow up with a skillful explanation of the 4Cs exemplified in that particular gem.
Lean economy. Less jewelry? At the nexus of the downturn in late 2008, we sold the Wittelsbach Blue Diamond for $24 million, a world record price back
then for any gem ever sold at auction. When you have great gems and jewels, the money makes itself available.
Any advice to the up and coming? Don’t lose the passion that brought you to this business, and above all, keep learning every day.
GIA gratefully acknowledges those who use our resources to further world
expertise in gems. Invest in your success at www.giA.eDU
M e m b e r s h i p
B e n e f i t s
The American Gem Trade Association is a not-for-profit Association of
United States and Canadian gemstone professionals dedicated to promoting
awareness and appreciation of natural colored gemstones and cultured pearls.
boar d o f
d i r e c to r s
P r e s i de n t
Ruben Bindra
B & B Fine Gems
Vic e P r e s i de n t s
Jeffrey Bilgore
Jeffrey Bilgore, LLC
Gerry Manning
Manning International, Inc.
S e c r e ta ry
Cynthia Renée
Cynthia Renée, Inc.
Tr e a s u r e r
John Bachman
John M. Bachman, Inc.
Dir ectors
Pramod Agrawal
Shanu G., Inc.
Bruce Bridges
Bridges Tsavorite
Sushil Goyal
Liberty Gems, Inc.
Bill Heher
Rare Earth Mining Co., Inc.
Gina Latendresse
American Pearl Company, Inc.
Niveet Nagpal
Omi Gems, Inc.
Avi Raz
A & Z Pearls, Inc.
Simon Watt
Mayer & Watt
Bear Williams
Bear Essentials
Larry Woods
Jewels From The Woods
Pa s t P r e s i de n t
Benjamin Hackman
Intercolor, Inc.
C h i e f E x e c u t i v e O f f ic e r
Douglas K. Hucker
American Gem Trade Association
Founded in 1981, the AGTA has over 1,200 Members representing leading
colored gemstone and cultured pearl wholesalers, retailers, manufacturers,
designers, colored diamond dealers, estate dealers and industry professionals.
AGTA Members are proud to uphold the highest ethical standards, agreeing
to the Association’s strict Code of Ethics & full disclosure of gemstone
enhancements.
Membership provides you with many exclusive benefits and services:
Members are eligible to exhibit in some of the most important annual events
in the gemstone and jewelry industry, including AGTA GemFair™ Tucson,
AGTA GemFair™ at the JCK Las Vegas Show, and AGTA Pavilions at the
JA New York Summer Show & The Smart Jewelry Show in Chicago.
Members are featured in the AGTA Source Directory, both the printed and
online versions. This is a powerful tool that gives access to a valuable network
of fellow gemstone professionals. Over 15,000 copies are distributed!
Members stay informed about the AGTA, hot topics surrounding our industry,
gemstone & jewelry fashion with the quarterly Prism & weekly ePrism.
Members have access to leading industry programs. These programs include
Bank of America Merchant Services, FedEx Express®, FedEx Declared Value,
FedEx Office, GE Money Luxury, Association Health Programs, and car rentals
with Avis and Budget.
Members can also access our AGTA Online Community and gain valuable
knowledge from our AGTA GemFair™Tucson Seminar DVDs and eLearning
Platform.
The professionalism of AGTA Members continues to set them apart from
the competition.
Prism
For further information or to advertise, please contact:
American Gem Trade Association
3030 LBJ Frwy., Ste. 840 Dallas, TX 75234
800-972-1162 FAX: 214-742-7334
[email protected]
www.agta.org
www.addmorecolortoyourlife.com
COVER: Ming-Na Wen
Produced and Styled by Tod Hallman for Ivy Eleven; Photographer
Andrew Macpherson for Copious Management; Makeup Julianne
Kay, for Cloutier Remix; Hair Steven Lewis for Exclusive Artists;
Manicurist Tracey Sutter for Ivy Eleven; Earrings: Kendra Grace,
Nature’s Geometry - Platinum “Elentari’s Wings” earrings featuring
“Wheel of Light” Quartz disks with Paraiba Tourmaline, Hauyn
and Sugelite, accented with Paraiba Tourmalines and Diamonds.
Ring: Leon Mege, Leon Mege, Inc. - Platinum ring featuring a 4.71
ct. Paraiba Tourmaline accented with French-cut Diamonds (1.31
ctw.). Dress: JS Collections Boutique - multi-colored silk gown with
ruched bodice
1
F ro m
t h e
p r e s i d e n t
ruben bindra
Dear Friends,
Happy New Year!!!
I hope you all had a great Holiday Season and enjoyed some down time with
your loved ones.
As we all start thinking about business in the New Year, the first important event
for most of us, of course, is the AGTA Gem Fair™ Tucson. I can’t help but look
back at 2014 and be amazed by the popularity of colored gemstones in our
entire industry. From fashion designers to major brand names to multinational
jewelry manufacturers, everywhere I look Color Is King.
We saw major auction houses break several world records for exceptional items that sold last year.
Laurence Graff purchased the 8.62 carat Graff Ruby for a second time at Sotheby’s Geneva sale paying
$8.6 million and setting a world record price for a Ruby. We also saw Christie’s sell the “Blue Belle of
Asia,” a cushion cut Ceylon Sapphire and diamond necklace for $17.3 million, another new world record.
However, business is not that easy. The internet and competition from other consumer products, like
electronics, are making our business very challenging and competitive. Luxury consumption is now
competing with products like iPhones and iPads. As I talk to several of my friends in our industry the
feeling is mutual that we need to constantly change and reinvent the way we do business. How we take
advantage of this unprecedented wave of colored gemstone popularity is up to us individually. Marketing
is based upon our targeted audience; we all do our best to cater to our customers and their needs.
Now, buying is a different story. Whether you are a gemstone supplier, designer/manufacturer, or retailer
of colored gemstones and cultured pearls, you know that how you buy the product is just as important,
if not more important, as how you sell it.
During my several buying trips to the Far East, I found buying was not so easy. Competition at the source
for goods was more intense than ever. New treatments are always a challenge and make buying very
tricky. One needs to be careful and know the source. Buying with confidence from an ethical supplier
is of the utmost importance.
AGTA GemFair™ is the finest show in Tucson. At AGTA you can find the largest collection of gemstones,
cultured pearls, and beads anywhere. Nowhere in the universe can you find such an amazing collection
under one roof.
Becoming an AGTA member requires a detailed application process whereby references, background
and expertise are checked, and after a thorough review by the staff and a recommendation from the
Membership Committee, the application is considered and voted on by the Board of Directors for final
approval. So when you see an exhibitor at AGTA GemFair™, you can rest assured that this company
has been through an application process that is consistent and thorough. AGTA members adhere to the
highest ethical standards in the industry. Any and all treatments are disclosed at the point of sale. In the
ever-evolving treatment era, you can leave the worry behind and buy with confidence from an AGTA
member. If you are not an AGTA member, I encourage you to apply and become a member of this elite
group and be recognized as part of an association where the highest ethical business practice is a standard.
As we say Buy Safe, Buy Smart, Buy AGTA!!!
Wishing you all a Prosperous and Peaceful 2015!
Sincerely yours,
Ruben Bindra
President
2
Fancy Sapphire
AGTA GemFair Tucson | AGTA GemFair Las Vegas | Couture Las Vegas | Luxury Privé New York
877.OMI.GEMS | omigems.com | omiprive.com | [email protected]
F ro m
t h e
C EO
douglas k. hucker
It’s always an exciting time when we’re putting together the Volume 1 issue of our Prism
magazine because it’s our AGTA Spectrum Awards™ issue. We release it at the AGTA GemFair™
Tucson, in an environment where readers are immersed in gemstones of every color, shape and
form. This is an excellent opportunity for our readers to see the winning pieces of jewelry, recognize trends that are emerging, and to be inspired by the artistry of their peers.
The trends we see at Spectrum can be instructive as to what materials our GemFair attendees
should be seeking in order to most effectively merchandise their inventories for the coming year.
Then again, unless you have a practiced eye for color and a rudimentary understanding of color
theory, you could just end up surrounded by thousands of beautiful gemstones and cultured pearls
with very little sense of direction, overwhelmed by the sheer volume of the choice. Developing a
plan and focusing on the results you want to achieve can go a long way to reduce your stress, help
you make good, informed buying decisions, and improve the return on your gemstone jewelry when you get back home.
Let’s begin with the trends we saw this year in the Spectrum Awards Competition. If you’re reading this at the
GemFair, you must make an effort to visit the Spectrum Awards display in the 1600 aisle in the Designer/Manufacturer
Pavilion. This is your opportunity to see the designs and gems that stood out to our panel of judges. It represents the
best-of-the-best of the nearly 500 pieces that were entered. Rings predominated the mix of entries this year, as they
often do. 168 rings were entered this year, followed by earrings (78), pendants (45) and necklaces (37). Yellow gold was
the favored metal, used in 151 entries, followed by white gold (85), platinum (67) and rose gold at 41 entries. Regarding
colored gemstones and pearls, the most popular gem was tourmaline, with 62 entries. This is not surprising given that
tourmaline provides such a broad palette of colors. First runner-up, with 46 entries was the always popular sapphire.
Surprisingly strong this year, when compared with years past, was opal, with 43 entries. Much of the opal was black opal
and boulder opal, along with Ethiopian material. Pearl, opal and garnet rounded out the rest of the field.
In the nearly two decades that I have been associated with this competition, I don’t remember a year when the
favorite color of choice was anything but blue, and this held true once again this year. 110 entries were blue, and nearly as
many entries, 101, were in the “multi-colored” category. Greens of all kinds had 57 entries, pink 44, purple and red with 25
each and orange with 20.
As happens each year, Pantone announces the color of the year. Last year’s selection was Radiant Orchid and we
saw a significant uptick in calls from manufacturers for pink and purple gems; think amethyst in all hues and saturations,
morganite, pink tourmaline and rhodolite garnets. This year, the Pantone color of the year is Marsala, a hue that Pantone
describes as “a naturally robust and earthy wine red.” Think the more wine colors of garnets, spinels, tourmaline and some
zircons.
In order to have the greatest of success with your gemstone inventory you need to be able to advise your clients
about color choices that are going to complement the fashion they will be seeing on the runway and in the stores. While
Marsala will be a prolific color, it will be accented with colors that are different but work well with its earthy red tones. To
understand what colors (gemstones) will work with Marsala, follow this link http://www.pantone.com/pages/
index.aspx?pg=21167. Marsala will work wonderfully with most shades of brown, umber, amber and golden yellows.
Here you should be thinking about citrines in all hues from lemon to deep burnt oranges and browns. Topaz and the
brown-hued zircons would also be excellent candidates. Greens in more muted shades, along with teal and turquoise
also work well. Be thinking sea foam tourmalines, green quartz and turquoise and almost all vibrant shades of blue, from
sapphire, spinel, tanzanite and iolite.
An understanding of the synergistic relationship between fashion and jewelry will allow you to focus on colors that
will complement the wardrobe and the accessories that your clients will be seeing in the department stores this year, and
improve your success in providing them with jewelry that suits their lifestyle and their fashion sense.
Sincerely,
Douglas K. Hucker
Chief Executive Officer
4
Exceptional Gemstones
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Th e 2 015 Le on Ritz le r Honorary
M e mbe r Award: Owe n Borde lon
E
arly on, when the October of its inaugu AGTA defined the
ral year, 1981. By 1983,
different Member
Owen was exhibiting at
classifications, they
the AGTA GemFair at the
included an Honorary
Doubletree Hotel and in
Member category. The
1987 he joined the Board
Honorary Member could
of Directors. While his
be any person selected
presidency was several
by the Board of Directors,
years away, Owen became
who had made a meaningintimately involved in the
Above: Rangoon, Burma, 1988
ful contribution to the
Association’s affairs. As an
Below: Trat Province,Thailand, 1987
growth and/or improveattorney, Owen brought a
ment of the natural
critical legal perspective to
colored gemstone
the Association during its
industry. This person
formative years. “If there
was not required to be a
is such a thing,” remarks
Member of AGTA;
Owen, “I was everyone’s
however the selection was
favorite kind of attorlimited to no more than
ney….free.” It was during
two (2) honorees in any
these early years that
given year. Many illustriOwen was instrumental in
ous names are on this
rewriting our governing
list today, including
documents, the ConstiDr. Edward Gubelin,
tution and the Code of
Richard Liddicoat, and
Ethics.
Ray Zajicek, Roland
Although some of
Naftule, Dr. Jeffrey Post,
Owen’s most significant
and Maurice Shire to
contributions came during
mention but a few.
his tenure as president, his path to becoming a gemstone
In 2001, this award was re-named the Leon Ritzler
trader was nonpareil. Owen was born and raised in New
Honorary Member Award in order to commemorate
Orleans, the mecca for America’s only original musical
Leon Ritzler, the first president of the association. The
genre, jazz. He maticulated Loyola University in New
naming of this award forever honors his service to the
Orleans, where he majored in Music Theory and
AGTA and his dedication to promoting an ethical group
Composition, and became a professional piano player in
of colored gemstone dealers. During Leon’s presidency,
the New Orleans music community, playing nightclubs
1981 – 1982, the association was officially named and the
and supper clubs. As a professional musician in New
Directors established the Constitution, Code of Ethics,
Orleans, Owen had opportunity to accompany visiting
and Member guidelines. Interestingly, three possible
celebrities, notably Julie London and Ella Fitzgerald.
names for the association were submitted to the state of
Taking a sabbatical from the music scene, Owen
New York. Ultimately, it was the state that decided on the
joined the U.S. Army as an Infantry officer in the
name, American Gem Trade Association.
paratroopers where he rose to the rank of Infantry
This year, the 2015 Leon Ritzler Honorary Member
Captain in the Airborne Ranger. Next came law school,
Award is bestowed to Owen Bordelon, who served two
again at Loyola University, where he received his law
terms as AGTA’s President from 1993 to 1996. Although
degree and became a member of the American Bar
not a Charter Member, Owen began pursuing his interest
and Louisiana Trial Lawyers Bar Association, eventually
in gemstones during the years that many of the foundserving as a judge in both the civil and criminal courts
ing members were exhibitors at the Gem & Lapidary
in Louisiana.
Dealers Association (GLDA) show at the then-Holiday
It was in the late 1970s when the siren song of
Inn, now the Hotel Arizona. Owen joined the AGTA in
colored gemstones reached out to Owen. A lifelong
6
passion for science
important contribuand esthetics,
tions to AGTA, Owen
especially with
notes the work he did
light and
with Sue Patch, of the
color, Owen was
Federal Trade Commisswept up in the
sion, in rewriting the
“gemstone incolored stone portion
vestment craze”
of the FTC Guides
that dominated
for the jewelry industhe late 70’s and
try, and his successful
early 80’s. “Like
negotiations with the
many neophytes,”
City of Tucson and the
says Owen, “I
Tucson Gem and
purchased my
Mineral Society to
share of mistakes,
move the AGTA
many of them
GemFair from the
becoming gravel
Doubletree Hotel to
in my aquarium.”
the Tucson Convention
It wasn’t until
Center. “The first,”
he attended a conference, presented by Precious Stones
notes Owen, “firmly established the AGTA as the voice
Newsletter, that Owen began to mature as a gem lover.
of the colored gemstone industry. The move to the
At that conference in New Orleans, Owen met Jack
convention center brought the AGTA into the bigtime,
Abraham, a Charter Member of the AGTA. Over lunch,
expanding the show size to accommodate all members
Jack, then known in some circles as the “Ruby Baron,”
while providing a revenue source that allowed the AGTA
took Owen under his wing and introduced him to the
to fulfill its greater mission.” He has, as a result of his interest
magnificent world of ruby. This entailed many hours of
in gemology and physics, authored a number of scientific
conversation and reportedly, a great deal of Burma ruby
papers, and designed and developed several diagnostic
spread randomly about a hotel room bed.
instruments for the gemological community. One, a low
The following year, Owen made his first pilgrimlevel radiation detection unit and software, is currently in
age to the gem shows in Tucson and met other dealers
use in gemstone laboratories around the world.
who would become Charter Members of AGTA, among
Today, Owen still pursues his passion for gemstones,
them Bill Larson, Colin Curtis and Jack Sabzavari. It was
but much of his time is devoted to other interests as well.
during this inaugural
He has served as legal
trip that most of the
counsel and provided
American dealers,
legal assistance to the
most of whom were
Flood Control
exhibiting at the
District for years, as
GLDA show, decided
well as in the afterto form the AGTA,
math of Hurricane
which Owen joined
Katrina. Three years
shortly afterward. In
ago, he began flying
1987 he joined the
again, soaring over
Board of Directors
the delta in vintage
and in 1993 he was
World War Two
elected president,
airplanes, and
serving two terms.
he continues to
When asked
dabble in his love
Top down:World War II Fighter P-51 Mustang, 2013; Korea, 1965;
what he perceives
of painting.
Surprise
dinner
party
honoring
Maurice
Shire,
2005
By Douglas K. Hucker
among his most
7
Pantone swatches and designer sketches are courtesy of the Pantone Color Institute.
Hushed
Hues,
Statement
Making
Designs
S
pring trends spied on the runways at
Mercedes Benz Fashion Week New York reflect
a soft, cool palette, balanced with warm, muted
tones in statement making jewelry designs. In
necklaces, there were bold collars, multi-colored
bejeweled bibs, organic raw stone designs, and
long neckpieces with big medallion-style
pendants. Shoulder-dusting hoops in new shapes,
mismatched pairs, and button styles re-imagined topped
the earrings on the catwalks, as well as boldly graphic bangle
and cuff bracelets.
8
Spring
2015
Fashion inspirations run the gamut from Italy and
Brazil in the 1960s and color and pattern mixing in
central and eastern Asian textiles to the Los Angeles floral
mart and artists like Jackson Pollack and Georgia O’Keeffe.
“Remembrances of retro delights, folkloric and floral art,
and the magical worlds of tropical landscapes restore a
sense of well-being as we head into the warmer months,”
describes Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the
Pantone Color Institute.
Our 24-7 obsession to be connected, says Eiseman, is
fueling a movement to disconnect from (continued page 11)
Top Clockwise; Crevoshay 18K yellow gold opal earrings; Stuller sterling silver
multi-gemstone ring; Omi Prive 18K rose gold Imperial topaz and diamond ring;
Omi Prive 18K rose gold Morganite and diamond earrings; Omi Prive 18K
yellow gold Paraiba tourmaline and diamond ring; Stuller 14K rose gold pink
tourmaline and diamond ring; Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry 18K yellow gold
peach moonstone and zircon earrings; Imperial Pearl sterling silver blue crystal and
dyed freshwater pearl earrings.
9
Photos by Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz
10
technology and unwind, so color choices are following a
minimalistic ‘en plein air’ theme. This muted, pastel palette is
likely good for the jewelry industry says jewelry stylist to the
stars, Michael O’Connor, who advocates using softer colors
to create more important looks without being too pricey.
Big in this spectrum are tourmaline, garnet, beryl, topaz, and
quartz gems. Also popular in fashion-forward jewelry are
more included precious material like rubies and sapphires
with lots of silk, gem slices, and rough crystal.
Jewelry Messenger
Coveted styles for 2015 seek to rediscover the jewel as a
messenger and reinterpret ways to adorn the body, describes
trends analysis by Swarovski in its annual Gem Visions Trends
2015 report. “The focus is on dualities of style,” tells Dr.
Birgit Rieder, director gem creative and retail marketing,
“genuine and created stones for the Austrian-based brand
Swarovski, with its North American headquarters in
Cranston, Rhode Island.”
Fresh design directions look to balance old and new,
natural and man made, and engage all of the senses. Rieder
sees a lot more fun and exploration in jewelry wearing via
designs that embrace a mix of precious and non-precious
elements, are versatile and adaptable, and communicate
personal messages.
Favorite design themes center on nature and the world
around us, like vining roses, leaves and palms, describes
Ashley Brown, executive director, marketing and public
relations, Stuller, Lafayette, Louisiana. Feathers and fur are
also popular, either as accents of trim, fringe or prints. She
adds that textured metals will continue to be popular like
beading, rope and hammered finishes.
O’Connor reports that while there is resurgence in
yellow gold, the use of rose gold is much more prevalent.
Also, blackened metals–oxidized gold, platinum and silver,
and alternative metals like tungsten carbide and titanium
are popular.
Color Me Gems
Blues and greens dominate the Pantone palette for spring,
with four of the top 10 colors in this spectrum—Aquamarine, Scuba Blue, Classic Blue, and Lucite Green—which
embrace an array of gem varieties.
Obsessed with blue-green stories, Los Angeles designer
Pamela Froman has been attracted to gems like boulder opal,
aquamarine, Paraiba tourmaline, tanzanite, sapphire, and tsavorite. “When it comes to aquamarine, I prefer milky Brazilian specimens that happen to match Pantone’s ‘Aquamarine.’
My Caribbean Crush collection, a combination of tanzanite
and Paraiba tourmaline, is similar to Pantone’s ‘Classic Blue’
and ‘Scuba Blue.’ It’s already a hot seller; the mix of vibrant
blue-green and rich indigo makes people smile!”
Also experiencing a blue period, artist Paula Crevoshay
of Albuquerque, New Mexico has been infatuated with gems
like apatite, tanzanites, sapphires, and opals. “Tourmalines,
opals and all of the blues are the hottest colors out there and
are so easy to pair with so many other colors, textures and
moods in fashion.” She says she is also working with lots of
pearls in metallic multi-colors, noting that large, chunky and
baroque pearls are hot!
With Marsala hailed Color of the Year, gems in fresh,
fruity reds that lean toward raspberry or strawberry are
expected to be significant. “It’ll be a (continued page 12)
Top down: Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry 18K yellow gold rainbow
moonstone and Tanzanite necklace; Stuller 14K yellow gold multi-colored
quartz ring; Susan Wheeler Designs rose gold dendritic agate ring.
11
Top down: Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry 18K yellow gold Tanzanite
and Paraiba tourmaline ring; Imperial Pearl sterling silver black drusy and
freshwater cultured pearl pendant; Crevoshay 18K yellow gold Mexican
fire opal, tsavorite garnet and diamond pin/pendant; Loretta Castoro
Collection pink gold morganite earrings; Loretta Castoro Collection
18K white gold London blue topaz and tsavorite garnet ring.
12
strong color in statement earrings, stackable bangles and
amazing cocktail rings,” says Rieder. The tonal aspect of
using the many shades of pink and red gems creates a soft
but important statement. Everyone can relate to some shade
of red or pink. Marsala is perfect for subtle, ladylike floral
designs: less punch, more romance!
There’s been a surge of interest in warm, jewel tones
the past year. “Spinel has been popular, specifically warmer
tones in deep pinks, reds and purples,” cites Niveet
Nagpal, president and head designer of Omi Privé, Los
Angeles. “Pink tourmaline, especially rubellite, is another
fashionable stone in this hue.” Also important are fancy color
sapphires in shades of peach, orange, padparadscha, purple,
and violet—a rainbow of options for those who like the
romance of sapphire, but desire something more unique than
traditional blue.
Morganite, too, remains a key gem in jewelry, hails Los
Angeles designer Loretta Castoro. “It has sold well for me
and I’ve heard from gem dealers that retailers are also asking
for peach sapphires. The soft peach color is a great complement to most skin tones.” Moreover, one of Froman’s most
popular collections, her 18K pink and yellow gold Ombre
Arabesque, features a natural color zircon called “malaia” that
could easily be called “marsala” for its reddish-brown color.
Look for all of the neutrals—Marsala, Titanium, Toasted
Almond, Glacier Gray, Custard and Sandstone—to be the
hot natural diamond colors, forecasts Chicago-based
designer Susan Wheeler Geraghty. “The Dendritic quartz
and all gems that have distinctive natural patterns also will
continue to grow in popularity. They’re all individually
unique, which customers love.”
The ultimate gem appeal may very well be in the blend
of different stones in one piece. New York designer Bella
Campbell has taken this tack in her jewelry that combines
gem types, colors and shapes in elegantly simple geometric
designs. A great example is found in her 18K gold pendant
earrings that showcase purple, red, pink, and hot pink spinel
(9.09 ctw.) and dark purple sapphire (2.03 ctw.) in different
shapes and sizes. This perfectly imperfect pair epitomizes
the mismatched design direction consumers are embracing,
influenced by Hollywood and the red carpet. Unique and
intriguing, it’s all about the variety of stones used.
Also tops on designers’ list of favorite gems are pearls.
“Variety in product and price is fueling a design fervor in
this category,” tells Kathy Grenier, marketing director for
Imperial Pearl, Providence, Rhode Island. There are so
many variations that allow pearls to transcend fashion
trends; with few exceptions virtually any jewelry design
can be interpreted in pearls. “Natural and dyed pearl colors
complement the Pantone palette season after season. Pearls’
lustrous, reflective qualities also make them perfect partners
with colorful gems and metals.”
The 21st century woman enjoys shaking things up in
her jewelry and fashion, underlines Crevoshay. “She loves
to pair high-end classical jewelry with a casual flair, as well
as create her own look by combining those elements with
more of a Bohemian expression in clothing. She can be
anything she wants and knows it. Retailers need to reflect
this in their merchandising and marketing mix to encourage
clients to experiment and explore!”
By Deborah Yonick, Jewelery Style Expert
imagine
i
magination is a powerful tool to an artist. The flash of a colored gemstone can ignite a spark; an image in nature can morph into a design
concept; a rough piece of gemstone can become
an intricate carving in the mind’s eye…and with each
of these occurrences, the artist imagines the possibilities.
Lovingly handcrafting a piece of jewelry or polishing
the perfect gemstone, the artists’ vision transforms from
imagination to fruition. And as an entry in the AGTA
Spectrum Awards™ competition, we reap the rewards
and the beauty of a powerful imagination brought to
life. “The level of artistry never ceases to amaze me,” said
Douglas K. Hucker, AGTA CEO, “from the seasoned
veteran to the design neophyte, each entry is a testament
to the imagination and the heart of the creator.”
With almost 500 works of art to preview, the panel of esteemed judges for the 2015 AGTA Spectrum
Awards™ studied each entry; they graded them based
on the criteria in the Judging Procedures; they discussed
the pros and cons from the technical to the imaginative,
and maybe even argued a bit.
Following the rigorous judging process in New York,
all of the Spectrum entries were presented at the AGTA
Spectrum Awards™ Media Event. Staging a room full
of imagination to top consumer and industry fashion
editors, writers and bloggers has become an annual
go-to event. “The Spectrum Awards Media Event is
14
always an excellent opportunity to showcase what is
trending in terms of colored gemstones and cultured
pearls. It seems that each year, the designers who enter
pieces into the Spectrum competition continue to outdo
themselves,” said Michelle Orman, President, Last Word
Communications, “I know that the media who attend
each year always look forward to seeing which direction
the artists’ imaginations have gone, and how they might
use that in their own work. It’s not at all uncommon
for an editor or stylist to pull pieces for photo shoots or
red carpet events directly from the event, and that’s very
rewarding for everyone involved!”
In addition to the AGTA Spectrum Award™
winners, designers were given the opportunity to pair
their perfect gemstones with platinum to create an
entry for the Platinum Honors™, sponsored by Platinum
Guild International. The Women’s Jewelry Association
likewise celebrated the designs and imaginations of
women with the WJA Diva Awards. And the Knot
sponsored the Bridal Category, ensuring that future
brides will see how color can transform their wedding
days beyond the ordinary.
The 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ winners can be
seen at the AGTA GemFair™ Tucson, February 3 – 8,
2015. See imagination brought to life in this spectacular
display of artistry.You’re also invited to take a sneak peek
By Kami S. Swinney
here. Prepare to be inspired!
2 0 1 5 A G TA S P E C T R U M AWA R D S ™
Best of Show
13
Best of Show
Leon Mege, Leon Mege, Inc.
Platinum ring featuring a
4.71 ct. Paraiba Tourmaline
accented with French-cut
Diamonds (1.31 ctw.).
c e le b rat i ng color. . .
The 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards ™ and
AGTA Cutting Edge Awards™ are a showcase
of individual creativity featuring new and
seasoned talent with an exciting mix
of innovation and tradition.
These winners – and all our
participants – help promote the beauty and
appeal of colored gemstones and cultured pearls.
We are proud to present this year’s winning
entries – and extend our most sincere
congratulations!
Best Use of Pearls
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
18K rose gold necklace featuring
white cultured Pearls accented
with pink Diamonds.
16
Spectrum Photos by John Parrish Photography
Best Use of Color
Paula Crevoshay, Crevoshay
18K yellow gold “The
Venus Bracelet” featuring
freshwater baroque cultured
Pearls (91.43 ctw.) accented
with pink and green
Tourmalines (29.32 ctw.).
Best Use of
Platinum and Color
Editor’s Choice
Gregore Morin
Gregore Joailliers
18K white gold
“Sometime This
Spring” earrings
featuring Mexican
fire Opals (68.88 ctw.)
accented with round
Diamonds (2.19 ctw.).
Deirdre Featherstone,
Featherstone Design
Platinum “Anemone”
earrings featuring
Tanzanites (5.37 ctw.)
accented with blue
Zircons (2.88 ctw.),
purple Sapphires
(3.72 ctw.),tsavorite
Garnets (1.67 ctw.),
indigo Tourmalines (.40 ctw.)
Paraiba Tourmalines (.26 ctw.)
and Diamonds (.16 ctw.).
Fashion Forward
Ion Ionescu, Ionescu Design, Inc.
18K yellow gold ring
featuring a 36 ct.
turquoise accented with
a 9.2mm Tahitian silver
cultured Pearl, Paraiba
Tourmalines (.32 ctw.)
and Diamonds (.43 ctw.).
17
B R I DA L
sponsored by the knot
1st Place
Deirdre Featherstone, Featherstone Design
Platinum “Anemone” earrings
featuring Tanzanites (5.37 ctw.)
accented with blue Zircons (2.88 ctw.),
purple Sapphires (3.72 ctw.), tsavorite
Garnets (1.67 ctw.), indigo Tourmalines
(.40 ctw.) Paraiba Tourmalines
(.26 ctw.) and Diamonds (.16 ctw.).
2nd Place and
Manufacturing Honors
Laurence Bruyninckx,
Laurence Bruyninckx
18K rose and white gold ring featuring
a .80 ct. golden Beryl accented with
orange Citrines, orange Sapphires and
Diamonds.
18
3rd Place and
Platinum Honors
Michael Endlich, Pave Fine Jewelry
Platinum earrings featuring Diamond
slices (7.07 ctw.) accented with
Diamonds (.67 ctw.).
Gem Diva Award
Suzanne Kalandjian,
Suzanne Kalan
18K white gold necklace featuring
a 30mm white Topaz accented with
white Diamonds (3.70 ctw.).
Platinum Innovation
Honorable Mention
Susan Drake, Spectrum Art & Jewelry
Platinum “Tilt-A-Whirl” ring
featuring a 2.06 ct. Tanzanite accented
with Diamonds (1.63 ctw.).
Bella Campbell, Campbellian
Platinum earrings featuring
Aquamarines (5.61 ctw.) and grossular
Garnets (3.51 ctw.) accented with
Diamonds (.56 ctw.).
reach couples as they
search for their dream ring
Proud Sponsor
of
The AGTA Spec
trum
Awards™ & Th
e Knot
Bridal Award™
DID YOU KNOW? 3 out of 5 brides research rings before the proposal,
TREVOR DIXON
and grooms spend an average of 3.4 months shopping for the ring
Contact us! Rachel Jackson | [email protected] | (404) 597-3955
SOURCE: THE KNOT 2013 ENGAGEMENT AND JEWELRY STUDY
BUSINESS
DAY W E A R
20
1st Place
3rd Place
Jennifer Rabe Morin, Silverhorn Jewelers
18K rose gold ring featuring carved
Turquoise (29.0 ctw.) accented with
Amethyst cabochons (14.0 ctw.).
Manufacturing Honors
London Heath, London Jewelry
18K yellow gold and copper
“In The Swim” earrings featuring
Paraiba Tourmalines (7.11 ctw.)
accented with pink Tourmalines
(2.23 ctw.) and Diamonds (.80 ctw.).
Ryan Roberts, Ryan Roberts, Ltd.
18K yellow gold ring featuring a 11.25
ct. Chrysocolla accented with tsavorite
Garnets (.56 ctw.) and Diamonds
(.62 ctw.).
2nd Place and
Gem Diva Award
Platinum Honors
Elizabeth Garvin, Elizabeth Garvin Fine
18K gold and sterling silver “Jewel”
ring featuring a 24.6 ct. green Quartz
accented with Diamonds (.23 ctw.).
Best Use of Pearls
Phillip Dismuke, Jewelsmith
Platinum “Blooming” ring featuring a
21.40 ct. Opal accented with spessartite
Garnets (1.35 ctw.) and Diamonds.
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
18K rose gold necklace featuring white
cultured Pearls accented with pink
Diamonds.
CLASSICAL
1st Place & Best of Show
Platinum Honors
Leon Mege, Leon Mege, Inc.
Platinum ring featuring a 4.71 ct.
Paraiba Tourmaline accented with
French-cut Diamonds (1.31 ctw.).
Rex McClure, Sohn & McClure Jewelers
Platinum ring featuring a 4.16 ct.
emerald accented with white Diamond
baguettes (1.20 ctw.) and yellow
Diamonds (.21 ctw.).
2nd Place
Heena Chheda, Real Gems, Inc.
18K white gold “Ophion’s Treasure”
ring featuring Emeralds ( 6.74 ctw.)
accented with Diamonds (2.19 ctw.).
Platinum Innovation
Mimi Favre, Mimi Favre Studio
Platinum “Etude d’Vert” earrings
featuring tapered drops of shades of
green Tourmalines (15.50 ctw.).
Gem Diva Award
Caroline Chartuni, Caroline C
18K white gold “Astra” ring featuring
a 24.16 ct. star Sapphire accented with
Diamonds (8.08 ctw.).
3rd Place
Evelyn Huang, China Art
& Fine Jewelry, Inc.
18K yellow and white gold “Midnight
Kiss” ring featuring a 5.76 ct. unheated
blue Sapphire accented with white
and yellow Diamonds (1.18 ctw.),
blue Sapphires (.91 ctw.) and tsavorite
Garnets (.79 ctw.).
22
Manufacturing Honors
Deirdre Featherstone, Featherstone Design
Platinum ring featuring a 5.81 ct. green
Sapphire accented with Diamonds
(3.87 ctw.).
EVENING
WEAR
Platinum Honors
Cara Becker Lichtenstein, My Blue Heaven
Platinum bracelet featuring multicolored
Tourmalines (7.26 ctw.) accented with
Diamonds (1.29 ctw.).
1st Place & Gem Diva Award
3rd Place
Maria Canale, Suna Bros. Inc.
Platinum and 20K pink gold bracelet
featuring multicolored natural spinels
(44.31 ctw.) accented with white
Diamonds (6.80 ctw.) and pink
Diamonds (1.00 ctw.).
Gil, Gil Int’l.
Platinum ring featuring a 6.50 ct.
Alexandrite accented with Diamonds.
Best Use of Color
Paula Crevoshay, Crevoshay
18K yellow gold “The Venus Bracelet”
featuring freshwater baroque cultured
Pearls (91.43 ctw.) accented with pink
and green Tourmalines (29.32 ctw.).
Manufacturing Honors
Linda Quinn, Linda Quinn Designs
14K white gold ring featuring a 6.11 ct.
pink Tourmaline accented with
Diamonds (1.24 ctw.)
2nd Place
Erica Courtney, Erica Courtney, Inc.
18K yellow gold “Milky Way” earrings
featuring Opal drops (46.06 ctw.)
accented with Diamonds (1.98 ctw.)
and Paraiba Tourmalines (2.03 ctw.).
24
Honorable Mention
Wendy Brandes,Wendy Brandes Jewelry
18K pink gold “Pink Elephant & Tipsy
Writer Maneater” ring featuring a pink
Sapphire elephant (2.0 ctw.) accented
with a Ruby and brown and white
Diamonds (2.23 ctw.).
MEN’S WEAR
2nd Place
Mark Schneider,
Somewhere in the Rainbow
Platinum ring featuring a 16.73 ct.
tourmaline accented with yellow
Diamonds (.67 ctw.) and tsavorite
Garnets (1.02 ctw.).
Platinum Honors
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
Platinum “His and His” rings featuring
brown natural Diamonds (5.68 ctw.).
1st Place
3rd Place
Micheal Kanners, Michael Kanners
18K blackened gold cufflinks featuring
Tanzanites (20.06 ctw.) accented with
tsavorite Garnet (6.5 ctw.).
Dawn Muscio,
D. Muscio Fine Jewelry Studio
18K red gold and stainless steel
“Pink2” cufflinks featuring pillow cut
Morganites (8.74 ctw.) accented with
Rubies (.87 ctw.) and Diamonds
(.60 ctw.).
Honorable Mention
William Travis,William Travis Jewelry
18K yellow gold and sterling silver ring
featuring a 13.17 ct. Citrine.
25
cutting edge awards
CLASSIC CUT
GEMSTONES
1st Place
3rd Place
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
20.24 ct. emerald-cut unheated yellow Sapphire.
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
5.00 ct. oval pink Sapphire.
2nd Place
Honorable Mention
Joseph Ambalu, Amba Gem Corp.
19.06 ct. brilliant, step-cut unheated blue Sapphire.
Alan Hackman, Intercolor
38.06 ct. blue Sapphire.
cutting edge awards
A L L OT H E R
FAC E T E D
G E M S TO N E S
26
1st Place
3rd Place
Hemant Phophaliya, AG Color, Inc.
43.96 ct. oval cabochon Tanzanite.
Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
28.21 ct. Imperial Topaz.
2nd Place
Honorable Mention
Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
12.99 ct. oval mint grossular Garnet.
Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
115.48 ct. emerald-cut Heliodor.
cutting edge awards
ph e nom e nal
GEMSTONES
1st Place
Robert Shapiro, Robert Shapiro
Natural split pair of boulder Opals (60.50 ctw.).
cutting edge awards
PA I R S &
SUITES
1st Place
Dalan Hargrave, Geogem-USA
Rhodolite Garnet suite
(138.49 ctw.).
28
3rd Place
Hemant Phophaliya, AG Color, Inc.
Fancy pear-shaped Tanzanites.
2nd Place
Honorable Mention
Mikola Kukharuk, Nomad’s
Pair of Imperial Topaz (70.14 ctw.).
Allen Kleiman, A. Kleiman & Co.
Suite of pear-shaped unheated
yellow Sapphires (57.73 ctw.).
cutting edge awards
i nnovat ive
fac e t i n g
2nd Place
2nd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.
67.92 ct. swirling “Nebula” Ametrine.
1st Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.
63.19 ct. fancy round curprian Tourmaline.
3rd Place
John Dyer, John Dyer & Co.
19.43 ct. “Royal Velvet” Tanzanite.
cutting edge awards
carv i n g
2nd Place
Bernie Benavidez, Master Jewelers
“The Eye of Genesis” Opal carving (260 ctw.).
1st Place
Naomi Sarna, Naomi Sarna Designs
“Rose de France” Amethyst carving (1015 ctw.).
3rd Place
Darryl Alexander, Nirinjan
102 ct. specialy-cut Sunstone.
30
cutting edge awards
objects of
art
1st Place
Robyn Dufty, DuftyWeis Opals, Inc.
Black Chalcedony perfume bottle with a carved Mexican fire
Opal flower stopper (42.30 ctw.) accented with
18K yellow gold.
3rd Place
Alishan Halebian, Alishan
18K yellow gold and oxidized sterling silver letter opener /
dagger featuring fossil walrus Ivory.
Honorable Mention
2nd Place
Darryl Alexander, Somewhere in the Rainbow
GangiGreetingsBannerAD2015.pdf
1
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8:41 AM
18K yellow gold and sterling
silver
Orders” featuring
black Jade accented with crystal Opal and mammoth Ivory
with yellow Sapphires, Rubies, black and white Diamonds.
Adam Ramseyer, Ramstar Designs
Sterling silver and 14K gold spacecraft pendant with docking
station featuring a 30 ct. fantasy-cut Ametrine accented with
Tourmalines, Emeralds, Alexandrites, Lazulites, tsavorite
Garnets, Amethysts, Diamonds and Sapphires.
Bill Gangi
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Visit us at Booth #122
31
F
or actress/producer Ming-Na Wen, new experiences
are energizing. “One of the most important things in life is learning and passing on your wisdom,” says the
Macau-born beauty, who’s surely in sync with the origin of
her name, explaining that, “In Chinese, Ming means enlightenment.” In her starring role as Agent Melinda May on ABC’s
action/adventure series, Marvel’s Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D., the
accomplished TV/film/theater veteran enlightens viewers on
what she describes as “the fantastical experience of the whole
comic book superhero/supernatural phenomena.” And in one
of Wen’s newest roles, celebrity emissary for the 2015 AGTA
Spectrum AwardsTM Collection, she shines a spotlight on fine
gemstone jewelry. Now in its 31st year and sponsored by the
American Gem Trade Association (AGTA), the annual Spectrum competition is North America’s premier natural colored
gemstone and cultured pearl fine jewelry design contest.
“I love gemstones—they have an energy,” Wen says, noting that she’s particularly impressed with the design diversity
Oh, and jade—I love jade.” Wen’s fondness for jade was likely
influenced by her mother. “She’s always loved jewelry and
talked with me about buying fine quality. While I was growing up, my mother wore a white gold chain with a beautiful
carved pure green jade pendant, which my father had given
her. She wore it regularly. “
Today, in her own daily life, the jewelry that Wen wears
every day is a stack of five or six colored stone/natural wood
bead bracelets. “They’re stretchy and easily come off and on,
so they’re great for when I’m doing costume changes. I wear
different ones all the time. And it’s jewelry that allows me
to connect with my fans.” How so? “They see me on Instagram all the time with armfuls of bracelets, so many send me
bracelets they think I’ll like. When I put them on, I feel their
positive energy. The bracelets are all different, too–it’s amazing
how many colored gemstones there are. Anyhow, I’m so used
to layering a bunch of bracelets on every day that I feel naked
without them!”
The S.H.I.E.L.D. Agent,
Ming-Na Wen
Who’s Also a Jewelry Ambassador
of Spectrum’s collection. “Just as with clothing, the details in
jewelry make a difference.” Any personal favorites? “At the
photo shoot, I wore a platinum ring with a light blue-green
Paraiba tourmaline. The gem’s color has so much luminosity
that it almost talks to you, saying ‘look at me’!”As it turns out,
the actress has a great eye for fine jewelry–that ring by
platinum artist, Leon Megé of Leon Megé Inc., New York
City, was awarded “Best of Show,” the top honor in 2015’s
Spectrum competition. Based around a 4.71-carat Paraiba
tourmaline, the ring, accented with French-cut diamonds
(1.31 ctw.), additionally won First Place in the contest’s
Classical category. Also intriguing to Wen are opal earrings,
called “Milky Way,” created by Los Angeles designer, Erica
Courtney. Featuring opal drops (46.06 ctw.); the 18K yellow
gold pair has Paraiba tourmaline (2.03 ctw.) and diamonds
(1.98 ctw.) as well. The earrings won Second Place in
Spectrum’s Evening Wear category. “The opals are really,
really beautiful. When I was young, opal was one of my favorite gems. And now it’s a favorite of my teenage daughter. She
also likes amber-golden topaz.”
“I was born in November, so that’s my birthstone, but I
really prefer blue topaz—and, pretty much, all the deep royal
blue gems, too. I also like emeralds, and pearls, and opals still.
32
She likes, too, that they add color to the neutrality of
her casual wardrobe that’s mainly grays, black, and white.
“However, I do love sun dresses–in all lengths–and I wear
them in an array of bright colors, like orange and turquoise.
I’m ‘sundress girl’—I show up on set at 5 a.m. in them!”
For her off-screen evening wardrobe, Wen’s choices often
tend more toward the jewel tones. “I have no rules. I don’t
wear any one designer. And I choose shades that are most
flattering for my olive skin, like lots of orange-red, eggplant-purple colors, emerald greens, and royal blues.” Her
red-carpet gemstone jewelry is usually in white gold and
platinum, “But in the last year or two, I’ve also been buying
a lot of rose gold.” Emphasizing the importance of being
open to variety in jewelry, she says, “I wear everything–from
big-big to petite pieces. I guess my personal jewelry style
is fun and modern. It’s probably why I’m so drawn to this
Spectrum collection.”
Marvel’s Agents of S.H.I.E.L.D. returns, following its
winter hiatus, on Tuesday, March 3. And later this year,
you can see Wen in the Kevin Bacon horror-thriller,
“6 Miranda Drive,” and you can hear her in the animated
film short, “Parallel Man.” By Lorraine DePasque
Earrings: Priyanka Murthy,
ARYA ESHA - 18K yellow
gold “Shooting Star” earrings
featuring checkerboard-cut,
pear-shaped Amethyst briolettes
(39.60 ctw.) accented with
Diamonds (2.15 ctw.). Ring:
Wendy Brandes,Wendy Brandes
Jewelry - 18K pink gold “Pink
Elephant & Tipsy Writer
Maneater” ring featuring a pink
Sapphire elephant (2.0 ctw.)
accented with a Ruby and brown
and white Diamonds (2.23
ctw.). Bracelet: Paula Crevoshay,
Crevoshay - 18K yellow gold
“The Venus Bracelet” featuring
freshwater baroque cultured
Pearls (91.43 ctw.) accented
with pink and green Tourmalines
(29.32 ctw.). Dress: Roland
Nivelais - orange coated gown.
thoughts from an anonymous number
on the table...with a dream
t
his year I was proud to serve as agta Spectrum committee chair. As with any endeavor, we stand on the shoulders of our
predecessors, and with regard to this event, we’re
also indebted to the efforts and professionalism of
AGTA’s team in Dallas. Thank you to all.
I come to this responsibility from a unique
perspective. For twelve years I’ve been an entrant in
the competition, hence the article title, “thoughts
from an anonymous numbers on the table.” For
nine of those twelve years, I entered both my gems and jewelry
designs. With each entry, I submitted not only gemstones and
gemstone jewelry, but also my passion, experience and love. When
I expressed to the judges that this was true for every entry to be
reviewed, one judge replied, “So Jeff, no pressure?” To be sure,
entering and judging the world’s leading colored gemstone and
cultured pearl competition is a very serious job, and it is taken
very seriously by all.
For years I wondered, how do they actually do it? What’s
the criteria for judging? This year, the committee reviewed and
refined the process, and for the first time the AGTA published
the judging procedures for the purpose of creating a greater sense
of clarity and transparency. From the vantage point of an entrant,
this information is very helpful.
The competition itself is amazing! The team from Dallas treats
each submission with the same love as the designer or cutter. As it
turns out, the procedure is much the same as an in-store show…
repeatedly, and so much more! Additionally, team AGTA makes
each judge feel comfortable, special and appreciated for her/his
efforts. Special thanks to the judges for their skillful assessments!
The 2014 distinguished judging panel included Joseph
Mardkha of Color Masters; Jerrold Green of R.C. Miller; Tim
McClelland of McTiegue & McClelland; Myriam Gumuchian
of Gumuchian Fils; Larry Pelzel of Neiman Marcus, and Dr.
Jeffrey Post, Curator of the National Gem Collection at the
Smithsonian Institution. These judges brought over two hundred
and ten years of combined multi-faceted, high-profile experience
to the Spectrum AwardsTM.Yet, it was quite obvious that each
judge learned and grew from the experience.
Watching the judges examine each entry was like sitting in
a university library. Silence, focus and a palpable air of intensity
were evident. When the final tables were established, the judges’
decisions reflected knowledge, perspective and respect…respect
for each entry, for the process and for each other. As Larry Pelzel
stated, “It was a true pleasure to be part of such a highly revered
group of industry leaders. I’m very confident the winning
pieces were the best options presented.”
Why enter the AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge
Competitions?
The AGTA Spectrum AwardsTM is universally recognized
as the industry’s largest and most prestigious colored gemstone
and cultured pearl competition. After thirty two years it’s the
standard by which all other trade competitions are measured.
34
Spectrum is a do-not-miss event for editors from
every trade magazine and blog, including the
editors of such fine and well-respected consumer magazines as Forbes,W Magazine,The Knot and
many others. These editors mark their calendars,
jockey to be first to view the glorious creations
(winners and non-winners alike), then publish the
awe-inspiring favorites in their respective publications. The exposure is unmatched!
I have had the good fortune to have my
submissions awarded by both AGTA Spectrum AwardsTM &
AGTA Cutting Edge AwardsTM. Being an award winner has been
both personally and professionally enriching. People whom I have
never met have surprised me by approaching me at my booth
at AGTA GemFair TucsonTM (and Las Vegas) stating, “So, you’re
the award winner! Congratulations! Let’s see what you do!” And
what’s better, they also buy! I’ve noted that my customers place
value on award-winning gemstones and gemstone jewelry, and
readily purchase products from award-winning jewelers and
designers. When they make these signature purchases, they
in-turn feel like winners. And needless to say, my wife,
children and extended family are giddy with pride at each award.
What are my chances at being an award winner?
You may have noted that some entrants are repeat winners
and ask yourself, why bother? Why do some win so often? First,
let me say, the process is highly competitive and it is very difficult
to win. Having recently been an insider, after entering for years,
I now understand why it’s even harder to win than I previously
imagined. Second, most repeat winners have made Spectrum part
of their marketing plan, which guides their gemstone acquisition,
design and fabrication. While every submission is special, some
entrants have made strategic submissions with Spectrum in mind.
Here are some thoughts I’ve gleaned that may aid your future
competition submissions:
1) Make multiple entries. It’s simple, the more items you enter the
greater your chances will be at standing out;
2) Place your focus on creating excellence and beauty when crafting
your design, fabrication and cutting. Bigger is not always better and
trying to design for victory is a serious challenge. Beauty and
excellence is the best place to start!
After experiencing the competition as Spectrum Committee
chair, my comments from the GIA Insider in 2009 are even more
true today: “The AGTA Spectrum AwardsTM and AGTA Cutting
Edge AwardsTM are the only contests I enter. Both represent the
purest contests in the industry. The judges represent all corners of
the industry and they blindly vote on what they think is best.
The contest isn’t tied to advertising or a magazine - it’s based on
excellence in gemstones, manufacturing and design. It’s one of
the most rewarding things I’ve participated in throughout my
career.” Enjoy viewing the 2015 Spectrum AwardTM winners in
this issue! Join the competition and experience the thrill.
By Jeffrey Bilgore
SPECTRUM AWARDS WINNING RING
STONES
&
JEWLERY
&
FINE COLOr GEMSTONES
AGTA - TUSCON BOOTH: 602
JCK SHOW-LAS VEGAS BOOTH: B2335
15 WEST 47TH STREET SUITE 809 NY, NY 10036
TEL: 212-921-2121 | 1800-gilintl | fax: 212-921-9008
EMAIL: [email protected]
WEBSITE: WWW.GILINTL.COM
35
The 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards™ Judges
Examination. Analysis. Consultation. Decision. Repeat. Welcome to the world of the AGTA Spectrum Awards™.
36
embers of the gemstone industry’s most astute
community ascended on NYC on a brisk autumn day
in 2014 to offer their years of experience and honed acumen
to the world’s premier gemstone and gemstone jewelry competition. Anticipation was peaked at the thought of reviewing close
to 500 artful submissions from across North America,
representing both seasoned artisans and brilliant newcomer
entrants. Reflecting the
event’s rich history,
and the gravity of the
moment, dialogue was
lively and wits were
matched as the competition unfolded.
The 2015 competition was unique in
several respects; among
them, the judging process
was automated for the
first time, and iPads were
prevalent. Intertwined
with the state-of-the-art
M
tabulating system however, was a significant degree of
personal interface. After all, experts at this elite level are not
only colleagues but friends. The esteemed judging panel
for the signature 2015 event was as follows: Jerrold Green,
R.C. Miller, Inc.; Myriam Gumuchian, Vice President and
Director of Sales, Gumuchian; Joseph Mardkha, Founder,
ColorMasters Precious Jewelry; Tim McClelland, McTeigue
& McClelland; Larry
Pelzel, Vice President
and Divisional
Merchandise Manager-Precious Jewels,
Neiman Marcus; and
Dr. Jeffrey Post, Curator, U.S. National Gem
and Mineral Collection,
Smithsonian Institution.
You’re invited here
to learn more about the
who’s who list of judging
specialists at the AGTA
Spectrum Awards™ 2015.
Jerrold Green
Lapidarist, Reginald C. Miller
Jerrold Green’s passion for his chosen field grew out of
a lifelong love of art and sculpture. From a degree in
studio art from Harper College, majoring in sculpture, to
studying painting with the renowned Norman Raeben,
Green’s determination to make it as an artisan eventually led him to the Kulicke Stark Institute to study classic jewelry-making techniques and gem engraving. His
passion then led him to apprentice for the legendary gem
importer, Reginald C. Miller, who taught him the art
of stone-cutting and polishing. His education continued
there under the tutelage of a Japanese master lapidary with
40 years of experience. He learned to see any “problems”
that might be inherent to cutting a particular stone, and
then he learned how to solve them, to enhance the stone’s
unique beauty. “It has to delight you to create it…and you
have to get real pleasure out of every step,” says Green.
Upon his mentor’s retirement in 1989, Green eventually took the reins of R.C. Miller, Inc. What Green learned
from his mentor remain the hallmarks of his business
today, “When someone submits material to you, regardless
of its quality, treat it with respect and them with respect…
and above all: your word is everything.” While the tools of
his trade have expanded to include high-end Apple computers, Green still spends hours of each day hunched over
his lapidary table, painstakingly carving precious stones
so that every facet will catch the light. Today, gemologists,
importers and collectors from all over the world come to
him bearing treasures and seeking his advice.
Myriam Gumuchian
Vice President & Director of Sales, Gumuchian
Myriam Gumuchian-Schreiber, a native of Belgium with
Armenian lineage, received her Bachelor’s degree from
Tufts University and now serves as the Vice President and
Director of Sales at Gumuchian. Alongside her, mother
Anita, and her sister, Patricia, they work together to carry
on a family legacy that originated over 100 years ago in
Istanbul with the sales of exceptional colored stones
and fancy diamond imports. In 1979, the Gumuchian
brand was created by Anita and her daughters, Myriam
and Patricia.
Inspired by their European lineage, the trio saw the
need to create a refined collection in order to better serve
the American market. From that vision, Gumuchian’s
“Designed by Women for Women” mantra was born,
setting out to capture the confidence and beauty of all
women. Stating that “every collection is designed to
enhance a women’s natural beauty and to satisfy the
desires and tastes of the most discerning customers.”
With their collaboration and discerning eye, they choose
the very finest quality gem stones and precious metals to
create versatile and timeless jewelry.
In 2008, Myriam was elected into the elite 24 Karat
Club and has received the” Dedication and Leadership
Award” from New York Jeweler’s Group. This dedication
to the luxury jewelry industry resulted in her becoming
the first woman appointed chair of the Jewelry Information Center, where she held the position for two years.
The commitment to excellence has not gone unnoticed,
rewarding Gumuchian with several design awards, most
recently the “Award for Best International Emerging
Brand” of the year from the Armenian Jewelry Association.
Joseph Mardkha
Manufacturer, ColorMasters Precious Jewelry
In 1981, Joseph Mardkha founded ColorMasters Gem
Corp. and traveled the world seeking to build relationships with stone dealers and cutters overseas. Quickly,
he established ColorMasters as an essential source for
fine precious gems and the company became a valuable
asset to some of the world’s best designers, retailers, and
jewelry manufacturers. In the early 90s, Joe decided to
expand his stone business and incorporate jewelry manufacturing into the company. This endeavor proved to be
very successful, and transformed his business into what is
now ColorMasters Precious Jewelry, which supports over
100 employees in New York City. Today, ColorMasters
specializes in each and every aspect of high-end jewelry
design, product development, and manufacturing while
maintaining social responsibility.
Tim McClelland
Master Jeweler and Designer, McTiegue & McClelland
Tim McClelland grew up in a family of artists and at an
early age was struck by the versatility and permanence of
metal as a vehicle for his ideas. After studying and apprenticing under some of the preeminent master jewelers
and contemporary metalsmiths, Tim became a freelance
designer and maker in New York City where he continued to develop his skills and refine his personal style.
In 1984, McClelland met Walter McTiegue in an elevator
near New York’s diamond district and immediately
became friends. Although they remained independent,
their friendship led to collaboration in jewelry making;
Walter finding the diamonds and precious stones, Tim
designing and making the jewelry. In 1998, they formally
established McTeigue & McClelland, a decision that
cemented a creative partnership that to this day is
dynamic, developing and ever-changing.
All of McTeigue & McClelland’s jewelry is made
under the direction of Tim McClelland the old fashioned
way - one piece at a time. In 2011, McTeigue &
McClelland made the decision to sell exclusively to their
own clientele. McTeigue & McClelland started to get
noticed by the international fashion press. Pieces from
their collections became de-rigeur for magazines
surveying the best in jewelry, including Town & Country,
Robb Report,W Magazine, Elle, Martha Stewart,The
New York Times and more.
McTeigue & McClelland, in Tim and Walter’s words
has one mission - “To make the most beautiful jewelry
imaginable.”
Larry Pelzel
Retailer, Neiman Marcus
Larry Pelzel has worked in the high-end luxury jewelry
industry for over 34 years. Armed with a Marketing Degree from the University of North Texas, Pelzel understudied with some of the most highly regarded jewelers
and designers in the United States and throughout the
world, learning first-hand about goldsmithing, design,
appraising, buying, selling and merchandising. Pelzel took
that experience to Neiman Marcus in 1980, and has since
worked his way up from Sales Associate, Precious Jewels,
to his current position of Vice President and Divisional
Merchandise Manager, Precious Jewels. From Neiman
Marcus’ flagship store in Dallas, he oversees all aspects
of the Precious Jewels Division from buying to the
renowned in-house Design Studio to promotions and advertising. In 2012, Pelzel was inducted into The Retailer
Jewelers’ “Hall of Fame” by National Jeweler.
Dr. Jeffrey E. Post,
Curator, U.S. National Gem & Mineral Collection,
Smithsonian Institution
Dr. Jeffrey Edward Post, a native of Wisconsin, received
his Bachelor of Science degrees in geology and chemistry
from the University of Wisconsin - Platteville, and his
Ph.D. in chemistry, with a specialty in geochemistry, from
Arizona State University. Prior to joining the Department of Mineral Sciences at the Smithsonian Institution
in 1984, he was a Postdoctoral Research Fellow for three
years in the Department of Geological Sciences at Harvard University. From 1989 to 1994, he was Chairman of
the Department of Mineral Sciences, and since 1991 has
served as Curator of the U.S. National Gem and Mineral
Collection. Dr. Post served as the lead Curator for the
Janet Annenberg Hooker Hall of Geology, Gems and
Minerals that opened in 1997. His areas of research interest include mineralogy, gemology, geochemistry, crystallography, and electron microscopy. He has published
more than 75 scientific articles in these fields.
37
2015
COLOR
FORECAST
A toast to Marsala! With the New Year well under
way, jewelry joins fashion, cosmetics, home décor, and
other industries, in celebrating the Pantone Color Institute’s “2015 Color of the Year.” Here, Leatrice Eiseman,
Pantone’s Executive Director, speaks with
AGTA, in an exclusive interview, talking
about the international color authority’s
hot, delicious shade—“a red wine with
a brown undertone”—and, notably, its
unique opportunities for jewelry.
MARSALA ‘N THE METALLICS
“Marsala is very complex—it’s a color
that shows its
undertones, in
much the same
way that gemstones do,” Eiseman says. “You
see different
shades coming
through, often
depending on
what light
you view it in.
For me, that’s
one reason I,
personally, find
colored gems to
be so incredibly
fascinating.”
Fascinating,
too, is Eiseman
citing Marsala
as one of the
most perfect
Colors of the
Year in awhile
for jewelry
because of the
Pamela Huizenga Jewelry 18K gold earrings
featuring rubellites (8.87 ctw.) accented with rose cut hue’s underlying
diamonds and full cut diamonds.
metallics. “It’s
38
a win-win with jewelry, obviously, as gems are set in
metals. Any in particular? “Nothing too cool,” she advises, mentioning the warm coppery color of rose gold
as a great choice.Yellow gold, of course, too, as it’s also
warm. If you do the white metals–platinum, white gold,
sterling silver, or the alternative alloys, like palladium or
steel, for example, “choose something more pewterized
or burnished.” In fine jewelry, that would be white metals
that are understated, like matte or satin-surfaced platinum,
rhodium-plated white
gold, or oxidized sterling
silver. “And any blackened precious metals are
sensational with Marsala
gems! Very elegant.”
IN THE RED ZONE
While metal surfaces
should be subtle, not
so for this year’s Marsala gems, she explains.
Although Marsala is a
sophisticated shade—
as opposed to a bright,
Erica Courtney 18K yellow
more bawdy, in-your-face gold “Cathedral” ring,
red—“popping the rusty- spotlighting a 17.38 ct.
spessartite garnet, surrounded
red fashions with highby red sapphires (.76 ctw.)
color red gems is a great
and diamonds (.78 ctw.).
way to go. Just as a Marsala
wine can be flavoring in
cooking, think of Marsala-colored gemstone jewels as
flavoring for what you wear!” On-trend gems (many
already seen in new jewelry collections) include spessartite
garnet, ruby, red spinel, pink tourmaline, and rubellite.
Also, don’t think of these stones as day or night.
“They’re on-point for all occasions this year,” notes
Eiseman. “While you’ll definitely see a lot of Marsala
shades in casual wear, due to the color’s rooted, earthy
feeling, there will be a great deal of after-five fashion,
too.” Eiseman herself has already bought a Marsala sweater
that she spotted in Paris. “It’s a flattering color for most
complexions.”
Omi Privé 18K rose gold
earrings, handcrafted with
22.26 ct.of pear-shaped
pink tourmalines, accented
with brilliant diamond
rounds (.62 ctw.).
Zaffiro Satellite Series ring from the
“Chiara Collection” featuring ruby center
stone, bezel-set white diamonds, platinum
shank and granulation, and 22K yellow
gold and granulation.
Paula Crevoshay 18K gold “Love Messenger”
pendant featuring a 1.04 ct. Mexican fire opal
accented with sapphires, spinels, tourmalines
and amethysts.
Pamela Huizenga Jewelry,
18K yellow gold ring set
with a 36.02 ct. rubellite
and round and marquise
diamonds (1.16 ctw.).
Jane Taylor rings from the “Rosebud Collection”
both featuring pink spinel in 14K yellow gold
(top), in 14K blackened white gold (bottom).
39
2015
COLOR
FORECAST
¨
LET’S TALK YELLOW
“Since we made our Color of the Year announcement
in December, many people have been saying Marsala
has a 1970’s vibe. It does, but it’s not classic Seventies like
harvest gold or avocado green. And the color combinations we suggest with Marsala are not the ones you would
have seen back then.They’re new and now.”
Without a doubt, yellow gems with Marsala shaded
ones are uber-modern. “It’s a shade that easily and
elegantly can be paired with warm yellows like amber
and topaz,” explains Eiseman.The other good news is that
there are many complements in this color family, running
the gamut from very affordable to the higher end. Some
fabulous “fresh yellows” include golden topaz, amber,
fancy yellow sapphire, and citrine.
. . . AND PURPLE, BLUE, AND TEAL
“Sometimes, of course, you want to create more depth
and drama,” Eiseman concedes, “not only in the clothes
you wear, but also in the jewelry you buy.” If that’s the
case, look for jewelry with a gem in the Marsala family
that’s among the cobalt blues, teals, and purples. They’ll
have impact. And they’ll have an in-fashion feel.”
So, a piece of jewelry that’s focused on a ruby or
rubellite, for example, would be striking with teal-like
Paraiba tourmalines or rich blue sapphires or lapislazuli accenting.
Above: Paula Crevoshay 18K gold “Maharani Devi” earrings featuring tourmaline
drops and diamonds.
40
“Any vivid, highly saturated gems in the blue, purple, or
teal-green palette will be beautiful for high-contrast to the
spectrum of Marsala-red gems.” Some smokin’ plumviolets this year are amethyst, fancy purple sapphire, s
ugilite, eggplant-shaded Tahitian pearls, and certain
alexandrite. A few of the best bright blues for 2015 are
sapphire, Tanzanite, lapis-lazuli, Ethiopian opal, zircon,
and paraiba tourmaline.
“When you layer clothes and accessories with these
strong hues, or when you buy a piece of jewelry that
combines rich reds with these shades, you’re usually someone who tends to be brave with fashion,” Eiseman says.
STAYING NEUTRAL
Nonetheless, if you’re not particularly adventurous with
your wardrobe, Eiseman makes a point of explaining that,
while Marsala itself isn’t a neutral, “I do think of this
color—or even eggplant and hunter green, for example—
as a staple. So whatever you get in this shade—whether
it’s a skirt or a scarf or a piece of jewelry—it’s like you’re
buying an investment piece because the color won’t
quickly be out of style next year.”
And if you’re someone who doesn’t ordinarily combine
a lot of colors? Then, for you, Eiseman suggests, “Go for
the color with your jewelry! And wear those brownish-red
gem designs with fashion in warm neutrals–not cools–
especially camels or sunny grays.” By Lorraine DePasque
Omi Privé three-stone ring in 18K rose gold,
with a 3.57 ct. cushion purple spinel center
stone, accented with red spinel (0.84 ctw.) and
brilliant diamond rounds (0.14 ctw.).
#diamondoodles
AGTA Gemfair Tucson Booth 907
Los Angeles - New York - Bangkok - Hong Kong
(877) 601-7306 [email protected]
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Congratulations to the 2015 AGTA Spectrum Awards “Platinum Honors” Winners.
Your exceptional designs beautifully demonstrate how well platinum, the world’s most precious naturally white metal,
complements brilliantly colored stones. Your achievements inspire us all.
To see these and other winning designs, visit preciousplatinum.com.
“PLATINUM HONORS” 2015 WINNERS
1. PLATINUM EVENING WEAR FIRST PLACE: MARIA CANALE, SUNA BROS., INC.
2. BEST USE OF PLATINUM, COLOR AND FIRST PLACE BRIDAL WEAR: DEIRDRE FEATHERSTONE, FEATHERSTONE DESIGN
3. PLATINUM HONORS BRIDAL WEAR: MICHAEL ENDLICH, PAVÉ FINE JEWERLY 4. HONORABLE MENTION BRIDAL WEAR: BELLA CAMPBELL, CAMPBELLIAN
5. PLATINUM HONORS MEN’S WEAR: NAOMI SARNA, NAOMI SARNA DESIGNS 6. ENTRY PLATINUM INNOVATION: MIMI FAVRE, MIMI FAVRE STUDIO
7. ENTRY PLATINUM INNOVATION: SUSAN DRAKE, SPECTRUM ART & JEWELRY 8. PLATINUM MEN’S WEAR SECOND PLACE: MARK SCHNEIDER
9. BEST OF SHOW AND FIRST PLACE CLASSICAL: LEON MEGÉ, LEON MEGE, INC. 10. PLATINUM HONORS EVENING WEAR:
CARA BECKER LICHTENSTEIN, MY BLUE HEAVEN 11. PLATINUM HONORS MANUFACTURING CLASSICAL: DEIRDRE FEATHERSTONE, FEATHERSTONE DESIGN
12. PLATINUM HONORS BUSINESS DAY WEAR: PHILLIP DISMUKE, JEWELSMITH 13. PLATINUM HONORS CLASSICAL: REX MCCLURE, SOHN & MCCLURE JEWELERS
m e m b e r
p r o f i l e
k at e y b r u n i n i – k . b r u n i n i
We asked featured designer Katey
Brunini to answer a few rapid-fire
questions to help her fans get to
know her. Here are her replies:
1. When did you know jewelry designing was meant for you?
1992 Cairo Museum, Egypt.
It all clicked.
2. What inspires you to keep
creating every season?
I can’t stop, it’s an illness.
3. Do you have any jewelry that you have to wear
every day?
No, I rotate according to mood.
4. What location gives you the most creative inspiration?
Away from people anywhere. Connecting to source.
Inner illumination.
5. Do you have someone in mind when you design
a new piece?
Goddesses.
6. What is your favorite gemstone to wear? Favorite
gemstone to work with?
Opal, pearl, ruby...
7. What was your first piece of jewelry you created?
The first piece of fine jewelry was 1992 “Solar Wind.”
8. What is the most important part of the creating
process of your jewelry?
Quiet.
9. What is the best business advice you have ever gotten?
Assuming” makes an a** out of you...and me.
Top to right: Twig “Chains of Love” ring in
18k yellow, white, or rose gold with an approximate 12 ct. bi-color tourmaline; Spirit Animal
domed butterfly ring in sterling silver and 18 ct.
rose and yellow gold, 124.29 ct. carved
tourmaline wings, 13.72 ct. abstract Jundah opal,
1.07 ct. peach sapphire, .04 ct. fancy yellow
diamonds. Please note: butterfly wings are spring
hinged, touch to flutter;Twig “chains of love” ring
in 18k yellow, white, or rose gold with 6.35 ct.
emerald and 6.29 ct. total weight rose zircons;
Organique ring in sterling silver with 18k yellow,
white, or rose gold nautiluses, 1.09 ct. total weight
diamonds, .93 ct. total weight rubies, and a 54.89
ct. rutilated quartz.
44
10. Who is your role model?
Jean D’Arc.
11. What is one thing people would be surprised to know about you?
I prefer animals to people...generally.
12. What is the best concert you’ve ever been to?
Sinead O’Connor in Rome circa 1996 or 1997…
voice of an angel.
Katey Brunini creates fine jewelry that embodies the power
and grace of nature. Whimsical and poetic, Katey’s signature
collections include: Twig,Vertebrae, DNA, Skipping Stones,
Spider Web, Objects Organique, Spirit Animals and Body
Armor. Her jewelry is made with poetry laced in its shapes.
Katey launched her jewelry design company, K. Brunini
Jewels, in 1998. Her creations pay homage to Nature’s spontaneous wit and organic aesthetic. Based in San Diego, Katey
is known for traveling the world to seek both artistic and ethereal inspiration when creating each of her collections made of
lasting and beautiful materials—precious metals of platinum,
gold and sterling silver. She mixes these with diamonds, pearls
and rare gems then incorporates unique elements of wood,
bone and antlers to create a raw and refined harmony.
Katey’s talents have long been recognized across the
industry. She has received the Women’s Jewelry Association
Award of Excellence in Design, the American Gem Trade
Association’s Editors’ Choice Spectrum Award™, the International Pearl Design competition, the MarCom Platinum
Award for website design, Art Basel, and many other honors.
In addition, Katey’s jewelry has been featured in the San
Diego Museum of Natural History, Carnegie Museum, the
Gemological Institute of America’s Permanent Collection
and the Headley-Whitney Museum (Smithsonian adjunct).
K. Brunini Jewels is a proud member of WJA, ICA, CJDG,
By Megan Whitmire
AGTA, JIC, JA, and AJDC.
Prism Focus on
Chrysoprase Chalcedony:
in the Marlborough
District of Queensland,
Australia
Figure 1: A view from the Candala Chrysoprase Mine of the surrounding area near Marlborough, Queensland, Australia, located 87
KM northwest of Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia.
C
hrysoprase is a form of green cryptocrystalline
quartz referred to as Chalcedony or Chalcedonic
Quartz. Chrysoprase Chalcedony is highly prized in the
Asian market and among gemologists worldwide. The
Candala Chrysoprase mine is located near Marlborough,
Queensland, Australia and is 87 KM northwest of
Rockhampton (figure 1). The earliest accounts reveal
that Marlborough Chrysoprase production began in
the 1960’s. Removal of the ore bodies from properties
adjoining the Candala Mine has resulted in near
depletion. By contrast, the Candala mine continues to
be virtually “untouched” with only small scale mining
activity. Were you to visit today you would find a nearly
reclaimed site in almost original condition. Mining
activity was very limited in 2014 due to extreme
drought conditions and wildfires in the region. Access
to the mine was limited, and at times closed, by
firefighting authorities.
Chrysoprase from the Marlborough District is found
in veins from two to eight inches thick, with unusually
high nickel content (2.35%) resulting in a color that is
deeper than most samples from other localities (Webster, 1983, p. 220). The bright yellow to green color
of Chrysoprase mined from the Marlborough area is
imparted by the presence of a colloidal nickel clay compound, possibly garnierite (Sinkankas, 1964, p. 437).
The mine locations in Marlborough, Queensland,
Australia are accessible only by 4-wheel drive vehicles
and are reached traveling approximately two hours from
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia. Access to the
46
mining areas is gated and controlled by permanent onsite security. Air travel is the suggested mode of transportation from Sydney to Rockhampton.
The primary commercial mining site for Chrysoprase
in the Marlborough region is the Gumigil Party
Limited lease, and is nearing depletion. The majority
of the Chrysoprase production from the Gumigil Party
Figure 2.Veins of Chrysoprase Chalcedony are readily seen on the host rock
outcroppings as you walk the Candala lease.
Limited lease is shipped to the People’s Republic of
China for domestic consumption and is commonly used
as a jade substitute. Candala Chrysoprase mining operation leases the adjoining property. While walking the
Candala lease, you can readily see the outcroppings with
bands of Chrysoprase Chalcedony noted by exceptional
qualities (figures 2 & 3). (continued page 46)
The Lightning
Ridge
Collection
by John Ford
Dare to be
different...
Have an exclusive
showing at your
store.
John Ford, Spectrum Award-Winning Designer and
importer of loose black opal is at AGTA Tuscon
ready to meet and discuss your trunk show.
(409) 771-7750
Visit LightningRidgeCollection.com/TrunkShow
for more information.
45
History
Dick and Jack Moesinger first discovered the Marlborough Chrysoprase deposits in the early 1900’s. After
sporadic early mining, some hand mining occurred
during the 1950’s, with the first mechanized mining
beginning at that same time. In the early sixties, claims
were consolidated with two Marlborough claims remaining, a large lease owned by William Stacey, Sr., and
Figure 3.This rough Chrysoprase material is representative of the
intensity of color and exceptional quality of the Chrysoprase Chalcedony
from this locality.
a smaller one which was later to become the Candala
Chrysoprase lease, owned by Bert Kayes.
William Stacey sold his large claim, the Gumigil
Chrysoprase Mine, to a Chinese mining concern, Po
Yuen, which then embarked on a major Chrysoprase
mining operation that remains open to this day.
Bert Kayes also sold his smaller lease and this property subsequently changed hands several times. Eventually Resource Mining Corporation (RMC) leased this
property for mining nickel, cobalt, and Chrysoprase.
RMC conducted an extensive drilling program covering 20% of the lease holdings and discovered ore bodies
of ~350 tons of Chrysoprase, with lesser amounts of
nickel and cobalt discovered. Despite this positive result,
RMC decided to concentrate on their considerable,
more lucrative ore leases in Western Australia.
The late Richard Osmond first heard of the RMC
Chrysoprase mine, known as Candala Pty Ltd, in
Tucson, in February of 2005. He visited Marlborough,
the location of the mine and also an Australian cattle
farming community, for the first time in May of 2005.
Based on their observations, and following a feasibility
study, Richard and Mary Lou Osmond had conversations with local mining personnel about nickel deposits
in the surrounding area. The principals, which included
an American investor, formed a syndicate which secured
an option from RMC, raised capital and purchased
Candala Pty Ltd. The syndicate secured the mining
lease interests in December of 2005 and began business
under the name of Candala Chrysoprase.
48
Mining Techniques
While other area mines utilize aggressive mining
techniques to yield higher volume, the current mining
at Candala is small scale, performed mostly by hand, and
with limited mechanized heavy equipment. The material
is handpicked, washed, and then sorted. This technique of
recovery, called “light mining” is slow and methodical. It
allows for very high yields of Chrysoprase material. Using
this mining approach, the miners
are able to glean finer quality material
that is often missed
in its smaller size
ranges when using
other high volume
mechanized methods (figure 4).
The Australia Chrysoprase
Chalcedony mine
Figure 4
locations in Marlborough District,
Queensland are
synonymous with
the most exceptional chalcedony ever
produced (figure 5).
The gemological
community is very
familiar with Chrysoprase Chalcedony,
Figure 5
yet very little has
been reported about
this important gem-producing location. A designer’s
dream, interest and appreciation for this gem material
continues to grow (figure 5).
figure 4 above: Examination of finished cabochon cut Chrysoprase confirms
the reason for interest by collectors in search of an alternative to the finest
Imperial” Jade.
figure 5 above: A designers dream, lush intensity of color compliments the
18K gold and diamond setting.
about the author: David Baker is a Graduate Gemologist - Gemological
Institute of America. David is the Membership and Education Manager for the
American Gem Trade Association. He is an internationally recognized
gemologist, invited speaker & published author in the field of Gemology.
acknowledgements: A sincere thank you to Mary Lou Osmond, Chief
Executive Officer for Candala Chrysoprase, with International Headquarters
located in Drummoyne, NSW, Australia. Mary Lou, a native of Connecticut,
met and married Australian Richard Osmond in 1986, and acquired the
Marlborough property lease in 2005. Her expertise has been invaluable and
makes this article possible.
Mr.William Stacey, Senior Site Executive & Site Manager, Marlborough
Nickel Pty Ltd. provided assistance with his expertise and knowledge of the
local Marlborough area.
OZCAN
JEWELERS INC.
Boston, MA (617) 338-6844
OZCANINC.COM
f i r m
p r o f i l e
john buechner
At the American Gem Trade Association GemFairs,
many individuals stand out. One such individual is John
Buechner, owner and founder of John Buechner, Inc. John’s
genial nature, smile, and positive outlook on life makes him
a person you simply want to spend time with. John’s love for
colored gemstones is evident to everyone who knows him.
John Buechner, of John Buechner, Inc., has been a Firm
Member of the American Gem Trade Association since 1993.
John is a gracious gentleman. He has formerly served as a
distinguished member of the AGTA Board of Directors.
Admired by many, John Buechner is a dedicated husband,
father, grandfather and businessman. He is likewise, a devout,
spiritual man.
Tell us about your family?
“I was born and raised in Chicago
with my two sisters and brother.
We were always playing games;
baseball in the summers and
football, basketball and hockey in
the winter months. Great fun!
I attended a Catholic grade
school, high school and college...
Loyola University where I majored
in Biology. I was destined to
become a dentist (which didn’t
strike me as being so fun but I didn’t
have the grades for medical school).
While attending Loyola, I
worked as a waiter to help pay
tuition. It was as a waiter that I
met my beautiful wife, Kathy.
Thirty-some years, later we have
two fantastic daughters, Jahnean
and Brittany. As time flies by, I now
have two super son-in-laws, and
three absolutely adorable granddaughters.You really can’t get much
better than that! I’m blessed.”
Did you have other early mentors?
“Bernie Hirsh was the gentleman who helped me learn the
sales side of the business. Bernie was in his 60’s and I was
in my 20’s when we met. We hit
the road calling on retail jewelry
“Through promotion,
stores throughout the U.S. He was
a kind soul with a great following.
education and disclosure
He introduced me to many of the
stores I still do business with today.
the AGTA has enabled me,
What a wonderful man!”
a small fry in the trade,
to use their tools to sell
with confidence
and integrity.”
John Buechner
Please share with us how you got your start in the
colored gemstone business.
“While in college in 1984, I took a summer job working for
my cousin, Jerry Haberkorn. He introduced me to colored
gemstones and the world of jewelry. After just a few weeks
I was hooked. My love for colored gemstones was immediate!
I left my “destiny in dentistry” behind, and never looked back.
I pursued my passion instead in the colored gemstone
business, traveling to places like Bangkok, Hong Kong and
Burma to acquire the special stones that make people happier
than a trip to the dentist!”
Tell us more about the person who introduced you to the
jewelry industry and your love for colored gemstones?
“What can I say about Jerry Haberkorn? Jerry was a true
Jeremiah Johnson of the gemstone industry. He did opal
mining in Australia, diamond mining in Africa, and ran a
premier colored gemstone wholesale operation out of
Chicago. I was lucky enough to have worked with him for
50
12 years before his life was cut short by a tragic automobile
accident in January of 1986.
Jerry had a fearless spirit and sometimes lived on the
edge but was adored by just about everyone who knew him.
He taught me a great deal and I still miss him dearly. Many
of my peers still remember Jerry and will sometimes share
a favorite story or two. It’s understandable that people still
remember him after these many years. He was a memorable
and affable person.”
What is your favorite gemstone?
“If I had to pick a favorite
gemstone it would have to be
Sapphire because of the variety
of colors it comes in. There is
nothing better than a gem Kashmir
Blue, or the sunset orangey-pink of
a beautiful Padparadscha, or a hot
bubblegum pink.”
Were you an early member of
AGTA?
“I have been a member of AGTA
since its inception through Haberkorn, Inc. My firm later became a
member.”
In what way have you witnessed
the industry changing over the
years? Also, how have you guided
your firm to meet today’s challenges?
“The industry has changed quite a bit since I began this
colorful journey.Years ago, we bought and sold colored gemstones based on price by size, color, cut and visual appeal.
Today, certification of a fine gemstone has become such
an essential part of a sale, as it should. However, I do believe
we sometimes get caught up in the paper certification rather
than the stone itself. I have seen certified Kashmir Sapphires
and Burma Rubies that were not too attractive to the eye,
yet have gone for big money due to certification papers.
Today, everyone has a niche in the business. At John
Buechner, Inc., we have always strived and succeeded to
build strong relationships with some of the most exclusive
gemstone dealers in the world, from locations within Asia,
Africa, India, Sri Lanka, Europe and the Americas. We
spend about 80% of our time searching for important
center stones and one-of-a-kind suites. We then determine
what each stone will be suited for; a ring, necklace, bracelet...
whatever it takes to show it best.”
Tell us about John Buechner, Inc. today and those we
are likely to speak with when we call?
“I have two of the best partners you could find anywhere.
Cliff Wallace and Mike Money each respectively have
and exciting gemstone finds happening throughout the
world, should keep us in very good shape.”
You are a citizen of the World. What is your
favorite city?
“It would have to be Bangkok, simply because it’s a 180
from Chicago, and the people are so so nice.”
What is your favorite hotel?
“Hands down, my favorite hotel would have to be the
Marriott Ihilani in Ko Olina on the west side of Oahu
for sheer beauty although it was just sold and will be a
future Four Seasons Resort.”
What is your favorite restaurant?
“My favorite restaurant is The Hacienda Del Sol in
Tucson which Doug Hucker introduced me to many
years ago.”
What was your best meal ever?
“My favorite meal would be the smoked duck breast
in red curry at Mazzaro’s on a little side street in
Bangkok.”
What is your favorite off-the-beaten-path
destination?
“My favorite thing to do is to rent a small house on the
beach in a town called Puerto Morelos in Mexico with
the entire family (all ten of us) which I am doing right
now. Am I lucky!”
Tell us something about yourself that most people
don’t know.
I am very shy if I don’t know you.
their own specialty and bring their talents to
the table every day. These two gentlemen have
discerning eyes to keep our ship sailing in the
right direction. We have been together for quite
some time now and it works.
There are always two of us when we travel to
buy, because four or six eyes are better than two.You
tend to make fewer mistakes when buying this way
although there are some heated discussions at times.”
What has your Membership with the AGTA
meant for/to you?
“I am very grateful for what the AGTA has done
for me and the entire colored gemstone industry.
Through promotion, education and disclosure the
AGTA has enabled me, a small fry in the trade, to use
their tools to sell with confidence and integrity. What
more could anyone ask for?
To me, the future of the colored gemstone industry looks quite grand. Consumers are becoming
more educated with the help of organizations like
AGTA and ICA. That knowledge, along with new
51
w e l c o m e
Firm Members
Garnet Impex
Asif Rab Ansari
New York, NY
Rare Gems & Minerals
Hussain Rezayee
Los Angeles, CA
Mariloff International, Inc.
Rafi Navon
Dallas, TX
California Gold
Trading Company
David Lawler
Berkeley, CA
Meredith Marmaduke Designs
Meredith Marmaduke
Amarillo, TX
General Refining Corporation
Kevin McDonagh
Hempsted, NY
M an u fac t u ri n g M embers Clasp Collection, Inc.
Daniel Matallana
New York, NY
Daria de Koning, Inc.
Daria de Koning
Los Angeles, CA
Estenza, Inc.
Vinay Kedia
San Ramon, CA
Joryel Vera Ent., Inc.
Joryel Vera
Fort Lauderdale, FL
ZAQ Inc.
Kuki Parul Seth
New York, NY
R e tai l M e m b e r
Caesar’s Designs, Inc.
Caesar Azzam
Pittsburgh, PA
Gem Fanatic
Michael Jakubowski
San Diego, CA
GemTime
Anne Blumer
Irving, TX
52
Kosnar Gem Co.
Brett Kosnar
Black Hawk, CO
A s s o ci at e d I n d u st ry
P ro f e s s i o nal EnvisionTEC, Inc.
Jenna Franklin
Dearborn, MI
MEMBER
MEMBER
Husar’s House Of
Fine Diamonds
Mary Husar Martin
West Bend, WI
Rasko Diamonds
Weitzman Abraham
Toronto, ON
Sun Horse, Inc.
Jessica MaHarry
Ojai, CA
Vandenberg’s Jewellers, Ltd.
Ralph Vandenberg
Edmonton, AB
S tudent M embers Adam Pollack
Charlotte, NC
Anna Juan
New York, NY
Aviva Shapiro
Brooklyn, NY
Forrest Fogelberg
Santa Maria, CA
Georgia Johnson
West End, NC
Jeffrey Munn
Cherry Hills Village, CO
Jennifer Yi
Brooklyn, NY
Joseph Teresi
Carlsbad, CA
Julia Hagen
Carlsbad, CA
Kathleen Niesen
Thousand Oaks, CA
Kenneth Barns
Oxnard, CA
Kurt Ko
Vancouver, BC
Linelle Soxman
North Vancouver, BC
Lolisa Windover
Peru, ME
Mary McDowell
Carlsbad, CA
Paras Kalra
Northridge, CA
Rajit Verma
Carlsbad, CA
Shellie Munn
Cherry Hills Village, CO
Shirley Ellington
Asheville, NC
A ssoci ated I ndustry
P rofessional M embers
Ecole De Gemmologie
De Montreal
Chandra Horn
Montreal, QC
Gravotech - 3Design
Cyril Saelens
Duluth, GA
THE WORLD’S PREMIER GEMSTONE
& GEMSTONE JEWELRY COMPETITION
A WHO’S WHO OF INDUSTRY EDITORS
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