IrishHighsArticle_TrailMagMay

craic-ing hills
Green and grit: the rocky Beenkeragh
Ridge and Ireland’s highest Carrauntoohil.
irish
highs
Your tales of the Emerald Isle’s
‘Munros’ will make your hill-walking
friends green with envy…
Words Phoebe Smith Photographs Neil S Price
T
angerine light casts a spell over the Irish mountains. Bathed
in the glow of a fiery dawn the carpet of grass glows almost
phosphorescent green, the dark grit of the Macgillycuddy’s
Reeks frothing above it like sparkling dark soda. The reassuring
muffled trickle of the Gaddagh River provides the perfect soundtrack
to this flawless mountainscape, seemingly readjusting its volume as
the colours deepen in the intensifying sunlight.
All at once the stillness is shattered as the distant cry of a bird
echoes discordantly down the valley, reverberating off the flanks of
Carrauntoohil and Beenkeragh, ringing down Hag’s Glen and finally
resonating in Cronin’s Yard – a farm run by five generations of
the same family – which marks the start of many an
ascent of this saw-toothed mountain ridge. Almost
immediately a door creaks open and the farmer
emerges, sending the livestock into an excited
frenzy, breaking the sublime tranquillity with
an escalating cacophony. �
Carrauntoohil, County Kerry
30 trail May 2011
May 2011 TRAIL 31
craic-ing hills
Route - Ireland's 1000m peaks
Start/finish Cronin’s Yard V837873
Distance 15km/9miles
Total Ascent ??m
Land of giants: walking in the
shadow of Carrauntoohil.
Taking in the three highest peaks in Ireland – Carrauntoohil (1039m),
Beenkeragh (1010m) and the twin-topped Caher (1001m) – this route
manages to pack in the country’s biggest highs, an exciting ridge
and ample scrambling into an epic day out!
Ireland made easy
The Macgillycuddy Reeks are a
20min drive from Kerry airport .
Daily flights to Kerry
from Ryanair.com
Car hire and buses
at the airport see
kerryairport.com
pat falvey
Pat has a passion for the Irish hills that is
undeniably infectious. He lives and breathes
adventure, and in 2004 became the first
Irishman to have summited Everest from
both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides. He’s
done the Seven Summits twice and led the
first Irish expedition to the South Pole.
�� www.patfalvey.com
Unperturbed by this abrupt transformation
is Pat Falvey – adventurer, high-altitude
mountaineer, entrepreneur and legend – who
readjusts his rucksack straps and walking pole
as naturally and effortlessly as a man tying his
shoelaces. His appearance and demeanour
is that of a confident but otherwise ordinary
hill-walker, but his mountain CV reads like
an unachievable wish list: first Irish man to
summit Everest from both the Nepalese and
Tibetan sides, only person in the world to have
completed the Seven Summits twice; leader of
the first ever Irish expedition to the South Pole;
member of Kerry Mountain Rescue team for
nine years; and – perhaps one of his proudest
achievements – the guide who led Ireland’s
President Mary McAleese to the top of the
country’s highest peak – Carrauntoohil – our
destination for the day.
Though Pat recently returned from a
training trip to Nepal, being back at the foot of
the Reeks has already bewitched him.
“You know, I travel for over seven months
of the year and I still get excited about coming
home to these hills,” he says as he pauses
to take a contemplative inhalation
of fresh Irish air, a wistful look
in his eyes. “I’ve climbed
Carrauntoohil over �
�
32 trail May 2011
May 2011 TRAIL 33
craic-ing hills
Scrambling up Hags Tooth Ridge with Pat
Falvey — the rocky ’tooth’ behind.
“We start ascending
the scree-littered
gully beneath the
jutting rocky spike
called Hag’s Tooth.’’
2,000 times but never get tired of it,” he says as
he leads the way over the first of two bridges.
Pat’s relationship with these hills goes back
a long way. After becoming a millionaire at the
age of 20 through his construction business
(which he started from scratch at 15), he lost
it all at 29, and fell into a deep depression,
contemplating suicide. Quite by chance the
weekend he chose to end it all, his friend
pestered him to go hill-walking up a small
peak called Mangerton Mountain in Kerry. He
reluctantly agreed – just to get rid of him – but
that day his life changed forever.
“Getting out on the hills saved me and gave me
a fresh perspective on everything,” he explains
as the dark, serrated hulk of Ireland’s highest
materialises into view dead ahead. “I could
finally appreciate what a beautiful landscape
can do to a man. I could see the colours of the
grass and hear the sound of the water, I was
overcome with a whole new set of emotions.”
The next peak Pat did after that was the one
that we were doing now – Carrauntoohil, the
glacially carved sandstone giant that at 1039m
sits as the ultimate high point in the chain of
peaks that make up Macgillycuddy’s Reeks.
“I was petrified about doing it,” laughs Pat
as he branches right above Lough Gouragh.
“I didn’t sleep for the three nights before I
went – that’s more stress than I ever felt before
a business meeting! But climbing it changed
me and since I reached the summit my life has
never been the same. I refocused, built up my
fortune again, retired at 40 and since
then have taken part in over 65
adventures across the world.”
Though he’s travelled
extensively Pat
asserts that
“there’s
34 trail May 2011
nowhere as special as Ireland’s hills
anywhere in the world” as we start
ascending the scree-littered gully beneath
the jutting spike called Hag’s Tooth, the start
of a multi-grade scramble up to the first of
Ireland’s three 1000m peaks.
Such is his love for these mountains that
Pat now lives on their lower slopes, ever
close to them. The walls inside his lodge
are adorned with spoils you’d expect of an
expeditioner – a sea fossil he heaved down
the world’s highest peak; the hurl (wooden
stick) he used to play the highest game of
poc fada (traditional Irish sport); a shin bone
from a tribe he lived with on Papua New
Guinea; photographs of his heroes Ernest
Shackleton, Tom Crean and Ger McDonnell –
but one photo that holds unexpected pride
of place on this mountain wall of fame, next
to the one of him standing triumpantly on
Everest, is one of him on Carrauntoohil.
A man who clearly regards the ridges
and peaks of the Emerald Isle with the
same pride and fondness as summiting
the mighty Everest is the obvious choice of
guide to introduce anyone to the delights
of Ireland’s mountains, and already his
enthusiasm is catching as I pause to take in
the impressive vista surrounding us.
“Happy enough?” he enquires as we
approach the crack from where we can gain
access to the sharp bone-like pyramidal
‘tooth’ of rock. This simple phrase becomes
a signal to imply that movement is to follow
– the human equivalent of ‘giddy up’ – and
every time I hear it I feel a stirring in my belly
as I anticipate the excitement to come.
“People often choose to go up the zigzags
over there,” explains Pat, gesturing to a
twisting path winding up the knoll above
Lough Callee. “They used to use Devil’s
Ladder, which cuts up the gully between the
two loughs, but it’s quite eroded now. �
Enjoying new highs: descending onto the
Beenkeragh Ridge, Coomloughra below.
craic-ing hills
to a high alert. I use the solidity of the rocks to
Other people will take Brother O’ Shea’s Gully,
edge upwards, not wanting to miss a single
but this is definitely the most exciting route.”
minute of this sublime intensity until, almost
Hag’s Tooth Ridge rises sharply up the
abruptly, the wind is gone. Serenity returns
eastern edge of Beenkeragh, Ireland’s second
and we’re at the summit.
highest mountain. Its blackened rocks slot
“Amazing,” says Pat gazing at Carrauntoohil,
together like a spinal cord forming a complex
now immersed in sunshine, the five metre
jigsaw of scrambles. One side of the bristles
cross that stands tall on the summit dazzling
offers a jumble of rocks punctuated by hidden
like a silver talisman. “Never let the weather
grass-covered holes, the other presents
dictate whether you go out – because you
precipitous drops into a scree-filled abyss.
never know what will happen. Look at this…”
“There are so many scrambles here, you
Intoxicating views stretch in every direction:
simply choose what you want to do – Grade
the scooped-out lake of Coomloughra below,
1, 2 or 3 – take your pick! But the problem with
the tracings of the Galtee Mountains far in the
ridges is the wind,” says Pat as we sit on top
distance and beneath my feet the notorious
of the Hag’s Tooth, our breath being stolen by
knife-edged Beenkeragh Ridge slung between
unpredictable intense gusts. “We’ll do well to
this peak and Carrauntoohil.
keep right of this when we can; follow me.”
“It’s not hard,” says Pat, weaving between
Mist drapes provocatively over the summit
the stony spires descending onto the ridge,
of Carrauntoohil to the left, slicing the sunlight
Been there – loved that! Walking and scram“but volatile wind can be lethal. A friend of
into pockets of clarity, as we leave this pinnacle bling abounds on the Beenkeregh Ridge
(above and main picture).
mine, a competent climber, was killed here –
to start the main scramble. The rock is cold
blown straight off by a sudden unexpected
under my fingers as I watch the precision with
gust. You need to be aware and take it slow.
which Pat picks out his route ahead, the acrid
�
But remember to enjoy it – it
wind cutting against my cheeks. A moody light
really is a stunning ridge.”
aptly captures the drama and buzz
this ridge provokes. It’s difficult to
hear anything but the roar of
the gale echoing in my
irish munros
ears, stimulating
my other
Mountain
RangeOS GR height (m/ft) Mountain
RangeOS GR height (m/ft)
senses
Carrauntoohil MacGillycuddy's ReeksV803844 1039 3409
Cnoc an Chuillin MacGillycuddy's ReeksV823833 958 3143
36 trail May 2011
Beenkeragh MacGillycuddy's ReeksV801853
Caher (East Top)MacGillycuddy's ReeksV792839
Cnoc na Péiste MacGillycuddy's ReeksV836842
Caher (West Top) MacGillycuddy's ReeksV789840
Maolán BuiMacGillycuddy's ReeksV832838
Carrauntoohil Tooth MacGillycuddy's ReeksV800847
1010
1001
988
975
973
959
3314
3284
3241
3199
3192
3146
Brandon Mtn Brandon Group
Q460115
The Big Gun MacGillycuddy's ReeksV840845
Cruach Mhór MacGillycuddy's ReeksV841848
L.Coimín Móir Mtn MacGillycuddy's ReeksV828834
Lugnaquillia Dublin/WicklowT032917
Galtymore Galty MountainsS879238 952
939
932
926
925
919
3123
3081
3058
3035
3015
March 2011 TRAIL 37
craic-ing hills
Checking off
one of Caher’s
two summits!
Starting out along the first rocky crest the
wind begins to pick up on cue. Its wriggly
backbone is an exhilarating combination of
chunky scree, towering sandstone and patchy
grass. In places one side gently rolls towards
the edge, while the other is completely
exposed, giving way to a sheer drop of several
hundred metres – and all this beneath the
highest mountain in the country creates an
electrifying and intense hands-on experience.
Pat steps ahead confidently, eyes transfixed
on the route ahead, occasionally gesturing
to rocks to grip and places to shelter from
the wind. Carrauntoohil is tantalisingly close
now, the rocks are starting to look like giant
concrete steps beckoning us forward and at
a pace that somehow belies the height, we
reach the top, but a grey cloud is on our tail.
“It was on this summit I decided that I would
climb Everest,” reveals Pat, staring out onto
the disappearing ridge we just completed as a
blanket of clag grasps us in its cold fingers.
“My friend that day never thought I’d do it,
but I did,” he continues and I spy a memorial
plaque on the summit cross that he’s touching
gently. It’s dedicated to one of Pat’s friends
and mentors, Ger McDonnell (whose portrait
hangs on Pat’s mountain lodge wall). He was
the first Irishman to reach the top of K2 but
died on the descent helping other climbers.
The mood has shifted to match the dank
mist that surrounds us, and I can see that Pat
is all at once back in the Himalayas reliving
glories, remembering friends lost. Then slowly
and delicately, the cloud begins to thin.
“Pat Falvey, isn’t it?” comes a voice behind
us, and a man materialises from the gloom.
He clasps Pat’s hand, his face flushing
crimson with pride. The two of them chat like
old friends despite this being the first time
they’ve met. The other walker is Billy Murphy,
a local man who, it transpires, has only every
climbed Carrauntoohil by the same route.
“Come with us,” Pat insists as we head for
our final 1000m peak, Caher.
“No, I won’t impose,” says Billy. “It’s just
been grand to meet you, Pat.”
“I’ll show you another route
down,” he bargains with a
palpable persuasion. Billy
accepts, and the �
pair lead on.
Double trouble: Caher’s
two tops loom ahead.
Above Commloughra, after summiting
cross adorned Carrauntoohil (left).
craic-ing hills
other irish munros
© Feargus Cooney / Alamy
Lush Lugnaquilla, County Wicklow.
Galtymore
Mountain,
Co Limerick
R878238
3,015ft
A whaleback of a
Munro with towering
cliffs to the north and
real sense of isolation.
Approach via Caher.
Three’s a magic number – leaving the Ireland’s third and final 1000m peak – Caher.
Resting on a ’rung’ of the Devil’s Ladder.
“I think I could seriously
stay on these
mountains forever...”
40 trail May 2011
Caher is something of a duplicitous mountain.
Not only does it have two summits – which Pat
insists you must climb both of to be able to claim
it – but it also has something of a split personality.
On the northern side it’s a complex puzzle of sheer
corries and sudden drop-offs. But on its southern
side it’s a real gentle giant, with a rolling, grassy
slope petering out to patches of fields.
But Billy isn’t delighting in this observation as I
am, he’s just ecstatic to be discovering a summit in
the company of a true Irish legend, knowing that
his hill-walking has now been opened up to more
routes, more possibilities and more adventures –
which coincidentally is what Pat’s done for me too.
Before this visit Ireland had never been on my
mountain radar but now, descending Devil’s
Ladder, with Pat pointing out climbs and winter
ascents, I find myself itching to do more here.
“Sometimes I come here late because suddenly
I just have to see these hills,” says Pat as we pass
between the two loughs. “When I’m walking in
the Reeks I feel completely at home. I think I could
seriously stay on these mountains forever.”
In Ireland there’s only one
way to celebrate a summit!
Lugnaquilla Mountain,
Co Wicklow T032917 3,035ft
A wild-looking peak, flanked with a forested glen
and swathes of heather. Start from Glenmalure.
�� With thanks to Ireland’s tourist board – Discover
Ireland. For more information on planning your trip
to Ireland, visit www.discoverireland.com
brandon mountain
Spare time in the Emerald Isle? Then why not check out this
spiritual peak on Co Kerry’s Dingle Peninsula – the highest
mountain outside of Macgillycuddy’s Reeks.
Brandon Mountain (Q460116)
is named after Saint Brendan
who, legend has it, back in 530
AD climbed this 952m hill to see
the Americas before setting sail
for them. It’s something of a
pilgrimage for Irish Catholics with
a popular ‘Saint’s Road’ marked
by crosses leading to the summit.
However, this is a less crowded
route option – a good choice in bad
weather due to its proximity to the
sea. There’s also a memorial to him
that’s worth checking out before
you climb it, down near the water at Taking the Dingle Way, Brandon
Brandon Creek.
Creek in the distance.
Route
From the car park follow the
1 Dingle Way climbing up to
the col beneath Masatiompan.
of crags and gouged corries
dropping down to the east.
This is at the point where
the main ridge meets the
Faha Ridge – a Grade 1 scramble.
In bad weather confusion may be
possible so make sure you don’t
start descending it by mistake.
Retain your course first
south-south-west
Masatiompan
then south, till you
reach the summit
Way
cross and cairn.
le
g
in
D
the col bear south,
2 From
following the ridge as it
undulates – grassy on the west
side, but a glacially carved mix
3
As the path forks Billy parts ways with Pat, but
he’s bearing a grin that even several kilometres on
an unchanging path would fail to wipe away.
Na Branair
“I honestly believe that if you’re kind to someone
The
Beennaman
then it comes back to you 15 times,” says Pat as
Cnoc na
he waves goodbye. “That person will go on
Cuas an
mBristi
2 Piaras Mór
and be nice to someone else, prompting them
tSeabhaic
to do the same and it spreads – it’s almost
contagious – and benefits everybody.”
Pat’s personal philosophy is inspired by
the lessons that these hills have taught him.
y
1 Kilometre
Wa
He says: “Life is like a mountain, and we all
gle
n
1 Mile
i
START/
eD
have mountains to climb, we all have our own FINISH
Th
3 Coimin na gCnámh
personal Everest. Believe in yourself, your
N
1
goals, never quit, have dreams, go for them
NORTH
and make them a reality.”
4
Ballinknockane
If that’s the one lesson a trip to Ireland’s hills
Brandon Mountain
will teach you, it’s definitely worth the trip.
As we reach Cronin’s Yard again the farm
is now back to its earlier dawn serenity. The
Approaching the col.
light is a diffused shade of amber, the sound of
the river perfectly complementing the peaceful
atmosphere. And though, in the setting sun,
the colours of the hills are ever so slightly muted
compared to the morning, it doesn’t matter. I am
already enchanted. T
To
return
simply retrace
your steps.
4
Facts
Start/finish
Car park at
Q89XX??
Distance
12km/7.5miles
Total Ascent ??m
May 2011 TRAIL 41