Pattern - Red Rooster Fabrics

by Penny Sturges of Quiltsillustrated, Inc.
x 5"d
ely 13"w x 9"h
bag approximat
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Latte Da bag by Penny Sturges
www.redroosterfabrics.com
Latte Da
Designed by Penny Sturges of Quiltsillustrated, Inc. using Mochachino for Red Rooster Fabrics
Fabric Requirements:
For Stabilizing the Bag:
Top of bag:
1/4 yard
Bosal Single Sided Fusible, In-R-Form (Foam)
Bottom of bag
1/4 yard
(In-R-Form) 495S
Lining
1/3 yard
Decorative trim
Handle
1/2 yard
PFF-Penny’s favorite fusible Bosal 326LF/426LF
1/4 yard
Single Sided Fusible Batting
Inner Pockets
1/3 yard
Bosal Craf-Tex #337
Cover for bag bottom
Fat Quarter
For bottom of bag
1/2 yard
Turn lock tab
12” X 15”
One Oval Turn Lock set in your choice of
color
Sample shown in Gun Metal, available at
your local quilt store or at:
Quiltsillustrated.com
Be sure to keep all 14 labels with the pattern after
you cut them, they are the cutting instructions!
Bosal single sided fusible foam is referred to
throughout the pattern as FOAM. Bosal fusible batting is referred to as PFF, Penny’s favorite fusible.
Page 1 January 2016
FIRST: Read through the instructions. All seams are ¼” unless otherwise stated. Fusible is always adhered to the
wrong side of the fabric. Hint: lay fusible side up and cover with the fabric, also right side up and fuse with iron.
WOF means width of fabric. Below is a “cut sheet”. Cut out each piece on the dotted lines and label every fabric as
you cut. Each color on the cut sheet below represents a different fabric or material. This cut sheet is your cutting directions! There are 14 labels, clip together and save with the pattern for future use.
Bag Lining,
Outer Upper Bag
Cut 2
Cut 2
Outer Bag, FOAM
11” tall x 18” wide
12” x 19”
Yes, this is shorter than
the outer bag!
Turn Lock Tab,
Cut 2
7” tall x 19” wide
Cut 1
FOAM
4½” x 5”
Inside Pockets,
Outer Lower Bag
Cut 2
Cut 1
Lining, PFF
12” tall x WOF
11” x 18”
Label the fat quarter
Handles, PFF
For the bottom cover insert
4” x 20”
Cut 2
7” tall x 19” wide
Handles
Cut 1
4” x WOF/ trim to size later
Trim Strip,
Cut 2
Cut 1
P
2” x WOF
Turn Lock Flap,
4½ ” wide x 11” tall
Cut 1
Bag Bottom Insert Cut 2
Pocket PFF,
Bosal Craf-tex
5½” x WOF
approx. 5” x 15”**
** Measure finished bag
For exact dimensions!
Page 2 January 2016
Cut 1
Latte Da is a very easy bag to construct! Really! Be sure to keep all of your pieces marked. Use a
highlighter to mark out all of the steps as you complete them! This eliminates confusion!
Latte Da bag anatomy!
Latte Da from the front, finished.
Trim Strip
This strip is sewn
into the seam
between the
upper and lower bag, it is optional and does
not change the
dimensions of
the bag.
Upper portion of outer bag
Lower portion of outer bag
Step 1– Fold the long skinny trim strip lengthwise, wrong sides together and
press. Cut this piece in half, you will now have two, 1” x approximately 22”
pieces. It is good if the trim strip extends beyond the bag, we will trim later. Sew one trim piece, using a less than ¼” seam, matching raw edges to
the top raw edge of the lower portion of the outer bag.
Press and repeat for other outer bag piece. Now, with right sides together,
aligning raw edges, sew the upper outer bag along the 19” raw edges.
Open, press and repeat for the other outer bag piece.
Step 2– Fuse foam to the wrong sides of both outer bag pieces.
Quilt them both. Don’t panic, this can be as ornate as you wish,
I love to do a 1” cross-hatch! Or you can follow the patterns in
the fabric. Remember, the lighter color your fabric pieces are,
the more quilting is necessary. Dark fabrics need less quilting.
Next, trim the completed outer bag pieces to12” tall x 18” wide.
Take care to match the trim, so it will match when you sew the
bag pieces together later. Set aside.
Raw edges aligned
Lower portion of outer bag
Step 3– Fuse PFF to the wrong
side of lining pieces and quilt if
needed. Sometimes I just do the
top 4” inches with a few wavy
lines, the inner pockets will stabilize the rest. Don’t over quilt, you
will not trim this piece so it
needs to retain its proper dimensions.
Step 4- Fold the inner pocket piece wrong sides together and press. Open and place the PFF right up to
the pressed fold line, fold again, wrong sides together, matching raw edges. Press. Now stitch the folded
edge using a ¼” topstitch. Fold in half and cut, so you will now have two pieces 6” x approx. 22”. They will
only be finished at the top edge! Set aside.
Page 3 January 2016
Step 5- On both lining pieces, measure down 8” from the top raw edge, using your big ruler draw a line
from side to side. I use a regular ink pen, this line will not show. Place the bottom raw edges of the pocket
on this line, with the finished topstitched edge pointing downward and sew from side to side, using ¼”
seam. Flip the pocket up and press well. Place a pin on each side near the seam line to keep the pocket
from shifting. Do this for both lining pieces.
Now anchor the pocket pieces using divider seams to create pocket sections in any size you desire. Keep
the dividers about 2” from the sides of lining. Repeat for both lining pieces. Remember to backstitch at the
top of each divider for added strength. See diagrams. Set aside.
Bag lining
Bag lining
Right side
Right side
Drawn Line for pocket
8” from top of lining
Pocket divider seam– your choice! Back tack at tops of
each sewn divider
Step 6– For the handle, fold the 4” X WOF in half and cut, you will now have two handles 4” x half of the
WOF. Fold in ½” at the short ends of each handle, and press. Centering, fuse the PFF to the wrong side of
the handle fabric. Do not quilt this piece. Press the handle lengthwise with both raw edges folded to the
middle (PFF to the inside). You may have to use a few clips/pins along the way to hold. Now fold in half
lengthwise again (first folded edges together), pressing and pinning along the way. Topstitch closed using
a 1/8” stitch, catching both folds in the seam. Do this on both sides of the handle. For a more dramatic
effect, I run an additional row of stitches parallel to the first rows.
Step 7- Let’s make the turn lock flap. First fold with wrong
sides together, matching 4½” ends and press. Open and
place the foam right up to the pressed crease, refold
and fuse. Next fold with right sides together, matching
4½” ends, sew both sides leaving the bottom unfinished.
Turn, press and quilt as desired. There is no right or wrong
side to the turn lock flap!
Middle of bag
Right side
of outer
bag
6” in between
Step 8– Find the top middle of the right
side of outer bag front and back and
mark with a pin. Align one finished handle
raw edge ends with the raw edges of the
bag, along the top. There is 6” between
handles, measure 3” in both directions
from the pin you placed. Use a less than
¼” seam to sew these in place. Repeat
for other handle.
Decide which outer bag piece is the
back. Place the turn lock flap on the right
side of the outer bag, raw edges matching raw edges at the bag top. Sew in
place using a less than ¼” seam.
Page 4 January 2016
Step 9– Creating the outer bag, with right sides together, sew the outer bag together. Sew both sides and
bottom, leaving just the top edge of the bag open. Do the same for the lining, leaving an 8” opening in
the bottom middle for turning. Cut off the “trim” pieces at this time. Leave both the outer bag and lining
fusible side out.
Position the template below onto the very bottom corners of the bag and lining, trace it onto the fusible,
(not onto the fabric!) See diagram. Now cut on these lines. This will leave “corners” missing on the bag and
lining bottoms.
Now with the bag inside out, match the side seam to the bottom seam on the same side and pin, then
sew across using a ¼” seam to create a corner. Do this for both the lining and outer bag.
Step 10– Let’s put the lining and bag together. Turn the lining right sides out. Place the lining inside the outer bag (be sure right sides are together) and match the upper raw edges on the lining to the raw edges
on the bag. Match side seams and pin. Next, pin all the way around the top opening, it should be nice
and smooth, no tucks. Using a ¼” seam stitch the lining to the outer bag all the way around the entire
opening.
This is the fun part! Reach inside and put your hand through the 8” opening in the lining, grab the bag bottom and pull through the lining opening. Next, push the lining back into the bag, pushing all the corners
out. Tug on the handles a bit too.
With all of the lining in the bag, check carefully along the top of the bag to be sure you caught all the
seams. Topstitch using a generous ¼” seam all around the opening. Don’t close lining opening yet!
Trace template here, aligning evenly
with the very bottom and side edges!
Cut away both corners.
Step 11- Measure the inside bottom of your bag,
cut two pieces of Craf-tex that match the width
and length. Stack these on top of each other and
with a longer stitch length sew them together, I
sew a large “X” from corner to corner. Slip the bottom into the bag to check the fit, trim if necessary.
Cover this with coordinating fabric. Sometimes I
glue the fabric other times I sew it on, depending
on how much fabric is remaining. Set this aside until
you are finished with installing the turn lock.
Turn Lock! See next
Finished Flap Diagram
page for more details.
Attached to
Find the middle of the
flap here
flap and place a pin or
chalk to mark. Measure
Chalk marks go
up 3/4” from the boton the back
Page 5 January 2016
tom and mark. The
side of tab!
oval area is where the
template is traced.
When finished with the turn lock on the flap, sit the bag upright on its
bottom and bring the flap forward and position it in the middle of the
bag front. Measuring in from each side to position. Mark with chalk and
install the “pronged” part of turn lock here. DO NOT GO THROUGH THE
LINING, only through the outer bag. Your hand will go through the lining
opening for this!
Template
cut out and
save with pattern
This is a 2½”
square if using a
ruler!