Finistère`s finest by foot

Portsmouth the waterfront city
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A Voyage special supplement
Food lovers will enjoy Portsmouth Festival
of Food, taking place in the summer and
bringing Food Festivals to Southsea, Port
Solent and Gunwharf Quays. The events will
Finistère
T H E B E S T O F N AT U R E A N D A RT
showcase top fare from farmers and food
retailers around the region and will feature
Welcome to Finistère, the area of western Brittany known as France’s richest
region for culture, history and breathtaking natural landscapes.
demonstrations from local restaurants.
A real treat for foodies, there will be free
tasters and many colourful stalls to browse.
Local Annaliza Davis guides you through some of Finistère’s landmarks, natural
phenomenon and artistic heritage that make this area so utterly unforgettable...
Look out for this summer’s annual events
such as Live at the Bandstand (May – Aug)
Opera in the Park (July), Tea Dance (June),
Portsmouth Festivities (June) and the
International Kite Festival (August).
Finistère’s finest by foot
Brittany is known as one of France’s gems
and Finistère, with its dramatic coastlines
and raw natural beauty, is a haven for
walkers and nature-lovers. Many walks offer
glimpses of Finistère’s most breathtaking
sights, and here is a selection...
What’s on
Portsmouth has a year-round programme of
events to keep the whole family entertained.
Starting the proceedings in February,
Charles Dickens Birthplace Museum
will be opening its doors for free on the
7th to commemorate the birth of Dickens
Pick up some of the finest and freshest local
Roscoff : Chapelle Sainte Barbe
produce at the Hampshire Farmers Market in
Sainte Barbe Chapel is perched on an exceptional
spot just five minutes’ walk from the ferry port.
Southsea on 20th February, 20th March, 17th
April and 15th May 2011. Whilst in Southsea,
why not browse the quirky shops for gifts? With
a host of stores offering antiques, collectables
and vintage finds you’ll be spoilt for choice.
in Portsmouth. The city then begins its
Lots of fun events take place during the
countdown to the author’s bicentenary,
Easter school holidays including hands-on
when a range of ‘Made in Portsmouth’
activities at the Royal Marines Museum,
events are being planned throughout 2012.
free children’s entertainment at Port Solent,
Here, you gain a magnificent view over Morlaix
Bay, Île de Batz, the port plus the old stones
of historic Roscoff just around the corner.
Cléder : Les Amiets
The chapel itself has presided over the bay
since 1619, ready to reassure seafarers and
inspire anyone exploring the adjacent GR34
coastal path. Its fine location is conveniently
between the Old Port and the botanical
gardens, home to 3000 subtropical species.
Stride out along the Côte des Sables, whose
string of sandy beaches includes the La Plage
des Amiets, undoubtedly one of Finistère’s most
idyllic locations. Admire the clear, turquoise
waters and the contrasting white sands stretching
over 1.5km – a sight sure to stay in your memory.
an Easter Gift Fair at Gunwharf Quays.
When you next visit make sure you join
examples of this versatile and simple fashion
one of the regular guided walks around
staple, the Little Black Dress exhibition
the city. Discover more about Portsmouth on
comes to the City Museum from 12th February
foot with walks such as Authors of Southsea,
to 5th June 2011. A must-have piece of clothing
Pubs of Portsmouth and Spice Island.
for any woman’s wardrobe, the exhibition looks
If you prefer to get around on two wheels
at the history of the dress from the Edwardian
then follow one of our fascinating cycle
era to the present day, and shows the various
trails around the city, taking in attractions
transformations at the hands of designers.
and famous sights along the way. Pick up a
Includes icons such as Marilyn Monroe’s black
leaflet from our Visitor Information Centres
dress and a rich selection of accessories.
or check our website for further details.
Les Falaises de Beg an
Fry near Locquirec
Check the website
Imagine: an endless horizon, clear waters
below and greenery all around, with cliffs
that drop so sharply you’ll shiver... this is
Guimaëc on the cliffs of Beg an Fry.
Make sure you check the official visitor
website at www.visitportsmouth.co.uk
for further details on the city’s
fascinating attractions and packed
programme of events, or call
+44 (0)23 9282 6722.
Roscoff
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Plage des Amiets
Running parallel to the GR34 coastal
path Les Amiets is an idyll for walkers, a
wonderful spot for watersports and its 1744
Guardhouse adds a touch of history.
Celebrating the history of the LBD and
showcasing some of the most amazing
Les Monts d’Arrée
The coastal path winds through this protected
landscape, its steep climbs and sudden dips
perfect for keeping fit. The Plage de Venizella is
where the Resistance disembarked in 1944, adding
an historic dimension to this truly beautiful area.
Brittany’s mountains, Les Monts d’Arrée, are a
striking feature in an otherwise low landscape.
From the top of Roch Trévézel (384m) admire a
superb panorama – on a clear day you might even
see Morlaix Bay. The countryside here is remarkable
for its diversity, including peat bogs, heather, farms
and moorland; sprinkled throughout is the local
granite of ornate churches and traditional dwellings.
Les Monts d’Arrée provide, above all, a paradise
for mountain bikers, walkers and nature lovers.
Anyone travelling through these awe-inspiring
landscapes is amazed by the wild expanse of
heathered hills and wooded slopes. In the heart of
this grandeur is a protected lake, Lac du Drennec,
whose beauty is enjoyed by fishermen, families,
horse-riders and mountain-bikers. The adventurous
can try watersports, the less energetic can seek
out nearby cultural activities, but the simplest way
to enjoy Drennec is simply to walk and wonder.
Check the website
www.paysduleon.com
www.roscoff-tourisme.com
www.tourisme.morlaix.fr
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Finistère: the best of nature and art
Finistère: the best of nature and art
Route des Peintres – in the
footsteps of the Masters
The settings of southwest Finistère inspired
some of the world’s finest painters. The
Route des Peintres unveils the landscapes
that informed the Ecole de PontAven,masters such as Gauguin, Max Jacob
and Sérusier plus the British Robert Henry,
Joseph Bulfield and Joseph Milner-Kite.
Concarneau
Les Abers
Brittany remains the most popular coastal
destination for the French, not least for its
unparalleled natural beauty. In fine weather,
the sandy beaches and dazzlingly clear
waters offer perfect settings for relaxation
or watersports but off-season, Brittany
truly comes into its own – particularly
the coastlines of Finistère to the west.
In spring, the vast open spaces of Finistère
come alive with blossoms and wildlife so that
every corner of this region offers something
fascinating. It has been said that there is more
sky in Finistère than in any other part of Europe,
and it certainly feels as if here you can always
find the widest horizons and the freshest air.
Courageous coastal walking
The furthest western point is the Pointe du Raz
(pronounced pwon doo rah) is one of France’s
Grands Sites, recognised for its staggering cliffs
and swirling waters. Thousands flock here in
summer but off-season visitors can appreciate its
raw attraction, the whipping wind and savage seas.
The famous GR34 coastal route includes the entire
Finistère coast, totalling some 1200km. Also
known as the Customs Trail (Sentier des douaniers)
the up-and-down nature of this walk is not for
the faint-hearted but its reward includes amazing
views and unequalled natural vantage points.
Lighthouses: not just
a pretty sight
Finistère is renowned for waters that challenge
even the most experienced sailors, granite
cliffs that plunge to raging seas and, by
consequence, an abundance of lighthouses. In
1800 France had 24 lighthouses – or phares in
French – and by 1831 this totalled 361, with a
significant proportion protecting Finistère.
Happily, two of the most famous lighthouses
are open to the public. The Phare d’Eckmühl is
in south Finistère near Penmarc’h (pronounced
pan-marr) measures 65m and affords views
across the Îles Glénan and Audierne Bay while
in northwest Finistère, the very picturesque
Phare St Mathieu is open to the public following
its classification as an historic monument.
Head west of Brest to Pointe St Mathieu and you
can’t fail to be amazed by the setting: a soaring
lighthouse with the skeleton of a magnificent
Abbey in its shadow. An absolute must-see.
Islands and legends
Pontusval
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The area north of St Mathieu up to LampaulPloudalmézeau is known as Pays d’Iroise, home
Quimper
Quimper
Kerlouan
to France’s first natural marine park. Take a
boat to the captivating islands of Ouessant and
Molène or enjoy Balad’Iroise, walks from 6km
to 33km that incorporate the highlights of this
region (this year’s event to be held on 1st May).
Follow the coast north and between SaintPabu and Goulven you’ll find the legendary
Pays des Abers, whose unusual topography
is like Norwegian Fjords with estuary lands
exposed at low tide. Guardhouses and lookouts
bear witness to the defensive history of this
area while traces of more distant past are
found in its standing stones and megaliths.
The shopping or restaurants alone justify visiting
Quimper but the awesome cathedral and Musée
des Beaux Arts make it unmissable. This Art
Museum is extremely accessible and captivating
in its variety. The exhibition running from April
to August 2011 explores ‘Turner to Monet :
discovering Brittany through landscapes in the
19th century’, a collection not to be missed.
Concarneau
Pont-Aven
Concarneau’s lively markets, fishing ports and
picturesque Old Town have seduced many visitors,
including great French writer Gustave Flaubert,
and is renowned as an artists’ haven. Paul Signac,
Alfred Guillou, the Deyrolles, Le Gout-Gérard,
Edward Emerson Simmons and later Jean Le
Merdy figured among countless international
painters for whom Concarneau was a Muse.
Envisage babbling streams, water mills, bridges
and pretty teashops for an idea of Pont-Aven.
This adorable town hosts an art museum that
attracts 50 000 visitors a year plus some 15
galleries dotted around the climbing streets.
Head towards the tourist office, visit the current
exhibition in the Maison du Patrimoine inside
the fortifications, return to the plaza where
galleries such as Dock Ouest display splashes
of modern colour and, keeping the sea on your
left, head for the famous Galerie Gloux.
Even today the inspiring combination of
enchanting countryside, granite architecture
and Breton culture is evident but in the 1880s
this was a refuge from Paris, notably for Paul
Gauguin whose name is inextricably linked
with Pont-Aven. Here, he met Bernard and
Sérusier, developing the innovative and symbolic
style Synthétisme, while 100 other painters
summered in Pont-Aven, sealing its renown.
This charming timbered building with panelled
interior contains treasures from 1850-1950
plus the pick of contemporary paintings and
sculpture. The Gloux family boast direct links
to Concarneau’s art pedigree yet the gallery is
cosy and its staff more like welcoming hosts.
In 1890, Gauguin’s quest for tranquillity took
him to the remote beaches of Le Pouldu, while
Marie Henry’s guesthouse became a pilgrimage
point for Gaugin, Jacob Meyer, Paul Sérusier and
Charles Filiger. The Maison Marie Henry is now a
museum – look for ‘Buvette de la Plage’ to find it.
From 1850 to 1950, painters and sculptors
of all nationalities drew inspiration from
Quimper’s colourful timbered buildings,
cobbled streets, riverside restaurants and grand
architecture, while the Faïence manufacturers
such as Henriot – producing instantly
recognisable hand-painted Breton pottery –
supplement Quimper’s artistic heritage.
Check the website
For full details of the Painters Trail, visit
www.quimper-tourisme.com www.
tourismeconcarneau.fr
www.pontaven.com
These riches plus the Musée Départemental
Breton make Quimper is one of Brittany’s
most beautiful experiences, rightly
classed as City of Art and History.
For general information about Finistère,
visit www.finisterebrittany.com, which
includes an English-language option.
Pont-Aven
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Finistère: the best of nature and art
Walking Brittany’s Customs Path
Accommodation in Finistère
Hôtel-restaurant La Villa Tri Men,
Combrit St-Marine ***
Serenely gazing towards the
millionaire yachts of Bénodet, Villa Tri
Men epitomises elegant coastal living.
You instinctively sense that those
sloping lawns are perfectly placed for
copious breakfasts, afternoon teas
or sipping wine at sundown. Built as
a family home in 1913, Villa Tri Men
retains its personal charm and style.
Contemporary improvements include
a lift, WiFi access and stylish neutral
décor with subtle maritime touches.
Its twenty modest bedrooms are
beautiful with snug armchairs, fine
bathrooms, generous wardrobes
and neat balconies for star-gazing
- and boast possibly the most
comfortable beds you’ll ever sink into.
Spoil yourself in the Tri Men
seaview restaurant, where the
dishes of chef Frédéric Claquin
were recently commended by gourmet guide Gault Millau, winning two toques
(chef’s hats). Indulge, enjoy, then take an evening walk around the harbour
and return to your stylish retreat, marvelling at how life can be so lovely.
Hôtel-Restaurant Ar Men Du, Névez ***
Follow the country road to
the very edge of the ocean to
discover Ar Men Du, a hideaway
hotel full of contradictions.
The simple white exterior contains
14 attractive bedrooms, each with
sunrise or sunset views (the suite has
both) and a renowned yet relaxed
restaurant presided over by Michelinstarred Patrick Le Guen and his son
Jean-Marie. Their exquisite, locallysourced dishes are served with
wine recommendations from the
delightfully cultured owner PierreYves Roué, a qualified sommelier.
Hôtel Gradlon, Quimper ***
Hôtel Aux Tamaris, Roscoff **
The famous city of Quimper has
tucked this charming hotel just
behind its city centre yet it remains
a treasure largely undiscovered.
The Hotel Gradlon is but a brief and
leisurely walk from the breathtaking
cathedral and the river yet its tranquil
atmosphere is otherworldly.
Roscoff is always a surprise for firsttime visitors, its charming old town
and quirky shops contrasting with the
wide waters and open-air markets.
Tel: 00 33 (0)298 95 04 39
Website: www.hotel-gradlon.com
Gillian Thornton stepped out in Brittany to enjoy a very
arresting walk that’s rich in maritime history and custom.
This appealing hideaway starts at 99€ per night for two people and you can
even enjoy a full gourmet menu from 39€. A secret you might prefer to keep!
Tel: 00 33 (0)298 06 84 22
Website: www.men-du.com
The 20 bedrooms complete
the effect with highly effective
quadruple glazing and serene
soft furnishings that tempt you
simply to recline and relax. Add to this the countless cobbled streets
and intriguing shops of Quimper and you might stay longer than you
meant to - but at 89€ for 2 people, you could easily do just that.
Feared To Tread
Yield to langoustine and
mushroom ravioli with a parmesan
mousseline, pigeon with foie gras
or the excellent organic strawberry
desserts, then enjoy direct access
to the beach or the GR14 coastal path should you need to stroll it off.
Tel: 00 33 (0)298 51 94 94
Website: www.trimen.fr
Entering its understated façade you’re
then ushered through the lobby to a
traditional reception area that could
come from an Agatha Christie novel.
Chintz-covered armchairs and sidetables frame the inner courtyard
garden, adding to the fascinating
illusion that you’re miles from city life.
Where
Likewise, the Hôtel Aux Tamaris
balances old-world charm with
modern comforts, affordability with
luxurious touches and somehow
feels tucked away despite being a
short walk from Roscoff centre. This
elegant independent hotel overlooks
a seemingly endless sea that revives
and relaxes, offering several excursions
and attractions often accessible
by foot. This is the epitome of a
coastal guest-house with a personal
welcome, warm contemporary
colours and a sense of the unique.
Perfect for weekend
escapes, longer holidays
and even relaxing stopovers on the way to or from the ferry, Tamaris
double rooms are from 55€ or 74€ for bed and breakfast with full
dinner at a partner restaurant. Hide away and enjoy yourself...
Tel: 00 33 (0)298 61 22 99
Website: www.hotel-aux-tamaris.com
Copyrights: Office de tourisme de Roscoff - Pays de Morlaix Hervé Ronné - Pays du Léon - Finistère Tourisme agence de développement touristique - Bernard Galleron - Office de tourisme de Quimper - Office de tourisme
de Pont-Aven/Alain Le Cloarec - Office de tourisme de Concarneau - Galerie Gloux Concarneau - Hôtel Gradlon Quimper - Hôtel La Villa Tri Men Sainte Marine - Hôtel restaurant Ar Men Du -Hôtel Aux tamaris Roscoff
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