How To_ DIY Engine Coolant

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How To: DIY Engine Coolant Change - IWSTI.com: Subaru WRX STI F...
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06-25-2008,
08:59 AM
STI
Sibb
Grassroots
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Car: Blue
07 WRX STI
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#1
DIY Engine Coolant Change
Scope:
The following process is loosely based on the 07 STI Owner's Manual and is intended to help
you replace your Engine Coolant as part of your 30K service.
Disclaimer:
When in doubt, have a qualified technician or maintenance shop perform your engine coolant
change. The following procedure contains guidelines for changing your engine coolant and
may not accurately reflect your particular car's coolant system. Read your Owner's Manual
first when performing an Engine Coolant change.
Safety:
Engine Coolant or Radiator Fluid becomes hot when your car's engine operates. The radiator
system becomes pressurized and can release hot fluid or vapor when a cap is removed. Be
cautious and let your system cool down sufficiently before removing any caps and/or plugs.
Your engine bay has many hot surfaces. Allow the components in your engine bay to cool off
sufficiently before performing work to avoid getting burned. Wear proper safety glasses and
clothing. If engine coolant spills on part of the exhaust, wipe it off as it has the potential to
smoke and catch fire. There are fans located against your radiator tank that are used for
cooling purposes. Don't allow any loose articles or clothing to get near the fans since they
could become entangled. Last of all, engine coolant is toxic. Do not allow any pets or young
children near the vehicle when performing an engine coolant change.
Disposal:
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Antifreeze/Coolant is toxic and should be recycled, reused, or disposed of properly. If you are
in luck, a local shop (or dealership) will allow you to pour your waste antifreeze/coolant into
one of their bins. Automotive stores like Autozone or Advanced Auto do not have recycle bins
for antifreeze/coolant. If you have difficulty locating a recycle facility, you will need to
research Waste Management Utilities in your city/county. The first link below is to an EPA
page that provides information on antifreeze/coolant recycling. The second link shows an
example of a waste management facility.
1. Antifreeze | Municipal Solid Waste (MSW) | US EPA
2. City of Winston-Salem, NC :: Hazardous Waste Disposal
What to Wear:
Gloves
Long Sleeve Shirt
Safety Glasses
Tools:
Low profile jack
4 jack stands
Head lamp or flashlight
10mm Socket (optional for removing air intake scoop for additional access)
12mm Socket (for removing the Undercover)
19mm Socket (for removing the wheel lugnuts)
Torque wrench (3/8" drive recommended)
Rags
Funnel
Wide drain container (8 Liter capacity)
Thin tipped flat head screw driver
Small needle nose pliers (optional)
14,15, or 16mm socket with 1/8"-1/4" slot ground out of the end (optional)
Note: The socket in the picture was ground in a machine shop. It's only desired if you have
trouble loosening the drain plug.
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Materials:
Distilled Water (1 Gallon)
Subaru Genuine Engine Coolant Conditioner (1 x 125 mL bottle) <--- thanks to sujak for the
picture
Subaru Genuine Engine Coolant (3 x 3.75 Liter bottles 50/50 Antifreeze/Water Solution) -or(2 x 3.75 Liter bottles Undiluted Antifreeze Solution)
Note: There is a subtle difference between the diluted and undiluted bottles so know what
you are buying. Either will work, though. Just make sure you have the correct mixture of
coolant and distilled water (50/50 recommended) before you pour it into the system. The 07
STI Coolant system holds approximately 7.7 liters (8.1 US quarts). Caution: The new
premixed coolant is a blue color. The dealership and others on here have recently informed
me that the old green coolant should not be mixed with the new blue coolant.
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Preparation:
1. Park on a level surface and turn off the engine.
2. Secure the car from rolling by engaging the parking brake and putting the car in reverse
after the engine is turned off. Use wheel chocks as necessary.
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3. Loosen the front wheel lugnuts just enough that you can remove the front wheels once the
car is lifted up.
4. Put the car up level on all 4 jack stands. Reference the following link: http://www.iwsti.com
/forums/how-inst...ackstands.html. It will not hurt to put additional support under the car in
the unlikely event that the car's weight should shift or a jack stand or support member should
fail. Whenever possible, do not place your body directly under the car when it is elevated on
jack stands. It's also a good idea to have someone else nearby when working under a vehicle.
5. Remove the front wheels.
6. Pop the engine hood and allow the engine to cool for at least 1 hour.
System Overview:
The "Drain Plug" sits at the bottom of the radiator on the passenger side. It sits directly over
the subframe and is identified by its wingnut shape.
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The "Filler Tank" is a small black plastic tank located over the engine between the air intake
filter and the intercooler. It has a *tabbed* radiator cap. The Filler Tank is the highest point
of the system.
The "Filler Neck" refers to the top portion of the Filler Tank just below the cap.
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The "Radiator" is a large rectangular tank that sits vertically across the front of your engine
bay. It has a *round* radiator cap. You do not need to remove the *round* cap at all
during this process.
The "Reservoir Tank" is a white plastic tank that sits just to the right of the Radiator. It has a
yellow plastic cap that reads "Coolant".
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Last edited by STI Sibb; 05-14-2009 at 05:51 PM.
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06-25-2008,
09:05 AM
STI
Sibb
Grassroots
STI Racer
Car: Blue
07 WRX STI
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#2
Re: DIY Engine Coolant Change
Drain Procedure:
1. Complete all preparation steps listed in the original post. If the engine bay is hot, wait
longer before starting.
2. Remove the Undercover. Note the 3 bolts (12mm) at the front and 2 bolts (12mm) at the
back. Also note the 2 push pin clips on the left and the 2 push pin clips on the right. Remove
the bolts first. There is a trick to the push pin clips. Insert the thin tipped flat head screw
driver into the clip's face groove and gently twist to pry the pin open. Don't be forceful with
these plastic clips. See the second picture.
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3. Locate the drain plug. Reference the picture in the first post. If you look in front of the
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passenger's front wheel well, you will find the drain plug sitting out of sight just over the
metal subframe at the bottom of the radiator. You can reach it with your left hand without
getting under the vehicle. Alternatively, you can remove the air intake scoop by removing 2
bolts at the front (10mm). Look down towards the bottom of the radiator's left side. The
second picture shows the drain plug from above.
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4. Place a wide 8 Liter capacity container on the floor below the drain plug and subframe.
5. Open the *tabbed* radiator cap on the Filler Tank. It is located just above the engine.
Removing this cap will help the coolant drain more quickly once the drain plug is loosened.
Check that the cap has a rubber gasket under the cap lip and near the tip.
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6. Loosen the drain plug (turning counterclockwise / lefty-loosey on the 07 STI) to allow the
coolant to drain. Turn the plug out about 5 to 6 turns to get a decent amount of flow. The
plug can be difficult to turn by hand and it is located in an awkward position. A small pair of
pliers can assist you to turn it from underneath the car. If you have a lot of difficulty turning
it, take a 14, 15, or 16mm standard socket to a machine shop and have a buddy grind out a
1/8" to 1/4" slot in it that is 1/2" deep. Remove the air intake scoop and if your arms are
skinny enough, you can reach to the bottom of the radiator and make small turns on the drain
plug. The engine coolant runs out very slowly and can take 30 minutes or more to finish
draining. I've attached a picture of the draining process to illustrate why you would want a
wide container. I also tried running tubes. Do yourself a favor and buy a wide drain container.
You can do steps 7, 8, & 9 while the coolant drains.
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7. Pull the small rubber line completely out of the Reservoir Tank. Nothing holds it inside the
tank. If there is coolant in the tube, allow it to slowly pour out into the Reservoir Tank to
avoid spilling it.
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8. Remove the Reservoir Tank, empty it, and rinse it out with Distilled Water. There is a
plastic clip that holds it in on the right hand side. Push this clip back with your finger (thumb
location in the picture) and insert a thin tipped flat headed screw driver behind the white
plastic . Twist the screwdriver to gently pry the tank free. When you pull the tank out, note
the location of the "Full" line.
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9. Reinstall the Reservoir Tank. Make sure that the knob at the bottom of the tank seats in
the bracket hole it was removed from. Also, make sure that the top plastic clip holds it in
place. Reinstall the rubber tubing through the hole at the top. The tubing should be pushed
towards the bottom of the Reservoir Tank.
10. Tighten the drain plug and wipe the area clean.
11. Reinstall the Under Cover. Put the 4 Push Pins in place first. There are 2 recessed tabs
located just behind the 3 bolt locations at the front. To bolt the Undercover back to the car,
you need to make sure the tabs in these 2 recesses are pushed over top of the metal shelf
under the car. I used the back of my ratchet to pry them into position. If you don't do this, the
Undercover will hang low and not allow you to reinstall the front middle bolt as there will be a
1" gap between the Undercover and threaded bolt hole. Reinstall the 3 front bolts and the 2
rear bolts.
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12. Reinstall the Front Wheels by hand tightening the lugnuts in a star pattern. Make sure
there is no slop by trying to wiggle the wheel.
13. Lower the vehicle off of the jack stands.
14. Tighten the Front Wheel lugnuts to the proper torque specifications. Always tighten in a
star pattern.
***If you removed the air intake scoop, make sure you put it back before running
the vehicle.***
Your STI Engine does not have any Coolant in it now for all practical purposes. Do
not go on a joy ride as your engine will immediately overheat and make some nasty
noises before it makes 1 loud and expensive clank.
Fill Procedure:
1. Place a funnel in the Filler Tank where the *tabbed* cap was removed.
2. Slowly add a 50/50 mix of Engine Coolant and Distilled Water to the Filler Tank through
the funnel. Adding too quickly can force air into the system which will make the whole process
take a little longer. We have to burp the air out of the system later. (If you have the 50/50
premixed solution, get to pouring. If you have the undiluted solution of Engine Coolant, mix
it 50/50 with Distilled Water before adding it. Double check your bottles as it is easy for the
Subaru dealership to accidently sell you one of each.) When the fluid starts backing out of the
funnel, stop pouring and allow the fluid level to drop slightly into the Filler Neck. Note: Your
Service Manual (not the Owner's Manual) will have a chart for different mixtures of coolant.
If you want to run a more diluted solution, do so at your own risk. 50/50 will keep your
coolant from freezing anywhere but the arctic circle.
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3. Shake the Engine Coolant "Conditioner" well and pour some into the Filler Neck of the
Filler Tank. Do not worry about pouring it all in the first time. You will get several chances to
pour the rest in. Do not worry if it looks like shark chum with bits of chalk thrown in. These
are all items that will dissolve in the system and help protect it for the next 30K. Thanks to
sujak for the picture.
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4. Reinstall the *tabbed* radiator cap. It should screw on and stop. Double check that it is
tight.
5. Remove the yellow cap on the Reservoir Tank and add Engine Coolant up to the "Full" line
which is located halfway down inside the tank. Do not fill the Reservoir Tank to the top. Close
the yellow cap.
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6. Start the car and monitor the coolant temperature from the driver's seat (The picture
below shows an 07 STI's normal operating temperature). By idling the car, you are allowing
the car's engine to heat up. There is a thermostat that will kick the cooling system on and pull
the engine coolant away from the Filler Tank and Reservoir Tank you just filled. You will
know that the system is on when the Radiator fans kick on. Let the car run a bit longer after
the fans kick off, but make sure to turn the engine off before the needle gets above the 2nd
mark on the Temperature Gauge in the dash. If it goes much higher, it can cause the engine
to overheat which would be bad. Note: If you are in a garage, make sure that the garage door
is open to allow the Carbon Monoxide fumes to vent out.
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7. With the engine turned off, let the car cool off for at least 10 minutes to allow the radiator
system to lose some pressure and heat. I recommend waiting 20 minutes the first time and
reduce that time as you gain some comfort level with what you are doing.
8. Remove the *tabbed* radiator cap, but be careful. If you feel hot vapor or pressure when
removing it, let it sit for a few more minutes and then remove it. Part of the reason you are
wearing safety glasses, gloves, and a long sleeve shirt is so that a release of hot vapor will be
less likely to burn you if you did not let the system cool long enough. When you finally
remove the cap, you will hear some gurgling noises because air is trying to exit the system at
the Filler Tank while Engine Coolant is trying to make its way to the bottom of the Engine
and Radiator. This is referred to as burping the system or bleeding the air out.
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9. Slowly add more of the Engine Coolant to the Filler Tank just like before. Also add the
Engine Coolant Conditioner to the Filler Neck once the Filler Tank is full. You will also need to
refill the Reservoir Tank to the "Full" line with Engine Coolant. All of these levels have
dropped since the fans kicked on. Replace all of the caps and make sure they are tight.
10. Turn the car engine on just like before and run it again. Monitor the temperature gauge
on the dash. In a nutshell, you repeat this process over and over until the fluid levels no
longer drop (It took me 10 times). As more and more engine coolant enters the system,
idling the engine will not be sufficient to raise the temperature high enough to kick the
radiator system on. At this point you will need to start revving the engine between 2,000 to
3,000 rpm to get the radiator fans to cut on. Let off the gas pedal often to check if the
radiator fans have turned on. Once they have turned on, let the car idle for just a bit.
Remember to turn the engine off before you go above the 2nd mark on the temperature
gauge in the dash since you do not want to overheat the engine. Note: You can turn your A/C
on to kick the cooling system on sooner.
That's all I've got for now. I'll update somewhat based on feedback. Good Luck!!!
Last edited by STI Sibb; 07-25-2008 at 04:46 PM.
06-25-2008, 11:32 AM
ytsohptwhere
The Stig
#3
Finish quick! I wanna do this on my 04! Thanks in advance for making this
5/22/2009 4:19 PM
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Car: WR Blue 04 WRX STi
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06-26-2008, 11:19 PM
amg destroyer
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#4
Great write-up so far. Can't wait to see the final edition
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06-27-2008, 11:24 PM
STI Sibb
Grassroots STI Racer
Car: Blue 07 WRX STI
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Location: Winston Salem, NC
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#5
Thanks guys. The first iteration is ready. Take a look and let me know if you
encounter any problems. Let us know if there are alternative methods. I
know of a few, but it'd be better for someone to comment that has actually
performed those methods.
06-27-2008, 11:34 PM
sujak
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Location: Illinois
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#6
this is a very good write-up!
Here's a picture of the subaru coolant, you can add it to the DIY it wont go
anywhere from my server
http://members.brimd.com/sujak/STi/S...ingSysCond.jpg
5/22/2009 4:19 PM
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You can buy it from your local dealership for about $3
(Subarugenuineparts.com doesn't have it
)
Make sure you SHAKE WELL before you pour it in
__________________
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Helix Catted DP: Greddy SP2: Walbro 255: BoostKit Snorkel Delete
262.2whp 286.7wtq @ 18psi
Above means nothing, catless + goodies = ftw
06-27-2008, 11:38 PM
East Bay STi
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06-27-2008, 11:41 PM
#7
Nice write up, I actually had to use a pump to empty out my reservoir and
just used some distilled water to clean it out, pumped out the water.
-Gio
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#8
5/22/2009 4:19 PM
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amg destroyer
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Good work...so complete
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AMG's Garage cleaning/part-out thread!!
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06-27-2008, 11:41 PM
#9
STI Sibb
Fav Mod: Soap
Posts: 588
Trader Rating: (0)
Thanks sujak...will do.
06-28-2008, 11:50 AM
#10
STI Sibb
Quote:
Fav Mod: Soap
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Originally Posted by East Bay STi
Nice write up, I actually had to use a pump to empty out my reservoir
and just used some distilled water to clean it out, pumped out the
water.
-Gio
What type of pump did you use and what were the connections?
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5/22/2009 4:19 PM

How To_ DIY Engine Coolant

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