festival THINGYAN
Transcription
festival THINGYAN
Colonial pictures by Nay Myo Say THINGYAN festival Traditional lifestyle of Myanmar Buddhists Taking steps to Capture the Moment APRIL2013 Contents 14 20 27 32 36 40 50 54 60 64 66 Swing and a miss By James McMissem Yangon night life By Bill O'Toole 69 Taking steps to capture the moment By Sorcha Hellyer & Gabriele Villa Amelia Earhart and her short stay in Myanmar By Simon Whiting Japanese food in Yangon By Douglas Long The architectural wonder of Yangon 20 By Aye Sapay Phyu Artist's work of creation By Nay Myo Say Traditional lifestyle of Myanmar Buddhists By Mi Tut Escaping into the wild at Sane Let Tin By Maw Maw San Shopaholic By James Htike Ngapali - sand, sea and so much more By Maw Maw San 69 Love of nature By Pye Aye Nyein (Cloud 9), Sein Sein Gu 74 Festivals between February and July By Maw Maw San 76 Thingyan By Simon Whiting Regulars 4 80 84 85 86 88 90 Air Mandalay's destinations Air Mandalay's offices Route map Travel tips Air Mandalay's passenger sales agents Useful numbers The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 40 50 Colonial pictures by Nay Myo Say THINGYAN festival 36 Traditional lifestyle of Myanmar Buddhists Taking steps to Capture the Moment APRIL2013 management Chief Executive Officer Kyaw Kyaw editorial Chief Editor Kyaw Myo Editor Simon Whiting Advertising Thinn Sandar Thuzar Win Naung 54 Publishing License Than Thar Htoo Photographers Douglas Long Design & Layout Kyaw Khaing Genius Printing Shwe Zin Printing (0368) Distribution Air Mandalay All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form by any means including electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of the publisher. AIR MANDALAY LIMITED 66 64 146, Dhammazedi Road, Bahan Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Tel: +95-1 525 488, 501 520 Fax: +95-1 525 937 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.airmandalay.com 5 www.airmandalay.com Mingalabar! About Us Air Mandalay Limited is a joint venture company that was incorporated on 6th October 1994 to operate as Myanmar’s first joint venture airline and support the country’s tourism industry. The airline, based in Yangon, has since established itself as a domestic carrier of high standards which operates to all of Myanmar’s main tourist destinations and commercial hubs. The airline also offers air charter services to destinations both within the country and in the region. In September 2010 Air Mandalay added one ATR-72 to its fleet and refurbished its existing aircraft. To reflect this step forward for the company the aircraft livery was also updated to a more modern design. Due to the growth of tourism and economic development in Myanmar, air transportation has become an important contributor to both the country’s economic growth and its infrastructure development. The country is looking to position itself as a major tourism destination capable of handling an increasing number of foreign visitors and Air Mandalay industry will play a vital role in achieving this. Corporate Identity Air Mandalay’s logo depicts the mythological royal Hintha bird, which symbolises loyalty, respect for traditional values, stability, good luck and prosperity. The colours in our logo are also significant. Yellow represents the numerous golden pagodas found throughout Myanmar, which is often called the Golden Land. Burgundy signifies the colour of our commitment to provide safe, reliable and comfortable flights for our passengers. 6 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Air Mandalay's Aircraft Maintenance Organisation has European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA) Part 145 approval. Our Fleet Air Mandalay’s modern fleet currently comprises of two ATR-72-212s and one ATR 42-320, which are all made by EADS of France and Alenia of Italy and powered by Canadian-built Pratt & Whitney engines. Air Mandalay’s fleet is maintained by a maintenance organization which is approved by the European Aviation Safety Agency (EASA). All aircraft in Air Mandalay’s fleet and the maintenance facility are inspected once a year by the Direction Generale de l'Aviation Civile (DGAC) of France. Our Crew In selecting and training our multilingual cabin crew, we aim to provide high levels of service consistent with Myanmar's gentle traditions. Our pilots are trained at ATR facilities and undergo recurrency training every six months. Engineers are trained at both ATR and Pratt & Whitney facilities to ensure the ATR aircraft operated by Air Mandalay are always well maintained. i n te r v ie w THE TEAM OF Air Mandalay I want passengers to have a memorable and comfortable flying experience with us and I always try my best to satisfy them. Nyaung Oo airport and while it was in the air, he told me that he had forgotten a bag with valuable items at the airport. Since we could not make a phone call from the plane, I reported the issue to the captain and requested his help." Ma Ei Zarchi Maung Cabin Staff Supervisor Ma Ei Zarchi Maung has been with Air Mandalay since 2004. As cabin staff supervisor she aims to provide the best safety, comfort and satisfaction to all passengers. “I want passengers to have a memorable and comfortable flying experience with us and I always try my best to satisfy them. I also feel that our passengers are our family members and never assume that my job ends when we land." 8 “I have had many memorable experiences with passengers and received lots of letters of appreciation. Once I helped a foreign passenger who was flying from Nyaung Oo to Yangon on the Nyaung Oo-Mandalay-Yangon trip to recover his bag. After the plane had taken off from The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine “The captain informed the airport control tower and the staff there replied that they had found the bag. However, the passenger was on a connecting flight and needed to catch the next leg within hours. So when we got to Yangon Airport, I took him to our traffic station staff and searched for the next flight to carry his bag back in time. In the end he got his bag back and caught the next flight,” Ma Ei Zarchi Maung said. Air Mandalay's cabin crew undergo yearly training in first aid, safety and security training, in-flight service and emergency drills, she said. Ma Ei Zarchi Maung said she has also attended a course in France to teach other trainees. Cabin crew must arrive 45 minutes before flight departure and receive a briefing from the captain about the weather forecast and possible problems they might encounter during the day. After the briefing, attendants board the airplane and plan for catering and check emergency equipment so that they will be ready if needed. During flying hours, crew work hard to make everybody comfortable and provide extra care to children, the elderly or sick. Ma Aye Aye Mon Traffic Station Manager, Yangon “The duty of traffic station staff starts when the check-in counters for the first flight opens and only ends when all passengers have arrived at their destinations. Our main duties are passenger and customer service,” said Ma Aye Aye Mon, a traffic station manager who has been working in the department since January 1996. “Air Mandalay is in the business of air Safety, reliability, and comfort are hallmarks of our operation and our employees are dedicated to realising these objectives. to lend a hand to our passengers. For example, one time a passenger had a connecting flight to Bangkok with MAI but our return flight to Yangon was slightly delayed. So we prepared our Air Mandalay mini-bus to immediately escort him to the international passenger terminal after landing. When the plane landed, we made sure that he did not have to wait for his luggage. He arrived at the MAI counter on time. The smile on his face and the joy I felt when I shook his hand made me very satisfied and fulfilled. It was very memorable." “Safety, reliability and comfort are hallmarks of our operation and our employees are dedicated to realising these objectives. It is towards this end that we have developed and trained our employees. So to have a safe and smooth operation, our traffic staff is well trained and attend many courses at the Department of Civil Aviation each year. We also have staff who have attended IATA courses in Singapore,” said Ma Aye Aye Mon. transporation. We are committed to offering our clients and passengers a quality service and value for money,” she said. “Although passenger service is our main duty,it is just one aspect of our job. We are also responsible for ground handling and cooperating with cabin crew, flight operations and other related departments,”she said. “No two duty days are the same. There is always something exciting and memorable happening at the airport everyday. We are always willing 9 www.airmandalay.com Following the briefing we inspect the airplane and fill out the checklists. If the airplane is airworthy then we accept it from the technical service manager. Captain Lu Maw “Before every flight, we acquire all possible data concerning weather conditions on flight paths and landing destinations, and conduct pre-flight briefings with cabin crews. We go over possible problems and what actions to take in case of an emergency. “Following the briefing we inspect the airplane and fill out the checklists. If the airplane is airworthy then we accept it from the technical service manager,” said Captain Lu Maw, a training manager in Air Mandalay’s operations department. He said there are three main factors that can cause accidents: human, machine and media. “In order to prevent human error, Air Mandalay sends its pilots to the Asian ATR training centre in Bangkok for two days of 10 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine training every six months. All training exercises are approved by Myanmar's DCA. We also follow the guidelines set by the DCA and attend training sessions the department sets up,” Captain Lu Maw said. He said it is also crucial for pilots to be in good health, and its pilots undergo medical checkups every six months. Captain Lu Maw is in his late 30s . He became a pilot in 1998 and obtained his Airline Transport Pilot Licence in 2003. He joined Air Mandalay in 2005 and became a first officer in 2007, a captain in 2009 and then the training manager in 2011 after completing the respective ATR approved training courses abroad. I N T E RV I E W I was the responsible person and had to make decisions on site to get the project finished on time. U Zaw Maung Maung Min Technical Services Manager "In July 2010, I was in Exeter, UK for the delivery of an aircraft. From there I moved to Norwich to have the plane repainted with new livery and perform other maintenance requirements. Every single day started with problems and challenges at work. I was the person responsible for making decisions on site to get the project finished on time. "There were a lot of details and everyone was waiting on my decisions. It was stressful because I was working in an unfamiliar environment. It was also difficult to organise individuals from different companies to reach our goals." "But after a month we were able to finish all the work and we were finally able to fly back from the UK to home with my team. I considered it to be my biggest achievement since I started working with Air Mandalay. Coincidently, the date I arrived in Yangon was my 10th anniversary of joining Air Mandalay. 11 www.airmandalay.com Corporate Social Responsibility Air Mandalay believes in helping community-based projects. One such example is the building of schools: "We would like to thank Air Mandalay for providing free air tickets for this project. The Melissa Cosgrove Children's Foundation (MCCF) has been working on grassroots projects for 10 years now and in-kind donations are of great help to small charities because it means the money we raise is able to go direct to the projects. Due to Air Mandalay's sponsorship, the founder of MCCF, Tracy Cosgrove, was able to visit every few weeks and watch the progress, which helped the project to be completed quickly. If Air Mandalay had not provided free flights we might still be waiting for it to be finished. Thank you Air Mandalay for your continued support ." The Melissa Cosgrove Children's Foundation 12 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 13 golfi n g How they have managed to get golf balls to float – and still behave the same off the club and in the air – is a mystery but it works. Swing and a miss By James McMissem 14 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort I wish I could love the game of golf but the long stretches of walking interrupted by brief and repeated bouts of repeat violent and – in my case at least – uncoordinated action usually leave me fuming at the end of a round. And by “round” I mean three or four holes, after which time the toys have all been thrown from the pram and birds have been scattered by abrupt torrents of blue language. Nope, I’m with Samuel Langhorne Clemens, better known by his penname of Mark Twain, who said in 1948: “Golf is a good walk spoiled.” However, I do enjoy the two halves of the game in isolation: hitting the balls as hard as I can, and walking. But the two in combination have never worked for me. With traffic in Yangon getting heavier every day I do plenty of walking since it’s the fastest way to get around the downtown area but I do sometimes miss smashing golf balls around, which is highly therapeutic. The solution is the driving range, and the closest to my house is the facility at the eastern side of Mya Kyun Thar. As a bonus, you get the pleasure of whacking balls into the lake, where they are scooped up all day and into the night by teams of workers in row boats. How they have managed to get golf balls to float – and still behave the same off the club and in the air – is a mystery but it works. The Mya Kyun Thar range lets you play at night until about 8:30, although a 1,000 kyats lighting fee is charged. Different rates are charged for balls depending on the time of the day but recently a friend and I hit 150 balls each at a cost of 35 kyats each, with an additional one-off lighting fee of 1,000 kyats, for a total of 11,500 kyats. We also had to pay 3,000 kyats for each of the two clubs we loaned, bring the total cost to about 17,500 kyats or about US$20.50, for nearly two hours of entertainment. 15 www.airmandalay.com Driving ranges have markers out on the course to show the distance that balls are being hit to, presumably with the intention of helping the golfers better understand their games and abilities but there’s also an element of showmanship. There’s always a hint of guarded jealousy on the faces of other golfers as they watch one guy regularly blast balls 180 metres down the range like a well-oiled siege engine. Similarly, everybody enjoys the miss-hits that either plop pathetically 10 metres into a lake or shoot at crazy angles across the range. On my first visit the only time I hit a green was when I skimmed a drive over the surface of the lake and it cannoned into the edge of a green and spat off sideways. There are small greens – raised wooden platforms with green carpet on top – at 75, 100, 125 and 150 metres on the range, giving golfers a visible and entertaining target to aim for. On my first visit the only time I hit one was when I skimmed a drive over the surface of the lake and it cannoned into the edge of a green and spat off sideways. But on the second visit I managed to land two shots on greens, while my colleague managed to land three, and the number of ridiculous miss-hits, including my “airies” – swings that connected with nothing but air, were significantly reduced. And the best thing about a driving range: a bad shot is quickly forgotten about and you don’t need to go traipsing off into the next fairway in search of the ball. Instead, you reach for the next ball, place it on the tee and swing away. The rental clubs at the Mya Kyun Thar range are new and good quality. I have also used the driving range at the Okkala Golf Club in South Okkalappa Township. This large range is in the middle of suburbia and is surrounded by extremely high nets to stop errant balls from escaping the facility. The far end of the range – more than 320 metres – is a train line. Overall, it’s a less glamorous range than the one at Mya Kyun Thar but also far more realistic: A long shot at the lake simply 16 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine plops into the water and stops, while a similar effort at Okkala bounces along the ground – giving a far more realistic impression of the value of a drive. And while the costs for each ball are marginally higher (from memory), it only costs 1,000 or 1,500 kyats to hire clubs. In any case, an hour or two of practice costs no more than 8,000 kyats a person. And the only walking you need do is from the car to your tee-off spot – Mark Twain would be pleased. Yangon has plenty of golf courses, and most of them have practice facilities within them. These include the: And the only walking you need do is from the car to your tee-off spot – Mark Twain would be pleased. 18 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine - Yangon Golf Resort (YCDC) on Thiri Mingalar Road in Insein Township - Defence Golf Club on Kha Yae Pin Road in Mingalardon Township; - Han Golf Master at Airport Road in Mayangone Township - Mya Kan Tha Golf Course on Thiri Mingalar Road, Insein Township; - Myanmar Golf Club on Pyay Road in Mayangone Township - National Golf Range on Lay Daung Kan Road in Thingangyun Township - Okkala Golf Course on Waiza Yan Tar Road in South Okkalappa Township - Pun Hlaing Golf Club at the Pun Hlaing Golf Estate in Hlaing Tharyar Township - Royal Mingalardon Golf and Country Club on Main Road (No 3) at Mingalardon Golf City in Mingalardon Township and - Thanlyin Golf Club on the YangonThanlyin Road in Thanlyin Township. yangon Night life Fuji By Bill O'Toole Cafe 365 5 Alan Pya Pagoda St, Dagon Township More restaurant than bar, but pleasant all the same, Cafe 365 is located beneath the Thamada hotel on Alan Pya Pagoda Road in Dagon Township. The ambiance is relaxed and conducive to polite conversation. The lighting is low and the chairs are soft and comfortable. Cafe 365 is an excellent spot for couples looking for a quiet night or even just a short break from their other adventures. 20 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine The standard options of Myanmar and Tiger Beer are available, but more adventurous drinkers can sample unique concoctions like the rum coffee. Cafe 365 is an excellent spot for couples looking for a quiet night or even just a short break from their other adventures 19th Street 19 Street in Latha Township th Located in the heart of Chinatown, 19th street is a pedestrian street home to untold dozens of beer stations. The avenue stays lively (but not raucous) until late into the night, making it an ideal spot for a low-key evening out on the town. For tourists, it is particularly worth checking out for the unique, old fashioned buildings lining the street. While strolling up and down the avenue to see the sights is not easy, it gives a traveller a unique sense of travelling back in time, making it well worth the effort. Beer is cheap, and so are the cocktails if you know where to look (big shout out to Ko Sann restaurant and their 800-kyat mojitos), and almost every spot serves variety of fantastic barbecue food. The author's personal favourites include grilled okra and hard-boiled quail eggs. De Bar University Avence Street, Kamayut Township For those enjoying a late night downtown, De Bar almost wins by default for being one of the few classy establishments open past 12am. But De Bar does not rest on its laurels, the staff goes out of its 21 www.airmandalay.com 22 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Many revellers start their night at Escape before moving to Liberal, an evening I can heartily recommend. way to create a relaxed enjoyable atmosphere. Catering to the previously untapped market of Yangon cinephiles, De Bar has its walls lined with posters and paintings of classic films like Metropolis and Casablanca. It also has a sound system that plays soundtracks of Quentin Tarantino movies almost exclusively. In the past year, De Bar has also stepped up its offerings to the local foreigners. Inquire at the bar about the establishment's new, monthly quiz night. The beer is a fairly standard 2,000 kyats , but there are more high-end options such various colours of Johnny Walker. Add the friendly, relaxed staff, and De Bar is an ideal place to socialise. Escape Gastropub 31 D Kan Yeiktha Street, Bahan Township A recent addition to Yangon's high-end social scene, Escape exists somewhere in the borderlands of a club and a restaurant. First and foremost, the bar sells cans of Guinness, which in my book is a major plus (remember gang, it takes two and a half minutes to correctly pour a Guinness.) The ground level houses the bar as well as several flat-screen TVs which can usually be counted on to show Euro-cup football. Upstairs one finds a more quiet relaxed ambiance, with plush couches that often leave patrons almost completely reclined in their seats (in a good way). Left of the main entrance is an outdoor seating area of about six tables over-looking a coi-fish pond. The tables are surrounded by metal swings for seating. While this choice initially seems strange, having a gentle rock while you drink is actually quite pleasant. Cafe Liberal 31 C Kan Yeiktha Street, Bahan Township Cafe Liberal is a stripped down dance hall located directly to the right of Escape. When I say “stripped down,” I mean in the sense of having no fog machines, ceiling mirrors, or any of the other frills often found in the clubs of Yangon. This choice of style gives the club a fun, unpretentious feel, which is probably why it's so popular with many Myanmar university students. Drinks are slightly expensive, around 3,000 kyats for a beer and 40,000 kyats for some bottles of whiskey. However, the kitchen keeps the free snacks coming, and with a group of friends to split the bill it can still be a fun and affordable night out. Many revellers start their night at Escape before moving to Liberal, an evening I can heartily recommend. 23 www.airmandalay.com The Street The Street The Street Space Bar 126 , Kabar Aye Pagoda Road, Bahan Township Yangon's answer to Miami. Come to Space Bar if you're looking for the classic clubbing experience. Beers cost around 4,000 kyats, with prices for various multicoloured cocktails going up from there. The party goes on until about 2am most weekend nights. The house DJ keeps the music pumping, but reasonably so. It's still possible to hold a conversation. While many Yangon dance floors are not used to their full potential, Space Bar has a floor where it is more than possible to bust a move. Locals are friendly, and generally seem delighted to have foreigners in their midst. If you need a break from the dancing or just want a more private place to enjoy your cocktail, there are several seating areas off to the side with comfortable couches and speedy service. The Street 20 Pa Le Road, Bahan Township 24 Lest you think “The Street” is just a catchy name, the proprietors have fully committed to the concept. The walls are festooned with street signs from across the globe and the bottom floor is painted to resemble a highway. Another hot spot for the young, affluent, and hip of Yangon, The Street is located in the Mya Yeik Nyo Hotel, and The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine offers outdoor seating on both the ground and mezzanine levels. While the indoor areas are nice enough, getting to sit outside with the cool breeze is really what makes the experience. Given this, The Street a much better option for the winter months as opposed to the wet season. Both drinks and food are reasonably priced (large beers around 2,000 kyats, French fries around 4,000 kyats). Good Year Pub 44A Aung Mingalar Street (at the corner of Aung Bar Lay Street), Tamwe Township This hole-in-the-wall will never be anyone's choice for the most stylish or trendy spot in Yangon but, for an authentic and off-the-beaten path look at Yangon's nightlife, try the Good Year pub on Aung Mingalar Street, near Yuzana Plaza. The bar has all the Myanmar standards (Myanmar Lager, Tiger Beer, Dagon Stout, etc...) for around 600 kyats per draught. The set-up is as basic as basic can be. Eight tables in the plain room inside and two outside. A TV in the back most often shows American films. While the bar itself does not serve food, street vendors often come in with various fried goods to sell. More adventurous drinkers can sample the house whiskey, a neon green concoction served out of a water cooler in the corner. 26 Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort Garnering Global Interest Myanmar’s astonishing transformation in recent months means that it is attracting an increasing amount of attention from travellers and foreign investors. However getting the right message across to the international community at large is always a challenge. Image Diplomacy, founded by Sorcha Hellyer and Gabriele Villa is a company specialising in nation-branding campaigns. With over 13 years of on field experience in international communications, preparing special promotional features for a wide range of global media, they were delighted to provide their expertise in order to provide extensive coverage of the Golden Land in the UK’s biggest selling quality newspaper at the end of last year. Their inaugural Myanmar feature was published in The Daily Telegraph on 17 December 2012. Reaching around 1.6 million readers - of whom a large percentage are highly educated business leaders, company directors, investors, politicians and officials - it was very well received. The aim of iD’s work is to assist with the repositioning the brands of countries by insightful editorial which alter the target audience's perceptions of the destination and promote both tourism and investment into the country being covered. continuing their efforts with another feature in The Daily Telegraph in late February and two more planned in the lead up to the World Economic Forum on East Asia which will be held in June this year in Nay Pyi Taw. Key issues to be addressed in their articles come about as a result of extensive research and iD's interviews and meetings with top business leaders and intend to highlight the impressive offerings afforded by Myanmar’s changing environment. In addition to this excellent coverage, iD is partnering with local companies and entities to further promote the country with a more extensive nation-branding campaign. The following article is an excerpt from the inaugural feature published by iD. If you would like to receive the full features published in The Daily Telegraph in December 2012 and February 2013 or know more about how you can be a part of their important initiatives please contact them by email myanmar@imagediplomacy. com, visit www.imagediplomacy.com or call on 09 425 314 893. The authors of the articles, Gabriele Villa and Sorcha Hellyer, have been collaborating with government entities and the private sector in Myanmar since September 2012 and have been Sorcha Hellyer & Gabriele Villa 27 www.airmandalay.com T aki n g S teps to capture the moment By Sorcha Hellyer & Gabriele Villa “This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about.” 28 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Monks strolling on Ngwe Saung beach T here is a lot you don’t know - can’t know - about Myanmar until you travel there. This is one of its most beguiling aspects. With what now seems like prophetic sincerity, it is probably the reason why the great British storyteller Rudyard Kipling noted, “This is Burma and it will be quite unlike any land you know about.” Indeed, he expressed this many years after his travels to the country that was then known as Burma. Sir Cliff Richard doubtless Goodwin from Leeds Metropolitan University. We are also preparing a Tourism Master Plan with the aid of the Norwegian government and the ADB to ensure a clear strategy for the future.” The aim is for the master plan to cover the whole country not just certain pockets of it. Unsurprisingly, typical tourism draws - like mystical, legendary cities Yangon, Bagan and Mandalay coupled with Inle Lake, Ngwe Saung Rural reflections in Bagan discovered much the same thing on his recent 10-day tour. It is by all accounts one of the most mesmerising countries in the world. Breathtakingly beautiful rural landscapes and deliciously chaotic urban areas are populated by people so sweet-natured, respectful and welcoming, it is hard to believe this is a nation that until recently had been isolated from the rest of the world for five long decades. Myanmar is now enjoying a renaissance, the kind of which was only dreamed about two short years ago. Hope - as well as evidence of a new reality in the making - is a powerful reconciler. This is important to the hospitality industry because sweeping reform strategies, brought in by President Thein Sein, prompted Aung San Suu Kyi to encourage international visitors to come to Myanmar and to promote “responsible tourism” to benefit the populace. A holistic approach to opening up the tourism sector, ensuring the country’s natural and cultural heritage remains intact, will be critical to its success. The government grasped the mantle, as Htay Aung, Minister of Hotels & Tourism explains, “We have been working on a Responsible Tourism Policy Framework with renowned Professor Harold Beach and Ngapali Beach - are always on itineraries. However, “Communitybased tourism projects in remote and rural areas also need to be included,” Htay Aung elucidates. Future tourism strategies will encourage visitors to go off the beaten track and fully explore Myanmar’s rural charm benefitting both local economies and eco-tourists who wish to enjoy nature and be engaged with the Myanmar people. Prepare to fall in love - your heart will be captured by rustic charm infused with smiles as broad as the Bay of Bengal Exotic and awe-inspiring, the astonishing natural beauty of Myanmar makes it THE bucket list destination that many have dreamed of visiting for decades. What could be more enthralling than a luxury river trip on the Orient Express’ Road to Mandalay or ballooning over the thousands of ancient pagodas in Bagan? It is a blessing for visitors and locals alike that the country’s tourism revival is now assured. Europeans, once discouraged from travelling to sample its 29 www.airmandalay.com delights, are now flocking to soak up the phenomenal cultural heritage and genuine cordiality that has been preserved by the nation’s seclusion. “Myanmar is one of the largest countries in Southeast Asia and has a wealth of diverse tourism offerings,” explains Htay Aung, “We have many historical monuments - from 1,000-year old temples to splendid colonial buildings. We have beautiful unspoilt beaches, picturesque lakes and snowcapped mountains. The different hill tribes in the north represent a myriad of cultures. Actually we have over 100 national races - all of whom are very colourful, hospitable, warm and welcoming.” Myanmar, although admittedly starting from a low base, is hotly tipped to be one of the world’s fastest growing destinations. “Tourist numbers grew 30% in 2011 to nearly 400,000, while in 2012 they exceeded the 1m mark.” There has been a significant rise in all segments - business and MICE, package tourism and independent travel,” emphasises Htay Aung. In fact, from 2008-2011 tourism income virtually doubled from $165m to $319m. The same period showed a 100% jump in arrivals and average visitor expenditure per day also increased from $95 to $120 - pointing to a lucrative investment sector for international hospitality entities. In order to inform and facilitate this, the Ministry and the Myanmar Tourism Federation (MTF) teamed up with Sphere Conferences to launch their inaugural 3-day Myanmar Hospitality and Tourism Conference in February 2013. The objective is to address many important topics including demonstrating how an investment friendly climate is being created and how foreign players can partner with locals. As MTF’s Chairman, Yan Win explains, “Our aim is not only to boost the tourism sector but to take the country’s tourism development to a whole new level.” The nation certainly has a golden opportunity to learn from the successes and failures of its neighbours in order to nurture a brand of tourism that is both inclusive and not exploitative. Not content with burgeoning statistics, the government is also committed to systematic expansion. “We are in the age of infancy in terms of development but the discovery stage has taken place. Now the growth stage is underway. Of course, stagnancy is a risk so sustainability is key to our success. We need to develop our infrastructure, ICT capacity and tourism facilities in order to meet the needs and expectations of increased visitor numbers,” explains the Minister. Also crucial will be the uptake of a newly implemented Bachelor degree in Tourism which, in hand with the current hospitality and tourism training institutions, will equip the sector with qualified staff. However, further investment in hospitality and tourism management schools and vocational centres is being strongly invited so that Call to Capitalise on Culture R ecognising the true value of heritage and the lineage of a nation - from the customs of its people, traditions, culinary delights, dance, music, arts, archaeology and architecture - is often lost in the fervour to embrace modernity. As Myanmar emerges and assimilates with the international community, it is at a crucial juncture in its history. Preserving its incredibly rich tapestry of cultural threads as well as its deeply intrinsic, intangible yet authentic energy will be vital. So too will the nation’s ability to prioritise protecting its tangible assets; from pristine beaches 30 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine along its 3,000km-stretch of coastline andtraditional hilltop villages, to ancient Buddhist temples in theirthousands and the grandeurof British colonial buildings. Caught in something of a time-trap, Myanmar has been mercifully spared the kind of rampant urban development and modernisation to which most Asian nations have succumbed. This leaves it in the enviable position of being able to capitalise on its heritage. Striking a balance is difficult but as Minister of Culture Aye MyintKyu explicates, “We need to open the country to the rest of the world in order to offer better socio-economic conditions to our people and improve their quality of life. Tourism - especially cultural tourism - can have a positive impact on our society and the economy as a whole but it is important that we remain authentic.” 2 tou r ism segments. Among them there are epitomes of colonial elegance, brimming 2: Tattooing ceremony with local teak like The (Chin State) Strand and The Governor’s 3: Traditional dance Residence. In top tourism (Shan State) spots such as Bagan and Inle Lake there is more emphasis on indigenous style hotels and these are equally charming. However, maintaining standards, upgrading current structures and encouraging investors to participate in growing the sector is proving vital. “In June 2012 we became a fully-fledged member of the World Tourism Organisation but we realise we must do more to improve our image,” Htay Aung humbly states, “We need a star quality rating of the hotels and hospitality services that will be recognised throughout the ASEAN as we become a seamless region in 2015.” Photo captions 1: Dat Taw Gyaing cave (Mandalay) 1 major tourist hotspots have on-site training for human resource development. Aside from an on target annual influx in excess of 1m tourists, Myanmar will also play host to major international events such as the World Economic Forum East Asia and the Southeast Asian Games in 2013, the Chairmanship of the Association of South-East Asian Nations (ASEAN) in 2014 and the ASEAN Tourism Fair in 2015. As even present demand outstrips supply, travellers would be wise to book in advance, not least because there is something overwhelmingly delightful about savouring Myanmar before the hordes arrive. Certainly as visitor interest increases so too does the need to augment the room inventory. The high cost of land should not put off hoteliers keen to enter what many perceive to be a market exploding with opportunities. Existing hotels, particularly in Yangon, are reporting vastly improved occupancy rates with a surge in all Thankfully culture is gaining recognition in Asia as a critical benefit in the advantage of soft power and the attainment of reputation globally. That said sourcing the funding and technical expertise locally- for the maintenance and restoration of Myanmar’s many treasures will be a challenge. This is why the government is inviting foreign partners to participate in the process. It is already experiencing significant international interest in the renovation of fabulous, yet dilapidated,colonial buildings in Yangon but so much more assistance is required to reclaim Myanmar’s former glory. As the nation works towards all these goals there is one great certainty; if Myanmar can capitalise on the genuineness of its people, its alluring sites and the immensely rewarding experience visiting the country offers, it can become a shining example to the rest of the world. And it will gain a solid standing as a truly authentic destination where, as the Minister quotes from Shakespeare’s The Merchant of Venice, “All that glitters is not gold…but Myanmar is!” 3 To discover how you can be a protagonist in this exciting new chapter of Myanmar’s story please contact the Ministry of Culture on +95 67 408032 or [email protected] 31 www.airmandalay.com flashback F amous female aviator Amelia Earhart passed through Myanmar (then Burma) in 1937 on her illfated, 29,000-mile roundthe-world flight less than three weeks before she, her navigator and aircraft disappeared forever. Ms Earhart spent just a couple of days in the country, flying from Calcutta (Kolkata) in India to Akyab (Sittwe) on June 18. “Amelia Earhart started another leg of her round-the-world flight today after arriving from Calcutta, but bad weather forced her to return to Akyab,” the Rangoon Times newspaper reported. previous day. Then we had tried unsuccessfully to sneak underneath the monsoon. Those tactics again failing, this time we pulled up to 8,000 feet to be sure of missing the mountain ridges, and barged through. After 2 hours of flying blind in soupy atmosphere we let down and the bright green plains beside the Irrawaddy River smiled up at us. Then we dodged about for 50 miles,” Ms Earhart wrote in her notes. She first landed her twin-motored monoplane at 12:34pm after a 400-mile flight across the Bay of Bengal, and took off immediately in an effort to reach Bangkok, Siam The Rangoon Times wrote: “Amelia Earhart reached Yangon today after a 300mile flight from Amelia Earhart and her short stay in Myanmar Amelia Earhart exiting her plane through the cockpit hatch upon her arrival, Rangoon, Burma, ca. 1937 By Simon Whiting “She first landed her twin-motored monoplane at 12:34pm after a 400-mile flight across the Bay of Bengal, and took off immediately in an effort to reach Bangkok, Siam. She was back in Akyab within 2hours. The flyer said she expects to start again for Bangkok early Saturday if the weather is favourable,” the paper wrote. The following day Ms Earhart departed Akyab, attempting to reach Siam (Bangkok) but actually finishing in Rangoon (Yangon). 32 “The next day, June 19, we started again from Akyab, with the hope of getting through to Bangkok, Siam, monsoons permitting. But they did not permit, so the flight ended at Rangoon, only 400 miles away. This short hop produced even worse weather than that which turned us back on the The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Large guardian Chinthe statues loom over a person in a cart pulled by oxen, Rangoon, Burma, ca. 1930s Safety, Reliability & Comfort loaded, custom-built Lockheed Model 10E Electra at midnight. The intended destination was Howland Island, a flat sliver of land more than 2,550 miles away. They never made it, and the disappearance has become legend. The last confirmed position of the pair was a report the Nukumanu Islands, about 800 miles into the flight. However, the United States Coast Guard cutter Itasca was on station at Howland, having been assigned to communicate with Earhart's Lockheed Electra 10E and guide them to the island once they arrived in the vicinity. Ms Amelia Earhart Akyab on her leisurely globe-circling journey. She landed her monoplane at 6:35am Greenwich time after a trip of 2 hours 53 minutes. Her next destination was Bangkok, Siam, 400 miles southeast of Rangoon,” the newspaper reported. The first sight at Rangoon was the sun touching the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. This great structure stands on a considerable prominence and could be seen for miles while the city was still but a shadow on the horizon, its covering of pure gold a burnished beacon for wayfarers of the air” And although Ms Earhart was only in the city for a day, she still had time to record her impressions of the country’s best-known attraction. “The first sight at Rangoon was the sun touching the Shwe Dagon Pagoda. This great structure stands on a considerable prominence and could be seen for miles while the city was still but a shadow on the horizon, its covering of pure gold a burnished beacon for wayfarers of the air,” she wrote in her notes. “Shortly after our landing, rain poured down so heavily that it was hazardous to take off for Bangkok, so we decided to stay where we were for a time at least.” At midnight on July 2, Ms Earhart and copilot Fred Noonan took off from Lae, in Papua New Guinea in their heavily Amelia Earhart conversing with the editor of the Rangoon Times, Rangoon, Burma, ca. 1937 33 www.airmandalay.com Some 8 hours into the flight Ms Earhart radioed Lae for the last time. And at 19:30, Itasca received the following: “KHAQQ [the call sign for Earhart's Lockheed Electra 10E] calling Itasca. We must be on you but cannot see you ... gas is running low..." An hour later, the last confirmed message from Earhart came in: "We are in a line position of 157- 337. Will The US Navy soon joined the search and spent three days hunting for clues of the plane and Earhart in the vicinity of Howland Island to no avail. On July 6, the captain of the US battleship Colorado received orders from the Commandant, Fourteenth Naval District to take over all naval Myanmar airport ground crew preparing for Amelia Earhart’s arrival, Rangoon, Burma, ca. 1937 India Meteorological Department weather forecast for Allahabad to Rangoon, June 17, 1937 A week after the disappearance, naval aircraft from the Colorado flew over several islands in the group including Gardner Island, which had reportedly been uninhabited for more 40 years report on 6,210 kilocycles. Wait, listen on 6,210 kilocycles. We are running North and South." From about 1 hour after Earhart's last recorded message, the Itasca commenced a search for the plane, beginning with areas north and west of Howland Island and based on initial assumptions about transmissions from the aircraft. Factual Information Sheets (supply of gasoline, oil changes, arrival and departure times, and statistics and facts) on airports and air strips at the following landing sites, n.d. - Rangoon and coastguard units to coordinate search efforts, and later directed search efforts at the Phoenix Islands south of Howland Island. A week after the disappearance, naval aircraft from the Colorado flew over several islands in the group including Gardner Island, which had reportedly been uninhabited for more 40 years. The crew reported that there had been signs of “recent habitation” at the island but no response from anybody living at the site could be elicited, and the plane returned to the Colorado. The official search efforts lasted until July 19 and cost the US government about US$4 million, making it the most expensive and intensive in US history to that point. 34 The Electra undergoing refueling, Rangoon, Burma, ca. 1937 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 35 www.airmandalay.com R E S T A U R A N T I n his classic, elegant essay on aesthetics titled “In Praise of Shadows”, well-known Japanese author Junichiro Tanizaki wrote: “It has been said of Japanese food that it is a cuisine to be looked at rather than eaten. I would go further and say that it is to be meditated upon …” The excellent presentation begins with the restaurant’s tastefully minimalist exterior, which boasts a simple design that gives a strong impression of cleanliness. This effect is carried through to the interior: spotless hardwood floors, tasteful and comfortable tables and chairs, and atmospheric lighting diffused through paper lanterns. The main dining room is big but the tables are separated by room dividers decorated with traditional handmade Well-prepared Japanese food certainly is pleasing to contemplate at length, but I would amend Tanizaki’s maxim further to say that it is a cuisine to be looked at, meditated upon and eaten. Of course Tanizaki was not actually suggesting that we avoid consuming Japanese food, but he did intend to emphasise the fact that Japanese chefs and restaurateurs tend to put a premium on the way in which the cuisine is presented, visually and aesthetically. A great place to see this proclivity put into action is Ajishin restaurant in Yangon, one of the city’s finest choices for top-end Japanese cuisine. Opened in 2011, it is located on a quiet lane behind Sedona Hotel. Japanese food in Yangon By Douglas Long Ajishin Japanese Restaurant 18 B, Thukhawadi Lane Yankin township, Yangon Tel (95-1) 562-701, 293-640 [email protected] 36 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort paper, providing a degree of privacy for guests. There are also 3 private rooms available: 2 with Japanese-style, floor-level seating (each with a seating capacity of 8), and 1 with a Westernstyle table and chairs (with a seating capacity of 6). The harmonious atmosphere will only serve to whet the appetite of the guests, and there is plenty of reason to indulge. Japanese food is not only delicious, but also widely known for its health benefits. For example sashimi, A warm welcome awaits The restaurant has a tastefully minimalist exterior... this effect is carried through to the interior: spotless hardwood floors, tasteful and comfortable tables and chairs, and atmospheric lighting diffused through paper lanterns or thinly sliced raw fish, is loaded with protein, omega-3 fats, selenium, niacin, vitamins B6 and B12, phosphorous, magnesium, and various other useful minerals and nutrients. Each bite seems to add months, if not years, to your life. Ajishin's Exterior The menu at Ajishin features a wide array of fresh, expertly prepared Japanese food, including appetisers, salads, yakiniku, sashimi, sushi and noodles. Favourites from the sashimi menu include buri (adult yellowtail; US$23) and the 3-item sashimi set ($23), which included maguroakami (top loin of blue fin tuna), tako (octopus) and salmon. To sample a nice variety of sushi, the sakura set ($18) is the ideal choice. For those who believe that no Japanese meal would be complete without 37 www.airmandalay.com sake – warm or cold, according to one’s taste – Ajishin is ready to help you indulge with a wide range of rice wine choices. Those who prefer cocktails, wine or beer also have plenty from which to choose. The harmonious atmosphere will only serve to whet the appetite of the guests, and there is plenty of reason to indulge The main dining room A big part of Ajishin restaurant’s appeal is the impeccable service. There is always a well-trained member of the waiting staff standing by, ready to offer help when needed. The menus are promptly delivered to the table, the soy sauce bowls are quickly filled and generous helpings of wasabi come with the appropriate food orders. This is all part of the Ajishin experience: cuisine that is nice to look at and meditate upon, but even nicer to eat, delivered to your table with professionalism and a smile. 38 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 39 www.airmandalay.com a r chitectu r e A block north of the Secretariat is St Mary's Cathedral, which occupies the corner of Bo Aung Kyaw and Bogyoke Aung San roads and which celebrated its centenary in 2011 Y angon, Myanmar’s last capital before the State Peace and Development Council built Nay Pyi Taw as the administrative capital, was established by King Alaung Phaya in about 1755. The king was the founder of Myanmar’s last dynasty before the British colonised the country in 1885. The crowded city that tourists find today was, under British rule (when it was known as Rangoon) a planned habitation famous throughout the region as a garden city in the early 20th century. Victorian-style buildings lined the city's streets, which were designed with a chessboard plan by the British, and many have survived the ravages of time and retained their glory. Colonial architecture is visible in large numbers of religious buildings, administrative offices, cinemas and residential properties in Yangon, especially close to the downtown area, which was the heart of British Rangoon. the wonder Aarchitectural of yangon By Aye Sapay Phyu 40 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Indian House Synagogue 41 www.airmandalay.com 42 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Pegu Club The British showed its power, then known as the empire on which the sun never set, through the grand architecture on display at its administrative offices that far outweighed the needs of the buildings. Evidence of this can be seen today at the Secretariat, between Anawrahta and Mahabandoola streets, and at the High Court on Pansodan Street. Old Pegu Club The Pegu Club building at the corner of Sagawar Lane and Pyay Road (in a compound behind the bus stop) was a gentlemen's club under British reign and only Europeans were allowed to join The earliest administrative offices in Yangon included the Secretariat (also called the Ministers' Office after independence) and the circular Insein prison in Insein township. Work on the Secretariat’s southern section, which faces Mahabandoola Street, 43 www.airmandalay.com began in 1889 and finished in 1892. However, the whole U-shaped construction in the 16-acre compound was only finished in 1905. It served as the administration centre of colonised Burma until 1948, when Myanmar got its independence. The importance of the Secretariat to Myanmar’s history extends far beyond its role as the centre of British power: Independence leader Bogyoke Aung San and eight patriots were assassinated in the building on July 19, 1947. It was also the place where the British announced Burma's independence and reset the national flag on January 4,1948. The first parliament called after independence was also convened at the building. Secretariat 44 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Nearby is St Paul’s English High School, on Anawrahta Road in Botahtaung township, which has become No 6 Basic Education High school. Its architecture pays respect to the Secretariat at the opposite side of the road. A block north of the Secretariat is St Mary's Cathedral, which occupies the corner of Bo Aung Kyaw and Bogyoke Aung San roads and celebrated its centenary in 2011. The cathedral, built with a glorious twin-bell tower design, was penned by a Dutch architect. It was damaged during Cyclone Nargis in 2008 but swiftly repaired by well-wishers. Every afternoon at about 4:30 its bells toll out across the city. Another attraction of the city is the Anglican Cathedral of Holy Trinity at the corner of Bogyoke Aung San and Shwdagon Pagoda roads. B R Pearn wrote in the History of Rangoon, published by American Baptist Mission Press in 1939, that the building was brought into use on November 18 in 1894. The building’s architect was a Mr Hoyne-Fox. Secretariat 45 www.airmandalay.com The cathedral features a unique design of a bell tower with five spires acting as the main structure of the church. Sadly, although the red brick and yellow ochre ornamented colonial buildings in the downtown area are appreciated for their art and grand designs by most people, some buildings with important historical value were neglected for decades and silently decayed in the tropical climate. Thousands of passengers board or disembark buses at a bus stop that stands outside the Pegu Club on Pyay Road in Dagon township but know nothing of the history behind the building that gives its name to the bus stop. The Pegu Club building at the corner of Sagawar Lane and Pyay Road (in a compound Armenian Church A voucher from Rowe & Co department store from 1957. The company was opened in the building at No. 416, Mahabandoola Road in 1910. It is one of Yangon City Development Committee's protected buildings. 46 A De Souza medical company advertisement showing its building as seen in The Guardian Magazine in 1961. The building is still located at No.465-469 Mahabandoola Road in Pabedan Township. The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine a r chit E ctu r e Armenian Church behind the bus stop) was a gentlemen's club under British reign and only Europeans were allowed to join. A weekly gathering, which became known as the Friday Club, was regarded as the unofficial government house because British administrators gathered there to share their opinions on the country's affairs. English Nobel laureate Rudyard Kipling (1865-1936) wrote of the Pegu Club in his travel letters From Sea to Sea that “The Pegu Club seemed to be full of men on their way up or down, and the conversation was but an echo of the murmur of conquest far away to the north.” Tanglin Club in Singapore and the Royal Selangor Club in Malaysia. But the Pegu Club’s golden age did not return after independence, and while some of the club’s cocktails can be ordered in bars around the world you cannot buy them at the club in Yangon. The early days of the Pegu Club are as famous as the Architects admire the Pegu Club for its extensive use of An advertisement for Ideal Nursing Home and Ideal Trading House Co Ltd at No. 608, Merchant Street. The extension at the top of the building was not included in the original design of the building. Thein Gyi Zay, block (A) was part of United Traders Corporation trademark from 1949. The building was replaced with Thein Gyi Zay, block (C). 47 www.airmandalay.com teak in the two-storey building. However, these days the club is in urgent need of repair. Luckily a few examples of the city’s wooden colonial buildings, such as the Museum of Bogyoke Aung San in Bahan township, the Governor's Residence, Gallery 65 in Dagon township and the House of Memories restaurant in Kamaryut Township have had the necessary love and funding lavished on them and stand in good order. During the colonial era, foreigners from around the world flocked to Yangon and many brought unique architectural ideas with them, some of which have survived. These include large parts of Chinatown in Latha Township, the Armenian Church at the corner of Merchant and Bo Aung Kyaw streets and the Jewish Moseah Yeshau An advertisement for Sein Brothers Rangoon store and Japanesemade ceramic plates bearing the logo of Sein Bros Rangoon. The building on Pansodan Street is now used as an office by the Internal Revenue Department. 48 (Photos and data were supplied by architect U Aung Soe Myint) The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine a r chit E ctu r e Little Sister Synagogue on 26th Street – all of which exist as links back to the city’s multicultural and religiously diverse past. But it is the British buildings that dominate, especially along Strand Road, where the magnificent Strand Hotel, General Post Office, Port Authority, Customs House and New Law Court compete for space with newly built, garishly coloured condominiums. It was only in the late colonial period that buildings became less about style and more about substance. Examples of these include Yangon University, where Bogyoke Aung San and former United Nations Secretary General U Thant and many other patriots were alumni. Another case in point is the Judson Chapel in the main campus of Yangon University, which was established in 1920, and honours the American Baptist missionary who came to Little Sister During the colonial era, foreigners from around the world flocked to Yangon and many brought unique architectural ideas with them, some of which have survived Burma in the 19th century and compiled the first BurmeseEnglish dictionary. Another less grandiose colonial building is Gandhi Hall at the corner of Bo Aung Kyaw and Merchant Streets, which has not been used for 2 years and is an example of kind of the late colonial period which led to the trend of minimalism. On the other hand, City Hall, which was opened in 1936, is a unique mixture of European structure and Myanmar traditional decoration because strong nationalism developed in that period and anti-colonial sentiment grew stronger. Yangon City Development Committee maintains a heritage list of colonial buildings that includes a total of 189 protected sites but many others properties have already been swept away and redeveloped. However, the Yangon Heritage Trust, led by Thant Myint U, the grandson of UN Secretary General U Thant, is working with the government and other stakeholders to find ways to restore as many of the city’s heritage buildings and protect them for future generations. Historical information for many of the buildings mentioned in this article was supplied by architect U Aung Soe Myint. 49 www.airmandalay.com c r eati v it y I held an exhibition called “Sketches from the West” in 2010 and lately I have been thinking of holding a “Sketches from the East” show. I found that the buildings in the downtown area are beautiful and so I started drawing them. I was then struck by the idea that I should sketch all the historic buildings as they are so that they are a record for the future. I have drawn some, and will continue with my work Artist Nay Myo Say Artist’s work of creation 50 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Secretariat Safety, Reliability & Comfort 51 www.airmandalay.com Aunty Suu's House Lokanat Galleries 52 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Port Authority and Yangon Division Court 53 www.airmandalay.com lifest y le Traditional lifestyle of Myanmar Buddhists By Mi Tut Many Bamar people, who are also called the ahnyarthu / ahnyarthar, are mostly clustered in the central areas, including Yangon, Mandalay, Bago, Sagaing and Magwe regions 54 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort O fficial statistics say there are 135 ethnic groups living within Myanmar’s borders, with the Bamar (or ethnically Burmese) people accounting for the majority. Many Bamar people, who are also called the ahnyarthu / ahnyarthar, are mostly clustered in the central areas, including Yangon, Mandalay, Bago, Sagaing and Magway regions. They are famous for their work ethic and honesty, and have a brown complexion that is the subject of gentle teasing in folk songs. Many still lead lives that compare with those of previous generations. For many traditional, rural Buddhists, life begins and ends with a visit from a Buddhist monk. When a baby is born, the father runs to village monastery and asks the head monk to provide a name for the child and a prediction for the child’s future. In city areas, it’s common for Buddhist families to delay naming children until the parents have visited an astrologer. 55 www.airmandalay.com Monks teach students the basics, including the alphabet, reading and writing, math and some Buddhist prayers When children reach 5 or 6 years of age, parents send them to monasteries to begin their free education – parents need to supply books and pencils. Monks teach students the basics, including the alphabet, reading and writing, math and some Buddhist prayers. But at the same time, children are expected to help their parents at home with chores and paid work. 56 Most people in the countryside make their living through farming or by collecting palm juice and making palm sugar from toddy sap. In villages, people who own farm land and or plots thick with toddy palms are considered wealthy, and these landowners hire other locals to work the land. Farming landowners The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine are referred to as the taung-thu-gyi and workers are called sa-yin-ngar, while toddy palm plantation owners are called hta-taw paing shin and the workers are htan-thet-ta mar. Workers’ children help their parents by bringing lunch out into the fields and searching for grass for cows to feed on, as well as assisting to harvest rice paddy and other crops when required. Myanmar is a highly fertile land and farmers grow mainly rice, but also peanut, sesame, cotton and assorted fruits and vegetables. Children of htan-tet-ta-mar also collect the pots filled with toddy sap (htan-yei) that their fathers or older relatives have A family shares a meal the traditional way lifest y le left at the bases of trees that have been tapped. The children then bring the pots back to their mothers, who empty the toddy juice into a huge pan and cook it over a fire. The sap is then pushed out into a flat circular shape and allowed to cool in the air, after which it is ready to eat. In many traditional farming villages, the main roads become playgrounds for children, who entertain themselves with simple games of htote-see-toe (an outdoor game played between 2 teams of girls, with 1 team defending a marked-off area while the other tries to pass through it without being tagged) and shwe-sun-nyo (a game of tag where 1 player tries to catch the player at the far end of a long line). By about 7 years of age, Buddhist children have traditionally undergone one of two major ceremonies: boys join the monkhood for at least a week (and sometimes much longer), while girls will have their ears pierced. The day for the celebration is chosen in consultation with the head monk. Rich parents hold their own celebrations, while less wealthy families hold group events to share costs. Children of poor families and orphans are also invited to take part in such events, which brings merit to the hosts. The games need almost no props, except for chalk, and include plenty of physical activity, meaning the children live highly active lives compared with those living in the cities. Most people in the At 10 or 11 years countryside make their of age children living through farming or living in rural by collecting palm juice and towns are faced with the choice making palm sugar from toddy of continuing sap their education or leaving school to help their parents. By that age the basic education available at monastic schools has finished, and children who wish to continue studying have little choice but to travel to larger villages or towns, which can be a big expense for poor families. Rural life can be tough – and many people work year-round, taking only a short break for Thingyan (Myanmar New Year or water festival) in midApril or if a pagoda festival is held 57 www.airmandalay.com nearby. During festivals, everybody takes a holiday and enjoys the event, although everybody works extra hard in the weeks beforehand. Each festival has its own unique customs, particular snacks and local foods, which are shared with visitors. Households prepare snacks about a week before the festival begins using palm sugar, rice powder, peanut, oil, sesame seed and other foodstuffs. Boys join the monkhood for at least a week (and sometimes much longer), while girls will have their ears pierced 58 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine They pound all the main ingredients using amaung (a simple pestle and mortar contraption used for polishing rice and making powder). Popular snacks include fried pancakes and fried vegetables with rice powder. Even the poorest households prepare what they can to welcome visitors, A special procession to the monastery to make donations lifest y le Yangon where the strong influence of Western culture is evident on the streets in what people wear. In many towns it’s uncommon to see adults wearing anything other than traditional attire – blouses and longyis (long sarong-style wraparound dresses) for women, and longyis and shirts for men. However, during festivals, young people take the opportunity to don jeans, brightly coloured t-shirts and jackets while they hang out with friends. Buddhism plays a huge role in traditional villages – and people visit local pagodas or monasteries on waxing and waning days of the moon to pray. Head monks also provide guidance to villagers on day-to-day matters and are sometimes called on to resolve conflicts. And when a villager is dying, family members ask monks to come and pray for the person in order to earn merit and enjoy a good life in their next incarnation. A villager prepares feed for the livestock even if it is just fried peanut, pickled tea leaf salad or green tea. Most traditional festivals are held over two or three days and include live performances and puppet shows, as well as stalls selling a huge variety of consumer goods as well as clothing and toys which are always popular. Wealthy rural villages hire professional performers to entertain at the festivals, while less wealthy villages hire a trainer in the weeks before the event to teach them how to act on stage – and then perform the plays themselves. Interestingly, the actors who wish to take part are expected to provide funding for the show, with lead actors required to pay the most. Fashion in rural villages is a huge change from the cities, especially Most traditional festivals are held over two or three days and include live performances and puppet shows 59 www.airmandalay.com w il d life Escaping into the The entrance to Sane Le Tin (Sane Let Tin) By Maw Maw San Sane Let Tin, which opened its doors and 22acre compound to visitors in 2000, is famously a great place to unwind 60 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine F orest covered green mountain, emerald paddy fields and acre after acre of rubber plantation flash past the window as you cross into Mon State. The air is clean and free of Yangon’s smog, with only a hint of wood smoke drifting on the breeze. My husband, 3-year-old daughter and myself are just doing the 2-hour drive from our home in Yangon to Sane Let Tin resort, to give ourselves a break from city life and relax. We visit the restaurant to try the jungle chicken curry with rice – a specialty in the area, with servings of fresh fruit and a vegetable salad. Hotel swimming pool After driving 104 miles, we see a signboard for Sane Let Tin on the left side of the road and take the turn. Inside we find a line of 1-storey buildings, with a large parking lot at the far left and a zoo and garden to the right. A restaurant and lounge sit in the middle. Sane Let Tin, which opened its doors and 22acre compound to visitors in 2000, is famously a great place to unwind. Our first stop after the drive is the restaurant, where we stop to buy some fruit juice to quench our thirst. The fruit that goes into the juices comes directly from Sane Let Tin’s orchards, and the menu says that no chemicals are used in the growing process. Coconut orchard 62 A walkway in the middle of the restaurant leads directly into the zoo and plantation, and it quickly proves impossible to stop our daughter from running in to have a look. The entrance fee of 500 kyats buys visitors a chance to enjoy a little wonderland. Inside there are many rare and beautiful animals, including leopards, otters, hornbills, chameleons and ostriches, which are kept in separate huts, while swans occupy a nearby lake. The zoo also The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine includes a playground and rest area. After a tour of the zoo, our hungry stomachs remind us that we have not eaten since we left home, and we visit the restaurant to try the jungle chicken curry with rice – a specialty in the area, with a vegetable salad and servings of fresh fruit. Families can easily sit down under a shady tree and enjoy the serenity, while the children play, although the horse cart proves too strong an attraction for our daughter, who resists my attempts to drag her away. Finally I give up and leave my capable husband in charge, while I enter the orchard and plantation. The long entrance is covered by a huge vine that has large gourds dangling here and there. It’s beautiful to see so many fruit trees in one location, including coconut, jackfruit and mangoes. Many of the trees are so low to the ground that even small children can reach up and pluck the fruit – and there are so many varieties on show that there is always something in season. I’m so inspired by the greenery that I w il d life Staff from the restaurant decide to try to grow my own plantation – starting with a jasmine plant, which I buy from the nursery for 3,500 kyats, less than US$5. By now my daughter has caught up with me and has fallen in love with the flower pots so she asks me to buy one of everything. Sane Let Tin Resort With only a small verandah available at our house I’m unable to fulfill her request but I’m glad that she asked and clearly has a new interest in nature. After a rest we make our way to the elephant hut and find 2 females. It’s time for the elephants to take a rest, so my daughter misses the chance to take a ride but she is thrilled to see the giant animals happy. We are told that Sane Let Tin also has a lake filled with fish that is fed by a small stream, but unfortunately for my husband, a keen fisherman, it’s closed because there is construction going on nearby. After an enjoyable day at Sane Let Tin, we drive a further 15 miles to Kyaihtiyo, the Golden Rock, where we spend 1 night taking in one of the country’s best-known tourist destinations. But as we drive past Sane Let Tin the following day on our way home I can’t help but feel that most tourists have no idea what they’re missing when they motor straight to the Golden Rock – and ignore the quaint resort on the way. 63 www.airmandalay.com shoppi n g Shopaholic By James Htike The hot months of summer have arrived in Myanmar and shopaholic is looking for a new wardrobe of 100% cotton clothes to combat the high temperatures and cloying humidity. Luckily there are many fine places in Yangon to buy fashionable cotton clothes with styling that represents the country’s diverse ethnic groups. The styles are not only unique but cheap too, and are sure to leave a lasting memory of a trip to the Golden Land. Prices start from 10,000 kyats (about US$13) a piece but rise depending on the design and quality of the fabric used. The following shops are a good start if you want to find wonderful, clothes made in Myanmar to wear during your holiday and take home as a reminder of the country or to give as gifts for friends or family. Yoeyoelay Yoeyoelay is found within Bogyoke Market, and stocks designs and fabrics sourced from Chin and Kachin states. The shop itself is within the main hall inside the market and is fairly easy to find. Yoeyoelay stocks designs and styes from Chin State (like Yoemarmay below) but the shops use different designers and groups, so the styles on show within them are different, although somewtimes only very subtly. The main colours used by Chin weavers, for instance, are black, brown and red, which are chosen because the dyes are easily accessed. Location: Room 129, Central Hall, Bogyoke Aung San market Yoeyarmay 64 Yoeyarmay specialises in clothing that uses designs and fabric sourced from Chin State – one of the more challenging of Myanmar’s potential destinations. The fabric used in the shop is woven by Chin women using traditional looms and designs. The designs are mostly based on horizontal lines, different colours interwoven. The items of clothing are also highly The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort durable and long wearing. Yoeyarmay also sells uncut fabric and shawls alongside its clothing range. The shop is located in Yangon’s Bogyoke Market, which is also sometimes called Scott's Market. Location: Room 72, Shed and Foodstall, Bogyoke Aung San market Shayi Fashion Yoeyarmay specialises in clothing that uses designs and fabric sourced from Chin State – one of the more challenging of Myanmar’s potential destinations Shayi Fashion is owned and managed by a famous female Kachin designer, Sann Bawk Rar. Shayi’s unique fabric is created by highly skilled hand weavers and naturally dyed. The fabric is regularly blended with considerable skill with polyester and other materials to create sophisticated modern outfits. Here female blouses of all styles, trousers, colourful dresses and skirts are available. Shayi was established in 2005 and offers brilliant designs at reasonable mid-range prices. Location: No 45/B, New Yae Tar Shae Street, Bahan township. Kachin Traditional Shop As the name suggests, the Kachin Traditional Shop showcases a range of Kachin-styled clothes using traditionally weaved fabric. The styles are creative and simple – with different coloured horizontal and vertical lines to catch the eye. The shop also has a hand loom called a “Jakhode” for visitors to inspect. Here, blouses in traditional styles and uncut fabrics are also available. Location: Room 13, New East Shed A, Bogyoke Aung San Market 65 www.airmandalay.com Sand, sea and much more... By Maw Maw San E ach year Mandalay's Air Mandalay sends its team to fun destinations to refresh their minds and bodies. This leads to better understanding and cooperation among staff, and we find that people come back from trips looking fresh and being more active and enthusiastic in dealing with customers. This year the team went to Ngapali beach for some relaxation. 66 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 67 www.airmandalay.com Activities available at Ngapali beach Playing beach volleyball Camp fires on the beach; playing guitar Singing songs Snorkelling Kayaking Scuba diving Fishing Sailing Flying kites 68 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine photoessa y love of Nature “What is this life if, full of care We have no time to stand and stare” These are my favourite lines from “Leisure” - a poem written by William Henry Davies. Nowadays we busy ourselves with our daily routines and do not even have time to notice that nature is also around us. To enjoy it we do not necessarily need to go to wildlife parks, the countryside or the jungle. If we just open our eyes we will realise that there is much beauty to be savoured in the streets, parks or gardens near our houses. We just need to take a few moments to appreciate what is going on around us. By Sein Sein Gu 69 www.airmandalay.com 1 Photo by : Sein Sein Gu 2 70 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Photo : Sein Sein Gu 3 A sparrow trying with all his might to build a nest at Kandawgyi park in Yangon Photos by: Sein Sein Gu Leisure What is this life if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare. No time to stand beneath the boughs And stare as long as sheep or cows. No time to see, when woods we pass, Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass. No time to see, in broad daylight, Streams full of stars, like skies at night. No time to turn at Beauty's glance, And watch her feet, how they can dance. No time to wait till her mouth can, Enrich that smile her eyes began. A poor life this is if, full of care, We have no time to stand and stare. 3 William Henry Davies (1871-1940) 72 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine 73 www.airmandalay.com flash back Festivals between February and July By Maw Maw San Htmane pwe (Glutinous rice) February This festival is held on the full moon day of Tabodwe and the days immediately before and after and is celebrated nationwide. During this festival, people make glutinous rice and then offer it first to Lord Buddha and monks before sharing the rest with friends, family and poor people. In the past, people held this festival to fight off the cool weather because the process of making glutinous rice includes lots of physical activity. The snack is mostly made by men, while the women take care of the preparation. In some locations, people hold htamane-making competitions, with prizes awarded to the fastest and most tasty glutinous rice makers. After the competition, the food is distributed to visitors, who waddle away with full bellies. In Yangon, a htamane pwe festival is held at Shwedagon Pagoda every year. Kyaik Khauk Pagoda Festival (February) Kyaik Khauk Pagoda in Yangon’s Thanlyin Township, about 45 minutes by bus from the city, is hosts a separate festival every year at the same time in February as the htamane pwe that draws visitors from near and far. The pagoda sits atop a large hill and the festival takes place at the foot. During the festival, the hill is populated by temporary sheds and stalls selling festival goods. Nearby fields are packed with visitors who come to watch traditional dancers and performers, zat pwe in Myanmar. Many famous traditional dancers and performers host shows at the Kyaik Khauk festival and fight to attract viewers with loud music and huge colourful posters. It is a good chance for locals to see their favourite stars and the shows go on for a good part of the night. There is also a commercial element at play – and many young people take the chance to splash money on their loved one. 74 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Safety, Reliability & Comfort Myanmar Water Festival (April) This festival is also called Myanmar New Year and takes place at the very hottest part of the year – mid-April. The whole of Myanmar effectively shuts down as people of all ages throw water over each other and enjoy a well-deserved holiday. The festival is a literal cleansing of the body and mind and symbolises the washing away of all the mistakes and wrongdoings in the previous year and starting the new year with a fresh body and mind. During the festival, bad language is strongly frowned upon because people believe that the celestial king returns to earth and takes note of all the bad deeds done by people. For Buddhists, it is also a time merit making, where young people show their respect for their elders by washing their heads, and cutting both finger- and toenails. Older people visit monasteries to gain merit by respecting the Sabbath. In most years the festival is held over four days but in some years the festival is extended to five days. Kason Festival (May) A month after Thingyan is another water-related event – the Kason Festival, which is also known as Nyaung yay thune pwe (pouring water at the banyan tree). The festival takes place on the full moon day of Kasone and on that day people of all ages go to pagodas in procession to pour water at the root of the sacred Nyaung pin (bayan tree). The festival means watering the bayan tree and keeping it alive since Kason month (May) is the hottest month of the year. The full moon day of Kason is a day of three-fold significance to Buddhists: It’s the Day the Buddha was born, the day he attained enlightenment and the day he died. People in the whole country perform meritorious deeds and meditate to attain enlightenment; keep Sabbath; visit pagodas and monasteries; and give offerings to monks and nuns on that day. Nayon Festival (June) Tipitaka festival (Sarpyan pwe) is held within Nayon La (July) and it is a nationwide Pariyatti Sasana examinations for Buddhist monks. During this festival, monks of all ages sit for the different levels of exams and the examinations date differ depending on each township and city. Waso Festival (July) Full moon day of Waso is the Dhammasekya Day and it is held in memory of when the Buddha gave his first sermon to five monks. It also marks the beginning of the Buddhist Lent. During this festival people throughout the country pick wild flowers to offer at pagodas, and offer new robes to monks. On the event day, groups of women recite Buddha’s four noble truths at pagodas, while others free fish and birds to gain merit. 75 www.airmandalay.com festi v al Thingyan By Simon Whiting Mid-April is the setting for the nation’s best-loved and most famous festival – Thingyan, or Myanmar New Year. It is held in what is almost always the hottest time of year in Myanmar, regardless of where you are. Even the normally cool hills around former British hill stations such as Pyin Oo Lwin (near Mandalay) and Kalaw in Shan State bake in the intense summer heat, while people living in the major cities have almost nowhere to hide from the repressive heat. Nearly everybody is looking for places and ways to cool off, and the 4-5 day long holiday provides the ideal answer – playing with water, which is why Thingyan is also known as the “water festival”. In addition to its cooling benefits, the New Year holiday offers everybody the opportunity to symbolically wash away any misdeeds from the previous year and start the new year afresh. At the core of Thingyan is a Buddhist interpretation of a slightly grisly Hindu myth that explains the idea of a new year and involves a lost bet, a decapitation and the need for a celestial princess to carry a head too hot to be safely contained on earth. Thingyan, therefore, signifies the changing of hands of that head from one princess to another. Myanmar parents also use a part of the story, that the celestial king returns to earth during Thingyan to record in books the names of those performing good deeds, as well as those doing wrong, to encourage their children to behave. The holiday always begins on 13 April and continues until 16 April, which is when the New Year is actually celebrated. The 4-day event also sees most of the country shut down, with only essential services and tourism businesses still in operation. For people who follow the traditional interpretation, Thingyan is a time to pay respects to elderly members of their family and do things such as washing their feet or hair. Some people also use the holiday as a convenient time to enter monasteries or religious 76 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine schools to meditate for days on end. But for everybody else, the festival is about playing with water and having as much fun as possible. Large wooden stages, called pandals, are set up around water sources in major cities – Kandawgyi and Inya Lakes in Yangon and the moat around the palace in Mandalay – that are equipped with water hoses, stages and sound systems. And within those cities whole fleets of open-top jeeps and trucks are reconfigured to allow people to travel around the city on the back of them. The first day is festivities, 13 April, is generally known as “children’s day” and gives the youngest members of society to play on the streets with water in relative safety. The day can also be considered the lull before the storm. The following day the aforementioned trucks and stages are put to use – giving people platforms to spray water onto passersby and each other. People on the pandals also have the opportunity to dance on the stages while music blasts from the speakers. Many of the biggest pandals compete for the services of musicians and actors to perform on their stages – and it is a very busy time of year for those artists. Pandals are effectively busy ventures, where friends pool funds to buy a permit from municipal authorities, commission carpenters to erect the wooden structure, hire water pumps, hoses, speaker systems and entertainers. The owners sell tickets that can cost up to US$60 for the 3 days to revellers in the hope that they will make a profit. Marketing drives in the lead up to the event can be intense. On the ground only monks and pregnant women are safe from the hoses, buckets and water guns, and it is considered bad form to deny another reveller the chance to pour water on whomever they choose. Traditionally, this has also been used by young people as the ideal opportunity to show affection towards their sweetheart. On the street there is almost no place to hide and sneaky children armed with water pistols lie in wait just about everywhere. And while it is almost always good natured, Whole fleets of open-top jeeps and trucks are reconfigured to allow people to travel around the city on the back them 77 www.airmandalay.com some cunning individuals – usually those travelling on the back of trucks – have stashed ice in their water tanks, giving those on the other end of the drenching a rude surprise. Following a fatal bombing in Yangon during Thingyan a handful of years ago, the authorities have taken a much tougher stance on where pandals can be built. Before, the most busy place in Yangon was Inya Road on the southern edge of Inya Lake, where tens of thousands of revellers were crammed together as a line of trucks and cars crawled down the road and a river of waste water ran along the gutter. These days only a handful of large pandals can be built near Inya Lake on the eastern and westerns sides, giving police a much easier task in controlling the traffic flow. With so many people partying and so many vehicles on the road it’s a sad fact that accidents do happen, with alcohol and excess speed regularly playing key roles in collisions. Until the end of 16 April, there is almost no respite from the celebrations during the daylight hours, although there is a small lull during middle of the day as people eat some lunch and relax before a busy afternoon of partying. And with so much fun to be had during the day, it’s no surprise that night-time activities are generally muted. After cramming so much fun into 3 days it is indeed fortunate that nearly all businesses remain shut for a few more days to give people time to recover before they return to work. Water festival is the ideal way for people to blow off steam and is a unique, joyous celebration of the nation’s culture. On the street there is almost no place to hide and sneaky children armed with water pistols lie in wait just about everywhere. 78 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Pegu Club Cocktail Back when Britain had an empire, the folks whose responsibility it was to run it weren't known for their eagerness to mix with the folks they were lording it over. From Trinidad to Tasmania, Muthaiga (that's in Kenya) to Ootacamund (no, that's not a typo), the traveling Brit could always count on finding safe harbor at the Club, an island of anxious, obsessive compatriots all devoted to maintaining their peculiar, distant customs in a sea of people behaving sensibly. Only the Club members didn't quite see it that way: They were normal; everybody else was somehow deviant. Weird. Among all these far-flung outposts, few were farther flung than Rangoon's Pegu Club, right there at the corner of Prome Road and Newlyn Road, not half a mile from the Parade Ground. That's where the 1920 edition of Murray's Handbook to India, Ceylon and Burma puts it, anyway (amazing what one finds lying around here at the Esquire Institute for Advanced Research in Mixology). Like all of its ilk, the Pegu Club had a bar, and like all such bars, this one had its house cocktail. Unlike the Muthaiga Country Club and the Ootacamund Club, though, the Pegu Club managed to insert its – a delightful and refreshing combination of gin (naturally), lime juice, orange curaçao, and a couple of other thises and thats – into the annals of mixology. As master mixologist Harry Craddock observed in 1930, the Pegu Club Cocktail "has travelled, and is asked for, around the world." We're not sure precisely when it was invented, but it had to be before 1927, when it turns up in Harry MacElhone's Barflies and Cocktails. Epilogue: On March 7, 1942, a hundred years almost to the day after they occupied it, the British abandoned Rangoon in the face of the rapidly advancing Japanese 33rd Infantry Division (they would've held it, see, but curaçao stocks were running dangerously low and the lime situation was perilous...). The British came back in 1945, but the Club was never the same. Ingredients Instructions 2 Shake well with cracked ounces London dry gin 3/4 ounce orange curacao ice, then strain into a chilled 3/4 ounce lime juice cocktail glass. (You can 1 dash Angostura bitters substitute Grand Marnier for 1 dash orange bitters orange curaçao.) Pegu Club Cocktail is available at Inya. 1 Restaurant in Yangon. Destinations YANGON See and Do: • Wander ar ound Shwedagon Pa goda, the 99-metre-ta ll (330 foot) stupa that glo w golden at night • Shop in Bo gyoke Market, the city's prem ier outlet for precious ge m s an d jewellery The commercial centre of Myanmar, Yangon still maintains its colonial charm and features wide, tree-lined avenues, tranquil lakes and gracious turn-of-the-century architecture. The magnificent Shwedagon Pagoda dominates the city skyline, while at street-level Yangon is a paradise for those wanting to hunt out exotic arts and crafts. Of particular interest are the many shops in Bogyoke Market and its many jewellery stores are famous for their rubies, sapphires and jade. At night, the Chinatown district comes alive with its street bazaars and night stalls selling snacks and fresh food. MANDALAY Immortalised by Rudyard Kipling, Mandalay was established in 1857 in accordance with an ancient Buddhist prophecy. It was the final capital of Myanmar’s Konbaung Dynasty before the country was annexed by the British. The city takes its name from Mandalay Hill and is centred around the walls and moat of the old palace, which was destroyed in the fighting of World War II but was rebuilt in the 1990s. Mandalay is considered a centre of Buddhism in Myanmar and is also home to many of the country’s craft industries. Do: ill, See and dalay H u p Ma n • Walk n 2000 a th e or where m ud d h a o the B years ag esied h p ro ly p reputed t of the blishmen the esta ty ci moder n ar wady the Ayey e • Cross n, hom gu in M River to ed h is n nt unfi to a gia pagoda NYAUNGOO (Bagan) 80 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine See and Do: • Take a pony cart around the thousan ds of ancient temples that dot the Bagan plain • Eat out on "Restaurn at Road", the cen tre of nightlife in th e area One of the most remarkable archaeological sights in Asia – if not the world – the magic of Bagan has brought visitors to Myanmar for nearly 1000 years. Once the centre of a glorious kingdom, Bagan sits on a dusty plain and thousands of ancient temples dot the landscape as far as the eye can see. Today, apart from spectacular sunset views and serene river cruises, Bagan is also the centre of Myanmar’s lacquerware industry. Destinations INLE LAKE (Heho) So near, yet so far. Inle Lake is just a short flight from Yangon but it feels worlds apart from the rest of Myanmar. Located in the cool green highlands of Shan State, it is an area of incredible natural beauty and the lake itself sits a pleasant 870 metres (2900 feet) above sea level. It is famous for the local Intha fishermen who row their boats using their legs, as well as the floating markets and prolific birdlife. In this unique wetland environment, whole villages sit on floating islands perched above the water. Colourful hill tribes inhabit the surrounding fertile valleys and forested mountain tops, and their handwoven silks are aspeciality of the region. Do: See and oatin g se the fl u er P • hnic where et s, et k mar rful u lo co in groups ss sell n al dre traditio local fts nd handicra ncient a re the a lo xp E • In dein of s a p stu cracked Pagoda NGAPALI BEACH (Thandwe) See and Do: • La ze on th e beach, or sip cocktails at yo ur hotel bar as the sun sets over the water • Visit near by fishin g villages in th e early morning to see locals unload their catch Famous for its miles of picture-perfect sandy beaches, brilliant turquoise water and swaying coconut palms, Ngapali is Myanmar’s premier beach destination. Intimate resorts offer visitors the chance to swim, sail, kayak and feast on fresh seafood by candlelight as the sun sinks lazily into the Bay of Bengal. Ngapali is the perfect place to unwind and savour those few precious weeks in Myanmar. MRAUK OO (Sittwe) The Rakhine State capital Sittwe is the gateway to the ancient city of Mrauk Oo, the former centre of a flourishing Rakhine empire. Mrauk Oo reached its peak in the 15th century and today has a completely different atmosphere to Myanmar’s other ancient sites. It also gets far less tourists and is often touted as an interesting alternative to Bagan. Be one of the first to discover these ancient temples, which are accessible from Sittwe by a picturesque boat ride up the surging Kaladan River. Do: See and taun g ire Shit • Adm e n ame os h w Pagoda, "Shrine mean s literally images" 0 0 ,0 0 of the 8 e er up th h nue furt • Conti in Ch River to Lemro women ome to h s, ge villa faces ttooed with ta 81 www.airmandalay.com Destinations TACHILEIK Do: See and rawlin g in the sp ct • Shop h attra ic h w s, market tors si vi ai h ds of T hun dre each day Known as the gateway to the Golden Triangle, Tachileik was once notorious for its proximity to the drug trade but now is better known for its markets and shopping. Situated across the river from Mae Sai, Tachileik sees plenty of Thai visitors looking to pick up a bargain amongst the thousands of stalls of Chinese-made goods. The city is also close to the Mekong River and the border with Laos. MYEIK Myeik (Mergui) is between the sea and low hills with pagodas, monasteries and government buildings. It is a busy port town and a centre for the fishing, pearl, rice, preserved and dried fish, birds' nests and rubber industries. There is a flourishing cultured pearl industry but for centuries Myeik natural pearls have been on par with rubies in value and attraction, much sought after by the Myanmar royalty and the aristocracy. These natural pearls were harvested by the Salon or Moken people, who are sometimes referred to as sea gypsies. Do: See and isine, e local cu th • Try h the fres y rl la par ticu t wheat or sh d an seafood as known noddles i kai kat gy rney your jou • Start y Myeik rb ea n into the unnin g ogo, a st Archipel ral ve se of n collectio y tl red mos h un d n ds. it ted isla uninhab DAWEI 82 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine See and Do: • Make the shor t journey west to prist ine Maun gmakan beach, where few for eig n tourists vent ure • Wander th e no-longer sleepy streets of the Tanintharyi Region capital, which is set to be transforme d in coming year s by a ne arby Special Econom ic Zone Dawei, which the British called Tavoy, is about 30 miles (48km) from the mouth of the Dawei River on the coast of Tanintharyi (Tenessarim) Division. It is one of the oldest ports in Myanmar and was mentioned by the merchant traveller Ralph Fitch, who in 1583 became the first Englishman to set foot on Myanmar soil. Dawei is a prosperous town, with many of the richest families owning fleets of fishing vessels or rubber plantations. As is usual with the typical and conservative Myanmar use of wealth, it is not apparent to the casual eye. It is a quiet, peaceful little town, proud of its famous as "Moung Ma Kan" beach. Destinations KAWTHAUNG Kawthaung is included in Tanintharyi Division in the southernmost part of the Union of Myanmar. At the mouth of Parchan river there is Kawthaung Cape (Formerly Victoria Point) which is in the southern most part of Myanmar. Half of the town is going up along the slope. The town is an important border point with products such as seafood, palm oil and rubber. You can observe the state of King Bayintnaung in Kawthaung which is a symbol of Myanmar Patriotism. The world's largest pearl was discovered in the Makha lank pearl oyster exploration area in the north west of Zardatgyi Island in Kawthaung Township. By visiting, the Taninitharyi Division, you will be refresh yours clear by breathing fresh sea breeze and observing the scenario of the beautiful sunset and rocky sea beaches. Do: See and ty's er the ci d n a • W t ter fron a w g bustlin e th ss ro st ac area, ju from er iv R n Pagya nd in T haila Ranon g or th miles n w fe a • Head llages, vi g in fish to visit an d pagoda a hilltop aches be ed op un devel 83 www.airmandalay.com Offices 84 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Route map 85 www.airmandalay.com Travel Tips Declaration As a traveller you are required to go through Customs formalities and fill up the Passenger’s Declaration Form (P.D form). Misinformation or false declarations may result in dalays and heavy penalties. You may bring in as much foreign currencies as you wish. However forign currencies over US$ 10, 000 or its equivalent bringing in by a visitor (non-citizen) have to fill up the Foreign Exchange Declaration Form (FED Form). Duty Free Allowances * Presonal effects in actual use by the passenger * 400 sticks of cigarettes * 2 liters of tobacco * 250 gm of tobacco * 100 sticks of cigars - 0.5 liter of perfume 86 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Import Prohibitions For Traveler * Counterfert coins and currencies * Pornographic articles, * All kinds of narcotic druge and psychotropic substances * Playing cards, * Goods bearing the imprint or reproduction of the flag of the Union of Myanmar * Goods bearing the Emblem of Buddha or pagodas of Myanmar * Toy guns and remots controlled toys IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Telecommunication equipment including cellular telephones brought in by passenger without permit, which are to be declared in personal declaration form for reshipment will be released at the time of departure. All telecommun cation equipment and restricted articles which are not intended for use in the Union of Myanmar are also subject to the above mentioned Customs Control. The Required Terms and Conditions for VISA ON ARRIVAL The applicant shall 1. have a valid passport not expiring for at least 6 months from the date of entry into Myanmar. 2. bring two recent (4cm x 6cm) color photos taken within the past six months. 3. have the letter of invitation from the sponsoring company in the event of first trip of business study. (Stay cannot be extended.) 4. be required to produce copies of company registration/ business license / evidence of permission to do business issued by the ministries concerned together with the applicatin if he is working in Myanmar. 5. full mention the name of the factory, location, the sponsor and the position he holds if he is doing business with business visa. 6. apply for extension of visa with the recommendation of the ministries concerned as well as in accordance with the existing procedures if he is doing business with business visa. 7. produce letter of invitation by the ministries concerned if he is going to attend meetings, workshops, event and ceremonies. 8. not be allowed to engage in any sort of work with or without charges apart from the professions mentioned in the visa application form. Travel Tips: Entry Formalities 9. produce air tacket to the destination if he is applying for transit visa. 10.Stay at the hotels, motels and guest houses holding legal licenses issued by Myanmar Government, and factories and workshops legally permitted as well as human dwllings; and exactly mention the address he will stay at. 11.make a promise to strictly abide by the existing laws, rules, procedures, orders and directives issued by Myanmar Govenment. 12.have under-seven-year-old children accomanying parents in the passport granted visa free of charge; be able to produce the avidence of parent-children relationship if the children are holding separate passport. 13.not be allowed to travel to the restricted areas without seeking prior permission. 14.report to the office of the township Immigration and National Registration Department concerned at with he stays within Myanmar mentioning the address of hotels, motels, guest houses, factories and workshops legally permitted as well as human dwellings. 15.depart to the country which he has travelled from by the arrangement of the airline he is using if he is denied entry. 16.abide by the decision of the On Arrival Visa Scrutiny and Issuing Team. 17.apply for Visa On Arrival at Airport Immigration Section obtaining the applicatin form either from the airlines in Myanmar or the following website:www.mip.gov.mm of the Ministry of Immigration and Population. Myanmar Visa On Arrival Type of Visa, Fees and Duration Types of Visa BUSINESS VISA ENTRY VISA (Metting/ Workshop/ Events) TRANSIT VISA Fees US$ 50 US$ 40 Duration 70 days 28 days US$ 20 24 hours Starting International Airport Yangon International Airport Permitted list of countries (26 countries) Brunei, Cambodia, Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Vietnam, Australia, China, Denmark, France, Germany, India, italy, Japan, Korea, New Zealand, Norway, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Taiwan, United Kingdom, United States of America. 87 www.airmandalay.com Passenger Sales Agents Asian Trails Ltd. Caravan Travels & Tours Exotic Myanmar Travels & Tours No. 73, Pyay Road, Dagon Township, No. 14, Min Tae Street, Junction of Ngapali Building 255, Room No-1502, 15th Floor, Yangon, Myanmar. Ngapali, Thandwe, Myanmar. Olympic Tower, Bo Aung Kyaw Street, Tel: +95.1 211 212, 223 262, 211 622 Tel : +43 42404 Kyauktada Township, Yangon, Fax: +95.1 211670 Fax: +43 42308 Myanmar. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Tel: +95.1 386 539, 392 886 Email: [email protected] Website: www.myanmar-travel.com www.asiantrails.info [email protected] Columbus Travels & Tours No. 586, Strand Road, Corner of 7th Street Website: www.myanmarvisaservice.com www.exoticmyanmar.com Adventure Myanmar Tours & Lanmadaw Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Incentives Tel: +95.1 229 245, 216 245(Hunt Line) No. 27, Inya Myaing Road, Bahan Fax: +95.1 222 790, 229 246 Gulf Travel & Tour Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Email: [email protected] No. 69, Sulae Pagoda Road, Near Central Tel: +95.1 502 901 to 5, 505 103 Website: www.travelmyanmar.com Point Tower, Kyauktada Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Fax: +95.1 502 906, 502 907 Email: [email protected] Diethelm Travel Myanmar Tel: +95.1 383 468, 249 187, 374 316 http://www.adventuremyanmar.com 412, Merchant Street (Corner of 45th Street) Fax: +95.1 374 316, 386 687 Botathaung Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Email: [email protected] All Asia Exclusive Travel Co.Ltd Tel: +95.1 373 937, 376 801-4 No. 232 , Gant Ga Myaing Street 2 Mobile : +95.9 8610 457 - 60 23 rd Quarter, Thuwunna, Yangon, Myanmar. Fax +(95 1) 373 940, 376 805 Tel / Fax : +95.1 571 393, 569 658 Emails: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.gulftravelsmyanmar.com Indochina Services Travel Ltd No 11 (A), Maharmyaing Street, [email protected] Email: [email protected] Sanchaung Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Website: www.allasiaexclusive.asia Website: www.diethelmtravel.com Asia Holidays EPG Travel Co., Ltd. Fax: +95.1 504 917 No. 100A, Kaba Aye Pagoda Road, No. 15, 6th floor, Nawaday Street Email: [email protected] Bahan Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Dagon Township , Yangon , Myanmar Website: www.icstravelgroup.com Tel: +95.1 554468 Tel +95.1 371 935-6, 255 723-5 Fax: +95.1 554468 Fax:+95.1 371 935-6, 255 723-5 press Mandalay Holidays Email: [email protected] Ext: 21 Travels & Tours Email: [email protected] Room #14, Sule Centre Point Tower, No. Website: www.phoenixvoyages.com Website: www.epgtravel.com 65, Sule Pagoda Road, Ayarwaddy Legend Travels & Tours Exotissimo Travel Co., Ltd. Tel +95.1 377 332, 377 333 Co.,Ltd 12th Floor, MMB Tower, No. 166, Upper Fax:+95.1 377 303 No.104, 37th Street, Lower Block, Pansodan Street, Mingalar Taung Nyunt Email: [email protected] Kyauktada Township, Yangon, Myanmar Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Tel: (+95.1) 252007~8, 250909, 398303~4, Tel: +95-1 377 801-8, 377 811, 383 181, Tel: +95.1 511 701, 511 658, 523 167 [email protected] Kyauktadar Township ,Yangon, Myanmar. 4411484 383 182 Fax: (+95.1) 252007 Fax: +95-1 377 810 Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.ayarwaddylegend.com [email protected] Website: traveltrade.exotissimo.com www.exofoundation.com [email protected] Website: www.mandalayholidays.com, www.roadtomyanmar.com May Flower Travels & Tours Co., Ltd No.240, Pansodan Road (Upper Block) Kyautada Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Bandoola Tours & Travels Ltd. Tel: +95.1 377 495 ~ 499 No. 1st Fl., 77, Shwebonthar Street, Mobile: +95.9 730 87999, 730 97888 Pabedan Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Fax: +95-1 250 177 Tel: +95.1 245207, 245 327 Email: [email protected] Fax: +95.1 248 174 Website: www.mayflower-travels.com Email: [email protected] [email protected] 88 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Passenger Sales Agents Mya Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. Odyssey Travels & Tours Shan Yoma Travels & Tours Co., Ltd No. 453, Mahabandoola Road, (Corner of No 221 / 223 ( Ground Floor ), Bo Aung No. 124/126, 50th Street 32nd Street), Kyaw Street , Pazundaung Township Pabedan Township, Yangon, Myanmar Kyaut Tada Township, Yangon, Myanmar Tel: +95.1 295 510, 204 152 Tel +95.1 384 299, 371 668, 254 463 Tel: +95.1 240 545 , 373 199, Fax: +95.1 299 389 Mobile: +95.9 500 4626 Mobile: +95.9 731 87799,731 97799, Email: [email protected] Fax:+95.1 254 463 Fax: +95.1 240 545 [email protected] Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Website: www.exploremyanmar.com Website: www.odysseymyanmar.com Seven Diamond Myanmar Polestar Travels & Tours Rm No.508, 5th Fl, La Pyayt Wun Plaza, Oake Khaung Express Travels Co., Ltd. No-37 Alanpya Pagoda Road, Dagon Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. No. 93, Thein Phyu Road (Lower Block), Township, Yangon, Myanmar. No.W-1, Gyo Phyu Street, West Aung Botahtaung Township, Yangon, Myanmar Tel: +95.1 382 530, 255 638, 393 190 San Stadium, Tel: +95.1 203 398, 392 974, 392 975, Fax: +95.1 382 530 Mingalartaungnyunt 392 976 Email: [email protected] Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Fax: +95.1 203 549 Tel: +95.1 255 933, 255 944, 383 968, 252 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.myanmarpolestar.com 953, 707 093 Fax: +95.1 383 968 Myanmar Travels &Tours Email: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.sevendiamondtravel.com www.myanmartravelinformation.com No 118 , Mahabandoola Garden Street, Kyauktadar Township , Yangon , Myanmar. Peace and Forever Travel & Tours Sun Far Travel Co., Ltd. Tel: +95.1 371 286 , 374 281 No.83, 2nd Floor, Dhammazedi Road, No.25,27, 29, 31 Ground Floor, 38th Street, Fax: +95.1 254 417 Sanchaung Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Kyauktada Township, Yangon, Myanmar. Email: [email protected] Tel/Fax: +95.1 523063, 539524 Tel: +95.1 243 992-3, 380 888 Email: [email protected], infor. Fax: +95.1 254 599, 246 318 [email protected] Email: [email protected] Website: www.experiencemyanmar.com Website: www.sunfartravel.com No 104, Ground Floor, Bogalay Zay Street Pale Eikari Travels & Tours Sun Flower Botahtaung Township, Yangon , Myanmar Mi Thar Su Stores, No. 131, Zay Taung Travels & Tours Co., Ltd. Tel: +95.1 392 239 , 392 272 , 296 722 Phet Street, Zayit Block, Dawei, Myanmar. Room 102, Building D-1, Delta Plaza, Fax: +95.1 398 524, 373 912 Tel: +95.59 21282, 22082, 22282 Shwegondaing Road, Bahan Township, Mobile : +95 9 512 2540 , 09 519 5502 Mobile : +95.9 8740 400 Yangon, Myanmar. Email: [email protected] Fax: +95.59 21182 Tel : +95.1 559511 Website: www.naturedream-travel.com Email: [email protected] Mobile :+95.9 500 3544 Nice Fare Travel Co., Ltd Road to Mandalay No.5, Ground Floor, Aung San Stadium, Myanmar Hotels & Cruises Limited Near City Mart, Joephyu Road, 39-C Taw Win Road, The Governor's U Ta - 102, U Oak Ta Ma Road , Kyaung Mingalar Taung Nyunt Tsp., Yangon, Residence, Dagon Township, Yangon, Tat Lan Myanmar. Myanmar. Sittwe . Myanmar. Tel: +95.1 393 049, 374 922, 374 933, 245 Tel: +95.1 217 361, 229 864 Tel: +95.43 21638 ,24089, 378, 393 077 Fax: +95.1 217 361 Mobile : +95.9 568 0606, 510 1194 Fax: +95.1 393 048 Email: [email protected] [email protected] Nature Dream Travels & Tour Co., Ltd. Email: [email protected] Email: [email protected] Vesali Co.Ltd www.roadtomandalay.net Website: www.nicefare.net 89 www.airmandalay.com Useful Numbers Emergency Airlines Police199 Air Mandalay(6T) 501520,525488 (Fax: 525937) Police Headquarter, Yangon Air Asia 252885, 251886 Fire191/192 Aeroflot 294006 (Fax: 245092) Ambulance (Red Cross, Yangon) 295133 Air China (CA) 500054 (Fax: 505023 Yangon General Hospital (Emergency) 682368/683225 Air France (AF) 255430 (Fax: 255303) Traffic Investigation 286863-4/256112-31 All Nippon Airways (NH) 255412 Customs 201779 Asiana Airlines (OS) 371382 (Fax: 549872) Immigration 2864/651113 Bangkok Airways (PG) (02) 2670873) Biman Bangaldesh (BG) 240922/242997 China Airlines (0) 245484 (Fax: 246330) 282541/284764 Information Tourist Information 282075 China Southern Airlines 256355 Ext: 3555 Tourist Information (Airport) 662652 Druk Airlines (KB) 524904 (Fax: 525948) Ministry of Hotels & Tourism 254098/282075 Eva Airways (BR) 298001 (Fax: 296272) Indian Airlines (IC) 253598 (Fax: 248175) Japan JAL Airlines (JL) 243030 Ext: 101 Embassies Australia 251809(Fax: 246159) Korean Air (KE) 667410 (Fax: 662355) People’s Republic of Bangladesh 526144(Fax: 515273) Mandarin Airlines (AE) 245484 (Fax: 246330) Brunei Darussalam 526985(Fax: 512854) Malaysia Airlines (MH) 241007 Ext: 703/704 Cambodia 549609(Fax: 541462) Myanmar Airways Int’l(8M) 255260 (Fax: 255305) People’s Republic of China 221280-81 (Fax: 227019) Royal Brunei Airlines (BI) 243024 Arab Republic of Egypt 222886 (Fax: 222865) Silk Air (MI) 1 Singapore Airlines (SQ) 255287-289 (Fax: 255290) France 212523 (Fax: 212527) Thai Airways International (TG) 255499 Fax: 255490 Arab Republic of Germany 548951 (Fax: 548899) Vietnam Airline 255066, 255088 Republic of Indonesia 254465 (Fax: 254468) India 243~72 (Fax: 388414) Israel 515115 (Fax: 512116) Italy 527100 (Fax: 514565) Japan 549644-8 (Fax: 549643) Republic of Korea 527142-44 (Fax: 513286) Laos People’s Democratic Republic 222482 (Fax: 227446) Malaysia 220248 (Fax: 221840) Royal Nepalese 545880 (Fax: 549803) Islamic Republic of Pakistan 222881 (Fax: 221147) Philippines 558149-151(Fax: 558154) Republic of Singapore 559001 (Fax: 559921) Democratic Socialist Republic of Sri Lanka 222812 (Fax: 221509) Russian Federation 241955 (Fax: 241953) Royal Thai 226721 (Fax: 221713) United Kingdom 256438 (Fax: 380321) United States of America 536509 (Fax: 650306) Socialist Republic of Vietnam 548905 (Fax: 945302) Federal Republic of Yugoslavia 536655 Railway Enquires 274024/274027 Dagon-Mandalay249024 Malikha-Mandalay (02) 21385 Ngo Acted 500171 Association Francois-Xavier 536559, 504610 Bagnoud (AFXB) Aide Medicale International (AMI) 525246; 526487, 535861 Japaness Organization for Intl Cooperation 378863, 380899, 388097, In Family Planning (JOICEFP) 394141 Ext: 105 Myanmar Anti-Narcotics Association (MANA) 502893, 502892 Myanmar Red Cross Society (MRCS) 392028, 09 8553292 Marie Slops International (MSI) 544423, 705657, 4412409 Population Services International (PSI) 375880, 375855-6, 375878 Relief International (RI) 662965 Save the Children Myanmar (SC) 375791, 375801, 375739 Highway Bus Directories Enquiry 100 Booking (inland) 101 Booking (Overseas) 131/667444/657555 Complaint 102 Cellular, enquiry & complaints 282788/665942/282788 Telegraphs, enquiry & complaints 273579 Telex (international) booking 274195 Telex complaints 280431 90 The Golden Flight - Air Mandalay's Inflight Magazine Elite Location 09 73553553, 73074539 Man Shwe Pyi 254483~4 Shwe Zin Sett Kyar 637212, 0973105000 Myat Mandalar Tun 09 2050915~6 New Mandalar Tun 385096 Shwe Mandalar 701615, 09 73017781 Shwe 249672, 381472 Thet Lan 393045, 255557
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