Automatic Transmission Removal from under a 1956 T-Bird

Automatic Transmission Removal from under a 1956 T-Bird
These are the notes I took when I removed the automatic transmission from under my 1956
Thunderbird. I did this by leaving the engine in place.
Authored by: Tim Roden, CTCI #10159
The Ford Shop Manual suggests to remove the transmission you should remove the engine and transmission as a unit. This is good advice. I had the engine and transmission rebuilt the year before and everything in the engine compartment has fresh paint. I felt I was left with two options. I could remove the
engine and transmission together or I could challenge myself and remove it from under the car.
I read two different tutorials on how to do this. Both
tutorials were very helpful, but I discovered a few surprises along the way. These notes are mainly for myself if I were to do this again and share with others who
might want to do a project like this with no surprises.
After having the transmission rebuilt, reverse gear was
getting weaker and weaker. A seal went out and the
transmission specialist needed to disassemble the transmission to fix the problem. Another transmission specialist told me it really needed to come out and have the
repair work done on a bench. Trying to make the repair
while still in the car was not a very good option.
So I made the decision to remove the transmission from under the car. I am not a mechanic, but I have
been around cars and wrenching for over 40 years. I had the necessary tools and the garage space. I had
the confidence, but that would be tested a couple of times. The overall experience was great. The transmission was successfully serviced and it is back in the car and working great.
I need to make a disclaimer here. These notes cover how I did this project. The space is very limited in
removing the transmission. Those of us with 55 and 56 T-Birds are in luck as we can remove the cross
member. The 57 T-Bird cross members are welded in place. I know this can be done on 57’s, but it will
be more challenging. There is less room for removal on 57’s.
I needed to acquire two items. A decent Transmission Jack and a spare medium case Fordomatic Transmission Pan. Both items were invaluable. You need to get the car up as high as you can. I had the rear
tires on a set of ramps that were 8 inches high. The front tires were sitting on blocks of wood that were
14 inches high. Notice the picture at top right. You can see part of the blocks under the front tires. The
following pages covers the steps I took to do this project.
Page 2
Assuming that your Thunderbird is on blocks and you have access to a transmission jack and have a
spare medium case transmission pan lets get started.
Step 1 - Remove the Kick Down Rod.
Step 2 - Remove the Kick Down Splash Shield. - 2 screws (One screw goes through bell housing and
other screw bolts to engine.)
Step 3 - Remove Gear Select rod from shifter to transmission.
Step 4 - Remove Automatic Shifter. This will allow you easier access to the speedometer cable located
on Tail Shaft later. This is optional, I chose to remove it which also means removing the seat and carpet.
Step 5 - Remove the small access cover on the bottom of the bell housing.
Step 6 - Remove Lower Cover on engine side of bell housing. This will allow access to drain the torque
converter and access the bolts on the flex plate.
Step 7 - Remove the Drive Shaft. This is also a safety measure for Step 10.
Step 8 - Drain Transmission Pan by removing Dip Stick Tube. At some point the Dip Stick Tube will be
removed completely, but for now move off to the side.
Step 9 - Drain Torque Converter. Typically there is two drain plugs on the Torque Converter, this is for
convenience. Open up only one of the plugs and allow to drain.
Step 10 - Unbolt the Torque Converter from the Flex Plate. Typically you will have four bolts 90 degrees a part. If you cannot rotate engine, you can use the starter to gain access to the bolts. I used a remote starter switch and left the ignition key in the off position. You don’t want the engine to start.
Step 11 - Remove lower splash shield on the passenger side to gain easier access to the Starter. Remove
the Wire to the starter and lay on the engine. This is a good time to disconnect the battery.
Step 12 - Remove the middle bolt on the starter.
Step 13 - Remove the Transmission Dip Stick and bracket now that the screw if out.
Step 14 - Remove the screw on the top of the Down Draft Tube. I left the Down Draft Tube in the car,
but now that the screws are loose it can easily be pushed to the side and held with tape.
Step 15 - Remove the bolt for the Spark Plug Wire Guide above the Starter. This will give you easier
access to the top bolt on the Starter.
Step 16 - Remove the two remaining bolts on the Starter and remove the Starter.
Step 17 - Remove the Speedometer Cable on Tail Shaft. If you did not remove the Shifter, it is accessible from under the car but might be a little difficult. I removed the shifter.
Step 18 - Loosen Steady Rests nuts at the very bottom. This will allow you to raise the engine if you
allow enough slack.
Step 19 - Remove Transmission Cooling Lines if your car is equipped with them.
Page 3
Step 20 - Remove the two Bolts and Bracket that holds the Tail Shaft in position. (Resting Place)
Step 21 - Brace Engine under Oil Pan. I used an adjustable Jack Stand with a block of wood.
Step 22 - This is a good time to make sure what ever you block the engine with, make sure the footprint
is small. I was able to remove the Transmission and Bell Housing as a unit when it came out of the car.
I rolled the Transmission Jack, Transmission and Bell Housing all at once. Having lots of clearance under the engine makes it easier to slide out from under the car.
Step 23 - As a precaution, put a block of wood under the both exhaust pipes in the frame. If for some
reason the Jack Stand fails under the oil pan, the exhaust pipes will hit the frame. A block of wood will
prevent metal to metal contact. The exhaust pipes I am referring to connect to the exhaust manifolds.
Step 24 - Remove the Transmission Pan. Although the Torque Converter is drained and Transmission
Dip Stick Tube has been removed, this is messy. Have a big pan to catch the fluid as the pan still has a
fair amount of fluid remaining.
NOTE: Now that the bottom of the Transmission is exposed, some disassembly is necessary. On Step
35 we need to disconnect and slide the tail shaft back. This cannot be done until three tubes are remove
from the transmission. It is critical these three tubes be removed. I was intimidated at first, but now that
I have done it, it is not that bad. See photos on next two page for better reference in following Steps 25
though Step 30.
Step 25 - Remove the Bracket that is holding the Screen in place. Once the bracket is removed the
Screen will come out. Notice the Screen fits over two tubes.
Step 26 - Remove the 1/4 inch tube. It loops around the 1/2 Tube.
Step 27 - Remove the 1/2 inch tube that was below the 1/4 tube. To do this, loosen the 3 bolts on the
Control Valve Body with a 7/16 inch socket.
Step 28 - Remove the first Tube Going to the Tail Shaft. It is at an angle pointing downward. I used a
pliers and pulled it out. Notice the “O-Ring” goes in to the Tail Shaft. This tube is 9/16 in diameter.
Step 29 - Remove the Control Valve Body. The two small tubes also need to come out with it. I had to
use a 9/16 socket and loosen the Front Servo so the tubes would slide out easier. Once the Control
Valve Body is out and the two tubes, make sure you tighten the Front Servo screws.
Step 30 - Now that the Control Valve Body is out, you should notice another Tube inside an opening
that is now exposed. I used a curved tool to hook this 9/16 inch tube in the groove and pulled it out.
This is a short tube with an “O-Ring” at the bottom. This was the second Tube that went in to the Tail
Shaft. The remaining tube is a 1/4 inch tube that goes in to the Tail Shaft and comes down and over the
Front Servo. Remove this tube.
That is the last tube to come out. All three tubes going in to the Tail Shaft are now removed. The next
two pages shows the Transmission Tubes and Control Valve and are numbered with the Steps shown on
this page.
Page 4
Step 26
Front Servo
Screws
Step 25
Step 27
Step 28
Step 29
Page 5
Step 30
I stored these parts in a
covered bucket to keep
them clean.
Caution
should be used when
handling these parts.
The Control Valve Body
has two plunger type
rods coming from the
backside. One plunger
is for the Kick Down,
the other plunger is for
Gear selection.
Handle with Care.
Page 6
Step 31 - Attach the spare Medium Case Transmission Pan to the Transmission Jack. I used four bolts
to anchor the Pan to the Transmission Jack. I used about eight screws to anchor the Pan to the Transmission. I measured for clearance of the bolt heads. There is plenty of clearance for three of the bolts, but
caution should be used placing the bolt near the Front Servo.
Shown below are several pictures that show the Transmission Jack, a Medium Case Transmission Pan
and the location of the Four Bolts. Note the height to the top of the Transmission Pan. - 10 inches. This
was in its lowered position. This height was perfect for sliding the assembly out in Step 39.
Page 7
Step 32 - Attach the Medium Case Transmission Pan to the Transmission. At this point you should have
the Transmission Jack, bolted to the Transmission Pan and the Pan should be bolted to the Transmission.
Step 33 - Raise the Transmission Jack slightly to raise the Tail Shaft from its resting place. I only raised
it about a 1/4 of an inch. Re-adjust the Jack Stand holding the engine in place and tighten it up. Also
double check to make sure you have enough slack with the nuts on the steady rests. If your T-Bird is a
1955 or a 1956, I would remove the Cross Member for more clearance. There are three bolts on each
side for a total of six and the Cross Member will come out.
Step 34 - Remove the Five bolts holding the Tail Shaft housing in place. This is much easier with the
Cross Member removed, but it can be done in place. Slide the Housing back.
Step 35 - Now pull the Tail Shaft itself out and slide
back. The Tail Shaft is engaged in Planetary gears,
but with a little force it will come out. Watch out for
the three tubes. Slide the Tail Shaft housing back over
the Tail Shaft and push it back as far as you can over
the X-Member of the frame. See photo at right.
Step 36 - I made a small metal piece (keeper) to hold
the gears in place in the back of the exposed Transmission. The metal piece of about 1 inch wide and 4
to 5 inches long. I used an existing bolt hole to anchor
it in place. See photo at right. This should be in place
before removing the transmission. It is my understanding these gears can slide back and cause problems.
Be careful of the two O-Rings on the Shaft as shown
on the picture at bottom right.
Step 37 - Remove the four bolts that hold the Bell Housing to the Engine. You may also want to use
guide bolts to help with the separation.
Step 38 - Slide the Bell Housing away from the Engine and lower it. Watch out for the Flex Plate and
the Transmission to Frame clearance issue. It would really be advisable to have a friend help watch for
these clearance issues. It is difficult to see both sides. We only moved about an inch at a time, repositioning as needed. Be careful and very patient you are almost done.
Step 39 - Because I had the car high enough I was able to slide the
Transmission Jack out from under the car with the Transmission,
Torque Converter and Bell Housing intact. I moved toward the front
wheel as the Frame goes up at an angle and the opening of the Fender
made it easier. See photo at right. The Transmission is out!
Page 8
Step 40 - Once you are able to move the Transmission Jack with the Transmission, Torque Converter
and Bell Housing out from under the car you now have easy access. Remove the Torque Converter by
pulling forward and sliding off of the shaft of the Transmission. Next remove the four bolts and remove
the Bell Housing.
Step 41 - The Transmission Repair Specialist wanted the Tail Shaft and the parts I removed. So I retrieved the Tail Shaft and Tail Shaft Housing from above the X-Member. Remove the Keeper and install the Tail Shaft paying close attention to the three tubes. Then install the Tail Shaft Housing using
the five screws. This was assembled before taking it to the Transmission Shop. I did not re-assemble
the parts I took out of the transmission as per the Transmission Repair Specialist request.
Caution Note: During the installation of the Tail Shaft be careful of the two O-Rings on the Shaft.
Move shaft around until it slides easily in to position. (Small movements at Shaft engagement)
Remember not to disturb the position of the Thunderbird. The engine is being held in place by the Front
Motor mount and the Jack Stand under the oil pan.
My notes to reinstall the Transmission start on the next page.
Page 9
Here are my notes to reinstall the Automatic Transmission
There are a few important notes regarding the reinstallation of the Automatic Transmission using the
under the car method.
We will assume you have the Automatic Transmission repaired. Make sure the parts are removed from
the Transmission that are covered from Steps 25 through Step 30 on the Removal process.
We will also assume that you have the Tail Shaft Housing and Tail Shaft removed from the Transmission.
Note: The Fordomatic Shop Manual also has air pressure tests to verify a Front Servo Check, Rear
Servo Check, Front Clutch and Governor Application and Rear Clutch Application. In my situation it
was a Rear Clutch problem. I pressure tested the Rear Clutch before assembly with about 60 lbs. psi.
You should hear a popping sound if it is working properly. This information can be found on Pages 26
and 27 of the 1956-57 Fordomatic Shop Manual. After my Transmission was repaired this popping
sound could be heard.
Step 1 - This would be a good time to use a gasket sealer and install the Gasket at the rear of the Transmission. This gasket goes between the Transmission and the Tail Shaft. The Tail Shaft will be installed
later. Install the Keeper to hold the gears in place at the rear of the Transmission. See photo on Page 7.
This will also help hold the gears and gasket in place.
Step 2 - Before putting the Tail Shaft and the Tail Shaft Housing in place over the X-Member of the
frame, now is the time to put that new gasket in between the Tail Shaft and Tail Shaft Housing. Once in
place use two “Tie Wraps” to hold all three items together through the existing bolt holes. Now slide
Tail Shaft assembly over the X-Member as far back as you can. See photo on Page 7.
Step 3 - With spare Transmission Pan bolted to Transmission Jack, bolt the Transmission to the Pan using about 8 screws.
Step 4 - Install the Bell Housing to the Transmission. (Four bolts)
Step 5 - Slide the Torque Converter on the spline shaft of the Transmission. There is a two step engagement for the Torque Converter. Make sure you feel both engagements. This is critical.
Step 6 - With care you can now slide the Transmission Jack under the car and get in to position to raise
the Transmission. As before this is where a friend can help in raising the Transmission to align the Bell
Housing to the Engine. Be patient, adjusting the position and angle is key to alignment. Make sure you
have the orientation of the Torque Converter matched correctly with the Flex Plate. You can also use a
stud in a couple of the bolt holes for alignment of the Bell Housing. These studs screw in to the engine
and match the Bell Housing holes. Once aligned these screws come out. Install all four bolts and
tighten.
Step 7 - Now that the Bell Housing is bolted to the Engine and the Transmission is bolted to the Bell
Housing, the “Keeper” can be removed from the rear of the Transmission case. The Gasket should remain in place once the Keeper is removed.
Step 8 - Next slide the Tail Shaft assembly forward and cut the Tie Wraps. Be very careful in sliding the
Tail Shaft in to position and watch the three tubes. It takes a little patience to line everything up. Once
the Tail Shaft is seated, line up the gasket and slide the Tail Shaft Housing forward and install the five
bolts. Refer to Step 41 to exercise caution of the O-Rings.
Step 9 - Install the Cross Member. (Eight Bolts)
Page 10
Step 10 - Remove the Jack Stand from under the Engine Oil Pan. You can now lower the Transmission
Jack so the Tail Shaft will be resting on the Cross Member. Unbolt the Transmission Pan from the
Transmission and remove the Transmission Jack and Pan from under the car. The under side of the
Transmission is now exposed. You can temporarily install your original Transmission Pan until you
have the time to install the parts that were removed on Steps 25 through Step 30 during removal.
Step 11 - Bolt the Tail Shaft Housing to the Cross Member with the Bracket and two bolts.
Step 12 - Now install the parts that you removed from the Transmission on Steps 25 through Step 30 of
the removal process. First install the short 9/16” Tube that goes in the hole that will be under the area
where the Control Valve Body goes. The “O-Ring” end will be toward the bottom, not toward the Tail
Shaft. See picture for Step 30 on the removal process. Also install the long 1/4 tube that goes from the
Front Servo to the Tail Shaft. Make sure it seats in the Tail Shaft. Use same picture for Step 30.
Step 13 - Next install the Control Valve Body. Loosen the two screws that hold the Front Servo in place
to allow to Control Valve Body to be installed along with the two tubes that go in the Front Servo.
Make sure the Kick Down Paw goes in between the larger diameter surfaces on the shaft to activate and
deactivate the Kick Down operation. Also make sure the Gear Selector Paw goes in between the first
and second position of the Manual Valve. This will allow the Gear Selection to work properly once everything is connected. Now tighten the three screws on the Control Valve Body and the two screws on
the Front Servo. You can verify your Paw positions by reaching on the side of the Transmission and
working the Kick Down lever and Gear Selection lever.
Step 14 - Install the long 9/16” Tube as shown on Step 28 picture on removal process. This Tube is at
an angle and goes in the Tail Shaft with the “O-Ring” on Tail Shaft side.
Step 15 - Install the 1/2” Tube as shown on Step 27 picture. You may have to loosen the three screws on
the Control Valve Body to engage the Tube. Be sure to tighten these screws when done.
Step 16 - Install the 1/4” Tube as shown on Step 26 picture. This Tube loops around the 1/2” Tube.
Step 17 - Install the Screen and make sure the Tubes engage inside the screen. Then install the Retainer
by clipping on to the two Tubes to hold in place. See Step 25 picture in removal process.
Step 18 - Install the Transmission Pan. At this point I installed a new Gasket.
Step 19 - Remove any blocks of wood you may have under both exhaust pipes in the frame.
Step 20 - Install the Starter and Starter Wire. But, don’t install the Transmission Dip Stick Yet. Leave
the middle screw loose. The reason being you will have more room when it comes to installing the
Transmission Cooling Lines. You can also tighten the screw for the Spark Plug Wire Guide above the
Starter.
Step 21 - Install the Transmission Cooling Lines.
Step 22 - Install the Transmission Dip Stick Tube to the Transmission Pan. Then tighten the middle bolt
on the Starter for the bracket for the Transmission Dip Stick Tube and for the Down Draft Tube.
Step 23 - Tighten the Engine Steady Rests Bolts.
Step 24 - Install the four bolts that connect the Torque Converter to the Flex Plate.
Page 11
Step 25 - Install the Front Cover to the Bell Housing located on the bottom of Engine Side.
Step 26 - Install the Bottom Cover to the Bell Housing.
Step 27 - Install the Speedometer Cable to the Tail Shaft Housing. This is much easier if you removed
the Automatic Shifter.
Step 28 - If you removed your Automatic Shifter, now is the time to reinstall it. This includes connecting the wires for the Neutral Safety Switch, Lights for Reverse and the light that indicates which Gear
Selection you are in when turning the lights on.
Step 29 - Install the Gear Selection Rod that goes from the Shifter to the Transmission.
Step 30 - Install the Kick Down Rod.
Step 31 - Install the Kick Down Rod Shield.
Step 32 - Install the Drive Shaft. I put the Transmission in Neutral allowing the Drive Shaft to rotate.
Step 33 - Install the lower Splash Shield.
==========================================================================
The reassembly is done. Pour 5 quarts of Automatic Transmission Fluid (Type F) in the Transmission
Dip Stick Tube using a funnel.
Connect the battery and start engine.
As the engine is running add the remaining fluid.
Test each gear once the fluid level registers satisfactory on the Dip Stick.
I hope if you used these notes your project was successful as mine.
This picture was taken about 75 miles
after the Transmission project. Now
more than 600 miles later I could not
be happier. It was a huge success.
Granted it was a lot of work. Some
people feel pulling the Engine andTransmission together is easier. I
would certainly not argue that point.
Having done this project and gaining
the experience is priceless to me.
May 6, 2013