Building the
Transcription
Building the
Building the: Installing the popular Lifan 200cc engine in a 1971 Honda SL-100 Gerry Langwell July 2009 Acknowledgements Special thanks to all who helped and supported this project. My wife, Vicki for her patience and understanding while trying to finish this project. David Moore for donating the project Honda. My brother Brian at Unique Services for helping modify the exhaust. And my brother Jim at Gumby’s Cycle Werx for his technical guidance when I would find myself up against a wall. And finally, Larry Hooper and Daniel from Hooper Imports for engaging in lengthy discussions with me while trying to troubleshoot the wiring. 2 Some Things You Will Need A 200cc Lifan engine. You can get these from places like eBay, but Hooper Imports will include everything you need for this conversion. Their engines come with carburetor, starter relay, coil, rectifier, and CDI unit. Also, you will not find better customer service anywhere. Some 18 gauge wire. I used red and green. Sheet metal for fabricating brackets. A 12 volt battery. I used the XL4L-B from Batteries Plus A pod type air filter A starter button (I used the lower switch housing from a Honda CB-350) A choke cable and lever ($5 on eBay from a Honda CM-185) A section of 1.25” ID pipe to modify the exhaust pipe. A 10 watt 3.61 ohm resistor or 12 volt light bulbs. 3 The donor bike… A 1971 Honda SL-100. This bike was given to me by my good friend, David Moore who rode this bike while he was in college back in the early eighties. The last time it was running was 1984. After a little carburetor work and a battery, it started right up. Unfortunately, the transmission wouldn’t shift. Since I was restoring the bike for my wife, we elected to install a Lifan 200 engine with electric start. 4 A couple of shots of the SL frame cleaned up, painted, and ready to accept the new engine. 5 Fresh out of the box and ready to install! The new 200cc Lifan engine from Hooper Imports 6 Left and right shots of the newly stabbed motor. All of the lower mount bolts lined right up – no drilling/cutting required. I could be wrong, but I think this engine actually went in easier than the Honda engine came out! 7 Uh oh! This won’t work. I’ll have to make a bracket for this. Maybe I’ll try running it for awhile without it and see if it really needs one. Top engine mount 8 The choke linkage just barely clears the frame. Connect your choke cable and fuel line before mounting the carburetor, or you will have to take it back off like I did. The new carburetor is larger than the original so you will have to either modify the boot or use a pod style filter. I went with a Uni. Carburetor issues 9 With the head pipe seated and bolted tightly in place, the muffler mount doesn’t line up. Mainly, because it hits the oil level indicator bubble on the right case, which the original Honda engine did not have. Exhaust pipe alignment issues 10 How I fixed the exhaust pipe clearance problem. First I cut out a section of the pipe and bolted the two pieces in place. Then I cut a piece of curved 1¼” ID exhaust pipe to “slip fit” over the existing pipe, tacked it in place, then removed the exhaust as a whole and welded it up. 11 Oops! The stock Honda clutch cable housing is too long. You’ll either need to shorten the housing by about an inch, as I did, or order a replacement Lifan 200 clutch cable. Honda clutch cable doesn’t fit. 12 Miscellaneous brackets I fabricated these out of .040” aluminum. The one on the left is for the rectifier and the one on the right is for the coil. The rectifier will mount to the battery box and the coil mount will attach to one of the original holes on the frame backbone. 13 Well, as it turns out I could not find a 12 volt battery small enough to fit the original Honda battery box. I tried modifying it, but didn’t like the results. Since I was going to have to do something about the air filter anyway, I scrapped the whole idea and decided to fabricate my own. I use manila file folders to make patterns. They work great, they’re cheap, and it allows you to make mistakes until you get the pattern right. Once you get it how you want, transfer it to your metal, and bend it up. The tabs sticking out are to mount the CDI unit and starter relay. Battery box/air filter housing issues 14 Here’s how the battery fits. And here it is installed in the bike. New battery box 15 Electrical The next slide is an adaptation of the wiring diagram found on Hooper Imports’ website. The only difference is that the Hooper diagram does not depict an ignition switch. I followed their wiring diagram exactly but could not get any spark. After several lengthy phone calls with Larry and Daniel at Hooper imports and a new CDI unit, we determined that I had a bad ground. I returned the CDI unit, fixed my ground and viola! I had spark. Here’s a few tips to help keep you out of trouble: 1. There’s a convenient bolt just below, and on, the stock Honda battery box that looks like it would be a perfect ground. Don’t be fooled…the battery box/air filter is mounted with rubber bushings so it is isolated from the frame (ground). Use a bolt directly to the frame and make sure you scrape the paint where it makes contact. ALWAYS confirm your grounds with a meter. 2. I have had solder-less (crimp style) connectors come loose and give me fits to try and troubleshoot. Now I always solder my electrical connections and protect them with heat shrink (electrical tape works too, but will eventually come off). 3. Use a good meter to check continuity of your connections (especially your grounds). 4. The way the stock Honda ignition switch is wired in, won’t prevent the Lifan from starting. If you wire it in to the starter circuit, you can still kick start the bike without the key. I wired mine into the kill switch wire. The only problem with this is that the electric starter will still crank with the key in the off position. The bike won’t start, but it will crank. A different ignition switch may fix this. 5. Most important….DON’T DEVIATE FROM THE HOOPER DIAGRAM! (except maybe the starter button. Will discuss later). 16 Wiring the Lifan 200cc Vertical Engine (all greens go to ground) Kill switch Starter button Key Starter relay (optional) CDI Not used Coil Starter Rectifier Black/Red Blue/White Black, not used Red Yellow Green with white stripe Engine Connector Pink -+ Battery 12 Vdc 17 Wiring Continued (starter button) The Hooper wiring diagram depicts a starter button that completes the (hot) power wire to the starter relay. This works fine and is how I wired the bike initially to get it running, but if you want to keep the bike looking stock you can use the lower right switch/throttle housing from an electric start equipped Honda CB/CL-175, CB/CL-350, etc. However, the Honda starter button is wired so that when you push it, the switch completes the ground, not supply power. So the change is to run the hot wire straight to the starter relay and connect the wire from the handlebar switch to the starter relay ground connection. Starter button Stock Honda Button Starter relay Starter -+ Battery 12 Vdc Change in wiring to use Honda switch 18 Wiring Continued (kill switch) If you plan to use the stock Honda kill switch, you will have to re-wire it where it connects to the system inside the headlight bucket. Remove the headlight and locate the two wires coming from the kill switch (one black one black w/white stripe) and unplug them. Connect one of the wires to a new wire coming from the CDI unit (per the Hooper diagram) (through the ignition switch if you use one) and the other wire to ground. Check your connections and function of the switch with your meter. 19 Wiring Continued (Lights) The Hooper diagram has no provisions for lights. The stock SL-100 uses a 6 volt system. The new Lifan 200 uses 12 volts. There are no issues with the wiring (it can handle the extra voltage) but the bulbs, however, can’t. If you apply 12 volts to the bulbs you will blow them all, and the headlight is not cheap. I see two ways that this can be handled: 1. Replace all the bulbs with 12 volt rated bulbs, or 2. I found an XL-125/Lifan 200 wiring diagram on the Yahoo Honda Clone group that depicts a 10 watt 3.61 ohm resistor connected to the white wire on the back of the headlight bulb and going to ground. This appears to be the only change. In theory this would reduce the amount of voltage applied to the lighting system. I’ll try this option and let you know how it works out. 20 The Finished Product (almost, I’ll tear it down this winter for new paint and re-cover the seat) Left side Right side 21 First Impressions With the exception of the wiring issues, this was a fairly simple conversion. The staff at Hooper Imports was very helpful and their customer service is over the top. The bike starts right up and runs great. Plenty of power with a good positive shift. Even though the stock Honda engine would start on the first or second kick, the electric start is wonderful when you have bad knees. I would recommend this conversion to anyone who has the basic mechanical/wiring skills to work on motorcycles. There is no frame modifications required and only requires a little fabrication of a few brackets. I welcome suggestions and comments and you can email them to me at [email protected]. I will update this information as I come across new items (such as the lighting when I figure it out). 22