Venice - Citi® Card Benefits

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Venice
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CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
luxecityguides.com
ESCAPING THE HORDES CAN
BE TRICKY, BUT VENTURE
BEYOND PIAZZA SAN
MARCO INTO THE CITY’S
LABYRINTHINE ALLEYS AND
WATERWAYS, AND YOU’LL BE
HANDSOMELY REWARDED...
character, and the Grand Canal weaving
through them in an inverted ‘S’. Taking
San Marco as the center; fanning north
to east is Castello; south is Dorsoduro,
which includes Giudecca (the isle further
south), west is Santa Croce with train/bus
termini Piazzale Roma in the western end,
plus San Polo with the Rialto market, and
northwest is vibey Cannaregio.
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
La Serenissima’s richly brocaded sleeve
hides a myriad of historic wonders and
artisanal gems, and though visitors to
the city far outweigh born and bred
Venetians, even the most hardened of
travelers can’t help but be captivated by
their first glimpse of this most iconic of
cities. Venice is made up of six sestieri
(quarters), each with its own distinct
Blah Blah
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• Apr, May and Oct have the best weather, • Transport: make like a Venetian and
work those gams by jumping on the
but Venetians love tourist-free Jan
vaporetti (buy a pass – 24/48/72-hr
when it’s foggy and wet one day, then
or 7-day); water taxis are spiffy but
clear the next, though many restaurants
charge like a wounded bull (>€80);
and shops shut
gondolas are purely for sightseeing, but
their cousin the traghetto is handy for
• Acqua Alta or ‘high water’ occurs
crossing the Grand Canal
Nov-Dec so be sure to bring your Pucci
gumboots, and prepare to be herded
• Many hotel rooms in Venice look onto
like cattle throughout the peak season
a wall and have either extortionate
from Mar-Nov
internet rates or no connection at all, so
do check ahead if either of these issues
• Events. Carnival: Jan/Feb for mask and
is critical for you
costume hell / carnevale.venezia.it;
Biennales: May-Nov, cool and creative
• Calle, Salizada, Ramo and Rio are
with Art and Architecture on alternate
streets (some resemble mere alleys),
years; Film Festival: Sep, red carpet
Ponte is bridge, Campo and Campiello
glam / labiennale.org
(C.llo) are squares, and Fondamenta
(F.ta) is a street along a canal
• Marco Polo Airport to town: 1.5hrs / €15
by Alilaguna ferry – scenic but slow,
• Street numbers are confusingly
all (bar orange and yellow) lines stop
assigned by sestieri, ask for the street
at San Marco (Giardinetti); water taxi:
name, landmark or closest Campo to be
20-30mins / €110 (the absolute best way
assured you’re in the right district
to arrive for your first time in Venice),
or €32 for a shared scenic route ride
/ bucintoroviaggi.com; 32mins / €6
• Most shops open around 10am-7pm
by ATVO bus to Piazzale Roma, then
Mon-Sat, close 3 hours for lunch, all day
connect to water buses (vaporetti) /
Sun and around Dec-Jan, except for the
atvo.it
most touristy places
P2
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
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• Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso is a
single shot, doppio is two, and milk in
coffee (eg. cappuccino) after midday
shouts ‘turista!’
• Aperitivi: a spritz con bitter or un’ombra
(a glass) of wine with cicchetti (think
tapas) around 6.30pm is vital to all
Venetians
• Public loos are €1.50 a wee, or you can
get a discounted daily pass (2 wees), or
weekly pass (7 wees) at veneziaunica.it
(no, we’re not kidding…)
• Italy’s international code is +39, the
area code for Venice is 041, which must
be dialed locally, and cell phones start
with 3
• In emergencies, dial 113 for police, or 118
for ambulance
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Antonia Miletto
GEMOLOGIST
Antonia Miletto is a graduate gemologist
from Venice, who has made New York
her home for fifteen years. Always
searching the world for the best examples
of the materials she loves – iridescent
gemstones, hard woods, acrylic resin and
‘occasional objects’ – she has developed
a distinctive line of jewelry that includes
rings, earrings, necklaces, cuffs and more.
The collection is handcrafted and cast in
18k gold by top-notch craftsmen in Italy,
with some of the pieces being one-of­
a-kind. Her works have been shown in
selected stores and private residences
across the US, and in 2007 she opened
her own boutique in the heart of Venice.
antoniamiletto.com
P3
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
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Antonia Miletto
WHAT’S THE ONE THING
EVERY VISITOR TO VENICE
MUST DO?
Take a midnight walk around Piazza
San Marco, looking at the magnificent
empty square and paying attention to the
midnight bell’s tone. It is the only bell of
the Campanile di Piazza San Marco that
survived the collapse of the tower in 1902
– it’s so special that it has a name, the
Marangona.
WHERE DO YOU RECOMMEND
FRIENDS STAY WHEN IN
VENICE?
I recommend Oltre il Giardino near the
Frari Basilica. It’s full of charm, quiet and
off the busy paths of the city. It has just
six rooms overlooking a green area that
is ideal for breakfast. It’s run by the family
of a Venetian friend.
WHAT’S THE BEST SOUVENIR
TO BRING BACK FROM
VENICE?
Of all the great traditional applied
arts of Venice, one of the few that still
remains is glass. My favorite artist is
Massimo Micheluzzi (see LUXE Loves),
and his studio is on Calle della Toletta, in
Dorsoduro.
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
WHAT ARE THREE OF YOUR
FAVORITE RESTAURANTS?
WHERE DO YOU GO TO
UNWIND?
Naranzaria. I love to sit outside looking
at the Grand Canal. Akira is the chef’s
name, and the raw fish is a must-try. The
wine from the Vistorta estate is also a
favorite. Trattoria Antiche Carampane
specializes in fresh fish – here I usually
order ‘frittura mista di pesce’, (mix fried)
fish from the Adriatic. And lastly, Al Covo
where everything is extremely good, but
my favorite dish is ‘cotoletta con patate
fritte’, veal cutlet with French fries.
I love food, therefore the Rialto Market
and the area around it is the place where
I go to relax. Every day fresh fruits,
vegetables and fish arrive from the
mainland and are gracefully displayed,
though the fish market is of course closed
on Monday. The best is the seasonal
produce from Mazzorbo Island, the
Garden of Venice. This is a treat for all
our senses. I find all my delicacies at
gourmet delicatessen Antica Drogheria
Mascari and at the cheese store Casa del
Parmigiano.
WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL
DELICACY AND WHERE IS IT
WORTH TRYING?
The local delicacies are the cicchetti,
small salty bites to eat while having an
aperitif. From small meat or fish balls,
to ‘baccala mantecato’ (a cream of
cod fish), to pieces of tasty cheese or
prosciutto over bread. The creativity of
the chef is essential, and for me, the best
cicchetti are at Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi
(Fondamenta Nani / Dorsoduro 992 /
+39 041 523 0034). It’s family-run, and
everything is handmade by the lady of the
house – fantastic!
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AMAN CANAL GRANDE
BAUER IL PALAZZO
JW MARRIOTT
Hotel
Hotel
Hotel
The lavish C.16th Palazzo Papadopoli in
San Polo is the location of the Aman’s
glorious Venetian resort, complete with
gilding, Tiepolo ceilings, frescoes and
C.18th Murano-glass chandeliers. With
24 mod-con suites, a restaurant, spa and
two delicious gardens (almost unheard of
on the Grand Canal), you’ll be spoilt and
serene in equal measure. Arrive by boat,
naturally.
Venetian style and discreet opulence at
the mouth of the fabled Grand Canal,
with gourmet canal-side De Pisis, B-Bar
for evening cocktails and live music, and
Settimo Cielo – the seventh floor alfresco
lounge and terrace with grandstand
views. Upgrade to a suite if you can, but
either way, be sure to arrange a room
with a view. At these prices, you don’t
want to be looking at a brick wall!
Palazzo Papadopoli / Calle Tiepolo 1364
San Polo / +39 041 270 7333
Campo San Moise / San Marco 1459
+39 041 520 7022
Sitting pretty on Sacca Sessola, the
largest of the islets in the Venetian
lagoon, this greenery-engulfed 1936-built
resort comprises a 5-star hotel, private
villas, and a spa with rooftop infinity
pool offering sunset views of Piazza San
Marco. Lush terraces, a vegetable garden
that feeds the island’s two restaurants,
zero-waste facilities, and locally sourced
finery, such as textiles by Rubelli, light
installations by Barovier & Toso, and
furniture crafted from Italian wood also
make this an eco-chic winner.
amanresorts.com
ilpalazzovenezia.com
Isola delle Rose / Laguna di San Marco
+39 041 296 8111
marriott.com
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IL RIDOTTO
ALLA MADONNA
I FIGLI DELLE STELLE
Dining
Dining
Dining
Teeny, glass and brick five-table dining
dynamo taking on the establishment with
its superb modern spins on traditional
classics that are fish-centric and
beautifully plated. Book well ahead and
don’t be surprised if romance is on the
menu along with calamari and cod!
Feeding generations of grateful Venetians
through the decades with the best
seafood the region has to offer, the nine
rooms of this friendly, simply decorated
trattoria with its wooden beams and
eclectic artwork buzz at lunch and dinner
with excited diners. The frutti di mare
risotto is exemplary.
Particularly in summer, when you can
dine on the few tables outside, it’s so
worth making the journey over the lagoon
to Giudecca for lunch or dinner at this
homely, but contemporary osteria with
its white and slate beach-house vibe.
Its waterfront position means chilled
lounging and great views to compliment
the robust, flavorsome fare.
Campo San Filippo e Giacomo
Castello 4509
+39 041 520 8280
Calle della Madonna / San Polo 594
+39 041 522 3824
ilridotto.com
ristoranteallamadonna.com
Fondamenta della Croce / Giudecca 70-71
+39 041 523 0004
ifiglidellestelle.it
RISTORANTE RIVIERA
ANICE STELLATO
BAR TERRAZZA DANIELI
Dining
Dining
Bar
Take your pre-booked table on the idyllic
waterfront patio of the molto bella
Ristorante Riviera, sitting smack bang
atop the Zattere al Ponte Lungo with
grand Giudecca canal panoramas. The
menu pays respect to traditional Venetian
flavours with a simply spectacular
signature salt-baked catch of the day,
while perfectly al dente pastas also
impress.
Fish takes the starring role at this off­
the-beaten-track treasure that prides
itself on perfect risotto and fritti as well
as classic Venetian dishes rendered fresh
and new with subtle twists. Just a handful
of canal-side tables and a simple woodpaneled interior far away from the hurly
burly – bliss!
Open from May to October (and weather
permitting), this spacious roof terrace
atop the Danieli with its gorgeous
panoramic lagoon views, is a veritable
magnet for the city’s style and society
crowd, but arrive there late afternoon as
it closes irresponsibly early.
Zattere al Ponte Lungo / Dorsudoro 1473
+39 041 522 7621
Fondamenta della Sensa
Cannaregio 3272
+39 041 720 744
Hotel Danieli
Riva degli Schiavoni / Castello 4196
+39 041 522 6480
danielihotelvenice.com
osterianicestellato.com
ristoranteriviera.it
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Intro
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UN MONDO DIVINO
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
COLLECTION
Bar
This little low-beamed, wine bar in a
converted butcher’s shop has developed
quite a following among both locals and
visitors for its delicious and extensive
range of cichetti and choice labels, with
over 40 wines offered by the glass. In the
summer months, sip and sup streetside.
Salizada San Canciano
Cannaregio 5984
+39 041 521 1093
10am-3pm & 5.30-10pm Tue-Sun
CHIESA DI SAN PANTALON
Activities
Activities
Peggy’s personal collection covering
European and American art of the first
half of the C.20th reads like a who’s who
of just about every stellar name in the
firmament. Housed in her own canalside
palazzo in Dorsoduro, you’ll find seminal
works, from Picasso and Giacometti to
Mondrian, Kandinsky and Pollock, and
there’s a natty cafe if gallery-itis sets in.
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni / Dorsoduro 701
+39 041 240 5411
guggenheim-venice.it
Don’t be fooled by the rather blah
exterior, this unassuming church is
home to one of the largest and most
beautiful painted canvasses in the world,
The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St
Pantalon by Giovanni Antonio Fumiani.
An afternoon of admiration may lead to
neck strain, but discovering the immense
baroque masterpiece and its exquisite
detail makes the crick (and recovery spa
session!) well worth it.
Campo San Pantalon / Dorsoduro
+39 041 523 5893
sanpantalon.it
LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA
LUIGI BEVILACQUA
MASSIMO MICHELUZZI
Activities
Shopping
Shopping
Venice’s much talked about bi-annual
celebration of contemporary arts is back,
and it’s bigger than ever. Opening its
exhibition doors from May until November
2015, the central exhibition entitled ‘All
the World’s Futures’ examines how artists
from across the globe respond to the
uncertain world around them through
their chosen medium, be it painting,
photography, dance, cinema or words. It’s
also a great excuse to sip on a spritz or
two, should the arty exchange ever grow
tiring.
Some of these sumptuous damasks,
velvets, satins, taffetas and brocades have
found their way into the White House and
even the Vatican. Made on original C.18th
wooden looms, they can also be woven to
your own design, or you can choose from
their delightful catalogue of over 3,500
patterns, ranging from chinoiserie to deco
and even tiger stripes.
Venetian-born Massimo’s much soughtafter contemporary glass designs range
from chandeliers to vases and decorative
vessels, featuring flowing forms and
statement-rich coloring, fusing traditional
techniques with modern aesthetics.
Various venues across the city
Or visit their retail outlet in Campo di
Santa Maria del Giglio / San Marco 2520
+39 041 241 0662
labiennale.org
Calle della Toletta / Dorsoduro 1071
+39 041 528 2190
Campiello della Comare
Santa Croce 1320 / +39 041 721 566
by appt. only
bevilacquatessuti.com
P7
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THE ORCHESTRAS AT CAFFÈS
FLORIAN AND QUADRI
SHOPS CLOSING FOR THREE
HOURS AT LUNCH
€10 to sit and hear them blast Vivaldi
over each other? No, thanks
A three-hour lunch, everyday?
PIGEONS IN PIAZZA SAN
MARCO
MENU TURISTICO
VENETIAN INTERNET
Either extortionate, cruelly slow or
completely non-existent
Put down that burger, Melvin
Vermin with wings, quit feeding them
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P9
ITALIAN MASTERCHEF
GONDOLIER TOURS
TAXI TIME
Eating your way through Venice is
certainly an indulgent, if not waistlinedestroying experience, but what good
is leaving the memories at the airport?
Learn to cook in ‘Cooking Contessa’
Enrica Rocca’s palazzo kitchen, with
market tours and wine pairings, and you
can recreate the flavors at home for
years to come.
Haggling on the waterside with a
gondolier is never a good look and all too
easily a passion killer, but book ahead
and you can arrange your own private
gondola tour tailored precisely to where
you want to go and what you want to see
at Gondolieri Travel, and what’s more,
they can arrange chocolates and flowers
for maximum romance too.
Waiting in line for public water transport
can be a bore in peak visitor months,
so why not consider zipping all around
town on your very own private, crewed
motorboat, or even have a go at driving
yourself with Brussa Is Boat.
DOGE’S DUNGEONS
PERSONAL GUIDE
Touring the astonishing Palazzo Ducale
(Doge’s Palace) is a must-do for every
visitor, but book well ahead and score
yourself one of the limited tickets on
the special Secret Itinerary Tour that
includes the Doge’s private rooms, torture
chambers and hidden passages.
Getting lost in the maze-like back streets
and alleys of the city when trying to shop
is all too easy, but arranging your own
personal guide to the best art, history,
food and artisans in the city from Walks
Inside Venice means you’ll never stray.
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
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Romance
Much like Paris, it’s rather difficult to find
anything in this city that isn’t considered
romantic. The sheer atmospheric beauty
of the endless tiny alleyways, mini
bridges, palazzos, and backstreet canals
with their gently lapping waves and
shabby-chic aura is heady stuff indeed.
Start your day the classic lovers’ way
with a gentle gondola tour of the canals
with Gondolieri Travel (see Drab vs Fab).
It’s hopelessly touristic, but hopelessly
knee-weakening too, and for that very
special moment they can arrange chocs,
flowers and bubbles. Back on dry land
head to Naranzaria, the always busy
canalside hipanista hub close to the Rialto
Market famed for its sushi – take a stroll
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
among the colorful displays of fresh fruit
and veg afterwards. Venice has a wealth
of shopping, but for true romance it has
to be jewelry, and Antonia Miletto (see
LUXE Insider) has the perfect balance of
distinctive and wearable art off to a tee.
Spa! You can never be pampered enough
on vacation and the Bauer’s Palladio Spa
is a real Betty. When you book, arrange
for a private water transfer to whisk
you over to Giudecca where you’ll find
two floors of spa with lagoon views, and
a whole slew of couples’ treatments,
including an open-air Magnolia Massage
in a private garden! Afterwards you
can wander in the idyllic flower-filled
gardens, before jetting back over the
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
water for supper at La Caravella. It’s ship
ahoy at this intimate, candlelit, cabinthemed osteria complete with helm and
capstan, but book well ahead in summer
to snag one of the lovely tables in the
pretty garden, where Cupid is always to
be found. All that remains is a peaceful
Prosecco nightcap on the waterside
terrace Bar Longhi at the famed Gritti
Palace hotel for the perfect end to the
ultimate, romantic day.
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Style
Despite the fact that Venice’s dwindling
remaining inhabitants rely ever more
heavily on tourism to keep afloat (no pun
intended), it certainly hasn’t hindered the
genetic Italian concept of la bella figura
amongst those remaining. Make sure you
put your best foot forward by stopping
first at delectable Setecento. Alessandro
Possati’s couture house specializes in
taking traditional, lavish brocades and
silks and conjuring them into unique,
red carpet-worthy gowns, as well as
jackets for dandies featuring all manner
of beautiful details like Murano glass
buttons and handmade lace. After your
custom appointment it’s time for lunch
at the Grand Canal Restaurant where
you will join the chic set and all their
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
glittery friends for plenty of waterside
air-kissing between sips of Prosecco. Now
it wouldn’t be Venice without visiting one
of the famed pair of caffès in Piazza San
Marco, but avoid the crowds and leave the
tourists to be deafened by the orchestras,
and instead head inside Caffè Florian
to the back bar where locals and cluey
visitors go for their post-lunch espresso.
Refreshed, it’s time to head over to
Palazzo Grassi – François Pinault took
over this gleaming white palace and had
it redesigned by Tadao Ando as a home
for rotating exhibits from his personal
collection. Culture done, it’s time for
cicchetti at a classic wine bar, the bacaro­
esque Osteria Enoteca San Marco, or if
you don’t mind a short journey head over
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LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
to Dorsoduro for Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi
(see LUXE Insider). Grab a vaporetti
and over the lagoon you go to Giudecca
to catch the sunset from your alfresco
table at the lesser-known Harry’s Dolci
followed by supper at I Figli delle Stelle
(see LUXE Loves). Stylish and far from the
madding crowd.
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Culture
It’s simply madness to think you
could even scratch the surface of the
extraordinary treasures of this city in one
day, but excepting all the major tourist
attractions, there are still masses of
wonderful experiences to be had. One
of the handiest ways to see as much as
you can, if your time is short, is to jump
aboard the Vaporetto dell’Arte. This
smart boat takes you to all the major
art stops along the Grand Canal like the
Accademia (be sure to see the ravishing
Carpaccios in rooms 20-21, as well as, of
course, the works of Bellini, Veronese and
Giorgione), and the Peggy Guggenheim
Collection (see LUXE Loves). Right on
the eastern tip of Dorsoduro is François
Pinault’s second gallery masterpiece,
once again in collaboration with Tadao
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LUXE VENICE
Intro
Ando, Punta Della Dogana. This dramatic
C.15th palazzo-turned-customs house is
host to a stellar cache of contemporary
art in themed rotations, and also the
rather convenient Dogana Café – perfect
for respite from an attack of museumfoot. For lunch head up to the Rialto
Bridge, and while it’s impossible to avoid
the crowds there, barely a few steps
away hidden in an alley you’ll find Alla
Madonna (see LUXE Loves), our all-time
favorite for seafood risotto. Suitably
feasted, it’s time for a real cultural and
historical treat. Before even arriving in
Venice you will have pre-booked your
Secret Itinerary Tour (see Drab vs Fab)
for an absolutely fascinating ‘backstage’
view of the terrifying goings on in the
infamous Doge’s Palace. Torture, secret
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
passages, clandestine meetings, hidden
rooms – the tour has the lot, and the
limited numbers allowed mean that for
once you’re not elbowed from pillar to
post. As sunset drifts over this most
beautiful of cities, treat yourself to a trip
down the Grand Canal on a private boat
from Brussa Is Boat (see Drab vs Fab) for
your very own Canaletto moment (don’t
forget your camera), before alighting for
an enchanting alfresco supper on the
canopied floating terrace of Lineadombra
in Dorsoduro. Perfetto.
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The Essentials
ROMANCE
STYLE
CULTURE
• Gondolieri Travel
(see Drab vs Fab)
• Setecento
Calle del Ridotto / San Marco 1388
+39 041 240 6908
sete-cento.it
• Vaporetto dell’Arte
Isola Nova del Tronchestto 32
+39 041 2424
vaporettoarte.com
• Grand Canal Restaurant
Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal
San Marco 1332
+39 041 520 0211
hotelmonacovenice.com
• Accademia
Campo della Carità / Dorsoduro 1050
+39 041 520 0345
gallerieaccademia.org
• Naranzaria
San Polo 130
+39 041 724 1035
naranzaria.it
• Antonia Miletto
(see LUXE Insider)
• Palladio Spa
Bauer Palladio Hotel
San Marco 1459
+39 041 520 7022
bauerhotels.com
• Caffè Florian
Piazza San Marco / San Marco 57
+39 041 520 5641
caffeflorian.com
• La Caravella
Via XXII Marzo / San Marco 2399
+39 041 520 8901
restaurantlacaravella.com
• Bar Longhi
The Gritti Palace
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio
San Marco 2467
+39 041 794 611
thegrittipalace.com
• Palazzo Grassi
Campo San Samuele / San Marco 3231
+39 041 523 1680
palazzograssi.it
• Osteria Enoteca San Marco
Frezzeria / San Marco 1610
+39 041 528 5242
osteriasanmarco.it
• Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi
(see LUXE Insider)
• Harry’s Dolci
Fondamenta San Biagio / Giudecca 773
+39 041 522 4844
cipriani.com
• I Figli delle Stelle
(see LUXE Loves)
P13
/
LUXE VENICE
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
• Peggy Guggenheim Collection
(see LUXE Loves)
• Punta Della Dogana
Campo San Samuele / Dorsoduro 2
+39 041 271 9039
palazzograssi.it
• Alla Madonna
(see LUXE Loves)
• Secret Itinerary Tour
(see Drab vs Fab)
• Doge’s Palace
Piazza San Marco 1
palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
• Brussa Is Boat
(see Drab vs Fab)
• Lineadombra
Ponte dell’Umiltà / Dorsoduro 19
+39 041 241 1881
ristorantelineadombra.com
LUXE Loathes
Drab vs. Fab
LUXE Itineraries