Route 1 - Valencia Region
Transcription
Route 1 - Valencia Region
RUTA1_1a21 OK ingles:rutas 02/07/10 13:24 Página 10 A territory of pastures, fortifications and woods accompany the traveller in Valencian lands bordering with Aragon and Catalonia Route 1 DIT ER RA NE AN SEA From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella 1 • Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Bárbara 2 • Water: Fonts del Llosar 3 • Village and Hermitage: El Llosar. Ermita Virgen del Llosar 4 • Church: Iglesia San Marcos 5 • Hermitage: Ermita de la Font 6 • Hermitage: Ermita San Marcos 7 • Hermitage: Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Naranja 8 • Farmstead: Masía Torre Juliana 9 • Farmhouse: Mas de Rafael 10 • Palatial home: Casa Palacio Sres. Todolella 11 • Romanesque village: Poblado Románico Saranyana 12 • Medieval bridge: Puente Medieval 13 • Hermitage: Ermita San Onofre 14 • Hermitage: Ermita del Roser 15 • Rock paintings: Pinturas rupestres Masía Morella La Vella 16 • Aqueduct: Acueducto de Santa Llúcia 17 • Farmhouse: Mas Ensegueres 18 • Bronze Age Site: Yacimiento Edad de Bronce Coratxà 19 • Waterfalls: Cascada Salt de Robert 20 • Reservoir: Embalse de Ulldecona RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 11 10 - 11 The region of Els Ports, in the interior of Castellón threshing sheds, cisterns, wells or water holes, mills, province, with its capital at Morella, offers rich and varied landscapes that deserve to be explored, enjoying silence, nature and secluded spots. Els Ports and the water troughs, snow pits, and lime kilns, as well as the use of the local stone for the construction of buildings, whether civil (Town Halls, palaces, official buildings in neighbouring lands of the Tinença de Benifassà border on the territories of Aragon and Catalonia, with surprising landscapes shaped by the use of stone, farmsteads and Holm oak woods scattered between ravines, peaks, rivers, forts, hermitages, and forests that invite us to get to know this rich inland area of the Region of Valencia. Historically this whole area has been closely linked with its capital and largest town: Morella, at the head of a vast territory that covered practically the whole of this zone. Captured from the Arabs in 1232, by Blasco de Alagón, it was the starting out point for the eventual creation of the kingdom of Valencia. Its strategic position, on the border with Aragon and Catalonia, gave rise to the building of many fortifications, mostly situated outside the centre of the town with its largely Arab origins. The whole area was of great importance during the Carlist wars, as Morella became the headquarters of General Cabrera ‘El Tigre (tiger) de Maestrazgo’. Many of these fortifications were irreparably destroyed or damaged during these wars, while others were rebuilt and enlarged. The region’s steep mountainous geography and the isolation of the centres of population led to the existence of a considerable number of fortified farmsteads. In fact, the greatest concentration of them in the Region of Valencia is on these lands. Visiting this area we will at all times be immersed in some rural and forested environments of great cultural value. The vegetation in the town, waterspouts for public access, public washing places, or lookout towers), or religious (hermitages, basilicas, churches, convents, sanctuaries, bell-towers, Calvaries [routes, often with steps, following the Stations of the Cross] and oratories). The use of stone for buildings in the area, worked artistically and intelligently, gives character to this region and blends the natural landscape with that built over the centuries by its inhabitants in a unique and unrepeatable symbiosis in Valencia’s mountainous interior. From Vilafranca to La Mata, between ravines and farmsteads We start the itinerary at Vilafranca, at over a thousand metres above sea level. Everything is surprising in this village of Els Ports, as nobody expects to find themselves in a prosperous industrial town in such isolated mountainous territories. Vilafranca offers the visitor different landscapes and some majestic panoramic views. Ravines, high mountains, farmsteads and dry-stone constructions scattered throughout the area contained within the official boundary of the town, give us an idea of how life used to be in these parts. Les Coves de Forcall, Fonts de Llosar, La Gotera, El Barranc de la Fos, and the Tossal dels Montilats at 1,656 metres, this area has juniper, Holm oak and Portuguese Oak are very interesting areas both for their own sake as for giving some excellent panoramic views of the regions which, along with dense pinewoods leave space for the best pasture lands in the whole of Valencian territory. The cultural heritage of the region of Els Ports is of Els Ports and L’Alt Maestrat. If we start the route through Vilafranca, we notice its streets and buildings on the Barranc de la Teuleria, over priceless, as it retains traditional buildings from the economic activities in the agricultural, livestock and forestry ways of life: farmsteads, animal pens in caves, which a patchwork of traditional market gardens can be seen with their channels for the rainwater and dry- livestock tracks, traditional walls marking the property boundaries, refuges, lambing sheds, winnowing and stone walls. Walking through Vilafranca is like going back in time. Crossing the Plaça d’En Basc d’Alagó we go down the Calle Major, arriving at the church, RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 12 Route 1 From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella declared a Place of Cultural Interest, and which houses inside, as a treasure, a Gothic altarpiece from 1429, by Bernat Serra. Walking through the old quarter, we can visit the Town Hall, which houses a 15th century altarpiece by Valentí Montoliu, the Hospital, the emblazoned houses or the stately home of the Brusca family, charming spots in this town in the interior of Castellón that differentiate the feel of the old part, from the new, as if it were a town within a small city. If we go out of the old quarter we come to the hermitages of Sant Roc and Santa Bárbara and the Calvary [route with the Stations of the Cross]. The best thing to do to enjoy and get to know the flora of Vilafranca is to walk through its environs. At Vilafranca we can find around seven hundred different species, among them: Holm oaks, pinewoods, oaks and Spanish junipers, as well as common juniper, lavender, winter savory and thyme. On this escape through Vilafranca, with a bit of luck we might also enjoy the privileged sight of birds of prey and mammals that are classified as endangered species, along with a diversity of small birds, reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates and even mountain goats. Not in vain is Vilafranca regarded as one of the areas of greatest richness in wildlife of the Region of Valencia. From Vilafranca, our route can take El Llosar as its destination, an architectural ensemble which consists of the 17th century hermitage of the Virgen de Llosar, an 18th century lodging house, Els Arcs de Pare Placid, from the 19th century, and various houses, in a peaceful setting of great aesthetic beauty. At the sanctuary of Vilafranca 40º 25' 40.80" N 0º 15' 46.80" W us back in time, especially when we visit the parish church dedicated to the Asunción, pretty baroque-style building from the 18th century. As we pass through Portell de Morella we cannot miss out a visit to the hermitages located in quiet and harmonious natural settings. The Ermita de la Font, dedicated to Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza, from the 16th to 17th centuries, and the 15th century Ermita de San Marcos in the neighbourhood Les Albaredes, are a recommended visit in the surroundings of Portell de Morella. We now head from Portell de Morella to La Mata, along an asphalted road which provides us with spectacular views among ravines, Holm oak woods and isolated farmsteads. On the stretch to La Mata, the surroundings of the river Cantavieja stand out, where the area of ‘Les Calderets’ is found, with some natural pools that are suitable for bathing, and the Masía Molí La Punta, a 16th century farmstead. To Morella, along the Cantavieja river and through Bergantes The municipality of La Mata is situated on the banks of the river Cantavieja, where forests of Spanish oak and Holm oak predominate. La Mata was one of the hamlets the Virgen del Llosar an image is venerated that was of Morella and experienced its greatest prosperity during found by a labourer at the end of the 14th century or beginning of the 15th. A mountain track leads from the sanctuary to Portell de Morella. The village of Portell de the Middle Ages, being an important livestock centre, this activity continuing today, along with unirrigated agriculture, mainly of cereals. Morella was a former hamlet of Morella, in which the remains of its old walls and towers are still to be found. Situated at 1,070 metres above sea level, the village has The village of La Mata spreads its urban centre of Arab origin uphill and clustered around its late 16th century parish church, dedicated to the Virgen de las Nieves and a mediaeval feel enfolding an urban group with just 260 inhabitants. Walking around its narrow streets takes which still maintains its Gothic structure. La Mata’s monuments deserve a view from the Town Hall, dating RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 13 12 - 13 from 1564, a building of architectural interest with a Town Hall with its prison. The public oven, a 13th century beautiful semi-circular entrance arch. The monuments include the 16th century palatial home of the Pedro y Lafiguera family, and the nearby hermitages of Santa Gothic structure, deserves a visit, as it is has been restored and is in use. Worth a special mention is the Cofradia or Lonja de la Bárbara, built in the 17th century, and San Gil, built in 1786. Between La Mata and Olocau del Rey, the CV-121 takes us uphill again through natural spots exceptional for their well-conserved forests of Holm oak. Along the way we can see old farmsteads amongst which those of Agustín and the Mas de Torreta stand out. Along the way to Olocau we will also discover the hermitages of San Marcos, from the 15th to 18th centuries, and the spectacularly located Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la Naranja at 1,150 metres, from the 13th century. Arriving in Olocau del Rey we find ourselves in a village built in a hollow and surrounded by high mountain ranges with strange shapes. Olocau forms an ensemble of unusual charm: landscapes, wildernesses and high solitary hills where the most diverse species of birds nest. The urban centre of Olocau del Rey itself is a marvellous ensemble for its well-conserved vernacular architecture, although the most eye-catching is the church of La Verge del Pópulo, from the 14th century, which contains a beautiful Romanesque sculpture of the Virgen de la Naranja from the 13th century, and the 16th century Lana, the 16th century Guild and Exchange building of the wool trade, which shows us the importance of the sheep rearing tradition that Olucau had. The urban ensemble is completed by the palatial home of the Marquis of Figueroa, from the 15th century. The way along the CV-122 between Olocau del Rey and Todolella is also very attractive for the traveller. On both sides of the route we find some beautiful farmsteads, like the Masía de Gaspar, those of Torre Juliana, Torre Morraja, Rafael and Arobagoes, all of them between hills that are easily over 1,000 metres. The solitude turns the journey into a stretch of stunning beauty, especially in the area of the ravine named Barranco La Crianzón. Arriving at Todolella, going steeply downhill, affords a lovely view of the whole ensemble, with the village nestled in under the protection of the castle, a 14th century mediaeval building known as the palatial home of the Señores de La Todolella. The castle-palace, built around a quadrangle, is outstanding for its grandeur and good style and was, undoubtedly, the residence of its first feudal lords. In this small municipality in the region of Els Ports, we must also dedicate a moment to visiting the 16th century parish church of Sant Bertomeu; the Town Hall, from the 18th century and the 16th century Casa del Diable. Within the municipal boundary of Todolella we can go to the remains of the Roman settlement of Saranyana: a place of interest where the boundary walls and the apse Vilafranca 40º 25' 28.80" N 0º 15' 58.80" W of a primitive Roman church are left, the town hall and a house of nobility. We head for Forcall and on the way, coming to the bed of the river Cantavieja, we will be surprised by the beautiful mediaeval bridge from the 14th and 15th centuries, and the nearby hermitage of Sant Onofre. Traditional market gardens lead us along flat roads through harmonious landscapes to the village of Forcall, situated at the original confluence of three rivers: the RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 14 Route 1 From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella Calders, Cantavieja and Bergantes. It is precisely this confluence and the shape of the pitchfork they form, that gives the place its name. Situated in a mountainous region, its chief economic activity is agriculture and livestock, as with other inland towns of the regions, however, with time inland tourism has been acquiring strength and the accommodation and restaurant offer in the area has increased. A gratifying stroll through Forcall’s secluded streets brings us to the Plaza Mayor, from the 16th century, and interesting monumental ensemble, as much for its size as for its porticoes and its palatial houses, amongst which the Casa de la Vila is notable, former Corn Exchange and now the Town Hall, it is also known as the house of the ‘escaletes’ referring to the projecting double flight of steps on its façade. Houses of noble families those of the Fort, Maçaners and Berga families, and the Osset-Miró palace, are some of the civil monuments that we can find in Forcall. One visit not to miss is to the Forn de la Vila, from the 13th century, and which is said to be the oldest public baking oven in use in Europe, built in 1246. On our quick trip to Forcall, we could also visit the hermitage of the Virgen de la Consolación and the parish church, with a bell tower fifty-five metres high. The presence of rivers enables the lands of Forcall to have many public waterspouts surrounded by lovely spots. So along the course of the river Caldes we find the Fuente de Santa Ana or de la salud [‘of health’], that of Filipeta and the Panera [breadbasket], and on the river Cantavieja, the Fuente de la Vila and the public washing place. Through mountains and past hermitages towards Morella We head for Xiva de Morella from Forcall. On the way we will enjoy the presence of strange mountains in the shape of molars, amongst which stand out that of the Roc and that of the Garumba, without forgetting the three hermitages of the Mare de Déu de la Consolaciò, incorporated into a privileged natural setting. The track La Mata el Portet 40º 35' 14.40" N 0º 17' 40.80" W climbing up the valley of the Xiva ravine, leads us to the urban centre of Xiva de Morella. The route is a haven of peace with landscapes of great beauty for the harmonious way the traditional activities are set out, with their farmhouses, fields of cereals, and the woodlands of pines and Holm oaks. On a small plain the village of Xiva de Morella appears. It is a charming town less than ten kilometres from Morella. Its urban ensemble invites us to make a quiet visit through the town. We find a former mansion, from the 17th century, which has been restored after accommodating the town’s schools and the town hall and which at present provides rural lodgings, the Fonda de Xiva. We must also go to the hermitage of El Roser, with its unusual Calvary at the entrance to a narrow limestone canyon. We head for Morella along a single-lane road for vehicles. The itinerary winds its way gently up through landscapes of great aesthetic strength, with dry-stone walls, isolated farmsteads and the silence. On our itinerary, in the direction of Morella, a track to the right brings us to the rock paintings of the Masía de Morella la Vella, along a road of great beauty, which testify to the presence of prehistoric man in these lands. Beyond a small hill, we will get our first view of Morella, on the slopes of a rocky mass crowned by the most famous castle in the region of Els Ports, at over 1,000 metres. The view is one of the most beautiful and powerful of the entire itinerary. The Santa Llúcia aqueduct will be our gateway into to the village on this route. It is a piece of Gothic civil engineering from the 14th century bringing the waters from various sources. It is essential to visit the castle. Its privileged position opens up majestic panoramic views of the region as a whole. Built making use of the rock, to reach the Morella RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 15 14 - 15 castle we will have passed by the city walls, raised during the 13th and 14th centuries. Among these mediaeval walls, the gates of La Nevera, Sant Miquel, Morella, Sant Mateu, Forcall and that of El Rei are noteworthy. The visit to Morella offers us the chance to lose ourselves among its urban layout stepped up the hillside and to visit the city’s gems like the Basilica de Santa María la Major, an obligatory visit for all those who come to this lovely town. A splendid gothic-style work, it brings together on the same façade the gate of the Apóstoles and that of Las Virgenes. Inside, in the part behind the choir, we find the Pórtico de Gloria sculpted in the form of a frieze. The unusual spiral stairway up to the choir stands out, and the three rose windows with original stained glass from the 14th century Valencian School. It does not do to forget, on this surprising walk around town, the 13th century convent of Sant Fransec, now the Ethnological museum, and the countless houses of the nobility which give the whole place the appearance of the rich and powerful mediaeval village that it must have been. Such is the beauty and value of the whole urban centre of Morella and its castle that in 1963 it was declared of Historic-Artistic Importance. It is at present designated a Place of Cultural Interest by the Valencian Government and the town council has applied to UNESCO for its recognition as a World Heritage site. River Cantavieja 40º 36' 51.00" N 0º 17' 36.60" W On the visit it is worth enjoying the cuisine of Morella with products from the area: lamb, pork, different types of Spanish sausage and hams. Among the most typical local dishes we can taste the Sopa Morellano [soup], ternasco [veal], robellones [local mushrooms] when in season, sopa de flan [a thin stock served with cubes of “flan” - egg custard - placed in the dish], and ‘flaons’ a sweet based on cottage cheese and almonds. The textile industry, one of Morella’s chief activities until the beginning of the 20th century, continues being the reason for which craftworkers continue to offer the typical blankets and warm outer garments so necessary in the cold winters of Morella and the region of Els Ports. In addition, among its businesses we can find various different shops selling crafts and local produce from the land. Forcall 40º 38' 46.20" N 0º 11' 56.40" W Through La Tinença de Benifassà towards the coast We continue the route that will bring us to La Tinença de Benifassà along the major national road N-232, although there are quieter stretches of the old route of the national road and without motor vehicles passing for those who chose to go by bike. If there is one region of Castellón province that conserves the beauty of the best natural environment, RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 16 Route 1 From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella then it is La Tinença de Benifassà, which has miraculously managed to conserve all its environmental heritage; not in vain does it contain one of the nature parks of the Region of Valencia, as well as one of the municipalities that, little by little, is recovering from the slow but inexorable rural exodus of the years of development. The Torre Miró pass, at 1,259 metres above sea level, is the highest point on the route and gateway from the west into La Tinença de Benifassà. The rugged landscapes of La Tinença are one of the most comforting surprises in the territory. Its peculiar geographical features make it, even today, extremely difficult to reach. La Tinença de Benifassà holds some of the most majestic landscapes in the Region of Valencia and an important biodiversity, the result of millions of years of evolution, natural spots of indescribable beauty, with a varied wildlife and great botanic richness. Crags and precipices, rocky masses, ravines and gullies, caverns and caves, and endless sierra and mountain range formations that rise to altitudes of over 1,300 metres, like the Tossal d’en Cervera and the Negret. The history of La Tinença is closely linked with the royal monastery of Santa María de Benifassà. Since 1967 the Carthusian charterhouse of Santa María de Benifassà is the only one in Spain that houses nuns, who follow the strict rules of the enclosed order. Of the great walled precinct of this female Carthusian charterhouse only the church may be visited, with the cloister and church being open to visitors only on Thursdays at midday. The presence of the monastery of Santa María is of vital importance for the area, since without it the hamlets inhabited in La Tinença from the 13th century onwards would not have existed. The lives of the inhabitants of the area were closely linked to the monastery, since many survived thanks to the protection offered and the alms the monastery gave to the local people. Within the official boundaries of La Tinença there are wild boars roaming freely, beech martens and badgers, and we Morella 40º 37' 8.40" N 0º 6' 0.60" W can see the Iberian or Spanish ibex or wild goat, and mouflon [wild sheep]. We leave La Tinença through the Torremiró pass, by way of the Ulldecona y la Sénia reservoir, taking the CV-105, enjoying some privileged and spectacular landscapes, with heights that are continually in excess of 1,000 metres above sea level. These mountain ranges, the most magnificent in the Region of Valencia, offer lovely panoramic views along our way, a “lonely” road only occasionally interrupted by a few sparsely inhabited hamlets. This is the case of Herbés, where we can make a stop to visit its 16th century church, Castell de Cabres, El Boixar and Coratxà. Along the route we will notice the smoke from isolated farmsteads, the flight of some birds of prey, like vultures and eagles, and a few occasional hikers. We reach Castell de Cabres, whose urban centre is of Arab origin, situated at over 1,100 metres above sea level. The isolation and silence of the place impress the visitor. Historically, Castell de Cabres was a mining town, where the coal miners sold the coal to Morella. Following that Morella 40º 37' 8.40" N 0º 6' 0.60" W RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 17 16 - 17 route we find the 18th century parish church of Sant Llorenç, which houses the patron saint of the area, whose feast day is celebrated on the first Sunday in September. Leaving Castell de Cabres behind, the landscape is seen to be enriched by leafy patches, chiefly of pines, and we come across farmsteads like the Masía d’En Segures. Livestock and forestry are the main activities of its inhabitants. Along the way we reach El Boixar, where nowadays barely a dozen people live. The name of the place derives from ‘boix’, boxwood in English, an evergreen shrub that abounds in the vicinity and its very hard wood is used to make furniture and agricultural implements. The hamlet is surprisingly situated amidst a sea of valleys and steep ravines. Within the urban centre of Boixar we can visit the Town hall and the 18th century church of the Asunción, which has a Romanesque porch and the belfry is an unusual finish. From El Boixar a narrow road sets out that comes to a dead end in the town of Coratxà. The itinerary, surrounded by pines, Holm oaks and Spanish oaks, is worth enjoying, and if our visit coincides with autumn we will be able to enjoy the delightful scenes full of red, and ochre shades. After a winding path we see the urban image of Coratxà, at over 1,200 metres, rivalling Vistabella del Maestrazgo to be the highest village in the Region of Valencia. In fact, due to its privileged strategic position regarding the defence of the area, it had two forts on the top of the twin hills where the houses of the town stand. Obligatory visits are the unusual lime (or linden) tree in the plaza, the Romanesque style church of San Jaime, built in 1247, mountain passes as far as the town of Tortosa. The small hamlet of Fredes is a haven of peace and tranquillity. Wandering around its quiet streets will take us to the parish church dedicated to the Santos Mártires, built in 1725. From Fredes a path takes us to the Fou ravine, passing through some charming settings like the Portell de l’Infern pass or the Salt de Robert waterfall. From El Boixar, a road takes us down hill to reach Ballestar and La Pobla de Benifassà. The landscape of the area is rugged and mountainous of great botanical importance, with plants unique to these spots and which give shelter to a very diverse wildlife. The western part of this valley is higher and narrows towards Vallibona and Morella, enclosing a dell of almond trees which, between the months of January and February explode into blossom, announcing the arrival of the short, but intense, Spring. Arriving in Pobla de Benifassà we look around its centre, where our attention is caught by its stone houses and wooden balconies, and obligatory visits will be the church dedicated to the Asunción and curious features like the restored public washing place and the unusual Chopo de la Font Lluny [black poplar at the Lluny water with its porticoes and wide belfry, the cemetery which spout]. has some ancient carved stone christograms. In the nearby Polvorí cave we can also visit a Bronze Age site. The town of Coratxà and its environs form a setting of We reach our next destination, Ballestar. Approaching La Tinença from the Ulldecona reservoir there is a captivating view of this village, with its houses scattered beauty and unapproachable silence, a captivating place but with unimaginably harsh winters. Returning to our route, we head for the town of Fredes, over the slopes of a hill of evidently defensive memories. The hamlet is an extraordinary artistichistoric ensemble and its streets with stone buildings the gateway to a forestry track that makes it possible to cross the whole group of the Puertos de Beceite and lovely wooden balconies conceal the parish church, with a beautiful Romanesque façade started in La Tinença de Benifassà 40º 40' 19.79" N 0º 7' 58.80" E RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 18 Route 1 From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella the 13th century, on which may be seen, under the clock, a representation in stone of a Cistercian knight. We will also make a visit to its particular cemetery and to the Iberian era archaeological site of La Morranda. We go down by roads that will take us to the wall of the Ulldecona reservoir. From there a mountain path sets out bordering the Fou ravine, where we will discover maples, hazels, elms, limes or lindens, and poplars, which in autumn paint the area with different shades of ochre. In wetter parts of the ravine we can find holly and willow. Past the Ulldecona reservoir, following the course of the river Sena, we will discover secluded pools of water that are suitable for bathing, and some olive trees over a thousand years old, since the olive was one of the traditional crops in the area. Between the olive groves and the first citrus orchards, getting closer to the coast, we discover San Rafael del Río, whose old centre deserves to be visited. Finally the route will take us to Vinaròs, our last destination. This coastal town offers two faces, the port and the town centre. The port, with an important fishing industry, started being constructed in 1866, although it was not opened until ten years later. With time, the port was protected by the construction of a parallel western quay and a transversal eastern quay have also been added. If we head for the centre of the town we will be able to visit the 16th century Gothic church of Mare de Déu de Monastery of Santa María de Benifassà 40º 40' 40.80" N 0º 11' 22.20" E Vinaròs 40º 28' 14.39" N 0º 28' 30.00" E la Asunción, with a beautiful baroque front, and which was declared a Monument of Artistic-Historic importance in 1978. Amongst other monuments, it is worth going to see the church of San Agustín, at present used as the municipal auditorium; the 17th century Town Hall, the municipal market opened in 1928, and the bullring, built near the sea and the largest of its class. The port and beaches, packed during summer, are an invitation for a pleasant stroll in the winter. In the surroundings we will be able to visit the hermitages of Nuestra Señora de la Misericordia and San Sebastian. They are whitewashed buildings, situated on a little hill known as El Puig, from where a pretty panorama can be seen. A few metres from the town we can end our route visiting the hermitage of San Gregorio, a beautiful 18th century church built by the Augustine friar Pere Tonel. Practical information Fiestas, food and crafts Festivities in the highlands of Els Ports have their own names throughout the year. In Todolella its exclusive and complicated ‘war dance’ is held. For its part, Forcall is famous for its Santantonada fiesta, dedicated to San Antonio, with its ‘dimonis’ [demons] and a bonfire with a narrow tunnel of vegetation through the middle enabling the brave to pass through, and which is the most original of all those dedicated to this saint in the area. There are also the pilgrimages and religious processions, L’Anunci, and the well-known Sexenni de Morella, celebrated as its name suggests, every six years. On lower land approaching Vinaròs, romerías [local RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 19 18 - 19 Vinaròs 40º 27' 57.00" N 0º 28' 36.60" E pilgrimages or religious processions to nearby sanctuaries or hermitages], carnivals [to mark the beginning of Lent] and maritime festivals are common in many towns. In craftwork, the fame of the rope-soled shoes made from hemp lives on, blankets from Morella and bed covers and curtains, an inheritance from the handmade textile tradition in the area. Regarding the cuisine, produce from the sea is the basis of the cuisine in the coastal area, with its fish and seafood, the prawn of Vinaròs notable among them. Inland the olla or puchero - hearty stews based on chick peas, Spanish sausage and bacon fat, as well as ham and cecina [other cured meats like beef, horse, goat etc]; along with dishes such as recapte [grilled vegetables like peppers and aubergines, used to prepare other dishes too]. And among the most noteworthy sweets: ‘flaons’, a typical sweet pastry turnover filled with requesón [a ricotta-style cheese] and ground almonds; coquetes [small tarts], or magdalenas [like fairy cakes], almendrados [almond macaroons], mantecados [traditional Christmas biscuits], and buñuelos [like doughnuts] with honey. Recommended time of year Any time of the year is good, except for the coldest days with their northern gales, in the winter of Els Ports and La Tinença de Benifassà. From the end of January to mid-March we can enjoy the colourful landscapes of almond and cherry trees in blossom. In autumn we will be dazzled by the colours of Vinaròs 40º 28' 13.80" N 0º 28' 29.40" E RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 20 Route 1 From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella the deciduous trees like maples, oaks and ash in the area set out early so as to make the most of the early hours of of La Tinença, and the beautiful hues of brown, orange and ochre of the canopy of trees. It is recommended not to miss the snow-covered landscapes of Els Ports and La the morning or at dusk. They are the best times of day to travel as the temperature is agreeable and the light is especially good. The route can also be done by car along Tinença in winter or even spring. the roads and forest tracks that are indicated, although it is advisable, for venturing along some of the rougher tracks, to use an all-terrain or 4WD type vehicle. In this case one must not abandon the marked route. In order to get to know the area in detail the most recommended is to leave the vehicle parked somewhere safe and secure and walk the innumerable official footpaths and get to the most beautiful spots. Public transport Regional trains stop at the station in Vinaròs. Bicycles are transported free of charge on the trains. There are public bus services from Castellón de la Plana to Vilafranca and from Vinaròs to Morella. Recommendations If the sportier people want to do the route by bike, it is a good idea to use a mountain bike for this route. It must be taken into account that away from urban centres there are not too many waterspouts on the route so it is advisable to replenish supplies whenever you have the chance. To do the trips on this route it is a good idea to RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY: National Geographic Institute Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 569-II, 544-IV, 544-II, 545-I, 520-III, 545-III, 520-IV, 521-III, 546-I, 546-II, 546-IV, 571-II. Further information: www.comunitatvalenciana.com Information on regional and local trains: Renfe 902 24 02 02. www.renfe.es TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE: Tourist Info Cinctorres Carrer Nou, 6 12316 Cinctorres Tel. 964 18 14 17 [email protected] Tourist Info Forcall C/ Carmen, 21 12310 Forcall Tel. 964 17 12 90 Fax 964 17 10 01 [email protected] Tourist Info Morella Pl. de San Miguel, s/n 12300 Morella Tel. 964 17 30 32 Fax 964 161 071 [email protected] Tourist Info Tinença de Benifassà Ctra. La Sènia-La Pobla de Benifassà, Km. 5 (next to Molí de l’Abad) 12599 La Pobla de Benifassà Tel. 977 71 34 18 [email protected] Tourist Info Vilafranca Pl. Iglesia, 6. 12150 Vilafranca Tel. 964 44 14 32 Fax 964 44 01 83 [email protected] Tourist Info Vinaròs Zona Nord. (Temporary) Pº de San Pedro, s/n 12500 Vinaròs [email protected] Tourist Info Vinaròs Pl. Jovellar, 2 12500 Vinaròs Tel. 964 45 33 34 Fax 964 45 56 25 [email protected] Tourist Info Vinaròs Zona Sud. (Temporary) Av. Pablo Béjar, s/n (Playa de Clot -Clot beach) 12500 Vinaròs [email protected] RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 21 Pobla de Bellestar 40º 27' 51.01" N 0º 18' 42.00" W 20 - 21