Route 1 - Valencia Region

Transcription

Route 1 - Valencia Region
RUTA1_1a21 OK ingles:rutas 02/07/10 13:24 Página 10
A territory of pastures, fortifications and woods
accompany the traveller in Valencian lands
bordering with Aragon and Catalonia
Route 1
DIT
ER
RA
NE
AN
SEA
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs
passing through Morella
1 • Hermitage: Ermita de Santa Bárbara
2 • Water: Fonts del Llosar
3 • Village and Hermitage: El Llosar. Ermita
Virgen del Llosar
4 • Church: Iglesia San Marcos
5 • Hermitage: Ermita de la Font
6 • Hermitage: Ermita San Marcos
7 • Hermitage: Ermita de Nuestra Señora de
la Naranja
8 • Farmstead: Masía Torre Juliana
9 • Farmhouse: Mas de Rafael
10 • Palatial home: Casa Palacio
Sres. Todolella
11 • Romanesque village: Poblado Románico
Saranyana
12 • Medieval bridge: Puente Medieval
13 • Hermitage: Ermita San Onofre
14 • Hermitage: Ermita del Roser
15 • Rock paintings: Pinturas rupestres Masía
Morella La Vella
16 • Aqueduct: Acueducto de Santa Llúcia
17 • Farmhouse: Mas Ensegueres
18 • Bronze Age Site: Yacimiento Edad de
Bronce Coratxà
19 • Waterfalls: Cascada Salt de Robert
20 • Reservoir: Embalse de Ulldecona
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 11
10 - 11
The region of Els Ports, in the interior of Castellón
threshing sheds, cisterns, wells or water holes, mills,
province, with its capital at Morella, offers rich and
varied landscapes that deserve to be explored, enjoying
silence, nature and secluded spots. Els Ports and the
water troughs, snow pits, and lime kilns, as well as the
use of the local stone for the construction of buildings,
whether civil (Town Halls, palaces, official buildings in
neighbouring lands of the Tinença de Benifassà border
on the territories of Aragon and Catalonia, with
surprising landscapes shaped by the use of stone,
farmsteads and Holm oak woods scattered between
ravines, peaks, rivers, forts, hermitages, and forests that
invite us to get to know this rich inland area of the
Region of Valencia. Historically this whole area has been
closely linked with its capital and largest town: Morella,
at the head of a vast territory that covered practically
the whole of this zone. Captured from the Arabs in
1232, by Blasco de Alagón, it was the starting out point
for the eventual creation of the kingdom of Valencia.
Its strategic position, on the border with Aragon and
Catalonia, gave rise to the building of many
fortifications, mostly situated outside the centre of the
town with its largely Arab origins. The whole area was of
great importance during the Carlist wars, as Morella
became the headquarters of General Cabrera ‘El Tigre
(tiger) de Maestrazgo’. Many of these fortifications were
irreparably destroyed or damaged during these wars,
while others were rebuilt and enlarged. The region’s
steep mountainous geography and the isolation of the
centres of population led to the existence of a
considerable number of fortified farmsteads. In fact, the
greatest concentration of them in the Region of
Valencia is on these lands. Visiting this area we will at all
times be immersed in some rural and forested
environments of great cultural value. The vegetation in
the town, waterspouts for public access, public washing
places, or lookout towers), or religious (hermitages,
basilicas, churches, convents, sanctuaries, bell-towers,
Calvaries [routes, often with steps, following the
Stations of the Cross] and oratories). The use of stone for
buildings in the area, worked artistically and
intelligently, gives character to this region and blends
the natural landscape with that built over the centuries
by its inhabitants in a unique and unrepeatable
symbiosis in Valencia’s mountainous interior.
From Vilafranca to La Mata,
between ravines and farmsteads
We start the itinerary at Vilafranca, at over a thousand
metres above sea level. Everything is surprising in this
village of Els Ports, as nobody expects to find
themselves in a prosperous industrial town in such
isolated mountainous territories. Vilafranca offers the
visitor different landscapes and some majestic
panoramic views. Ravines, high mountains, farmsteads
and dry-stone constructions scattered throughout the
area contained within the official boundary of the town,
give us an idea of how life used to be in these parts. Les
Coves de Forcall, Fonts de Llosar, La Gotera, El Barranc
de la Fos, and the Tossal dels Montilats at 1,656 metres,
this area has juniper, Holm oak and Portuguese Oak
are very interesting areas both for their own sake as for
giving some excellent panoramic views of the regions
which, along with dense pinewoods leave space for the
best pasture lands in the whole of Valencian territory.
The cultural heritage of the region of Els Ports is
of Els Ports and L’Alt Maestrat.
If we start the route through Vilafranca, we notice its
streets and buildings on the Barranc de la Teuleria, over
priceless, as it retains traditional buildings from the
economic activities in the agricultural, livestock and
forestry ways of life: farmsteads, animal pens in caves,
which a patchwork of traditional market gardens can be
seen with their channels for the rainwater and dry-
livestock tracks, traditional walls marking the property
boundaries, refuges, lambing sheds, winnowing and
stone walls. Walking through Vilafranca is like going
back in time. Crossing the Plaça d’En Basc d’Alagó we
go down the Calle Major, arriving at the church,
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 12
Route 1
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella
declared a Place of Cultural Interest, and which houses
inside, as a treasure, a Gothic altarpiece from 1429, by
Bernat Serra.
Walking through the old quarter, we can visit the Town
Hall, which houses a 15th century altarpiece by Valentí
Montoliu, the Hospital, the emblazoned houses or the
stately home of the Brusca family, charming spots in
this town in the interior of Castellón that differentiate
the feel of the old part, from the new, as if it were a
town within a small city. If we go out of the old quarter
we come to the hermitages of Sant Roc and Santa
Bárbara and the Calvary [route with the Stations of the
Cross].
The best thing to do to enjoy and get to know the flora
of Vilafranca is to walk through its environs. At Vilafranca
we can find around seven hundred different species,
among them: Holm oaks, pinewoods, oaks and Spanish
junipers, as well as common juniper, lavender, winter
savory and thyme. On this escape through Vilafranca,
with a bit of luck we might also enjoy the privileged
sight of birds of prey and mammals that are classified as
endangered species, along with a diversity of small
birds, reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates and even
mountain goats. Not in vain is Vilafranca regarded as
one of the areas of greatest richness in wildlife of the
Region of Valencia.
From Vilafranca, our route can take El Llosar as its
destination, an architectural ensemble which consists of
the 17th century hermitage of the Virgen de Llosar, an
18th century lodging house, Els Arcs de Pare Placid,
from the 19th century, and various houses, in a peaceful
setting of great aesthetic beauty. At the sanctuary of
Vilafranca 40º 25' 40.80" N 0º 15' 46.80" W
us back in time, especially when we visit the parish
church dedicated to the Asunción, pretty baroque-style
building from the 18th century. As we pass through
Portell de Morella we cannot miss out a visit to the
hermitages located in quiet and harmonious natural
settings. The Ermita de la Font, dedicated to Nuestra
Señora de la Esperanza, from the 16th to 17th centuries,
and the 15th century Ermita de San Marcos in the
neighbourhood Les Albaredes, are a recommended visit
in the surroundings of Portell de Morella.
We now head from Portell de Morella to La Mata, along
an asphalted road which provides us with spectacular
views among ravines, Holm oak woods and isolated
farmsteads. On the stretch to La Mata, the surroundings
of the river Cantavieja stand out, where the area of ‘Les
Calderets’ is found, with some natural pools that are
suitable for bathing, and the Masía Molí La Punta, a 16th
century farmstead.
To Morella, along the Cantavieja
river and through Bergantes
The municipality of La Mata is situated on the banks of
the river Cantavieja, where forests of Spanish oak and
Holm oak predominate. La Mata was one of the hamlets
the Virgen del Llosar an image is venerated that was
of Morella and experienced its greatest prosperity during
found by a labourer at the end of the 14th century or
beginning of the 15th. A mountain track leads from the
sanctuary to Portell de Morella. The village of Portell de
the Middle Ages, being an important livestock centre,
this activity continuing today, along with unirrigated
agriculture, mainly of cereals.
Morella was a former hamlet of Morella, in which the
remains of its old walls and towers are still to be found.
Situated at 1,070 metres above sea level, the village has
The village of La Mata spreads its urban centre of Arab
origin uphill and clustered around its late 16th century
parish church, dedicated to the Virgen de las Nieves and
a mediaeval feel enfolding an urban group with just
260 inhabitants. Walking around its narrow streets takes
which still maintains its Gothic structure. La Mata’s
monuments deserve a view from the Town Hall, dating
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 13
12 - 13
from 1564, a building of architectural interest with a
Town Hall with its prison. The public oven, a 13th century
beautiful semi-circular entrance arch. The monuments
include the 16th century palatial home of the Pedro y
Lafiguera family, and the nearby hermitages of Santa
Gothic structure, deserves a visit, as it is has been
restored and is in use.
Worth a special mention is the Cofradia or Lonja de la
Bárbara, built in the 17th century, and San Gil, built in
1786.
Between La Mata and Olocau del Rey, the CV-121 takes
us uphill again through natural spots exceptional for
their well-conserved forests of Holm oak. Along the way
we can see old farmsteads amongst which those of
Agustín and the Mas de Torreta stand out. Along the way
to Olocau we will also discover the hermitages of San
Marcos, from the 15th to 18th centuries, and the
spectacularly located Ermita de Nuestra Señora de la
Naranja at 1,150 metres, from the 13th century. Arriving
in Olocau del Rey we find ourselves in a village built in a
hollow and surrounded by high mountain ranges with
strange shapes. Olocau forms an ensemble of unusual
charm: landscapes, wildernesses and high solitary hills
where the most diverse species of birds nest.
The urban centre of Olocau del Rey itself is a marvellous
ensemble for its well-conserved vernacular architecture,
although the most eye-catching is the church of La
Verge del Pópulo, from the 14th century, which contains
a beautiful Romanesque sculpture of the Virgen de la
Naranja from the 13th century, and the 16th century
Lana, the 16th century Guild and Exchange building of
the wool trade, which shows us the importance of the
sheep rearing tradition that Olucau had. The urban
ensemble is completed by the palatial home of the
Marquis of Figueroa, from the 15th century.
The way along the CV-122 between Olocau del Rey and
Todolella is also very attractive for the traveller. On both
sides of the route we find some beautiful farmsteads, like
the Masía de Gaspar, those of Torre Juliana, Torre Morraja,
Rafael and Arobagoes, all of them between hills that are
easily over 1,000 metres. The solitude turns the journey
into a stretch of stunning beauty, especially in the area of
the ravine named Barranco La Crianzón.
Arriving at Todolella, going steeply downhill, affords a
lovely view of the whole ensemble, with the village
nestled in under the protection of the castle, a 14th
century mediaeval building known as the palatial home
of the Señores de La Todolella. The castle-palace, built
around a quadrangle, is outstanding for its grandeur and
good style and was, undoubtedly, the residence of its
first feudal lords. In this small municipality in the region
of Els Ports, we must also dedicate a moment to visiting
the 16th century parish church of Sant Bertomeu; the
Town Hall, from the 18th century and the 16th century
Casa del Diable.
Within the municipal boundary of Todolella we can go to
the remains of the Roman settlement of Saranyana: a
place of interest where the boundary walls and the apse
Vilafranca 40º 25' 28.80" N 0º 15' 58.80" W
of a primitive Roman church are left, the town hall and a
house of nobility. We head for Forcall and on the way,
coming to the bed of the river Cantavieja, we will be
surprised by the beautiful mediaeval bridge from the
14th and 15th centuries, and the nearby hermitage of
Sant Onofre.
Traditional market gardens lead us along flat roads
through harmonious landscapes to the village of Forcall,
situated at the original confluence of three rivers: the
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 14
Route 1
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella
Calders, Cantavieja and Bergantes. It is precisely this
confluence and the shape of the pitchfork they form,
that gives the place its name.
Situated in a mountainous region, its chief economic
activity is agriculture and livestock, as with other inland
towns of the regions, however, with time inland tourism
has been acquiring strength and the accommodation
and restaurant offer in the area has increased.
A gratifying stroll through Forcall’s secluded streets
brings us to the Plaza Mayor, from the 16th century, and
interesting monumental ensemble, as much for its size
as for its porticoes and its palatial houses, amongst
which the Casa de la Vila is notable, former Corn
Exchange and now the Town Hall, it is also known as the
house of the ‘escaletes’ referring to the projecting double
flight of steps on its façade. Houses of noble families
those of the Fort, Maçaners and Berga families, and the
Osset-Miró palace, are some of the civil monuments that
we can find in Forcall. One visit not to miss is to the Forn
de la Vila, from the 13th century, and which is said to be
the oldest public baking oven in use in Europe, built in
1246. On our quick trip to Forcall, we could also visit the
hermitage of the Virgen de la Consolación and the parish
church, with a bell tower fifty-five metres high.
The presence of rivers enables the lands of Forcall to
have many public waterspouts surrounded by lovely
spots. So along the course of the river Caldes we find the
Fuente de Santa Ana or de la salud [‘of health’], that of
Filipeta and the Panera [breadbasket], and on the river
Cantavieja, the Fuente de la Vila and the public washing
place.
Through mountains and past
hermitages towards Morella
We head for Xiva de Morella from Forcall. On the way we
will enjoy the presence of strange mountains in the
shape of molars, amongst which stand out that of the
Roc and that of the Garumba, without forgetting the
three hermitages of the Mare de Déu de la Consolaciò,
incorporated into a privileged natural setting. The track
La Mata el Portet 40º 35' 14.40" N 0º 17' 40.80" W
climbing up the valley of the Xiva ravine, leads us to the
urban centre of Xiva de Morella. The route is a haven of
peace with landscapes of great beauty for the
harmonious way the traditional activities are set out, with
their farmhouses, fields of cereals, and the woodlands of
pines and Holm oaks. On a small plain the village of Xiva
de Morella appears. It is a charming town less than ten
kilometres from Morella. Its urban ensemble invites us to
make a quiet visit through the town. We find a former
mansion, from the 17th century, which has been
restored after accommodating the town’s schools and
the town hall and which at present provides rural
lodgings, the Fonda de Xiva.
We must also go to the hermitage of El Roser, with its
unusual Calvary at the entrance to a narrow limestone
canyon.
We head for Morella along a single-lane road for vehicles.
The itinerary winds its way gently up through landscapes
of great aesthetic strength, with dry-stone walls, isolated
farmsteads and the silence.
On our itinerary, in the direction of Morella, a track to the
right brings us to the rock paintings of the Masía de
Morella la Vella, along a road of great beauty, which
testify to the presence of prehistoric man in these lands.
Beyond a small hill, we will get our first view of Morella,
on the slopes of a rocky mass crowned by the most
famous castle in the region of Els Ports, at over 1,000
metres. The view is one of the most beautiful and
powerful of the entire itinerary.
The Santa Llúcia aqueduct will be our gateway into to
the village on this route. It is a piece of Gothic civil
engineering from the 14th century bringing the waters
from various sources.
It is essential to visit the castle. Its privileged position
opens up majestic panoramic views of the region as a
whole. Built making use of the rock, to reach the Morella
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 15
14 - 15
castle we will have passed by the city walls, raised during
the 13th and 14th centuries. Among these mediaeval
walls, the gates of La Nevera, Sant Miquel, Morella, Sant
Mateu, Forcall and that of El Rei are noteworthy.
The visit to Morella offers us the chance to lose ourselves
among its urban layout stepped up the hillside and to
visit the city’s gems like the Basilica de Santa María la
Major, an obligatory visit for all those who come to this
lovely town. A splendid gothic-style work, it brings
together on the same façade the gate of the Apóstoles
and that of Las Virgenes. Inside, in the part behind the
choir, we find the Pórtico de Gloria sculpted in the form
of a frieze. The unusual spiral stairway up to the choir
stands out, and the three rose windows with original
stained glass from the 14th century Valencian School.
It does not do to forget, on this surprising walk around
town, the 13th century convent of Sant Fransec, now the
Ethnological museum, and the countless houses of the
nobility which give the whole place the appearance of
the rich and powerful mediaeval village that it must have
been.
Such is the beauty and value of the whole urban centre
of Morella and its castle that in 1963 it was declared of
Historic-Artistic Importance. It is at present designated a
Place of Cultural Interest by the Valencian Government
and the town council has applied to UNESCO for its
recognition as a World Heritage site.
River Cantavieja 40º 36' 51.00" N 0º 17' 36.60" W
On the visit it is worth enjoying the cuisine of Morella
with products from the area: lamb, pork, different types
of Spanish sausage and hams. Among the most typical
local dishes we can taste the Sopa Morellano [soup],
ternasco [veal], robellones [local mushrooms] when in
season, sopa de flan [a thin stock served with cubes of
“flan” - egg custard - placed in the dish], and ‘flaons’ a
sweet based on cottage cheese and almonds.
The textile industry, one of Morella’s chief activities until
the beginning of the 20th century, continues being the
reason for which craftworkers continue to offer the
typical blankets and warm outer garments so necessary
in the cold winters of Morella and the region of Els Ports.
In addition, among its businesses we can find various
different shops selling crafts and local produce from the
land.
Forcall 40º 38' 46.20" N 0º 11' 56.40" W
Through La Tinença de Benifassà
towards the coast
We continue the route that will bring us to La Tinença
de Benifassà along the major national road N-232,
although there are quieter stretches of the old route of
the national road and without motor vehicles passing
for those who chose to go by bike.
If there is one region of Castellón province that
conserves the beauty of the best natural environment,
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 16
Route 1
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella
then it is La Tinença de Benifassà, which has
miraculously managed to conserve all its
environmental heritage; not in vain does it
contain one of the nature parks of the
Region of Valencia, as well as one of the
municipalities that, little by little, is recovering from the
slow but inexorable rural exodus of the years of
development.
The Torre Miró pass, at 1,259 metres above sea level, is
the highest point on the route and gateway from the
west into La Tinença de Benifassà.
The rugged landscapes of La Tinença are one of the
most comforting surprises in the territory. Its peculiar
geographical features make it, even today, extremely
difficult to reach.
La Tinença de Benifassà holds some of the most
majestic landscapes in the Region of Valencia and an
important biodiversity, the result of millions of years of
evolution, natural spots of indescribable beauty, with a
varied wildlife and great botanic richness. Crags and
precipices, rocky masses, ravines and gullies, caverns
and caves, and endless sierra and mountain range
formations that rise to altitudes of over 1,300 metres,
like the Tossal d’en Cervera and the Negret.
The history of La Tinença is closely linked with the royal
monastery of Santa María de Benifassà. Since 1967 the
Carthusian charterhouse of Santa María de Benifassà is
the only one in Spain that houses nuns, who follow the
strict rules of the enclosed order. Of the great walled
precinct of this female Carthusian charterhouse only
the church may be visited, with the cloister and church
being open to visitors only on Thursdays at midday. The
presence of the monastery of Santa María is of vital
importance for the area, since without it the hamlets
inhabited in La Tinença from the 13th century onwards
would not have existed. The lives of the inhabitants of
the area were closely linked to the monastery, since
many survived thanks to the protection offered and the
alms the monastery gave to the local people. Within the
official boundaries of La Tinença there are wild boars
roaming freely, beech martens and badgers, and we
Morella 40º 37' 8.40" N 0º 6' 0.60" W
can see the Iberian or Spanish ibex or wild goat, and
mouflon [wild sheep].
We leave La Tinença through the Torremiró pass, by way
of the Ulldecona y la Sénia reservoir, taking the CV-105,
enjoying some privileged and spectacular landscapes,
with heights that are continually in excess of 1,000
metres above sea level. These mountain ranges, the
most magnificent in the Region of Valencia, offer lovely
panoramic views along our way, a “lonely” road only
occasionally interrupted by a few sparsely inhabited
hamlets. This is the case of Herbés, where we can make
a stop to visit its 16th century church, Castell de Cabres,
El Boixar and Coratxà.
Along the route we will notice the smoke from isolated
farmsteads, the flight of some birds of prey, like vultures
and eagles, and a few occasional hikers.
We reach Castell de Cabres, whose urban centre is of
Arab origin, situated at over 1,100 metres above sea
level. The isolation and silence of the place impress the
visitor.
Historically, Castell de Cabres was a mining town, where
the coal miners sold the coal to Morella. Following that
Morella 40º 37' 8.40" N 0º 6' 0.60" W
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 17
16 - 17
route we find the 18th century parish church of Sant
Llorenç, which houses the patron saint of the area,
whose feast day is celebrated on the first Sunday in
September. Leaving Castell de Cabres behind, the
landscape is seen to be enriched by leafy patches,
chiefly of pines, and we come across farmsteads like the
Masía d’En Segures. Livestock and forestry are the main
activities of its inhabitants.
Along the way we reach El Boixar, where nowadays
barely a dozen people live. The name of the place
derives from ‘boix’, boxwood in English, an evergreen
shrub that abounds in the vicinity and its very hard
wood is used to make furniture and agricultural
implements. The hamlet is surprisingly situated amidst a
sea of valleys and steep ravines. Within the urban centre
of Boixar we can visit the Town hall and the 18th
century church of the Asunción, which has a
Romanesque porch and the belfry is an unusual finish.
From El Boixar a narrow road sets out that comes to a
dead end in the town of Coratxà. The itinerary,
surrounded by pines, Holm oaks and Spanish oaks, is
worth enjoying, and if our visit coincides with autumn
we will be able to enjoy the delightful scenes full of red,
and ochre shades. After a winding path we see the
urban image of Coratxà, at over 1,200 metres, rivalling
Vistabella del Maestrazgo to be the highest village in
the Region of Valencia. In fact, due to its privileged
strategic position regarding the defence of the area, it
had two forts on the top of the twin hills where the
houses of the town stand. Obligatory visits are the
unusual lime (or linden) tree in the plaza, the
Romanesque style church of San Jaime, built in 1247,
mountain passes as far as the town of Tortosa.
The small hamlet of Fredes is a haven of peace and
tranquillity. Wandering around its quiet streets will take
us to the parish church dedicated to the Santos
Mártires, built in 1725.
From Fredes a path takes us to the Fou ravine, passing
through some charming settings like the Portell de
l’Infern pass or the Salt de Robert waterfall.
From El Boixar, a road takes us down hill to reach
Ballestar and La Pobla de Benifassà. The landscape of
the area is rugged and mountainous of great botanical
importance, with plants unique to these spots and
which give shelter to a very diverse wildlife.
The western part of this valley is higher and narrows
towards Vallibona and Morella, enclosing a dell of
almond trees which, between the months of January
and February explode into blossom, announcing the
arrival of the short, but intense, Spring.
Arriving in Pobla de Benifassà we look around its centre,
where our attention is caught by its stone houses and
wooden balconies, and obligatory visits will be the
church dedicated to the Asunción and curious features
like the restored public washing place and the unusual
Chopo de la Font Lluny [black poplar at the Lluny water
with its porticoes and wide belfry, the cemetery which
spout].
has some ancient carved stone christograms. In the
nearby Polvorí cave we can also visit a Bronze Age site.
The town of Coratxà and its environs form a setting of
We reach our next destination, Ballestar. Approaching
La Tinença from the Ulldecona reservoir there is a
captivating view of this village, with its houses scattered
beauty and unapproachable silence, a captivating place
but with unimaginably harsh winters.
Returning to our route, we head for the town of Fredes,
over the slopes of a hill of evidently defensive
memories. The hamlet is an extraordinary artistichistoric ensemble and its streets with stone buildings
the gateway to a forestry track that makes it possible to
cross the whole group of the Puertos de Beceite
and lovely wooden balconies conceal the parish
church, with a beautiful Romanesque façade started in
La Tinença de Benifassà 40º 40' 19.79" N 0º 7' 58.80" E
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 18
Route 1
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella
the 13th century, on which may be seen, under the
clock, a representation in stone of a Cistercian knight.
We will also make a visit to its particular cemetery and
to the Iberian era archaeological site of La Morranda.
We go down by roads that will take us to the wall of the
Ulldecona reservoir. From there a mountain path sets
out bordering the Fou ravine, where we will discover
maples, hazels, elms, limes or lindens, and poplars,
which in autumn paint the area with different shades of
ochre. In wetter parts of the ravine we can find holly
and willow.
Past the Ulldecona reservoir, following the course of the
river Sena, we will discover secluded pools of water that
are suitable for bathing, and some olive trees over a
thousand years old, since the olive was one of the
traditional crops in the area. Between the olive groves
and the first citrus orchards, getting closer to the coast,
we discover San Rafael del Río, whose old centre
deserves to be visited.
Finally the route will take us to Vinaròs, our last
destination. This coastal town offers two faces, the port
and the town centre.
The port, with an important fishing industry, started
being constructed in 1866, although it was not opened
until ten years later. With time, the port was protected
by the construction of a parallel western quay and a
transversal eastern quay have also been added.
If we head for the centre of the town we will be able to
visit the 16th century Gothic church of Mare de Déu de
Monastery of Santa María de Benifassà
40º 40' 40.80" N 0º 11' 22.20" E
Vinaròs 40º 28' 14.39" N 0º 28' 30.00" E
la Asunción, with a beautiful baroque front, and which
was declared a Monument of Artistic-Historic
importance in 1978.
Amongst other monuments, it is worth going to see
the church of San Agustín, at present used as the
municipal auditorium; the 17th century Town Hall, the
municipal market opened in 1928, and the bullring,
built near the sea and the largest of its class. The port
and beaches, packed during summer, are an invitation
for a pleasant stroll in the winter. In the surroundings
we will be able to visit the hermitages of Nuestra
Señora de la Misericordia and San Sebastian. They are
whitewashed buildings, situated on a little hill known as
El Puig, from where a pretty panorama can be seen.
A few metres from the town we can end our route
visiting the hermitage of San Gregorio, a beautiful 18th
century church built by the Augustine friar Pere Tonel.
Practical information
Fiestas, food and crafts
Festivities in the highlands of Els Ports have their own
names throughout the year. In Todolella its exclusive and
complicated ‘war dance’ is held. For its part, Forcall is
famous for its Santantonada fiesta, dedicated to San
Antonio, with its ‘dimonis’ [demons] and a bonfire with a
narrow tunnel of vegetation through the middle
enabling the brave to pass through, and which is the
most original of all those dedicated to this saint in the
area. There are also the pilgrimages and religious
processions, L’Anunci, and the well-known Sexenni de
Morella, celebrated as its name suggests, every six years.
On lower land approaching Vinaròs, romerías [local
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 19
18 - 19
Vinaròs 40º 27' 57.00" N 0º 28' 36.60" E
pilgrimages or religious processions to nearby
sanctuaries or hermitages], carnivals [to mark the
beginning of Lent] and maritime festivals are common
in many towns.
In craftwork, the fame of the rope-soled shoes made
from hemp lives on, blankets from Morella and bed
covers and curtains, an inheritance from the handmade
textile tradition in the area. Regarding the cuisine,
produce from the sea is the basis of the cuisine in the
coastal area, with its fish and seafood, the prawn of
Vinaròs notable among them. Inland the olla or puchero
- hearty stews based on chick peas, Spanish sausage and
bacon fat, as well as ham and cecina [other cured meats
like beef, horse, goat etc]; along with dishes such as
recapte [grilled vegetables like peppers and aubergines,
used to prepare other dishes too]. And among the most
noteworthy sweets: ‘flaons’, a typical sweet pastry
turnover filled with requesón [a ricotta-style cheese] and
ground almonds; coquetes [small tarts], or magdalenas
[like fairy cakes], almendrados [almond macaroons],
mantecados [traditional Christmas biscuits], and buñuelos
[like doughnuts] with honey.
Recommended time of year
Any time of the year is good, except for the coldest days
with their northern gales, in the winter of Els Ports and La
Tinença de Benifassà.
From the end of January to mid-March we can enjoy the
colourful landscapes of almond and cherry trees in
blossom. In autumn we will be dazzled by the colours of
Vinaròs 40º 28' 13.80" N 0º 28' 29.40" E
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 20
Route 1
From Vilafranca to Vinaròs passing through Morella
the deciduous trees like maples, oaks and ash in the area
set out early so as to make the most of the early hours of
of La Tinença, and the beautiful hues of brown, orange
and ochre of the canopy of trees. It is recommended not
to miss the snow-covered landscapes of Els Ports and La
the morning or at dusk. They are the best times of day to
travel as the temperature is agreeable and the light is
especially good. The route can also be done by car along
Tinença in winter or even spring.
the roads and forest tracks that are indicated, although it
is advisable, for venturing along some of the rougher
tracks, to use an all-terrain or 4WD type vehicle. In this
case one must not abandon the marked route. In order
to get to know the area in detail the most
recommended is to leave the vehicle parked somewhere
safe and secure and walk the innumerable official
footpaths and get to the most beautiful spots.
Public transport
Regional trains stop at the station in Vinaròs. Bicycles
are transported free of charge on the trains. There are
public bus services from Castellón de la Plana to
Vilafranca and from Vinaròs to Morella.
Recommendations
If the sportier people want to do the route by bike, it is a
good idea to use a mountain bike for this route. It must
be taken into account that away from urban centres
there are not too many waterspouts on the route so it is
advisable to replenish supplies whenever you have the
chance. To do the trips on this route it is a good idea to
RECOMMENDED MAPS TO FOLLOW THE ROUTE CORRECTLY:
National Geographic Institute
Scale 1:25,000, sheet numbers: 569-II, 544-IV, 544-II, 545-I, 520-III, 545-III, 520-IV, 521-III, 546-I, 546-II, 546-IV, 571-II.
Further information: www.comunitatvalenciana.com
Information on regional and local trains: Renfe 902 24 02 02. www.renfe.es
TOURIST INFO OFFICES FOR THE ROUTE:
Tourist Info Cinctorres
Carrer Nou, 6
12316 Cinctorres
Tel. 964 18 14 17
[email protected]
Tourist Info Forcall
C/ Carmen, 21
12310 Forcall
Tel. 964 17 12 90
Fax 964 17 10 01
[email protected]
Tourist Info Morella
Pl. de San Miguel, s/n
12300 Morella
Tel. 964 17 30 32
Fax 964 161 071
[email protected]
Tourist Info Tinença
de Benifassà
Ctra. La Sènia-La Pobla de
Benifassà, Km. 5
(next to Molí de l’Abad)
12599 La Pobla de Benifassà
Tel. 977 71 34 18
[email protected]
Tourist Info Vilafranca
Pl. Iglesia, 6. 12150 Vilafranca
Tel. 964 44 14 32
Fax 964 44 01 83
[email protected]
Tourist Info Vinaròs
Zona Nord. (Temporary)
Pº de San Pedro, s/n
12500 Vinaròs
[email protected]
Tourist Info Vinaròs
Pl. Jovellar, 2
12500 Vinaròs
Tel. 964 45 33 34
Fax 964 45 56 25
[email protected]
Tourist Info Vinaròs
Zona Sud. (Temporary)
Av. Pablo Béjar, s/n
(Playa de Clot -Clot beach)
12500 Vinaròs
[email protected]
RUTA1_1a21:rutas 28/06/10 10:48 Página 21
Pobla de Bellestar 40º 27' 51.01" N 0º 18' 42.00" W
20 - 21