Stunning and mythic Big Sur, reached down the coast on a cliffside

Stunning and mythic Big Sur, reached
down the coast on a cliffside journey
from Carmel via Highway 1, has been
described by many as, “the greatest
meeting of land and sea.”
Photo: Kelli Uldall
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The Call of the Wild
Exploring Big Sur’s Unique Character
B Y TO M B E N T L E Y
L
N OT
E T ’ S G E T O N E T H I N G O U T O F T H E W AY : A N Y D AY I N
SUR,
BIG
W H E T H E R T H E W E AT H E R I S F O G G Y A N D D A M P , O R T H E
D E S T I N AT I O N
IS TRICKY
O R T R A F F I C K Y, I S A
TO G O A L L WO O - WO O, B U T
BIG SUR
GOOD
D AY .
I S A P L A C E T H AT ’ S
B O T H E X T R A O R D I N A R I LY L O V E LY A N D A S TAT E O F M I N D .
A N YO N E
C A N F E E L T H E D I F F E R E N C E — E V E N I F G O I N G F R O M C O M P A R A B LY
APPEALING
CARMEL
OR
MONTEREY—BY
S I M P LY
S E N S E S TO T H E U N I Q U E C H A R AC T E R O F T H E
OPENING
BIG SUR
THE
C O A S T.
B U T W H Y S E T T L E F O R T H E E A S Y S C O R E : T H AT M E R E LY P L E A S A N T
B I G S U R D AY ? W H Y N O T G O F O R T H E O N E T H AT H A S O O H S ,
A H H S A N D W O W S N O N S T O P ? T H AT ’ S A S T R A I G H T F O RWA R D G O A L
( T H O U G H I N B I G S U R S O M E T I M E S A H I L LY O N E ) , A N D T H E
C H O I C E S A R E M A N Y . T H E F I R S T D E C I S I O N S B E G I N AT H O M E : P A C K
S O M E H I K I N G C L O T H E S . B I G S U R C O A S TA L V I S TA S A R E D A Z Z L I N G
A N D VA R I E D, A N D E A R N I N G A S T U N N I N G V I E W I S W O RT H A F E W
H I L L S . B U T U N L E S S T H O S E H I K I N G TO G S A R E A S T Y L E M AV E N ’ S ,
B R I N G A C H A N G E O F C L OT H E S A S W E L L , B E C A U S E T H E R E A R E
S O M E D I N I N G S P O T S T H AT A R E W O R T H A B U T T O N - D O W N .
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Andrew
ge
Bixby B rid
Head for the Hills
M olera S
tate P ar
k
eiffer
McWay Falls, Julia Pf
Burns St ate Park
Trail/Hidden Trail/River Trail loop, which shifts
Or enjoy the quick-but-wondrous Canyon
For the sheer variety of hikes, some of which
from shady oak glens to a 360-degree view
Trail to Canyon Falls view at Julia Pfeiffer Burns
are more like strolls, a great place to put legs in
from Molera Ridge of canyons and coast and
State Park to see that willing water jump from
motion is Andrew Molera State Park. There are
then back down to the river.
cliff to shore.
Sit a Spell and Nosh
a couple of sweet and easy walks to the beach
There’s a bit of climbing over the 3.6-mile
alongside a river, and the beach cove is wel-
loop, but the hike’s rewarding. Lots of other
coming, with its driftwood sculptures and hand-
hikes are in the park, but for other fun (and
reward that exertion with a lunch bite, but a fine
some background hills.
shorter) ones outside, try Partington Cove Trail,
choice is the Big Sur Roadhouse. It’s a comfort-
some miles south of town (“town” being a bit of
ably hip spot with locally sourced and carefully
an exaggeration).
prepared California cuisine, a full bar and a visually
But go for the gold: get the map at the
entrance station and trek along the Ridge
Big Su r R oad
house
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There are plenty of beguiling places to
View
f rom
N epen
the
a
m V entan
View f ro
Henry
M iller
L ibrary
Big Su r Coastline
intriguing atmosphere. Also consider the River
clothing and books, salves and scents and some
where if God is in heaven, they’ll have some
Inn for its waterside dining and charm-
Big Sur kookiness.
of their fabulous chocolate cake (earned from
ing old-lodge feel.
There are great views and good grub from
that hike) as well as their stout range of cof-
Café Kevah above, and even better (and prici-
fee drinks. They have inventive meals for lunch
er) views, drinks and dining from historic
and dinner too.
tially Big Sur is the Phoenix Shop—the breath-
Nepenthe restaurant above that.
Galleries Galore (But There’s More)
taking views of the ocean wiggling far below are
Get a Cuppa
Spellbound Shopping Above the Sea
The merchandiser that seems so quintessen-
Coast Galleries is always worth a stop
reward plenty, but inside there’s an eclectic
Tired from trying to figure out where the
when in Big Sur. The setting alone is unique,
(and often exceptional) assemblage of hand-
Bali curio from Phoenix will fit on the mantle?
since the original shops were carved out of
crafted jewelry and other artworks, unique
Try some bracing joe from the Big Sur Bakery,
giant redwood water tanks, placed in a
Big S ur River
Inn
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Phoen
ix S h
op
Dolores Street between 5th and 6th, Carmel by the Sea
( 8 3 1 ) 2 9 3 - 8 6 3 6 • w w w. r u f f l e m e t o s l e e p . c o m
streamside canyon setting.
The gallery features lots of American arts
and crafts, including sculptures, paintings and
jewelry; there’s always something eye-catching
and unusual.
The Henry Miller Library isn’t really a gallery,
though there’s intriguing (and often eccentric)
art scattered about its grounds. Miller made Big
Sur his home for almost 20 years beginning in
the ’40s, and the library (with its vinyl albums
and books of Beat Generation and earlier
heroes), its performance grounds and its oddball
sensibilities are welcoming and uniquely Big Sur.
Dining Where the Condors Cruise
e,
Worth the journey to this frou-frou little stor l.
me
Car
for original sleepwear and robes made in
OK, so there’s a day of it in Big Sur, and it’s
been dandy. Why leave? Grab that change of
clothes and take the road up to the restaurant
at Ventana, where the savory food competes
with the views from the expansive patio. It
boasts a civilized menu, good drinks and attentive service.
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But for truly pulling out the stops, go across
the street for a meal at Sierra Mar at Post Ranch
Inn. By evening, the waves crashing on the cliffs
below might be unseen, but the dining room is
a fantastic glass-walled experience nonetheless.
There’s a four-course prix fixe dinner, but why
Anita Dyer, joined in 2013
YOUR CREATIVE
not shoot for the stars and go for the ninecourse Taste of Big Sur menu? There won’t be
Life.
hiking shorts in sight, but nobody’s stuffy here.
Big Sur Goes All In
The recipe for a perfect day does call for
some sun, but if there are a few scudding clouds
in the sky, they make for great shadows on those
ocean views below. Bring some sunblock, a cam-
Anita enjoys all that the coast has to offer and she may even offer you a
tour of her weaving studio in downtown Pacific Grove, only a short walk
from Canterbury Woods. Entry fees? There are none, and that makes our
senior living community surprisingly affordable. To learn more, or for your
personal visit, please call 831.657.4195.
era and binoculars too—there are several vista
pullouts on Highway 1 that are hair-tinglingly
beautiful, and many spots in town where sitting
a spell and contemplating all that’s good with
nature is as fine a gift as can be gotten.
Here’s to Big Sur: it conjures up one perfect
day after another, without even trying.
651 Sinex Avenue, Pacific Grove, CA 93950 canterburywoods-esc.org
A not-for-profit community owned and operated by Episcopal Senior
Communities. License No. 270708224 COA #89 EPCW721-01dg 080115
Why Choose Coast Estate as your Property Manager?
We have an experienced, well-trained, highly motivated staff. We provide dedicated owner service representatives who are
experienced in all facets of long term and vacation rentals. We are always available for you and our guests. Coast Estate:
• Employs strict tenant/guest screening processes
• Each guest is met at check in
• Our homes are inspected after each departure
• Strong enforcement of rental contracts and good neighbor policies
• All services are performed by licensed & insured contractors
• Open 7 days a week and Holidays
Coast Estate Real Property Management, Inc. B.R.E. 00482426
Estate Management • Real Property Management • Short and Long Term Rentals
Contact MaryJane Caputo-Walters, CEO (831) 521-4345 • [email protected]
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