No. 15 - Capsule

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AUTUMN/
WINTER
2016
№
15
PARIS MEN'S
January 22–24
New Venue!
Maison de la Mutualité
LAS VEGAS
MEN'S & WOMEN'S
February 15–17
The Venetian Ballroom
NEW YORK
WOMEN'S ACC.
February 21–23
Pier 94
NEW YORK MEN'S
January 26–28
New Venue!
Pier 92
NEW YORK
WOMEN'S RTW
February 21–23
Pier 94
PARIS WOMEN'S
March 4–6
Tapis Rouge
2
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
NEW LOCATIONS
D
iscovering emerging designers, and meeting
trailblazing retailers is what has always made the
Capsule experience so exciting. For A/W16, we’ve got
a great array of new brands, special sections curated by our
friends, and expanded lifestyle, beauty, grooming and home
products to make your visit to Capsule even more inspiring.
New, centrally located locations for Capsule’s
NY and Paris menswear shows
The international Capsule community of designers and
retailers has grown since we launched Capsule eight years
ago. Our design scouts continue to scour the globe to select
the most compelling, innovative and sought-after emerging
brands to show with us.
As the launch pad for many of the industry’s future stars,
Capsule is a favorite of progressive retailers looking to discover
new talent. These merchants are leaders in the current
evolution of retail, who take a creative approach to commerce,
offering an experience in their stores that goes beyond shopping;
educating, exciting and engaging consumers in new ways.
Taking a disruptive approach to the fashion industry has been
one of the key talking points of the past year, and those who
dare to work outside the traditional rules of the game are
winning in the industry. On the following pages, we’ll highlight
some of the innovative people, trends, and ideas you’ll be seeing
in 2016.
Paris Men’s Show
January 22–24, Maison de la Mutualité
Cover art by Kalen Hollomon
DISCOVER @CAPSULESHOW
Make sure you visit these special sections
at Capsule shows worldwide
New America
Perspective:
The USA’s most
directional up and
coming labels
A curation of emerging
brands, selected by
Harvey Nichols’ Head
of Menswear Darren
Skey (men’s shows) and
Assembly New York
Creative Director Greg
Armas (women’s shows)
The Maison de la Mutualité played a large role in the history
of Paris, having been built in 1931 to serve as a meeting place for
leaders in the mutual insurance industry. Over the past decades
the building has served as a social hub for influential exhibitions,
shows, banquets, balls, political rallies, union and trade federation meetings, radio recordings, concerts, conferences and even
sports championships.
Located in the historic 5th arrondissement, in the heart of the
Latin Quarter in Paris’ left bank, Maison de la Mutualité
is easily accessible via Uber, taxi or Metro.
Maison de la Mutualité, 24, rue Saint-Victor — 75005
London
Showcase
Top talent from London
Fashion Week
We look forward to seeing you at the upcoming A/W16
Capsule Shows in New York, Paris and Las Vegas.
—The Capsule Team
3
New York Men’s Show
Jan 26–28 , Pier 92
Above Tree Line
Elements
Sundries
The intersection of
performance and fashion
An offering of the world’s
best independent beauty,
grooming, home and
fragrance products
Lifestyle items, objects,
apothecary and paper
goods selected to make
an impact
We’re moving the show uptown to Pier 92—on the very accessible
West Side—right next door to Liberty Fair, making market week
just a little bit easier. You’ll spend more time at the shows, and
less time commuting around Manhattan. Pier 92 boasts tons of
natural light, and a Hudson River view that can’t be beat. And,
we’ve got great hotel deals, starting at $119 a night at the very
chic Hudson Hotel, located just down the street.
Pier 92, 711 12th Avenue, at 54th Street
4
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
STYLE PROFILE:
SANDRINE
SANDRINETTE
BEAUTY ESSENTIALS:
CHRISTINE WHITNEY
2015
What are a few of your most
prized possessions?
I have to say my most prized possessions
are sentimental! For instance, on my
last birthday the Colette team secretly
planned to get me a TV. I didn’t have one
for 5 years. It’s something that I wasn’t
expecting, it’s a only a TV but for me it’s
more than a TV, their love and affection
is priceless. And for the record, I can’t stop
watching my favorite series now a days!
Interview by Natasha Nuñez
If you had to wear a uniform for the
rest of your days what would it be?
Carhartt overalls, white tee, converse
70’s high, a teddy and a mariner cap.
I actually do it a lot.
Christine Whitney, Senior Editor
of beauty blog Violet Grey shares
her beauty travel essentials.
I hate checking bags when I travel, so I try
to make sure all my beauty products can
fit comfortably in my carry-ons. I’ll leave
heavy things like the Clarisonicand Sonicare at home and swap in lightest possible
alternatives. My large Mansur Gavriel tote
is my go-to personal item, and in it, I always pack a pouch with the beauty essentials I want with me on the plane, like face
cleansing wipes and moisturizer, and lip
balm—plus some kind of large cashmere
scarf—and I pack another pouch in my
main carry-on with things like shampoo
and conditioner that I’ll be using after
I get where I’m going.
What are three of your favorite
Instagram accounts at the moment?
@colette of course ;-)
On my own instagram I only follow my
friends, brands & magazines so
@highsnobiety (lifestyle news), and
@Igobyfrankie (I love her style...)
@Tyrsamisu (Typography.) and
@izzysuperior, the most fashionable
greyhound in Paris. I said to my friend
I’d never follow his dog but...
Who is on your fashion radar
right now?
I don’t have a fashion radar; there are
always ideas to pick up here and there.
I am influenced by everything surrounding me in my daily basis. People in the
subway, people running to work, people
at the bakery, my friends, our customers
at Colette, nightlife...there is inspiration
everywhere!
1
2
3
Favorite scent?
White musk
What do you like to do when you’re
not working?
Spend time with family and friends,
movies, music , books, exhibitions, walk,
travels...enjoy life!
4
5
What interests you most at
the moment?
My work of course and I’m very focused
on it. Dynamo cycling, boxing, eating
healthy, my close friends, new births,
a bit of everything in general (Fashion,
music, exhibitions...)
6
7
One of buzziest “it” girls of the
moment, Sandrine Sandrinette is
everywhere on the Parisian fashion/
art/music scene.
What are your must-haves when
traveling?
My iPhone, computer, camera,
charger, sunglasses, bandanas, sneakers,
and Stance socks.
As Colette’s “social media lady,” and
photographer for the store’s Instagram
account, Sandrine applies her creative
eye to document and share images of
the cool people passing through, special
product launches and all day every day
happenings at the shop.
8
9
1.
Koh Gen Do Maifanshi Moisture Foundation
2.
Mason Pearson bristle brush
3.
Sachajuan Volume Powder
4.
Troy Surratt Eyebrow Pencil
5.
NaturaBisse Essential Shock Intense Cream
6.
Olo Palo Santo Fragrance
7.
Koh Gen Do Cleansing Spa Water Cloths
8.
Shu Uemura Essence Absolue
Nourishing Protective Oil
9.
Shu Uemura Lustre Shampoo & Conditioner
What is your favorite carry-on
luggage?
Carhartt and Eastpak.
Name your favorite travel destination
For inspiration: India
For relaxation: Thailand
For a quick getaway: Berlin
Known for her eclectic style, Sandrine
is courted by brands like Levi’s, Carhartt
and Nike to wear their products.
We had a coffee with Sandrine in Paris.
@sandrinesandrinette
Follow Sandrine @sandrinesandrinette
When did you first start thinking
about fashion?
My mother used to love fashion so it
became contagious but I’m not a fashion
addict, I have a lot of crushes.
Photos from @sandrinesandrinette Instagram feed
—
Natasha Nunez @omgnatashaaa
Natasha is a natural storyteller who
has created digital experiences for
MADE Fashion Week, and No. 6 Store
in New York.
CAPSULESHOW.COM
5
A RETAILER’S
GUIDE TO
A GREAT
TRADE SHOW
Tips and tricks for maximizing
your visit to Capsule
1
Know where to go: Know the address and
opening times of the shows you’re attending,
and plan accordingly.
2
Make reservations: Book your travel and lodging
accommodations as far in advance as you can
to take advantage of discounts. Capsule’s got some
great rates at the Hudson Hotel in New York,
and the Venetian in Vegas.
See capsuleshow.com for details.
3
Make a shopping list: Know which trends, and
key items you’ll be looking for. Jot down a list of
specific brands you’d like to see, and their booth
numbers in a handy Capsule x Field Notes
notebook in advance of the show so you don’t
miss anything.
4
Pre-search: Before you go to the show, visit the
Capsule show participating designers lists, located
at Capsuleshow.com and click through each brand
to discover new talent you’d like to meet at
the show.
5
Look for #thatnewnow: Dare to experiment with
new brands and new ideas. Go in to every booth.
There are plenty of new and up-and-coming gems
to discover at Capsule.
6
Tools of the trade (show): While business cards
might be heading the way of the zoot suit, it’s
always good to have some on hand. Mints and hand
sanitizer are also tradeshow must-haves.
7
Take notes: Keep a record of everything you’ve
done and seen at the show. Make a list of follow up
actions to be done once you get back to the office.
8
Look good and feel good: Wear comfortable—but
very fashion-forward—shoes.
6
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
2015
BRANDS 2 WATCH
CAPSULESHOW.COM
@CAPSULESHOW
ALMINTY3D
ARIEL GORDON JEWELRY
CLEOBELLA
INBAR LEVI
OWEN & FRED
CUERO&MØR
DON’T CRY MILAN
ILANA KOHN
STUTTERHEIM
THE HORSE ACCESSORIES
New York Women’s
@alminty3d • alminty.com
The designs are three-dimensional, offering
different looks from different angles.
New York Women’s + Las Vegas
@cueroandmor • cueroandmor.com
Inspired by the Mediterranean sea, designed
for a contemporary and sophisticated urban woman.
New York Women’s
@arielgordonjewelry • arielgordonjewelry.com
AGJ consists of highly personal pieces designed
to be worn together and collected over time.
New York Women’s
@dontcryofficial • dontcry.it
Don’t Cry is developed in Venice, Italy which is best
known for their expertise in jean production and
wash facilities.
New York Women’s
@cleobella • shop.cleobella.com
Cleobella’s A/W 16 collection is inspired by a recent
trip to Turkey where the caves of Cappadocia and
beyond were explored.
New York Women’s
@ilanakohn • ilanakohn.com
Former illustrator, Ilana Kohn designs all of her
prints herself.
7
New York Men’s + Paris Men’s
@inbar.levi • inbarlevi.com
INBAR LEVI is distinguished by the utilitarian
approach and aesthetic that follows throughout
the collection.
New York Women’s + Paris Women’s
@stutterheim • stutterheim.com
The best of Swedish rainwear. The Stutterheim
Autumn/Winter collection includes two new types
of material and is the first work by new head
designer Patric Wallertz.
Las Vegas + Paris Men’s
@owenandfred • owenandfred.com
Travel-oriented New York design brand Owen & Fred
just shot its new FLIGHT BRIEF bag collection
at the TWA Flight Center at JFK Airport making
it one of the last brands to shoot at this icon of
modern design before it turns into a hotel.
New York Women’s
@the_horse • thehorse.com.au
The Horse Accessories’ design philosophy centers
around magnifying what is essential and editing
out excess.
ROCHAMBEAU
New York Men’s + Las Vegas
rochambeaunyc • rochambeau.nyc
Rochambeau was born at the same time as the first
Capsule show at the Angel Orensanz Church in the
Lower East Side; members of the Capsule family
from Day 1, known for super avant garde styling
and high end fabrications.
YESTADT MILLINERY
New York Women’s
@yestadtmilly • yestadtmillinery.com
Luxe line of custom made millinery based
in New York City.
8
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
GETTING TO KNOW:
SECOND/LAYER
DECEMBER
2015
L
CAPSULESHOW.COM
9
ifestyle scenes have always
been the driving force of
successful fashion movements.
We’ve seen the rise of action
sports clothing brands, inspired by the
lifestyle of a subculture committed to
skate/surf and snow. Hip hop fashion
grew out of a love for the music and lifestyle. Sneaker culture is inspired by
a rise in global connectivity, the collector
mindset and the mainstreaming of
the underground.
Authenticity, and aesthetics continue
to be key values for successful brand,
as consumers still seek out companies
they can connect with. Designed in
Venice Beach, CA Second/Layer
designers Josh and Jacob Willis and
Anthony Franco live the lifestyle that
inspires the clothes, and still maintain
a very close connection to the LA street,
skate and surf scenes that inform the
collection’s design. “We skate as a form
of transportation these days,” Josh says.
“Maybe we will hit Henry’s (from
Enfants Riches Deprime) mini ramp at
his studio. Or Jake will hit the park every
once in a while. I surf about 3–4 times
a week. I wish it were a lot more.
The most skating we probably get is
when we travel. We usually bring our
boards when we are in NYC or Tokyo.
Bombing the streets of both cities is
so fun.”
We spoke with Josh Willis about the lifestyle roots of the brand, and what it takes
to be a successful independent today.
The SoCal skate scene is the driving
lifestyle behind Second/Layer design.
Can you tell us a bit about the scene,
and your involvement in it?
The SoCal skate scene is definitely a part
of the culture we grew up in. But it’s not
only the skate scene that is the driving
lifestyle behind SECOND/LAYER.
The driving lifestyle behind SECOND/
LAYER is our culture that we grew up in
and what we have shaped for ourselves.
Equal parts skate, surf, and street culture
is what shaped our reality. Growing up
we would skate down the street passing
houses full of gang bangers, streets and
front lawns lined with low riders, and old
timers sitting outside on the porch. When
we went to the beach we were the ghetto
kids surfing. We never really fit in anywhere so we had to be super confident
and be able to back our shit up. Maybe
that’s how we got into fashion...Hahaha.
It takes balls to put yourself out there
and to be vulnerable.
The driving lifestyle behind SECOND/
LAYER...It’s more of a mash up of all
those sub-cultures that we grew up in that
helped shape our aesthetic. We still skate
and surf on the regular and being a G is
just kind of in our blood. The only scene
we have any involvement in is our own
scene. We try and do us at all times.
What is influencing you now?
Our influences are still a good mix of
vintage Giorgio Armani (circa 1992)
and the late 80’s and early 90’s Inland
Empire skate scene. We also just got back
from Tokyo and Tokyo is always inspiring
for us so I would assume that somehow
subconsciously we take influence by
some of our friends over there that are
always killing it.
Our culture is a huge inspiration for
every collection. To us it’s the coolest
thing we have ever known. We will
continue to draw inspiration from our
culture until we find something that
makes sense otherwise. I mean, last
season we were trying to communicate
that suavecito surf/skate vibe. A suavecito is what your mom would call you
when you looked all good like if you
were going to hit the mall or something
like that. So we took that vibe and
knocked it out the way we would do it.
So obviously it had a skate/surf vibe.
But the swag was 100% suavecito.
What are you working on for AW16?
What will be some key inspirations,
concepts or key items for next season?
We honestly just started AW16. We are
going to be shooting a lookbook the
same day we leave for Paris, re-touching
on the plane, and getting a print job done
overnight. Hahaha. Hopefully it’s not that
bad but I wouldn’t doubt it. Most of our
inspiration is volume, and how to create
volume and be wearable at the same
time. We feel like editorially volume has
been big over the last couple seasons but
I always find what they are showing in
these editorials is exaggerated way past
the point of being wearable. Volume has
always been a thing for us. But reinventing it in new pieces is always fun. All of
our coats, jackets, and knits are going to
be fun. Graphics will also be prevalent
throughout the collection. Loose trousers
in beautiful fabrications are going to be
the thing to watch out for.
We are working on a couple collaborations
that we can’t really speak of yet. That’s
why we were in Tokyo recently. But other
than that we are still trying to figure out
our presentation schedule and things like
that. We are going to try and drop a small
capsule collection in December that
should be cool as well.
What are some of the challenges
you’ve faced as independent designers?
How did you deal with them?
Shiiiiit. I don’t think this interview is
long enough to list all the challenges
we go through. We started with nothing
but a small savings account and some
help from our parents. That all went in
the first year and a half. We do freelance
work of all kinds just to get by. We also
do another brand named article-number
as a passion project. It’s funny because
I guess to some people we are killing it
and when we ask them to work together
they always ask what’s the budget—as if
there is ever a budget. But good thing
we have good people around us that want
to be down with what we are creating,
and money is never a thing for them.
They know how we get down and if we
make it we all make it together. This is
the way we grew up. Friends become
family and you ride through the thick
and thin.
Our biggest challenge outside of the
financial challenge is just the ability to
spend more time on S/L. If we didn’t
have to do everything else just to get by
then we would be able to spend so much
more time on S/L and that would make
a world of a difference. But that’s the
struggle you go through as an independent brand. At least we own our own shit
and don’t have any square telling us what
to do. How do we deal??? I guess we all
man up. We just get whatever we have
to done and keep it moving. That’s the
only way.
10
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
11
MOOD:
BLUE
VELVET
01
03
04
She wore blue velvet
Bluer than velvet was the night
Softer than satin was the light
From the stars
02
She wore blue velvet
Bluer than velvet were her eyes
Warmer than May her tender sighs
Love was ours
Ours a love I held tightly
Feeling the rapture grow
Like a flame burning brightly
But when she left, gone was the glow of
Blue velvet
But in my heart there’ll always be
Precious and warm, a memory
Through the years
10
07
And I still can see blue velvet
Through my tears
She wore blue velvet
But in my heart there’ll always be
Precious and warm, a memory
Through the years
05
09
And I still can see blue velvet
Through my tears
08
06
15
14
11
12
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
13
09
10
11
12
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Diamantina Félix Labisse, 1968
Le Mépris Jean-Luc Godard, 1963
UltraTouch® Denim Insulation
A block of Aerogel in a person’s hand
Christophe Lemaire for Hermès, A/W 2011
megazord.asia
Cephalocereus senilis (Old Man Cactus)
New Geometry, The Still Lifes of Severafrahm
for the COS, S/S 2014
Faustine Steinmetz, A/W 2013
Cindy Bruna for Vision China, September 2014
Ioannis Michalou(di)s Aphroplaston, 2003
Kenzo, A/W 2007
Christophe Delcourt Ian sofa
Bless found at Antonioli
Ian Tweedy March 21–24, 2015, 2015
Charles Fréger Wilder Mann Babugeri, 2010–2011
Meret Oppenheim Pelzhandschuhe, 1936
looo.ch
Tijmen Smeulders Parts, 2015
Pierre Cardin’s Palais Bulles by Antti Lovag, 1975
12
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
RADAR:NOAH
B
When it comes to covering
street culture, can
traditional media keep up
with new media?
The brand’s reintroduction rings in a new era for Babenzien.
He lucked out with a cozy retail space in the heart of NoLita, which
houses the label’s eclectic offerings of everything from the perfect
graphic hoodies to pinstriped wool blazers. And this time around,
his vision is clear and unfiltered. It is a unity of fashion and function,
clothing that he believes should be lived in as much as possible.
By Jian DeLeon
We had the pleasure of catching up with Babenzien about his
very first designs, his pleasantly nostalgic surf shop days,
and the future of Noah.
Do you remember the first piece you
ever designed for Noah?
I don’t remember the first piece but
I remember the first group. I still have some
of the stuff. The first season was really
preppy. No one was doing preppy
at the time because hip hop was the biggest
influence in fashion. I did a navy waxed
cotton sport coat and some surf trunks with
Mackintosh out of their rubberized cotton
fabric, they made a few pieces for me.
Those pieces stick out in my mind.
What is your biggest inspiration when
designing today?
I find that the people around me and the
people I see in today’s world inspire me.
Old friends of mine, things they did when
we were younger. New friends of mine,
How personal is the collection to you?
It’s my life, you know. I think it’s the same
for a lot of people. It starts with me, I know
there are other people around my age who
have similar interests and feel the same way
about what’s going on in the world. But
beyond that age group I think if you just
look at the clothing and it really resonates
now. It’s relevant. Our thing is to share
with all people, any age.
I sense a very harmonious balance of
fashion and function with some of the
pieces. Do you prioritize one over the
other when designing?
No, the things that interest me exist in both
places equally. I don’t like running gear
because I don’t think it looks very good and
in some cases it doesn’t work well. Some
of the stuff that’s being sold by companies
is sort of like half-truths when it comes to
the function. I don’t like really techy stuff
either. I like running in cotton. I’ll run in
flannel shirts in the winter or wear wool
under layers when it gets really cold.
13
CAN’T
CATCH
ME
rendon Babenzien earned his stripes as Creative Director of
Supreme, elevating the brand with the infamous red box logo
to unfathomable heights during his tenure. Long before the
Long Island native reinvented streetwear, he launched his own brand
in 2002. After leaving Supreme in early 2015, which came as a shock
to many, Babenzien announced the relaunch of Noah.
things they’re doing now. I don’t really look
to the outside world of celebrity or historically famous people. There aren’t pictures
of Steve McQueen on my board. It just
feels distant. I’m just more interested in
things that have come very close to us
in real life.
CAPSULESHOW.COM
OP-ED:
By Adrian Nuñez
Noah initially launched in 2002 but
you had such a longstanding tenure
at Supreme and stopped production
of it. Did you always intend to revisit
the brand?
I definitely knew I was going to revisit
the brand again. It never really left me.
I was young and didn’t have any money
then. I did it on pure emotion without
much thought. I had this idea that it
would be more formed later on because
I would be more mature and have more
life experience.
2015
Were you an athlete?
I don’t know if I think of myself as an
athlete because that sounds really jock-ish.
I played lacrosse but surfing and skateboarding definitely had a bigger influence
on me than lacrosse. I run now, I think I just
like to move and do things. But definitely
surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding
were my focuses when I was a kid. There’s
tremendous amounts of athleticism that
goes into that stuff.
you know? If the space is standoffish then
the customers might be standoffish. So the
space had to inform people immediately
that it was ok to come in and talk to us.
That was really important to me because
of my surf shop background. People came
to surf shops to hang out, have cultural
exchanges, skate in the parking lot, read
magazines, everything. We even had birthday parties there! (Laughs.) I wanted that
same feeling here.
Marketing is at the core of Supreme’s
ethos, from collaborations to the vibrant
cast that they get in their campaign each
season. It’s a formula that has been perfected and speaks to the hype that comes
with fast fashion. Will you be taking
a similar approach in marketing?
Everybody needs to market themselves no
matter what. With Supreme it’s all very
honest. The people in the photo shoots and
people around the company are all a part of
the brand. They’re all family over there.
I guess by default we’ll take a similar
approach because we’re only working with
the people we know and like.
We’ll be shooting our friends in the clothes
and doing things that are part of our lives
in an honest way.
Now that you have the shop what’s
next for Noah? Are there any exciting
projects in the works?
I feel like I just want to enjoy this space for
a little while. Get through a season, let it
live and see what it does. Once people
begin coming through the space they become a part of this story. They’ll influence
it too. I’m just watching it sort of naturally
evolve. As far as projects go, there’s a
bunch of weirdo stuff that we’re going to
get into that might surprise people.
But they’ll come when they come.
In the 2014 version of All Gone, the
ultimate street culture tome documenting
the best collaborative and limitededition products of a given year, editor
Michael Dupouy posits that subculture
has become pop culture. It’s a hypothesis
that makes any aging cultural participant have a self-aware moment in which
he or she realizes that the roller coaster
ride of youth culture has long since ended
for them, and they risk looking like a
bloodsucking narc seeking nourishment
from the teat of the next generation.
Mentors have their place, but in
order for that to happen, you’ve got to
realizewhen you’re washed and it’s time
to step aside and let the new kids take
the reins of culture. It’s a point where
you go from the conscious consumer
to the O.G., the person who’s able to put
things in the appropriate context and
properly connect the dots where Internet
forums and upvoted Disqus comments
have left nothing but heresy (does X
designer come from money? Did X brand
really collaborate with Supreme ten years
ago?—These are the kinds of minutiae
old heads really know).
—
Adrian Nunez @_yoadrian
Adrian is a freelance writer and
contributor to Mass Appeal magazine.
PRINTED MATTER
Tell us a bit about the location, and getting the store up and running?
The location came about by a stroke of
luck. This space has been empty for many
years. I thought there was something wrong
with the space for it to be empty for so
long. It turned out that the landlord just
wanted the right company in here. We hit
it off right away and talked about running
since he is an ex-triathlete and now trains
younger guys. That sealed the deal. The
total build out time of the store was about
3 weeks to get everything done. We had to
work very quickly.
The space is very cozy and I noticed
customers were casually hanging out
while simultaneously shopping. Does
the neighborly vibe stem from your surf
shop background?
I think the environment dictates the way
people act when they come into a space,
Noah
195 Mulberry St,
New York, NY 10012
@noahclothing • noahny.com
As street culture remains preeminently young, what’s ironic is that its
main media sources are undoubtedly
getting older. Some kids have sworn
off sites like Hypebeast, Complex, High
Snobiety, and Selectism, eschewingthem
because the latest drops and coolest
brands don’t get broken on those platforms, but on social media. Brands like
Midnight Studios, Anti-Social Social
Club, and 424 get plenty of shine on
Instagram and Tumblr long before
getting featured in an editorial.
The Luka Sabbats and Aleali Mays
of the world develop huge personal
followings that make the old guard pay
attention to them.
It’s no longer clear who the kingmakers are, as hype blogs and street
culture sites transform more and more
into viral pop culture news incubators,
aggregating the same stories and
cultivating a self-sustaining news cycle
where Supreme releases, Kanye West,
and the Kardashian-Jenner clan are
the tentpole stories that generate the
most views.
On the other side of the coin, traditional
media has begun paying attention
to sneakers, streetwear, and every
intersection in between in a way unlike
they ever have before. And while many
talented writers, reporters, and editors
are more than up to the task, there’s just
something amiss whenever someone
who isn’t necessarily “of” the culture
tries to report on it. It’s why The New
York Times more often than not gets
derided for its trend pieces. No one
wants to hear the cool dad’s take on
things—even if looking like a cool dad
is decidedly chic.
The next great step in documenting
street culture, its associated lifestyles,
and the trends and brands associated
with it will be the publications and
content creators who mitigate the enormous culture gap between high-brow
contextualization and the authenticity
of street culture. Engaging storytelling
is increasingly becoming a more
important part of content consumption,
and few people in this particular world
have managed to master it, with writer
Gary Warnett (his blog Gwarizm is
especially great) and Alec Leach of
High Snobiety being two personal
favorites. As consumerism, fashion,
and the interesting culture that’s
evolved from streetwear will continue
to progress, so should its arbiters.
Instead of following the conversation
from the cool teens of Instagram and
Tumblr, ideally these brands would be
finding ways to get in on the ground floor.
–JDL
—
Jian de Leon @jiandeleon
Jian is a men’s fashion and lifestyle
writer who has held posts at Complex
Media, GQ, Valet, and Four-Pins.
The Field is a new, modern outdoor lifestyle
publication sharing stories of travel and adventure,
gear news and reviews, and photo essays, which
launched in November. Editor Graham Hiemstra
describes The Field as a magazine and newsletter
“for all (men and women) who share an interest in
the outdoors, and well-designed products. We hope
to appeal to the creative class, living in cities, like
we are.” With travel pieces, product reviews, and
great photography, The Field is a new kind of outdoor mag, appealing to the modern active lifestyle
enthusiasts. “We’re aesthetes at our core, and want
to shine a light on the gear out there that puts equal
weight on form and function,” he says.
Hiemstra has had his share of adventures already.
“This past October two of us rode motorcycles 1000
miles around Lake Michigan, through Indiana,
Wisconsin and both bits of Michigan. We rode in
rain, wind, sleet and sunshine, and ate at roadside
diners for four days straight. It was a proper
adventure and we hardly even left paved roads.”
@thefieldmag • thefieldmag.com
Photo Credit: Ian Durkin
14
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
PAJAMA
PARTY
Words: Adrian Nuñez. Photos: Chandler Kennedy.
Models: @MingBlingBling + @LiddyBiddy_
Pajamas: Timo Weiland
Call them what you want: PJs, jammies,
nighties, or just plain old pajamas.
But there’s no feeling quite like donning
your coziest commodities while lounging
around. Legend has it that the British
adopted the sleepwear tradition via their
Indian occupation in the 19th century,
and pajamas have been all the rave since.
Nearly two centuries later, we have taken
major steps forward in loungewear.
Pajamas have become more fashionable
and way less frumpy. Some of your
most cherished memories of childhood
sleepovers probably include a particularly
embarrassing onesie. But we won’t judge,
because pajamas are like the best-kept
bedroom secret after…well you know.
DECEMBER
Although you may find yourself in
foreign lands while traveling, pajamas
are like one of those tiny remnants of
home you carry with you. Here, some
of our favorites.
—
Shot on location at the Hudson Hotel,
NYC. Special Capsule room rates
available. Visit capsuleshow.com
for details.
Chandler Kennedy @chandlerkennedy
Chandler’s feminist yet raw photography
style has led her to work with the likes
of Steve Madden, Timberland and Adidas.
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
15
16
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
2015
#FOODBALLIN
CAPSULESHOW.COM
17
Created by George Ferrer and Martin Mata, current and former Capsule staffers
respectively, Foodballin is a visually striking Instagram feed that documents the duo’s
eating adventures as they travel throughout NYC and the world. We asked the guys to
share with us some of their favorite spots throughout Manhattan, Brooklyn and Queens.
Follow them @foodballin • foodballin.com
GREAT N.Y. NOODLETOWN
IHAWAN
HOMETOWN BAR-B-QUE
MOMOFUKU SSÄM BAR
POK POK
Peking pork chops. Salt fish and chicken fried rice.
Singapore mai fun. Salt baked anything, especially
the soft shell crab (when in season). We’ve grown
up eating these dishes throughout Chinatown and
Flushing and have put countless friends onto this
order. You can thank us later.
In case you didn’t know, we’re both Filipino.
When the craving for mom’s cooking hits, Ihawan in
Woodside is the place to go. Our childhood favorites
are sinigang (pork & veggies in tamarind-flavored
broth) and kare-kare (oxtail in peanut butter sauce),
but if you’re looking for a truly unique experience,
we suggest their kamayan meal, a family-style feast
eaten with your hands.
117 Columbia St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
@pokpokpdx • pokpokpdx.com
179 E Houston St, New York, NY 10002
@russanddaughters • russanddaughters.com
We know, it’s not as good as the barbecue in
__________ [insert famous barbecue place here].
Thanks for your opinion, folks from said places.
That doesn’t change the fact that we think Hometown
is hands-down the best barbecue restaurant in NYC.
Grab a beer while you wait to order and get the brisket
and lamb belly.
Let it be known that we’re fans of everything
Momofuku. We’ve got respect for David Chang,
the empire that he’s built, and for his chefs and staff
that continually elevate the standard when it comes
to food and hospitality. We’ve had some of our best
meals of life at Ssäm Bar and we’ll continue to sing
its praises for as long as it’s around.
There are plenty of great Northern Thai restaurants
in NYC, but Pok Pok is our favorite. The Vietnamese
fish sauce wings are the most popular dish here, and
with good reason. We’re also big fans of the laap pet
isaan (spicy minced duck salad) and the deep-fried
whole porgy when it’s available. Make sure to order
a beer or one of Pok Pok’s drinking vinegars to
cool your palate, as Andy Ricker’s food can pack
some heat.
“Appetizing since 1914.” Say no more, Russ &
Daughters. This LES institution has been a bastion
of smoked fish for a century and shows no signs of
letting up. Our only advice: get your terminology right
and know the difference between lox and smoked
salmon to avoid the question “Are you sure you want
lox?”. They’re not the same thing and the words
are not interchangeable. You can have them explain
it to you, but then you’ll be holding up the line.
LUCALI
MAPO BBQ
KATZ’S
MINCA
SHAKE SHACK
MISSION CHINESE FOOD
Fair warning: You’ll probably have to wait an hour or
two for a table at Lucali. However, the pizza is some
of NYC’s best and the restaurant is BYOB, so the wait
gives you time to pick up a bottle of wine (or two)
for your dinner. Make sure you bring cash, and since
you’re there, you might as well add a calzone to your
order for good measure.
If you’re looking for the best Korean BBQ in New
York City, you’ll have to leave Manhattan. Mapo
BBQ in Murray Hill, Queens is serving up delicious
kalbi cooked over charcoal (yes charcoal!), adding
an extra dimension of flavor to the perfectly marbled
hunks of short rib. Throw in the heavy assortment of
banchan, their special side dishes like creamed corn
and egg soufflé and you’ve reached the mountaintop.
The legendary pastrami at Katz’s is layered with flavor
through a lengthy 4-step process of curing, smoking,
boiling and steaming. The meat is then hand-sliced
to order for your sandwich or platter by one of their
venerable “Cutters”. If that doesn’t deserve your
$19.75, we don’t know what does. Get in line (short
to not-existent at night), smile when they give you
a sample to taste, ask for the full-sour pickles and
don’t lose your ticket.
All of their ramen is great, but we usually come here
for the tsukemen. For the uninitiated, tsukemen consists of ramen noodles that are dipped into a separate
bowl of broth that is thicker and more concentrated
than your typical ramen broth. Pro-tip: order your
noodles cold, and if you’re really hungry, ask for
another portion of noodles.
We’re never not in the mood for Shake Shack.
It’s no wonder that they’re well on their way to world
domination now. While the original Madison Square
Park location is a requisite pilgrimage for burgerlovers, the Brooklyn Shacks are worth a trip too for
their fried chicken sandwich. In a town saturated with
expensive, premium, dry-aged blends, the Shack’s
no-frills “roadside” patty manages to be affordable
and hits the spot every single time.
We once chugged five beers and sprinted through the
LES to Mission’s previous location on Orchard Street
five minutes before closing. They still sat us, didn’t
rush us out, and complemented our ability to take
down five dishes between the two of us. Chef Danny
Bowien’s addictive take on Chinese, particularly
Szechuan, fare will push your taste buds to the limit.
Maybe don’t sprint, but get to MCF sooner than later.
28 Bowery, New York, NY 10013
575 Henry St, New York, NY 11231
@lucali_bk • lucali.com
40-06 70th St, Woodside, NY 11377
149-24 41st Ave, Flushing, NY 11355
454 Van Brunt St, Brooklyn, NY 11231
@hometownbarbque • hometownbarbque.com
205 E Houston St, New York, NY 10002
@katzsdelikatz • delicatessen.com
207 2nd Ave, New York, NY 10003
@momolongplay • momofuku.com
536 E 5th St, New York, NY 10009
newyorkramen.com
Madison Ave & E.23rd St, New York, NY 10010
@shakeshack • shakeshack.com
RUSS & DAUGHTERS
171 E Broadway, New York, NY 10002
@missionchinesefood • mcfny.com
18
CAPSULE PAPER NO. 15
DECEMBER
FASHION CAPITAL
HOTSPOTS
2015
CAPSULESHOW.COM
19
1
3
2
One of the most alluring facets of a job in the fashion world is the opportunity to
travel. And while we tend to complain a bit while we’re in the midst of the grueling
pace of fashion month, or a multi-week production trip, getting out and seeing the
world is definitely a perk of the trade. We’ve asked some professional fashion
travelers–buyers for some of the world’s top retailers, to share some of their
favorite go-to spots when they’re on buying trips in London, Paris, Milan and
New York. Here’s where you’ll find them.
4
7
6
5
Brian M. Trunzo
Co-Founder, Co-Owner,
Carson Street Clothiers
Bo Carney
Owner,
Mohawk General Store
Christie Fels
Art Director &
Head of Womenswear, Hostem
Sam Lobban
Buying Manager,
mrporter.com
PARIS
PARIS
NEW YORK
LONDON
Café Charlot
38 Rue de Bretagne, 75003
Le Café Chinois
7 rue Béarn, 75003
BDDW
5 Crosby St.
The Cow Pub & Restaurant
89 Westbourne Park Rd.
It may be cliche, but Café Charlot is
a must-see brunch spot. Between all
the showrooms and retail shops in
the Marais, it’s located right smack
in the middle of all the action and
as a result has become a favorite
among the international fashion set.
Show up off-hours to ensure a spot
on the terasse for optimal people
watching.
Café Chinois in the Marais is my
go-to in Paris for comforting, nourishing food. Fashion market is tough
on your stomach with all the wine
and buttery foods. I feel so zen and
healthy here especially when we are
the first customers of the day and it’s
quiet and empty.
BDDW is the Soho-based showcase and design firm of ‘well-made
American furniture’ founded by
Tyler Hays. This oasis on Crosby
Street boasts more than the most
covetable handcrafted beds, tables
mirrors and cabinets in hardwood—
they even have an archery club:
The BDDW Club of Archers &
Handmade Bowyers.
This is a great little old school pub,
which also serves fantastic food.
They also play very good music,
so it’s not unknown for us to turn it
into an impromptu dancing spot too.
NEW YORK
Pasticceria Cucchi
Corso Genova, 1
LONDON
The Eglise Saint-Sulpice is a 17th
century Catholic church and truly
an incredible space. Every now and
then I take a look inside in-between
appointments in Saint-Germain;
it’s usually very quiet and taking a
little time there can help to make it
through some of the lengthier and
busy Paris buying trips!
Carson Street Clothiers
63 Crosby St.
Bread
20 Spring St.
If you don’t stop by CARSON
STREET on your trip to New York
then I don’t even know how to
begin to describe how irrelevant and
hopeless you are. Just kidding—it’s
a pretty cool spot and we’re pretty
chill dudes. But if i’m to leave my
biases behind, I’d have to recommend Bread in Nolita—order the
tagliatelle at the bar, thank me later.
MILAN
Very old school, very Italian bakery
that also serves coffees and drinks
as well as nice aperitivo. Some of
the most stylish Milanese friends
I know meet there but it’s just
a Milan institution for all ages and
types. Amazing people watching.
40 Maltby Street
40 Maltby St.
40 Maltby is the bar and offshoot of
Gergovie Wines, offering their boutique labels by the glass or bottle.
The wines are natural and organic,
without additives or sulphites, whilst
the kitchen delivers simple, brilliant
dishes from a blackboard menu.
Owner Raef Hodgson’s parents
respectively own Neal’s Yard Dairy
and Monmouth Coffee—there’s no
going wrong here.
PARIS
Eglise Saint-Sulpice
2 Rue Palatine, 75006
8
KEEP CALM
CARRY ON
Gear up for the Fashion Week
travel circuit with these packs
and sacks.
1. BLK PINE WORKSHOP
The front pockets of the Standard Canvas
Wide Utility Tote are large enough to hold
those magazines you can only buy overseas, while the interior is wide enough to
organize a couple pairs of shoes.
2. GOLDEN LANE
Italian goat and calf skin give this bag
a luxurious hand. Inspired by artist
Piet Mondrian’s work with a contemporary
fashion makeover.
3. ST. LAWRENCE LUGGAGE
Handmade in Toronto, Canada, from North
American vegetable tanned full grain bison
leather, the Basen Backpack features a
bunch of interior zippers and compartments
to keep your essentials organized.
4. BAGGU
The Standard Baggu folds into a 5" x 5"
pouch and weighs just 2 oz, making it easy
to stash in your purse, pocket, or luggage.
Perfect for packing after an impromptu
shopping spree.
5. HERSCHEL SUPPLY CO.
Herschel’s Trade Luggage keeps you
rolling through a grueling fashion month.
Functional, internal mesh dividers will
keep you organized on short trips.
6. CAMPBELL COLE
Made in England, the Annex Overnight Bag
features tons of roomy compartments,
making travel easy.
7. WELCOME COMPANIONS
The Lips Tote is big enough for a laptop,
books, and even an outfit.
8. BUDDY
It’s 2 bags in one! The 2Way Fang Bag
can be worn as a tote or a backpack,
allowing you to change up your look
without bringing an extra bag on the road.
Capsule
80 8th Ave #202
New York, NY 10011
CAPSULESHOW.COM