january 2015, no. 11
Transcription
january 2015, no. 11
capsuleshow.com #capsuleshow @capsuleshow JANUARY 2015, NO. 11 ASK A NORMAL They all think we’re crazy P. 2 NEWBIES AT RETAIL Top shops tell us what it takes to survive P. 3 POP ART Humberto Cruz is a real culture vulture P. 4-5 NEW BRANDS Nine designers making their Capsule debut P. 6 DREAM TEAMS Fantasy pairings of designers and brands P. 7 2 JANUARY 2015 3 What I Look For: Color Inspiration Emerging Designers at Retail White WHITE FIELDS I In the winter time we go Walking in the fields of snow; Every fence, and every tree, Is as white as white can be. II Pointing out the way we came, —Every one of them the same— with Darren Skey of Harvey Nichols All across the fields there be Prints in silver filigree; And our mothers always know, By the footprints in the snow, By Steve Dool Where it is the children go. JAMES STEPHENS, 1909 By Steve Dool As avid followers of fashion or participants in the industry, it's often easy to lose sight of the fact that clothes we wear without a second thought can seem extravagant, confusing or inaccessible to the average citizen. To help us gain a little perspective, We Are the Market, the Capsule blog, created a regular series called “Ask a Normal,” in which we seek out average, everyday citizens and ask them their unedited opinions on Fashion with a capital F. “I think the best advice I can give to a new brand is to spend time in your target stores,” he said. “Understand the customer profile and the customer journey in-store. What gravitates a customer to certain rails? What's your USP [unique selling point] which will set you aside from all the other rails in the store?” And Then Some… More advice for emerging designers from some of our favorite directional retailers For their part, when Harvey Nichols takes on an emerging designer, they’re willing to work with them to help them answer some of these questions. Where there is no grass at all; Where the top of every wall, Ask A Normal According to Skey, designers with an understanding of those key differences between stores automatically have a leg up compared to other, less educated brands. Sarah be spotted getting kicked out of Chateau Marmont or puking outside an awards show. 28, Law student, Los Angeles Re: Iris van Herpen leather, mock stingray and faux fur coat What are your initial thoughts on this coat? I'm not totally sure what's going on. I was NOT expecting stingray to look like that. I thought it would be more grayish, although I guess that could be the underbelly or something. That seems really weird and difficult to make. Also, I'm not sure how much I like the idea of stingrays, dead or alive, that close to my neck after what they did to Steve Irwin. Note: I have since realized it's not real stingray. This coat is by Iris Van Herpen, a Dutch fashion designer who has dressed Beyonce. Which of the following would describe how you would feel if you were to wear this: A) Crazy in Love B) Crazy C) Drunk in Love D) Drunk E) Bootylicious Oh, I can see that. Realistically speaking, I'd probably go with d) Drunk since I'd have to down a bottle of bourbon before I felt like I could come close to pulling this off. As a resident of Southern California, could you imagine a time or place when it would be appropriate to wear this jacket? Definitely. I'll spare you the lecture on microclimates but suffice to say jackets are common wear in LA. I'm betting at least one of these will What would the reaction of your classmates or professors be if you wore this to class? I'd definitely get a lot of shade from the environmental law clique, and lots of long stares. People here tend to be more causal than this jacket—a significant percentage of the student body longboards to class. Can you think of a scenario in which you would wear this? Yes. The more I look at it, the more wearable it looks. Is that what happens when you work in fashion? The coat uses faux fur and real leather made to look like stingray. Do you think Van Herpen loves all animals except cows? I dunno man, she put a LOT of effort into making that leather look like it came from a stingray. At what point does a normal doll become a voodoo doll? I only put that much thought into things I hate. Stingrays are definitely on her list. Could you imagine spending $4250 on a coat? Lolz! I'm a student at the end of the semester, I can barely imagine spending $42.50 on a coat. Looks like there's free shipping though. That's always a game-changer. For an emerging designer, the chance to work with a major department store with an international presence can be a make-it-or-break-it, watershed opportunity with a long-lasting impact. Unfortunately, selling into a major department store often asks a lot of both the designer and the retailer; something as simple as an order minimum can be a huge roadblock for a fledgling label with limited resources. As a result, there aren’t a lot of majors willing to take a chance on new designers early on in their career. But then there’s Harvey Nichols. The UK-based luxury department store - with a famous Knightsbridge flagship and doors from Hong Kong to Edinburgh - has revamped its men’s department, honing in on young designers. “We have certainly made a conscious effort to introduce new brands, which in turn will introduce a new demographic to our Menswear offering,” said Darren Skey, Harvey Nichols Menswear Buying and Merchandising Manager. “We endeavor to work with the younger brands to grow together and share our experiences to help them develop.” “We enjoy working with brands who are willing to take guidance from us, in terms of what our customer is looking for, whilst at the same time being true to their own DNA,” Skey said. “The end result must be a win-win scenario. Brands can make a mistake of just being interested in the sellin results rather than the sell-out. Emerging brands need to understand the commercial nature of a collection whilst balancing the fashion element.” Even though Harvey Nichols is demonstrating a willingness to throw a hefty amount of support behind new talent, it’s been a carefully considered decision, and one with long-term goals. Brian Trunzo, co-owner, Carson Street Clothiers 63 Crosby Street, New York City (www.carsonstreetclothiers.com) “Most importantly, we want to make sure that collections are sellable. Sure, a designer's vision and desire to break the mold is exciting and invigorating, but we need to move a certain amount of product for it to make sense to bring in a new brand. It's really a delicate balance between design and commerce.” As Skey said, “We want to grow organically with [emerging] brands and grow them into a bigger part of our business.” “The best advice I can give to a new brand is to spend time in your target stores. Understand the customer profile and the customer journey in-store.” While Harvey Nichols will always be a comfortable home to the Diors and Givenchys of the world, those venerable labels now sit beside homegrown talent like Lee Roach, Matthew Miller, Blood Brother and Trapstar. US brands like Hood by Air, Fear of God, VFILES and Pyer Moss have also recently been introduced. Skey noted that Harvey Nic’s unique structure allows for more adventurous buys than some of its contemporaries. Herbert Hofmann, Voo Store Oranienstraße 24, Berlin (www.vooberlin.com) “I see too often that young designers try to reinvent fashion and simple things like pants and shirts. It’s important to work on great cuts and materials and to have basics in the line. Basics are not exciting but [they are] necessary!” Lukas Grundtner, Grundtner & Söhne Metzgergasse 2, Hallein, Austria (www.grundtnerundsoehne.com) “A lot of [emerging] designers do not have a clear language. They are rather look-a-like or try to copy someone. We like designers and brands who have a clear and precise aesthetic.” “Harvey Nichols is actually more of a boutique than a traditional department store,” he said. “We don't sell white goods, which allow us to concentrate on our fashion offer. The size of our store allows us to be a bit more creative, as you would expect from a boutique.” V-FILES Matthew Miller 4 JANUARY Interview with Humberto Cruz @iscreamcolour Name: Humberto Cruz Age: 30 Star sign: Pisces Interview by Minya Quirk (MQ) While scrolling and trolling down the rabbit hole of Instagram we landed on planet @iscreamscolour, a veritable visual cacophony of so much that we love. That’s cute overload in the form of smiley faces, kitties on skateboards, lipstick kisses, tiny pyramids, rainbows and wide-eyed sweetie pie portraits of the somewhat predictable (Miley Cyrus, the Olsens, Rih Rih) and the unexpected (Eva Chen, Lynn Yaeger and Mel Ottenberg). Three sheets of exclusive Capsule doodles later, we spoke to Humberto and chatted it up about his artistic dreams, to peel or not to peel those precious stickers in your collection and that troll life. MQ: It’s nice to finally speak on the phone after so much correspondence and just knowing you through Instagram. Tell me about yourself! I was born in San Diego but moved to Tijuana, Mexico where I grew up. I returned to San Diego when I was 16 and went to college at the Art Institute of California San Diego. I studied graphic design and graduated in 2007. It was so hard finding a job. I work full time in a grocery store, it’s a 99 cent store. I’ve been working there since I was 17. And you’ve got a pretty decent following on Instagram! I discovered Instagram almost exactly three years ago and I’ve been posting every day, sharing my artwork. I reached 10k a month ago thanks to people reposting. I guess it started when I drew Cara Delevingne wearing a Jeremy Scott sweater and one of his friends reposted; things went viral from there. Tell me about your typical day Three days a week I start work at 5 am, two days a week at 6. I’m up early. I work in a freezer, so it’s like New York I guess. I wear a lot of layers. I stock all day. After work I have lunch with my roommate, I start drawing. I like to swim so I go to the gym three days a week. I just learned to swim. I’m still swimming with fins on my feet, otherwise I get tired. Were you always drawing as a kid? As a kid I was always into different characters, the Little Mermaid. Disney movies. I would watch the movie and pause it to draw the characters and specific scenes. What was your favorite scene to draw from Little Mermaid? The wedding scene. Sebastian and the cake. “I like to mix personalities that I grew up with, with the latest pop star or maybe a historical figure in an outfit that I like. Right now I’m obsessed with Polly Pocket dolls.” So let’s talk stickers. They play an important part in your work. I’m a collector myself. Tell me about it. I’ve always collected, and had them in a box. I wasn’t inspired for a few years after I was finished with school. I’m drawing celebrities, thinking what should I do with the backgrounds? Should I use my stickers? Are they going to stay there in the box forever? It’s better to look at them in a drawing. That’s hard! Where do you buy your stickers? Ebay. You’re probably bidding against me! Probably. In the world of cute things like Lisa Frank or Sanrio, what’s your poison? Probably trolls. I collected them as a child and I’ve started buying them again on Ebay. My collection from when I was young, the hair got all damaged from water, from playing with them. Like cutting their hair or washing it. Also My Little Pony, but that was when I was younger. Right now I’m obsessed with Polly Pocket dolls. What about fashion, you’ve done some portraits of pretty obscure fashion personalities. People that are not widely known outside the industry. But I guess that’s the internet for ya. What draws you to fashion? It’s always changing every season. I just like the way people express themselves with clothes. Here in San Deigo we don’t get to wear those things, interesting things. It’s not New York or Paris. Like, people are just wearing flip-flops. People are lazy here! It’s fun to see it on the Internet. How do you choose people to draw, especially the more unexpected portraits? I draw people if I admire their work, like a Donald “Drawbertson” Robertson. Bryan Boy, I love his style I love what he does. Sometimes I just like what they’re wearing in a picture I see, like (legendary stylist) Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele in Jeremy Scott. I like what she’s been doing with Miley. I like to mix personalities that I grew up with, with the latest pop star or maybe a historical figure in an outfit that I like. What kind of fashion websites do you frequent every day? V Magazine (vmagazine.com). Oyster (oystermag.com). Favorite fashion designers? Kenzo, Jeremy Scott – people have been criticizing him lately for using other people’s stuff lately, but…Vivienne Westwood. Alexander Wang. For Halloween I really like to design my own elaborate costume. Use the glue gun. What were you this year? I was a troll this year. Do you ever think you might work in fashion? I’d love to design shirts. I would love to do graphics. What do you like to listen to when you work? I love pop music. My favorite song right now is “Pom Pom” by Ariel Pink. Other sources of inspiration David LaChapelle, Jeff Koons, pop culture in general. Top three people in pop culture you like to draw Miley, the Olsen twins and Anna Dello Russo. What’s coming up in your near or far future? I’m just looking for the right opportunities to do what I like to do – to make art. I did a project for Intel, some avatars. I have an editorial project coming out with Herself magazine from London. Thanks, Humberto! MQ 2015 5 6 JANUARY New At Capsule For A\W 2015 A closer look at designers making their Capsule debut this season Han Kjobenhavn Women’s Capsule New York Women’s Bolstered by the success of their cult-favorite line of accessories and apparel for men – and imma culate shops in Copenhagen and New York – the Danish label is launching a women’s collection for AW15. Passarella Death Squad Capsule Paris Men’s Since it was founded in 2004, the multi-disciplinary “aesthetic experience” has encompassed music, art and clothing design. Always subversive with an emphasis on premium production values, the British label has created fantasy scene artwork that will be displayed throughout their AW15 collection. Massimo Alba Capsule Las Vegas The Milan-based cashmere maestro has been hooking customers with his casually elegant menswear since 2006. Look for his unstructured, Made-in-Italy sportswear on effortlessly stylish gents around the world. Pantaloni Torino Capsule Las Vegas When it debuted in 1969, this Italian label quickly became renowned for its pants (as you may have guessed). Top of the line fabrics, exacting attention to detail and a precise fit have kept customers happy since. New Kid Capsule New York Women’s Since 2009, this independent footwear and accessories line has been operating out of Florence, the epicenter of high quality leather production. A hand-picked network of Tuscan craftsmen work to create the androgynous, pop-culture inspired styles that have become the brand’s signature. Campbell Cole Capsule Paris Men’s Minimalist, meticulous and functional, this collection of bags and small leather goods is designed to enhance your everyday life. Made entirely in England, each piece employs a number of production techniques – from hand-stitching to embossing – to ensure long use and ample character. 2015 7 2 Guys & A Girl Jonathan A. Eyal and Kevin Beltran of Miami’s Supply and Advise compare notes on current favorites and all-time classics with Grandpa Style’s Ashley Owens. Timeless Gift? JONATHAN 1st Edition James Bond novel by Ian Fleming KEVIN Yamazaki Single Malt. ASHLEY A beautiful scarf, the perfect scent, or tasteful jewelry. Winter Vacation Spot? Rio De Janeiro Stockbridge in the Berkshires. Sun Peaks in British Columbia. Essential Shopping City? Haven't yet been, but I know Tokyo will be everything I've imagined and more. I get it done in New York City. The ultimate is New York. You just have to know where to go. 2014 Song of the Year? “Rising Son,” Takuya Kuroda. “No Name Bar,” by The Fabulous Three “Ivory,” by Movement CMMN SWDN Capsule New York Men’s Based in East London by way of Malmö, Sweden, this menswear label has Kanye West to thank for its existence – the designers, Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund, met while setting up a Paris design studio for the rapper. Soon after, they launched CMMN, gaining recognition for combining classic wardrobe staples with progressive standout pieces. Matthew Miller Capsule New York Men’s A 2009 alum of the Royal College of Art, Londonbased Miller gained early recognition from Vogue for his graduate collection, setting the course for his rise to prominence. Never afraid to make a political statement with his designs, Miller has become a must-see during London Collections Men, where his shows, like his clothing, give life to his unique artistic vision. Army – Yves Salomon Capsule Las Vegas The history behind this storied furrier stretches from Russia at the turn of the century to China and Paris, with detours working alongside Jean Paul Gaultier, Dior and Azzedine Alaïa, among others. Today, the Army sub-collection specializes in “wittily subversive” military-inspired outerwear. I DREAM OF FASHION! Winter Whites– Yay or Nay? Really? Yay, of course. I’m not bound by that convention, so I say yes to Winter Whites. Yay! It's not my thing, but I know some people who do it very well. Style Icon of the Year? Don't have a flavor of the year, in many respects I live in the past. The legend, Ralph Lauren. Caroline DeMaigret Go to suiting label? Ring Jacket Ring Jacket HVRMINN, always Go to footwear designer? Alden. If you take care of them they'll last a lifetime. Must-follow Instagram account? @war_mongo. Amazing photos of abandoned relics from all the wars of the world. Guilty pleasure… @thefatjewish. @leacolombo @ideabooks AW15 trend to watch? Don't follow trends, as that very often leads to mistakes in assembling a good wardrobe. Not into trends, but sportswear has been really big lately so let’s get back into tailored clothing. The "do your own thing" trend. My favorite. Alden Armando Cabral The seasonal musical chairs that rotates boldfaced designer names between major fashion houses is something of a tradition these days – the upcoming AW15 season sees debut collections from the likes of John Galliano for Maison Martin Margiela, Peter Copping for Oscar de la Renta and Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski for Hermes. With that as inspiration, we asked some notable friends what their dream designer-fashion house pairing would be. Jian DeLeon Deputy Style Editor, Complex.com “Robert Geller has done consistently good work, but is still a very underrated designer. A bigger platform at a name like Dior could propel his insouciantly romantic menswear to a place where it could really be appreciated. I'd like to see what Mark McNairy could do for a house like MCM. I can only imagine how bonkers a MCM backpack via McNairy would be.” Jake Gallagher Contributor, A Continuous Lean “The only dream pairings I would want would be for Ian Velardi and Adam Kimmel to properly return to the design world and take over the reins at major labels. Either of those guys at the helm of any label (seriously any label, I'm talking the spectrum from Brooks Brothers all the way to Loro Piana and then over to Hermes) would be exciting for me.” Kai Avent-deLeon Owner, Sincerely Tommy “My choice would have to be Phoebe Philo for Acne. Acne is a little more quirky, but season after season they always come up with amazing prints and fabrics. I would be curious to see how Philo could put her timeless spin on the brand.” Sandra Winther Film Director, sandrawinther.com “If I could pair any designer with an existing brand I would pair Alexander Wang with Nike. I can't even imagine the sick sneakers that would come out of that pairing.” Kay Lee Owner, OTTE NY “Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty from Suno would be a cool pair with Marni. Phillip Lim at Giorgio Armani would be a good, classic and feminine fit.” Angelo Baque Brand Director, SUPREME “Charlie Casely-Hayford at Gucci, just for the loafers.” BPMW 80 8th Ave #202 New York, NY 10011 A\W 2015 New York Men’s January 19 & 20 Basketball City, 299 South St (at Montgomery St) Paris Men’s January 23–25 New York Women’s Accessories February 22–24 Pier 94, 711 12 th Ave New York Women’s RTW February 22–24 Pier 94, 711 12 th Ave Cité de la Mode, 34 Quai d'Austerlitz, 75013 Las Vegas February 16–18 The Venetian Ballroom, 3355 S Las Vegas Blvd Paris Women’s March 6–8 Espace Tapis Rouge, 67 rue du Faubourg Saint-Martin, 75010 Register to attend at capsuleshow.com We're Moving: Capsule New York Women's Show Has a New Home In February 2015, the Capsule New York Women's show will officially make its new home at Pier 94 on the West Side of Manhattan. Our new location lets us stretch our legs a bit, enabling us to give our exhibitors more space and updated display systems, our attendees more specialized service and everyone amazing Hudson River views. Plus, we'll be in the thick of it all, just steps from the center of the Market Week action in Midtown. If you haven't guessed, we're pretty excited - and we hope you are, too. Here's all of the information you need: February 22, 10-7PM / February 23, 10-7PM / February 24, 10-6PM Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, New York, NY 10019 Register to attend at capsuleshow.com See you soon, New York. February isn't too far away. Introducing Capsule Accessories If you thought the news of our new women's show venue in New York was the only announcement we had up our sleeves for next season, well...you'd be wrong. In February 2015, Capsule Accessories will be making its proud debut as a show-in-show during Capsule New York Women's at Pier 94. Since the very first Capsule, our accessories exhibitors have been some of the brands shining brightest in an assortment full of attention-grabbing designers — and we've had more interest than we've ever been able to accommodate. Now, with our new venue and Capsule Accessories as our brand new showcase, we can finally bring in more directional accessories brands and designers, representing the very best in jewelry, bags, hats, scarves, belts and more. February 22, 10-7PM / February 23, 10-7PM / February 24, 10-6PM Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, New York, NY 10019 Register to attend at capsuleshow.com
Similar documents
No. 7 - Capsule
The new Etsy Wholesale features the collections of close to 600 designers. Each
designer manages their own showroom on
the site, uploads their own imagery, information, product shots, pricing and b...