NSWGR 30T Class 4-6-4 Tender Locomotive - O

7 mm Scale
NSWGR 30T CLASS 4-6-0
TENDER LOCOMOTIVE KIT
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS
Please read through the entire instruction sequence before commencing
assembly to familiarise yourself with the sequence and methods of
construction involved
Drawing courtesy of
Greg Edwards – Data Sheets
INTRODUCTION
This kit has been designed to make up into a fine-scale model of the 30T class locomotive and tender.
All practicable detail has been included, and the best results will be obtained when construction
proceeds with care and patience. In addition to the tools listed below you should provide yourself with a
perfectly flat working surface – such as a sheet of 6 mm thick plate glass which may be obtained as an
off-cut from a glazier. A pair of reliable Vernier callipers will be helpful in checking measurements such
as thickness of wire and placement of parts. A copy of the 30T Class Datasheet should be purchased.
This is available as a 7 mm scale drawing from Datasheet at P O Box 2, Braddon, ACT 2612, or from
outlets detailed on line at: http://datashet.actewagl.net.au/page_avail.htm
SAFETY WARNING
The polyurethane resin used for the plastic castings in this kit is a stable material as cast,
but questions exist about its effects when inhaled as dust. We therefore advise caution
during all sanding and drilling operations. All sanding should be done using wet ‘wet and
dry’ paper to minimise dust. A suitable dust mask should be worn whilst sanding to
reduce any associated risks.
PREPARATION OF POLYURETHANE CASTINGS
Check all parts and clean off any excess flash. Wash all resin parts in warm (not hot!) soapy water and
rinse in clean water to remove the wax-like mould release agent. Not cleaning resin parts in this
manner may result in poor paint and glue adhesion. It is unusual for modern polyurethane castings to
warp but this is possible if the kit is subject to exceptional heat. If any parts need straightening, place
them in hot water or run under a hot tap to soften them and then hold on a cold flat surface until they
cool. Test fit all parts before gluing. If any small air bubbles are evident on visible surfaces they may
be filled with a modelling putty such as Tamya or Milliput.
SOLDERING
Resin cored 60/40 solder is quite satisfactory, though some may find that a liquid flux such as Carr‟s
(#188 solder with green label flux) is more to their liking. Whatever solder and flux combination you
use, you MUST wash the parts in hot soapy water with a stiff brush at the end of each soldering
session. Dry the washed parts in front of a fan heater or using a hair drier. Not doing so is an
invitation for the steel wheel treads and axles to form rust corrosion very quickly. This can be very
difficult to clean up once it happens so we strongly advise that you avoid corrosion forming in the first
place.
TOOLS REQUIRED
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Large second cut files and needle files
24 hr epoxy (e.g. Araldite)
Soldering iron and solder and flux
Tweezers, small pliers
Drills and taps for 2 mm and 8 BA
threads
2
Superglue
Pin Vice and set of small modelling drills
Craft knife
Wet and Dry paper in fine grades
VARIATIONS OF CLASS 30T
This kit has been designed to enable one of three possible variations of Class 30T to be built. They are
illustrated below:
The short smokebox saturated steam loco is characterised by
 The placement of the headlight forward of the front of the smokebox
 The long upsweeping frame extension above the footplate (also used for the drumhead version)
 The wooden (thicker) headstock
 The presence of piston rod extension tubes on the front of the cylinders
 The steam blower piping being built into the handrail on the driver‟s side of the smoke box
The extended smokebox superheated steam loco is characterised by
 The placement of the headlight on top of the smokebox
 The sharply upsweeping frame extension above the footplate
 The steel (thinner) headstock
 The absence of piston rod extension tubes on the front of the cylinders
 The presence of a Westinghouse pump silencer on the fireman‟s side of the front of the footplate (not
shown in drawings of the driver‟s side above)
 The steam blower piping running separately from a valve underneath the hand rail just behind the
sand box and terminating in the smoke box by entry into the side of the smoke box about halfway up
its height and halfway along its length on the driver‟s side
The drumhead smokebox superheated steam loco is characterised by
 The placement of the headlight on top of the smokebox
 The long upsweeping frame extension above the footplate (also used for the short smokebox version)
 The absence of piston rod extension tubes on the front of the cylinders
 The steel (thinner) headstock
 The presence of a Westinghouse pump silencer on the fireman‟s side of the front of the footplate (not
shown in drawings of the driver‟s side above)
 The steam blower piping running separately from a valve underneath the hand rail just behind the
sand box and terminating in the smoke box by entry into the side of the smoke box about halfway up
its height and halfway along its length on the driver‟s side
3
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY
Take the pair of chassis sideframes and note that, as supplied they are identical and not „handed‟. Check
the edges and, in the unlikely event of there being any burrs, smooth the edges with a needle file. Do NOT
file the inner horizontal edges of the horn guides unless this is found necessary to fit the hornblocks later in
the assembly sequence.
Place the sideframes together and mark one as being the left hand side and the other as being the right hand
side – felt pen will do the trick. From now on, consider the sides that you have marked as being the outside
surfaces of the sideframes.
The basic assembly of the chassis is made up of the two sideframes separated by brass spacers. The
sideframes are screwed to the spacers with countersunk 2 mm screws. Using a larger drill bit, say 4 mm,
lightly countersink the holes in the outside surfaces of the sideframes. If you countersink only to a depth of
about half of the head of the countersunk screws then the excess screw head may be filed off to leave a
smooth surface to the sideframes without any screw slot. Do not finally assemble the sideframes to the
spacers yet.
Some parts are more easily affixed to the sideframes whilst they are still in the flat. These should be affixed
now. Note that part numbers (e.g. part #5) refer to the numbered parts in appendix 1, the lost wax brass
sprues identification chart.
Take the six castings of springs, part #5. These
are on two different sprues but all six spring
castings are identical. Remove from the sprues
leaving 2.0 mm of the centre stem in place to
butt up to the bottom edge of the sideframe.
Solder the spring castings where the spring
hangers overlap the inside surfaces of the
sideframes.
Take the pair of safety guards, part # 17 and fit to the outside face of
the sideframes at the very front. These parts are located by the cast
on pins in the lowermost holes in the sideframes. Use a straight edge
to ensure that the front edges are properly located. These parts are
handed and will fit correctly only on their respective sides. Solder in
place.
The two small headstock gusset brackets, parts number 6 are
handed. They are located by the cast on pin, one on each sideframe
in the lower of the two holes above the safety guards. They are
oriented with the flat surface to the top of the sideframe. Solder in
place ensuring that the front vertical surface is square to the front of
the sideframe and does not protrude beyond the front edge of the
sideframe.
The two large headstock gusset brackets, parts number 36 are
similarly fitted to the upper holes at the front of the sideframes.
Solder in place, again ensuring that the front face is square and does
not protrude beyond the front edge of the sideframe.
Check for any protrusion of the edges of the parts fitted in the last
three steps into the bogie wheel well and file off flush with the wheel
well to avoid interference with the bogie swing later.
4
Fit the brake shaft hangers (#37) to the holes at the bottom of the
sideframes to the rear of the last driving wheel position noting that
they are handed and are to be fitted to the outside face of the
sideframes.
Assemble the sideframes to the spacers ensuring that the
whole assembly sits square when the top edges of the chassis
are placed on your flat work surface. Note also that each
frame spacer has a 3 mm hole drilled through the centre line.
Ensure that this hole is perpendicular to the top of the chassis.
File off any excess screw head so that the outside faces of the
chassis are flat.
Prepare the front spacer for the later fitting of the front bogie
by filing a 6 mm wide flat area to a depth of about 0.5 mm that
allows part 22 to later be mounted with the surface of part 22
in a horizontal plane.
Prepare the brake cylinder (#19) by drilling out the hole for the actuating shaft 1.0 mm. Check that the
actuating shaft (#18) will slide into the brake cylinder. Cut a piece of 1.5 mm brass rod to a length of 34
mm.
Fit the brake cylinder (#19) to the sideframe on the driver‟s
side, locating by the cast on pin. Solder in place.
5
Pass the 34 mm length of 1.5 mm rod through the brake shaft
hangers at the same time fitting two brake cranks (#39) on the
rod between the sideframes. Leave them loose until later in
the assembly process.
Fit the actuating shaft to the brake cylinder and let it find its
own position when the crank is slipped on to the end of the 1.5
mm rod. Solder the crank to the rod with the end of the rod
just a little proud of the outside face of the crank.
Fit the handbrake crank (#20) to the rod on the fireman‟s side
and solder in place with the end of the rod just proud of the
face of the crank.
Note that there are two styles of footplate brackets – plain brackets (#41) and brackets with brake hanger
mountings (#40) and that, in both cases, they are handed. All are to be fitted with the angle iron side
facing to the front of the locomotive. Fit to the sideframes using the cast on pins and solder in place
ensuring they are square to the top of the sideframe and with the top surfaces being level with the top of
the sideframes. Be guided by the following photo for correct placement of these brackets. Whilst this
photo shows the rearward parts #41 fitted to the chassis experience has shown that they should
not be fitted at this time, but rather have their mounting pins removed and be added to the
underside of the footplate later to avoid conflicts fitting the chassis to the superstructure once
underbody piping has been fitted.
Take the triple valve (#21) and fit
piping from .5 mm brass wire as
shown in this illustration:
Form the wire as shown in
this photo:
6
Fit the triple valve just to the rear of
the brake cylinder locating with the
cast on pin
Assemble the six plunger pick-ups according to the Slaters instructions, then press fit
to the six 3.5 mm holes in the sideframes. Whilst not shown in the photo you may find
it easier to also assemble the solder tags and lock nuts to the pickups before pressing
them into place. The final locations of the plunger pick-ups differs a little from those
shown in the photos. They have been re-located at 9 o‟clock and 3 o‟clock positions
relative to the axle centres.
Fit the etched counterweights to
the driving wheels noting that the
larger weights are to be fitted to the
centre (flangeless) drivers. The
counterweights fit snugly down on
the top of the spokes. Ensure they
are located hard up against the
plastic rim, centred directly
opposite the crank pin holes. Glue
in place. The counterweights will
capture the heavy look of the
prototype if the void spaces behind
the counterweights are filled. Use
epoxy glue, resin, or epoxy putty
and when set, sand off the back faces to be level with the back of the wheels.
When the pilot model was built the counterweights were added near the end of construction.
Accordingly many of the photos in these instructions do not show them as being fitted. It will save
unnecessary disassembly later if the counterweights are fitted now, before the wheels are fitted to
the chassis.
Prepare the hornblocks ( 6 of part #35). The axle holes are required to be 3/16” bore to accept the driving
wheel axles. They are cast close to finished size but may require some opening up either by reaming or
running a 3/16” drill bit through them. Do NOT cut off the hornblock sprues flush. Leave 1.5 mm of the
sprue on each hornblock to form a spring retaining pin. Note that there are left hand and right hand
hornblocks as shown in the illustration below:
Fit the hornblocks to
the sideframes using
the supplied coil
springs to provide
equalisation.
Fit the driving wheels, using the supplied 3/16” plastic washers between each
wheel hub and its hornblock. The crank pin on the fireman‟s side should lead
the crank pin on the driver‟s side by 90 deg. As part of this process assemble
the gearbox according to the Branchline instructions and fit the axle gear and
gearbox noting the orientation of the gearbox with the motor mount forward of
the axle. Check carefully the clearance between the rear driver flanges and the
brake hanger mounting on the footplate brackets. File a little off the brake
hanger mounting if necessary to provide clearance.
7
The side rods are supplied drilled to 3 mm which is the bare minimum size required for the crank pins.
The rods will be fitted in two stages to enable a smooth running mechanism to be built with minimum fuss.
Fit the front half side rods (#30 and #32) to the front and centre drivers using short crank pins and thin
washers (0.5 mm) between the rods and the wheel faces. Turn the wheels to the 3 o‟clock position and
move the right hand wheel as shown in the sketch below. It should move freely. If it is tight look at how
the right hand crankpin fits into the side rod
If the crank pin looks like “A” then elongate the hole in the side rod by filing a small amount from “X” with a
round needle file.
If the crank pin looks like “B” then file a small amount from “Y”. Always aim to open out the holes closer to
the front because the mechanism is driven from the rear axle.
In all this process be wary of other components that may cause a bind, such as the top of the rods touching the
underside of footplate brackets and lightly file the underside of brackets to eliminate interference.
Once these four wheels are working smoothly, add the rear side rods by pinning with the pins provided
and soldering to the rear surface of the clevis (fork) in the side rods. Take care not to allow solder to be
introduced into the hinge formed by the clevis and the tongue on the companion side rod. Run through the
same testing procedure as was used for the first four wheels. This time, alter only the rearmost holes.
Once you are satisfied that the wheels are turning without any binding remove the rods and put them aside
for re-fitting once other detail has been fitted.
Take the sprue of front bogie side frames (#25 and #26) and
cut from the sprue, noting that the front ends are to be cut
straight across the join mark that is visible between the pattern
and the sprue, leaving a short „snout‟ which is prototypical.
Clean up any residue of sprue that is left on the front faces of
the castings.
The axle holes are cast close to finished size but require
reaming to 3.2 mm (1/8”). You may find it easier to run a 1/8”
drill bit through the holes. Check that the axles are free to
rotate. Take the equalising pins (#23) and check that they are
free to rotate in the 1.5 mm holes in the bottom centre of the
bogie castings. Ream if necessary.
8
Take the bogie stretcher (#24) and try fit the brass 5 mm x 3 mm tube bush in the slot in the
stretcher. If necessary file the slot gently with a round needle file to achieve an easy fit for the
bush to slide from side to aside but avoiding any unnecessary slop.
Fit the sideframes to the stretcher noting that the trunnions on
the stretcher go to the bottom of the bogie (shown upside down
in the photo) with the bogie mounting slot towards the rear of
the bogie. Solder the equalising pins only to the inside faces of
the trunnions so that the sideframes remain free to rock on
stretcher thereby providing equalisation.
Fit the wheels to the bogie, using a 1/8” washer between each wheel hub and its axle box. Check that the
bogie rolls freely.
Take the bogie mount (#22) and temporarily affix to the front main frame spacer
using a 2 mm screw and nut. This is smaller than the 3 mm bore of the frame
spacer hole and will allow for some adjustment. Do not solder yet.
Attach the bogie to the bogie mount
using the 5 mm x 3 mm brass tube bush
and the 10 mm x 2 mm screw and
washer so that the bogie is free to pivot
on the brass bush.
Place the chassis upright on a flat surface and check for clearance of the bogie wheels with the
sideframes by moving the bogie from side to side. Aim for equal clearance either end of the section of
frame that descends between the bogie wheels. This longitudinal position of the bogie may be adjusted by
moving the bogie mount that has been temporarily screwed to the frame spacer. Once it appears that the
bogie is in the correct position try the chassis on a piece of track with a minimum radius of 1.375 m (54”) to
confirm that the swing of the bogie when guided by the track maintains clearance with the frames. Now
solder the bogie mount to the front main frame spacer taking care NOT to solder the temporary screw in
place. Remove the temporary screw. The remaining hole right through the front main frame spacer will
later be used to affix the locomotive body to the chassis.
Take the cylinder mounting plates (#12 and #13) and file flat where the
sprue has been attached to the under surfaces that need to lie flat
against the sideframes. Note that these parts are handed and they are
correctly placed when the angled edge that protrudes above the top
edge of each plate is towards the front of the locomotive.
Temporarily screw the plates to the frames using 1.6 mm (10 BA)
screws with nuts to the inside of the frames. DO NOT solder in place
yet.
Clean up the cylinder castings (#1 and #2) and offer them up to the
mounting plates so that the shallow horizontal brace on the top of the
cylinder casting is to the front of the locomotive on both sides.
The mounting plates are correctly positioned when the top edge of the horizontal braces at the front and
rear of the cylinders is 1.5 mm proud of the top edge of the main frames. Slacken the mounting screws
and adjust as necessary to achieve this placement (the holes in the plates are slightly elongated to permit
this) and re-tighten the mounting screws. Solder the heads of the screws to the mounting plates. The
cylinder assemblies are intended to be able to be removed from the frames so DO NOT solder the nuts to
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the screws.
Take the cylinder caps (# 27 and #28) and fit them to the ends of the cylinder
castings noting that the rear caps (the ones with a hole in it, #27) go to the ends
of the cylinders that have the deeper horizontal brace on top. When fitting the
front caps (#28) note that there is a pattern of four bolt heads on the face of each
cap. These are to be placed so that pairs of bolt heads form horizontal and
vertical lines. That positioning is partly visible in this photo. It is suggested that
both caps be held in place with a heat resistant clamp and soldered with a flame
on the inside of the cylinder casting where the caps are located by bosses
through holes in the ends of the cylinder casting. That will avoid unnecessary
clean up of solder on the visible ends of the cylinder castings.
If you are modelling a saturated steam loco drill out the front cylinder caps 2.0 mm
and fit the piston rod extension tubes (#116). The accompanying photo was
taken later in the assembly process and shows other parts not yet expected to be
fitted.
Take the slide bars (#14) and crossheads (#15) and clean up the rubbing
surfaces so that the crossheads slide in the slide bars without any
interference. As part of this process drill out the cylinder gland 1.8 mm to
receive the piston rod. Cut the piston rod to be a length of 21.5 mm from
the crosshead
Fit slide bars to both cylinders taking care to keep them in a plane parallel to the main frames and at the
same longitudinal angle to the frames as the cylinder castings. Solder in place.
Locate the three drill marks on the bottom of each cylinder and drill
them 1.0 mm to accept the cylinder cocks. Take the cylinder cock
castings (#16) and fit to the cylinders noting that the short exhaust
pipes face the front of the locomotive. Solder in place.
With the cylinder mounting plates still screwed to the main frames to avoid the screws moving if solder
melts in the following process, fit the cylinder assemblies to the mounting plates soldering the top and
bottom edges. Quick licks with a very hot iron (at least 80W) will enable this process to be carried out
without affecting previously soldered parts. You may prefer to use a lower melting point solder for this
step.
10
Fit the motion brackets (#3 and #4) to the slide bars, locating the top
edge using the pin cast into each motion bracket. The motion brackets
slope towards the front of the locomotive at their bottom ends and are
correctly placed when the top edges of the near triangular braces at the
top end of the brackets are horizontal. The acid test is to offer up the
resin cast footplate and see that those triangular braces just butt up to
the front edges of the footplate.
Tack solder the slide bars to the motion bracket using only the top
surface of the top bar and the under surface of the bottom bar thereby
avoiding getting any solder on the sliding surfaces. Refit the
crossheads and check that they have adequate clearance from the
motion brackets to avoid any interference in their operation. DO NOT
solder the top locating pin in to the frames. This is a temporary locating
pin and will later be removed.
Form cylinder cock actuating bars from 0.8 mm x 0.25 mm
brass strip and solder between the ends of the cylinder cock
castings and the small crank on the bottom of the motion
bracket. Trim the excess length from the cylinder cock casting
Take the connecting rods (#33 and #34) and drill the little ends 1.0 mm as
indicated by the cast in drill marks. Fit to the crosshead with the connecting
rod fitting in the recess behind the crosshead and the connecting rod pin
(#15a) passing through the crosshead and the connecting rod little end. The
connecting rod is correctly oriented when the lubricating cup on the middle of
the big end is on the upper edge of the connecting rod (i.e. facing up to the
footplate). Solder the pin to the rear face of the connecting rod taking care
not to let solder into the face between the connecting rod and the crosshead.
The connecting rod is required to hinge freely on the crosshead. Repeat for
the other crosshead and connecting rod.
Refit the side rods to the chassis using the short crankpins for the front and rear drivers and using thin
(0.5 mm) washers between the wheel face and the rods. Use the long crankpins on the centre drivers
and place a thick (1.0 mm ) washer between the wheel face and the main rod, and a thin (0.5 mm) washer
between the main rod and the connecting rod. Test for any binds by pushing the chassis on a flat
surface.
If any binds are present they will be due to factors other than the crank pin holes because they have
previously been adjusted to achieve a smooth running mechanism. Check as follows:
 If there is a bind when the drivers on either side of the chassis are at or near their furtherest
forward position, the end of the piston rod may be hitting the inside face of the cylinder – file a
little off the end of the piston rod until the interference is removed.
 If there is a bind when the connecting rods are close to top dead centre or bottom dead centre
check for any fouling of the connecting rods with the end of the slidebars and file the chamfers on
the slidebars deeper to eliminate the interference.
 If there is binding when the drivers are close to top dead centre check for any fouling with the
footplate brackets and file a little off the bottom edges of the brackets to eliminate the interference.
 A potential source of tight spots are the sprung power pickups. If there is any roughness in the fit
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of the tyres to the plastic centres of the driving wheels the pickups may be snagged. Any
roughness – most likely in the plastic centres - may be removed by paring with a craft knife and
finished off with emery paper. Some modellers prefer to lightly blunt the point of the pickup
plungers to prevent their catching too easily on any unevenness of the backs of the tyres.
Take the six brake hangers and note that they are handed. There is
a small offset on the bottom end of each hanger. In the case of the
front hanger (#8) and the rear hanger (#9) the offset faces the front of
the locomotive. Conversely, the offset on the middle hanger (#7)
faces the rear of the loco.
Take the six resin brake shoes and run a jeweller‟s broach through the
holes to enable 0.5 mm wire to be pushed through to form mounting pins.
Similarly run the broach through the holes in the hangers . Make pins
from lengths of 0.5 mm brass wire and fit brake shoes to the hangers.
BEFORE gluing the pins in place test fit each brake hanger/shoe
assembly to the chassis to see that each will hang without interference
with the wheel tread. With the space between drivers number two and
three being occupied with two hangers, space is tight. To achieve a good
visual alignment of the shoes with the wheels it may be necessary to
deepen the slot in the rearward brake shoes. Simply draw a backsaw
blade lightly through the slot once or twice to deepen it.
Once you are satisfied with the set of the brake shoes glue the pins in place with a touch of superglue on
the outside faces of the brake shoes. Avoid getting glue on to the brass hangers. The intention is that the
shoes will have a small amount of rocking movement in order to find a natural position relative to the wheel
treads.
Fit the centre driver hangers/shoes to the chassis at the same time fitting
the spreader (# 11) noting the orientation as shown in the photo. With
the hangers/shoes hanging naturally and with the minimum of clearance
between the brake shoes and wheel treads, solder the brake hangers in
to place at the top. They are located by the pins cast into them and may
be soldered on the inside of the chassis, the excess pain then being
snipped off.
DO NOT yet solder the spreader to the hangers – it will be easier to fit to
the rear wheel brake assembly if left loose for the moment.
Fit the rear driver hangers/shoes by pinning to the mounting on the footplate
brackets. Make pins from short lengths of 1.0 mm brass rod. At the same
time fit the rearward brake spreader, referring to the photo for correct
orientation. Note that this spreader is to slide into the clevis formed by the
brake linkage protruding back from the middle driver spreader. It may be
helpful to open up the clevis to fit the rear spreader and clamp it tight again
once the two spreaders are joined. Checking that the brake shoes have
minimal but adequate clearance with the wheel tread, solder the spreaders to
the hangers for this and the adjacent brake assembly. Solder the pins
mounting the tops of the rear hangers and snip off any excess length.
12
With the cylinder assemblies removed from the chassis cut away the
temporary locating pins from the motion brackets. The hole that was
used for this temporary location is to be used for the front brake hanger
and the motion bracket requires sufficient material cut away to clear the
brake hanger mounting.
Fit the front brake hangers/shoes mounting with the pin cast into the top of each
hanger through holes in the chassis. Solder from the inside of the chassis after
having lined up the brake shoes with minimal but adequate clearance. Cut a piece
of 1.0 mm brass rod to be threaded through the bottom of the front hangers as the
spreader. Don‟t solder it in place yet.
Form the brake pulling bars (2) from 2.0 x 0.5 mm brass strip and drill 1.0 mm close to one end to be
threaded on to the front brake spreader and run back to the rear spreader soldering to the inside of the
riveted forward facing protrusion on each side. There is a (prototypical) joggle in the puller bars just
forward of the rear soldered joins to allow the puller bars to run just outboard of the leaf springs. Fit 0.6
mm brass wire pullers from the rear brake spreader to the brake lever cranks which have so far been left
loose on their shaft. Bend as necessary to clear the leaf spring castings. Once these pullers are fitted,
solder the brake cranks in place on their shaft.
“threaded on the front brake
“joggle in the puller bars just
“Fit 0.6 mm brass wire pullers from
spreader”
forward of the rear soldered joins” the rear brake spreader to the brake
lever cranks”
There are four sand pipes to be formed and fitted; one in front of each of the front drivers and one behind
each of the rear drivers. Form the pipes from 1.0 mm soft brass wire and fit shaped ends from 4.5 mm
lengths of 1.0 mm inside diameter brass tube.
The front pipes need to be shaped outwards a little to clear the brake hanger and then bend inwards and
up the outside of the frames being soldered to the frames just ahead of the motion bracket.
The rear pipe on the driver‟s side follows the shape of the wheel tread up to about the three o‟clock
position where it then goes straight up, bending sharply towards the edge of the footplate about 3mm
from the top of the main frame and then bending up again 12.0 mm out from the frame.
13
On the fireman‟s side, the rear pipe slopes towards the rear at about 45 deg turning upwards in front of the
handbrake fulcrum lever and bending out and up again to the footplate in like fashion to the driver‟s side.
Both rear pipes are attached to the main frames near the bottom edges of the frames using the brackets
(#38) which are threaded on to the pipes and shaped to hold the pipes in position. Take care not to allow
the pipes to touch the tread or flange of their adjacent driving wheel – to do so may create a short circuit.
Front sand pipe
Driver‟s side rear sand pipe
Fireman‟s side rear sand pipe
The motor requires a restraint to prevent starting torque from banging
the motor against the loco superstructure fore and aft on start up.
This restraint is provided by an etched plate attached to the folded up
gear box and captured between the rear frame spacer and the
underside of the footplate.
Fit the motor to the gearbox, at the same time fitting the worm gear in accordance with the instructions
supplied with the gearbox kit. Be sure to use the short 2.0 mm screws supplied with the motor. Using any
longer screws may result in the tightened screws fouling the armature inside the motor and damaging the
motor windings beyond repair.
Using soft stranded hook-up wire solder short lengths of wire between the current pick up solder tags
between first and second driving wheels and between second and third driving wheels on the driver‟s side
of the loco and then wire from the rear driving wheel to the (+) motor solder tag. Similarly wire the
fireman‟s side to the (-) motor solder tag. The polarity of the motor solder tags is moulded into the plastic
end of the motor. Remove any excess length of motor shaft at the top of the motor to prevent interference
with the loco superstructure. This is most easily done with a motor tool cut off disc used gently and
gradually so as not to overheat the motor shaft and risk distortion of the plastic motor end.
The chassis is now ready to test run. If care has been taken to ensure smooth running at the various
stages of construction (i.e. the fitting of the side rods, the fitting of connecting rod and slidebars, the fitting
of current pickups) then the chassis should run freely and smoothly. If there is any suggestion of binding
observe carefully for any touching of moving parts that may have resulted from handling during
construction and correct them. Running on track may be a little erratic at this stage due to lack of
adhesive weight to provide a good wheel to track electrical contact. That weight will ultimately be provided
by a ballasted superstructure. In the meantime placing some weights above the area of the cylinders and
above the area of the cab may simulate a completed loco for testing purposes.
14
SLIDEBAR COVERS OPTION
Many 30T class locos were fitted with slide bar covers to avoid excessive wear in dusty conditions. That
option is provided in this kit.
Cover as fitted to a preserved loco
The cast resin covers are intended to be a light
interference fit on the upper and lower surfaces of
the slide bars. To accommodate some small
variation in component sizes a small ridge has
been cast into the inside face of the covers. File
these down until a light interference fit is achieved.
Also pare away small rebates on the lower ridges
as shown in the photo to prevent interference from
a small bolt head cast into the bottom of the slide
bar near the cylinder end.
Form six handles for the slide bar covers as follows:
Do not permanently attach the covers to the slide bars until after painting the loco. Even then use just a smear of
latex or PVA glue to tack the covers in place so they may be easily removed for maintenance purposes.
15
LOCOMOTIVE SUPERSTRUCTURE
These instructions refer primarily to a short smoke box saturated steam loco. Where the instructions require
modification for the other two versions there are supplementary photos and instructions.
Take the etched sheet front footplate, with etched rivet head detail uppermost
(not shown in this photo) and glue to the tongue protruding from the rear surface
of the headstock with the etched sheet centred with even overhang of the
headstock at each end. Super glue gel works well in this application. The
production etched sheet does NOT have the four slots shown in the photo but
does have a mounting hole and a ring of holes to assist later gluing of the
smokebox saddle.
Select the headstock appropriate to your choice of model – the wooden (thicker)
headstock for the saturated steam loco (shown in photo) or the steel (thinner)
headstock for the extended smokebox or drumhead smokebox superheated
steam models.
Take the footplate resin casting and try fit it to the chassis and check for any interference of the mechanism
when it is turned over. Typically the resin casting may need a little material pared away with a sharp craft
knife to provide clearance for the side rod lubricator cups and the connecting rod lubricator cups on the
centre drivers when they approach top dead centre. Typical paring is shown in the photo below:
Fit the front footplate etched sheet to the main casting of the
footplate, butting up to the edge of the riveted strip just ahead of
the „ovalish‟ hole and with the rearward tongues of the etched
sheet hard up to the front edges of the footplate just ahead of the
front splashers and resting on a ridge on either side of the
footplate casting.
Clamp in place whilst the glue sets. Due to there being some
flex in the resin footplate casting, you may choose to clamp long
strips of metal (e.g. steel rules) from the top surfaces of the resin
footplate through to the top surface of etched sheet to assist the
etched sheet to form a flat plane with the rest of the footplate.
Clean off any glue „ooze‟ from the ring of holes to enable the
smokebox saddle to sit flat on the etched sheet.
Take the castings for the smoke box, boiler and firebox and identify the top centre line. On the smoke box it
is marked by a very light scribed mark on the top surface at each end. Similarly there are light scribed marks
either end of the boiler and one at the front of the firebox. Using these markers draw fine pencil lines to make
the top dead centre easier to see in later stages of construction. Make some cross checks at this stage. For
example the line on the boiler should pass through the „pop‟ mark in the middle which indicates the centre of
16
the steam dome position. On the firebox the line should pass through the two centred „pop‟ marks towards
the rear. The line does not pass through the position of a rivet near the centre of the front edge but rather
passes about 1.5 mm to the lower side as seen in the photo below. Check that the smoke box is correctly
marked by sighting with the smoke box sitting on a flat surface.
When satisfied with the alignment of these three castings, glue them together to form a single structure and
set aside whilst the glue hardens.
Fit the smoke box/boiler/firebox assembly to the footplate noting, as illustrated below, that the rear edge of
the smoke box base should be hard up to the transverse riveted strip on the footplate; the firebox „tongue‟
protrudes through the footplate and the rear edge of the firebox should be in line with the rear edge of the
rearmost splasher where it will butt up to the spectacle plate later. Be sure that the rebated bottom edge of
the firebox fits behind the frame extensions cast into the footplate so that the bottom edge of the firebox sits
right down on the footplate surface. Try fit the chassis and mark the position of the front mounting screw
through the front frame spacer and drill 3.0 mm through the footplate and the smokebox saddle. Glue the
smokebox/boiler/firebox assembly to the footplate using a screw and nut through the footplate and smokebox
saddle to ensure correct placement whilst the glue cures.
Select the frame extensions suitable for your chosen model and remove the two tongues on the bottom edge
of each so that they may glue on the surface of the etched footplate sheet. (Later versions of the resin cast
frame extensions do not have the tongues). Check the fit against the vertical edges of the smoke box saddle
and, if necessary, lightly scrape the vertical surfaces of the saddle to give a true vertical surface to accept
the frame extensions. Glue in place, gluing the bottom edges to the footplate and the backs to the smoke
box saddle. There is an outward joggle in the rear of the frame extension which allows each to be glued to
the rear edge of their respective splasher as shown below. Glue the fairings in place at the junction of the
frame extensions and footplate. Be guided by the drawings on page 3 for the correct placement of the
fairings for each of the three smoke box types. Glue the cast urethane riveted strip immediately in front of the
smoke box to form a transverse angle iron section the full width of the smoke box base.
17
Try fit the spectacle plate and, if necessary lightly sand the back
edges of the firebox and splashers to ensure that the spectacle
plate will fit both vertically true and horizontally true across the
footplate. Use a modellers square to ensure accurate setting up.
Glue the spectacle plate in place
Make a template from stout card according to the measurements
given in the photo at right.
Glue the funnel in place, referring to the drawings on page 3 for
the appropriate placement depending on the type of smoke box.
Before the glue hardens use the template to ensure that the funnel
is located straight and symmetrically.
Solder up the sand box sub assemblies
Solder up the Westinghouse pump sub assembly
18
Fit the clack valves (#110) and feed-water pipes and associated unions (#111) and retaining brackets/clips
(#85 and #113). On superheated locos the feed-water pipes were commonly lagged for the length of
the pipe from part #110 to the first part #111. Lagging may be represented by winding fine fuse wire
tightly around the feed-water pipe.
Fit the Westinghouse pump assembly to the
smokebox.
Note that the exhaust pipe (top right hand pipe from
pump) passes through the smokebox side wall on
the saturated steam loco only. See alternate
external routing of the exhaust pipe through the
silencer on the superheated steam loco (both types)
Note that the compressed air line (bottom right hand
pipe from pump) doubles back behind the lower part
of the pump and runs straight back to the spectacle
plate behind the feed-water pipe.
The following photos show the placement of the Westinghouse pump exhaust silencer on the two
superheated steam versions; the drumhead smoke box and the extended smoke box.
Drumhead version: When these photos were taken there was not a spare footplate etch available. That is
why this assembly is shown as being mounted on a piece of plastic sheet. You, of course, will be mounting
it on the etched footplate sheet. The correct placement of the silencer is achieved by having the legs of parts
#51 hard up against the inside face of the frame extension. The silencer should be mounted far enough
forward that the end cap of the silencer is just proud of the front face of the smoke box. Form the two pipes
from 0.8 mm soft wire. Note that the parts #51 are located between the two pipe unions on part #49.
19
Extended Version: Once again the placement of the silencer is correct when the face of the end cap is just
proud of the front face of the smoke box. On this version the silencer is outboard of frame extension and is
located with the body of the silencer hard up to the frame extension which means that the „inner‟ legs of parts
#51 need to be trimmed off to allow this placement. Note that on this version the parts #51 are placed just in
front of each of the two pipe unions on part #49. This differs from the Drumhead version. Fit piping made
from 0.8 mm soft wire, being guided by the photos.
Fit the various loco front fittings as illustrated.
Not all locos were fitted with the step (#112) shown
on the extreme left end of the headstock. Be guided
by photos of the particular loco you are modelling.
It is suggested that the buffer heads be polished by
mounting them in motor tool before they are
mounted to the buffer bodies and polishing them with
wet and dry or emery paper.
Access to the interior of the smoke box and boiler
will be required later in the assembly process,
therefore do not glue the smoke box door in place
yet.
Fit the lubricator lines formed from 0.3mm wire – 4 for the saturated steam loco, 5 for the superheated steam
versions, retain them with clips (#94) and terminate them, 2 in fitting #99, and the remainder taken over the
top edge of the frame extension. Small unions may be formed from 1.0mm brass tube filed to a hexagonal
20
shape and threaded on to the lubricator lines between the rearmost retaining clip and the spectacle plate.
Take the ends of the lubricator lines through the spectacle plate leaving about 50 mm to later be formed to
final size and shape when the backhead details are fitted.
Form the reversing bar from 2.5 x 0.5 mm brass strip and fit in place using the support bracket #56. Drill a
hole in the forward end to fit the actuating lever on part #97.
Fit the sand box assemblies, joggling the bottom sand pipe to pass through the hole in the etched footplate
sheet. Fit the small cylinder #66 to the front of the spectacle plate.
Fit the 1.0 x 0.25 mm brass strip near the bottom of the firebox with the strip running from the spectacle plate
to the rear of the centre splasher. Fit the transverse reversing mechanism (#97) and engage the pin on the
actuating lever with the hole in the end of the reversing bar formed above.
21
Lubricator lines for extended fire box superheated
steam version
Lubricator lines for drumhead fire box superheated
steam version
Fit the firebox top fittings as shown below and the injector steam pipes noting the way the pipe on the driver‟s
side is diverted around the edge of the inspection panel on the top edge of the firebox. On superheated
locos these steam pipes were commonly lagged for the whole length of the pipe from part #60 down
to the footplate. Lagging may be represented by winding fine fuse wire tightly around the steam
pipes.
Fit the steps to the underside of the footplate and the
1.0 mm steam pipes to the injectors and 1.0 mm feed
water pipes from the injectors and terminate all with
union castings (#111) on the underside of the
footplate. Form water feed pipes that connect to the
tender from 1.0 mm wire, fit them to the injectors and
fit unions (#111) to the ends and form brackets from
1.0 x .25 brass strip glued to the underside of the
drawbar block.
22
Fit 0.5mm conduit wire to the centre rear of the headlight and attach to a union (#115) and pass a length of
0.5 mm wire through the union leaving about 50 mm either side. Fit the side lights (#105) noting that they
are „handed‟. Fit the headlight using whichever bracket is appropriate for the version of loco you are
modelling. On the fireman‟s side connect the conduit from the headlight to to side light. Similarly fit the
conduit from headlight to sidelight on the driver‟s side but at the same time thread on a further union (#115).
This will later become the junction of a conduit from the cab.
The headlights of the superheated versions (both
extended and drumhead smoke box types) are
mounted on top of the smoke box as indicated in the
prototype photo at right. Note also the external
Westinghouse pump exhaust pipe behind the funnel.
This applies to both superheated types. The
weather protection afforded by the upturned tin can
is not mandatory!
Affix backhead fittings as detailed below
Fit the drop plate to the cab floor as detailed below
23
Assemble the cab sides as shown in the photo, right. Handrail bracket (#64) is
shaped to fit into a small rebate on the back of the cab side casting. These
parts are handed and are fitted correctly when only a short rectangular section is
visible from the outside of the cab. Position parts #65 to allow the handrails to
be truly vertical.
Assemble the crew seats/lockers to the inside faces of the cab sides taking care
to fit the rear mitred joints neatly and ensuring the front edges of the cab sides fit
neatly to the edges of the spectacle plate. If the front edge of the seats/lockers
interferes with this fit, file or sand the front edges of the seats/lockers until a neat
fit is achieved.
Set aside for later building of the cab.
Affix the backhead to the inside face of the spectacle plate, centering the
assembly.
Terminate the lubricator lines behind the lubricator
24
Fit the steam pipe to the generator (0.5 mm soft
wire) and the conduit from the generator (0.7 mm
wire
Fit nuts for the body mounting screws – one rearward of the backhead and one in the smoke box.
Identify the supplied nuts that match the body mounting screws – a long screw typically 3mm diameter and a
shorter one that may be 2.5 mm or 6BA. Solder the nuts on to scrap strips of brass (to provide an adequate
glue surface for the nuts) that have been pre-drilled to give clearance for the screws then offer up the loco
body to the chassis with the mounting screws passing through the front and rear chassis spacers and tighten
up the screws on their respective nuts, pulling the strip attached to the nut in the smokebox into shape to
match the curvature of the inside of the smoke box. Ease off the screws, apply some epoxy cement to the
strips attached to the nuts and re-tighten until the cement has hardened.
Affix The cab sides to the footplate and spectacle plate taking care to ensure a square assembly.
Offer up the cab floor and file the rear corners of the cab floor as necessary to enable the floor to fit up snug
to the backhead. Add styrene filler strips at the side of the floor assembly to fill any gap.
25
Fit the remaining cab fittings as noted in the photos below
Fit the cab roof after observing the instructions on the
photo below
Fit the cab rear fascia (may be supplied as an etched
brass part
26
You have some options for the finishing of the cab roof. In all cases, three riveted strips should be fitted
transversely as shown in the photos below. They have not been cast integrally into the cab roof in order to
make it easier for you to scribe the planking on the cab roof should you wish to have it showing. The options
for finishing are:
1. Leave the surface smooth and just add the three strips for a „new condition‟ roof.
2. Scribe the planking as shown in the photos below then add the three strips – a more worn roof with
planking showing through the malthoid covering.
3. Cover the scribed planking with tissue paper flooded with weak PVA glue to simulate more subtle
wear. Again fit the three strips.
4. In any of the above cases add the ventilation hatch cover on the fireman‟s side of the cab if the loco
you are modelling was fitted with a hatch in the period you are modelling. We have not found
conclusive data showing which locos were hatch fitted, nor whether they were fitted from new. Be
guided by photos of the loco you are modelling.
27
Study the following photos and identify the castings by number that make up the handrail fittings. Many look
similar to others, but there are subtle differences that affect the way they fit in relation to the
firebox/boiler/smoke box surfaces and the handrails. It is strongly suggested that you remove the handrail
fittings from their sprue only as you require them to avoid any confusion. If you choose to clean up castings
before you are ready to fit them, please ensure that you can continue to identify them by number by taping
them to a sheet of paper on which you have written the part numbers.
Do not solder or glue the handrails to the fittings until you have set up the handrail for a complete side so that
you may ensure that the several sections of handrail line up straight before finally fixing them. For example,
the exact angle of the „step up‟ and „step down‟ brackets #70 has a bearing on the placement of the section
of handrail that is stepped down, and also on the end sections that are stepped up.
Fit the 0.5 mm conduit from cab to junction box just above the side light on the driver‟s side, clipping the
conduit into the brackets that extend up from parts #76, 77, 78
28
The handrail
arrangements are
different on the
superheated steam
versions, having a
pair of „step down –
step up‟ fittings
(#70) placed as
shown in the photo
at right. Observe
the correct order of
parts #76, 78, 77
and 75. They are
similar to one
another but not
interchangeable.
There is a forked clevis to be formed on the reversing
bar just ahead of its passing through the spectacle
plate. Form from scrap 2.5 x 0.5 mm brass strip and
fit a short section of 1.5 mm rod to simulate the end of
the reversing screw mechanism showing through from
the cab. See also prototype photos below.
29
Before assembling the body to the chassis for a test run take time to carefully check for any parts that
may interfere with the free rotation of the wheels or the motor. Measure the height of the motor shaft above
the top of the chassis and compare that measurement with the depth of the firebox. If the depth is
inadequate to accommodate the protruding shaft length, shorten the shaft using a cut- off disk in a motor
tool. There is room for a flywheel 18 mm diameter and 8 mm deep. If you choose to fit a flywheel be sure
that all protruding „tails‟ from the mounting of parts like the whistle and safety valve are trimmed back flush
with the inside surface of the firebox. Again, a cut-off disk with take care of this quickly.
Check the insides of the splashers and grind off any protruding „tails‟ of the pipe retainer clips that were fitted
to the tops of the splashers.
Test run the mechanism with the body sitting in place and identify any remaining interference and clear it.
Now fit the body mounting screws and tighten snugly but not creating any undue strain and test run again.
PAINTING AND FINISHING
Remove the motor and carefully wash the chassis and body in warm soapy water and allow to dry thoroughly.
Paint both with a self etch primer to ensure best possible paint adhesion of brass components and paint with
the appropriate colour – Engine Black for ex works condition, Weathered Black or Grimy Black for in-service
condition.
Numbering decals are available from Century Models. These adhere best to a gloss surface.
Finish with a protective coat of clear lacquer with a lustre of your choosing.
30
Appendix 1
Brass Casting Sprue and Parts Identification Chart
1
2
3
4
5
Do not rely on this drawing to be a scale drawing. It is intended as an aid to show where numbered parts relate to major
components which generally are marked or drilled to assist in proper placement.
Appendix 2-1
Do not rely on this drawing to be a scale drawing. It is intended as an aid to show where numbered parts relate to major
components which generally are marked or drilled to assist in proper placement.
Appendix 2-2
Do not rely on this drawing to be a scale drawing. It is intended as an aid to show where numbered parts relate to major
components which generally are marked or drilled to assist in proper placement.
Appendix 2-3
Do not rely on this drawing to be a scale drawing. It is intended as an aid to show where numbered parts relate to major
components which generally are marked or drilled to assist in proper placement.
Appendix 2-4